Fetched from ClimbNZ on Nov 17th, 2017

Showing all routes 415 routes total

Sports - 345 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 69 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V1 V0 - V1

Showing all routes 407 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 343 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 63 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V1 V0 - V1

Includes Paynes Ford, Pohara, Sandhill Creek, Lake Sylvester.

Attribution: Information Collated by Simon Middlemass, and also http://paynesford.blogspot.com/

Showing all routes 7 routes total 1400 m

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Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 11 0 - 16 22 - 25
Iron%20hill

Cobb Valley. Traditional climbing in an alpine setting.

Access: Walk to Lake Sylvester Hut and onwards to Lake Sylvester, then another 20 mins brings you to the base of the crags at Iron Hill.

Attribution: Paynes Ford Blog

TG
The Guiltoline
Grade 18
On the Guiltoline Wall, follow the weakness, swing or straddle your way to the top. (scene of a minor epic)
BSC
Big Scary Chimney?
Grade 0
On the Guiltoline Wall. Top roped only due to the lack of large pro. Bring the Big Bros and go for it.
OBP
The Old Butlers Last Pins
Grade 17
35m On the Brain Wall. The Lh-Arete. 2 pins. Mantle at the top, and belay from the block
SC
Shadow Castle
Grade 16
35m On the Brain Wall. Thin crack. Good stances to the block mantle.
ADC
Amazonian Dream Crack
Grade 14
35m On the Brain Wall. First line on Iron Hill. Belay form the ledge or top of the gully.
MF
Moonflower Corner
Grade 18
The oboius corner on the Moonflower Wall. Please try not to tred on the flowers.
-
Top Rope Arete
Grade 22
On the Moonflower Wall

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 1hr 20min 1325 m

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Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 16
Sylvester

Cobb Valley Traditional Climbing in an alpine setting.

Access: Turn right at reseriovior and cross the dam, continue 1km to the Lake Syvester track head. Start walking to the Lake Sylvester Hut and 20 mins beyond the hut ot the lake.

Attribution: Paynes Ford Blog

MG
Mumbai Groove
Grade 22, 0
1. On the Bollywood Wall. Start in the space between the rock and wall. Climb the arete though till horizontal break. A spicey Mantle leads to the ledge. (devious pro)
2. Put your knee in your ear and your foot in your mouth. Now you are doing the Mumbai Groove. Bombay Chimney, very good pro, and hillarous to watch.
1
Weeping and Wailing
Grade 21
On the Wailing Wall. Climb through the roof on the L-most crack. Finish on the blunt arete or thin crack to the right. Try not to whine as much as the 1st ascentionist.
2
Fussing and Fighting
Grade 22
The most obvious line on the wall. Good crack climbing leads to a spicey crux on the upper headwall.
3
Unnamed
Grade 0
A wonderful line of much resistance that remains toproped.
4
Jammin
Grade 18
Behind the tree lies an overhung crack with great pro and a slabby finish.
5
Infinerty and Beyond
Grade 17

Showing all routes 256 routes total Time 5-15 min

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Sports - 211 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 45 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Paynes

Paynes Ford is probably New Zealand’s most popular sport climbing crag.

 

Access: Lets look after the place. Please! Paynes Ford is a Scenic Reserve at which DoC tolerates our climbing. It is a privilege not a right to climb here. That privilege could be withdrawn. This brings with it a responsibility to use and conserve the resource for others. It is not the general public that wanders around the bottom of these cliffs it is climbers. If you are a recent visitor what “was” here might not be apparent. Over the years there has been a lot of intentional and unintentional damage to native vegetation in particular, along with compaction of the soils around the base of the climbs and erosion on unofficial shortcut tracks. Drip-line mosses have almost all vanished. The bush is much more open now as our presence has forced back much of the native plants to meet our needs. As numbers of climbers grows the pressure increases rapidly. Thanks to all those climbers who are caring of our environment. HOW CAN YOU HELP? DON”T even think about putting up a new climb if it means removing/cleaning moss or vegetation as has been done recently. 1. Keep to the established and often marked tracks. The good folks who care about the place are busy building small stone barriers around regenerating Kahikatea, Miro and Matai, please watch out for these. We don’t know where all these little beggars are so please keep your eyes open. 2. Minimize your impact at the bottom of the cliffs by keeping all your stuff in one compact place and not wandering back into the bush to see what the climbers doing or whatever. We’re hoping the undergrowth regenerates and there are heaps of orchids here that you’re trampling. This sort of impact is worst at the Creese and Little Lost Walls 3. Don’t walk to the tops of cliffs. In 1999 there was a very dry, hot summer and all the Hebes and Kowhai that lined the cliff tops died off. Little, wee ones are just starting to come away again and won’t benefit from little human feet trampling on top of them. Put top ropes up by leading routes or get some strong type to do it for you. 4. Clean tick marks and excess chalk off the cliff and holds. This stuff is visual litter and makes holds really greasy on hot days. Long may there be hot days. 5. No graffiti anywhere. 6. Please abseil from the top of cliffs rather than lower from the fixed anchors. This helps the hardware at the top last a lot longer. Running a top rope through the fixed anchors is about the worst thing you can do. Use a biner at the top instead. 7. The bolt fund and the folks who stick the stuff in the cliff can’t and don’t want to fix all your fixed anchor woes. Assessing whether bolts will stay put is your responsibility. You can help by carrying a spanner to do up loose bolts. Please don’t come sniveling to us if it all goes wrong. 8. Use the loo’s provided (DoC loos at Paynes, loo’s at the port of Tarakohe, public toilets behind the tennis club at Pohara, and the loo’s at Hangdog). No shitting in the woods, loo paper daisies or burning loo paper please. 9. Learn what banana passionfruit is and kill it by cutting the vine at its base. 10. Kill all possums and rats. If you’re new to this country, Possums aren’t cute, cuddly tree bears, they’re a noxious pest that consumes huge amounts of vegetation, young birds and eggs. The most effective way of killing them is by biting their nose off with your teeth! If you’re too spineless to do this then try pointing a small blond dog at the possum, she’ll do the biting for you. 11. There are some areas that local climbers have either agreed not to climb on or not develop to keep in harmony with the local non climbers. Check at Hangdog if you’ve spied some rock you want to be let loose at. 12. Give a little dosh to the bolt fund. It’s managed by an odd and only semi-organized but passionate bunch of volunteers who generally know what they’re doing. Thank You.

Attribution: Climbs have been collated by Simon Middlemass

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 3min

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Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

The closest wall to the road. This wall was closed to all climbing in 2009/10 and all climbs removed in consultation with DoC

-
Big Sharks at Night
Grade 22
2 Bolt
13m
-
Gangrene
Grade 25
2 Bolt
14m
-
Terror, Illness and Rebellion
Grade 18
2 Bolt
15m
-
Zen Navigation
Grade 15

-
Herbal Infusion
Grade 19
2 Bolt
12m
-
Checkmate
Grade 21
3 Bolt
12m
-
The Darling Buds of May
Grade 23
3 Bolt
14m

Showing all routes 21 routes total Time 5 min

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Sports - 17 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Creese%20lh 0Creese%20rh 0

This is where Charlie Creese started the legacy of Paynes Ford by establishing the first climbs.

