Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 82 routes total

Alpine - 82 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

The Godley offers distinct appeal for those looking for country less frequented than the adjoining Aoraki/Mount Cook region. Climbing is popular, especially on Mt D’Archiac - the highest peak in the area, but the Godley is probably best known for its world class ski touring country. For those looking specifically for information on ski touring a brief list of routes is provided.

Access: The Godley is relatively untouched and provides not only remoteness but also a sense of timelessness - it’s well worth a visit. Glacial recession is evident throughout the valleys east of the Main Divide, but nowhere is it more striking than in the Godley region. The Godley glaciers continue to show the most dramatic retreat of all glaciers in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. In 1862 when Julius Haast visited the area the Godley, Maud and Grey Glaciers joined to form one major valley glacier but they have each retreated to the point where they are now completely separate. Access is more difficult than in other parts of the Aoraki/Mount Cook region and typically requires a 4WD vehicle to get well up the valleys. Also, there are no high huts. Glacial recession has made access to routes during summer more difficult. However, in winter, frozen lakes can sometimes provide easy and unique access. Due to the ongoing changes, some approach routes described here may not continue to be the best way to gain the upper valleys and glaciers – so check with park staff and the hut books in the area to gain the most up-to-date access information. The Godley region is most commonly accessed by vehicle from Tekapo via the Lilybank Road. However, the road on the west side of the Godley River, the Godley Peaks Road is also used to gain access to the peaks on the Liebig Range. The Havelock and Forbes valleys are used for 4WD and foot access from the east. A number of high alpine passes and saddles also allow passage from valleys in the east, north and west. These include: the saddle north of The Ant-hill (from the Murchison) and Classen Saddle (from the upper Murchison), Terra Nova Pass (from the Havelock River), Stewart and Sealy Passes (both from the Perth River) and Grey Pass (from the Butler River). From Tekapo via Lilybank Road On the eastern side of the Tekapo township, turn off Highway 8 onto the unsealed Lilybank Road and follow this for approximately 20 km to the Macaulay River. Although this stretch of road is navigable by 2WD vehicles the remaining 47 km is strictly 4WD only. Crossing the Macaulay River, for example, is a serious proposition, even for proper 4WD vehicles (read: low clearance 4WD vehicles will not survive). Two 4WD’s vehicles are recommended so you can pull out bogged vehicles. Beyond the Macaulay River the road leads to Lilybank Station, to the left of the main buildings. Public access to the Godley Valley, and thus Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, is both legal and permitted – so please don’t call in to the station for permission. However, please note that no legal access exists up Weka Stream or North Branch Stream. So don’t venture up these streams or onto any pastoral land held by Lilybank Station without permission. The road weaves between farm sheds and barns past pine trees to follow a fenceline. Leave gates as you find them. Past the station the ‘road’ becomes a route. It turns out onto the Godley River flats and proceeds up valley. The route, which is punctuated with sections of old road and cairns, remains on the eastern side of the valley. A sign welcoming you to AMCNP is situated about 5 km before Red Stag Hut, which in turn is located about 5 km from the road end and peters out near to Separation Stream. A vague foot track starts on the north side of Separation Stream and travels along the eastern edge of the lower Godley Lake for about 300m. Godley Hut is situated up on a moraine shelf, ten or so minutes past FitzGerald Stream. On the western side of the Classen Lake outflow is the Eade Memorial Hut. The hut is situated about 700m downstream of the lake outlet and up on a high terrace. Access via the western side of the Godley Valley is also possible. The unsealed Godley Peaks Road turns off the main road between Tekapo and its airport. Godley Peaks Station, situated just past the Cass River, is about 18 km from the township. A 4WD road continues past the station. Permission from Godley Peak Station should be sought for access beyond this point. The Macaulay Valley is situated east of the Godley Valley and can be accessed by 4WD (depending on river and snow conditions). Cross the Macaulay River as detailed above, turn right before Lilybank Station and continue up the true right of the valley. Macaulay Hut sits on the Lower Tindill Stream fan, 19 km up the valley. The Godley-Macaulay Conservation Area (the area contained between the Two Thumb Range, the Godley and Macaulay rivers and McKinnon Stream) and Mt Sibbald can be accessed from this hut. For more information about this amazing section of high country contact DoC at either Aoraki/Mount Cook or Twizel. Although 4WD access is faster and easier, some parties have used mountain bikes to gain the upper reaches of the Godley and Macaulay valleys. Shelter Red Stag Hut. Owned by the New Zealand Deerstalkers Association (NZDA), has four bunks and some kitchen equipment (~950m, grid ref: 082-371). Godley Hut. Owned by the NZAC, has eight bunks, a mountain radio (link to Christchurch) and some kitchen utensils (~1110m, grid ref: 086-445). Eade Memorial Hut. Owned by the NZDA, has 4-6 bunks (~980m, grid ref: 065-401). Macaulay Hut. Owned and operated by the Mackenzie Alpine Trust (Lake Tekapo), has 14 bunks, cooking facilities, a mountain radio (link to Christchuch) and solar lights. This hut was built for the wider community through generous community support and voluntary labour. Times Tekapo to Macaulay River, by 4WD vehicle ~ 45mins. Macaulay River to Red Stag Hut by 4WD ~1.5hrs. Red Stag Hut to Godley Hut, by foot 1.5 – 2hrs. Separation Stream to Godley Hut, by foot ~ 35mins. Separation Stream to Eade Memorial Hut ~ 1hr (the Godley and possibly Classen rivers will need to be crossed – this may not be possible in some conditions). Tekapo to Macaulay Hut, by 4WD ~ 2.5hrs.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2410 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Twilight Col
Grade 0
Climb the rock ridge directly from Twilight Col.
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South East Ridge
Grade 1.25
Reach the south face glacier from the head of the Macaulay River and follow the final section of ridge to the top.

