Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 16 routes total

Alpine - 16 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

The Travers Range is the most popular climbing range in the Nelson region. Both easy and challenging routes exist on the four main peaks: Angelus, Hopeless, Cupola and Travers. Access is best via Robert Ridge (see above) or the Travers Valley. As well as the track and huts in the main valley there are tracks into three side creeks and three high huts: Lake Angelus (36 bunks, serviced), Hopeless Hut (6 bunks, standard), Cupola Basin Hut (8 bunks, standard).

Access: Access is best via Robert Ridge or the Travers Valley.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1877 m

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Robert Ridge offers a high route to Lake and Mount Angelus at the tip of the Travers Range.

Access: Drive west along SH63 from St Arnaud and turn left on to West Bay Road. Follow it for 5km, crossing the Buller River and climbing to the upper Mt Robert car park. Walking time from here to Angelus Hut (36 bunks, serviced) is 5-8 hours. The route to Angelus Hut along Robert Ridge is a superb ski tour but beware of avalanches on the two sidles. A more sheltered access is via the track to Speargrass Hut (12 bunks, serviced) and then a poled route to Robert Ridge, or via the Cascade Track up Hukere Stream (beware of ice here in winter). Allow 5-7 hours for either option (less if you take the water taxi for the latter).

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Robert Ridge Peaks
Grade 0
From the car park the Pinchgut Track climbs to Bushedge Shelter at the bushline, just north-west of Mt Robert (1421m). For a good round trip continue to Relax Shelter then head east to Bushline Hut (14 bunks, serviced) and descend Paddys Track to the car park. The main ridge track continues up a tussock spur to Second Basin, overlooking the old skifield. Follow the rock and scree ridge over Flagtop (1690m) and above Third Basin to a notch below Julius Summit (1794m). To continue south along the Robert Ridge, descend scree to a hanging basin on the west side, sidle under Julius Summit and regain the ridge. Follow the ridge above Fourth Basin to a south-east spur at its southern end. Peaks 1885m and 1877m on this spur are steep scrambles. The track to Lake Angelus sidles the western end of this spur, down to a saddle at the head of Speargrass Creek. Climb to the ridge above, on the eastern side of the lake, and descend scree to Angelus Hut.

Showing all routes 5 routes total 2260 m

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Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
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Several good routes are possible from Cupola Basin Hut, including some buttresses of reasonable quality rock.

Access: Cupola Basin Routes A marked track to Cupola Basin Hut leaves the Travers Valley at a small clearing. At 1370m and with spectacular views nearby the hut is well sited for climbs.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst Text & upper photo Lower photo: Craig Potton

A
East Face
Grade 0
An imposing series of red rock buttresses. One route goes up the first red buttress on the left of a faultline on the right of the face. The first two pitches are loose, with a grade 16 crux on the second pitch. Three more pitches lead onto easy ground, then traverse to a final pitch which leads to the top of the faultline. Further left, there are two more routes (grade 13). There is also a route on the buttress right of the faultline (grade 16, reasonable quality rock).
B
North Face
Grade 0
From Cupola Basin Hut, sidle up to a big scree fan on the North Face. The usual summer route is a zigzag ledge on a rib between deep gullies. A hanging scree shelf above is crossed to its eastern edge where firm rock leads directly to the summit. The gully left of the zigzag ledge provides good climbing when snow-filled.
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North Gully
Grade 0
A very narrow gully starts from the left edge of the North Face fan (North Face route) and exits on easy slopes below the summit. The route is visible from points south-west of the hut. Belay up a 2m step of water ice over steep rock (small wedge or piton needed). Continue over a smaller ice step and then easier ground. Note that the steep walls above the gully catch the early morning sun, so be sure to reach the upper gully before the hummers reach you.
C
North West Ridge
Grade 0
This is gained from the top of a scree fan between Cupola and a dome-shaped peak to the north. Shaky pinnacles and a deep notch make the route difficult.
D
South Ridge
Grade 0
This ridge is gained from Gunsight Pass and sweeps steeply up to the summit. An excellent winter climb.

Showing all routes 8 routes total 2338 m

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Alpine - 8 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+
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The highest point on the Travers Range, with routes accessible from either the upper Travers Valley or Summit Creek.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

A
North East Ridge
Grade 2
Gain the ridge from the junction of the creek with the Travers River, or more easily from Summit Creek via scree or snow slopes, left of a buttress. The ridge gains height gradually in a series of steps, then becomes narrow and broken. Eventually the upper basin in Summit Creek route is reached. Do not traverse onto the steep and loose east face.
B & D
Summit Creek Routes
Grade 1
A relatively easy summer route. From the Travers valley, follow the true left bank of Summit Creek into a tussock basin (small campsites here). Climb a wide gully between the north-east ridge and north buttress over tussock, scree and easy slabs. From an upper basin which usually holds snow, angle south-west to the summit ridge and the final climb to the summit. Alternatively, climb scree west of the north buttress till below the peak, then easy loose rock to the summit ridge.
C
North Buttress
Grade 2.25
A climb recommended for experienced climbers only. Follow Summit Creek route to scree 200m above the toe of the buttress to a narrow couloir rising steeply from scree to crags above. A four metre step near the bottom requires friction holds. Above a ledge the couloir is walled by loose rock. Once on the buttress follow the jagged ridge around the upper basin rim to the summit. Note: Grade is unconfirmed.
E
South Ridge
Grade 3
The ridge begins from Travers Saddle. Initially climb rotten rock to a deep notch. Climb steep rock via a crack (2 pitches) angling on to the Sabine side - a rope will be needed. Solid slabs then give good climbing to the summit. An excellent summer route.
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South Face
Grade 3
300m Climb the lower snowfield in the centre of the face, then angle up right close beside the buttress below and right of the upper snowfield. Five 60m pitches to reach the South East Ridge just below the crux of that route.
F
East and South East Ridges
Grade 3.25
These ribs separate the east, south and south-east faces of Travers. The principal difficulty is a rock step near the top, above where the ribs join. Climb it direct or turn it via a steep ramp. Once on the south ridge easy slabs lead to the summit.
G
East Face
Grade 2
This face of steep loose rock has been ascended, but is not recommended as a descent route. Note: Grade is unconfirmed.
H
North East Ridge from Upper Travers Hut
Grade 2
Cross the river and ascend the scree opposite the hut. Cross a broad south-east falling tussock spur, below a buttress, and sidle into the next basin to the north-east. From the head of this basin follow ramps and ledges onto the ridge, then North East Ridge route to the summit. This is a good descent route.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 1790 m

Between Mt Cupola & Mt Travers

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From Travers Valley.
Grade 0
An alternative to Travers Saddle. From Cupola Basin Hut sidle under the eastern slopes of Mt Cupola into a large basin. The pass is the low point at the head of the basin. It is also possible to traverse scree slopes on the west, under Mt Travers, to Travers Saddle.
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From Sabine Valley
Grade 0
From the swingbridge across the East Sabine gorge either climb a forested spur to a shoulder above the bushline, or follow the Travers Saddle track up to the bushline and sidle to the top of the same shoulder. Continue sidling from the shoulder to a large scree. Skirt above or cross the scree to a steep gut that leads to the pass. From the slopes below the pass it is possible to reach the steep western gullies and spurs of Mt Cupola, but it is not known whether these have been climbed.