Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 366 routes total

Sports - 253 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 105 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 8 routes - avg. grade V2 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5 V6+
Castle%20hill%20region

Castle Hill, Redcliffe, Mt Somers. For alpine routes please see the Canterbury Westland Alps and Aoraki Mount Cook sections of this site.

Showing all routes 139 routes total 1688 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 70 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 69 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

Mount Somers is composed of extensive volcanic formations of Andersite, Pitchstone and Rhyolite. As a result its soils are less fertile than neighbouring Mount Peel or Mount Hutt and have a very different flora. The rugged northern and southern faces of Mount Somers mark major fault lines, exposing columns and cooling fractures.

Access: http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-visit/canterbury/mid-and-south-canterbury/mt-somers-conservation-area/

Showing all routes 33 routes total Time 1.5 hrs 800 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 32 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 12 0 - 16

From Woolshed Creek hut there are currently four crags that have been developed which are at various points off the track leading towards Pinnacles hut.

Access: From Mt Somers township take the Ashburton Gorge Road, turning right on to Jig Road to reach the Woolshed Creek carpark. It’s about 1.5 hours walk to Woolshed Creek Hut.

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 25-30mins 900 m

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
1

From Woolshed creek hut walk for approx 20-25 minutes up the track towards the saddle that leads to Pinnacles hut. About 50m past where the track goes infront of a large Pinnacle (Karearea crag) head right off the track for 200m towards a honeycombed wall. Routes described from left to right

7
Holey Moley
Grade 13
4 Bolt
12m First climb on the left hand side of crag.
6
Anaphaltic
Grade 15
7 Bolt
18m
5
Adrenalin
Grade 17
7 Bolt
20m
4
Bit of a Buzz
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m
3
Honeycomb
Grade 16
7 Bolt
16m
2
Beehive
Grade 16
5 Bolt
16m
1
Honey Puff
Grade 16
5 Bolt
17m

Showing all routes 13 routes total 800 m

Sports - 13 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
2

From Woolshed creek hut head up and over the hill on the track towards Pinnacles hut. Where the track meets the stream at the bottom of the hill, cross the stream and head directly up the hill for 150m. Routes are described from right to left for the main wall and again for the wave of rock in front.

11
Protected
Grade 11
4 Bolt

12
Threatened
Grade 22
5 Bolt
Steep face climb to the right of Protected
13
Lizard back
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Front wave of rock detached from main crag. This route follows arete staying on the steep side
10
Camouflaged
Grade 15
4 Bolt
Short left hand arete
-
Nocturnal
Grade 18
4 Bolt

-
Reptile
Grade 19
4 Bolt

-
Omnivores
Grade 20
6 Bolt

6
No blinkie
Grade 18
10 Bolt

5
Sticky feet
Grade 21
7 Bolt
Up through the scoop
4
42
Grade 20
8 Bolt

3
Autotomise
Grade 17
5 Bolt

2
Chirpy
Grade 18
6 Bolt
Finishes on the same ledge as Egg-less
-
Egg-less
Grade 14
4 Bolt
Right hand side of the crag. Up broad arete, through 2 small steps to finish on big ledge

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 20-25 minutes from Woolshed creek hut

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 17 - 21
34

From Woolshed creek hut walk on the track towards the saddle which leads to Pinnacles hut for 20-25 minutes. The crag is located where the track passes next to a large Pinnacle with a overhang at the base. From the right hand side of the overhang there is a rough track/scramble along the base of the Pinnacle heading to the right. Climbs are described from right to left.

-
Clutch
Grade 11
4 Bolt

-
33 days
Grade 12, 15
10 Bolt
1.
2.
-
Nest-less
Grade 14
6 Bolt

-
Mainly birds
Grade 12
6 Bolt

-
Jugular
Grade 14
5 Bolt

-
$20
Grade 14
6 Bolt

-
Live Prey
Grade 18
11 Bolt
32m
-
Talons
Grade 20, 15
16 Bolt
1. 32m
2. 15m

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 15 minutes from Woolshed creek hut 850 m

Dscf0635

From Woolshed creek hut head to the water caves on the track towards Pinnacle hut. Take the track to the water caves and follow the painted red dots along the creek bed until you find a reasonable sized face to the left.

18VS
18 Volt Smash
Grade 17, 15
15 Bolt
1. 20m Climb the wall (crux) and onto the slabs above. easy climbing to anchor.
2. 25m Climb up a direct line in the centre of the wall.
10AF
10 Amp Fuse
Grade 17
8 Bolt
25m Starts from the Pitch 1 anchor of 18 Volt Smash. The route climbs the blobby arete feature to the left of the anchor.
D
Dewalt
Grade 18
9 Bolt
32m Starts uphill and right of 18 Volt Smash. Climb the slabs to the overlap. Climb through and finish up the arete.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 15 min 850 m

Dscf0639

The closest wall to Woolshed Creek Hut on the true right of the river.

Access: From Woolshed Creek Hut, follow the 4WD track towards the river to the highest point. From there traverse left across the open slopes to the crag.

-
Headwind
Grade 19
10 Bolt
25m Climb up onto the small slab and follow this to the steep ground. Head straight up the grove (easier moves to the right) and onto the rounded arete. Route moves left around the arete and up to the anchors. Route can only just be abseiled on a 50m rope. Walking off is easier.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 20min 870 m

An amphitheatre formed around and beside a waterfall of what is locally known as Tri Falls Creek. Currently one known climb exists although there is potential for many more harder climbs up to 75m in length.

Access: From the Woolshed Creek Hut, follow the Mt Somers / Rhyolite Ridge Track South for approximately 20 minutes until it crosses what is locally known as Tri Falls Creek. From here follow a sign posted track upstream to a "waterfall" which drops in from one side of the amphitheatre. The top of the amphitheatre can be accessed by continuing on the Mt Somers / Rhyolite Ridge Track gaining ~100m in elevation before scrub bashing to Tri Falls Creek above the water fall.

-
What goes down can come up
Grade 12, 15
1. 20m To the left of the waterfall base, scramble / climb up for 8m before topping out onto a sloping ledge system. Walk to back of this being carefull to keep your shoes dry to find a double bolt anchor.
2. 25m Climb the wall to the left of the waterfall staying "just" out of the spray on clean and dry rock. An absorbing pitch with the crux between the first and second bolts. Double bolt anchor.