Showing all routes 6 routes total 2811 m

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Alpine - 6 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75
Sibbald

Named after Captain Sibbald, the first runholder at Lilybank Station, Mt Sibbald was first climbed by Edgar Williams and William Kennedy in 1917 from Lucifer Flat in the Godley Valley. A successful climb from the glacier on the northern slopes (now the standard route) was made in 1934 by C N Johnson, H J Newberry and I Powell from McKinnon Stream (a tributary of the Godley River), but this route is now usually reached from the Macaulay Valley. Mt Sibbald is relatively easy to reach and, being east of the Main Divide, is away from the worst of the westerly weather, making the climb a popular two-day trip. The usual approach is from Macaulay Hut although a camp further upstream or a high bivvy may be beneficial as the summit is a 1700-metre climb from the Macaulay riverbed – there is good camping at the tarn in Upper Tindill Stream. Mt Sibbald has three peaks. A climb of the northern summit is straightforward and gives good views. However, reaching the higher south summit requires some exposed, delicate footwork along a rotten and towered ridge and this frequently causes more cautious groups to turn back. A rope might be helpful. Photo; Mt Sibbald from the north-east. Skyline snow slopes in sun to the right drain into McKinnon Stream, Godley catchment, while the partly shaded slopes below and left of the summit drain into Upper Tindill Stream in the Macaulay catchment. Mike Andrews

Access: Although outside the AMCNP boundary, Mt Sibbald is a prominent peak and a popular climb. The usual approach is from the Macaulay Valley. Macaulay Hut, described at the beginning of the Godley Valley section, provides a good base. However, a high bivvy could be useful.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club Photo, Mike Andrews

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North Ridge
Grade 2.25
From the upper reaches of the Macaulay Valley follow the Upper Tindill Stream to gain the saddle north of the peak. Then follow steep glacier slopes south to the north summit - the traverse from the north to the main peak (south) is mostly rock now and has one or two difficult spots. Ski option: Ski from the South Summit all the way to the Macaulay Valley floor.
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Unnamed
Grade 0
From McKinnon Stream in the Godley, then onto the North Ridge. A variation: use McKinnon Stream and then scree slopes directly to the North Ridge.
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From Lucifer Flat
Grade 0
From Lucifer Flat in the Godley.
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South East Ridge
Grade 2.25
First climbed as part of a traverse, from the north branch of the Macaulay, using the south-west ridge as a descent.
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South West Ridge
Grade 2
This route was descended as part of a South West Ridge – South East Ridge traverse and can be accessed from the Upper Tindill Stream catchment.
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North West Ridge
Grade 2

Showing all routes 1 route total 2160 m

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Liebig Range.

