Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 50 routes total

Alpine - 46 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

The Taramakau Valley gives access to several peaks at the North Western end of Arthur's Pass National Park

Attribution: Srewart Robertson

Showing all routes 1 route total 1786 m

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Mount Koeti sits between the Taramakau Valley and the headwaters of the Poulter River

Access: best climbed from the Townsend Hut

Attribution: Stewart Robertson

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Koeti from the Taramakau Valley
Grade 0
Townsend Hut is at around 1170 m above the Taramakau River.--best to count gullies as you walk up the valley. The start of the track up from the river is well marked. From the hut the main ridge is easly gained and followed along to the peak.

Showing all routes 49 routes total

Alpine - 45 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

The track leaves from a car-park beside SH 73, just north of Arthur’s Pass summit.

Access: This relatively easy graded track follows up a deep alpine valley on the northern side of Mt Rolleston. It climbs over an old glacial moraine, then follows the contour through subalpine scrub and tussock to the Otira River foot-bridge, continue upstream on the true right to approach the Otira Slide.

Showing all routes 12 routes total 1967 m

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Alpine - 12 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
Mt%20philistine rolleston%20glacier routemark

tba

Attribution: Photos: Graeme Kates

H
Warnocks Bluff
Grade 0
Climbed from the Otira Valley. Where the foot-bridge crosses the Otira River (about halfway up the valley) follow a vague track that crosses the vegetated moraine wall high on the true left. It then zigzags up the scree slide that leads to the base of the bluffs separating Warnocks Knob from Philistine’s East Ridge. Connecting ramps and gullies, find a path through the bluffs, giving access to the easier slopes above. In winter these bluffs are extremely dangerous when covered in loose snow or ice. An alternative route through the bluffs follows a stepped creek found further to the north, though this has similar winter problems. Above the bluffs continue following the ridge, staying true left of the east ridge buttress, then climbing snow slopes to join the saddle adjacent the Rolleston Glacier. The loose main ridge is easily climbed from here.
Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
Mt philistine routes revisedMt%252520lancelot from%252520southeast routemark 0

Difficult direct face routes or ice gully climbs are present from the Upper Otira Valley by way of the Philistine Bluffs. The most popular of these is the Philistine Ramp, which follows an avalanche chute to the southwest corner of the Rolleston Glacier. Most other routes top out under the East Ridge buttress or the Rolleston Glacier icefall. From the névé of the Rolleston Glacier, routes can also be chosen that follow steep snow slopes or loose rock ribs to join the Philistine-Rolleston ridge. Use Warnock’s Bluff Route or the Philistine Ramp Route (to the left) for descent.

Attribution: Photo: Graeme Kates

A
Philistine Ramp
Grade 0
Only in conditon late spring early summer due to build up of avalanche debris. Follwow obvious avalanche chute towards SW corner of Rolleston Gl. Some seasons the headwall can be vertical ice. An alternative rock route climbs through the gullies and slabs on the true right of the ravine.
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Zero Gully
Grade 0
Ice only. 3rd avalanche gut upstream from the bridge.
B
Waterfall Route
Grade 0
Rock or Ice. 2nd avalanche gully above the bridge
C
Grade 2+
Grade 0
Rock or Ice. Starts on slope betwwen the first two avalanche gullies above bridge.
D
Grade 3+
Grade 0
Rock only. Start directly under a 60deg crack system that runs into the wall on to East Ridge of Philistine. Climb vertically to the left of the crack for 25m on poor pro to intersect parallel 60deg crack, avoiding moss & water. Continue climbing crack untila small terrace is reached. Break left onto a broad, less steep facemoving upwards to a gut theat tops out onto screes under the East Ridge.
E
The Bone Collector
Grade 4.75
(Rock or ice). Follow faint buttress line diagonally right through mixed ground for 5 pitches, traverse left at a short wall and up a short couloir to climb steep ice covered slabs and then head diagonnally right over exposed mixed ground to a short 4m wall ( extremely loose rock), climb delicately over this to reach steep snow at first and then onto the main snowfield below Mt Philistine. Return via route H
F
Right Ramp
Grade 0
Ice Only. Climb Scree from bridge towards the massive boulder at its head. The route climbs the 45deg RH ramp for 50m, then up steep buttress rock to meet a sweeping RH couloir. After 40m this leads into a less steep gully for a further 150m climbing parallel to a wall on the true R. The head breaks out onto the avalanche slopes underneath the East Ridge of Philistine.
G
Diagonal Gully
Grade 0
Ice Only. From bridge follow normal Warnock’s Bluff route, however stay in large scree gully. The obvious gully that runs across to the left as you look up is met at the head of the scree. 2 ½ easy pitches gain a small saddle followed by a traverse into a steeper snow field. The gully line is picked up, more steeply to join the broad ridge above.
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Double Blind Route
Grade 0

