Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 105 routes total

Sports - 74 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 30 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V6 V6+

Showing all routes 41 routes total

Sports - 22 routes - avg. grade 23 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 18 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V6 V6+

granite. cragging and multi-pitch

Access: Off Highway 99, approximately 35km south of Manapouri or 45km north of Tuatapere turn west onto Lake Monowai Road. Continue past the Lake Monowai turnoff and follow power lines to Borland Lodge. Pass the kiddies roadside abseiling spot. First real cliffs are approximately 16km from the SH99 or 9km from Borland Lodge heading towards Borland Saddle.

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 25 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V6 V6+
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Before the road leaves the valley and begins climbing to the Borland Saddle there are a cluster of crags which can be seen and accessed from the road. From east to west, the crags are Split Persona Wall, The Watchtower, unnamed, and The Den.

An area where the climbs are not as they appear to be... Hidden and set back, just 20m from road this crag is so close you could throw a rock at a climber from your car. It's located just east of The Watchtower or 5 kms past the pull out to the Upper Bluffs. Parking is near the river immediately after the cuttings in the road. Look for a white wall in the trees to the south. The track is up a steep bank on the left hand side of the cutting. Schizoid is a classic test-piece.

-
Treehugger
Grade 25
6 Bolt
The wall left of SP past 4 bolts then climb the tree past roof and step back onto headwall and climb left arete past 2 more bolts to double bolt anchor
-
Schizoid
Grade 26
20m Hidden away in the forest is this gem. The steep main corner feature which goes to the top of the crag, great gear with a bolt and a single ring when gear is inadequate (ring is useful to re-thread when cleaning route) Double bolt anchor. Double ups 1,2 & 3 camalots are handy. Has been used for aid climbing practice and goes neatly at A2.
-
KB's Crack
Grade 18
15m
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 25 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V6 V6+
 mg 6570 edit

The obvious tower on the left as seen from the road.

Access: Park up when the road side crags come into view. Walk up the bank and down to the left most pylon. Here a cairn marks the start of a flagged track up through beech forest to the base of the Watch Tower.

-
Real Journeys
Grade 25, 24, 23
20 Bolt
1. 18m The left most route on this wall. Climb the slabby face over the small overlap (crux) past three BR's before moving up and left through the ledge system to a double bolt anchor in a corner.
2. 23m Step left and climb the groove with difficulty to a ledge, either climb the face or gain the flake on the right and continue straight up to where the wall steepens then use a system of flakes and underlings to get to a double bolt rap station.
3. 27m Climb straight up the wall to the the third bolt before traversing horizontally right to gain the left facing corner system and overlap. Climb the corners and the small roof then move right along a system of horizontal flakes, continue straight up to a horizontal edges and breaks exiting around the left end of the large roof to a grassy ledge and rap station
-
Energetic Disassembly
Grade 23
5 Bolt
18m
-
A Midsummer Calling
Grade 28
10 Bolt
27m
-
Secrets
Grade 24
9 Bolt
22m
-
The Autumn Tower
Grade 26, 22
18 Bolt
1. 30m Start above the landscaped belay area. Thin moves lead out to the arete which is climbed until a small overlap. Delicate moves and guns out to the double anchor at 30 metres. Epic
2. 20m Move off right from the hanging belay and blast straight up the headwall.
-
Low Voltage
Grade 23
7 Bolt
15m
-
Eurovision
Grade V6

Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 27 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
P2210556 edit

The Den is a series of over hangs connected by access ledges.

Access: Once you have sight of the crag, follow the road a further 200m until the next set of pylons can be reached, there is a small road on the left to access the base (opposite this turn-off there is a road where it might be possible to make camp). From the base of the lower pylon follow cairns up the creek bed into the bush where there is a marked trail on the left hand side, this will take you to the right hand side of 'The Den'. The routes are located up on the forested ledges; there is a hand line, some fixed rope and bolts to help the cause - CAUTION - please take care when moving around on the ledges.

K
Kiore
Grade 21
30m Found at the very left end of cliff, traverse ledges to access belay ring bolt. Climb slab past 3 bolts into lower corner (pro) then follow your nose to gain the epic upper corner. FYI can be done as 2 small pitches, take double ups of medium sized cams.
OMW
Old Man Winter
Grade 27
P1 24 P2 27
FR
Foxy red
Grade 23
7 Bolt
Up the grey rock to the red streak.
A
Alibaba
Grade 28
8 Bolt
Head right out on the slab then head up the the large rounded flake. Bust through the overhang to the ribbed flake thing above.
W
The Wanderer
Grade 17, 17, 18, 0
1. 37m Left leaning ramp that takes you through some exposed climbing to semi-hanging bolted belay. Start at the very far right of the crag up the mossy slab trending left
2. 24m Traverse hard left (stay low) to the tree and follow the dirty ol' ledges to the belay of old man winter.
3. 14m This is what you came here for. Up the smashingly good corner to the best belay ledge of your life. A 30m rope stretching rap from here will land you at a bolt and a handline, where you can scramble off from
4. Grassy ledge. unclimbed, but with a single ring at the end. A 30m rap will reach the ground from here too.