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Armadillo Saddle
Grade 0
NB. The best crossing point is the saddle at ~2170m, between spot height 2220m and The Ant-hill (however Armadillo Saddle, as marked on maps, is fine). From the Murchison Glacier either follow easy scree and snow slopes to the pass or see the alternative route description below. The pass allows access to the east linking with the north branch of the Rutherford Stream, which descends into the Godley Valley. This is the easiest route to get from the upper Murchison to the Godley Valley. From the Godley: Follow the north branch of the Rutherford Stream and then scree slopes to the saddle. Considerable avalanche danger may exist during winter and spring after new snowfall. This is regarded as the easiest and most convenient route from the Tekapo-Godley region to the upper Murchison Valley. It is also a popular crossing for ski tourers. Descending to Murchison Glacier: from the crossing point (~2170m, described above) traverse right (north) above bluffs without losing height at first, then follow a distinct ramp down to the Harper Valley floor. Follow the valley and descend the moraine wall to the Murchison Glacier on the true left of the stream.

Showing all routes 17 routes total

Alpine - 17 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

True Right of the Godley Valley

Access: Classen Glacier and Saddle. From Eade Memorial Hut follow the terrace up valley for about a kilometre before descending to the Classen Lake. Follow the true right of the lake to the moraine. A trough between the moraine wall and the Classen Glacier makes the travel a bit easier. Continue up the glacier around the bend keeping on the true right side. Pass the Joie de Vivre Glacier to the next glacier on the same side. Ascend this unnamed tributary glacier to a point roughly half way between Mt Phyllis and Classen Saddle. This point is marked as spot height 2178m (on map 260-I35, grid ref: 011-414). The icefall below Classen Saddle is generally not passable. An alternative route involves turning up the Joie de Vivre Glacier - the col at the head leads to the Aida Glacier, providing access to the head of the Murchison Valley. Parties have also used the north side of the Classen Lake to gain the glacier: follow the Elizabeth Stream, which drains from its namesake glacier, until it turns north. Continue along the moraine shelf and then descend on to the Classen Glacier. Descending to Murchison Hut. From the top of the tributary glacier (described above) descend in a south-west direction to join the Murchison Glacier. Continue across to the west side of the glacier until the Murchison Hut becomes obvious on a rocky shelf 150m above the glacier, situated under Mt Cooper. Traversing to Tasman Saddle. Traverse on the Murchison side to Classen Saddle and then travel south-west toward a rock buttress (2225m) in the centre of the glacier. Turning to the north side of the buttress, pick the best line down into the Murchison Glacier before angling toward Tasman Saddle.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2669 m

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Mannering

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

SWR
South West Ridge
Grade 0
From Whataroa Saddle ascend snow and rock on the Main Divide, passing an overhang near the summit by using a gut nearby or turning to the north-west side. An alternative route from the saddle lies up the slopes on the western side, approaching the summit from the south-west.
WF
West Face
Grade 0
From the Whataroa. Interesting rock slabs and snow patches.
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East Rib
Grade 0
Gained from the Classen Glacier.

Showing all routes 10 routes total 2669 m

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Alpine - 10 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+
Brodrick 0

Murchison Valley

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Whymper Saddle
Grade 0
From Whymper Saddle follow the Main Divide firstly on snow then rock to the Low Peak.
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South West Ridge
Grade 0
The vague feature on the left side of the peak seen from Murchison Hut.
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Loves Last (South Face)
Grade 3.75
Take the central gully and then enjoy ice on rock.
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South East Ridge
Grade 1.75
From Classen Saddle climb snow slopes to arrive high on the Main Divide north of the summit, then continue to the summit.
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Main Divide
Grade 1.75
From Classen Saddle traverse to the vicinity of Whataroa Saddle, then up south-eastern snow slopes (or rock depending on conditions) and then traverse the Main Divide to the summit.
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From Whataroa Saddle
Grade 0
From Whataroa Saddle follow the rock and snow ridge of the Main Divide. Alternatively, turn to the western side and climb snow slopes that lead to a point north-east of the summit.
Brodrick

West Face of Brodrick Pk

Attribution: Alex Palman

OR
Original Route
Grade 0
Drop into the névé from a point west of Whataroa Saddle. Climb the prominent rib on the face, gaining the north ridge, then continue to the summit.
SR
Slab Route
Grade 3
Six pitches of excellent red rock. Start just left of the major left facing corner and finish 100m below, and to the south of the summit (crux 15/16). The slabs can be seen from the Main Divide between Hochstetter Dome and Aylmer. Climbed from the upper Whymper (see the back cover photo of the Mt Cook guidebook).
NB
North Buttress
Grade 3.25
Climb the buttress at the head of the true right branch of the Whymper Glacier.
NER
North East Ridge
Grade 1.75
From Whataroa Saddle follow the rock and snow ridge of the Main Divide or snow slopes to the south-east.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2444 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
An easy climb along a snow ridge from Classen Saddle. Alternatively, from the Aida Glacier climb to the col east of the peak and then up to the summit.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2521 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
From the Aida Glacier climb north up a snow spur to the col then continue north-east along snow and rock 150m to the summit. Alternatively, climb to the col on the south-east ridge that leads from Acland, then up a rocky ridge to the summit. The Joie de Vivre Buttress, on the north-western side, has also been climbed - this can be accessed from Phyllis.
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Unnamed
Grade 0
From the head of the Joie de Vivre Glacier climb to the col south-east of Mt Phyllis then travel north-east along snow and rock to the summit.
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Joie de Vivre Buttress
Grade 0
Climb the buttress directly to the summit from the Joie de Vivre Glacier.

