Alpine - 151 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ice - 24 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+
Sports - 16 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+

Includes Single Cone, Double Cone, Lake Alta, Telecom Tower, upper Wye Creek.

Showing all routes 23 routes total 2319 m

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Alpine - 15 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ice - 4 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2 3 - 4
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Double%3esingle%20coneSouth%20face%20single 0South%20single%20c 0

Good ice climbing on the South Face.

Mixed climbing on West Face.

Access: Access to the South face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the face. The face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle. Note that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.

Attribution: Some material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012. Edited and posted with permission.

Showing all routes 21 routes total

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Alpine - 13 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ice - 4 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2 3 - 4
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
South%20single%20cSouth%20face%20single

These slabs do not hold too many exciting options for winter climbing usually due to their lack of ice, however being very compact the rock is excellent for climbing on a hot summers day. There are plenty of potential projects and unexplored terrain here. On the ridge leading up to the summit of Single Cone you will find a small walled bivy. From the bivy follow a small ledge for 5m that overlooks the face. Here you will find the top of a bolted rappel line. This takes you to down to a point approximately 30m from the base of the face – directly above an obvious snow patch. Be careful on the second to last rap as its approx 61m. At some point, this will get fixed up but for now knot your ropes and be careful. The following two routes start here: The lower tier of the ice flow is equipped with a number of double bolt anchors that can be used for top roping and to enable an abseil descent to be made with one 60m rope.

Access: Access to the face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the face. The face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle. Note that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.

Attribution: Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012 (except for Barrett's Route). Edited and posted with permission.

97
$100 Whore
Grade 0
9 pitches. Start up a right facing gully system which leads into a series of short mixed corners. Follow this via steep snow/ice tending left towards ridge line. Exit via the upper headwall.
98
Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro
Grade 0
350m M5+. 8 pitches. Climbs the obvious steep corner/chimney system approximately 100m left of Touch Down. The crux of the route is on the lower two pitches up the chimney before the angle lies back slightly. Six more pitches at grade M3-M4 lead directly up to the ridge.
99
Single Cone South Face
Grade 0
Start up an obvious corner; to the left of the major left hand ramp that bisects the face. Continue up directly to cross the ramp and climb through several small overhangs, crux, before tending slightly left on easier ground. The lower face was clear of snow and was climbed on typically sound rock while the upper half was plastered in snow and ice and had to be climbed as mixed. On the upper face when the gradient eases tend slightly left and top out below & left of Stairway to Methven.
100
Only for Muppets
Grade 3
A short ice pitch which forms during good winters.
101
Touch Down
Grade 3
60m An absolute classic, and a must for the area which forms consistently every year. The top of the route is equipped with a double ring bolt abseil station for the descent and/or top roping.
102
Touch Down RHS
Grade 2
Right to left tending ice ramps that traverse into the top of the Touch Down flow.
-
Eclipse
Grade 0
125m a ‘large corner up above the right-hand side’ of Touch Down on the south face of Single Cone in the Remarkables, according to Ben. After climbing the ice to the start of the corner, the second and third pitches follow the corner system before the route veers left ‘through steep mixed ground’ to reach ‘the crest’ of a rock spur, which divides Touch Down’s waterfall ice.
103
Project
Grade 0
From top of Touch Down direct to the summit ridge.
104
South Face Classic
Grade 3
300m A great introduction to alpine climbing on the south face, which climbs the ice of Touch Down before following left tending snow ramps to the ridge. Has seen several retreats and at least one rescue. Solo first ascent.
105
Littlewood Route
Grade 0
5 Pitches. Follows a line climbers left of the rap line.
-
Barrett’s Route
Grade 18
5 pitches on the right-hand slabs. takes a line to the left of the abseil line used to get to the bottom of the face.
106
Got No Shoes
Grade 0
5 pitches. Slightly further to the right of the abseil line.
107
Finnigan Dare
Grade 0
250m 7 pitches. Start out up an easy corner to the right of the winter ice lines before traversing left along a wide ledge. Climb the wall above the ledge via an obvious slightly overhanging crack, crux, before continuing up predominantly slabby, but easier, ground above. Tend slightly right at the base of the final headwall to reach the top of the face.
108
Project
Grade 0
Rap, or walk, in to the base of the two rock routes above and start up wide corner system heading to the ridge. This could potentially form up in winter as well, although it will involve some long run out slab sections.
109
Project
Grade 0
Ascend the obvious right slanting chimney before continuing for approximately four pitches to the top of the face. It is unknown whether the line has been extended for the full height of the face.
110
Uncle Al’s Retro Rack
Grade 17
4 pitches. Pitch 1, start up right of the chimney and climb nice cracks until the slab steepens and gear runs out. Step right and continue up, more gear appears after 10- 15m, to a double bolt belay. The origin of which is unknown however it appears to be for top-roping on the nice slab right of this route. Follow ledge system right then straight up three more easy pitches to the ridge line. This four-pitch route begins on some nice cracks before climbing a slab to an existing double bolt belay, then moves right up a ledge system then to the ridge
111
Blame the Rabbit
Grade 18
Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.
112
Big Bouncing Boulders
Grade 17
Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.
113
Easy Shanking
Grade 0
170m On the far right of the slabs; exiting near the access gully. The route tends right for three pitches then straightens up for the final 20m.
-
4VLOLZ
Grade 0

97a
$50 F#ck
Grade 0

Showing all routes 2 routes total

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Double%3esingle%20cone 0

Mixed climbing on West to Southwest face of Single Cone

91
Fire in the Sky
Grade 0
250m Begin at the apex of the large scree/snow cone below the face and climb thinly iced mixed ground to the lower snow/ice field. Tend left and enter a steep and tight snow filled corner, which leads to a prominent snow patch at approximately half height on the face. Above this begin directly up steep slabs and through an overhang, crux, to where the climbing eases back slightly. Continue straight up to top out right of the prominent rock tower on the ridge leading to the summit of Single Cone.
92
Stairway to Methven
Grade 0
250m Start to the right of Fire in the Sky and follow the left tending snow ramp to the base of the steeper mixed ground. From here head directly up the edge of the rock spur between the west and south faces. When the gradient eases, gain the spur itself and continue up towards the top of the face. Tackle the final headwall via a large corner which is blocked at the top by several large chock stones. Climb under these to easier ground to finish just to the right of the normal descent gully leading from the summit of Single Cone.

Showing all routes 15 routes total

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Ice - 12 routes - avg. grade 4 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 25 17 - 21 26+
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

Rock climbing and ice climbing

Showing all routes 1 route total

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Above the main Wye Creek areas.

