Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 120 routes total

Sports - 59 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 49 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Alpine - 12 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

In this small section the mountains on the eastern side of the valley from The Nun’s Veil to Mt Blackburn are described.

Access: There are no huts on the upper eastern side of the Tasman River but some bivvy rocks can be found. Accessing this area usually involves crossing either the Tasman or Murchison rivers or the Tasman Lake. A boat, used for glacier sightseeing, can provide transport. Enquire at the Visitor Centre for more details.

Attribution: Alex Palman

Showing all routes 109 routes total Time 10 min 800 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 59 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 49 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Alpine - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Seb%20bluffsCrag map

Sebastapol Bluffs are located in close proximity to the NZAC Unwin Lodge. Most of the best quality lines are the bolted slab routes; the quality of rock on the crack climbs can be variable. The best place to start and orient yourself with the crag is the Twin Cracks Wall.

Alpine Guides have produced a brochure which is a helpful source of information, availible from Alpine guides at the Mt Cook village or Unwin Hut. Other crags in the vicinity - Kowhai Crag, Unwin Crag, and Shakey Town have been included under Sebastopol so that climbers visiting the area don't miss them.

Access: The cliffs are located on the west side of state highway 80, between Unwin Lodge and Mount Cook Village. Specific directions are under each crag if appropriate. For most of the Sebastopol climbs park at the 3rd pull out on the left after leaving Unwin Lodge (approx 1km). There is a DoC sign there and the main track starts from there. Alternatively it's about 10-15 mins flat walk from Unwin along the old 4Wd track. This may be impassable after heavy rain.

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 20min 900 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Unwin%2520crag%2520approach 0Unwin%20left%20%26%20right

A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter. Be good to get some traffic on the track to get it more established and confirmation of grades. Would appreciate feedback.

Access: There is now a marked track to Unwin Crag & takes about 20 mins. Walk behind Unwin Hut, cross the fence and head along the base for 75m to a large cairn. Head up the faint gully then work up and R. Traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up. Tyhe tape mentioned on the photo does not exist.

Attribution: Ray Button

1
Fringe Benefit
Grade 16
9 Bolt
28m Crux bolt 6 to 7 up smooth slab between edge & crack: This climb has a DBB lower than the other 2 routes.
2
Whispering Grass
Grade 16
9 Bolt
25m Crux trend left at 7th bolt (Ray) but other people seem to find crux around 3rd bolt.
3
Pinot
Grade 15
8 Bolt
23m Easiest of the 3 routes. Bigger and more postive features.
4
Secret Squirrel Arete
Grade 15, 13
16 Bolt
1. 32m Starting in the centre of the wall trend left towards the arete on a variety of side pulls and flakes. The start can seep but you can clip the bolt and then start up further left.
2. 22m A short pitch on easier climbing towards and on the arete and a spacious belay ledge.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 5 min

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Dsc01873 0S100 3165

Slightly overhanging to vertical rock, the southern aspect protects it often from rain

Access: Mt Cook Village, start as for the Red Tarns track but instead of crossing the bridge follow the Black Birch Stream for about 2 minutes (stay on the true left of the stream). It's the same place as the Shaky Town Traverse.

-
Resurrection
Grade 19
6 Bolt
15m Starting at the RH end of the Shakey Town traverse from the start traverse up and R then straight up to the DBA.

Showing all routes 10 routes total 900 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 9 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Sawyers%20accessSawyer%20crag

Sawyer's Crag is a sub-alpine crag located above Sawyer Stream, behind Unwin Lodge, at Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. The crag starts from the stream at about 740 metres altitude and tops out on Hoophorn Spur at 1000 metres. It faces north and catches the sun. Most of the routes are bolted, but take natural gear for additional anchors and placements on some routes. There have been some fixed ropes left in place, use at your own peril. There is plenty of scope for more routes, both natural and bolted. Note that this area is a domestic water catchment area and must not be polluted. It is possible to scramble between the top of "Paper Tiger", past the "Joggers' Special" wall, to the climbs centered around "Bone China".