Bt
Blobbet
Grade 16
4 Bolt
14m Lh-end of the wall
GP
Goodbye Cream-Poofters
Grade 17
4 Bolt
15m L of the chimney.
RB
Re-election Blues
Grade 16
2 Bolt
16m The arete to the Rh-side of the chimney
-
"Why would you wave at a one armed man on a bicycle?"
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Following one of Hobies "stories". It has 3 new bolts before joining the original route.
-
Golden Years
Grade 14
5 Bolt
Just right is a chimney and right of this Re-election blues. Start as for Re-election blues in the scoop but instead of moving left continue up the easy arete.
MC
Midwife Crisis
Grade 14
6 Bolt
18m on the Lh-side of a small wall.
-
Calling all Hobbits
Grade 12
1 Bolt
8m Small arete.
ET
Elvis Lives in Takaka
Grade 18
3 Bolt
18m Asced the wall to the L of the gully starting in the scoop, moving onto the ledge and upper wall.
Bb
Blockbuster
Grade 19
3 Bolt
18m Starts 2m L of a cleft.
-
Bite My Chunk
Grade 19
5 Bolt
18m Start in the scoop and using the Lh wall only.
FV
The Fearless Vampire Killers
Grade 20
18m Right of a chmney there is a small roof, climb through on the Rh-side.
-
Gorgonzola Goes
Grade 15
Climb diagonaly R-wards to the ledge, and then go striaght up
-
Cheddarmasters Chioce
Grade 15
Climb diagonaly R-wards to the ledge, then move along the ledge to the R, and up through the bulge
HY
Hula Yula
Grade 19
2 Bolt
14m A direct start to CC, that goes through an overhung scoop.
-
Spotty Britt
Grade 23
4 Bolt
14m An overhung wall that moves onto a slab and finishes on the main ledge.
-
Tongue in Groove
Grade 19
4 Bolt
14m Climb the groove past the hole onto the slab to a common finish with the last bolt on SB.
-
Sweet Dreams
Grade 21
3 Bolt
16m Climb the pillar R of TiG
-
Hunting Tartan
Grade 18
8 Bolt
24m Start on the ledge below HT. Traverse diagonaly R-wards past the SD start, then move on upwards.
SP
Something Precious
Grade 21
18m On the Lh-edge of the Rawhide roof. Out L and up to the horizontal break, then up & L past 2 bolts, continueing to the top of Rawhide.
Rh
Rawhide
Grade 22
5 Bolt
18m Swing out under the roof to lip of the roof and onto a ledge. Continue L-wards through the roofs and slab.
Rs
Rumplestiltskin
Grade 23
6 Bolt
18m Use the Rawhide start to the 1st bolt, then head up & R-wards.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

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Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Rata%20wall

Track 2, go right

GBC
The Golden Bay Connection
Grade 24
7 Bolt
Start on the Rh-side of the Rawhide roof, traverse L-wards along the break, and diagonaly up the wall.
SA
Serac Attack
Grade 21, 18
1. Start from the ledge below the Rata Wall. Traverse L-wards to the overhung crack.
2. Up the face to the R of the arete.
-
Granulated Chicken Booster
Grade 22
8 Bolt
Use HD start. Trend L-wards to the ledge, and up the face through the bulges.
-
Humpty Dumpty
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Start just R of a crack, and climb up the centre of the wall to the belay stn on the 1st ledge.
-
All The Kings Horses
Grade 21
5 Bolt
Up the headwall above the ledge. Can be used as a 2nd or extended pitch of HD.
-
Savage Honeymoon
Grade 21
7 Bolt
Rh -side of the wall.
-
Woop Woop Pull Up
Grade 22
12m Start a few meteres R of the flowstone. Climb through the bulge to the ledge.
-
Last Call for Flight 911
Grade 21
Start R of WWPU. Traverse R-wards on big holds to the anchor at the start of BYH.
-
Bob and Betty Go Mating
Grade 22

-
Bang Your Head
Grade 20
Climb the arete.
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Rat%20trap

Named after the burnt down pub at Upper Takaka

TF
Tales By Firelight
Grade 21
8 Bolt
25m R of the arete. Climb to the ledge, then traverse L-wards and up the face through a overhung bulge.
RD
Rat Up a Drainpipe
Grade 20
6 Bolt
25m Start on the ledge. Climb the shallow groove, and pass though a small roof, to to the big scoops and exposed finish.
BG
Bilbo's Great Adventure
Grade 21
8 Bolt
24m A techo star tout of a scoop to a break, then reach through the bulge.
RW
No Rest for the Wicked
Grade 22
7 Bolt
22m From the big block on the ground, carry out a few hard moves and on the way to the upper wall.
ID
The Immaculate Deception
Grade 22
6 Bolt
21m Use the common start as for NRftW. Veer R-wards at the 2nd bolt.
Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21
Stone%20symposium%20wall

Past the vegetated gully, gain the ledge, do the mileage

7D
7 Days a Week
Grade 25
11 Bolt
Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side.
Sp
Spitfire
Grade 20
6 Bolt
From the ground, climb the wall trending L-wards to the ledge.
Se
Seafire
Grade 21
4 Bolt
The 2nd pitch of Spitfire. from the ledge up the wall.
Jo
Jericho
Grade 21
This line starts up Temples of Stone (actually ToS starts up Jericho) and continues up parallel and left of this route and through the upper bulge. Originally done with a mix of so-so natural pro by Pete Hunt in 1991 and seldom repeated has recently been retrobolted but still has the sporting aspect. It should be popular.
TS
Temples of Stone
Grade 18
8 Bolt
27m L of the arete, has common 1st bolt wihth J.
-
Space Invader
Grade 20
10 Bolt
30m The climb starts with a bouldery move off the ground, heads up into the crack moves delicately R and you will find yourself standing R of the pro placements on the bottom of R for Ranger, D for Danger continue up the wall left of Stone Symposium.This may also be an alternative start to R for Ranger, D for Danger with or without the Danger direct variation left of the arete from Jimmy. Confused? You have a right to be, however following the pinkish-brown hangers should make matters clearer.
JF
Jimmy the Torn Piece of Paper gets a Helping Hand from Frederick the Friendly Roll of Sellotape
Grade 20
3 Bolt
A direct start for ToS or R4RD4D.
RD
R for Ranger D for Danger
Grade 21
27m Just R of the arete. Start on an overhung wall and up to the base of the arete then wind your way up the arete.
SS
Stone Symposium
Grade 21
18m Use the same start as R4RD4D, then climb the wallto the Rh-side of the arete.
ST
Stroking the Tiger
Grade 18
7 Bolt
18m From the ledge, climb through a steep strat and though a bulge. Traverse L-wards on the ledge, and climb through the hollow flake, to finish on good holds.
WJ
Wazzo Jugs
Grade 18
7 Bolt
18m Climb through the bulge to finish on the jugs.
AL
Autumn Leaf
Grade 18
6 Bolt
18m Climb L-wards over the bulge and then L of the Rh-leaning crack.
SF
Sacred Forest
Grade 19
8 Bolt
18m Up the groove on the Rh-side of the wall, then move through a series of bulges.
-
Clutter & Vine
Grade 16
On an outlying wall. Bouldery start, with straight forward climbing to finish. Walk off.
-
Rata Tui
Grade 15
A 15m high slab beside the track between the Tenuite and Creese Walls. Bouldery start in a scoop, then move R to avoid the rata vine, and continue L-wards daiagonaly to the high point of the slab and the rata tree.
Sports - 19 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Tenuite%20wall%201

Up above the bush on a small platform with a steepish routes. Quite popular and dries quickly after rain. Because it is above the trees there is no shelter from the afternoon sun in summer. A variety of traverses have also been done eg starting at Fat Cats and finishing up Dr Terrific

Access: Take the embankment track to Track 3 - just where the embankment track comes out of the trees and leaves the river. The track passes the small SLAVE Wall, the overhanging CARNAGE Wall, then drop down below the large roof of the PANTECHNICON wall, pass the LOWER Tenuite wall then take the UP track.