-
The Big Day Out
Grade 21

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-
Boss Combo
Grade 28

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 20-30 min 1000 m

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Main crag of the initial development.

-
Beyond the Pale
Grade 15
30m Start as for Alien Resurrection move R and follow R facing corner to anchor left of Bigger than Big.Originally climbed the 88 Chocolate Treats start then straight up the upper corner. Crux is a little bulge in the middle.

Showing all routes 12 routes total Time 2-3 hours 1500 m

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Ice - 12 routes - avg. grade 4 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+

The ice climbing area is at the head of Wye Creek, access from the Remarkables ski area.

Access: Access info in "Queenstown Rock, Ice and Mountains" guidebook.

Ice - 11 routes - avg. grade 4 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+
Wye ice topo 3

Main Area

1
Unknown
Grade 0

2
Quite Bent
Grade 5
60m 2 pitches
3
Why?
Grade 5
60m A classic. 2 30m pitches, or 1 60m pitch. First half is a great steep pumpy pillar. The 2nd half is a little easier, with a shorter but steeper hard bit.
4
Why Not?
Grade 4
WI4+. The blobs just right of Why?, finishing at the same halfway lower angled section. Then V-thread off, or finish as for Why?
5
Fear of Flying Pitch 1
Grade 4
25m The steep flow
6
The Iron Curtain Pitch 1
Grade 2
The lower-angled right-hand side. WI2+ or 3-.
7
The Iron Curtain Pitch 2
Grade 3
20m This is the name given to the entire upper tier left of Fear of Flying. Really it is at least 4 or 5 individual lines, which range from WI3 to WI4. Maybe the most popular route at Wye Creek is the left-hand most line, which is a nice WI3 pitch that starts steep and eases as you get higher. Double bolt belay on the left wall at about 20m. For the other lines, it's V-thread or walk off.
8
Upper Tier middle ice routes
Grade 4
15m Multiple lines form between routes 7 and 9. They're all WI3 or WI4. And are all good climbs.
9
Fear of Flying Pitch 2
Grade 4
A good steep pillar. The difficulties ease after about 10-15m and you can V-thread off. The climbing does continue for 50m or so to the top though.
10
Hot Water
Grade 0
20m You can use the three bolts on the right wall to climb the ice at the start, which doesn't always form. Two bolts for the rock moves through the roof to the left at top of ice then onto ice dagger and climb around this to belay on ice ledge above.
11
This Machine Kills Fascists
Grade 0
To the two bolts at start of steep wall is M7. Extension to top of crag has not been climbed.

The rarely formed ice on wall separated by a short snow field above and left of the established Left Side which is and extension of the main wall

-
VB & Vegemite
Grade 3
40m Thin ice on slabs then fun steps to belay under block 10m after angle eases. Very rarely forms and may have been climbed in the 80's or 90's
-
The Grand Traverse
Grade 0

Showing all routes 107 routes total 2200 m

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Alpine - 104 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 8 0 - 16
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 22 22 - 25
Telecom%20tower 1st%20sectionSms labelledTelecom%20tower4

This West facing crag offers a large number of short, easily accessible routes of a wide variety of difficulties. There is a long, continuous stretch of buttresses and gullies, which unfold all the way along to Double Cone. These have been split into several sections to help identification. High exposure and great views down to Lake Wakatipu.

Access: A ledge system, known as Queen's Drive, runs under this face. To access Queen's Drive walk to the top of the Shadow Basin Chair lift from the Remarkables Ski-field carpark. Climb west to saddle above. From here, a rising traverse to south accesses the start of Queens Drive. Sections are described from left to right.

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

First%20buttress

First thing you see from Queens Drive

Access: Access from Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

1
Unknown Crack
Grade 0
15m Short crack with good protection. A good route for someone wanting to get into dry tooling or summer trad
2
Warm Up Crack
Grade 0
15m Easy gully, around the corner and right of unknown crack
P
Project
Grade 0

-
Mixed Emotions
Grade 0
17m
Alpine - 7 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Second%20buttress

It has two sets of top rope anchors for dry tooling practice. No recorded routes to date. It has potential for several winter lines. The rock is quite mossy so will require a bit of brushing before any rock climbs can be enjoyed.

Access: Access from Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

4
Not So Fortunate
Grade 0
25m Steep crack with committing moves to DB belay LHS of buttress.
5
Force It
Grade 0, 0
1. 25m Climb right facing corner, tending left after half height. Double bolt belay
2. 25m Second pitch runs to the top of the buttress and a further double bolt belay
7
Ari-an Supremacy
Grade 0
'Ari-an Supremacy takes the obvious gully about 7metres to the right of 'Force It'. I believe it now has a bolted anchor just to the right of the first major chimney section. It's best climbed as a trad route, going through two chimneys to pop out onto a large belay ledge about 30 metres up. Beyond there, Ari-an Supremacy traverses the ledge, turning a block, and climbing a small arete to eventually top out on the ridge. While the second pitch is fairly easy, there's not a great deal of pro. All in all, I'd say it's closer to 60-70m all the way to the top.'
7b
Ari-an Retreat
Grade 0
60m a direct finish from the start of the second pitch of Arian Supremacy; Above the belay ledge at 30 metres, the route heads directly for a roof with ‘awesome hooks,’ and then towards ‘easier ground’ on snow to the double bolt belay.
6
Sam I Am
Grade 0
25m The steep roof crack between Force It, and Arian Supremacy. Pumpy moves lead up through the cracks and left to the belay of the first pitch of Force It
8
Learning to Lead
Grade 0, 0
1. 20m The right most crack and corner on the first buttress. Climb the corner on good protection to a double bolt belay.
2. 25m From the double bolt belay head up via a right facing corner to the top of the buttress. Belay from the ridge
9
Lovely Gully
Grade 0
35m Follow Gully tending right for 8m, through right facing corner. Belay in small alcove, DB Belay, or exit right to ridge -Joll. Left hand exit via wide crack (M4 variation) -Addis & Scott.
Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Afterglow%20buttressChockstone%20goulette

