Showing all routes 105 routes total
granite. cragging and multi-pitch
Access: Off Highway 99, approximately 35km south of Manapouri or 45km north of Tuatapere turn west onto Lake Monowai Road. Continue past the Lake Monowai turnoff and follow power lines to Borland Lodge. Pass the kiddies roadside abseiling spot. First real cliffs are approximately 16km from the SH99 or 9km from Borland Lodge heading towards Borland Saddle.
Before the road leaves the valley and begins climbing to the Borland Saddle there are a cluster of crags which can be seen and accessed from the road. From east to west, the crags are Split Persona Wall, The Watchtower, unnamed, and The Den.
An area where the climbs are not as they appear to be... Hidden and set back, just 20m from road this crag is so close you could throw a rock at a climber from your car. It's located just east of The Watchtower or 5 kms past the pull out to the Upper Bluffs. Parking is near the river immediately after the cuttings in the road. Look for a white wall in the trees to the south. The track is up a steep bank on the left hand side of the cutting. Schizoid is a classic test-piece.
The obvious tower on the left as seen from the road.
Access: Park up when the road side crags come into view. Walk up the bank and down to the left most pylon. Here a cairn marks the start of a flagged track up through beech forest to the base of the Watch Tower.
The Den is a series of over hangs connected by access ledges.
Access: Once you have sight of the crag, follow the road a further 200m until the next set of pylons can be reached, there is a small road on the left to access the base (opposite this turn-off there is a road where it might be possible to make camp). From the base of the lower pylon follow cairns up the creek bed into the bush where there is a marked trail on the left hand side, this will take you to the right hand side of 'The Den'. The routes are located up on the forested ledges; there is a hand line, some fixed rope and bolts to help the cause - CAUTION - please take care when moving around on the ledges.
Borland Bluffs is the general term for the complex series of cliffs which exist on the north facing slopes below point 1498 off Eldrig Peak.
Access: Find your way to the Borland Lodge. Mark the odometer at the gate into the park and drive 9.5 km along the dirt road. Park at pylon #89. Eagle Rock and the Upper Bluffs should be visible from the road. Follow cairns towards the creek and into the forest on the true left. Then climb the spur (and tape) next to the creek before veering right away from the creek. Continue steeply on taped trail passing most difficulties on the left. A fixed rope leads onto the rocky ridge. It's another 10 minutes to the cliffs. There is space for 2 tents on "Puke Point" and the Borland Bivvy sleeps 5-6 people (four comfortably). The cliffs are a stones throw from the bivvy and Puke Point.
Attribution: Steve Skelton
Access: Across the catchment from the Main Bluffs. From the water supply of the bivvy rock keep sideling following a marked trail that tends upwards to a creek, from there you are on your own. The routes can either be access by abseiling in or from a ledge system from the lookers right- both of which can be committing.
Borland Saddle Faces is the 3/4 faces that can be seen to the southeast from Borland Saddle.
Access: Fiordland National Park. Walk approximately 15 minutes up Borland Saddle track. Head to the top of the first face for abseil rings.
These rocks are the first bits of granite you'll come to on the road. The crags are often used by school groups for abseiling and top rope climbing. A hand made bolt exists half way up a black slab. It is likely that this was the first climb in Borland, led with the single marginal bolt. There are 3 easy, yet to be named climbs virtually on the road. There are roadside signs for traffic to put up when using this area. A good place to practice skills.
Attribution: This crag was bolted on a 'bolting course' by the Southland Section.
13km west of Dipton lies Southland's best limestone crag. Climbers have been visiting this crag since the early 70's, and in the 90's when the use of bolting became wide spread. Climbing their took off... the crag still has huge potential.
Access: 14km From Dipton, go west wards across the Oreti River on the Dipton Castle Rock Road. Take 2nd left and drive up thr Dipton Mossburn Rd. Brian Russell has now taken over from Stephen Clearwater as the landowner of the Castledowns crags. Brian is very ammenable to the continued used of the area for recreation, including rock climbing. There is the possibility of a walking tra...ck which will tour around the top of the bluffs too. Brian says he does not need climbers to contact him before they visit, but bear in mind, we are still visitors to someone's property. In the future, it would great to see the crags placed under the protection of a QEII covenant to preserve the area for future generations (away from the mining company next door..). http://www.openspace.org.nz/
Attribution: Facebook page of Castledowns Climbing/ John Dale
The Area of Climbs from the North End Slabs, including the North End Buttress And the Sycophrantic Area.
Includes the Politics Wall, Gravitation Gully and the Classic Wall.
Covers The Picnic Spot, Hauler Area, Bunny Gully and Top Hat. Walk up Bunny Gully to get up the hill to Top Hat
Lookout point Crag is the Southern most crag on the mainland. Easy to moderate grade climbing on Norite rock. Top bolt anchors for easy crack climbing for the beginner's and some moderate grade bolted routes.
Access: Bluff Hill walking tracks head to Lookout point. From the Hill top to Lookout point 20 minutes 1.3km, from Sterling Point 40 minutes, 3km however walking home is a lot easier. When you get to the BBQ table head over the rock towards the sea. Take care. Abseiling from the top of the crag is almost as good as the walk down. The rock here is abrasive and can be sharp on new areas.
The main wall.
The west facing wall with easier trad routes and abrasive rock. There is a DBA on the right-hand end of the shelf that can probably be used to clean Arete Crack. For the two routes left of these, you're on your own.
The Bivi wall is 20mtrs to the Southeast of the Matai wall. It would suit High Ball Bouldering except for the run-out. Only 1 climb there so far.