FD
Fluffy Duck
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Lh end of the upper wall. Start from pedestal and trend L-wards.
DT
Hi I'm Doctor Terrific
Grade 20
4 Bolt
14m The steep juggy wall to the R of FD.
Hp
Headplant
Grade 20
4 Bolt
14m Up the centre of the wall.
-
Walk the Line
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Walk the Line is a 4 bolt direct line just left of a yellow streak between Headplant (21) and Loose Unit (20) on the classic Tenuite Wall. The first clip is currently a bit "goey" but is off a small positive crimp.
LU
Loose Unit
Grade 20
3 Bolt
15m On the grey wall to the R of the yellow streak. Crux after the 2nd bolt.
GF
Go With the Flow
Grade 22
4 Bolt
14m Uses the hanging flowstone feature.
FC
Fat Cats
Grade 19
4 Bolt
15m R of the flowstone. Finishes on ASTN
SN
A Shout Towards Noon
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Rh-end of the upper wall. Start on Rh-end of the ledge, move up R-wards to the Lh leaning ramp, then through the bulge.
BM
Badgers Mount
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Up And right from the main Tenuite Wall. The Lh route, of the hanging basin.
BB
Bent Badgers
Grade 19
3 Bolt
Up And right from the main Tenuite Wall. The Rh route, of the hanging basin.
-
That's not my name
Grade 24
Starts R of the track to the Tenuite Wall. Good moves up the steepening wall, crimpers, then fun through the roof. 4 Bolts. (WHILE THIS WAS GRADED 24 SEVERAL LOCALS WHO HIKE 26 HAVE FAILED MISERABLY ON THIS ROUTE...)
LC
Lapsed Catholics
Grade 22
5 Bolt
On the Lower Tenuite Wall. Start on jugs and move R-wards onto a slab, and carry on to the Tenuite Ledge.
-
Slap and Tickle
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Starts R of Lapsed Catholics and keeps left of Romancing the Stone on the Lower Tenuite wall. 3 Bolts.
-
Romancing the Stone
Grade 15
2 Bolt
11m On the Lower Tenuite Wall. Climb the grey slab trending L-wards.
GW
Grey Warbler
Grade 14
2 Bolt
8m On the Lower Tenuite Wall. Climb the slab.
-
Persistence of time
Grade 25
8 Bolt
An extension of Grey Warbler on the Lower Tenuite wall. Move R and through the roof to the Badger Basin . 8 Bolts.
-
Stallywag
Grade 27
7 Bolt
Starts L of Chicken Hawk flaky start trends let through a line of pockets to the break and goes out through the roof via the stal and some wild foot free manoeuvres. 7 Bolts - top chains are just right of Bent Badgers Belay
CH
Chicken Hawk
Grade 16
4 Bolt
Start at the cracks and pull through the roof, finish up the wall to belay at the Tenuite Ledge.
-
Yellow Hammer
Grade 17
3 Bolt
On the Lower Tenuite Wall, L of the arete on broken yellow rock.

Start scambling right past the Lower Tenuite Wall for these climbs

-
Pousse ton Froc
Grade 27
7 Bolt
Start on the low pedestal above Chicken Hawk. Move out L-wards, and through the roof, by-passing the stalctites to finish up HM.
-
Happy Motoring
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Go L-wards from the Off-Ramp, cross the wall below the highest roof. Foolow the flake through the roof, move R and straight up the wall.
-
Electric Sunroof
Grade 23
Straight up from the Off-Ramp, moving through the roof.
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 25 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 26+

Classic steep climbs

Access: Track3

-
Working Up Length
Grade 15
The corner crack to L of CatC.
-
Carnage at the Crossroads
Grade 18
4 Bolt
18m Scambl up red pinnacle. Clip bolt on Lh walll move R & upwards to finish.
-
There is No Spoon
Grade 27
6 Bolt
18m The direct start to CatC.
-
Skiing Off a Convex Slope
Grade 25
4 Bolt
13m Climb the steep wall on the LH-side of the arete.
-
Responsible Lunges
Grade 25
5 Bolt
13m The overhung arete.
-
The Big Cheese
Grade 25
2 Bolt
Start the RL arete. Climb R to the NFZ rap stn.
-
No Fly Zone
Grade 22
3 Bolt
8m The arete to the R of RL
-
Vertabrae
Grade 26
Move up the gully, then climb the Lh wall.
-
State of Mind
Grade 13
Start R of the cleft. Climb up the chimney the L-wards onto and up the face.
-
Tunnels & Quarrying Act 1971
Grade 13
Start as for SoM. Avoid the squeeze by stepping R, then climb through bulge onto upper wall.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

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Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25

A small shady wall

-
Primal Scream
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Lh-side of the wall
-
Three Poms & a Swedish Farafetta
Grade 20
2 Bolt
Technical slab
-
Dave's Belay Slave gets Bored
Grade 18
2 Bolt
The centre of the wall.
-
Popy Mifmos Goes Direct
Grade 20
The direct start to DBSgB.
-
Bondage for Beginners
Grade 17
Rh-S of the wall.

Showing all routes 45 routes total Time 10min

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 37 routes - avg. grade 24 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Globe%20lh 0Globe%20wall 0Globe%20rhs 0

Home of the Paynes megaclassics

Access: Track3

-
Dread Fever
Grade 14
Lh- end of wall
SB
Super Blonde
Grade 20
3 Bolt
14m Climb cutiously to the 1st bolt, back R-wards at the 2nd bolt, then up the face.
FR
Feisty Red
Grade 18
3 Bolt
14m Climb up Rh side of the wall, bridging is off limits.
BbS
Burly but Sensitive
Grade 22
3 Bolt
13m Ascend up the corner, then break left across thje wall to finish.
RLM
Red Lining to the Max
Grade 23
3 Bolt
13m R of the corner. Follow the red line/streak.
-
Calling Ruthie
Grade 20
1m L of the arete.
VoB
Voice of the Beehive
Grade 20
3 Bolt
13m Climb the arete.
EE
Effervescing Elephants
Grade 19
Climb the wall and finish on the corner.
SW
Sweetest William
Grade 25
4 Bolt
14m Start as for HV, go L up the white streak.
HV
High Voltage
Grade 23
5 Bolt
18m Start up vertical wall, veer R onto arete.
-
Master of Puppets
Grade 23
4 Bolt
Boulder to the ledge, then crank up the arete.
-
Six Foot Thruster
Grade 21
A wall that has flowstone on it. Climb the face.
-
Dave's Arete
Grade 25
4 Bolt
16m Ascend the face to Lh-side of the arete, work you way onto the arete near the top.
AM
Amino Max
Grade 26
7 Bolt
Start up the wall to the R of DA, joining the AP headwall at the 5th bolt.
-
Dancing on a Skewer
Grade 28
9 Bolt
25m Start between AM & AP. Traverse L crossing AP at 2nd bolt up slopey wall.
AP
Amino Pro
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m Climb up the small wall to ledge. Carry on up the big wall slightly L-wards.
Rt
Recidivist
Grade 20
6 Bolt
Starts R of Amino Pro start to the ledge then head straight up a shallow groove to finish left of teh Grumpy Cat belay. 6 Bolts.
GC
Make My Grumpy Cat Dance
Grade 21
5 Bolt
16m Start below the left leaning ramp, veer L towards the yellow streak at the 2nd bolt. Reachy for short people then a balancey section
KT
The Killing Time
Grade 25, 28
9 Bolt
1. 16m Start on the wall veer R at the 2nd bolt. Climb the arete to end of the pitch.
2. 12m Move R from the belay and up the wall above.
TF
The Unforgiven
Grade 31
5 Bolt
16m The old Ivan Vostinar project. A direct line left of the corner to The Killing Time belay and avoiding any holds on The Killing Time
DH
Dirty Harry
Grade 18
4 Bolt
Up the corner. Originally climbed as a trad route.Retro bolted 2011.
FLP
Feeling Lucky Punk?
Grade 25
3 Bolt
15m Right of the corner.
MmD
Make My Day
Grade 25
3 Bolt
15m Up a red streak. 2nd route R of the corner.
-
Overkill
Grade 25
8 Bolt
From the Make My Day start moves right and continues to top of the crag - the only line here that climbs the upper wall.The break is a bit friable so make sure there's nobody in the drop zone. 8 Bolts.
Gy
Gravity
Grade 24
4 Bolt
16m Move up to the big pockets, finishing on the runout headwall.
PF
Power Failure
Grade 23
4 Bolt
15m Climb the Rh-side of small nose.
-
Windfall (formerly known as Slapstick)
Grade 24
5 Bolt
Some would call this black humour. A good route that weaves its way up between Powerfailure and Body Nazi's - A large branch used to threaten a fall but it came crashing down in a big storm in 2011. Go right at the last bolt, then back left to mantle.
-
Body Nazis
Grade 25
5 Bolt
15m Start on small hold, and move up into slopey territory. Has a vicious pocket.
-
Celluloid Heroes
Grade 24
4 Bolt
15m Climb through the bulge on the Rh-side of the wall.
-
Weetbix Heroes
Grade 24
5 Bolt
12m The short, sharp arete.
-
Harry Potter on Crack
Grade 15
Lh leaning corner and ramp.
-
Monkey Master
Grade 28
18m Immediately right of the corner. Start on the wall with a medium cam to protect the start, tackles the crux roof on the left. Way hard if you are short.Continue to the top.
-
Stoned Monkey
Grade 28
4 Bolt
18m Lh-side of the flowstone.
BW
The Beast Within
Grade 26
18m Use the same start as P, move L past the break.
Po
Papageno
Grade 27
4 Bolt
15m The 2nd red streak L of the corner.
Cw
Cloudwalker
Grade 27
4 Bolt
18m The red streak Lof the corner.
FB
The Fat Fight Back
Grade 21
6 Bolt
Up the corner past the flowstone.
-
Greenday
Grade 10
7 Bolt
Between Cloudwalker wall and Electricorp Production right of The Fat fight back
EP
Electricorp Production
Grade 22
5 Bolt
18m Up the Lh-side of the Electricorp Wall - the wall within the fenced area.
SG
Send a Gorrilla
Grade 23
18m Climb the steep wall to the L of the totara
FP
Feral Pakeha
Grade 23
9 Bolt
Start behind the totara. Climb through bulge, move R-wards and up the wall.
PE
Positive Energy
Grade 23
8 Bolt
The slightly overhung route to the Lh-side of S.
-
Gollum
Grade 25
8 Bolt
Start on the ground to the L of S and join and finish S at the 2nd bolt.
Sc
Superconductor
Grade 23
7 Bolt
25m Start on Lh-side of the block, go L-wards through the bulge. once over the bulge veer R-wards up the head wall.
-
Creative Confusion
Grade 27
7 Bolt
15m Start on the block and head R-wards throught the bulge. Join S back Left on the head wall.
Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 24 0 - 16 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25