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From Rolleston River Track
Grade 0
Climbable via the giant gully that rises steeply for 1100 metres from the Rolleston River track (1.5km upstream of the railway bridge). This gut can be threatened by rock or ice fall in almost any season, and is invariably a very steep ice/loose scree climb for the final 200 metres to the col between Mt Philstine and its northwest summit (1780m). Warnocks Knob should be used as the preferred descent route.
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From Head of Rolleston River
Grade 0
From the head of the Rolleston River, climb via a steep, narrow couloir. This leaves the river via initial scree (K33 885121) and proceeds into a narrow rock gut for 200m before opening out to onto another scree slope. Keep the adjacent rock on the true left. Towards the top ascend diagonal rock gullies to join the west ridge on to the summit. Post winter route when avalanche risk is low.

Showing all routes 25 routes total 2275 m

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Alpine - 24 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Ap001 0Crow%2520glacier%2520icefall routemark 1 0

waimak/otira

Attribution: Photo; Graeme Kates

Showing all routes 11 routes total 2212 m

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Alpine - 11 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ap023Ap016

Low Peak

Attribution: Colin Monteath, Hedgehog House Graham Kates

1
From Crow Glacier
Grade 0
From the northeastern reaches of the Crow neve. It may be ascended on either its East or West Ridges. The crux in this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow Valley. Beware of hidden crevasses.
RR
Rome Ridge
Grade 0

GR
Goldney Ridge
Grade 0
Begins at the top of Arthur’s Pass (920m). Enter the Dobson Nature Walk opposite the memorial, taking the right-hand branch towards the Otira Valley. Where the track nears the scree chutes, bash through the scrub and follow the chutes through the bluffs to the wide open ridge above. The ridge suddenly narrows prior the first massive buttress. Sidle for about 150 metres onto the Bealey River ßank then ascend the steep scree to regain the ridge. Easy travel takes you to the summit of the second buttress. The third can be reached or bypassed on the Otira Valley side, and can involve some steep rock pitches (beware of large cornices in winter). A craggy ridge leads to the head of the Otira Slide icefield. See (route 6.3) for a description beyond here. The Goldney Ridge route is seldom climbed in its entirety as climbers prefer the less time consuming Otira Slide route.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Ap001

The Crow Face rises from the East Crow Glacier to the Low Peak of Mt Rolleston. Most of the routes on the face utilise narrow couloirs, aretes and shelves, and conditions on each vary greatly depending on the season. During winter cornices form on the Rome Ridge over the East Crow, with loose snow avalanches causing some concern.