Access: To gain access to Sawyer's Crag, walk up the vehicle access track behind Unwin Lodge past the watertanks. When opposite the old wooden "A"frame, enter the bush and follow the track up to the remains of the old pipe-line bridge. Cross the stream, onto the true right, by using the rocks down-stream from the bridge. Climb "Pipeline Rib" to the left of the bridge. Above the rock rib, ascend the grass slopes to the crag. There is also a steep access route directly above the end of the bridge, to the top of "Pipeline Rib". If Sawyer Stream is too high to cross safely then access can be made by crossing the stream near the gravel pit and ascending Hoophorn Spur via the grass slopes. You can then abseil down the crag with double ropes from the chain anchors on top of "Jogger's Special". Warning: DO NOT ATTEMPT THE GRASS SLOPES WHEN WET! BE PREPARED TO FIND YOUR OWN ANCHORS AND GEAR PLACEMENTS. TAKE A HELMET. CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Attribution: From the mini guide in the NZAC Website. By Grant Pearson

1
Pipeline Rib
Grade 14, 0
1. 45m Access route that follows the rib above the old pipeline bridge to the beech trees. 2 pitches on natural gear. Not a beginner lead! 1st pitch starts from the ledge above the stream and steps left onto the rib. Continue up the rib to the trees to belay.
2. 2nd pitch heads up the corner to the left, through the trees. Belay from the trees at top.
2
Don't Forget the Kids
Grade 13
Follow extreme left line on the crag with natural gear.
3
Don't Forget the Guide Book
Grade 13
Continue up the arete above "Don't Forget the Kids", to the very top of the crag, with natural gear. Be careful with the loose scree at the top. Descent can be made by double-rope abseil from the top of "Jogger's Special". Otherwise take your walking shoes and walk off the back, past the tarn, over the fence and down the steep grass slopes towards Unwin Lodge.
4
"Access Route"
Grade 18
25m Climb the slanting slab past two bolts with natural gear between, then walk up ramp to belay chain at base of "Paper Tiger". Has been climbed straight up onto the slab using the first bolt and natural gear. (work in progress, bolting incomplete)
5
Paper Tiger
Grade 17
25m Climb through the scoop in the obvious overhang and follow right-most line on slab above. Bolted. 2 bolt anchor at the top.
6
Jogger's Special
Grade 16
45m Follow line of spaced bolts up three slabs separated by small overhangs. Bolted. Chain anchor at the top. Beware of loose scree over the top. Long ropes required.
7
Foxglove
Grade 18
20m Shares belay at its base with "Bone China". The bolted left line up the slab. 2 bolt anchor at the top.
8
Bone China
Grade 17
25m The bolted right-hand line from the belay, following breaks up the slab. Trend right after second bolt. Chain anchor at the top.
9
Shark Walk
Grade 17, 0
1. 50m Shark Walk (16/17) 50m The slab up the extreme right-hand end of the crag. Natural gear. The 1st pitch is accessible by abseil from base of "Bone China". 1st pitch to get back to the level of "Bone China" start.
2. 2nd pitch either head straight up cracks or use them to protect the arete on the right. Shares top anchor with "Bone China".
10
Look and See
Grade 12
Trad route that steps right, past a small cave, and then up the buttress.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 30 min from Unwin

Kowhai%20crag 0

Outcrop across Sawyer stream and up the grassy slope, visible from Unwin Hut kitchen. First route added summer 2013 with Murray and Bronwyn Judge, with room for a few more routes on steep left and right ends and up central groove.

Access: From behind Unwin, cross Sawyer stream 100m below the water tank, head up animal track to low point on grassy slope. Follow your nose and tracks up and right to the stand of Kowhai trees at the base of the crag. Access to the top possible via careful scrambling up gully to the left (when facing the crag).

-
Titipounamu
Grade 21
5 Bolt
12m Clip first bolt from corner, then step out and head up black groove. Loose rock in parts should clean up with repeats. Double ring bolt anchor.

Showing all routes 1 route total

The Waterfall Wall is located on the true R of the obvious big cleft to the east of the main crags -

Access: the best access is to ascend the route as described in Rock deluxe to get to the Orange Wall. Via the grassy slope at the far left of the crag. At the top of the grass traverse R into the creek bed.