Showing all routes 17 routes total Time 45min 1016 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
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Borland Bluffs is the general term for the complex series of cliffs which exist on the north facing slopes below point 1498 off Eldrig Peak.

Access: Find your way to the Borland Lodge. Mark the odometer at the gate into the park and drive 9.5 km along the dirt road. Park at pylon #89. Eagle Rock and the Upper Bluffs should be visible from the road. Follow cairns towards the creek and into the forest on the true left. Then climb the spur (and tape) next to the creek before veering right away from the creek. Continue steeply on taped trail passing most difficulties on the left. A fixed rope leads onto the rocky ridge. It's another 10 minutes to the cliffs. There is space for 2 tents on "Puke Point" and the Borland Bivvy sleeps 5-6 people (four comfortably). The cliffs are a stones throw from the bivvy and Puke Point.

Attribution: Steve Skelton

F
The Finger
Grade 16
The obvious finger looking thing above Eagle Rock
-
The Beak Project
Grade 0
Open Project. The obvious flake feature on the arete of Eagle Rock has had several attempts. Good gear throughout. Very physical climbing!
-
Cuz, It's Fuzzy
Grade 19
1 Bolt
50m Clip the bolt off the deck and head left to first cam placement (crux). Then fire up to the enjoyable face crack. Continue through crack systems moving right as the angle eases to a grassy ledge with rings.
-
Furry Little Critters
Grade 20, 18
1. 30m P1, 30m, Grade 20. 15mtrs to the left of Feature Face. Climb broken face to gain obvious hand crack. Step right to next crack. Save big gear to the end. DBA
2. 31m P2, 31m, Grade 18, 6Bolts plus gear. From anchor step left and climb through dihedral and then up the prow to DBA.
-
Feature Face
Grade 21
The obvious bolted face 100m from camp towards Eagle Rock.
-
The Bishop
Grade 19, 19
1. Obvious zigzag crack left of Roaring Forties. Apparently there are some face holds. Rings.
2. 50m Clip first bolt off the belay. Then it's an adventure climb following discontinuous cracks, generally tending rightward to chain anchor. Double set of cams and a #5.
-
Roaring Forties
Grade 21
The original route. Starts at bolt under roof left of Myriad. 3 or 4 pitches.
M
Myriad
Grade 22
50m Borland's flagship route. The first pitch involves 50m of varied and sustained quality crack and slab climbing on excellent rock. The recent addition of rings at the top of the Myriad crack allows for an excellent grade 17 crack climb (Escape from Myriad 17)
I2
Invol2ver
Grade 26
8 Bolt
28m Superb techy climbing on wall between Involver and First Blood.
I
Involver
Grade 25
7 Bolt
28m The arete between Myriad and First Blood. Sustained technical, [involved] granite wall climbing at its finest! Note that this route really is 28m long. You need a 60m rope to get down, don't try with a 50.
FB
First Blood
Grade 21

D
Diagnolator
Grade 20
Face crack heaven! Navigate your way through discontinuous cracks straight up the face. Spicy finish! R for DangeR.
FB PII
First Blood Part II
Grade 19
1 Bolt
High on the Upper Bluff. A varied and fun climb that keeps ya smiling.
JR
Joyride
Grade 20
20m Climbs cracks in beautiful orange rock to rings. A must do! cams to #1 and doubles in finger sizes would be handy.
-
Esoteric
Grade 21
11 Bolt
40m adjective : intended for or likely to be understood by only a small number of people with a specialized knowledge or interest. Starts on loose ground to gain first bolt. The climbing then weaves its way across dykes and patinas to the top. Rings.
-
Sweet Fist Crack
Grade 19
20m Walk down track from Bivi for 5 minutes. Just before you veer right down a slippery slope, turn left instead. Follow orange tape west on rough track, cross stream. Walk up hill for 50mtrs or so. Climb past 1 bolt to gain sweet gain fist crack. Rap off tree at top.
-
Equilibrium
Grade 18
9 Bolt
25m

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 45 mins from Bivvy

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

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Rad

Access: Across the catchment from the Main Bluffs. From the water supply of the bivvy rock keep sideling following a marked trail that tends upwards to a creek, from there you are on your own. The routes can either be access by abseiling in or from a ledge system from the lookers right- both of which can be committing.