Showing all routes 106 routes total Time 3 hrs 1688 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 68 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 38 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Somers accessSomers%20topoMain%20topo

Tumbling down the north side of Mt Somers are huge columns of rhyolite which form one of the best climbing areas in Canterbury. The routes are long and sustained outings up grooves and arêtes up to three pitches high. Over the past two years these, together with andesite pinnacles lower in the valley, have been developed mostly by a small group of Oamaru climbers. There are now over 60 routes, grades 9 to 25, with potential for many more.

Access: The track to Pinnacles Hut starts from the Sharplin Falls car park. Turn off the Geraldine to Darfield road 5km north of Mount Somers Village (10km south of the Mt Hutt Ski Field entrance) at the Stavely sign, and follow the road across the bridge and turn right to the Falls. The track climbs steeply for the first half an hour over Dukes Knob before dropping back down to the stream bed above the falls. Follow the stream for 40 minutes, then take the sidling path to Pinnacles Hut, about 2 hours or 3 for a slow party. Pinnacles Hut has 19 bunks but is often full over summer weekends and is popular with school parties. The climbs start 10 minutes above the hut. It’s 25 minutes to the Orange Wall.

Attribution: Murray Judge

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 3.5hrs 150 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
UntitleddrawingPyrimad 0

East of Christian Principles Crag is another couple of crag that have recently had ascents done on them. Standing at Pinnacles Hut, the crag is the prominent pyramid shape crag to the left of C P Crag. Grid Ref 798 310 Methven Map

Getting There

  • Go to the Point on the track where the Pinnacles Hut is first seen. Grid ref 799 317.
  • Climb on to the rocky knob uphill from the track.
  • Drop off knob downhill across grass to upper LH side where grass meets the scrub. Look for a cairn and go through scrub (semi-cut track) to dry creek bed.
  • Go between two big boulders  and venture up LH creek bed (true right).
  • To avoid the bluff/ waterfall leave the creek bed on the LH side once above traverse back right into the creek bed.
  • When the creek goes left, go straight uphill onto terrace.
  • Go right into next creek under small waterfall.

There is a few flat sleeping ledges, the “Babbling Brook Biv”

Look left to old rope and use it to navigate left under pyramid 798 310. Base of Crag.

There are also Routes on the right hand crag: Babbling Brook Right. The climbs require a reasonable selection of trad gear but also have bolts where the trad gear runs thin. Enjoy!

G&S
Greg & Sharon’s Climb
Grade 17
45m Red face, tending right, straight up to belay anchor at 1st pitch of SD & TWF. Trad gear.
WF
The Weta File
Grade 21, 17, 19
1. 50m From same ledge start as SD up wall past bolts to roof. Through roof, up crack to same Rap stn as SD.
2. 30m Left Hand Option. Left up obvious crack back right to rap stn.
3. 25m Direct Option Up past two bolts and onto crack straight to rap stn.
SD
Stunt Double
Grade 18, 21, 15
1. 40m Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. (As for Eco Terrorist). Rap anchors on right. Traverse left along ledge.
2. 21m Wall past 3 bolts to LH bolt @ overhang. Through overhang (bolt) to RH corner, and up slabs past bolt to rap station.
3. 25m Up right to RH corner, to small roof, go left to rap station.
ET
Eco Terrorist
Grade 18, 19, 18
1. 40m Start at bolt go up LH corner right at break and up arête to ledge. Rap anchors on right.
2. 50m Straight up wall under roof to RH corner past bolts. Once under roof traverse left and then up slab to single bolt belay + trad back up
3. 50m RH corner until corner runs out and then up head wall to top of crag. Recommend abseiling down “Tall Order”
TO
Tall Order
Grade 17, 18, 18, 17
1. 40m Up middle of RH slab thin vertical crack at 2/3rds height and up to rap stn.
2. 30m On to block up right follow bolts up walls and ledges past bolts, at top ledge move right to rap stn.
3. 30m Up right then back left up obvious RH corner systems onto slab and rap stn.
4. 30m Up to RH crack on head wall and climb to summit.
DoS
Dirty Old Slab
Grade 17
45m Start up rough looking slab left of arete. Climb up slabs to trad anchor 30 meters right of bolt anchor for Tall Order.
MR
Mercury Rising
Grade 18, 15
1. 40m Start at 3rd pitch of Tall Order. Clip 1st bolt, then ascend R-wards across slabs into the corner. Climb the corner system the move L-wards onto a small ledge, then climb the headwall past 2 bolts, then using a series of cracks for pro to the double bolt belay.
2. 30m Cruise/ scramble to the top of the pyrimad to pick up the Abseil descent down. Tall Order
Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21 22 - 25
%252520bb%252520topo%5b1%5d 1

East of Christian Principles Crag are another couple of crags that have recently had ascents on them. Standing at Pinnacles Hut, the crag is the prominent pyramid-shaped crag to the left of C P Crag (Grid Ref 798 310 Methven Map). Most of the climbs have thin cracks, for gear and thin edges for your feet. The first known ascent was put up by Greg Jack & Jean Tomkins, which was named Lumberjack. Crax was assumed the first ascent of the crag but the second ascentionists found out they were not breaking new ground. Over a few visits, Kevin Barratt, Grant Piper, Dave Van der Krabben & Greg Low, added new climbs to the crag. Lindsay Main & Hugh Logan, carried on the fine tradition of bagging first ascents. Best link up; bottom pitch of Lumberjack/ Crax, and top pitch of Aftershox.

Access: Go to the point on the track where the Pinnacles Hut is first seen (grid ref 799 317). Climb on to the rocky knob uphill from the track. Drop off knob downhill across grass to upper LHSide where grass meets the scrub. Look for a Cairn and go through scrub (semi-cut track) to dry creek bed. Go between two big boulders and venture up LH creek bed (true right). To avoid the bluff/ waterfall leave the creek bed on the LH side once above traverse back right into the creek bed. When the creek goes left, go straight uphill onto terrace. Go right into next creek under small waterfall. There is a few flat sleeping ledges, the “Babbling Brook Biv.”

