Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 108 routes total Time 5 min. 640 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 101 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Ote 1

It may take a while to get a grip on the name:"O-te -pa-to-tu", or "Ote" for short.

There are some excellent routes here, particularly low-grade trad climbs which are well-protected and reasonably long. The rock configuration means that most of the better routes have a compact, knobbly lower half (nice climbing but sometimes with little pro), and a steeper, more featured upper half.

In northwest winds the crag is sheltered, though it's very exposed at the top. Avoid it in a southerly.

History

The crag was first visited by a group of wandering climbers in 1973, producing a series of excellent routes. These are the classic ***Ultimate Horror (16) - later "enhanced" with two bolts and *Deviant (17) by Tim Wethey, **Oblivion (16) by Mike Franklin, *N.S.U (14 ) by Mike Perry, and *Diploma (14) by Warwick Anderson. These visits established the crag, but the next new route was not until five years later with Hugh Logan’s **Eliminator (18). The crag’s hardest climb was produced by John Allen in 1979: Walk on the Mild Side (23). This necessitated a 7m fall due to removing hands from the rock at the wrong time! Another Allen prize was **Altar (21), the spectacular arete that gives the crag its profile. This was top-roped in 1973, but the difficulty (for the time) and limited protection preserved it for seven more years. Also climbed in 1980 were John Howard’s Falter (22) and Greenstick Fracture (20). Roddy McKenzie added Cabbage Milkshake (22). During the 1990s the crag had a few new routes put in by Hamish Dunn & Rob Battersby, mixing trad climbing in with bolts. Alan Hill and friends also put up some trad routes, mainly on the small cliffs to the left of the main wall, during the 90s and early 2000s.

In 2011 seismic events forced a re-evaluation of local climbing, and Otepatotu became a preferred destination because of the absence of damage to the crag and ease of access. A track was cut to the base, all the existing lines were cleaned, and many new routes and variations were added, the main protagonists being Joe Arts, Lindsay Main, and Hugh Logan. A few routes (The Ultimate Horror and Dead Heroes) were retro-bolted, and bolt anchor stations were established along the top of the crag. Gorse-infested corners were cleaned out and development started on the left side of the main cliff (left of Walk on the Mild Side), resulting in about 15 new routes and variations. Many of these were of unexpected quality.

Apart from the main crag, with routes listed below, there are three smaller crags to the left, the Left, Middle, and Right Buttresses. The routes on these are listed separately for each crag.

Access:

From Christchurch, take the Akaroa highway to Hilltop and from there the Summit road. About 3km past the Okains Bay turnoff is the Otepatotu Scenic Reserve, with the crag as its dominant feature. A track leads to the top of the crag, which is a pleasant spot.

To access the cliff, follow the DOC track for about 50 metres, and at the top of the steps look for a marked track on the left, which leads directly to the right side of the crag (about 100 metres). Take care of the native vegetation, but there is an open season on gorse!

The climbs are described from left to right, so the first-named climbs are at the far end when you reach the crag.

Attribution: Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis

Showing all routes 18 routes total Time 5-10 min 640 m

Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 22 22 - 25

The left-most of the three detached crags on the west side of the Otepatotu climbing area.

Access: It is shorter to walk from the road directly below than along the track round the base of the crag. Park at the turnout directly below the buttress, about 200 metres before the main car-park. Walk up the grassy slope trending left around the edge of the scrub, until an old rock-fall track through the scrub is reached. Walk up this to the right edge of the buttress. The climbs are described from left to right, so the first routes listed are at the far end of the crag, starting in the major right-facing corner.

Attribution: Alan Hill, Lindsay Main, Troy Mattingley.