-
Waterfall Route
Grade 14

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 15 762 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Javelin access 2Javelin 0 0 1

The Javelin Wall is the light grey coloured wall left and higher than the Twin Cracks Wall. The best approach is to go to the base of the scree below Twin Cracks Wall and take the tagged track which starts on the far left of the scree. Where the gully runs out below a steep wall climb follow track hard R to the start of some fixed ropes When the track regains the ridge traverse L on a faint track to below Javelin. There is a 30 Metre rap a short way down from Javelin back to the top of the gully.

GG
Growly Girl
Grade 18
4 Bolt
15m Climb up and leftwards to the arete, then through the overlap and onwards to the top of the slab.
OB
The Old Bastard
Grade 19
4 Bolt
15m Scamble above Growly Grrl. A pumpy face climb on the black and white striped wall.
FHC
Five Hour Commute
Grade 18
7 Bolt
30m
-
Olympic Feet
Grade 23
6 Bolt
25m Steep slab line left of Javelin, tricky down low then up and through overlap. Starting in from the left.
Jn
Javelin
Grade 17
35m Start up the left corner then move out onto the crack up the centre of the slab, takes wires and small to large cams. 30 rap to an easy scramble down.
FRC
Five Ring Circus
Grade 17
10 Bolt Trad
30m Bridge up the left facing corner then step through onto the slab and up to the Javelin belay.
PN
Pinot Noir
Grade 19
20m Into the notch behind the Totara tree then link a finger crack up the slab. Mostly good wires with few small cams.

Showing all routes 12 routes total Time 15 793 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Crimea%20wallCrimeaJavelin access 5

The rougher looking wall below and right from Orange wall. Approach up the gully left of Twin cracks as for Javelin starting on lower left of scree. Follow track around to R , up some handline until back on the spur directly across from Javelin Wall. Track to Javelin heads L at this point and you should see the Crimea Wall up and R. Continue up a few more m the duck into gully on R, arriving at L end of the Crimea Wall. There are several newer routes not yet added here including 1 to the R of Battle Fatique (Judge) about 21.

Attribution: Topo by Dave Brash, Photo Topo Simon Middlemass

SK
Shell Shock
Grade 17
5 Bolt
12m Near the left arete, add a couple of grades if you avoid the arete and stay on the face.
Sh
Shrapnel
Grade 18
3 Bolt
10m Takes a couple of small wires after the first bolt.
-
Charlie Brown
Grade 16, 12
12 Bolt
1. 36m Start beside a small Totara tree a few m left of the 2 ring bolt anchor for Back in the USSR. Pitch 1 finishes just left of the first belay of BITUSSR.
2. Step slightly right at start, move up and onto arete, finish next to second belay of BITUSSR.
BITUSSR
Back in the U.S.S.R
Grade 14, 13
1. 20m From the double ring anchor at ground level climb the arete past 2B to natural pro section then up the face above.
2. 18m From the belay follow the cracks above to a bolt runner. Move up and L to belay ledge
HA
Holy Alliance
Grade 13, 15
14 Bolt
1. 20m Start as for BITUSSR move R and up into R facing corner to DBB.
2. 15m Through the overlap and follow the face above. his pitch is quite good.
Se
The Siege of Sebastapol
Grade 16
7 Bolt
27m
CR
Cry me a River
Grade 16

CL
The Charge of the Light Brigade
Grade 19
7 Bolt
sustained steep slab on small crimps
TH
Te Heke
Grade 15
Follows a jagged crack line to the left of the bolts. Shares the belay to L.
BF
Battle Fatigue
Grade 17

-
Un-named
Grade 21
Starts behind tree to R of Battle Fatigue following R edge of slab to finish at the same anchor.
SC
Santas Chimney extension
Grade 18, 0
11 Bolt Trad
1. 25m This was originally the continuation pitches of Santa Chimney but it is probably worth treating as a stand alone climb since it is easily accessed from the top end of the Crimea Wall.Up the curving line to overlap then hard moves to ledge. 9B
2. 20m Up slab to thin crack, wires and small cams. From the top follow track through scrub across and down to Orange wall. 2B

Showing all routes 13 routes total Time 20min

Sports - 13 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21
Javelin access 4Orange%20wall 0

The orange coloured wall with a small overlap crossing it, above the Crimea Wall and above and right of Javelin Wall.