DA
Dave’s Retreat
Grade 18, 17
1. 25m Up twin crack system to ledge.
2. 30m Up move left around nose up left facing corner, back right onto slab, left to rap station. 50m rap to ground.
c
Lumberjack
Grade 18, 18
1. 45m Start up apron below twin crack system to ledge and then climb the twin crack system to DBB.
2. 25m Go left from DBB through slightly overhung horizontal strata to top of crag.
C
Crax
Grade 18, 18
1. 45m Follow up first pitch of Lumberjack to DBB
2. 25m Follow bolt around rhs of roof, up to bolted corner, back left to top out up face.
L
Lox
Grade 22
45m Up 2 corners right of DR to small ledge, up thin crack directly under rap station until crack runs out round via left up to rap station. Take RPs & other brass micro nuts.
AS
Aftershox
Grade 18, 20
1. 40m Start up apron to ledge, then move up cracks right of the thin crack (Lox) past bolt to DBB.
2. 35m Move right past bolts and into corner to the right of 2nd pitch of Crax. Pro in thin crack (bring your brassys, RPs.) Crack gets bigger furthur up
Su
Sudoku
Grade 19
40m Traverse L-Wards along ledge to single bolt. Start the the climb up the wall to the base of a left facing corner. when the corner gets to thin go up the next corner right for few metres then regain the main Lh facing corner to the top. Twin rope set up is useful.
Cr
Copyright
Grade 18
35m Start just left of promontory. Climb past 2 bolts up a L-facing corner using the crack that gets thinner as you ascend the climb.
T
Abit On The Toes
Grade 19
30m A hard start on your toes then eases off towards the top, following crack right of big left facing corner. Left of The Weta the better.
WB
The Weta the Better
Grade 18
30m Use right thin crack and part of arete to ascend slab find rap station out to right
-
Babylon
Grade 17
30m Just right of TWTB is a very vegetated crack, and immediately right is this shallow groove. Start just to the right below another groove and pull through a small roof on to the wall. At the vegetated ledge move left to join the diagonal crack and climb this, trending right to the groove. Thin moves follow with good protection, mainly from cams, finishing up a crack directly to the TWTB anchor. Abseil cautiously from the badly placed anchor.
-
Proletarian
Grade 17
30m Just another one – a companion route up the groove immediately right of Babylon. Varied gear including wires and cams. Scramble up to the small roof, pull through and climb the groove. At the top is a bonus hand crack slightly to the right.
-
Dutch Auction
Grade 19
28m Right hand end of crag, up crack to RH facing corner through small overhang near top.
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Somers cpcrag

The prominent crag on the ridge above the East Pinnacle.

BBC
Bring back the cane
Grade 15
22m Crack to the left of the groove.
SS
Sunday School Felching
Grade 16
22m Climb the cracks in the groove to the left of the broad arête.
BS
Buns of Steel
Grade 19
22m Two bolts on the broad arête.
SN
Screams in the Night
Grade 17
22m Takes a small sharp arête then moves onto a wall on the right with an obvious crack system, loose at the top.
SNB
Sleeping with the Nasty Boys
Grade 16
22m Takes the left hand of the two prominent ribs in the centre of the crag.
CP
Corporal Punishment
Grade 16
22m The right arête, tending R at the top.
S
The Staircase
Grade 17
31m Starts up the groove capped by a small roof and takes the roof at a small bush on the right.
SB
Six of the Best
Grade 17

Showing all routes 8 routes total 1150 m

Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21

100 metres up the hill above  Christian Principals Crag  is a short crag with two prominent ribs in the middle.

-
A Springtime Festival in Autumn
Grade 17
19m Takes a very blunt arete split by a crack, to a wall above with an obvious crack system.
-
Spare Rib
Grade 13
17m Two metres right of above, takes the left hand of the central aretes.
-
Misty Mountain Hop
Grade 18
16m Four metres to the right, takes a broad arete with a groove.
-
Weta Waltz
Grade 15
16m Bridging up twin cracks
-
Frankfurter Duet
Grade 14
15m
-
Saveloy Heavan
Grade 14
15m
-
Beef Flavoured Sausages
Grade 13
15m
-
Porno Star
Grade 15
15m Four metres to the right, takes a broad arete with a groove.

Showing all routes 6 routes total 1150 m

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 16
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21

On the ridge above the West Pinnacle (Left of the Far Side Crag).

Access: Goto the top of "The Far Side". Traverse Left

-
Terrible Tales of Teenage Angst
Grade 20
13m
-
Parthenope
Grade 0

-
Bucket of Fino
Grade 0

-
Foggy Notion
Grade 0

-
Watch the Itchy Gobo Blow
Grade 0

-
Scuttle
Grade 0

Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 21 17 - 21
Climbnz%20014

The walls that have the waterfall in the middle of them. The Far Side is to the Left of the waterfall and the Waterfall Wall is to the right of the waterfall.

Access: Go to the top of the "Orange Wall" walk left (east) across the top of the Orange, Fortress & Waterfall Wall to the top of the Far Side. It is also reasonably straight forward to access the base of the "Jolly Swagman" by scrambling down and left from the base of the orange wall below the fortress to the pool.

NW
No Weasals
Grade 18
30m The bridging chimney at the left end of The Far Side.
FS
The Far Side Buttress
Grade 19
32m The crack up the centre of the buttress.
ND
New Age Deceit
Grade 21
33m Some 'Scottish' style bridging to reach the upper groove, use 3 bolts on right.
DM
Dubious Means
Grade 24
33m A fine bridge with some tricky finger work makes the crux.
TC
The Contortionist
Grade 23
38m The start was easier before the block fell out. Sketchy climbing to get to the first bolt. Then bridge and chimney in the groove, then move left at the roof, then back right on the upper wall.
PP
Pain and Pleasure
Grade 24
11 Bolt Trad
38m (Formerly called Weta). The finger crack has fallen off but the rest of the route is still as hard, lead with three rests.
Gk
Gecko
Grade 21
5 Bolt
38m Up a bridging groove to the roof, step right to the crack and hand traverse back left above the roof then up a shallow corner.
-
The Far Side of Never
Grade 21
40m Pull through a small roof into the groove, using the three bolts on the right.
LH
The Longest Hardest Climb
Grade 21
42m Abseil in, climb up right of the roof and up the shallow crack to the ledge before traversing left to the groove.
JS
Once a Jolly Swagman
Grade 16, 16, 20
1. 20m Start at the pool and scramble up left to a single bolt belay, climb the easy groove to the break and hand traverse left to the upper groove (original line) or continue up the groove and traverse at the top.
2. 20m crosses the bushy ledge to a layback start, tending right up the cleanest rock to a step left at a bolt.
3. 32m follows a superb groove to the ledge and left up broken blocks. It can be descended in two rappels but probably safer to make three and avoid the swing under the waterfall.
JJ
Where's My Jolly Jumbuck?
Grade 19
Starts from the last belay of Swagman, traverse right and up the next groove to rejoin the route at the ledge, Andrew Mcfarlane followed directly up the crack at (21).
KC
Koala in a Coolibah Tree.
Grade 21
A finger crack from the start of the hand traverse on pitch one of Swagman.
WW
Wailing Wall
Grade 22
32m Best approached by abseil, climb the right facing corner to the roof with a wide bridge to pass this.
Ts
Tsunami
Grade 16, 15, 24
10 Bolt Trad
1. starting off the "beach" at the foot of the waterfall, climb the slab to a belay on the bushy ledge
2. go left and up a short slab and back right onto a short buttress.
3. The third pitch takes the steep wall to the top, eight bolts.
H10
Hang Ten
Grade 24
32m Abseil to the Tsunami belay and clinb directly up to the triple roof, some wild moves through the overhangs.
Pl
Pipeline
Grade 23
32m Abseil to the belay, layback up the crack as high as possible, clip the bolt and reach for the holds. Step to the left to start the top section.

