Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 66 routes total Time 1 min 150 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 53 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Map%20crag 0Panorama

Calum Hudson did some work here in 1992–93, but it was Steve Carr who almost single-handedly developed this crag in 1997. The crag is currently (as of 2012/13) having a makeover. Many routes are being extended to the tops of the wall - often being aggressively cleaned and retrobolted. Many new sport routes are being opened up. Caution needs to be exercised with some holds as rock that may appear stable can sometimes flake off under pressure. That said, the crag is cleaning up very nicely. Bolts are stainless steel 10 x 75 mm.

Access: At 21 km on the road to Long Beach, turn off left at the ‘Osborne’ sign soon after passing Purakaunui School and descend to Purakaunui Inlet. Drive around the left side of the inlet until the road turns to sand. Brave the soft sand, and if you don’t get bogged a genuine roadside crag will be your reward, 100m inland from Purakaunui Beach and the Mapoutahi Peninsula.

Attribution: Dave Brash

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Whalebone%20slabWhalebone slabs def

1st Crag from left

1
Paul and Pixie’s Sunday Outing
Grade 18
10m Up the slab from the top of the crack.
2
Reality Surfing
Grade 17
10m From the corner step R and up to gain the nice dimpled slab. Quite popular, but a slip at the crux before clipping the first bolt could lead to a nasty pendulum into the corner.
3
Reality Direct
Grade 18
10m Potential for fall onto block on the move before the second bolt.
4
Left Hand of the Whales Back
Grade 16
8m Start at the foot of arete behind detached block.
5
Cheats Wall
Grade 18
8m R from first bolt of LHOTWB.
6
Scapula
Grade 19
8m A good wee climb; tricky moves to nice faceclimbing. Escapable.
7
Off the Shoulder
Grade 17
8m Good moves at the top.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

The%20dome

All routes on the Dome by Steve Carr, 1998

8
Take Me Down
Grade 19
5m
9
Mr Blister
Grade 21
6m Over the bulge on small sharp holds.
10
In the Arms of Sleep
Grade 19
6m Avoid bridging the R wall if you’re into ticking grades.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
GumpsGumps but tock def

Right of the Dome

-
Monsoon
Grade 18
8 Bolt
22m The dark crack between the two walls
-
Rain Dance
Grade 16
7 Bolt
22m Left side of slab
-
Too Soon
Grade 19
7 Bolt
22m Right side of slab with some interesting moves towards the top
11
Shux
Grade 17
15m Needs another bolt at the bottom. Traverse R along break and up.
12
Shux Variant
Grade 18
15m Through the thin crack.
13
Y Fronts
Grade 17
15m Through the wide crack.
14
Treacherous Fingers
Grade 20
25m Committing layback in an airy setting!
15
Porcine Posterior
Grade 17
25m Unaware that Hudson had climbed this, Steve named this climb Gump’s But-tock. The resemblance to nether regions is obviously striking. The slightly scary crux at 8m can be avoided by stepping L to Treacherous Fingers to give a grade 16 climb with good pro. The wide upper crack swallows big gear.
16
Whistle Stop
Grade 19
30m Steve found evidence of Hudson’s presence on the top section. A shocker.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
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Right of Gumps

Attribution: Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.

1
Blunt Buttress
Grade 23
9 Bolt
30m to the left of 'The Jolly Cobbler'. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!, 9 QDs,
2
Cola Crack
Grade 24
9 Bolt
Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 24. Starts at ground level behind the trees - pull leftwards across the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up to the base of the crackline. Fingerlocks abound up the stunning upper wall with a wide array of fantastic features. Superlative climbing.
3 & 4
The Jolly Cobbler
Grade 18, 20
13 Bolt
1. 15m Step into the crack from the right and up onto the wall of knobs. Steep climbing to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.
2. 15m Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving left onto a hanging slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner.
5
Fact or Friction
Grade 20
7 Bolt