Access: Approach as for Javelin and Crimea Walls. Start up the LHS of the scree below the Twin Cracks wall may be marked. Follow track until you below a against a smooth wall - follow the track R and up until you are on the spur again continue past the turnoff to the Javelin Wall and instead of moving R to reach the Crimea Wall climb over a small rocky knob. A rough track with some fixed rope heads up to end below the middle of the Orange Wall. NB The description in Rock Deluxe South should be avoided as it is about twice as long as the new one. DESCENT: Back the same way or head to the left of the wall and follow the old track into the stream bed - descend down this with some downclimbing or abseil options and eventually you will arrive at the bottom of the Javelin Wall.

BE
The Bitter End
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m Start where the approach trail rounds the lowest point of the wall. Up a short wall and rock over onto the slab then rock on up.
LL
Lemon & Lime
Grade 16
4 Bolt
10m There are two short slab routes Lemon and Lime and Mandarin left of an access rope. Best approach is from left end of crag.
Mn
Mandarin
Grade 16
4 Bolt
10m Two short pitches with interesting moves. (Access gully with fixed rope)
Sq
Squirt
Grade 20
3 Bolt
12m A short techo problem. Tom took a few falls above the top bolt on the first ascent.
Ja
Jaffa
Grade 20
5 Bolt
18m Some fine crimpy climbing that eases off at the top.
Bs
Bittersweet
Grade 19
7 Bolt
22m Positivley thin.
FS
Freshly Squeezed
Grade 17
8 Bolt
26m Climb through the weakness and then through the overlap, finishing delicately towards the top.
Ct
Clementine
Grade 19
9 Bolt
28m Trends left to avoid loose looking blocks at the overlap.
OM
The Orange Men
Grade 21
14 Bolt
30m Some fine climbing up the seam to a tricky smear and step through at the roof.
PB
Peeled Back
Grade 21
9 Bolt
30m Tricky moves through three overlaps.
-
Unnamed
Grade 19
12 Bolt
45m Long route on RH S of red wall crossing two overlaps and diagonals to the upper R of the wall. Start just left of trees at a bolt and chain link then follow seam to roof which is pulled on good grips.
RD
Rodeo Drive
Grade 21, 18
19 Bolt
1. continue up gully past the Orange wall, scramble to base then some broken ground to a fine finger crack and spacious ledge.
2. A long and varied slab pitch to Rap station, 60m rap to base.
-
Bucking Alley
Grade 21
9 Bolt
To the left of Rodeo Drive. A short 6-7 bolt 16 provides access to the ledge where the pitch starts.

Showing all routes 34 routes total

Trad - 30 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
CentralRight%20central%20slabsLeft%20central%20crag

Central Crags includes the following walls... -Twin Cracks - Crucifix Wall - The Gully - Revenge of the Podge Wall - Drug Abuse Wall - Lunar Wall

Access: From the main parking area follow the track as for the Red arete then after crossing the dry riverbed veer left and follow your nose. The obvious feature is the large scree at the base . The Central Gully being the obvious gully rising from the apex of the scree.