Showing all routes 8 routes total 1150 m

Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 13 0 - 16
Somers fortress

60-70m high coloumned wall between the waterfall and Orange wall.

Access: Goto base of Orange Wall, scamble leftwards to the base of The Fortress

-
Scimitar
Grade 14, 21, 15
1. 20m
2. 21m
3. 15m
-
Banana Split
Grade 20, 15
1. 40m Traverse left at the second bolt, 45 metres, take a good sized rack of gear up to #2 friend.
2. 30m Up short crack and scamble out top.
-
Mississippi Mud Cake
Grade 17, 15
1. 40m Climb the slab then the shallow crack to the belay ledge.
2. 30m Move right and climb a short second pitch to the next belay.
-
Black Velvet Sin
Grade 18
More than a pitch in length, so needs a belay at half height.
-
Hotline to Jim
Grade 18
40m A long and pleasant arete, either scramble up from the bottom or abseil from the top to start. (some say its 19)
-
0800 Butch
Grade 23
11 Bolt Trad
40m The long groove to the right of HTJ
-
Psychological Trauma
Grade 24
40m The most obvious corner three metres right of Hotline, good moves, the upper wall above the break and arete are loose.
-
Crackline right of the broken arete
Grade 13, 19
1.
2. The second pitch is a 35 metre crack with a short third pitch on the upper buttress (7m).

Showing all routes 12 routes total 1150 m

Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 22 - 25
Somers orange

That obvious classic looking thing on the right of the main cliffs

Access: Follow Track Past and uphill from Hut Pinnacle.

-
What's Up Doc?
Grade 19
38m Climb the slab and curving crack to the bushy ledge(Rap anchor) and up the upper wall on run out bolts (due to a missing bolt) with no trad placements. Murray Judge '94
-
Have you been Stung?
Grade 19
38m Climb the shallow arete and layback the left side of the block, then directly up to the top.
-
Steady Eddie
Grade 23
10 Bolt Trad
38m Has been climbed by traversing left at the fourth bolt and back right at the seventh, a direct ascent would be much harder.
D
A La Weta
Grade 25
10 Bolt Trad
38m A sustained line keeping to the aréte.
-
Uno
Grade 21
38m A sustained route cleaned and climbed by Andrew on his first visit.
-
Skate
Grade 22
38m Thin bridging up to the superb finger crack.
-
Snapper
Grade 24
6 Bolt
38m The double cracks. One attempt with two rests.
-
Groper
Grade 22
38m The left facing corner, jamming and some fine bridging towards the top,
-
Orange Roughy
Grade 16
10 Bolt
32m Start at the foot of the Orange Wall going up and right to the hand traverse onto the arete. Murray Judge '94
-
Red Herring
Grade 16
32m The groove right of Orange Roughy.
-
Dogfish
Grade 15
31m Past two bolts and up a thin crack.
-
Sardine
Grade 15
31m

Showing all routes 29 routes total

Sports - 29 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

The Pinnacles behind the hut

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Somers east 0

Left pinnicale in the group of 3 Pinnicles As viewed from the Hut

Access: Through Creek uphill from hut. Walk across to West Pinnaclcle, along under base of pinnacles to East Pinnacle. 20 min from Hut.

CN
Crunchie Nuggets
Grade 16
7 Bolt
29m Move right up the lower wall then follow the arete.
-
Mellow-Puff
Grade 18
9 Bolt
28m Take the right tending line beside Crunchie Nuggets
HP
Hokey Pokey
Grade 19
8 Bolt
32m Start up the ramp then straight up a short wall on small holds.
PC
Pixie Caramel
Grade 19
8 Bolt
32m Up the ramp and around right to a shallow groove.
HD
Hound Dog
Grade 20
17 Bolt
37m Climb the front of the doggie flake, with lots of quickdraws!
PN
Perky Nana
Grade 16
8 Bolt
36m Bridge the lower wall and step up onto the arete, climb a slab to the top.
-
Whipped Cream
Grade 15
5 Bolt
15m To the right of Perky Nana. Finishes half way up the Pinnacle
Sports - 12 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Somers central

The Central Pinnacle is the largest Pinnacle in the centre oof the group of 3 pinnacles. The West Pinnacle is just to  the right hand pinnacle.

Access: Walk uphill through creek along to West Pinnacle Left along base of pinnacles to Central Pinnacle, aprrox 20min from Hut

-
Rocky Horror Show
Grade 21, 17
16 Bolt
1. Central Pinnacle. Climb into the bottom of the first scoop, traverse L below a roof and up the overhanging pillar on the left of the scoops.
2. Follow line of bolts to slab and top out. Andrew Mcfarlane, Murray Judge '96
-
Rocky Road
Grade 17, 20, 18
37 Bolt
1. 12m Central Pinnacle. Start on boulder to ledge.
2. 36m Leave ledge up via left line of bolts. Exciting climbing on the steep second pitch, even when the holds stay on!
3. 18m up face finishing on slab. 25m rap off rear.
-
Send the Bill
Grade 17, 21
9 Bolt
1. 12m Central Pinnacle. Start on boulder to ledge. As for RR.
2. 36m Right of RR to the shoulder. Finish P3 of RR. Murray Judge '96
-
Soap on a Rope
Grade 17
West Pinnacle. Starts behind the small pillar near the stream.
-
Same, Same but Different
Grade 17
3 Bolt
12m West Pinnacle Finish at the belay on the shoulder.
-
Fresh Start, Dude
Grade 22
4 Bolt
20m West Pinnacle. Just left of the water streak. Just left of the water streak.
-
Old Chap off the Block
Grade 19
5 Bolt
Starts to the lefet of Zephyr, off the block obviously
-
Zephyr
Grade 15, 14
11 Bolt
1. 22m West Pinnacle. A bit of a breeze
2. 23m
-
Andesite Ascension
Grade 13
5 Bolt
15m Starts beside a manuka tree slightly uphill and to right of the first pitch of Zephyr
-
Bloke and Digger
Grade 14
6 Bolt
Starts to the left of Cloak and Dagger.
-
Cloak and Dagger
Grade 14
4 Bolt
21m On the back of the Pinnacle, four bolts to the abseil point.
-
Nameless Girl
Grade 16
3 Bolt
12m West Pinnacle. A short arete on the boulder.
Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Somers hut