Showing all routes 13 routes total

Alpine - 13 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

The Grey and Maud Glaciers are no longer joined at their snouts. Both have receded to the point where the terminal lake now separates them (NB map 260-I35, 1996, shows the Grey and Maud glaciers joined). The recession of these glaciers has made access more difficult – but not impossible. Access

Access: The Grey and Maud Glaciers are no longer joined at their snouts. Both have receded to the point where the terminal lake now separates them (NB map 260-I35, 1996, shows the Grey and Maud glaciers joined). The recession of these glaciers has made access more difficult – but not impossible. If travelling from Eade Memorial Hut, traverse the west side of the terminal lake, west of Godley Hut, to the Grey Glacier. The icefall mid way up the Grey may prove to be impassable during summer. An alternative route could lie over Gordon Peak. If travelling from Godley Hut two options are possible. 1) Follow the route described from Eade Memorial Hut. This will initially involve crossing the Godley River - beware - this may not be possible. 2) Cross the river that joins the two lakes below Godley Hut. Follow the isthmus to the Maud Glacier and then traverse over the toe of the ridge descending from Gordon Peak.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2400 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Original Route
Grade 0
Easily climbed from the head of the Grey Glacier.
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North Ridge from the North Butler Lake
Grade 0
The ridge is accessed from Ice lake.
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West Face
Grade 1.25
The first stream below Ice Lake offers good travel up towards Grey Pass with the odd pitch of steeper rock. From the snow slopes north of Grey Pass, head up the West Face on good rock.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2253 m

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Grey Glacier

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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On the Western Side
Grade 0
On the western side, the first stream below Ice Lake offers good travel up towards Grey Pass with the odd pitch of steeper rock. To avoid the confined lower part of the stream, use the spur on the true right and sidle in at about the 1100–1200-metre contour. Alternatively, this spur itself can be used to access the pass, with a bit of route finding and scrambling involved higher up, leading to within about 50 metres of Seymour Peak.
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On the Eastern Side
Grade 0
On the eastern side, climb easy slopes from the head of the Grey Glacier. Grey Pass should be crossed at its lowest point. Alternatively, climb Seymour to within 50 metres of the summit and then descend a short couloir, which provides access to the west ridge of Seymour. See above. Access down the Grey Glacier may often be impassable these days due to the icefall at about 1500 metres, especially during summer. An alternative route could lie over Gordon Peak.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2328 m

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On the ridge SE of Mt Moffat

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Can be climbed from either Bruce Murray or Panorama (avoiding Bruce Murray).
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From the Grey Glacier
Grade 0
Climb directly from the Grey Glacier.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2120 m

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On the ridge SE of Mt Moffat

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
The peak can be climbed from Panorama, from Elizabeth Glacier (gaining the col between the summit and Panorama) and from Easter Glacier.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2117 m

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On the ridge SE of Mt Moffat

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Traverse from Bruce Murray or climb the South East Arête. The north-east approach is described in the Grey Valley section.
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From the North East
Grade 0
From the North East scramble up scree from the lower Grey Glacier. At bluffs near the head of the ridge, traverse out on to rock faces to the north, then continue to the summit by snow slopes on the western side.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2467 m

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On the ridge SW of Mt Frances

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Traverse from the summit of Gordon. From the col between the two peaks ascend the south ridge to gain the low peak. From the summit of Frances use the north-west ridge. Watch for loose rock - in 1992 a large rock avalanche fell down the east face, crossed the Maud Glacier and continued some way up the other side of the valley.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2090 m

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On the ridge SW of Mt Frances

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Climb to the col above of the Grey Glacier and then up snow slopes to the summit. Alternatively, climb directly from below the Grey Glacier icefall. The peak has also been climbed from the Maud Glacier, using the south-east ridge (first ascent).
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Unnamed
Grade 0
Starting from near the junction of the Maud and Grey Glaciers ascend tussock slopes and a south-east rock face.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Upper Godley

Access: From the Godley Hut cross the river that joins the two lakes. Follow the isthmus to the Maud Glacier (there are some faded red painted circles on the odd rock). From Eade Memorial Hut either follow the route described for the Grey Glacier or head to the Godley Hut (crossing the Godley River) and continue from there.