Attribution: Photos. Clayton Garbes. RHS Jeremy Smit

SC
Santa's Chimney
Grade 17, 17, 14, 18, 16
24 Bolt Trad
1. 30m Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix 4m left of Tremor. Up to small ledge and right to a step down. Up the left line to belay in a big niche.
2. 30m Out left onto the arete passing 2 bushes to the wide crack. This is 120 - 130 cm and takes camelot size 4 -4.5 for 10 m the slightly smaller gear.
3. 40m Easy slabs to scree and up easy rock step to base of upper wall
4. 25m These pitches are really part of the Crimea Wall and can be climbed separately from there. Up the curving line to overlap then hard moves to ledge.
5. 20m Up slab to thin crack, wires and small cams. From the top follow track through scrub across and down to Orange wall
SL
Slipstream
Grade 16
45m Climb pitch 1 on Santa's Chimney then out right and climb R of the blunt arete (an older Mal Haskins project?) , 2 bolts when you leave the niche , small cams and wires with 7 bolts higher up.
T
Tremor
Grade 20, 21
1. 10m Climb up bolted slab to a sound ledge.
2. 20m Climb straight up the smooth wall, moving rightwards up and through the overhangs.
-
Thank God for Little Trees
Grade 15
A long, alpine style route with 11 pitches. Start at the Gully (at the top of the scree). Climb the gully for the first three pitches to reach and then climb the ridge to the top.
RP
Revenge of the Podge
Grade 21
37m There is a small ledge to the R of the Central Gully at the top of the scree. It can be accessed from either the left end or front R. Magic Messiah and Revenge of the Podge start from this ledge. Start to the left of MM, beware of loose rock at the top on the easy section.
-
Crafty Devil
Grade 16
Further up the wall, the hand crack left of the third pitch of Magic Messiah, small to large cams.
MM
Magic Messiah
Grade 14, 19, 14, 20, 2, 17, 14
10 Bolt Trad
1. 25m Start by climbing the cleaned strip past three bolts.
2. 25m Climb past bolts and into left hand crack to the anchors on a sloping ledge.
3. 20m Follow the sloping vegetated corner to the right-hand side of a tree and a stance below a steep slab.
4. 25m Ascend the crack through the roof. Anchor at the tree.
5. 50m Scamble up the edge of the scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar.
6. 45m Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.
7. 30m Climb easily in an amazing position. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil.
SS
A Slovakian Nightmare
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m Climb the first pitch of MM. Follow the bolted wall up to the right.
JC
Jagged Crack
Grade 17
Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging.
HF
Hairline to Forty
Grade 23
A fine crack needing thin wires and small cams.
AB
Angels Buttress
Grade 19
Starts off the ledge at the top of Seamstress, face climbing on small gear.
PD
Poison Dwarf
Grade 20
4 Bolt
12m Start at the right-hand side of the Gully (from the ground) and climb a narrow, brushed wall.
Ss
Seamstress
Grade 18, 19
1. 10m From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
2. 10m Technical climbing on sound rock.
BM
Bonsai Master
Grade 18
29m Steep slab to a crack at half height 5 bolts then small to med cams and wires. Avoid the loose flake on the right near the start

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Javelin access 6Twin%20cracks 0

This is the small wall above the scree to the R of where the Javelin Wall track begins.

Access: From the car park cross the dry creek on the track to Red arete then head left towards the left end of the larger scree and the start of the Javelin/Crimea/Orange Wall tracks

B
Balls
Grade 19
17m Delicately climb the left-hand side of the small, clean face.
ED
Ethical Debate
Grade 21
18m Up the centre of Twin Cracks Wall, sneaking a few trad runners in Twin Cracks.
TC
Twin Cracks
Grade 17
20m The distinct crack.
-
Start
Grade 14
10m On a small wall, below and right of Twin Cracks. Climb through the roof on the left-hand side.

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 10

Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21

A short wall developed years ago that is mostly trad though some bolts protect the longish scramble back to higher anchors. There are loose rocks on the ledges above.

Access: On left side of the big scree below the Central Gully area.

ES
Easy Like Sunday Morning
Grade 20, 17, 16
1. 30m Climb first pitch on Crown of Gorse then left to higher belay. Up and left to break through the roof on bolts then small cams and wires to belay.
2. 15m The fine finger crack up to ledge and belay
3. 10m the curving finger crack in the grey wall. rap from tree (lead by Ruari macfarlane) possibly has had prior ascents
CoG
Crown of Gorse
Grade 15, 18
1. 15m Ascend the short wall to small ledge, using the right-hand crack for pro.
2. 30m Move above the ledge, past bolts, to a big ledge & rap station.
-
Crown of Thorns
Grade 18
Starts from the ledge at the top of Crucifix. Follow the vegetated crack trending slightly L. on face left of arete on gear. This route is crossed by the 2nd pitch of Crown of Gorse which trends R. Would need cleaning. Finishes L of a block pillar as you look up.
C
Crucifix
Grade 19
23m Climb the left-hand side of the wall. Once on th first top ledge pass a bolt to belay hidden under bushes.
DT
Doubtful Thomas
Grade 17
23m The thin flared crack up the middle of Crucifix Wall. Has a fixed peg below the first overlap
Cx
Crucifax
Grade 14
20m The wider flared crack on the right-hand side of the wall that trends slightly left. Starting left of a Broadleaf tree