The nearest pinnacle (slab of rock) behind the hut 

Access: Walk uphill through creek, to nearest pinnacle. aproxx 10min from hut.

s
Strong
Grade 16
6 Bolt
22m
S
Silent
Grade 17
6 Bolt
22m
T
Type
Grade 18
5 Bolt
23m
E
Eh
Grade 22
8 Bolt
23m
Fr
Frisky
Grade 19
9 Bolt

Fo
Foxy
Grade 22
9 Bolt

Z
Zesty
Grade 23
7 Bolt
25m a fine climb on small holds.
Fe
Feisty
Grade 25
8 Bolt
25m another fine climb on small holds.
BC
Bart's Climb
Grade 12
5 Bolt
On the slanting pinnacle up to the right.
HS
High Step
Grade 20
7 Bolt

Showing all routes 219 routes total 500 m

Sports - 182 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 36 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V13 V6+

Castle Hill basin is one of the world's best bouldering areas.

Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/4

Access: Safety notice for visitors to Flock Hill. http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/flockhillsafetynotice BEFORE VISITING FLOCK HILL THE DETAILS BELOW MUST BE READ AND AGREED TO. Welcome to Flock Hill Station. We are required to advise you of potential hazards and basic safety requirements on Flock Hill. As the person taking responsibility for the visit please ensure all members of your party have read or are aware of the contents of this notice. Flock Hill is a working high country station. As such there are many potential and real hazards including but not limited to;

  • Livestock - Wandering and being mustered
  • Vehicles, plant and machinery including main trunk railroad
  • Unstable and un-maintained tracks
  • Swamps, waterways, rivers, caves, cliffs, old mines
  • Sudden changes in weather and river levels
  • Fire
  • Animal control – Shooting and poisoning
  • Weed control – machine and spraying (ground and air)
  • Other farm operations e.g. fertilizer (ground and air)
There is limited cell phone coverage at Flock Hill. You must have a pre agreed route or area you are visiting and have a person not with the group informed of who is with you, where you are going, when you are due out at the latest and what to do if you don’t make contact by the agreed time. Stick to your plan You are responsible to ensure all members of your party are suitably equipped for your intended visit especially in the event of a sudden deterioration of the weather. Generally we do not allow vehicles on Flock Hill. Where specific permission has been granted it is on the basis that all vehicles must stay on the tracks. Drivers must be experienced in off road four wheel drive operations and carry equipment to deal with emergencies. During summer every vehicle must carry at least one fully maintained 0.9 kg fire extinguish rated for class ABC fires and one shovel to deal with possible fire. Absolutely no dogs, firearms, smoking or naked flames on Flock Hill Leave gates as you find them. Please report any unexpected hazards on your return. Wilding pines are a menace; please pull out a few on your wanders! Enjoy your visit to Flock Hill Station

-
Trifecta Middle
Grade V13

Sports - 182 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 36 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Castle%20hill

Castle Hill is a spectacular limestone area adjacent to the Arthurs Pass Highway. There are hundreds if not thousands of boulder problems, and a smaller number of roped climbs at grades ranging from the mid teens through to 32. Most roped climbs are protected with 12mm coach bolts that do not take hangers, therefore you need to slip a wire over the head of the bolt and slide the nut tight up the wire. A few climbs require trad gear. Another very useful site for bouldering information is, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/areas

Access: Castle Hill is approximately 100km from Christchurch, towards Arthurs Pass on state highway 73. The area is on the west side of the road. There are restrictions on where you can climb or boulder on the rocks at Castle Hill. they are posted on the noticeboard at the carpark. The main closure is the Dark Castle PLEASE RESPECT THIS CLOSURE!! the area has rare plants, and Maori rock drawings. Here are some exerts from DOC's website. Ngāi Tahu wish to encourage respect for their association with Kura Tawhiti. A rock-climbing code is in place, and rock climbers are asked to be aware that to Ngāi Tahu, climbing the outcrops denigrates their tapu status. Code of conduct for Kura Tawhiti Visitors here to enjoy this intriguing landscape are asked to help protect these values by following the code of conduct. •Please stay on the access track - the paddocks are private property •Please use the provided toilet facilities •Refrain from digging holes or disturbing the ground surface - wahi tapu (sacred places) are here •Avoid trampling on endangered plants - use open spaces between rock outcrops rather than the bases of rock faces •Respect fenced areas •Take all rubbish away with you •Please do not mark the surface of the rocks •Consider others in the area •Rock climbers please follow the climbing code of conduct.

Sports - 40 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Spittle%20hill 1Spittle%20hill

The area of boulders south to the south of Woolly Valley. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/8

Access: Follow the main access track from the carpark, when you get closed to the big limestone boulders, look left. this area is Spittle Hill. The Cyclops Boulder (diamond shape boulder with the big pock in the centre), is a good place to orient yourself.

U
Usurper
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Thin Lh leaning crack on a white slab.
-
Time to Pack
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Line of pockets. Faces the farm.
-
Fire of my Loins
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Arete
TR
Tales from the Riverbank
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Climb up huge pocks.
-
Dark Side of the Moon
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Start as for TftR. Move R-wardsonto the wall over the corner onto the shelf.
-
Lily of the Valley
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Rib down & Rof TftR
DT
Death Trap
Grade 19
The crack behind TftR
-
Manufactured
Grade 22
2 Bolt
L of ODEM
-
Only Dogs Eat Meat
Grade 24
2 Bolt
R of DT
NP
Noxious Fish Plot
Grade 21
A small roun arete L of M. Traverse in from the L past the bolt to the thread runner finishing past the bolt.
FD
Frozen Dinners
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Slab Route on Rh-side of boulder
-
Married with Children
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Left of FD
-
Left Slab
Grade 20
2 Bolt