Access from Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

1
Sgian Dubh
Grade 0
90m The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams.
2
10. LHC
Grade 0
25m 25m to belay ledge or continue up left hand cracks to the top and Double Bolt Belay.
3
Afterglow
Grade 0
45m Start up a left facing corner. Can be climbed with or without the bolts as there is plenty of good traditional gear. The first ascensionists have asked for the bolts to remain, however if you want one of the best grade 17 traditional routes in the country climb the route as a single 45m pitch on gear. Take twin ropes, a selection of small wires, small Camalots and doubles of regular Camalots to #4.
4
Ground Rush
Grade 0, 0
1. Start up right hand arête before tending slightly left as you get higher on the face. Very run out in the lower three quarters and could use a clean. If you don’t feel comfortable at the grade, this is a good one to avoid.
2. There is a rap station at the top to take you back to the anchors of Afterglow.
5
Project
Grade 0
Thin seam and crack just around the arête of Ground Rush.
6
Chockstone Goulette
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. 40m LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight gully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress
2. 30m head straight up short pitch.
3. 30m Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete
7
Cold Fear
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. 30m Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove
2. 30m Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete
3. 30m follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully.
-
Cold Fear
Grade 0
90m Right hand Chimney system in between the Afterglow Buttress and Bolt Buttress. Follow the right of the two cracks, Steep moves 20-20m P1, then M4 up to ledge. Final pitch M4-5.
8
Easy Pickings
Grade 0
30m 30m. Up right- facing corner system to Double Bolt Belay.
Alpine - 6 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Bolt%20buttress

Access from Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

-
Cold Fear - See afterglow buttress for info
Grade 0
RH steep Chimney
-
15. McFanny Goes Top Roping
Grade 0
30m Straight up through overlap then onto easy slab that protects with good Camalots in breaks. Take a full range of sizes from small to large.
-
16. I'm a Pussy
Grade 0
30m Start 5m left of Angel Cakes under small roof. Move up and right then back left to gain a crack near the arête. Continue up this and then cross the arête onto the slab of McFanny Goes Top Roping. Be careful not to fall off before you reach the first placement.
-
17. Angel Cakes
Grade 0
20m Equipped with 5 bolts and gear to #4 Camalot. Climb to bolted belay at the top of buttress.
-
18. Sustained Loss of Traction
Grade 0
Equipped with 5 bolts & natural gear. Another good traditional project bolted for the masses. Bolted & cleaned by Al Uren. Start up the crack with a few bolts then head left to join up with the top of Angel Cakes.
-
19. Project
Grade 0
Start as per any of the previous routes and continue up the easy ridge to the summit ridge of the Telecom Tower.
Alpine - 14 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Saturday%20morning%20special climbnz2Blow%20upScapegoat area

Access from Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

20
Number One Gully
Grade 0

20 A
M4
Grade 0
50m
-
The Aussie Potato Farmer
Grade 0
40m 'overhanging crack [straight] off the deck. Its in an alcove not far left of saturday morning special. Good hooks. Then into ice and snow after pulling through. One more tricky step. Followed by low angled corner no pro. Snow on slab on right and good footholds on left side.'
-
20.5: No Holds Beard
Grade 0, 0
1. Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow.
2. Head on up gully for 5m then move left on ledge below fist rock step, continue up angling left (limited gear), finishing under big roof and break in arete.
21
Saturday Morning Special
Grade 0
150m Small steeps and snow gullies a great introductory route to climbing on the West Face of the Telecom Tower.
22
Un-Named
Grade 0
Just Right of SMS. Bouldery move over chock stone.
24
Ben Dover
Grade 0
15m 1 short pitch leading up to the ledge that Recessionary Downgrade and Blow Up start from.
-
Chens Route
Grade 0
10m A short pitch right of Ben Dover. Somewhere between M4-5. The crack is step but short and the difficulties will be over quickly.
23
Recessionary Downgrade
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 35m Walk up sloping ledge towards the obvious steep crack of Blow Up. Start in the left-hand corner.
2. 35m Pitch two heads towards an obvious off-width crack. Place your biggest cam high in this crack then down climb 2m and out 2m onto the black slab. Climb this direct for 5m until you reach another crack. Start breathing again and continue upwards. Quite sustained for the grade.
3. 50m More climbing.
4. 25m More climbing.
5. 20m Continue to top and walk off.
26
Blow Up
Grade 0
35m Up very steep hand crack on great holds with excellent gear. Double bolt belay with 30m rap to the ground. An excellent route which is much steeper than it looks.
-
Tri Nations
Grade 0
150m just to the right of Recessionary Downgrade; ascends ‘a series of corners’ on the right hand side of a ‘prominent [arête] before reaching the crest and following it for the final pitch;’ Three pitches.
-
He rangi mokopuna
Grade 0
Corner line on wall left of scapegoat gully.
28
Scape Goat
Grade 0
Gully system after prow of recessionary downgrade, just before ridge.
29
Growling Dog
Grade 0
Start up Gully of Scapegoat and move right under roof crack.
Alpine - 29 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Telecom tower li5Ttower lim4 cTtower li 2Li upper3 1Stone%20free

Telecom Tower's Left Hand Side. Wall between gullys of Minge Kunt, on left, to Friday's Fool and the Red Wall on the right.

Access: From Queens Drive

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

-
29. Growling Dog
Grade 0

-
Gout Route
Grade 0

1
Minge Kunt
Grade 0
150m Climb the obvious gully before you reach the Telecom Tower. Mainly on moderately angled snow with several small rocky mixed steps.
2
Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt
Grade 0

3
Primal Scream
Grade 0
200m
4
Fringe Encounter
Grade 0
150m This route started 5m below and just right of Minge Kunt and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall. Although the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right. Once regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of Minge Kunt, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging.
5
Stone Free
Grade 0
40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of a flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of flat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home).
6
E.T Goes Home
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 140m Start up the right tending crack, towards the overhanging corner belay 10m above the overhang.
2. Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack to ledge, belay on the right, under corner Double Bolt Belay.
3. Pitch 3, 35m, up corner then traverse right through chimney block (rap bolts on back of block don’t belay here) climb arête and crack 3m up to ledge (or go the chickens version and scramble around further right) belay off bollard.
4. Pitch 4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle. Rap anchor is on the left hand side.
7
Couch Surfing
Grade 0, 0
1. 50m Corner system 15m right of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up slightly chossy rock into excellent grade 16 left facing corner to finish at bolted anchor of the second pitch of E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works.
2. 30m Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney. Climb this then into steep face tending slightly left along crack line, take Camalots to #4, finish at double bolt anchor same as rap point for E.T Goes Home. The slab on the second pitch needs a good brush.
10
Boys Don't Cry
Grade 0
150m Start up the system works then head toward the obvious chimney with a chock stone high up. From here continue to the top of the buttress.
8
The System Works
Grade 0
35m From a ledge part way along State of the Nation, head up clear, steep chimney, climbing out around chock stone and finish at the same bolted belay as the last pitch of Couch Surfing. Use the 2nd rap anchor for E.T. Goes Home. Can be climbed from the ground, starting up Couch Surfing or by traversing in from the right.
9
State of the Nation
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. 45m Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI.
2. 35m Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall.
3. 75m Right hand corner exiting snowfield.
13
Golden Potato
Grade 0