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French Fries
Grade 12
The first two routes are away around the left of the crag, accessed by traversing along a vegetated ledge and scrambling up over trees and ledges to reach the major corner halfway up the cliff. This route is the main corner with wide crack.
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Caught And Bowled
Grade 15
Starting from the same place – this route goes up the face to the right of the corner.
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Ghosts Of Yesteryear
Grade 17, 16
1. 10m Starts from a small platform just left of the major arête. Technical crack climbing through a small roof and up the short crack to vegetation; scramble leftward to belay on the ledge.
2. 10m Start up the undercut arête on good holds, moving to the left. Reasonable spaced protection from cams and wires. Finish right by the arête.
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Escape To Victory
Grade 16, 19
1. 15m Start up the obvious cracks just right of the main arête to the big ledge. Up the arête with wires to the right and then a cam across on the left – watch for rope drag. Pull up past the bolt and set up an anchor on the ledge from a small totara or cams.
2. 10m Diagonally left across the wall with limited gear to gain the arête at a ledge. Then up the crack right on the arête, with exposed positions; crux at the top.
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The Beast
Grade 18, 22
1. 15m Up the centre of the face with good wires for protection to meet a short crack; then slightly right to gain the left-leaning diagonal and on to the ledge to anchor.
2. 10m The wide crack through a roof. Harder than it looks.
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Limber Up
Grade 17
28m Starts at the main vegetated gully on the left of the crag. A long diagonal climb taking in a large amount of foliage en route. At the left margin of the forested gully climb both rock and trees to eventually break clear of the vege. Head rightward to the gully/corner, with steep but straightforward climbing using the arête at the top.
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Kava, Mr Lava?
Grade 24
10m A boulderers route. Amble up leaning crack on adequate gear up to the sequential shield of rock with bolts. Finishes on obvious ledge.
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Shorty's Terror
Grade 17
28m The steep crack to the left of the totara tree. Despite being named after a cave passage, this is a good climb. A short staircase to start, then steep climbing with wires and a step right onto a ledge. Up the V-groove to a crucial jug, and clamber into an easy section. For part two, step left onto the well-featured arête following a vague crack, which develops nicely in the top block. Step right at the top for an exposed finish. Ring anchors.
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Original Route
Grade 12
Climbs the central weakness.
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Self Circumcision
Grade 22
3 Bolt
10m Bound to happen if you start straddling the arete, so best stay to the left. Technical climbing on interesting holds.
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The Death Of Australian Cricket
Grade 18
Near the RH end of the crag is an obvious V groove/ R-facing corner. Climb the V groove to ledge (16), then up steeply through an OH and laidback groove (18)
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Sushi Groove
Grade 21
The next groove, just R. Climb two metres to small niche, then follow the LW curving crack through steep slab.
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Sow's Ear
Grade 20
20m Start of the left of the arête and climb the wall and arête past a bolt to gain a sloping ledge. Then up a small corner to a ramp below the first, smaller overhang. Pull through and climb the crack (crux) to the big roof; exit awkwardly to the left. Ring anchors are directly above.
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Stiff Upper Lip
Grade 22
Start just R of the arete. Climb up wall (small brass nut), moving R to small incut flake and good gear just below the sloping ledge. Gain ledge, move L and up into groove leading to small sloping ledge. Move up and R to gain steep crack leading to roof. Through this via crack at its widest point (crux)
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The Spine
Grade 18
Climb the lower wall as for Stiff Upper Lip and at the sloping ledge continue straight up the short wall above past a bolt (crux). Step on to the prow and clip the second bolt; finish directly up the arête. Ring anchors to the left.
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Fish ‘n’ Chips
Grade 17
Starting just to the right climb the wall angling right to meet the crack with two small flaxes, exiting right. Little protection before the crack.
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Fast Food
Grade 17
The complete crack, starting around to the right of the buttress, starting up a thin crack in the gully. Delicate climbing with micro-wires precedes a move into the wider crack, with improving protection and enjoyable climbing. Outflank the flax by moving to the right to gain the ledge. Either move left to an anchor station, or move up across the vegetation and romp up the obvious crack to the top.
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Mashed Potato
Grade 18
A few metres up and R again, climbing the rightmost crack past a pedastel.