FR
Flight Rules
Grade 25
30m Ascend the flake to gain the rad dyke feature. Get ya layback on.
RtL
Ride the Lightning
Grade 26
29m Either rap in or gain access to the starting ledge from the side. A stiff boulder problem leads into a stellar corner crack with great gear.
-
The Beak Project
Grade 0
An off-width on the obvious 'beak' of eagle rock. Could this be NZ's hardest trad climb??

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 15–20 min 1100 m

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Borland Saddle Faces is the 3/4 faces that can be seen to the southeast from Borland Saddle.

Access: Fiordland National Park. Walk approximately 15 minutes up Borland Saddle track. Head to the top of the first face for abseil rings.

-
Stoat Trappers
Grade 16
24m 1x 2 metolius required at top of crag
-
Stoat Trappers
Grade 16
24m
-
Working Class
Grade 19
5 Bolt
17m
-
Wood cutters
Grade 20
15m DBA bottom half of this climb now bolted. third climb from right side of wall. Small roof to climb around.

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 0 360 m

These rocks are the first bits of granite you'll come to on the road. The crags are often used by school groups for abseiling and top rope climbing. A hand made bolt exists half way up a black slab. It is likely that this was the first climb in Borland, led with the single marginal bolt. There are 3 easy, yet to be named climbs virtually on the road. There are roadside signs for traffic to put up when using this area. A good place to practice skills.

Attribution: This crag was bolted on a 'bolting course' by the Southland Section.

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MCB nose
Grade 17
4 Bolt
10m Second Bolted route from left to right.
-
Builders Crack
Grade 17
10m 2 medium cams. up the corner and traverse under the roof to the DBA. 3rd climb at this crag from left to right

Showing all routes 47 routes total Time 5min 200 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 45 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
C downs1

13km west of Dipton lies Southland's best limestone crag. Climbers have been visiting this crag since the early 70's, and in the 90's when the use of bolting became wide spread. Climbing their took off... the crag still has huge potential.

Access: 14km From Dipton, go west wards across the Oreti River on the Dipton Castle Rock Road. Take 2nd left and drive up thr Dipton Mossburn Rd. Brian Russell has now taken over from Stephen Clearwater as the landowner of the Castledowns crags. Brian is very ammenable to the continued used of the area for recreation, including rock climbing. There is the possibility of a walking tra...ck which will tour around the top of the bluffs too. Brian says he does not need climbers to contact him before they visit, but bear in mind, we are still visitors to someone's property. In the future, it would great to see the crags placed under the protection of a QEII covenant to preserve the area for future generations (away from the mining company next door..). http://www.openspace.org.nz/

Attribution: Facebook page of Castledowns Climbing/ John Dale

Showing all routes 13 routes total

Sports - 11 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
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The Area of Climbs from the North End Slabs, including the North End Buttress And the Sycophrantic Area.

-
On Your Marks
Grade 14
10m Slab route. On the left hand of the North End Slab. Top rope or solo
-
Gordons Groove
Grade 18
10m Climb the shallow groove on the North End Slab. TR or Solo.
OR
Oppurtunity Rocks
Grade 16
10m The Slab Route, just to the right of GG on the North End Slab. TR or Solo
CP
Centre Plot
Grade 22
10m Slabby/ Sloppie climbing on the RhSide of the North End Slab. TR or Solo
PA
Powder Ates
Grade 21
10m The climb on the right hand end of the North End Slab. TR or Solo
-
Nine Kinds of Slippery
Grade 19
16m These climbs are found on the Outcrop/ slab to the right of the Opportunity Rocks Slab. Smear leftwards across the slab, and install large cam #4. Climb the easy ground to the top, being careful not to deckfall near the top.
-
Slab de Jour
Grade 19
4 Bolt
16m Start to the right of "9 kinds of slippery". Smear up the middle of the face, using some bridging skills through the bulge.
-
Two Smoken Barrels
Grade 21
12m Smear your up the right arête of the 9 kinds of slippery outcrop. A #9wire and a #2.5 CD protect the climb to the 1st bolt.
-
Climbing by Numbers
Grade 19
3 Bolt
16m Star on the the slab on the LhSide of the North End Buttress. Climb through bulge on the water groove. Exercise caution!! has groundfalling runnouts.
DM
Don't Miss the Dish
Grade 21
3 Bolt
18m Climb up through the deep groove, on the North End Buttress, veer left near the top.
BD
Black Doris
Grade 22
5 Bolt
20m On the RhSide of the NEnd Buttress. Climb the diagonal water streak , the traverse on to the arete ot finish.
TL
Toeing the Line
Grade 23
7 Bolt
23m Climb the front face on the NEnd Buttress, up to the arete and complete the climb on the arete.
SA
Sycophrantic
Grade 21
5 Bolt
20m Climb the pillar that has horizontal features.