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 10

tbc

R
Rehab
Grade 17
30m left arete of the Drug Abuse slab, start behind the broadleaf tree. Bolts to a finger crack with small gear, up arete to belay or continue through to DA belay. Also links up to start of Bonsai (short pitch with 2 bolts)
DA
Drug Abuse
Grade 22
16 Bolt
45m On the Drug Abuse Wall (has a strip of vegetaion down the middle) Climb the cleaned strip on the Lh-side. Retro-bolted March 2013.
-
Irvin's Route
Grade 22
45m Found between DA & AP. climb the face and crack.
AP
Atomic Punk
Grade 22
45m On the Drug Abuse Wall (has a strip of vegetaion down the middle) Climb the cleaned strip on the Rh-side. Gets committing and runnout past the overlap.

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 10

Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Right%20central%20slabs 0

tba

N
Nicked
Grade 18
11 Bolt Trad
55m This is the wall immediately to the left of the Red Wall looking from the road. Climb up the Lh-side of the wall bolts can be augmented with a small amount of trad gear. A belay at half height allows this pitch to be done as two shorter pitches and makes abseiling with a single rope possible.
NE
Nicked Extension
Grade 17, 17, 15
21 Bolt
1. 25m From the Nicked belay move p ramp then right into shallow scoop, move left and up to roof then right along ledge to belay.
2. 20m Tricky moves along right then up easy slab, watch rope drag at the corner
3. 40m tep right around the rib then broken slabs to top. 30m abseil to the bushes then through to the scree slope and walk down past Red Arete. Can rap the route with two 60m ropes
BA
Blue Arete
Grade 12
A 2nd pitch to Nicked. Veers L-wards to the arete
LT
Lunar Tick
Grade 19
10 Bolt Trad
50m On the Nicked Wall, (R of the main wall). Climb up the Rh-side of the wall, on the brushed streak. Bolts can be augmented with a small amount of trad gear.
HF
High Flier
Grade 16, 15
1. From the Slingshot belay up the slab on good wires to the arete and follow this to small ledge
2. On up the edge
St
Slingshot
Grade 20
60m On the upper left side of the Red Slabs. Access is by climbing the first two pitches of Shark Attack and then traversing leftwards. Follow the left-hand edge of the upper wall. Has some bolts.

Showing all routes 8 routes total

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Red wall v4.2 web

The main slabby wall to the right of the Central Gully. Probably the most climbed section of rock on the Sebastopol bluffs

Access: Park at the second lay by after the corner when driving towards the village from Unwin Lodge (about 1km). There is a DoC sign and a track that leads to Black Birch stream. On the other side of the usually dry creek bed a track heads towards the prominent slabby looking areas on the R. There is a scrubby scree further R. The R arete is the famous "Red arete". On descent, the rap stations on the Red Wall are a long way apart, requiring 2 x 50+m ropes, however there are also several mid stations around 30m apart. Alternatively walk off the top or rap down the Red arete if there is no one on it as there are plenty of abseil stations. Lets Go Bushwalking,Shark Attack and Red Arete have double rings for abseil descents mid-pitch on the first pitches, these are better left alone until you're descending. They are not pitch anchors. Normally people climb Red Arete and descend down Mako or Shark Attack. Mako is better if your ropes are even slightly less than 60m as the S.A station is a stretch on half a 60m rope. Life is better on descent with double ropes. WARNING: In case your rope is a bit short tie knots in the end. NOTE: The number of bolts may be different to that listed - feel free to update this.