Showing all routes 15 routes total Time 10 mins 755 m

Trad - 14 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 13 0 - 16

The centre of three detached cliffs left of the Main Cliff. The dominant feature of the crag is the left-facing corner of Reprobate, left of a buttress with red lichen.

Access: Continue along the track from the Main Cliff past the Right-hand Buttress, or traverse around from the Left-hand Buttress. DBAs exist at the top of Reprobate, Nostalgia's Not What It Used To Be, and 3 Two 1.

Attribution: Alan Hill

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Splitting Hairs
Grade 16
10m Short route at the far left, on grey rock. Climb a crack splitting the block; then step right and up the arête over horizontal cracks. Short but grim descent to the left through the scrub.
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Fawkes
Grade 16
Follow the slightly leftward trending groove for 10 metres, then move right to a ledge.
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Avant Gardener
Grade 18
Goes up the smooth prow. Start on the left and boulder up to the ledge, placing microwires left and below. Gain the ledge, with good wires in the crack. Climb on the left and place more micros above. Continue up past horizontal breaks with cams and anchor to a large block at the top. This climb is well-protected apart from the start, but expertise with microwires is required.
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Fluffy
Grade 15
18m Start at a small platform three metres left of Reprobate. Pull up steeply on positive holds (crux) with a small cam to the left to gain the corner. Then to the ledge and past a small roof to finish up a short corner and wall. Step right to the anchor for Reprobate.
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Reprobate
Grade 16
18m The most prominent line on the crag. From the same platform crash over the scrub to the easy-angled left-facing corner beside a buttress covered in red lichen. Easy climbing to a ledge, where it steepens with a thin crack for protection. Ring anchors at the top of the corner.
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Renegade
Grade 17
22m From the foot of Reprobate move right a metre, then climb the groove and wall above. At the ledge climb the groove just left of the prow to a horizontal crack, and then up the crack (crux) and pull around on to the prow to finish at the anchor.
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Recidivist
Grade 18
22m Slightly contrived, being squeezed into the central part of the buttress. Use the Nostalgia crack for the first piece of gear and then up to the overhang and pull through slightly left to the slab. Climb the prow directly (16, Justin Hall 2013) to a nice stance and two-bolt anchor.
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Nostalgia's Not What It Used To Be
Grade 15
15m Up the right side of the buttress to a semi-detached flake (protection), and straight on up past the right side of the summit nose directly to the anchors.
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RB Route
Grade 10
7 metres to the right is a wide groove climbed on the righthand side.
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Just One Scoop
Grade 13
Climbs the bulge and easy-angled wall 2 metres to the right of RB Route
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Impetuosity
Grade 14
15m Four metres right. Climb the easy prow with protection from a small totara to the left, then up past a ledge with good cracks leading to the top.
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Four Steps
Grade 15
30m Start on the second rib to the right and scramble to a vegetated ledge. Bridge up with gear on the left wall in a horizontal crack, but step right onto a block. Muscle up a steep crack (high step – crux) to gain the main ledge, and finish up corners and cracks to the summit. Walk down to the Renegade/Recidivist anchor.
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Just In Time
Grade 15
15m Start as for 3 Two 1 with the small cam placement, but move left and climb the corner-crack. Step right to the ledge and over a block before tacking the headwall as per 3 Two 1.
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3 two 1
Grade 16
15m At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, climb this sticking to the arête to tackle an overhang on good holds. A small friend protects the start.
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Russian Bear
Grade 15
12m At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, on its right hand side a crack leads easily up to a ledge under a short steep wall with a bolt and good holds.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 10 mins 640 m

Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21

A narrow buttress with a steep lower section easing off further up. There are vegetated gullies on both sides that can be used for access, and one set of anchor rings for abseiling.

Access: Continue along the track westward past an area of gorse.