The cleft between Globe & Little Globe Walls.

Access: Track 4

-
Beavis
Grade 6
5 Bolt
Flake crack (left hand line 3m left of entrance to Tomorrow Gully) 5B
-
Futurism
Grade 28
5 Bolt
14m strart on the red rock to the Lh-side of the flowstone.
-
Wreck Tangle
Grade 21
13m Up the wall to Rh-side of the flowstone.
-
Clutch Cargo
Grade 22
3 Bolt
12m The 2nd pitch of WT
-
Fauvism
Grade 28
2 Bolt
13m Up on multi-coloured & textured rock.
-
Procrastination
Grade 26
7 Bolt
Up the red wall to the blocky break, then on to the grey wall.
-
Bulga-nomics
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Up a boulder start to the large flake & break.
-
Jaun Baunista
Grade 24
7 Bolt
Continue above Bulga-nomics to the grey wall above.
-
The Blue Matador
Grade 24
Start from the L of the block at the end of the canyon. Embark on the wall and upwards.
-
En Passant
Grade 25
R of BM
-
Craig's Jam
Grade 18
Crack system at Rh end of the gully.
-
Butthead
Grade 8
5 Bolt
Right hand line (just at entrance) up arete 5B
Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 24 22 - 25 26+
Little%20globe%20wall1

Just Right of Tomorrow Gully

-
Flash Back
Grade 25
3 Bolt
10m 2nd route left of 'You're either dead or you're not' ... climb behind Totara tree ... steep fingery moves 3B **
-
Power Surge
Grade 23
3 Bolt
11m Starts from 'You're either dead or you're not', moves left and then straight up. 3 bolts **
DoN
You're Either Dead or You're not
Grade 22
3 Bolt
14m Starts at the crack on the Lh-side of the wall. Go R-wards at the 3rd bolt then striaght up.
-
Tolkien's World
Grade 26
4 Bolt
Just R of YEDoYN. A Rh diagonal line
SC
Short Circiut
Grade 22
2 Bolt
12m Moves diagonally L past 2 bolts then back R to flowstone.
LO
Lights Out
Grade 22
3 Bolt
13m Start R of flowstone up the weakness, moving R at the top to the E belay.
-
Stieziet
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Between LO & E
-
Electrocution
Grade 27
4 Bolt
13m The Rh route on the wall.

A large Boulder

-
Little Tempter
Grade 29
4 Bolt
Start as for M, then move L-wards.
-
Mohican
Grade 24
Move into the large scoop, then directly through the overhang.
-
Te Rauparaha
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Start as for M, then move R-wards
-
Forgotten
Grade 21
4 Bolt
The small arete on the Rh-end of the boulder.
Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21

Large boulders on the way to Wall of Thugs

-
The Infidel
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Start on the Rh side of an overhanging arete - a bit tricky but good. This area is seldom climbed on and routes get dirty so a onsight can be tricky.
-
Pembroke Calling
Grade 19
The same start as TI, but carry on up the flake.
-
Where the Woozle Wasn't
Grade 17
3 Bolt
1m left of RBGH. Climb L & up to the flake, then move L at the 3rd bolt.
-
Rupert Bear Goes Hiking
Grade 19
3 Bolt
Climb up trad pro scolloped groove (overhung) move leftwards after 3rd bolt.
-
The What of What? Said Pooh
Grade 20
Up the steep wall
-
Bear Nescessities
Grade 18
2 Bolt
5m L of PRDD. Near the top of The Fortress to the R of a large roof.
-
Beas Knees
Grade 17
2 Bolt
4m L of PRDD, at the top of The Fortress.
-
No Whack Only dangle
Grade 18
3m L of PRDD. Ascend the large scollops.
-
Peter Rabbit Discovers Drugs
Grade 16
At the South East corner of The Fortress. Follow the jugs just L of the arete.
-
Morepork Pie
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Bulge to L of an overhang.
-
Lush
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Starts at the highest part of the roof. Follow the scollop R-wards to the rap stn.
-
Big Day Out
Grade 19
4 Bolt
Climb through the overhung wall at the widest place, trending R-wards at the start, finihing over the lip.
-
Lollapalooza
Grade 19
3m R of BDO, trending L to the BDO rap stn.
-
Slash
Grade 22
6 Bolt
6m R & downhill from L. Climb bulge & face.
-
Burn
Grade 22
6 Bolt
Start behind a punga tree.
-
What'as an Ecotourist?
Grade 22
6 Bolt
5m R & down from the punga tree. Climb through scoop, the head R past 3B then back L onto the face.
-
Old
Grade 22
7 Bolt
Start up WaEt, head R-wards to the arete.
-
Rocking Mickey
Grade 21
Climb faint grooveon the R of overhangs.
-
Rapping Goofy
Grade 17
At the bootm of the hill, there is a large scoop. Move up & R-wards onto the face.

Uphill & right of The Forress and left of the track

Access: Track 5

-
Indecision
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Use the same start as AL, but carrying on L and up.
-
Alternative Lifestyle
Grade 17
3 Bolt
Daiagonal L-wards & up.
-
Arachna Obeeelisk
Grade 18
A line of moss between AL & CC
-
Champange Cruise
Grade 13
A steep slab climb.
Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Little%20lost%20wall1

An area with short and funky climbs.

Access: Track 5

-
Wrinkle
Grade 16
3 Bolt
9m Lh side of the wall
-
Candy Man
Grade 18
4 Bolt
18m Avoid using the flake at the start. To the left of JG
-
Jerry Garcia
Grade 16
4 Bolt
9m To the left of the flowstone.
-
Lost Soul
Grade 21
3 Bolt
9m Face climbing on slopers
EI
Ecological Itch
Grade 14
3 Bolt
9m Up the juggy wall.
DL
Doo-little
Grade 16
3 Bolt
9m Up the face between EI &TWT.
WT
The Wrong Trousers
Grade 14
3 Bolt
9m The juggy climb just left of the arete.
WB
Wobbly Bits
Grade 13
2 Bolt
9m Climb the steep ramp.
LR
Lucy and the Sky with Prismatic Raindrops
Grade 14
2 Bolt
9m Start at the practice anchor.
BR
The Bell-ringer
Grade 10
2 Bolt
9m Jug haul
MH
Mind the Hebes
Grade 12
2 Bolt
9m Climb the slabby face.
DD
Damsel in Dis-dress
Grade 15
3 Bolt
10m Left of the flowstone and KP
-
Knicknack Paddywack
Grade 18
4 Bolt
15m Left of the arete, on featured holds.
-
Side Effects
Grade 25
5 Bolt

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21

Between Little Lost Wall & Wall of Thugs

Access: Track 6

-
Mea Culpa
Grade 27
5 Bolt
16m Just riht of the KP arete.
-
Porkage
Grade 24
3 Bolt
The corner and wall
-
Bury Me in a Y Shaped Coffin
Grade 21, 18
11 Bolt
1. Lh start. Climb wall to the R of a Lh faciing corner, to a crack then onto a ledge.
2. Rh Start. Start at chimney, gain the crack to the common finish.
-
Release the Bats
Grade 18
Cilmb the overhung corner/crack, pull through the roof into the chimney to the terrace then onto the top via the crack.
-
It's A Beautiful Day
Grade 17
2 Bolt
Start at the Lh side of the arete. Veer leftwards.
-
Misery
Grade 22
3 Bolt
On the block below the main crag. Wall on the Rh side of the arete.
Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Upper%20wall%20of%20thugs

The Steep wall with the big roofs on the left side. Access is from the Little Lost Wall - head R, south, until you are in the 1080 Gully - there is a fixed line that leads you up to the 1080 belay. To start Typhoon Tongue or the other routes from the traverse ledge you can either traverse across from the 1080 ledge or climb one of the routes on the Lower Wall. Due to the cliff shape and for the complete experience Java Jive and Burn,Hollywood,Burn finish over the top and require a top belay (tree) and the 2nd to follow. Alternatively back clean the route.