Attribution: Allex Palman

Showing all routes 1 route total 2437 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge
Grade 0
Reach Jacqueline Col from the Neish Plateau or Mawson Glacier via Mt Walton.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2479 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Standard Route
Grade 0
Climb easy snow slopes from the head of the Grey Glacier.
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From Ice Lake
Grade 1.25
Climb to Grey Pass and the Upper Grey Glacier (see above), then link into the route above.

Showing all routes 31 routes total

Alpine - 31 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

Beyond Godley Hut

Access: From Godley Hut Continued recession of the Godley Glacier and fluctuating lake levels has affected the access around the terminal lake significantly. Conditions change constantly and so a variety of routes should be kept in mind when planning a visit the Godley Glacier. There are three possible routes. 1) Travel up the true left side of the terminal lake using a shelf near to the waterline. Check the lake level first. Some parties have become bluffed. Also, significant rockfall hazards exist. 2) Use the true right side of the terminal lake, but this involves crossing the lake outflow. 3) Climb up behind the hut to a flatter part of the slope at about 1600m elevation. Traverse at this level, following the valley side all the way to the tarn west of the Trident Glacier. Continue past the tarn to the stream that drains from the Trident. Descend this stream to the Godley Glacier. Currently route 1) is considered impassable. Route 3) has been used successfully by a number of parties. During winter access is much improved as the glacier lake is typically frozen. The Neish Glacier is the largest tributary to the Godley Glacier and joins about three kilometres up-valley of the terminal lake. The Neish Plateau area is popular with ski touring parties and climbers alike. Those visiting the plateau may need to use tents or snowcaves for accommodation or access the plateau from Godley Hut in winter when the lake is frozen. A number of peaks, with superb views of Westland, can be climbed from the Neish Plateau. Once on the Godley Glacier travel up valley turn up the Neish Glacier to negotiate the icefall. The Neish Icefall is often impassable. Instead climb a steep slope to the SW of Sealy Pass and traverse to the middle section of the Neish Glacier. (This traverse is often prone to slab avalanche hazard!). The plateau can also be reached from the Maud Glacier via Maud Pass. Sealy Pass, accessed from the Neish Glacier, allows passage to the West Coast via Scone Creek. The following peaks can be climbed from the Neish Plateau.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2315 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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West Ridge
Grade 1
Traverse from the summit of Malthus. Descend the east ridge to the Main Divide col and then climb the west ridge.
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Main Divide
Grade 1.25
From the plateau to the south-west of Malthus traverse the south-eastern slopes to the Main Divide col between Malthus and the peak. Continue up the ridge to the summit or use the slopes on the Westland side.
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Unnamed
Grade 0
As for the previous route but continue to and climb the south ridge rather than the Main Divide col.
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South Ridge
Grade 0
Gain the plateau east of the peak by the best route possible from the upper Godley Glacier. Then use steep snow slopes to access a rock ridge that descends to the south from the summit.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2210 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North West Ridge
Grade 1
From Stewart Saddle snow slopes lead to the Main Divide ridge of the peak. The rock ridge can be climbed with a couple of gendarmes to turn on the Godley side, but it is easier to reach the Divide just west of the peak.
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Unnamed
Grade 1
Climb to the plateau south-west of the peak by any number of routes from the Godley Glacier. From the plateau join the Main Divide or use the rock face to the south.
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South Rib
Grade 0
From the Godley Glacier climb the rock and snow rib which leads onto the peak.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1905 m

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The saddle can be used to access Westland via the Bettison Stream.

