Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 25 routes total Time 50 mins 445 m

Trad - 18 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 13 0 - 16 17 - 21

Wellingtonʻs answer to the Port Hills in Christchurch – except that the rock is sandstone, there are just three established crags and none of them is that good. That said, you can have a lot of fun poking around the tops and climbing the odd route. And the 360º view of Wellington is fantastic.

Access: Walk up to the transmitter tower from Khandallah Swimming Pool (in Khandallah Park at the end of Woodmancote Road). From there, follow the Northern Walkway track south (heading towards Crofton Downs), down to a slight saddle. ML3 can be seen on your right, Punk Rock is just over the ridge beyond, and the Slide is in the valley beyond the obvious red dome of rock.

Showing all routes 2 routes total

ML3 is the red, jagged-looking rock in the gully running west from the saddle below the transmitter.

Access: It’s best to approach from above to avoid the impenetrable scrub below.

1
Book Respect
Grade 12
3 Bolt
12m Up the red slab. Single ringbolt anchor (another bolt 1m back).
2
Sniffing Vivids
Grade 13
1 Bolt
6m The red pinnacle. Climb the slab to the left of a single bolt, or on the arete to the right (easier). Sling anchor.

Showing all routes 15 routes total

Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

An understated little crag, tucked away where you least expect it and with views to boot. There are 15 climbs in the easy-to-mid-grade range, all climbed by Charlie Creese in the early 1980s. Two steel stakes at the top of the crag, eight metres back, act as belays.

1
Sin
Grade 14
5m Climb the left side of the face following a vague seam.
2
Acne
Grade 15
7m Over the small overlaps.
3
Seagull Groove
Grade 12
7m Be prepared to fight off the seagulls!
4
Blasphemy
Grade 22
10m Climb the face right of the arete (holds on the arete are out of bounds) in small edges and nubbins. Classic face climbing, though protection is sparse to non-existent.
5
Siene
Grade 18
10m The central line, using the seam for gear. Move right onto the arete near the top.
6
Obscene
Grade 17
10m Climb diagonally leftwards below the arete formed by the edge of the pinnacle.
7
Apathy
Grade 14
10m Climb the left-arching crack.
8
Farce
Grade 17
10m Starts in the apex then up through some more difficult moves through the small overlap.
9
Going To Fall
Grade 17
10m Climb the slab then make committing moves at the overlap. One bolt and fiddly pro lower down.
10
Piles
Grade 17
10m Starts below a roof. Follow water pods and edges until under the overlap. Like the previous route there are committing moves through the overlap, however this time they are protected by a bolt.
11
Complacent
Grade 17
10m Climb the blunt arete, clipping the bolt on Piles as you pass by.
12
Pretty Vacant
Grade 13
8m Up the right-facing ramp through the weakness.
13
Just Another VS
Grade 15
8m Climb over the small roof and up the thin headwall.
14
Anarchy
Grade 17
8m Start behind the cabbage tree and climb small ribs and edges.
15
Angular Momentum
Grade 19
8m Easy moves off the ground lead to a crux move at the overlap.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Better than it sounds, apparently. The first three routes share a single bolt belay; for Charlie’s Other Route use the pine tree.

Access: The Slide is best reached from Punk Rock: walk south-west to the next ridge and down the sheep trails until you can see the Slide in a gully on your left.

1
The Groove
Grade 11
8m The large corner. Single bolt belay.
2
SPF
Grade 18
8m The face with a bolt at 3m and sparse pro after that. Only grade 18 if you stay on route. Single bolt belay.
3
Charlie’s Job
Grade 16
8m Climb the flake then left to the bolt. A small CD can be used before the belay.
4
Charlie’s Other Route
Grade 19
1 Bolt
5m The smooth face at the right-hand end of the crag. Start below and left of the bolt, and climb direct. A little contrived – only really 19 if you stay in the middle past the bolt.

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 20 minutes

Waterfall%20crag3

A little crag with some pleasant easy routes. A nice spot on a summer's evening. Rock is similar to that on Punk Rock and ML3. History is uncertain. Mike Peat (re)discovered this spot in 2007, and developed it with Tom Wilson. The amount of loose material removed at that time suggested that previous climbing had been unlikely. However it's possible this could be one of the "worthless crags" originally described in Jon Rosemergy's 1995 Wellington Rock guidebook. Corrections welcome. Tom put up "Kevin 07" and Mike did the rest. Mike's route names tbc.

Access: From the top of Vasanta Avenue, Ngaio, walk up the streamway. The route takes you up one small waterfall, and then to the base of a larger and impassable waterfall. At this point cut up the bank on the true right to bypass the waterfall. The crag is a few minutes further on, just past the tree line.

-
Jungle Juice
Grade 10
Big wires and cams. Double bolt anchor.
-
Slay Tracks
Grade 12
Pleasant climbing. Medium to large cams and wires. Shares a double bolt anchor with Kevin 07 and Paraquat.
-
Kevin 07
Grade 15
Up the middle. Single bolt just under the small overhang. Cams and wires for the rest. Shares double bolt anchor with Slay Tracks and Paraquat.
-
Paraquat
Grade 16
Work the angles up right edge of the crag. Single bolt just before crux at arete. Cams and wires for the rest. Shares a double bolt anchor with Slay Tracks and Kevin 07.