Showing all routes 20 routes total

Sports - 20 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
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Includes the Politics Wall, Gravitation Gully and the Classic Wall.

SS
Slip Slop Splat
Grade 16
3 Bolt
9m Climb up the LhSide of the Politics Wall.
WB
Writer's Blank
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m Start on SSS (Politics Wall). Traverse R-wards part way up, ending on the finish of RB.
RB
Reiters Bonk
Grade 20
3 Bolt
12m Start right of the bush, climb past 3 bolts to the top
St
Sad State of the Socialist State
Grade 23
4 Bolt
12m Climb up the RHand side of the Politics Wall
Sk
Stalker
Grade 27
4 Bolt
12m On the left side of the Gravitation Gully. Start on the RhSide of the bulge, and climb through the horizontal groove.
-
Feminist Wiles
Grade 16
6 Bolt
15m On the left side of the Gravitation Gully. Climb arete with a L-ward lean, then up the smooth face finishing using the undercling.
EP
Ethics is a Place in England
Grade 20
2 Bolt
12m On the LhSide of the Gravitation Roof. Climb through the steep country, over the bulge, finishing left of the roof. (intimidating)
TG
The Gravitation
Grade 23
4 Bolt
10m Start under the roof, and go R-wards finishing out the RhSide of the roof.
CN
Competitive Networking
Grade 19
6 Bolt
15m On RhSide of Gravitation Gully. Pull through the scoop, and crank through the big pocks, finishing through a bulge, and smearing.
DG
The Dead Go Direct
Grade 16
8 Bolt
18m Slab climbing up the front of the pillar to the right of CN.
VR
Vociferous Resistance
Grade 17
4 Bolt
9m Climb up rounded holds, then up the rib to right of the groove.
VE
Vertigengous Exsistance
Grade 17
2 Bolt
8m From the Classic wall, upper ledge. Climb to the small roof then rock over into the groove.
FP
Flatulent Persistance
Grade 16
2 Bolt
7m From the Classic wall, upper ledge. Start behind the cabbage tree. Climb the dimpled rock.
GG
Grunt N Go
Grade 18
2 Bolt
6m From the Classic wall, upper ledge on Rh-end. Carry out steep crank sequence.
Sl
Solaris
Grade 24
7 Bolt
24m Start at the base of the Classic Wall. Climb through the bulbous features, then up the headwall.
CC
The Castledowns Classic
Grade 15
9 Bolt
30m Starts a t the base of the Classic Wall, and wanders up to the top of the front tower.
Oe
Omelette
Grade 23
4 Bolt
13m Starts at the Lh-end of The Shelf. Climb the steep pocky crack.
CS
Chicken Shit
Grade 20
4 Bolt
12m Starts from the Shelf. Jug hual to the slopey finish, part way up the face.
Aa
Anti-anhedonia
Grade 21, 24
7 Bolt
1. 12m From the Shelf climb up the centre of the face to belay stn.
2. 15m From belay climb through the centre of the steep headwall.
WW
Wombling Woozle
Grade 21
4 Bolt
18m From the belay part way up the face, climb up the slab and head to the Rh- arete. Climb aret to the top of the tower

Showing all routes 14 routes total

Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
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Covers The Picnic Spot, Hauler Area, Bunny Gully and Top Hat. Walk up Bunny Gully to get up the hill to Top Hat