OD
Overdrive
Grade 0
155m
11
Los Indignados
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. 70m Look for a cairn at the base of a hand crack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before pulling onto ledge.
2. Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then move right and up left facing corner on great rock.
3. Pitch 3: 21, 20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m below the rap anchor step right around arête to good gear and easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using micro cams 21).
11d
Los Indignados Direct
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress.
2. Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor.
3. From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes. Flaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot)
12
Flaming Gerbil
Grade 0
60m
CISOI
Can I Sit On It
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 150m 5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy left tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6.
2. Pitch 2, 35m, up clear corner grade 15.
3. Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner for 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high on the right hand side.
4. Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the base of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows the right hand corner.
5. Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via steep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep finger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so the pitch finished up on the left of the crack.
6. Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt Belay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short belay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here to the ground.
-
44. Project
Grade 0
Right of Los Indignados up a black and yellow corner on good rock but with limited gear
-
45. Project
Grade 0
corner system leading all the way to summit ridge
-
31. Project
Grade 0
Up right hand side of Minge Cunt heading towards the double bolt anchor of E.T. Goes Home. From here you can continue another pitch or two of easy corner climbing to the summit ridge.
-
35. Project
Grade 0
Start right of E.T Goes Home directly under large roof. Follow the thin seam on micro wires, small Camalots and knifeblades. Then, take a deep breath, heel hook the roof and exit up the top of pitch 1 on E.T Goes Home. Most likely somewhere between M7- M9.
-
37. Project
Grade 0
Up the 50m long corner system to the first double bolt anchor of E.T Goes Home. If you are bold continue directly above the bolted anchor via the overhanging arête (no bolts please, this is a traditional project).
-
Alternate start Can I Sit on It
Grade 0
15m Look for the double bolt belay of Can I Sit on It. Directly below this head up steep overhanging ground for a short burly pitch.
13
Backpfeifengesicht
Grade 0

CW
Coddiwomple
Grade 0

TL
Thug Life
Grade 0

15
Any man dies with a clean sword
Grade 0
120m The big chimney and corner system (leftmost) corner system above the snow patch above los indignados direct
NC
Night Crawlers
Grade 0

Showing all routes 17 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Alpine - 14 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 8 0 - 16
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 22 22 - 25
Fridays%20foolRed%20wall 0Right%20red%20wall clearances%20wall

Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.

Access: Along Queens Drive.

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

-
Half Century Celebration
Grade 0
60m ‘fairly run out’ direct start to the left of Fridays Fool, limited gear, thin ice made some sections possible, 'a couple of spots with a minimum 10m run out between gear.’
54
Fridays Fool
Grade 0
200m
56
Book of Fools
Grade 0
80m Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.
57
Covfefe
Grade 0, 0
1. 30m Starts 10m left of book of Fools in snow gully section 2 pitches up Fridays Fool. Right facing corner 2 cracks left of book of fools corner.
2. 25m Up a thin pick seam to roof/corner/flake feature. Absolute stonker of a pitch.
55
Fridays Fool Right Hand Exit
Grade 0
Branches right during the third pitch and angles up onto the big ledge below the Telecom Tower, before traversing right again to finish up to the left of the Clearances (face).
50
Party Line
Grade 0

46
Under Pressure
Grade 0
Follows a thin crack up the centre of the Red Wall on natural protection. Take gear from 00 Friend to #4 Camalot with small wires, no pitons are required now that the crack has been cleaned. Natural belay.
48
Under Pressure extended
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 25m Pitch 1, M8, 25m.
2. 12m M6+, 12m. Short pitch up and right followng bolts to DBA.
3. 40m Pitch 3, M5, 40m. Up cracks to left of anchor, then corner to left of roof.
4. 50m Pitch 4, M5, 50m. Up crest
5. 35m Pitch 5, M5+, 35m. Up crest.
6. 20m Pitch 6, M4, 20m
7. 50m Pitch 7, M6, 50m From crest of ridge, traverse left on ledge and climb offwidth to left of tower.
49
Project
Grade 0

51
Double Happy
Grade 22
70m
52
Tom Thumb
Grade 0
2 pitches. The line finishes at the top of Red Wall and requires a 60m rappel to the ground. The crux is on the lower pitch and is followed by a nice M4 corner crack to some run out slab climbing, before veering left at the top of the crack to finish at Red Wall rappel station.
53
Romper Stomper
Grade 15
30m
47
Burn, Baby, Burn
Grade 0
70m Starts out up the arête from the top of Romper Stomper.
62
Fastest Indian/Indian Summer
Grade 0
200m
63
Indian Summer Variant
Grade 0
A steep hand crack variation to the original line. Unclimbed in winter.
57
Project
Grade 0
There are two good looking crack lines just left of Book of Fools which could be linked into from the top of the first pitch of the original line.
58
Project
Grade 0
Left side of the face up 5m no gear then reach a good thin seam direct to top of buttress will be hard and scary at the start probably at 23-24 or M8.
Alpine - 6 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Telecom%20tower 0Right%20red%20wall clearances%20wall 0 0

Backside of Telecom Tower, wall to right of Red Wall

Access: Queens Drive.

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

64
A.D.D.
Grade 0
200m 5 pitches. Start up the clear crack system approximately 50m right of the FI. The first pitch follows the crack until an obvious ledge. P2 steps left and goes up a right facing corner onto a section of slab to a belay at the base of a turf filled left facing corner. Climb to the FI ledge. Cross right over the Clearances gully to the base of the clean looking buttress. Head up a crack system on the LH side, this can be climbed as two shorter pitches or one long pitch. For the final 7m head direct up the slab rather than the easy gully to your left.
65
S.A.D (A.D.D. Winter Variation)
Grade 0
Up pitch 1 of ADD (slabby, thin M5+). Continue directly up this crack system, following a wide crack onto a ramp into Clearances gully on pitch 3. Move up and left, exiting via spectacular final pitch of Indian Summer. (M6+)
66
The Clearances
Grade 0
Follows the first obvious gully right of the Fastest Indian/ Indian Summer. Climb featured mixed ground, which can be iced depending on conditions, until the angle relents and transitions into a snow gully leading until the prominent ledge below the Telecom Tower. From here move rightwards beneath the overhang and directly up the rock wall above (crux) into solid ice flow to ridge. Route doesn't go rightwards to ridge as shown in guide photo.
67
The Clearances Direct
Grade 0
A direct finish to the original route which climbs two pitches up the upper gully from the big ledge direct through the overhangs.
67a
Royal Blood
Grade 0
Starts in the steep corner with two small overhangs just up the snow gully right of The Clearances. Follows a series of steep corners, broken up by snow ledges and ramps for three pitches. The fourth pitch climbs the wall just to the right of the final pitch of The Clearances, joining that route just below the final ice section.
-
Project
Grade 0
The Clearances left hand side, several unclimbed variations on the right hand head wall of the Telecom Tower. Two crack systems can be seen from the Indian Summer ledge. One moving left through an overhanging block and one straight up just left of the direct finish.

