Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 11 routes total

Boulder - 11 routes - avg. grade V3 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5 V6+

Fly Rock, Moa Point, Breaker Bay.

Showing all routes 10 routes total Time 10 min

Boulder - 10 routes - avg. grade V3 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5 V6+

While it doesn't look like much from the carpark, Fly Rock does offer some surprisingly good challenges.

 

Access: Park at the end of Owhiro Bay Parade, and walk to the far end of the first bay to the west.

1
Unnamed
Grade V0
Good edges up the grey wall.
2
Low Fly
Grade V6
This bum scraper starts on low edges on the right side of the boulder. Traverse left on slopey holds to the low jugs on the arete (cruxy if you’re tall). Slap up and left to the sloping ledge and traverse the east face on good holds. Now drop down around the corner and finish by stepping left onto the large ramp.
3
High Fly
Grade V4
Start on chest-height edges and traverse left to the arete. Slap around to the sloping ledge, pull up and left to the big pocket and finish straight up.
4
Unnamed
Grade VM
Swing up the flake.
5
Unnamed
Grade V1
A spicy eliminate climbs the groove just left of the big flake, to a slippery mantle. Avoid the flake and the arete.
6
Flying Arete
Grade V3
Sit start and climb the cracking arete.
7
Super Fly
Grade V7
A hard one-and-a-half-move wonder. Start low in the middle of the overhanging prow. Pull on using two poor pinches and slap for the slopey ledge. Finish straight up avoiding either arete.
8
Blow Fly
Grade V3
Sit start under the left arete, to reach good holds, then traverse right along the sloping ledge and finish up Flying Arete. A V2 variant climbs directly up the left arete.
9
Sand Fly
Grade V5
An eliminate: start up Blow Fly but take the small sharp crimp left of the arete with your left hand, cross up to a small gaston, then crank all the way to the white jug. Holds on the arete and the ramp down low are out – climb it that way at around V1.
10
Fly-Buys
Grade V3
Traverse left to right, reversing the last part of Low Fly and the first part of High Fly. Crux is turning on to the final face.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 30 min 5 m

The low rock near the track at Red Rocks.

Access: Walk along the coastal track from the Owhiro Bay Quarry car park.

1
Lipstick
Grade V3
A low traverse of the lip of the boulder, from left to right.