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Recycled Recreation
Grade 17
20m On the very left of the Right Buttress. Climb the wall trending left under the overhang to the crack. Up past gorse to gain a ledge (crux), and then up the arête.
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Executioner The Second
Grade 19
20m Start from the same point to a thin crack on the right side of the arête. Easy climbing on to the wall, where the flaring crack provides protection with small offset wires. Gain the horizontal break (cam) and finish up the arête to a two-ring anchor.
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Falcon Crack
Grade 15
20m The obvious cleaned crack in the middle of the face. Up steeply with bridging to the right, and on past several bushes as the angle relents.
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Red Zone
Grade 14
20m Starts just to the right up the broken arête. Higher up the climb moves on to the face, picking up reasonable gear all the way.
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The Split Egg
Grade 16
15m Further right, up the gully a bit, is a crack with a small overhang.
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F ** k CERA
Grade 13
5m Joe has been skipping his anger management classes. A very short crack on the left margin of the cliff, up high. Access is from the base of the Right Buttress up the vegetated gully angling right to a pile of large boulders. Crawl between these and then walk across to the crack. Descend by walking to an anchor station and abseiling.
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Lost In Space
Grade 15
20m Start up Alpine Arête, climbing to the left, and up a short slab. Leap across the gorse leftward to gain the narrow arête. Up the airy and atmospheric rib with good but spaced protection. Anchor with a long sling and walk off to the right.
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Alpine Arete
Grade 13
25m Starts up the arête just where the track rises to meet the cliff. Optional protection in the crack on the right. Over the blocks and on up the arête all the way with reasonable protection. There is a DBA high up in the corner to the right at the top of Chimps.
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Crack In The Wall
Grade 17
25m From the same start move right along the dirt ledge to the crack. Intricate climbing at the start until the crack widens to hand size, then cruisy to the top.
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Chimps In The Mist
Grade 17
25m Just further right along the ledge – the obvious corner and crack. Anchor station at the top.
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Bloodless Coup
Grade 16
20m From the track climb a sliver of rock past the ledges to the undercut arête. (Good protection in the horizontal crack). Pull over on jugs and climb the arête on nice rock, placing up to 4 wires to reassure the belayer.
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The Jungle Book
Grade 13
20m Start among the trees at a slight corner and climb beside (and up?) a tree to more open rock. Up through a shrubbery following a cut track to a large block, Bridge up with good protection (crux) to gain the top corner. Excellent easy climb.
SA
Sequoia's Arete
Grade 21
22m Starts at a small buttress with a low bolt. Up over this and climb easily to the ledge (cams for protection). Climb the arête past three bolts.
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Que Sera, CERA?
Grade 19
28m Right-angling groove, accessed by scrambling up the broad featured prow (no protection). At the ledge place a cam behind the large block; then protection is from wires initially while bridging up the groove to join Cornucopia.
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Cornucopia
Grade 15
28m Follows the major low-angle corner with shrubs in the lower part. Copious holds lead up the corner to a series of blocks which appear to be stable and probably solid enough to take pro. Continue up the crack – hardest at the top.
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The Dyslexic Agnostic
Grade 16
25m Boulder up the undercut arête and follow the crack to the blocks at the left side of the overhang. Up into the open groove with several reasonable wires for pro. At the ledge climb the jam crack directly through the overhang and exit over the blocks. Anchor station to the right of the hanging block.
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Belle Epoque
Grade 15
28m This first route on the left side of the crag succeeded in finding a gorse-free line up the cliff, but this attitude has become unnecessary. Start below the triangular overhang and climb the lower wall, trending left to skirt the overhang. Past the blocks join the crack of Cornucopia and finish as for that route.
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Second-hand Rose
Grade 23
1 Bolt
25m The cleft splitting the large overhang in the middle of this wall. Easy to the overhang, clip the bolt and pull through. Good crack to the ledge; then up the steep finishing corner to anchors.
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Step To The Right