Showing all routes 11 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Alpine - 11 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
The%20notch marked4

Backside of Telecom Tower, access from Queens Drive.

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

69
The Notch Route
Grade 0
An easy angled snow gully which provides access to Telecom Tower ridge.
69a
Yeah, Yeah, Nah, Yeah
Grade 0
70m 2 pitches; 'Starts down and to the right of the easy snow gully (route 69 on the guide) to the right of The Clearances. Head up the most obvious/clean, steep corner. Some climbing on the right hand face and some climbing on the corner. Over small bulge onto short, steep snow gully to belay on top of this. From belay head straight up the next corner, and climb the tricky start til corner ends in an small steep section. Step right onto arete, and up the step, before stepping left into new corner that leads to the top of this buttress onto the easy snow gully (route 69). The snow gully will provide you with easy terrain to reach the notch or alternatively with a fast walk/rap off. Both pitches about 30-35m with sustained, hard, but well protected climbing. Grade around M5. Highly recommendedif you are tired of making track up snow gullies.'
70
The Enforcer
Grade 0
A left to right leading route, which follows easy mixed ground to top out at the notch.
LJF
Little Jono Frostbite
Grade 0

PR
The Precariat
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 45m P1: Traverse under first steep buttress to 2nd nice crack. Climb to ledge system.
2. 45m Proletariat: an alternative to P1. 1st crack on lower tier. A delicate face climb to awkward right angling corner.
3. 45m P2 Awesome crack system on right of wall. Thin precarious climbing the whole way, crux offwidth bulge at top, needing #4 camalot to protect. Has not been freed, It's good, go for it!. The right leaning crack/ramp to left finishes at same point, is easier and looser (FA J Clark).
4. 30m P3. Up chimney to right. Some loose rock. Alternate exit: Can traverse snow ledge to left (Traverse of the Dogs M1, FA D Joll) then easily up ridge.
72
Equinox
Grade 0
Climb the steep mixed gully on the right hand side of the first pinnacle after the notch.
TPD
The Principal's Daughter
Grade 0
An excellent climb with a classic final pitch.
73
Searching for Inspiration
Grade 0

ESP
Espirit
Grade 0
Up steep crack corner. Good gear, poor feet, excellent, technical pitch, M6+
S2T
Shoot to Thrill
Grade 0
60m Obvious deep v groove coming out of notch. Starts as offwidth, finishing as chimney. One abseil required off backside.
-
Maximum Security
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 40m (M4+ sustained) Fantastic pitch of technical stemming on thin edges and rattly hooks in the fist-sized crack at back of corner. Well-protected throughout and the occasional jam for a breather. At the rooflet exit right and belay on a little jutting snow ledge that is walled in from two sides and seems to continue round to the steep snow at right.
2. 50m Don't follow the ledge but boulder up from your stance and wade onto the Notches superhighway. Cut straight across and up the steepest part of the slope trending left. If snow is a bit spooky get some gear in at each of the rock steps. At the final rock barrier, belay under two prominent sharp beaks that marks the spine of the main buttress (see photo- there is nothing further left but open space). 
3. 40m (M5 crux) Overhanging right-leaning corner about 5m high. Torque to glory on bomber pick and nut placements. Pray for ice on the lip as you haul/mantle over and scratch around for a possible 0.3 camalot or piton placement. Follow moderately angled groove with very sparse pro but decent ice (even in a lean year). To the left be nothing but blank slabs and that then drop away to the Telecom tower. Follow groove as it trends to the right until a small cave and a good belay among the broken blocks just past it.
4. 30m (M4 crux) A few metres above the belay is a weird moderately angled chimney inside a giant flake (see photo). Keep this to your right and instead march into a corridor sized slot higher up with some gear at the back. The right wall of this slot is a steepish corroded slab about 10m high that takes nuts with some imagination. Delicate moves get you to an easy scramble to ridge. Exit: Traverse left along ridge 50m to find hidden platform behind Telecom Tower. Rap off flake and pull really hard to get your rope down!
Searching%204sDsc02900

Access from Queens Drive, between Telecom Tower and Double Cone.

Attribution: Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

75
Flying Circus
Grade 0
Deep corner left of IiB to snow ledge, continue direct onto rib, left hand edge of corner, finish up headwall.
76
Ignorance is Bliss
Grade 0
M4+. Start up corner left of S4S, traverse right under overhang. Follow slopey corners up center of buttress.
77
Searching for Sumo
Grade 0, 0, 0
1. M5+. 5 Pitches. Follows a vague ridge with many options for either bailing or moving left or right to easier ground. To get the full tick each time you arrive at a variation or crack system take the steepest option.
2. Pitches 2 and 3 also have some hard moves on good gear.
3. The final pitch is an excellent 50m steep corner which is accessed by down climbing 15m from the top of pitch 4. As with lower down there are easier variations on both the left and right hand sides of the final pitch.
78
Project
Grade 0
Summer or winter climb the ridge direct starting at the left hand toe. This would avoid most of the difficulties of Searching for Sumo.

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 60 2000 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Alpine - 3 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ice - 1 route - avg. grade 3 3 - 4
Alta%20topo2

Accessed from the Remarkables Ski Area, there are quality summer rock routes on the buttresses and faces surrounding the lake, as well as some ice and mixed routes in winter.

Access: Walk up alongside the Alta chair then follow your nose around the LHS or RHS of the lake to the base of the climbs. In summer, you can orient yourself to the main Alta slab rock routes by looking for the clean streak of rock on the upper pitch of the route 'Fat Lady Sings at the Circus.' In winter, 'Altered States' is the obvious water ice flow below the DB Eh buttress of Double Cone. The frozen lake can often be crossed safely. Be warned: Alta ice is east facing and gets plenty of early sun. Small to medium avalanches directly down the line of 'Altered States' are very common after fresh snow or on sunny days.