Access: Use easy snow slopes of the Amherst Galcier from the Godley Glacier to access the saddle. The saddle can be used to access Westland via the Bettison Stream.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Crossing Stewart Saddle
Grade 0
From the Godley Glacier, use easy snowslopes on the Amherst Glacier or nearby to access the saddle. Crevasses are a potential problem later in the season. On the Bettison side, sidle across to the rock rib (I35 147506) on the true right of the glacier above the icefall and descend this bedrock (or snow nearby) to the valley floor. Some steeper sidling will be required accessing the rib from the upper glacier, otherwise the route is relatively easy. Gravel and boulders lead down to long tussock in the Bettison Basin. Travel on down is covered under Bettison Stream.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2235 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Stewart Saddle
Grade 0
Climb from Stewart Saddle or Amherst Glacier. Head up snow slopes onto a snow ridge that leads past a prominent rock pinnacle toward the summit. Alternatively, climb the snow face of Petermann from the Amherst, then over the ridge to easy snow slopes on the Sealy Pass side.
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From the Amherst Glacier
Grade 0
From the Amherst Glacier follow up the glacier immediately east of Petermann and cross over the ridge to easy snow slopes on the Sealy Pass side.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2346 m

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tba

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Sealy Pass
Grade 0
From Sealy Pass head along the Main Divide on rock and gain snow slopes west of the summit. Alternatively, cross Sealy Pass to snow slopes on the western side of the peak.
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From upper Scone Creek
Grade 0
From the top of the lake in the head of the Scone, follow a snow gully up heading east. Near the summit gain a snow ridge and continue south east.
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From Stewart Saddle
Grade 0
From Stewart Saddle, crevassed slopes lead to a rock climb.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 1722 m

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E.P. Sealy first crossed this pass in 1869 descending to Scone Creek.

Access: Ascend easy snow slopes to the pass. This is the best route from the Godley Valley to Westland.

Attribution: Alex Palaman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Scone Creek to Sealy Pass
Grade 0
From the Scone Creek footbridge, a DOC marked route leads up the true left of the Scone to a second bridge. Above here, travel gravitates to the streambed. In the upper valley, follow the true left around under the walls of McKinnon Peak. Stony travel leads on up to the narrow lake, also traversed on the true left. Be aware of loose stones from above. The route leads easily over pt 1838m and down a gully due south at I35 122506, away from the icefall draining the Neish Plateau, to reach the lower Godley Glacier. EP Sealy first crossed this pass in 1869, descending into Scone Creek. TN Brodrick, LC Sladden, C Moore, J Grimwood, J Blair, a Govt survey party, left a cairn on the pass in 1888. GE Mannering, MH Lean, JW Annan, in February 1892 crossed the pass but retreated from the scrub in the Perth when Lean became injured in a fall.
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MAIN DIVIDE from Sealy Pass to Perth Col
Grade 0
Peaks accessed from Scone Creek or the Bettison offer some very pleasant days on not technically difficult mountains in isolated country provided the weather is right. Further north along the Main Divide interesting transalpine routes exist through the basins and in good conditions there is the potential for very capable and equipped climbing parties to continue right through to Perth Col and the Gardens, though to my knowledge this has not been done. Above the upper Perth the Main Divide is bordered by high greasy north facing walls of dark greywacke over which wispy streams trickle and float in the bluffs. It is an impressive, desolate and inspiring sight. Along this section of the Divide, check information provided on climbs of any relevant peaks from the Havelock and Clyde as well.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2504 m

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Attribution: Alex Palaman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Neish Plateau
Grade 1
Traverse from Cumine or climb snow slopes from the Neish Plateau.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2428 m

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Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South West Ridge
Grade 1
Traverse along the Main Divide from Gorrie. Alternatively, climb from McKinnon or the col west of, along the Main Divide. Access via the south-west shoulder, from the Neish Plateau, is easy and is also an excellent ski tour.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2425 m

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Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Flank
Grade 1
Readily approached from the broad Divide snow plateau above the Neish Plateau.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2517 m

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Includes the Low Peak, 2486m

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

SR
South Ridge
Grade 0
Ascend snow slopes to the north of White Pyramid from the Neish Plateau and climb the snow and rock ridge south of the peak.
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From Neish Plateau
Grade 0
From an upper basin of the Neish Plateau, head up snow slopes to the col between the high and low peaks. The Low Peak is now accessible, but from here the high peak is somewhat more difficult, on loose rock.
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From Ice Lake
Grade 1.75
Up the Mawson Glacier to the Divide pass at 2250 metres, then continuing over White Pyramid and the South Ridge. This climb was done in good spring snow conditions as a three-day Labour Weekend trip from Wellington ; attempts en route to hop ice floes along the lake edge failed, with a dunking for one party member.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2412 m

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Victorie1

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Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

SR
South Ridge
Grade 0
From the Divide pass at 2250 metres, follow the Main Divide to the summit.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2403 m

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From either Maud Pass or Jacqueline Col. First ascent from Neish Plateau by Will Kennedy and Jack Lippe, Feb 1925.