6
Storming the Palisade
Grade 22
9 Bolt
Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process.
-
Killing Time
Grade 18
6m Up the track from the left to the apex under the main wall where this route begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock, padding easily up the arête to the chains

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Stronghold

The Pinnacle in front of the Main Wall

27
Day of the Triffids
Grade 16
8m Interesting, well protected - do it. Starting from the ferny rock at the front RH corner of the Stronghold, traverse L along the sloping ledge and clip 2 bolts before swinging out onto the solid slab above.
28
Sloth
Grade 17
7m L along the ledge and out onto face. Up arete to horizontal placement. Move L to bolt and up.
29
Contaminant
Grade 17
7m Continue up R from nut placement on Sloth and past bolt.
30
Homecoming Queen
Grade 22
7m A sustained, popular problem up the steep north face.
31
Fools Gold
Grade 14
6m Follow arete after bridging across gap.
32
Spinal Tap
Grade 18
6m Up the centre. Contrived, but nevertheless a bit scary.
33
Bridge to Nowhere
Grade 15
6m Bridge up to ledges and bolt.

Showing all routes 34 routes total

Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Main wall 01 0Main wall 02 2

The central line on the Eldorado Wall remains and has been retrobolted to the big ledge where it takes a line up the crack in the wall above (currently a closed project as at April 2013). Fire Walker also starts from ground level on the right hand side of Eldorado Wall.