Attribution: J Morris using data from QCC guidebook and RMI Festival guide. Work in progress

Showing all routes 1 route total

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Right of Lake Alta Slabs.

-
Gatecrasher
Grade 3

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Alpine - 3 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

next to Terminator ski run

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Alpine - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
FlightdeckFlightdecktopos

Good trad routes

-
Scenic Flight
Grade 24
30m Steep! One of the best trad routes in Queenstown.
-
Flight Attendant
Grade 16
50m
-
Jet Lag
Grade 17
60m
-
Glider
Grade 12
60m
-
The Fly
Grade 0
30m begins with a 15-metre crack ‘around grade M9-10’ that requires a cam placement ‘at the start to avoid ripping all [of] your wires out, as [was done] on the first attempt.’ Following this crack, the route finishes at an anchor on ledge a couple metres above Terminator anchor. Project to head left at end of crack and link into bolts awaiting first ascent! Both will make great summer rock climbs...
-
Cold November Rain
Grade 0

9 on Alta Slabs topo
On General’s Orders
Grade 0
70m M3+ Right most chimney on the RHS of the lake alta slabs. 'The ice step in the middle [of the route was] definitely the crux,’ ‘worth two stars if you like turfy corners - a great line.' Climbed by order of 'General' Dan Joll.

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 3 hrs.

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Valley%20oceans

Access from Jardiens Boulder Field (or Queens Drive, alternatively) to the Valley of the Oceans: Atlantis Wall, Indian Ocean Wall, Atlantic Wall, Pacific Wall, Ocean Wall, Lower Ocean Wall

Access: Access to this valley is from Jardiens Boulder Field or by dropping down from Queens Drive. Both access routes take between -3 hours, depending on which cliff you are wishing to visit. The farmland access may be closed during lambing or the roar, depending on what stock is in the various paddocks. From Jardiens: Follow the fence line for approx. 25 minutes. At a large black water tank, turn right and start following the trail up hill. From Queens Drive: In winter, watch out for avalanches in the gullies. Access is complicated, but can be easy if you know the way. Best to get a good map or photo of the area and make sure you drop into the right valley. This access is best considered if you have already walked from the road up the valley, and then onto Queens Drive. This way you will know where to go. There are several good bivy spots in the Valley. Three possible options are marked on the overall valley topo. There are plenty more. The first is less than 40 minutes from the car so offers little value other than being a fantastic bivy rock. The second is inside a small cave and has specular views. The cave can sleep four but is not exactly luxurious. Higher up and closer to the stream are good 1-3 person sleeping platforms although these do not provide shelter from any rain.

Attribution: Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012. Edited and posted with permission.

Four established routes. Three single pitch lines a mixture of trad and sport. Also one eight pitch sport route grade 23. Descent is by abseil.

Details for these climbs will be avaiable in the latest edition of the Queenstown Ice and Mixed Guide published by the Queenstown Climbing Club late in 2012.

For now, follow the track, look for the bolts and enjoy the climbing. There is scope on this wall for a variety of trad and bolt protected routes. The wall is approx. 200m high.

-
Poseidon
Grade 23

Vo1

One established route, but potential for many more. Two lines have been tried just right of the first pitch and directly above the initial belay. They are trad projects and involve some exciting face climbing up to an overhanging bulge. They have not been lead cleanly. Its probably worth pre-inspecting and doing some more cleaning, before trying these on gear, as the climbing through the roof will be committing. Below and right of the first pitch is a 30m wall with great rock and nice slabs. Not a lot of gear on these, so the routes have been top roped only. Continue up the grassy ledge for approx. 200m. This will bring you to the base of two walls one on your left and one on your right. Both walls look to have some good rock and nice crack lines running up them. Routes are probably four – five pitches.

VO1
One Day Ocean Crossing
Grade 0
370m 9 Pitches: As you cross the stream at the base of along a grassy ledge (bit exposed but easy) until a small flat spot. On your left is a slightly vegetated corner the route starts here. Pitch one: head up this corner to arrive at a grassy ledge, then traverse right to double bolt belay. Follow up crack above for 60m to double bolt belay. Continue up right leaning crack, then straight up the right facing wall on your left to grassy ledge. Pull over small vertical step, then up slab to grassy bank. Continue up this for 30m to the base of some nice looking slabs. Up the slabs for 3 pitches, then keep heading for another three pitches until you reach the summit. Descent is by rappel on double bolt rings. There is one 70m rap 3rd abseil from the ground. Abseil 60m then make a belay in the right facing corner described in pitch 3. Belay your partner down 7m to the next double bolt belay station. The down climb is easy about grade 12. The upper three pitches of this route are not that good, but they give you a good adventure, if you are looking for one.
Wi%20project

No recorded routes but endless natural lines between 4-10 pitches.

-
Waterfall Project
Grade 0
Potentially one of the hardest unclimbed water ice lines in the area. On the left hand end of the Atlantic wall are two waterfall ice lines. Both are unclimbed. Both suffer from falling down in the sun. If you are looking to try these in winter pick a cold day and ensure you are half way up either route well before daybreak. You would need to complete these lines before 12pm when the sun hits the face. If the final vertical water ice pitch is not formed it looks like there are some great steep dry tooling routes either side of this pitch. One looks to be M6-7 the other (left hand side) M8 or harder?

A very attractive 4-5 pitch wall. The rock varies from excellent to choss. The corner in the center of the face as you walk towards the wall is unclimbed. Several other good looking 3-4 pitch lines are unclimbed, left of Walking the Plank.

-
Walking the plank
Grade 0
Four pitches. Walk past the arête left hand side of the wall and start up the small clean chimney. Either side of this line are two grassy cracks. Continue up and belay in the base of a right facing corner. Traverse out and right aiming for the arête. From here you should be at the base of an overhanging loose roof. Exciting climbing through the roof then slab above for a full 60m. One more easier pitch takes you to the top of the route. Either walk back down and around or continue up and top out via Queens Drive and a route on the south face of Single Cone or Double Cone.

Showing all routes 29 routes total 2307 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Alpine - 23 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ice - 4 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2 3 - 4
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21

tba

Ice - 4 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2 3 - 4
Alpine - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Alta%20slabs%20topoAlta%20ice

Lovely climbs above Lake Alta.