Attribution: Topo Simon Middlemass

E
Ernie
Grade 18
6 Bolt
35m On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Shark Attack and the traverse leftwards past the start of Mako. Starts L of a vertical strip of vegetation.
B
Bert
Grade 17
6 Bolt
35m On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Shark Attack and the traverse up and leftwards. Shares the 1st bolt with Ernie and goes R of the vertical strip of vegetation.
MP
Miss Piggy
Grade 17
45m On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first 2 pitches of Shark Attack or Lets Go Bushwalking and link pitch to the Mako anchor and the traverse leftwards. Start at 2B anchor near a dead tree. Climb veering R-wards to a crack then through an overhang. Once above the roof, move back L-wards past a bolt. Note it is further R than on the topo.
LGB
Let’s Go Bushwalking
Grade 14, 15
18 Bolt
1. 35m Take the left-most line of bolts on the lower Red Slabs..Climb directly up the wall over a couple of overlaps on great rock move left to easier ground after an double ring abseil anchor to a belay stance 5m higher
2. Head out leftwards from the anchor on a rising traverse up and over a small overlap to an anchor hidden behind a bush .
-
Unnamed
Grade 13
6 Bolt
20m Climb the first pitch of Lets Go Bushwalking to the anchor - not abseil rings ( ie to where LGBW pitch 2 goes left) then continue up the slab above past another 6 bolts to either the Mako ( through a bit of scrub) or Shark Attack anchors. Can be done as one long 50m pitch with 16 Bolts.
SA
Shark Attack
Grade 14, 16
18 Bolt
1. 50m This climb starts from a double hanger anchor slightly left of where the track arrives. Climb up the slab between two ribs before moving left up and over the left rib. Continue up a small corner or R into the large yellow scoop then left past a double ring abseil station and straight up through a small overlap .
2. 37m A great pitch on small holds.Continue up the fine red wall first out R the veering back L to finish on the big ledge on Red arete
RA
Red Arete
Grade 14, 13, 15
26 Bolt
1. 37m Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives at then move across behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.
2. 36m This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (2 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.
3. 20m Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor. Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep sligtly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor.
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Red Arete Alternative Start aka Antons Route
Grade 13
8 Bolt
37m An alternative start to Red Arete, starting 3m right of that route and climbing to the belay station at the top of the first pitch.

Showing all routes 2 routes total

Grey%20slabs

Take Red Arete track and continue up scree and right to gully below the Grey Wall. Keep on the left side and up broken ledges rightwards to the base. Rap anchors in left gully for descent.

SS
On the Shady Side
Grade 17, 15, 17
1. Starts low down on the left up slab to ledge.
2. Up short wall to bolted slab.
3. Right and up to ledge on right. Bolt belays 30m apart for descent.
SOG
Shades of Grey
Grade 17, 19, 21, 18, 18
1. Up short wall to bolted slab.
2. Left then up to first overlap then left to belay.
3. Steep balance moves through 2 overlaps.
4. Climb outside edge of large flake to belay on good ledge.
5. Right across ledge then up slab. Belay rings 30m apart for descent.

Showing all routes 8 routes total

Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Alpine - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Kingfisher

A small outcrop of red rock slabs to the right of the main Sebastopol crags.

Access: From the carpark follow the track towards the Red Arete but veer R along the dry stream bed until you are below the crags. A well formed track zig zags up the hill arriving below Keep Left arête.

CH
Clean Hands
Grade 20
20m On the Lh- Side of the Kingfisher Wall. (A small red crag, on the right hand side of the large central scree). Good edgy climbing.
CC
Conservation Crack
Grade 0
20m The curving crack on the Lh end of the Kingfisher Wall. (A small red crag, on the right hand side of the large central scree).
DD
Dirty Digits
Grade 19
40m On the Lh-side of the middle slab of Kingfisher Wall, (A small red crag, on the right hand side of the large central scree).
Kf
Kingfisher
Grade 16
40m The crack in the middle slab of the Kingfisher Wall. Currently this is totally overgrow and requires SERIOUS gardening efforts to resurrect it to claimable condition.
Ss
Serias
Grade 20
10 Bolt
35m The slab to the R of the Kingfisher crack.
KL
Keep Left Arete
Grade 17
9 Bolt
35m On the Rh-end Kingfisher Wall. Climbs the Lh- side of the Rh wall. If you have a 60m rope you will need to swing R to the ledge by the Totara tree to touch down safely
Sl
Sustalyte
Grade 18
30m On the Rh-end Kingfisher Wall. Climb up the Rh-side of the Rh wall. Take some wires for a crack after the 5th bolt. It is still quite run out after that till the next one.
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Un-named
Grade 17
9 Bolt
30m There is a route on the RHS of the Kingfisher Slabs. 1Grade 17/18. Put up by some of the Mt Cook SAR Team. Shares the RH anchor

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Poo%20ponds%20crag 0

Slightly overgrown climbs behind the sewage ponds.The lowest (first) climbs are those on the Poo Pond Slabs.There are 2 (or 3) climbs (one protected by an old piton) on the lower wall. The R and L being bolt protected.