Attribution: Graham Kates

1
Left Rib
Grade 0
320m Can have a difficult start due to bergschrunds and lack of snow ramps. Move left up the ramp to a large gully (sometimes snow filled), then gain the rocky arete joining the South West Ridge of the Low Peak.
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Central-left
Grade 2.75
Sustained neve ice up to join central direct 100m from the top
2
Central Direct
Grade 0
400m Commences in the same place as Left Rib route, with all the same difficulties. Follow the obvious gully most of the way to the summit; a split near the top allows two different finishes. Rockfall can be a hazard, as is rotten rock top and bottom
3
Right Couloir
Grade 0
250m A large bergschrund may cause a desperate move at the bottom on a somewhat smooth slab. Venture up the rib into gully that turns to a narrow steep couloir at the top. Follow Rome Ridge to its summit. Some avalanche danger!
4
Right Gully
Grade 0
320m The line is in an obvious runnel with a difficult slab start (dependent on the height of the snow ramp). There can be loose rock in the top half of gully; snow or ice fill certainly assists. Join Rome Ridge to the summit.
OS
Otira Slide
Grade 0
3 The Otira Slide route to MT ROLLESTON (2275m) is the climbers preferred ascent route to join the Goldney Ridge, and is certainly the most used and quickest descent route. From the Otira Valley car-park follow the walking trail towards the head of the valley. After the foot-bridge the trail is less defined, and the entire area is avalanche prone in winter. It takes about 90 min to reach the base of the Otira Slide icefield. (It is unwise to ascend the slide in darkness because of the high avalanche and rockfall risk in this area. Arrive there at first light if anything!) Climb the iceÞeld on the true-right, aiming for the wide couloir at its head that joins the Goldney Ridge. Climb the ridge rock, or drop onto the head of the Goldney Glacier and regain the ridge. Move away from the ridge crest, instead opting to climb the steep shallow gully that leads directly to Low Peak (2212m). If in doubt aim for the large solitary orange rock jutting out of the face, Low Peak is directly behind it. (Grade. 1+) An alternative route from the Slide, is to climb directly onto the face between Low and Middle Peaks. An obvious steep gully (Hidden Couloir) joins the ridge between these summits. It is avalanche prone, and contains loose rock. It must be frozen! (Grade. 2-) Once Low Peak is gained and if the Crow neve is not too crevassed, head for the col past Middle Peak, gaining the ridge to High Peak from there. Otherwise climb over Middle Peak. Note : The Otira Slide may be descended in winter on downhill/telemark skis. You must be an extremely competent skier, and have good avalanche assessment skills.
A
Bealy Face
Grade 0
The head of the Bealey River Valley provides a hand-full of diverse/adverse routes onto Low Peak (2212m). All routes are accessed from the upper basin. Gain the Bealey Scree by climbing the tussock slopes true left of the first obvious ravine. Follow a small creek then a fault scarp that traverses under the Goldney Ridge buttress. Sidle out over scree or very steep rock to the base of the climbs. The first route commences on the true right at the base of the long, loose, tortuous gully (400m) that finds its way to the Gap on the Rome Ridge (route 6.1). The arete on its true left is also climbable (beware of avalanches). Further to the true left several routes pick their respective ways up buttressed rock faces for about 300m before intersecting the Goldney Glacier. From here, a multitude of routes may be selected which follow snow or rock ramps to Low Peak (the Goldney Ridge is also easily gained). The easiest route on the face (Chockstone Route) starts underneath a prominent spur joining the Goldney Ridge to the far true left. A narrow gully containing the jammed boulder is climbed, followed by a series of easy scree/snow ramps to join the Goldney Ridge where it merges with Low Peak.
B
From the Head of the Bealey River
Grade 0
Approaches from the head of the Bealey River are reached by climbing the slope on the true left of the Bealey River adjacent the start of the black ravine (follow a creek initially). Climb towards, and traverse the fault scarp that sidles west under the Goldney Ridge buttress to meet the huge scree/snow slope. Ascend the couloir that joins the Goldney Ridge between Low Peak and the first ridge buttress (prominent low point). The climb to Low Peak (2212m) is relatively easy going on rock or snow from the ridge.
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From Upper Waimakariri Col
Grade 0
climbed from the head of the valley near Waimakariri Col. Snow slopes lead up towards the neve of a glacier running north of MT ROLLESTON. Climb the obvious gully joining the Philistine Ridge, then 70m above the neve take the narrow, steep couloir (Sampson's) on the true left. This joins the Southwest Ridge after a climb of 120m. Traverse the short distance to High Peak. The peak may also be approached more directly by the broken rock buttresses of the Philistine Ridge.
1
From Crow Valley
Grade 0
The usual route, after leaving the valley floor, is to climb towards the icefall and then travel beside it on the west until Crow neve is reached. The two obvious gullies to the true right of the icefall are the best options, but beware of avalanches after fresh snowfall. In summer large pinnacles of ice crash down the bluffs on the true left. The ridge may be cut off by deep crevasses late in the season. From there the three peaks of Mt Rolleston are accessible a) LOW PEAK (2212m) can be reached easily from the northeastern reaches of the Crow neve. The crux in this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow Valley. Beware of hidden crevasses

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2200 m

Ap001 1

Otira Crow

Attribution: Graham Kates

1
From Crow Glacier
Grade 0
from the northeastern reaches of the Crow neve. It may be ascended on either its East or West Ridges. The crux in this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow Valley. Beware of hidden crevasses.
Ap023 1

Routes on the 900-metre Otira Face to the Middle Peak of Mt Rolleston are for experienced parties only. More often than not the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!

Visibility plays a major role in a successful and safe climb of the Otira Face, and if poor could lead to major epics on the Middle Peak routes.