Attribution: Alex Palman

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From Neish Plateau
Grade 0
From the Neish Plateau, via Maud Pass or the Pt 2250 metres Divide pass.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2253 m

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Attribution: Alex Palman Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South Ridge
Grade 1.25
Originally approached from the Godley Valley and reached from a col to the south-west of the peak. This col can also be reached from the Forbes Glacier via straightforward travel on the glacier and snowfields
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East Ridge
Grade 1.25
Follow the Saint Winifred Glacier south to join the foot of the East Ridge and follow this to the top.
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North Ridge
Grade 1.25
It is a short scramble along the rocky North Ridge from Terra Nova Pass

Showing all routes 1 route total 2337 m

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Named by the first ascentionists for its commanding position at the head of the Godley Valley.

Attribution: Alex Palman Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North East Ridge
Grade 2
Follow the rock ridge from Terra Nova Pass, negotiating a small bluff and then a gendarme. The rock is loose in places.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2492 m

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Between Maud Glacier & Neish Plateau.

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Climb sound rock from Maud Glacier to low peak and then traverse poor rock to high peak.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2558 m

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Between Maud Glacier & Neish Plateau.

Attribution: Alex Palman

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South Ridge
Grade 0
From the Maud Glacier gain the ridge just short of the summit.
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East Ridge
Grade 0
Follow the long rocky east ridge from the junction of the Godley and Ruth glaciers, or from nearer to the Neish Glacier. A long and interesting route with good rock on the section between the Neish and Ruth Glaciers.
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From Neish Glacier
Grade 0
Climb to the col north of the peak from the Neish Glacier. Then head up a sound rock ridge to the summit.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2.75 3+

Drains from the southern side of Mt D'Archiac

Access: The Separation Stream drains from the southern side of Mt D’Archiac and joins the Godley Valley about 1.5 km from the lower Godley Lake. It is at this point, the southern side of the stream, that most parties leave their 4WD vehicles before walking to Godley Hut or venturing up Separation Stream itself. The walk up Separation Stream to Separation Col is enjoyable but a little deceptive. For those heading to the col, after having driven in late in the day, there is a 1100m climb from the Godley Valley. In winter this travel can be slowed considerably by deep snow. Follow the stream mostly on the true right to the Separation Glacier. Depending on conditions, ascend the glacier on the true right and continue up to Separation Col (2256m). Most parties bivvy or tent near to the col or slightly toward Mt Coates. Superb views of Aoraki/Mt Cook are possible on a good day from Coates, not to mention Mt D’Archiac. The South West Ridge, South Face and South East Ridge of Mt D’Archiac can all be accessed from either the Separation Glacier or Col. Ski tour option: Separation Stream to Ballium Snowfield.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2150 m

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Twilight Col is shown in different locations depending on the map edition used. In the 1998 edition of 260 I35 it is shown at Pt 2094 metres.

Access: of 260 I35 it is shown at Pt 2094 metres. In later editions Twilight Col is shown approximately 500 metres to the south-east at the foot of the north-west buttress of Mt Earle, and this is the point referred to as Twilight Col in this guide. Both locations can be used to cross the range. To reach the col at Pt 2094 metres, follow the South Branch of the Forbes River up to the snow and scree basin directly east of Mt Coates. From about 1900 metres, scramble up a rock rib and then follow a gully that leads diagonally up to the col. On the west side, descend easy snow slopes or rock ribs slightly south of Pt 2094 metres onto the Butcher Glacier. From Pt 2094 metres, Twilight Col (at the foot of the north-west buttress of Mt Earle) is reached either by following the ridge directly (climbing a couple of bumps en route), or by dropping down onto the Butcher Glacier to avoid the ridge. To reach Twilight Col (at the foot of the north-west buttress of Mt Earle) from the South Forbes, follow up scree then moderate snow slopes and cross the col to the Butcher Glacier. Watch for loose stones.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Named after Joseph Gordon Coates, the first New Zealand-born citizen to become Prime Minister.

Attribution: Alex Palman. Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge
Grade 1.25
A straightforward climb from Separation Col. Alternatively, ascend snow slopes from the confluence of the Separation and Butcher Glaciers to join the south-east ridge close to the summit. Coates can also be climbed from Twilight Col.
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South East Ridge
Grade 2
From the col at Pt 2094 metres (see Twilight Col) it is a slow climb on mixed snow and rock along the ridge to the summit.