-
Sex Lies & Videotapes
Grade 24
Above 1080 & the letter G.
1080
1080 & the Letter G
Grade 23
6 Bolt
13m Step across from the belay ledge and ascend the exposed roof.
TT
Typhoon Tongue
Grade 22
6 Bolt
13m Start on the 1080 ledge, move right and climb through the roof parralell and to the right of 1080.
JJ
Java Jive
Grade 22
6 Bolt
12m A direct line about 4m R of the Typhoon Tongue start. It joins BHB at it's traverse and they share the same finish. There is a DBB below the ledge that allows you to view your leader.
BHB
Burn Hollywood Burn
Grade 21
6 Bolt
13m Starts R of JJ where the ledge is constricted, goes up for about 3 bolts before traversing left to finish over the top.
Wt
Wilt
Grade 21
4 Bolt
10m Goes through Rh end of roof climb just right of the flowstone.
IS
Intensive Scare
Grade 24
5 Bolt
12m Starts at Rh end of the 1080 ledge, jug crank and reach through the roof.
-
Head Line
Grade 26
5 Bolt
Starts 3m right of Intensive Scare. Step off the very end of the ledge and head straight out across roof. 5B. "A definite contender for the most outrageous position at Paynes, wild moves on solid holds the whole way!" Recommend a back belay to Intensive Scare chain for more enjoyable climbing /belay experience. A 60m rope is essential to lower/abseil off the anchors.
BMJ
Big Mama Jama
Grade 26
7 Bolt
12m Starts as for the 2nd pitch to Dread Carefully. Move left at the 3rd bolt to ascend the wall.
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 22 22 - 25
Thug%20wall%20lower

Below that big overhang (1080 Roof)

Access: Track 6

Bd
Beeattitudes
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Climb small gully to finish on arete.
-
Shotguns Don't Kill Bees
Grade 19
5 Bolt
On the Lh end of the wall, ascend the arete, to finish at the Bd belay.
Ll
La-la Land
Grade 23
4 Bolt
Move oiff a ledge of the Lh end of the wall, climb to the rap stn.
FD
Flesh D-vice
Grade 25
5 Bolt
Located at the centre of the wall, climb through the bulge, and carry on through thin face climbing.
BE
Bicep d'Elan
Grade 22
Start at the big holre in the wall, move leftward to a small roo the up the trad pro groove.
-
Another night in the dogbox
Grade 23
Starts as for Bicep d'Elan to first bolt then breaks right past undercling and straight up wall. Through the roof jam crack to finish on the Intensive Scare belay.
-
Dread-full
Grade 28
8 Bolt
17m Start up th DC block, traverse leftwards then up rejoining DC on the arete.
DC
Dread Carefully
Grade 23, 24
11 Bolt
1. 15m Start off the Lh end of the block, traverse leftwards and around the arete. Climb wall veering right to belay ledge.
2. 12m From the belay ledge, acsend the overhanging arete.

Showing all routes 12 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 25 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 24 22 - 25
Fish%20wall

Right of the Wall of Thugs

Access: Track 6

DN
You're Either Dread or You're Not
Grade 28
11 Bolt
26m Start as for Dread Carefully. Go straight up the face through the roof finishing on the African Head Charge headwall
SLF
Smells Like Fish
Grade 26
7 Bolt
21m Start on Lh side of ledge. Veer rightwards to join FoH with an independent finish rihgtwards after the 6th bolt.
AHC
African Head Charge
Grade 25
10 Bolt
21m Off the starting blocks for a few routes, traverse leftwards towards and then above the african head, finishing on the head wall above.
JB
Jive Bombing
Grade 24
10 Bolt
23m Use the starting saquence of AHC, move on to the headwall to the left of SLF.
FH
Fish on Heat
Grade 25
8 Bolt
21m Using the AHC Lh traverse start, move upwards at the 3rd bolt. Carry on through the bulge and move rightwards to the rap stn.
FC
Fish & Chips
Grade 26
7 Bolt
21m Using the same start as AHC move striaght through at the 2nd bolt, then links in with SLF for the crux and finish.
GB
The Good Bad & the Dread
Grade 23
4 Bolt
13m Follow the red streaked face from the AHC start.
SS
Subliminal Seducer
Grade 24
21m The red corner to the right of FoH.
-
American Spoon
Grade 22
5 Bolt
13m Use the chickenhead start, and finish at the rap stn at 2/3 hieght.
-
Slaprobatics
Grade 24
6 Bolt

-
System of the Down
Grade 24
Start under a bulge. Traverse leftwards up to the thread runner, and grunty finish.
-
unnamed
Grade 25
4 Bolt
R of System of the Down on the far R of the Fish Wall

Showing all routes 13 routes total Time 15 min

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 22 - 25
Rinho%20wall1

A small wall situated in the shade of a few totara trees.

Access: Via Track 6

-
Gobble Gobble Yum Yum
Grade 19
4 Bolt
13m
NZ
The Great New Zealand Clobbering Machine
Grade 22
13m Starts just left of chimney, finishes just right of the arete.
-
Frankie Goes to Hollywood
Grade 16
Starts right of the chimney. goes through overhung wall with crack.
-
Desperate Jan
Grade 15
Corner crack.
FR
Feeding the Rat
Grade 21
4 Bolt
15m Follow Lh side of arete. Move right around 3rd bolt, then veer back leftwards. Includes a mono move.
Ro
Rhinoceros
Grade 19
4 Bolt
14m Starts left of the totara, as for FtR, moves rightwards.
BE
Black Eyed Beauty
Grade 23
4 Bolt
12m Starts right of totara, move leftwards at loose flake, and rightwards to finish at ledge.
BW
Berlin Wall
Grade 26
4 Bolt
12m The face on the Rh side of the wall, to the left of the TGtL Arete.
GL
The Ground's the Limit
Grade 22
3 Bolt
12m A small flowstone arete.
-
Fridge Magnet
Grade 24
4 Bolt
Left of the arete
-
Unicorn Massacre
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Cruxy route left of Beast from the Undergrowth and R of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt as the first crux is below it.
-
The Beast From the Undergrowth
Grade 22
Around corner to the right of FM. Trad gear in horizontal crack, then through an overhang.
-
Pregnant Paws
Grade 20
4 Bolt
This route is half way between The Beast and the Red Wall.

Downhill from The Grounds the Limit

-
Stamp Collection
Grade 22
2 Bolt

-
Trust Me
Grade 20
2 Bolt

-
Want some Candy?
Grade 17
2 Bolt

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

The far end of the crag,

Access: Track 7

-
Redgate
Grade 16
4 Bolt

-
The Red Hand of Ulster
Grade 19
4 Bolt

-
Bored of the Rings
Grade 19
4 Bolt

-
Fraulein Foreskin
Grade 23
4 Bolt

Showing all routes 133 routes total 10 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 129 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
PoharaCathedral%20rk

A set of crags along the road betwwen Takaka and Abel Tasman NP

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 10 0 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Shagadelic

Small atmospheric crag 50m west of Abel Tasman Monument - the closest you may get to sea cliff climbing in Golden Bay

Access: Pohara: The Shagadelic Buttress Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path). To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope. To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea. AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY.