Routes on the Otira face of the High Peak are listed separately.

 

Attribution: Colin Monteath, Hedgehog House

A
Middle Direct
Grade 0
The arete on the left-hand side of the central gut is the most direct line to Middle Peak. It is a loose, long haul. It has claimed many lives in its short history of ascents. Route finding towards the top of this face tends to be quite messy; nearly everybody manages to concoct an original finish.
B
Middle Rib
Grade 0

A
High Peak from Crow Gl
Grade 0
Ascended from the Crow neve by a myriad of rock gullies or aretes joining the West Ridge of High Peak. Most of these routes tend to be single pitch climbs dependant on snow ramp heights, and the presence of bergschrunds. Protection is sparse in summer conditions, however the rock grades are very low.
B
High Peak Direct from Crow Gl
Grade 0
120m A rock (summer) or ice (winter) route exists on the Southern Face directly below the summit of High Peak (2275m). Access is difficult due to the very large bergschrund at the base of the face. Ascent is made up a shallow diagonal gully directly to the peak. Protection is minimal in summer.
C
High Peak From Crow Glacier
Grade 0
Ascended easily using the Eastern Ridge from the col adjacent Middle Peak. Approach the col from directly below on the Crow neve to avoid at least some major crevasse zones. The first buttress on this ridge is turned on it’s southern flank.
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Philistine-Rolleston Traverse
Grade 0
Climbed by traversing the ridge from Mt Philistine (1967m), a very long climb generally on loose rock, with many obstacles. Most gendarmes can be turned on narrow ledges (catwalks). Beware of cornices in winter to late spring. Be prepared for a forced bivy should your start route to either summit be a face climb. Some ropework may be required.
Alpine - 4 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Ap023 2

For experienced parties, a diversity of routes may be taken up the 900m Otira Face of Mt Rolleston. Some of the routes are very difficult, and more often than not, the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!

Routes on the Otira Face of the Middle Peak are listed separately.

 

Attribution: Colin Monteath, Hedgehog House

A
Otira Couloir
Grade 0
This route leads up the dangerous central gut between High and Middle Peaks. It is prone to continuous avalanche activity in winter, and rockfall in summer. Climbers generally choose to join the Philistine Ridge near the upper snow basin.
B
Left Flank
Grade 0
From the snow/scree Field at the base of the Central Direct route keep moving left until the nose of a rocky arete is reached. Climb on generally exposed rock, with poor protection, to join the Philistine Ridge.
C
Central Direct
Grade 0
This route, on the right-hand side of the central gut is by far the most popular (not only because it tops out on High Peak). Most of the climb takes place on the prominent buttress that appears to lead directly to High Peak. The buttress is reached by climbing from the Otira Valley onto the permanent snow-field at its base, via either the loose green bluffs and ramps (adjacent the central gully), or better still the narrow couloir that joins the Philistine-Rolleston Ridge (a route in its own right). Routes on the buttress are many and varied. The rock is surprisingly solid, and the ensuing 500 metres is a climb to be relished. In contrast the next 200 metres is upon the stacked blocks and broken buttresses of the Philistine-Rolleston Ridge. The final 50 metres is good solid rock and is easily climbed to High Peak.
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Westweg
Grade 15
150m The Central Direct ridge can be gained on its West side by a 150m long banana shaped corner rising above the snow field. The final 60 meters offers the best climbing on either face of the corner, offering either good rock and poor protection or loose rock and good protection.
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Headstone Gully
Grade 2.25
250m The route follows the gully to the right of the access for Central Direct (Mt Rolleston -Otira Face). Climb to the top of the scree slope at the base of the climb and join the gully from there. The climbing on the lower half of the route is on reasonably solid rock and is relatively straightforward. The rock gets looser as you approach the prominent overhang/ roof at about 2/3 height, there is possibilities for good anchor on right hand side of overhang (small cams helpful e.g. .5 camalot and smaller). Climb around overhang via weakness on wall at right side (crux), this section is tricky but is protectable and leads to easier ground. A couple of short scree tiers lead to the final gully system. Climb these gullies to the ridge top. The top gullies are insecure and offer limited chance for protection. Climb to summit via Philistine-Rolleston Ridge

Showing all routes 3 routes total

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Image02

The slabs on the true right of the upper Otira River.