WW
Womb with a Veiw
Grade 15
3 Bolt
8m Start on the slab using the crack. Finsih L-wards up the rib.
SD
Shellfish Desires
Grade 12, 16
6 Bolt
1. 12m Climb up the face to the vegetated ledge.
2. 10m Carry on up the slab to top of boulder.
GS
Girl on a Swing
Grade 18
3 Bolt
11m Climb upwards then veer R-wards to finish.
GR
Gumboot Revival
Grade 21
5 Bolt
19m Start on the ledge, climb through the steep ground to top out on the terrace.
KF
Kingston Flyer
Grade 19
7 Bolt
24m Smear up the slab with intermittant pocks, top out on the prow.
NN
Never Say Nevis Again
Grade 16
8 Bolt
22m Climb the long slab.
TH
The Hauler
Grade 16
3 Bolt
15m Solo onto the slab, then climb the groove to finish.
WB
I got the whisky baby
Grade 21
4 Bolt
15m Slab route to the left of parsimonious bastards
PB
Parsimonious Bastard
Grade 20
3 Bolt
15m Climb the water groove, employing a variety of techniques.
TV
Tunnel Vision
Grade 23
3 Bolt
15m Climb through the juggy start and up the groove.
-
Suicide Bunny
Grade 21
3 Bolt
13m Ascend the yellow rock through to jugs, the climb up the steep section, then traverse L-wards along pockets to the finishing mantle.
-
Jiggy With It
Grade 20
3 Bolt
8m Climb the nroth facing (LH) slab on the L-Hand boulder. Gets thinner as you climb up.
-
Ornithology
Grade 19
3 Bolt
8m Found right of an arch. Climb through some huge pockets, and get streching.
-
Top Hat
Grade 14
4 Bolt
14m On the front of the Top Hat. Climb up the arete then the headwall.
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Showing all routes 17 routes total Time 20 25 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

Lookout point Crag is the Southern most crag on the mainland. Easy to moderate grade climbing on Norite rock. Top bolt anchors for easy crack climbing for the beginner's and some moderate grade bolted routes.

Access: Bluff Hill walking tracks head to Lookout point. From the Hill top to Lookout point 20 minutes 1.3km, from Sterling Point 40 minutes, 3km however walking home is a lot easier. When you get to the BBQ table head over the rock towards the sea. Take care. Abseiling from the top of the crag is almost as good as the walk down. The rock here is abrasive and can be sharp on new areas.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16
Matai

The main wall.

-
Better than Babylon
Grade 24
5 Bolt
12m Starts below the other routes on this wall and finishes at DBA on shelf. The crux is the top section, which goes right from the jugs below last bolt. The left-hand finish is good too, and makes the climb grade 22.
-
Project
Grade 0
Left most bolted line off main shelf at base of wall. Closed project. (P)
-
Perseverance
Grade 19
7 Bolt
12m DBA. Difficult finish First Bolted route to the Left of the Chimney. This climb is a 'must do' with nicely featured rock. A little pumpy. (PV)
-
Wisecrack
Grade 20
The crack on right side of wall and just left of chimney with a couple bolts when the crack runs out.
-
Cracker Jack
Grade 16
11m Crack inside and on the left wall of Bluff's Big Chimney, also uses the arete, but you're not allowed to use the opposite side of the chimney.
-
BBC ( Bluffs Big Chimney)
Grade 16
10m DBA. Climb to the right of Cracker Jack inside the chimney. No use of the back wall otherwise your climbing a grade 12.
-
The Riss
Grade 17
2 Bolt
7m DBA. Big Blocks beside or part of the 'off-width' 10mtrs below the Matai wall.
-
Foveaux Slab
Grade 16
3 Bolt
8m
-
Hakuna Matata
Grade 13
3 Bolt
8m

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 17 - 21
Westiewall topo

The west facing wall with easier trad routes and abrasive rock. There is a DBA on the right-hand end of the shelf that can probably be used to clean Arete Crack. For the two routes left of these, you're on your own.

-
Baby steps
Grade 13
8m DBA, easy trad climb for the beginners. The rock is abrasive
-
Scratchy
Grade 13
8m DBA. Another easy trad rout for the beginners
-
Fat Crack
Grade 14
9m Easy climb up to a Bench where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult i.e. 20 plus.
-
Jamming up a Storm
Grade 20
16m This route runs over the top of fat crack and to the top-out. Fist size crack with good gear. Recommend wearing tape.
-
New Blood
Grade 14
10m Easy climb up to a Bench where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult i.e. 20 plus.
-
Arete Crack
Grade 14
10m Easy climb up to a Bench where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult i.e. 20 plus. Nice moves here.
-
Focal Point
Grade 21
8m A short finger sized crack at the focal point of the crag. Start from the anchors above on shelf above the main arete

Showing all routes 1 route total

The Bivi wall is 20mtrs to the Southeast of the Matai wall. It would suit High Ball Bouldering except for the run-out. Only 1 climb there so far.

-
Gumboot
Grade 13
10m At Bivi Wall. Easy trad climb on tram line like crack to start with, and finishing on a very nice single crack. First climbed in the rain wearing gumboots.