Grade 13
25m Starts up a crack left of the main corner, leading left past the small roof and under the large roof. Step right and out around the roof and climb the crack above (crux). Finish up the corner to a high anchor station.
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Barbed-wire Canoe
Grade 15
28m The main corner on the right of this wall. Bridge up past the overhangs to the easy finishing corner. Anchors high on the left wall of the corner.
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Walk on the Mild Side
Grade 23
20m Start up easy wall to cave, then move deviously through overhang to ramp and top.
BP
The Black Plague
Grade 17
25m Black wall and arête just left of Chocolate Frog, with two bolts. Fingery moves past the bolts lead to easier climbing to the roof (natural protection). Above the break (cams) move left to the arête and up on good holds to the anchor. This is usually the last route on the crag to dry.
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Chocolate Frog
Grade 14
15m An obvious black corner with two small trees which are useful as runners. Climb through the bulge and continue up the wide crack with protection on the left. Take slings and big gear.
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Deviant
Grade 17
20m Quite a good route. Climb most of Chocolate Frog, and above the bush traverse right onto the wall. Then up the crack and exit corner (crux). Good protection.
Ud
Undeviated
Grade 19
25m Start up Paradise Regained and clip the bolt with a sling, but then move straight up on to the slab to join the crack just right of the bush. Up the steepening crack (crux) and over the bulge on good holds. Finish up the top corner as for Deviant.
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Paradise Regained
Grade 16
15m Climb the wall right of Chocolate Frog to positive holds (crux); then right past a new bolt and up the crack just left of the arête. Steep but juggy finish to the ring anchors. Protection is spaced but okay.
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Paradise Refound
Grade 15
20m An interesting and worth-while link-up. Start as for the next route by bouldering up a steep rounded groove (not included in the grading). Place gear and move left to the arête; then left to link up with Paradise Regained for a section before moving back around the arête and finishing up the easy knobbly face. Take plenty of slings for extending runners.
PR
Paradise Roof
Grade 18
20m Through the roof, following a thin crack. Start two metres right of the arête and boulder up a steep groove to gain the crack and first protection. Slightly left to engage the roof and pull through. Easy climbing up the corner follows. From the platform climb three metres to the ledge. A chain and ring anchor is just to the left.
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Paradise Lost
Grade 16
15m Start as for the previous route (or further right) but take the right-leaning ramp, bridging to the hanging arête. (Marginal large cam in horizontal slot). Carefully up without pro to reach a thin crack, and easily to the top.
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Sticky Fingers
Grade 17
20m A direct line following a thin crack which leads to the V-groove higher up. Boulder up the groove and place gear in the horizontal crack; then climb the face above with wires to gain the finger crack (crux). A few moves passes this to land on the slopers and vege, followed by the easy finishing groove.
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The Psychedelic Era
Grade 14
20m Climb the obvious dog-leg crack all the way, following it as it kinks to the right to parallel The Shoveller. Finish over the big blocks, or either left or right.
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Addendum
Grade 14
20m Start up a slab on the left side of The Shoveller to a thin crack, and climb the wall just left of the crack. Then up into the flaring crack above to finish.
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Dark Matter
Grade 18
25m A direct route between the cracks. Start as for Addendum (clip the bolt) and climb to the left of the corner, crossing the crack where it veers right and continuing up the wall to its left (pro) to meet a thin crack leading to the top.
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The Shoveller
Grade 13
25m A prominent left-facing corner, with steep bridging at the top, exiting to the right past the block.
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No Horror
Grade 16
20m Another link-up. Climb most of The Shoveller before moving right to the finish of Bygone Error.
BE
Bygone Error
Grade 19
25m The arete on the left. Climbed mostly on the right past 4 bolts. Steep finish directly over blocks with excellent cams and wires. Take care on the large detached block.
UH
The Ultimate Horror
Grade 16
20m A classic, varied testpiece with some great moments. A wall which was serious before it sprouted two bolts leads to a headwall with well-protected bulges. Sustained.
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A Main's Calling
Grade 21