Attribution: Graham Kates

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Fly My Pretties
Grade 16
48m Traverse along the ramp then straight up. Crux is near the top. Good gear placements but requires a bit of a clean. Good anchors at the top. Scramble up and belay on the obvious ledge or you'll run out of rope!
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Sonam
Grade 15, 15
1. 45m Belay on the higher ledge and head up and right. Straight up through the scrappy section then into a prominant crack that takes good gear.
2. 25m Start near middle of wall and head slightly left. Poor pro.
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Kea Kindergarten
Grade 14
25m Right trending weakness to the right of the 2nd pitch of 'Sonam'. Well featured and good placements for large wires/small hexes and mid range SLCDs.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

Goat Pass to Highway 73 via Deception River

Access: From Goat Pass, a marked track through the scrub descends to the upper Deception River. The route now takes the form of scrambles, rock-hopping down the riverbed, and adjacent bush; very rarely is it on a marked trail. The Upper Deception Hut is reached in approximately one hour, on the true right. Continue in or beside the riverbed for a further 2 1/2 hours until it opens out to a large flat, on the true left just below Gorge Creek. Past the flat, the river narrows into a gorge. A footbridge spans the river at this point. Maintain the true left side of the riverbed, descending on down the lower gorge for two more hours to the open flat where the Otira River meets the Deception River. Cross the Deception to the true right before the junction. The Morrison Footbridge across the Otira River is just north of the confluence. Note: The Mingha-Deception route is all but impossible in times of heavy rain, or rapid snow melt!

Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
Ap028

A very imposing pinnacle of rock. On many occasions it still manages to pierce the notorious West Coast cloud (something of a redeeming quality). It is by far the best climb east of Arthur’s Pass.

Attribution: Graham Kates. Colin Montieth, Hedgehoghouse.com

1
West Ridge
Grade 0
Approached from Good Luck Creek via the Deception River, alternatively via the denesly wooded spur that leaves the Deception River at K33 974151, on the true left of the stream that drains the Franklin-Russell escarpment. This ridge is notoriously long and loose, and has multiple gendarmes. Once committed to this route, there are no escape routes, however travel tends to be fast over large sections of it. Considered a mid spring climb when ice clings to it.
2
From Deception River
Grade 0

3
South West Ridge from Goat Pass Hut
Grade 0
Ascended from opposite Goat Pass Hut utilising the obvious deep gully and notch. A generally straightforward ascent joins the col above Lake Anna, then climbs the steep South Ridge to the summit.
4
South West Ridge and South Ridge
Grade 0
This route can be climbed in winter to late spring by reaching the head of the Deception River from Goat Pass Hut. Scree or snow slopes head through the lower bluff to reach the steep snowfield (avalanche danger!) below the 1975m South West Ridge rocks. In a normal season three 150m couloirs gain the South West Ridge. Alternatively, gain the ridge lower down by utilising the obvious deep gully and notch directly opposite Goat Pass Hut. Continue along the ridge to gain the col separating Lakes Anna and Sally. Ascend the steep South Ridge to the summit. Return via the Deception River route (2).
5
Mt Oates-Mt Franklin Ridge
Grade 0
This ridge is a very long journey from Goat Pass and would be better tackled from a camp near Lake Mavis. Gain the ridge along the Main Range above the lake, following its initially broad back to the second knoll (1864m). From here the ridge narrows, taking a steep approach to the summit of the next buttress (1876m). The ridge turns west over the exposed slabs above Lake Sally and the deep gut of the upper Deception, climbing steeply over broken ground to join the South West Ridge. From here descend to the col above Lake Anna then climb the steep South Ridge to the summit. Be well prepared for a forced bivvy as it is a very long day’s outing!

There are a few routes from the Lake Sally basin.

Access: Lake Sally is at best difficult to approach and a high camp is strongly recommended under the knoll near its outflow. Access to the lake is gained by the ridge and loose bush covered slopes south of the stream which drains it, from the Otehake River West Branch. Alternatively ascend the slopes on the north side of the same stream, sidling around the base of the East Ridge to reach the lake. Eastern descents from Mt Franklin tend to be very steep, natural anchors allowing abseils directly onto the snowfield are available. Under winter conditions the routes can all be fraught by overhanging cornices.

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Way Down Sally
Grade 4.75

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East Ridge
Grade 0

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Upper East Snowfield Couloirs
Grade 0

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North East Ridge
Grade 0

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