-
For Your Thighs Only
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Climb up steep pockets to th e scoop, and then onto a slab finishing past a horizontal break.
JC
Jumped Up Country Boy
Grade 14, 17
9 Bolt
1. Start on the R of the wall, trend L-wards crossing 4YTO
2. Trend R-wards after leaving the ledge.
-
Honey I Shrunk the Holds
Grade 27
3 Bolt
Go R-wards along the ledge to the big jug, then move L and upwards with some monos
-
Thrifty Belgians
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Climb the pocketed arete with a cap and smaal shrub at top.
-
Sculpting Time
Grade 20
2 Bolt
On the opposite side of the TB boulder. Scamble to a ledge, then start climbing.
Cm
Capitalism
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Exciting step up at the 3rd bolt.
-
Wedding Bells
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Climb the steepening slab, with an exciting clip on the 1st bolt.
GC
Groove Chicken
Grade 22
1 Bolt
The rounded groove.
-
Yet Another
Grade 18
1 Bolt
Found opposite from WB. Bouldery start to finish on pocks.
-
Miss Bojangles
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Uphill from YA. Start by rocking up on a small slab, and climbing a line of pockets finishing through a small overhang.
-
General Saint
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Opposite MB.
TA
Tectonic Awarness
Grade 21
1 Bolt
A pinnacle
-
Fat Transplant
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Just down from TA. Slab route.
-
Surf Nazis must Die
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Next boulder down from FT. Climb the wall with the big pock feature.
HH
Hitchhiking Horrors
Grade 19
2 Bolt
25m down from ToTR, to yellow/grey pocked wall. Follow the S shaped crack, exiting R-wards to top.
-
Fat Slags Slab
Grade 18
Slab to the L of Hp. Start on L, traveres R-wards into groove, over the flake sharing the finish with Hump.
Hp
Hump
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Small arete. Gain the ledge, then step L-wards along the flake.
-
Douglas McDougal
Grade 20
2 Bolt
On the yellow wall above Hump but below the roof. Move delicatley past the 2nd bolt, then L-wards to climb the crack to finish.
Br
Bullroarer
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Faces Woolly Valley. Start on big pockets then move R-wards up the slab, to set youself up for the final lunge at the top.
LT
L'Air du Temps
Grade 24
6 Bolt
Found on the back of the perfume bottle. Dyno up the north arete, then move L-wards upp the slab, the through the bulge and finishing up the groove.
OO
That Obscure Object of Desire.
Grade 18
2 Bolt
On the Craigiburn side of the perfume bottle. Start up the slabs on the Rh-side.
-
Face
Grade 24
3 Bolt
On the purfume bottle. R of TOOoD
-
Baby Boom
Grade 21
Behind the perfume bottle. Smear on to the arete, cross the wall onto the groove.
-
Left Slab
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Start on Lh-side, climb through the bulge, finishing on a slab.
-
Right Slab
Grade 13
3 Bolt
The route to the R of LS
SY
Sickly Rebel Yellow
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Corner that features a groove.
Bt
Blots
Grade 24
3 Bolt
To the R of SRY. Climb through the middle of the large white wall.
-
Country Touch
Grade 20
3 Bolt
10m R of Bt
WT
What's This?
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Behind AP, on the same boulder.
AP
Allah Protects
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Found at the head of Woolly Valley, ascends the obvious yellow wall. Grovel out of the groove and ascend the yellow wall, to finish below the roof.
Sports - 86 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Quantum%25202Quantum%20side 0

The area of boulders in the middle of Castle Hill, north of Woolly Valley and South of Rambandit Valley. It has the main concentration of climbing in it. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/7

PN
Pumpkin
Grade 29
5 Bolt
Left of the arete, climb the right-hand side of the face.
Sc
Subculture
Grade 24
3 Bolt
A techincal, thin and bouldery face climb.
-
Strangers on Journeys
Grade 25
4 Bolt
Ascend the face.
-
Voodoo Child
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Start on AR but keep right.
AR
The Arch Route
Grade 21
Climb through the arch and exit R-wards.
-
Love Buckets
Grade 12
3 Bolt
Climb the slab with massive buckets in it.
-
Weasel
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Next to the cave/corner, techinical clips.
Va
Voila
Grade 20
3 Bolt
A short slab route
-
Cold Ethyl
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Start 4m R of LC. Climb L-wards up the slab.
-
Lonesome Cowboy
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Start on a block, then traverse in L-wards to fingerlocks and upwards through the bulge.
YP
The Yellow Peril
Grade 0
Find the yellow blocky corner and climb to R.
PM
Phil McKrakin
Grade 18
Abseil in to belay station, and ascend the crack back to the top.
MC
Marmaduke Goes Chipping
Grade 23
4 Bolt
Climb through the flute and flake to the 4th bolt.
-
The Haptic Channels
Grade 26
3 Bolt
The 2nd pitch or contination of MGC.
-
Chocolate Coated Razor Blades
Grade 27
7 Bolt
A fingery line that vias L-wards.
AG
Adios Gringos
Grade 25
7 Bolt
Climb the grey/ yellow streak to join onto the finish of CCRB
DS
Dance of Silence
Grade 29
5 Bolt
Climb the fingery wall to the left of Adios Gringos.
-
Pete's Eats
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Work through the hard start to the good pocket, then climb up the groove.
EI
Epics Incorporated
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Pock crank into the scoop, then upwards. The big pocket on the left side is off limits.
-
Dance of Violence
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Find EI belay station. Scamble across grass, the on to rock to fisih on the last bolt of DS
RN
Ramases Nibblick the 3rd
Grade 25
3 Bolt
...Kerplunk Kerplunk Whoops I've Dropped My Thribble. The slabby face R of GGS.
GS
Good Girls Spit
Grade 14
4 Bolt
Right of BBAS. Slab route.
BB
Bad Boys Always Swallow
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Climb the yellow corner.
GC
Gascrankinstation
Grade 26
5 Bolt
Slightly overhung face, with a shallow corner.
FB
On Some Faraway Beach
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Slab climb facing Rambandit Valley on Lh-side as you look at the Quantum Field. A slightly tricky start from the groove on the right (or a harder jump-and-crank direct start) then follow the bolts, veering left then right.
GF
Girls Just Wanna Have Fun.
Grade 14
5 Bolt
Arete on the L of SFB
To
Tocodiscos
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Climb the big yellow wall.
S&
Slap and Tickle
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the slabby arete.
-
Second Floor
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Smear climbing through and over the lip and beyond.
-
Mung Bean
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Climb through the scoop, and over the lip.
TD
The Downtrodden
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Climb the L leaning ramp onto a crack.
ST
Shout to the Top
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Climb the arete.
SU
Slip Up
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Climb up via L-wards to gain the arete.
-
General Ledger
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Start on the right. Move L-wards to finish through the hole.
JS
James' Slab
Grade 0
1 Bolt
Slab Route
-
The Black Vegetable
Grade 25
2 Bolt
Climb through 2 scoops.
-
Shriekback
Grade 18, 13
5 Bolt
1. Start on Rh-side of the slab, move L-wards under the overhang to to belay in the hollow.
2. Keep moving L-wards to the rap station
FB
Floppy Banana
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Pock crank up yellow grooves, via L-wards on upper wall.
-
Secret Covenant of Marriage
Grade 26
2 Bolt
Lh-side of wall
PG
Pathetic Gropes
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Climb L-wards up a ramp, then crank around the arete and onto the top.
MF
My Feet are my Friends
Grade 26
5 Bolt
Climb the groove.
-
Bloozin'
Grade 23
Start up SG. Travrese R-wards after the chockstones.
-
Expressway Pile Up
Grade 21
Opposite Hg Climb through short line of pocks, then on to slab, and finishing up laybacking a crack. Bolts Removed!
BL
Big Ling
Grade 16
2 Bolt