20m Probably 22. A direct finish to A Pleasant Interlude. From the ledge pull up past a bolt to a jug on the lip.
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Pleasant Interlude
Grade 19
Start as for TUH with a cam placement and angle across and rightwards of a small triangular roof. Pass two bolts on their left to gain easier ground, with a run-out to gear. From the blocks finish up overhanging leaning hand crack to right.
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Gorsegeous Groove
Grade 16
20m Start up the corner past the gorse stumps and gain the crack on the right to skirt a gungy section, climbing past a flax bush. Then back to the corner for a squeeze chimney/off-width struggle to summit.
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Hubble
Grade 19
25m Up an obvious crack curving slightly left, with good jams. Step left and cruise up the crack to the crux on the headwall, where a hard pull gains the top crack.
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Space Spirals
Grade 16
25m Start as for the previous route up the crack (crux), and continue up the right fork of the crack.
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Seismi City
Grade 18
25m Start in the corner and move left with fingery moves to the first bolt; then up the arête past the second bolt to good holds. Place gear and climb the right side of the crack and directly up the slab with gear in the two horizontal breaks.
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Deforestation
Grade 17
20m An obvious corner and crack, steepening to a bulge about 8 metres up. Climb the crack and continue through the bulge, or step left to thin cracks. Easier climbing up the vegetated crack, concluding with the left-leaning ramp.
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L'Abre Day
Grade 18
Start below the arete to the left of Flowers In The Night. Swarm up the tree, then move right onto the wall. Climb thin cracks (poor pro) and through the roof to join Flowers In The Night.
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Flowers in the Night
Grade 16
15m Up the slope on the left flank of Gorse Gully. Start in a short corner, then bridge past a block, move left to a rib, and on up the arête.
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Dead Heroes
Grade 19
4 Bolt
15m Start from a small tree on the left side of Gorse Gully and move up to a big jug. Follow the holds and bolts to a horizontal break. Up and left to the groove to exit (crux). The four bolts were added in 2011.
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Gorse Gully Left
Grade 11
10m The chimney of the left side of the major vegetated gully, finishing over blocks.
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Climbing 101
Grade 17
10m Walk up through the flax to the broad buttress in the centre of the gully and scramble up the easy start with good holds and protection in the crack to the right. Surmount the halfway ledge, and then move delicately up the left side of the slab with protection well below to meet a short crack. Then awkwardly past the jammed block to gain the top ledge, and move right to the Diploma anchor.
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Gorse Gorse Right
Grade 13
10m Corner with good bridging on the the right of Gorse Gully.
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Acid Queen
Grade 17
6m A short overhanging crack on the upper right wall of Gorse Gully, starting from Gorse Gully Right.
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Diploma
Grade 14
15m A really good little route. Start directly in the gully and climb the crack, exiting up the steep, wide crack splitting the top block. Commonly started as for N.S.U. with a move to the left about halfway.
NSU
N.S.U.
Grade 15
20m Not as poxy as the name suggests. Climb the crack on the prow to the headwall. The normal finish is a committing mantle straight over the top, although it is progressively easier as you move right.
E
Eliminator
Grade 18
18m An excellent, bold wall route. Start 3m R of N.S.U. under a thin crack. Follow this, then move L on to the arete.
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Super Vegeman
Grade 13
20m A prominent vegetated corner. Exit L or R. I solo top-roped this using a prussik and carrying a pack, a bag(?), and a slasher!
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Falaise Malaise
Grade 20
20m A metre right of Super Vegeman. Boulder up past two bolts and balance up to a ledge; then up on good holds to a second crux at mid height which is climbed on the left. Finish up a hand crack and a V-groove. Retro-bolted.
O
Oblivion
Grade 16
22m Delicate moves with little pro on a steep wall lead to a very pleasant corner. A good route but not one to fall off at the bottom.
VC
Voie Classique
Grade 17
Start in a thin seam two metres right of Oblivion and move into the seam to the left for a few metres (good protection), then back to the right. From the horizontal break reach high and pull left on to the ledge; finish up the crack.
F
Falter
Grade 22
24m Apparently this climb is gooood. Directly up the Altar wall and bulging headwall (don't F.!). Pro in horizontal break.
A
Altar
Grade 21