Attribution: J Morris work in progress

1
Access route
Grade 0
Soloable ice good for accessing anchors at the top but watch for wet slide avalanches off Double Cone
3
Altered States
Grade 0
WI3 60m double bolt anchor somewhere at the top. Often victim to early sun and wet avalanches. But a great piece of ice and a good first lead.
4
White Jism
Grade 4
60m Usually done in two pitches with chain anchor on rock at 2/3 height. Some bolts on lower (crux) pitch, sometime covered in ice.
5
Scottish Jockey
Grade 0
100m
9
On General's Orders
Grade 0
M3+ 70m. Great turf
Alpine - 7 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21

The east side routes, up and left of Lake Alta Slabs

-
The Michael Baker Memorial Route
Grade 0

-
One More Route Before She Gets Home
Grade 0

-
My Kingdom for a Horse
Grade 0

-
Alta Vista
Grade 0
100 metres left of DB Eh?.
Lake Alta
Pull Me a Pilsner, direct start and extended finish, 5 pitches
Grade 0
120m Between Fat Slut Crack and the toe of the DB Eh Buttress is an overhanging corner crack. Climbed as a difficult mixed route on natural gear.
-
Maori Alphabet
Grade 17

-
The Whirrlies
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 60m Start up short left-leaning ramp then slightly right into obvious steeper turfy corner system
2. 45m Up obvious gully and belay at base of short chimney
3. 50m Shallow mixed corner that is harder than it looks, then traverse left across slab and up steeper mixed step. Repeat slab traverse and up past the top of an ice step to a snow slope. Crux pitch.
4. 50m Cross snow covered slab then up shallow corner and right around block and into more shallow corner with snowfield above
5. 50m Continue up snowfield, trending left to finish at rap station near the the top of the Petit Couloir
-
Stumpy Stout
Grade 0
30m The thin seam on the wall to the right of Pull me a Pilsner Direct Start. Pitch 1, Take double cams Green C3, red c3 single .3&.4c4 One set regular wires one set of offsets are handy up to #6. One #2 camalot for the start of the route. Pitch 2, regular set of cams up to #2 camalot.

Showing all routes 16 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Alpine - 15 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Double%20cone 1Start%20of%20double%20cone%20west%20face

Great ice and mixed routes on the west face.

Access: Access via Queens Drive in ok snow conditions 1 hr 30 mins, can take longer with deep snow. Alternate access around the SF of Single Cone approx 1.5-2 hours. It is also possible to rap down from the Heli pad at the start of the Grand Traverse

Attribution: Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012. Edited and posted with permission.

79
The Return of the King
Grade 0
300m 6 Pitches. Start on the far LHS of the face then head up and right via easy ramps and several short mixed steps before finishing between the two summits of Double Cone.
80
Alpine Deluxe
Grade 0
200m M4+. 6 pitches. Start up a left facing corner then tend right via mixed ground. Move up and over a rock step before heading right for the same finish as TRotK
81
The Final Frontier
Grade 0
300m WI4+. Mostly climbed on snow and ice up low angle rock slabs. Finish up left ending slopes to exit at the top of Petit Couloir.
82
Project
Grade 0
Summer or winter Climb the headwall pitches above The Final Frontier. Great crack and corner systems lead to the first summit of Double Cone.
83
Sumo Wrestling
Grade 0
8 pitches. Begin up a right leaning gully then move left into a corner system. Follow this towards the ridge on the right until you meet the top of pitch four on Consolation Prize. From here move left across easy snow and mixed slopes before doglegging back right to finish on the left hand side of the Double Cone Summit. See the Queenstown Climbing Club - Queenstown Rock, Ice & Mixed guidebook for a pitch by pitch description of the route. And look out for some abandoned booty on the second pitch from a previous abandoned second ascent attempt. The first three pitches were initially climbed in summer by Julian White and went at grade 17.
84
A Perfect Summers Evening
Grade 0
3 Pitches. The crack system right of Sumo with bolted abseil stations.
85
Consolation Prize
Grade 0
Start at a crack/corner system directly between Sumo and Ikon. You will see two cracks that lead up to the same chimney. Consolation prize started up the right hand crack then moved left into the chimney to exit onto the approach ramp of Ikon. Six full rope lengths of sustained climbing at grade M6, until the angle relents for the last 40m which go at M4. Carry a full rack of gear from small pitons through to #4 Camalot. The line is very straight and direct with only a slight deviating zig zag on the second to last pitch, which starts up right then cuts left around a rock pinnacle. The summer rock climb Breaking in Brett goes direct through this pinnacle. You could do this in winter but the climbing is run out and a fall from the top of the pinnacle would likely result in a ground fall to the ledge below.
86
Breaking in Brett
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 8 pitches. Start directly under the large overhanging roof system right of Consolation Prize. Up nice hand and finger cracks to the base of a wide off width. From here the route moves left under a roof for an excellent slab pitch of grade 19. Small Camalots and wires under a couple of loose flakes protect the initial moves, then move onto well protected excellent rock and traverse around the overhanging roofs to exit approximately10m higher on the Ikon approach ledge than the first pitch of Consolation Prize. From here move up and right aiming for the nice finger crack near to the arête.
2. Pitch 4 is the same as pitch 3 for Consolation Prize.
3. Pitch 5 takes the left hand slab. Climb this until gear, or nerves, run out then move right into the easy corner, which is followed to a belay stance on a ledge - where you should see the great looking crack system of pitch 6.
4. Climb this corner system starting on the left hand side. Consolation Prize took the right hand turf filled crack and exited up and left. Breaking in Brett exits up and right to a ledge. From here continue up easy loose rock to the base of the pinnacle pitch. Climb to the half banged in piton (leave it in place) and traverse left to place a #1 Camalot then run it out to the top. Be careful not to fall off through this section. You can avoid this pitch by traversing left around the triangle; however it’s a good one if you feel comfortable on run out grade 18.
5. From here, climb straight up and you should see the last pitch going up through a small roof. Climb this then follow the arête direct to the summit of Double Cone.
87
Ikon
Grade 0
8 pitches. Start as per Sumo then head up two pitches on a right leaning ramp. From here start up an nice corner system for four pitches before tending right and exiting up easier ground to the right hand side of the main Double Cone Summit.
88
Project
Grade 0
Direct start to Ikon linking into the top of pitch two. Around 70m of steep cracks which look to be solid M6 or M7 climbing. Start as for BIB. After pitch one head up the wide wet crack system on loose rock. This should take you through the roof section onto better rock and the base of the hard climbing on Ikon. Looks like the corner will freeze in winter and will probably need a #5 Camalot to protect. Two #4s were used for the belay at the base of the wide corner. A bail wire and snap lock await the successful team part way up this pitch.
89
Project
Grade 0
Direct start linking to pitch 5 of Ikon.
91
Naturalization
Grade 0
Climbs the right hand side of the obvious buttress that guards the base of the West face. Four pitches of rock and mixed climbing leads to the upper, fun pitches of Sumo. On the first ascent rock shoes were used on the first pitches and once the lip of the buttress was turned, alpine boots came back on.
91a
Naturalization Alternate Start
Grade 0, 0
1. 40m Follow the right tending corner to the base of the overhanging offwidth crack (currently unclimbed)
2. 40m Move up and right via loose blocks and some airy traverse moves to reach the belay at the top of Naturalizations second pitch. This pitch is not recogmended due to the loose rock. Naturalization regular start is the better way to go. Unless you want to climb the overhanging offwidth crack that hangs above pitch one.
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Dairy for Life
Grade 18, 20, 17, 16, 17, 18, 0
1. 35m Start up twin cracks crossing a crux bulge at half height. Trend right over slab to DBA at detached boulder.
2. 25m Awkward mantle onto boulder, then commit to crux jams through overhang then up easy crack to belay on ledge.
3. 50m Fun climbing up corner crack then place gear high and traverse right on slab under roof. Climb slab to right of roof to belay on ledge just right of large detached block.
4. 45m Climb slab on small holds to right facing layback crack. Make hand traverse 8m right and up easy crack to belay on ledge.
5. 40m Mainly easy climbing up wide crack with short crux at start - crank through overhanging horn. Belay on ledge.
6. 60m Mainly low grade climbing/scrambling with a grade 18 roof. Watch rope drag. Belay on ledge.
7. 60m Easy climbing/scrambling to ridge just right of the South Summit of Double Cone. Suits soloing/simul-climbing. Last 4m to summit is easy but steep climbing with some loose blocks and is worth roping up for as a fall here would spoil your day (possibly same exit as Ikon?).
92
Old Guard
Grade 0
Starting up the first obvious snow gully right of the buttress that forms the foot of the west face, this route weaves its way through some daunting territory with four solid, engaging and fun mixed pitches. It's quite feasible to solo the first pitch or two before the real climbing starts.
90
Chasing Shadows
Grade 0
5 pitches. Starts up a large snow gully for approximately 100m to where real climbing begins. Follow slabs initially then follow more featured mixed ground before traversing left to top out south of the summit of Double Cone.
Alpine - 3 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Ice - 2 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2 3 - 4
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Wall evening light marked3