-
Little Ling
Grade 18
4 Bolt

LC
Limestone Cowboy
Grade 21
Climb the crack until it runs out and finish off on the face.
-
I'm the Boss
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Climb the wall on small edges.
-
Fraudulent Dreams of Teenage Appetite
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Bridgeing and slopers.
KR
King of the Road
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Short arete
MP
Mac's Plank
Grade 20
8 Bolt
Start off the pedestal, onto the boulder the traverse L-wards and upwards with the help of monos.
CM
Critical Mass
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Climb R edge of wall on big pockets
-
Spoonerama
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Same staart as CM. Traverese L-wards to a narrow corner, then head for the top.
Hi
Houdini
Grade 28
3 Bolt
Traverse L-wards then upwards on pockets.
TC
A Taste of Things to Come
Grade 21
5 Bolt
Go up L-hand of a whiite wall.
-
Afternoon Delight
Grade 22
3 Bolt
L of TT2C. Climb through and past pocketed scoop.
ST
As Snug as a Thug on A Jug
Grade 19
3 Bolt
The arete below TT2C.
1A
A One Arm Pull Up
Grade 20
3 Bolt
The slab below GtwW.
SL
Sid Lives
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Climb the long arete.
-
Unbearable Lightness
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Boulder start then a step up.
-
The 5.10d Off-width
Grade 21
Diagonal seam capped with a cracked boulder
-
Turkey Teeth
Grade 20
2 Bolt
Starts up a groove to finish up the wall.
DS
Dr Squat
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Start up the slab and move through spaced pockets and face climbing.
-
Sqaushed Gecko
Grade 17
A short off-width/ crack.
VG
Vicious Games
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Climb thin yellow wall, via R-wards onto finishing slab.
PD
Pig Dog
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Startb on pile, then traverse L-wards across pockets then up.
-
The Graze
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Slab route
EV
El Vista
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Climb the arete.
MB
Max Blanck
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Start up crack from L, and finish off the slab above the break.
-
The Day the World Stood Still
Grade 24
Thin crack.
WS
What's on the Slab
Grade 20
2 Bolt
Slab climbing with the help of slopey buckets
-
Victorialand
Grade 15
Crack to the L of WotS.
Ab
Arseyboo
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Climb the short rounded arete.
-
Scrotum
Grade 25
At a small gully R of SS. Start jamming and climb the crack.
SS
Sleazy Skankin'
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Start at the shallow groove, strech your way to the corner to finish on the arete.
-
Like Cockatoos
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the scoop between the first 2 bolts and continue on up
CC
Chit Chat
Grade 20
1 Bolt
The left exit from a big scoop
-
Yakkity Yak
Grade 22
1 Bolt
The right exit from the big scoop
-
Heretic
Grade 20
Climb crack. Hard start.
-
Offwiidth Problem
Grade 16
The south side of the HB boulder.
NE
Nether Edge
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the arete on the NW edge of the boulder.
HB
Hunters Bar
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Climb the yellow face, exit r-wards after clipping the 2nd bolt.
-
Put up your Dukes
Grade 28
3 Bolt
Climb the wall to the right of Heisenberg on drilled holds
Hg
Heisenburg
Grade 21, 24
5 Bolt
1. Climb the shallow groove to the belay ledge.
2. Climb pocketed arete.
-
Schrodinger
Grade 25
4 Bolt
Climb the thin face to the L of the arete
BP
Bonza Pipeline
Grade 24
4 Bolt
On the KitD boulder. Climb the groove in the middle of the wall
KD
Kiss in the Dreamhouse
Grade 20
8 Bolt
Slab route that faces woolly valley, some drilled holds!
RR
Roid Rage
Grade 23
3 Bolt
On the north side of the PC boulder. Edge and pock crank your way up a yellow overhung wall to the mantle finish.
SH
Suicide by Hallucination
Grade 26
2 Bolt
Rh-side of the slightly overhung yellow wall. Facing west.
MG
Moment of Greed
Grade 29
2 Bolt
Lh-side of the slightly overhung yellow wall. Facing west.
TA
Toxic Avenger
Grade 25
2 Bolt
10m L of MOG. Traverse R-wards into the climb and ascend the weakness.
PC
Pulse Constrictor
Grade 21
4 Bolt
Start in crack smear R-wards ten ascend face that is split by the finger crack.
-
Brooke Pantyshields
Grade 18
Off-width
Sl
Superlickerman
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Climb the yellow face.
-
Greenpiece
Grade 17
Climb large crack then move R-wards into another crack.
-
Le Roi du Con
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Hanging arete to the L of Sa. Abseil in, climb out.
-
Hurt So Good
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Uphill from TT2C. Climb the pocketed arete.
-
Gone with the Wind
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Prominant arete.
-
Digging for Fire
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Just L of GwtW. Start on cheat pile to gain pockets, then smear/ bridge?? to ascend the groove.
-
The Treadmill
Grade 28
2 Bolt
The finger crack that climbs through the bulge.
-
Offwidth Thing
Grade 16
Just along from BP
SE
Sea Egg
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Found on the north side of Woolly Valley opposite Allah Protects. Steep wall.
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21

The scarp crag above the lime quarrry

Access: The access is unknown, and may off limits. It is on Castle Hill Station. Sidle northwards aprrox 500m from the Dark Castle.