Attribution: from Simon Middlemass

-
A Dream of White Shags
Grade 18
7 Bolt
Currently the leftmost line of bolts on the main Shagadelic wall. Climbable at high tide with alternate approach to crag. Vertical wall followed by an airy overhanging traverse left and up to anchor. Don't climb here during nesting season (Summer?).
-
Fancy a Shag on the Beach ?
Grade 22
6 Bolt
14m Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top.
-
The Shag Who Spied Me
Grade 21
6 Bolt
15m Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also.
-
International Man of Mystery
Grade 19
10 Bolt
22m From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out.
-
A Date With Feliicity Shagwell
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish.
-
More rad than trad
Grade 20
3 Bolt
10m Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall.
-
Sunset Cruise
Grade 17
4 Bolt
Walk right through the hole beyond More Rad Than Trad to find a neat little overhanging orange wall around the corner. Climb the lay-back flake starting left below it.
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Huntleyand palmers copy1

The Diamond/wafer shaped rock betwwen the road and the sea.

Attribution: paynesford.blogspot.com, Simon Middlemass

-
Harry Pothead gets the philosophers stoned
Grade 17
6 Bolt
12m Drive past Cathedral Rock at Pohara towards the Abel Tasman Monument. A small buttress of rock rises from the left and terminates level with the A.T carpark. Climb is on the north side of this rock. Access is down bank on the Huntley and Palmers wafer side (it is about 100m from H& P). slightly steep with big holds.
-
The Mermaids Tale
Grade 14

1a
It is what it is
Grade 20
3 Bolt
The new, left most, route on the Wafer. Short with good cruxy moves.
1
All I ever Wanted was Dialysis
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Steep with no let up.
2
Go Side On
Grade 23
4 Bolt
Goes up the middle of the slab.
3
Neptunes Gift
Grade 21
5 Bolt

4
Concrete Rain
Grade 21
4 Bolt
Start on the Rh-side of the wall upto the arete and onto the upper face. There is a variant that goes to NG rap chains.

Showing all routes 12 routes total Time 5min 10 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Cathedral%20rk1

The big wall past the cement works

Attribution: http://paynesford.blogspot.co.nz/

-
Joe Dirt
Grade 14
The deep cleft chimney on the left of the face. An adventurous, i.e. bold excursion on poor natural pro until an old chain then move right to finish up the last two bolts of Dirty Old Men.
-
Dirty Old Men
Grade 15
Start in the crack behind the tree. Follow winding groove to the R of chimney.
SG
Stairway of the Gods
Grade 17
9 Bolt
Up thew scaley yellow rock, move L-wards, thenup to the bulge before the top.
Ab
Ambrosia
Grade 18
8 Bolt
26m Start at the grey pillar and ascend the centre of the wall, veering R-wards.
Tk
Tusk
Grade 17
8 Bolt
Start to the R of A. Trend R-wards up the wall.
SB
Stella Blue
Grade 18
9 Bolt
30m Start R of Tusk to meet Tusk at the top.
BM
Black Marigolds
Grade 17
25m A direct start to TFtS
TS
Tales from the Sea
Grade 15
8 Bolt
Straight forward after the low down crux.
SW
Something Wicked
Grade 18
8 Bolt
Carry out the reachy start, then climb halfway up the face to the finish.
WP
White Pointer
Grade 16
5 Bolt

GK
Gecko Crack
Grade 17
On the small wall to the R. Climb the thin crack to the scalloped groove.
-
The Jagged Edge
Grade 18
9 Bolt
30m The Tower, Cathedral Wall. Climbs the striking arete on the west edge of the tower that faces the Hangover Wall/Dr Livingstone. Access from the same track to Dr Livingstone and Cosmic Wunder Krunch walls. Climb starts from the LH side of the Cosmic Wunder-Krunch wall.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 3 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

The tunnel were the road runs through. Above and around the north portal

-
Teaching Aliens English
Grade 15
6 Bolt
The Lh Slab route
-
Shooting Star
Grade 18
7 Bolt
30m The central route
-
Making Tracks
Grade 19
5 Bolt
The Rh route. satart in the ditch.
-
Dr Gnarley and the Big Burn
Grade 22
9 Bolt
The Lh- edge of the tunnel. Be careful!!
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21

This wall was bolted as a group learning venue for outdoor education groups, etc. Compact, private, sheltered and with good access. South-west of the Cathedral Rock tower.

Access: Go to Cathedral Rock. Follow the good track past the right of the crag. Follow the track past the tower, but between the tower and Dr Livingstone Wall, that will take you to a secluded crag.

-
The Jagged Edge
Grade 18
9 Bolt
30m Start 2m right of the corner up the knobby stuff. Gain the arête above and follow it.
-
Bullseye
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Start up the corner, around the bulge and up to anchors on a ledge. Orange rock.
-
Organic Cocoa Nibs
Grade 17
6 Bolt
Bolted with the novice in mind.
-
Hello Ground
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Great line.
-
Hanahlujah
Grade 17
5 Bolt

-
Before the Rain
Grade 14
3 Bolt

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 5min

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25

Vertical lower wall capped by large overhang opposite the Cosmic Wonder Krunch Wall.

Access: Go to Cathedral Rock. Follow the good track past the right of the crag. Follow the track past the tower, but between the tower and Dr Livingstone Wall, that will take you to a secluded crag.

-
Fate Smiled
Grade 18
This climb starts off a pile of rocks just below the arête at the left end of the Hungover Wall. This is at the top of the Deep Throat gully. Start left of the first bolt. Belay on top of the Flowstone.
-
Destiny Laughed
Grade 20
5 Bolt
Starts from the anchor at the top of Fate Smiled. Steep and committing.
-
From Mystery to Mystery
Grade 20
8 Bolt
Starts up a shallow overhanging scoop right of Fate Smiled.
-
Hair of the Dog
Grade 19
6 Bolt
Start a few meters right of From Mystery to Mystery up a scoop. Climb up past the cool flow feature to the overlap. Then leftward before heading back right and up to anchor.
-
Andys Pants
Grade 17
3 Bolt
a little run out after last bolt.on main wall under over hang. Access route for Hangman and Bender on the upper wall.
-
Hangman
Grade 22
Start from an anchor 3m left of the Andy's Pants anchor.
-
Bender
Grade 22
Starts from the Andy's Pants anchor.

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 5

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

At the back of the Dr Livingstone Wall is a shady chasm. Continue past the Kozmic Wunderkruch wall

Access: Drive through the archway and park near the Port access. A track starts on the inside of the bend towards the tower. This leads to: 1) Dr Livingstone Wall 2) The Kozmik wunderkruch Wall The Deep Throat area.This is the area on the big overhanging wall and dark gully

-
Ode To The Muffin Man
Grade 22
4 Bolt
The following climbs are on the opposite side of the Gully from Fate Smiled on some Red rock. Start to the right of first bolt.
-
Clunge
Grade 27
4 Bolt
The next two climbs are opposite the main cliff on the other side of the gully. To the left of Muffin Man shares last bolt and anchor.

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 5 min 15 m

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Continue past the Kozmik Wunderkruch and Deep Throat areas then trend up and left to a small slightly overhanging wall with two routes

Access: See above. Park on the road and access as for Deep Throat

-
Power Horse
Grade 23
4 Bolt
start on red boulder and up to ledge then drift right to 3rd and up
-
Random Pussy
Grade 19
3 Bolt
follow tape past muffin man 50m. till u see Power horse .start up loose as boulder.

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 1

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Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21

TBA

Access: Right above the road.Park in the grassy area by the yacht club

-
Bang the Weasel
Grade 15
Start on a pedestal and ascend the trad route to the L of SS.
-
Shaolin Style
Grade 19
6 Bolt
Climbs the face to the left of the obvious arete traversing R towards the arete in the upper part.
-
Doom
Grade 19
5 Bolt
Climb the wall to the R of the arete veering R-wards to a ledge then head back L-wards to the rap stn. Treat the fixed thread with care - it may be the original !!
-
Doomed
Grade 19
Line of bolts about 4m R of arete up a nice looking wall. Head left after 3rd bolt of . Take a sling finshes up scoop Re bolted 6/14
-
Krissys Magic Cookies
Grade 20
6 Bolt
16m Left of Nek minute .
-
Nek Minute
Grade 23
6 Bolt
17m Climbs start at the back of the alcove. Follow hangers to the left of Totally Roasted.
-
Totally Roasted
Grade 22
6 Bolt
18m Up glue in ring bolts in the center of the back wall, drifts slightly right.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

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Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25

Walk along the road towards Port Tarakohe from the left end of the Seagrass Wall (see map) about 50 metres. At the huge yellow overhang over the road scramble up the bank and follow the cliff north for approx 100m until you come to a small gully between the cliff and a detached block. There is some interesting red rock and stalactites here.