Showing all routes 7 routes total 2256 m

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Alpine - 7 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2.75 3+

Gained via a tramp up the Forbes River and a climb of the South Forbes Glacier

Access: Gained via a tramp up the Forbes River and a climb of the South Forbes Glacier. Follow the glacier until the rock buttress on the south side of the icefall is reached. Climb the buttress to reach the upper slopes and the col. A couloir on the true right of this buttress can also be used given sufficient snow. Descent to Separation Stream can be tricky in late season if the icefall in the lower Separation Glacier is cut off, and a poor alternative route involving some short steep scrambling and loose rock exists on the true right. Separation Col also provides access to routes on the South Face and South West Ridge of D’Archiac, rather than approaching from the Godley River

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Alpine - 7 routes - avg. grade 3 0 - 2.75 3+
D%27archiac

This mountain is the highest peak between the rest of the Aoraki/Mt Cook region and the Kaikoura Range. Its size and location allows it to be seen from as far as Ashburton.

Access: Those intending to climb Mt D’Archiac and/or neighbouring peaks or planning to cross Separation Col into the Godley region will need to use the Havelock Valley for access. Terra Nova Pass can also be used to access the Godley from the Havelock. Four wheel drive vehicle access beyond Erewhon Station, at the head of the Rangitata River system, and some way up the Havelock, is possible, but access is dependent on the state of the rivers. For those on foot, cross the Clyde River after Erewhon Station and follow the north bank of the Havelock River to Freezing Point. Cross the Havelock River and continue to Mistake Flats Hut at the confluence of the Forbes and Havelock Rivers. This is an eight bunk DoC hut (~800m, grid ref: BX17 133 868) and is situated at the back of the flats near the beech forest. From Mistake Flats Hut to Separation Col allow 6-8hrs.

Attribution: Alex Palman

ER
East Ridge
Grade 2.75
Reach the East Ridge from the upper South Forbes Glacier, either at Revelation Col or higher (which cuts out the lower part of the ridge). Alternatively, approach the ridge by traversing The Onlooker. A major couloir at the head of the South Forbes, known as The Motorway, offers another variation to the upper reaches of the East Ridge, but is often cut off mid and late season. High on the East Ridge, where a snow crest abuts the mountain, either traverse up and right on good rock, or traverse left to the upper reaches of The Motorway. Both lead to the rock and snow of the summit ridge. An alternative, in good snow conditions, is to take a rising traverse from Revelation Col across the north-east face on to the north ridge.
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North Ridge
Grade 0
At the junction of the Godley and Dennistoun Glaciers ascend the broad based north ridge and a northern snow slope that follows. From here climb to the junction of two rock spurs that border either side of the northern snow slope. Ascend either a rocky couloir or a spur to the east. Traverse along good rock on the narrow north ridge. A large tower can be turned on the east. An interesting rock climb.
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Trident Glacier Route (then West Ridge)
Grade 3.25
From Godley Hut follow the Godley Glacier to Marjorie Falls. Then climb scree slopes north-east of the falls to the Trident Glacier. Snow slopes then lead to the rocky West Ridge. Climb this, enjoying steep and interesting climbing to the summit.
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FitzGerald Stream Route
Grade 0
From Godley Hut travel up the FitzGerald Stream to join the West Ridge at about 2100m. To avoid a steep pitch on the ridge - cross the ridge onto the northern side and traverse the upper slopes of the Trident Glacier. Continue as for Trident Glacier Route.
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South West Ridge
Grade 3
Climb up the FitzGerald Glacier to about 2400m and gain the ridge. The ridge up to the junction with the north-west ridge involves some steep snow and the occasional section of poor rock punctuated with gendarmes.
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The Bandaid Route (South Face)
Grade 4
The Bandaid route climbed on the central buttress, starting beside an outcrop on the right side of the buttress that offers protection from falling ice. From here move up a left trending corner groove (crux 15) for a pitch of very sustained rock climbing. Continue up and left to gain the crest of a central rib. Follow the rib to the summit. (McLeod's crampon was held together by elastoplast tape).
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South East Ridge
Grade 3
This classic 600m ridge can be climbed from either Separation Col or from the Forbes side. The ridge includes three rock steps the first of which can be turned on the eastern side. The latter two buttresses present more difficult climbing. Above the buttresses the climbing on the ridge becomes more straightforward and beyond the intersection with the East Ridge it usually entails a snow ridge (possibly corniced). In late summer the ridge may involve easy rock scrambling. The easiest descent is via the East Ridge (via a snow couloir first then down the ridge to Revelation Col).