24m This spectacular arête line was spotted and toproped as early as 1973, but it was left to John Allen to make the first lead. Start either up the shallow groove on the arête past 2 bolts, or on the L wall with little or no pro. Up the overhanging bit on the R, then move L at the horizontal break and exit.
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CERA The Terror
Grade 18
25m Start in the right-facing corner of Altar past 2 retro bolts and veer rightwards to finish near the top of Claymore.
C
Claymore
Grade 16
22m The huge black corner prominent from the road, steepening towards the top. Since recent cleaning the start has become much harder, with some thin bridging. Above this climb past vegetation to the steep finish, which is more intimidating than difficult. Good protection.
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Path de Pierre
Grade 19
22m The left line on the wall right of Claymore. Start below a small, short corner; climb this to gain the easy slab(directly over the bulge at the first bolt is 21), and continue up an irregular break to the ledge. Exit over blocks to the CdP anchor rings. Five bolts (after retrobolting), with gear to finish.
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Cheniv de Pierre
Grade 21
22m Start as for Little Vibrator and continue up the face, using protection in the crack to the right to reach a small ledge. Move up on small slopey holds (crux), passing two bolts on their right to gain the obvious finger crack. Climb this and step right to the anchors. This route feels very contrived as there is much easier climbing just to the right.
LV
Little Vibrator
Grade 17
22m Starts in the middle of the wall R of C. at a small crack. Just below vegetation in the crack move R to a ledge and up the central one of three cracks to a sloping ledge. Step L up crack to ring anchors.
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Cabbage Milkshake
Grade 22
22m **RetroBolted** Climb the groove which rears into an overhang (crux) past two bolts. Then up a thin crack on a steep wall with adequate gear then finish up Little Vibrator to DBA. ** Wiggly block in the middle of route seems to be keyed in well, for the moment**
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Eleanor
Grade 17
20m The arching corner. Spaced protection up the corner, followed by small gear in a thin crack on the slab to reach a traverse rightward along the ramp. Finish up the thin crack.
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Space Inflation
Grade 17
5 Bolt
20m Up the first slab on good holds trending right past four bolts to the break (optional gear placement). Traverse right to the 5th bolt and climb the face directly (crux) to gain the mantle finish. Ring hangers just to the right.
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Forewarned And Forearmed
Grade 18
25m Starts up the wall just left of Greenfingers, with good holds to clip the second and third bolts of Space Inflation. Above the break climb leftward through the roof crack (crux), and up the exit crack past the flax. Anchor to bolts at the top of Cheniv de Pierre.
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Greenfingers
Grade 17
20m Vegetated corner and V-chimney. Bridge up past the flax and pull up on good holds trending right (crux) to the V-groove. Chimney up the V. The last bolt on Space Pooh can be clipped if needed.
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Space Pooh
Grade 16
5 Bolt
20m The second slab right of the corner. Starts at a very low bolt, then up and right to the break. Pull on to the top slab (crux) and climb left of the 4th bolt and past the 5th to the anchor rings.
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Retrospective
Grade 18
20m Start in the shrubbery and climb under and over the five-finger tree, with a stretch above the protection to clip the bolt. Pull through on spaced jugs and balance up the slab (cam to right). At the undercut vegetated corner-crack move up and right onto the small platform (delicate and committing), and balance up the headwall past the horizontal breaks. Walk right to the anchor.
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The Constant Gardener
Grade 16
20m A metre right, this is the left of two cracks near the log. Steep crack easing after the start. Climb past a vegetated section (sling the totara) and over the bushy ledge. Climb the undercut off-width crack and over an apparently secure jammed boulder.
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The Tailor Of Panama
Grade 17
20m Directly above the large log that marks the start of the track to the car-park. Steep start up the overhanging crack and wall to the right with limited gear. Then up the slab to the scrubby ledge. Place a good cam under the overhang, and either climb the undercut crack, or move left about a metre and pull on to the wall with good holds. DBA.
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Greenstick Fracture
Grade 19
20m At the log across the track go right five metres to this obvious finger crack. Balancy climbing with good protection on a great line. At the top place gear to protect the second and move left five metres to the anchor.