-
The Prow
Grade 21
5 Bolt
15m About 30m towards Tarakohe (left) of the main routes at Trench Town is a separate buttress easily seen and accessed from the pullout near the corner.Phil has continued his fascination with the steep & juggy climbing.
-
Miss Precocius Tongue
Grade 19
4 Bolt
Start off on the flat ground at the top of the gully, L of the red flowstone. Climb up the wall and arete to a small roof.
-
Oogga Chaakka
Grade 22
5 Bolt
Start L of the red flowstone. Climb following the yellow groove through the steepest part of the wall.
-
Soul Shakedown Party
Grade 22
4 Bolt
4B Right of Oogga Chakka. Start part way up the small gully—boulder to a high first bolt then up to the roof crux.
-
Kaya
Grade 19
4 Bolt
4B Right -most line and the first you come to. Start on some slightly dubious rock at the bottom of the gully. Things steepen to a final groove. 4B and fixed thread.
-
Dusty Rhoads
Grade 18
6 Bolt
50m past kaya on big back wall heading towards seagrass.

Showing all routes 30 routes total Time 5min 5 m

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Sports - 30 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Copy%20of%20black%20veg%20%26%20bo%20peep

The wall just before the old cement silos and harbour

Attribution: http://paynesford.blogspot.co.nz/

GA
Guardian Angel
Grade 19
3 Bolt
10m Wander up yellow rock, move L-wards at 3rd B.
-
Shotgun Therapy
Grade 21
5 Bolt
Veer R-wards to link up with Hig at the last bolt.
-
Hymenicegirl
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Rh-side of the biege streak.
-
X Factor
Grade 20
4 Bolt
5 bolts. Start about a metre right of HymenIce Girl. Climb directly up; fun climbing with a stiff little crux.
-
R for Roger
Grade 15
4 Bolt
3-4m left of the corner, ascend to a ledge, then climb through bulges to the final roof.
-
Love Triangle
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Climb the crack in the corner.
-
Are You Pleased to See Me or is that a Pickaxe in Your Pocket?
Grade 16
3 Bolt
On a wall directly under a rata tree.
-
Unzip a Banana
Grade 15
3 Bolt
Start on a stepped corner on the Lh-side of the main wall, finishing R of a large tree.
-
Yoghurt on yer Tackle
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Start below the cave and climb up the Lh-side of the face.
HG
Hair on a G String
Grade 17
4 Bolt
Start at R trending crack, and go up R edge of the cave.
-
Woosh
Grade 18
4 Bolt
Start just R of the faint arete, climb veering R-wards.
-
Thrust
Grade 16
4 Bolt
Starts 2m L of the wide crack. Climbs through bulge going L-wards to yellow bands.
ST
Suck on This
Grade 17
4 Bolt
2nd pitch of Thrust, ascends to the top of the wall. Loose!
-
Hi, Big Boy
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Use the same start as Thrust. climb R-wards through the bulge.
-
Up Against the Wall M.F.
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Start on the stepped crack, climb straight up.
-
Some Like it Hot
Grade 15
5 Bolt
Climbs up the Rh-side of the wall skirting around the vegetation.
-
Curiosity
Grade 17
7 Bolt
Climb the arete left of Pussy Dancing
PD
Pussy Dancing
Grade 16
5 Bolt
On the next wall right go to the prow. Climb up center/Left-side of the prow through 2 bulges.
FT
Franklins Tower
Grade 16
8 Bolt
26m Climbs up the Rh-side of the prow. then finishes up a crack line in the upper part. Had a bell installed we made from an old fire extinguisher and it's customary to ring when you reach the top.
-
Brain Dead
Grade 13
3 Bolt
15m R of FT, goews up white rock, finishing beneath a small roof.
-
Ruby Tuesday
Grade 17
3 Bolt
5m R of BD, beside a rotten pillar.
-
Hummingbird
Grade 17
3 Bolt
The centeral route, on good holds.
-
Sweet Jane
Grade 15
3 Bolt
Rh-side of the wall, beside the arete.
-
Menage d trois
Grade 10
6 Bolt
The bolted corner/ crack.
-
First the Poetry then..
Grade 13
5 Bolt
Slab route to the R of the corner.
ST
Sausage Time
Grade 18
6 Bolt
The 2nd pitch of FtPt. Goes up the arete.
RP
Rumpy Pumpy
Grade 21
15m R of FtPt. Climb a steep slab through a bulge.
JM
Joker Man
Grade 20
11 Bolt
30m Starts just up from an arete beneath a Rh-leaning arch. Climb out R-wards around the corner then go up!
-
Malinki
Grade 14
1 Bolt
On the uphill side of nipple rock.
-
Nipple
Grade 16
1 Bolt
On nipple Rock to the R of the arete.

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 5min

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Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 26 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Whywallweb

Why wall is the steep wall left of the Bo-Peep slab bounded by As good as it gets (21) on the left and In your face (21) on the right.

Attribution: http://paynesford.blogspot.com/. Simon Middlemass

1
As Good as it Gets
Grade 21
8 Bolt
20m
3
Why?
Grade 24
4 Bolt

2
Why not?
Grade 26
6 Bolt
15m If you were confused on where the routes go, there is now another variation to confuse you. Takes the first 3 bolts of Why? then blasts up the headwall to the left of the original route past another 3 bolts.
4
Animated Suspension
Grade 26
6 Bolt
15m Another Rich Turner special.From the first bolt of Why? - just right of the arete route As good as it gets (21), diagonal right, crossing two cruxy roofs then up to the big scoop.
-
Just Cause
Grade 26
10 Bolt
Bit of an endurofest. Currently 10 bolts but it may finish lower. Starts up Animated Suspension then breaks right at the 4th bolt and then up via the rail at the top of Snatch, and on up through scroggly shit that falls off a lot currently finishing at the belay of Status Anxiety
5
Animated Snatch
Grade 26
7 Bolt
15m Starts up Snatch for its first 5B then joins the last two bolts of Animated Suspension to include the cruxes of both.
6
Snatch
Grade 25
7 Bolt
15m Start below and left of the Cracking up/Status anxiety ramp. Steep and juggy.Continue slightly left and up to the belay.

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 0.5 min 5 m

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Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Bopeeproutes

One of the more overhung "slabs". Right hand end of the Seagrass Wall area.

Access: Roadside. Park in one of the limited pull out bays.

Attribution: http://paynesford.blogspot.co.nz/

-
Status Anxiety
Grade 18
7 Bolt
Climb up LH-leaning crack/ramp. Superceded existing Al Ritchie route. Usually someone needs to 2nd the route as it diagonals and the lower off is down the steep wall to the left.
-
Leftist
Grade 21
10 Bolt
Start up Status Anxiety for 2 bolts then head straight up the left end of Bo Peep
-
Coup de Grace
Grade 21
4 Bolt
12m Start beside the crack, and ascend the wall.
-
Ledgend
Grade 21
10 Bolt
Climb Coup de grâce to just below the belay. Move left then finish up Leftist.
-
Coup d'etat
Grade 22
9 Bolt
Climb Coup de grâce, then continue straight up.
-
Honour and Obey
Grade 21
4 Bolt
This new line on the left of the wall heads directly up the faint groove right of the first bulge of Coup de Grace (which heads up and left) and has a tricky hidden hold towards the top.
-
Vexatious Litigant
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Climb the mottled rock.
-
Aledged Perpetrator
Grade 22
7 Bolt
Climb Vexatious Litigant, then continue upwards. Can also be done as an extension to Honour and Obey.
-
Flexestentialism
Grade 22
5 Bolt
Start on the Lh-side of the crack, and climb the wall.
-
Not Given Lightly
Grade 24
7 Bolt
18m Just R of F, finishes on a higher ledge.
-
Supercharger
Grade 23
3 Bolt
10m Start on a small ledge, climb to the anchors in a mottled black area.
-
PM Tricks
Grade 14
2 Bolt
On a metre wide prow, just R of Bo Peep Slab.
-
Woof Woof
Grade 19
4 Bolt
20m R. Climb up on jugs up a wall through a roof, clip the anchors on the lip.
-
Pink Bits
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Somewhere past WW.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 5 m