Access: Cross Black Birch stream opposite the oxidation ponds and follow tracks up the scree. The first obvious area behind some trees is the Poo Pond Slabs.

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Scorpio's Sting
Grade 16
5 Bolt
25m Arete. Chain Anchor.
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The Snout
Grade 14
4 Bolt
22m Climb the narrow rib in the trees moving R at 2/3 height. Chain Anchor.
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Nature's Good Will
Grade 13
2 Bolt
Short climb left of the Poo Pond slab over a small bulge - better than it looks.
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Robin's route
Grade 15
Probably the best way to climb the Poo Pond slabs now is to do this pitch (on the left of the wall over an over lap) and the original Poo Pond Slab Pitch 2 directly above it. Left most line on the slab. Step left at the 2nd bolt before stepping up over the overlap.
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Poo Pond Slab
Grade 17, 15
12 Bolt
1. 15m A line of bolts (mossy?) on the R of the wall to the ledge.
2. 36m Interesting climbing.The first bolts are remarkably close together then the gap and the clips get further apart.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Small craglet sitting between the Poo Pond Slabs and the Red Tarns Bridge.

Attribution: Jim Spencer

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The Lame Blue Duck
Grade 14
5 Bolt

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Pay yar rates
Grade 16
5 Bolt

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Showtime
Grade 14
5 Bolt

Showing all routes 5 routes total 2749 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Turner's Couloir
Grade 1.75
Catch the boat up the lake and then cross the Murchison River. Alternatively, cross the Tasman Glacier and then deal with the Murchison River. Ascend an unnamed creek to the prominent couloir leading up between Nun’s Veil and Mt Biretta. From the top of couloir climb a rock ridge to the summit.
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Unveiled
Grade 4.25
Takes the central buttress on the West Face. Head up the groove on the left hand side of the face, continue past two rock bands (top one may be snow filled), then tend left into a gully leading to the top. The route involves 900m of climbing, compact pink slabs, chimneys, scrambling and one crux pitch of grade 20.
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Gorilla Stream Route
Grade 1.25
Catch the boat to the south-eastern side of the lake and travel south to Gorilla Stream, some parties have crossed the Tasman River near to Gorilla Stream – but this may not be possible in summer). Follow Gorilla Stream and ascend easily up the glacier to the summit. The last bit to the top is a bit exposed. The top offers a glorious viewpoint. At the head of Gorilla Stream a bivvy rock offers a small amount of protection (take a fly to add to it). From the lake to the bivvy rock allow ~6hrs.
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Pinnacle Stream Route
Grade 0
Use the Jollie River, then Pinnacle Stream.

Showing all routes 1 route total

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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The Far Side
Grade 5
Takes the central buttress of the East Face, following 700m of quality rock (16 pitches) with a crux of 16. A route that requires commitment. The first ascent team descended Turners Couloir.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2290 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Can be climbed via Botanical Spur (as marked on map BX16) or from Irish Creek. Both can be accessed from south of the Tasman Lake.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2401 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Straightforward from the top of Gorilla Stream.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2490 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

-
Unnamed
Grade 0
Climb Gorilla Stream to a scree slope and continue up to a col on the SW ridge via a right branch of scree. Follow the SW ridge to the summit. Gendarmes on the ridge can be turned on the NW side. An alternative route lies up the SW ridge from Tasman Point, traversing Mt Caitriana (1763m) and Cow Block Saddle (1821m) over poor rock.

faces north-west

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McKinnon Route
Grade 2.75
a line linking the prominent rock spurs

Showing all routes 1 route total

From Chop Creek

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Central Rib
Grade 2.75
Unexpectedly sound rock lower down leading to mixed sections if early summer or rock there after; the central rib on the south face is the right-hand skyline in photo

Showing all routes 1 route total 2343 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

tba

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Unnamed
Grade 0
From the head of Gorilla Stream traverse the north ridge. Alternatively, climb from Chop Creek.