18
Chronic Confusion
Grade 22
12 Bolt
25m This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay.
FW
Fire Walker
Grade 19
13 Bolt
25m Starting up what was formerly 'Star Spangled Spanner' on the right hand edge of the Eldorado Wall, this route has been retro bolted on the lower section and now continues to the top of the cliff with the addition of several more bolts making it the longest route on the cliff.
-
New route
Grade 22
8 Bolt
Immediately left of Teardrop Arete at Mapoutahi. Climb the pillar in the corner, move rightwards across the wall, then straight up overhanging terrain to finish on the same lichenous slab as Teardrop Arete. .
-
Teardrop Arete
Grade 18
6 Bolt
20m Located in the centre of the main wall at Mapoutahi. Approach from the left hand end walking under The Jolly Cobbler Wall. Surmount the detached block to reach the first bolt. Swing left at the top onto the white lichenous slab for an engaging finish!!
1
Friggin Hell
Grade 17
3 Bolt
15m All natural pro corner to a DBB at 15m. Good pro. Begins off the top of a pillar in a high corner. Clip two bolts to get the business going. At the top of the corner the old chains have been removed and substituted with a bolt runner. The new ring belay can be found just over the brow of the arête above and to the left.
-
Rebel Without a Clue
Grade 23
Somewhere R of Friggin Hell, starting at the high point of the ground and in the main apex of the cliff is ‘an excellent route’ which goes to the top of the cliff to another waratah belay, now overgrown with gorse. Could do with a DBB.
-
Bush Stream Blues
Grade 19
8 Bolt
Around grade 19: "Scramble up to high ledge immediately right from start of Fire Walker (staple in wall for belay). Head left into the groove and straight up the arête." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151628917090815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
-
EPIRB Virgin
Grade 20
It starts left of Jospe/Carr route and right of BSB: "Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves from ledge (crux) into corner and leftwards across hanging slab."-Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151650458650815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
-
Jospe/Carr Route
Grade 19
9 Bolt
"The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers which was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe, has now been extended to the top of the crag. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arête into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151662931290815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
GS
Golden Showers
Grade 17
8 Bolt
20m Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture.
K
Kaos
Grade 19
18m Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Take a line rightwards under Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Good steep juggy crux above the last bolt (which is shared with Control, making it an awkward clip for both routes).
C
Control
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt...Control 'has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar.'- Dunedin Climbing Facebook Page
GG2
Greek Gift 2
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Launch onto the rock off the top of the boulder at ground level to the right of 'Control' with a few delicate moves to a ledge. Up the groove until forced out onto the face beneath the bulging arete. A couple of power moves into the crack takes you to the chains. Bolted by Steve, given as a gift to Dave.
-
The Brave and Humble
Grade 24
To the right of GG2: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151662978145815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater Start as for Greek Gift 2, step right after 1st bolt and climb thin slab, finish straight up the middle where the wall steepens.
HHNF
Hell Hath No Fury....
Grade 18
15m "The R facing corner to DBB" - (Steve Carr, 1997. Grade 14, 7m) Retrobolted in it's upper section (2012). Top section may have been led using pitons for protection by Matt Squires many years ago and had no belay. The top two metres of the (moving) pillar has been removed and now leads into sustained bridging up the corner. Natural pro optional up initial crack.
LaLS
Like a Lover Scorned
Grade 20
20m Good natural pro up the L leaning crack breaking out onto the bulge above and a couple of bolts. Over the bulge onto the ledge then power up the arete above. 6 bolts and a couple of small cams to protect the initial crack.
NR
New route
Grade 17
Up fractured crack to top of pillar then an interesting move onto ledges. Up ledges and into fist crack for a couple of moves. First ascent led using a self-belay device, anchoring the rope to the bull bars on the front of a 4x4 at the base of the crag
U
Undertow
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Heads up a nice water-warn wall.
-
Multi Author Protocol
Grade 21
6 Bolt
A steep and powerful combination on good rock. Start up Undertow until you can step right onto the big sloping ledge at half height. Then climb straight up the steep wall above until you can join Do or Dive at it's last bolt.
-
Do or Dive
Grade 21
7 Bolt
A great route up the steep and solid wall left of Winona's. Climb easily up to the half height ledge, then balance up and right onto the nose. From here, commit to an awesome sequence of crimps, slopers and jugs that diagonals leftwards across the steep upper wall.
-
Alternate Start to WBBB
Grade 16
An alternate start is to traverse right onto route above steep crux at bottom: start from 2 routes to the left to clip bottom bolt, traverse immediately right to next route; climb on this sport route to the obvious weakness to the right. Place small cam (optional) and tenuously traverse right, ending up near 3rd bolt of WBBB. Others have traversed into the route from the route just to the left of WBBB, using a traverse below the 3rd bolt and no gear. You may want a large cam for the final crack at the top of the route, although there are smaller placements lower down.
WBBB
Winona's Big Brown Beaver
Grade 18
20m Pumpy start to reach high and pull through the crux, and then eases off before a slightly steeper finish. Some cams can be placed to protect the top crack, above the last bolt. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416091355815&set=pb.208069165814.-2207520000.1360495832&type=3&theater
Eof
Eject-o-flap
Grade 20
6 Bolt
20m Some powerful moves with a couple of reachey clips. Sharp holds down low.
A
Arokehe
Grade 19
5 Bolt
Down the right hand end and immediately right of 'Eject-o-flap'. Up to the roof, a devious move right, then good holds to a long reach left before balancing across to the chains.
DS
Dirty Sanchez
Grade 22
5 Bolt
15m Clip the third bolt and enjoy a sustained adventure.
?
?
Grade 17
Use DS rap station on the left. Only one hanger left on the route. Alternate start on left to avoid chossy overhang.
HoaM
Hanging on a Mystery
Grade 21
8 Bolt
15m
EF
Electro-flage
Grade 23
8 Bolt
15m
CF
Chocolate Fondue
Grade 21
6 Bolt
15m Just right to EF, sharing first bolt. Beware potential ground fall before clipping second bolt (very easy climbing though). Short technical brainteaser near the top. Drilled by Steve, gifted to Maud.
17
Twinkle Toes
Grade 18
10m
19
Polaroid Potential
Grade 18
10m
20
Star Spangled Spanner
Grade 20
10m A few nice moves.
21
Sledge Hammer
Grade 16
10m Nasty, slippery rock to the first bolt. Not worth it.
1
Friggin Hell
Grade 0
15m A crackline hidden in a corner in the centre of the wall. Surmount a small pillar at the base of the corner and launch up the crack. A range of cams will see you right.