Facing west underneath the viewing platform at the top of Shadow Basin.

Access: Downclimb gully directly below saddle above shadow basin, or rappel face.

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Afterglow
Grade 4

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Charmer
Grade 2

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Pandora's Box
Grade 0
a layback and easy open-book corner
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Arago Spot
Grade 0
50m
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Once
Grade 0
12m Curving crack. Four un necessary bolts lead to a single bolt belay and fixed carabiner. The crack protects well with offset and regular nuts, 2 x .5, 1 x 2, 1 x 3 camalot. Makes an excellent all natural protection route. Very enjoyable dry tooling or summer rock climb. The anchor could use a second bolt, and the bolts in the crack dont need to be there. Excellent natural protection.See pic below for wires used.
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B12
Grade 19
30m corner
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Dying Light
Grade 19
11 Bolt
50m From the access ledge rappel for 45 metres from a backed-up ring to reach a small legde on the lip of a huge overhang. Climb up and left to an horizontal break then up and traverse back right for the last 10 metres to access ledge. A rack of wires and cams are necessary.
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Push Play
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m 23/24 bolted sport climb near the right hand end of the upper tier.
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Stease
Grade 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 30m To the right of the major chimney in the face, initially follow a low angle ramp diagonally right, before stepping with difficulty into a chossy offwidth, improving into a right leaning double crack system. Crux is a roof at the top with good gear.
2. 40m Follow the chimney, followed by some ice and a turfy corner.
3. 45m A direct line. Follow a low angle left leaning corner, followed by a series of steep steps with good gear when needed.
4. 40m A couple of steep steps.

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 23 0 - 16 22 - 25

multi-pitch rock routes

Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 23 0 - 16 22 - 25

With searing crack lines this is the bold and beautiful wall up South Wye valley. A mix of climbs on quality schist. The main 'Broken Heart' wall is sustained 20+ degrees overhanging. Perhaps the hardest, most aesthetic crack line in the country (up the centre of the heart between the L & R Ventricles) still awaits an attempt. A bolted anchor is in place. The now bolted 'Drillfibrillator' is an open project (~ grade 29/30?) awaiting an attempt. More quality new-route sport potential awaits left of Left Ventricle. Right & Left Ventricles were climbed ground up. The Left Ventricle took multiple trips with multiple attempts whipping into space - eventually requiring some cleaning of the upper crack on abseil. It would be great to see the same ethos upheld for the central trad line. A 70m single will get you back to ground on all the routes except the Left Ventricle (& possibly the central trad project?); half ropes are recommended for the trad lines. 50m half ropes would climb all lines. Routes are currently described from climbers left to right. Photos to follow.

Access: 2 to 3 hrs hike from top car park. Follow South Wye creek on true left, up valley past the South Wye main wall & bivy, up to hanging valley beyond. Cross to true right of creek. Continue past the house size boulder with bolted route. Wall is obvious looking "broken heart" shape wall on true right of creek (climbers left). Bivy is large and spacious (comfortable 4-6 people), also on true right of creek, 5 mins prior to broken heart wall. Wall is approximately 45mins past South Wye main wall. Mid-Late summer is the best season for climbing as the wall is at ~1000m, within the winter snowline and south-south west facing, taking time to dry after winter. But great on those baking hot summer days.

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Left Ventricle
Grade 27
40m This line is stronger and pumps harder than the Right. Climb the initial face, then up curving crack. Pass wide section then up thinner vertical crack which splits off main crack. Back to corner and to ledge. DBB.
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Open Trad Project
Grade 0
The stunning crack line up the middle of the wall. Quality rock. Unattempted. Possibly the hardest trad line in the country? Awaiting ground up send!
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Right Ventricle
Grade 24
38m Follow sustained crack to ledge. DBB.
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Drillfibrillator Project
Grade 0
34m After multiple (3) bolting attempts where the drill apparently had a couple heart attacks - the last bolt has finally been placed and this route is now an OPEN PROJECT. DBB.
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Two Feet and a Heart Beat
Grade 25
9 Bolt
32m Straight up face. Tricky onto slab, then listen to your heart beat. DBB.
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Coronary Corner
Grade 18
30m Climb up past 2 bolts then veer left up corner crack to ledge. DBB.
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Arrythmia
Grade 23
9 Bolt
18m Start as for coronary corner then traverse right and up steep face. DBB.