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Corner store both climbs

Obvious open corner at the corner after you pass the Twilight Zone and before the Bo Peep Slab. A track has been cut and heads up from the corner

Attribution: http://paynesford.blogspot.com/ Simon Middlemass

-
Dark Chocolate
Grade 17
4 Bolt
Up the centre of the clean gray slab around the corner from Magnum Gold.
-
Magnum Gold
Grade 18
7 Bolt
Scramble the large crack on the left past 1st bolt to gain the rotten ledge. Climb the steep orange wall just left of the big hole.
-
Open for Business
Grade 18
4 Bolt
15m Left hand side 4 bolts and chain, starts under the over hang then follow the crack.Continuous with a bit of everything.
-
Who ate all the pies
Grade 15
5 Bolt
15m Right hand side - 5 bolts and chain.Belay bolt at the bottom of the route.Nicely spaced bolts with good clipping holds.

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 2 2 m

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A small red wall opposite The Twighlight Zone below the road near the water.

Access: Find an easy way down from the road or walk along the beach from the Pohara Hall

-
Sweet Surrender
Grade 19
2 Bolt
The Lh route of the Count Duckular Wall.
-
Tigerlily
Grade 18
2 Bolt
The climb to the R of SS, on the Count Duckular Wall.

Showing all routes 13 routes total Time 1 min

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Sports - 13 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

The first big cliff after Pohara Valley Rd (the corner just after the hall)

-
Big Legs, Tight Skirt
Grade 19
8 Bolt
On the left side of the steep face overlooking the sea to the left of the access track . Start on the big flakes, and tackle a small roof.
-
Taonga
Grade 21
7 Bolt
Start up a juggy face 6m R of Big Legs,Tight Skirt then move R-wards to and then around the overhung arete. Needs good rope management.
-
Three headed Devil dog
Grade 23
7 Bolt
Starts to the R of Taonga at the entrance to the zone and shares its last 2 bolts
-
Going, Going Gone
Grade 21
6 Bolt
Climb onto the block. Step across onto the wall and climb the face.
-
Persian Princess
Grade 20
Line of glue in bolts. Be careful as there is risk of hitting ledges due to bolt placements
-
Quicksilver
Grade 14
4 Bolt
On the Lh-side of the back wall.
-
Chastity Belt
Grade 16
9 Bolt
At the centre of the back wall. A long route that ascends through the bulges.
-
Space Cadet
Grade 15
6 Bolt
A meter R of CB. Climbs over the bulges, R of a small tree.
-
Golden Bells
Grade 20
Start with a small roof, climb close to the vegetation.
-
Log-a-rhythm
Grade 13
Start R of a grassy ledge. Climb past overhung flakes to ledge.
-
Log-n-head
Grade 15
3 Bolt
2m R of Log-a-ryhthm. L of the prominant overhang.
-
Astral Weaks
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Climb the wall L of the yellow rock, ascending to the overhang.
-
Trick or Treat
Grade 20
6 Bolt
Climb up the yellow rock and through the large overhang.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

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Just on the edge of Pohara. A fairly dark and gloomy spot that has the honour of probably being the closest climbs to a cafe that I can think of in NZ. The "Penguin" cafe at Pohara and the nearby store should provide all the sustainance that one requires. The Lair is located about 150m past the "Penguin" when heading to the main climbing areas from Poara near the band rotunda. It is the large block on the hill side of the road. The slab above the road has been climbed but should be left alone due to proximity to the road.

-
Redback
Grade 17
6 Bolt
Starts up the steep wall at the Pohara (west) end of the boulder right next to the road. Follows the arête in the upper sections. Try and not drop rocks on the road.
-
White Spider
Grade 25
Overhanging back wall.Head up the dark gully and it is up on your left. Climb up onto the block opposite (access up rata vine corner on far side). Lean across to clip the first bolt. It seems to work best if you put a long draw on the 2nd bolt and unclip the first. Lunge left to a big hole at the top. Steep with some great moves.
-
Katipo
Grade 25
5 Bolt
This is around past the White Spider. It was put up by the lads from Mot. apparently has a very hard first clip.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 5 minutes 5 m

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Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 8 0 - 16
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V1 V0 - V1
Fossil%20pt

Short routes good rock. The rocks are a short walk out onto the spit behind the visitor centre. Being short and above sand, the venue is well suited to soloing, although options for natural protection exist. Lots of scope for new routes. All the existing routes start from the passage which splits the rocks, with the exception of Farewell Rib, which starts from the machair at the end of the passage and Brits Abroad which starts behind the smaller boulder adjacent to the main rocks.

Access: No idea if climbing is allowed, DOC administered.

Attribution: UKC member "Southern Man"

-
Brits Abroad
Grade 8
From the alley behind the boulder, climb the short steep face then the cracked gulley above.
-
Fossil Gully
Grade 6
Climb the stepped gully from the passage that splits the crag opposite Rhinoceros.
-
Stegasauros
Grade 8
From the grassy knoll, step left into the scoops and climb using the spikey arete on the left.
-
Rhinoceros
Grade V1
From the passage that splits the crag, climb rightwards on big jugs until a couple of hard pulls lead to the obvious horn.
-
Farewell Rib
Grade 14
From the grassy knoll, step high then climb the obvious aesthetic arete direct on good sidepulls. This route can be poorly protected with hard-to-place wires.

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 5-25 1 m

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Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16
Cable%20bay

Coastal climbing, both bolted and trad. Short routes (8-15m). All year round climbing, amazing views and has the benefit of beautiful swimming if it gets a little warm! The rock is not the most stable in the world so helmets are advisable. Scope for more 1st assents for those who are willing!!

Access: Coming from Nelson, take the main road north following signs for Picton. Just before Hira take the left, signposted Cable Bay. Eventually you'll arrive at the bay, park at the left end of the beach. The climbing is located on the left side of the bay looking out to sea. At low tide you can walk along the rocks, high tide means a short detour over the hill. After 5 mins the 1st slab is reached. About 14m high and 15m wide. Further round is the next area of climbing, reached easiest at low tide, with some of the climbing only accessable at low tide. The Sharks Tooth is the obvious feathure to aim for, sticking out over the sea. Beyond this is the Graveyard. Reached by gaining the top of the headland that has the Sharks Tooth on the end, and abseiling down the other side. A single bolt (age??) can be found on the far side, furthest away from the sea. It's suggested that this is backed up and an in-situ rope left, as once in the graveyard, the only dry way out it to climb. If kayaks are available, this is by far the best option, as its quicker, you can paddle straight into the Graveyard bay and leaves you with a bit more time to climb. Further along still is the free standing Millar Pinnicle.

-
Too Early to Monkey
Grade 15
14m The blocky slightly overhanging corner up the south east face ot the Millar Pinnicle
-
Knot The Sharks Tooth
Grade 16
14m the southern end of the Millar Pinnicle, climb the black slab to a large spike, then the bold slab above.
-
Can't Cable in a Corner
Grade 15
9m The obvious dark well protected corner.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 5 5 m

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Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 13 0 - 16
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16

1st area to be reached, 12-14m high slab containing a few easy bolted and trad routes.

Access: Walk along the left hand side of the bay, for approx 5 mins until a slab on the left is reached. Non tidal apart from the extreme of extreme high tides. Can get very hot in summer!!!

-
Z Crack
Grade 14
Prominent crack on left side of slab
-
Dendrite
Grade 16
2 Bolt
12m Climb onto ledge then high finger jug. Bolt for protection
-
Dogmatix
Grade 15
2 Bolt
12m Climb slab to right of bolts
-
Axon
Grade 12
Prominent diagonal crack
-
Myeline
Grade 13
Blocky face to finish on Axon