Perched on the side of Huntsbury Hill, this small west-facing crag is visible from the Summit Road as one drives east from Sugarloaf
The climbs are clustered together on the highest and cleanest part of the crag. The rock is trachyte and is mostly solid, with excellent friction, but is a bit dirty in places because of the small number of ascents. Most routes use a mix of bolts and natural pro. The climbs are about 8-15 metres long. There are six anchor stations at the top - four of them use double bolts and chains, but two combine a single chain with a convenient hex or cd placement. A mid-sized CD is useful on many routes.
The crag is free of the elitism found elsewhere in that even the easy routes are well protected, with bolts where necessary. With grades ranging from 11 to 23 there's something for everyone, but not many routes at any particular grade.Some of the climbs are being modernised with more fixed protection. NOTE: The four climbs between 'Edna' and 'Broken Turbine' have been destroyed by the earthquakes.
Access: Access The crag is on the west side of Huntsbury Spur, just below the airfield. From town go up Parklands Drive or Ramahama Road to Huntsbury Ave and up to the end of the road. Walk or drive up the track to the airfield, where the track swings east to head towards the Summit Road. Head west from the spur and the crag should be immediately seen to the right. Alternatively you can descend from the Summit Road, or walk or bike up the Bowenvale Track. The whole area is owned by the City Council, so access is not a problem. Please DO NOT climb on the area between Thermaling Hawks and Killing Moon. They have already been climbed, and the vegetation is being rehabilitated.
Attribution: Information by Lindsay Main, Previously hosted on website by John Davis