-
Make it Burn
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Climb the short Y crack onto a slab then a wall exiting around the roof.
-
Fat Men with Big Dorks
Grade 21
4 Bolt
Climb the pocketed wall.
-
The Bushman
Grade 16
50m Lof TtB. Ascend the crack with the botanic features leaving them as found.
-
Ties that Bind
Grade 21
7 Bolt
Climb the arete, friction will help.
-
Nose to the Limestone
Grade 19
The crack uphill and R-wards of TtB.
-
Bipolar Bop
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Start up groove wit a small roof, move L-wards up the face to finish under the bush that is halfway up the face.
-
Ernie goes Rough Trade
Grade 20
10 Bolt
Scamble up the bushy gully 30m R of BB. Move out L-wards and up the slab and crack past the double bolts.
-
Nestling
Grade 20
On the nothern outcrop betwwen the quarry and Castle Hill Village.
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 24 17 - 21 22 - 25

The area of boulders north and uphill from the main Castle Hill Boulders. The first four climbs described are on the on the east wall of the eastern (larger) gully, known as the Ace of Spades Wall. The last three climbs are found on a shark fin shaped boulder on the northern side of the hill facing Castle Hill Village. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/9

Access: There is a prominent boulder on top of the hill that is sacred to Maori. Please respect this landmark and DO NOT CLIMB ON IT!

-
Jump at the Sun
Grade 24
3 Bolt
The uphill line on the wall, that features a yellow lay-away
-
Toxic Shock
Grade 22
5 Bolt
Faces JatS on NW side of boulder. Climb through overhangs to the break then move R-wards, continue upwards and L-wards to finish onthe face.
-
Attila the Nun
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Follow seam L-wards.
-
The Headless Horseman
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Start as for AtN. Move R-wards onto up the arete
-
Animal Acts
Grade 24
3 Bolt
The Arete on the east side of the boulder.
-
Howling Elu
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Climb the north side of the boulder
-
Know Fear
Grade 25
3 Bolt
The slightly overhung south side of the boulder.
Sports - 44 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Dark%20castleDark%20castle%20sth

The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley. Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed. The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged. The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)

Access: The Dark Castle is CLOSED, mainly because it has been part of Castle Hill Station, and overlooks the house. Nothing has changed. Climbs on the West side of the Rambandit Valley are okay but all other areas of Dark Castle and the Lime Quarry scarp are currently still closed.

-
Jesus Chrysler
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Left of SAYS
-
Smile as You Sin
Grade 25
1 Bolt
The wall to the left of Rt
-
Rambandit
Grade 21
The handcrack on the north side of the boulder. Generally soloed as the crux is at the bottom
-
You Light up My Liver
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Located in the Rambandit Boulder. Bridge the gully to the pock.
-
Pete Eats Dust
Grade 27
1 Bolt

MB
Mental Block
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Found on the Rh edge of the south side of the Rambandit boulder.
-
Mean Mr Peanut
Grade 22
1 Bolt
Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.
-
Space Race
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.
-
Anna Bollocks
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.
HW
Hoodwink
Grade 19, 6, 23, 20
8 Bolt
1. Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
2. Traverse L-wards along the shelf.
3. Ascend wall and bridge onwards.
4. Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.
-
Wings of Desire
Grade 26
The bolted line L of MfG
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Made from Girders
Grade 26
5 Bolt
On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete
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Irn Bru
Grade 26
4 Bolt
The face to the R of MFG
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Headful of Steam
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.
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Sewerslide
Grade 19
3 Bolt
Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.
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Pinstripe Clone
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.
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The Lovin' Handful
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.
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Ewe 2
Grade 17
2 Bolt
Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.
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White, No Sugar
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.
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Big Chimney
Grade 16
AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.
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The Tower
Grade 22
Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.
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Atomizer
Grade 27
On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.
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Magic Kiwi
Grade 22
R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete
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Baby Bunnies
Grade 16
3 Bolt
A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE
EE
Endangered Earth
Grade 23
5 Bolt
Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.
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Wendy's Rasin Loaf
Grade 16
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.
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Cutex Cutie
Grade 16
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle
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Super Slipper
Grade 18
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.
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New Ninja
Grade 15
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.
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Manicure
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.
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Breakfast in Bed
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.
AP
Angel of Pain
Grade 31
3 Bolt
The mono/fingery overhung wall
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I.R.A
Grade 19
On the main scarp, uphill from the Big Chimney. Climb the orange Y crack, with your chioce of exit
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Mal a l'Aise
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). The thin slabbish wall to the left of a cave. First bolt used to live under a rock at base of climb and was inserted into the hole on ascent.
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Tears of a Clown
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Go up through the boulder cave to the Left of MA through srub onto the lslab above MA to belayer bolts. Climb L-wards then up the arete, and finishing on the slab.
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Lycra Lounge Lizards
Grade 18
4 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Using the same belayer bolts as ToaC. Climb straight up then move R-wards over a small roof.
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Ernie Falls in Love with Doris
Grade 20
1 Bolt
Found on a boulder opposite MA. Climb the Rh-side of the ledge.
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Love in the Void
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Climb the yellow wall 40m R of MA
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Bruce the Christian
Grade 13
Climb the chimney to the R of LiaV
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White Wince
Grade 22
The Lh- slanting diagonal crack, to the R of BtC
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The Rainbow
Grade 20
Downhil from WW. Climb the crack through the overhanging groove
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Ernie Drops his Pie
Grade 24
On the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Very technical.
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Sea of Nipples
Grade 19
2 Bolt
On the north side of the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Climb the short slab.
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Better Bodies
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Up the gully opposite SoN and R of the chimney.Climb the pocked wall.
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Total Fitness
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Climb the paralell side feature.
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Spitting Buttock
Grade 16
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. An esoteric chimney.
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Spoondectomy
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Start up the chimney then head L-wards past the bolt and upm the face.
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Easy Listening
Grade 23
On the NW side of the valley opposite WW. Climb the steep fist crack.
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Legal Aid
Grade 23
The route is in a gully, close to and to the L of EL. Climb the undercling/fist-crack.
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Tranquility of Solitude
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Faces the reserve, L of EL, Ascend the easy slab.
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Banana Chimney
Grade 10
Climb the yellow chmney that is formed by a blade of rock.
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Dark Matter
Grade 23
3 Bolt
At the NW end of the Dark Castle. Climb the grey corner.
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Edge of Darkness
Grade 22
Cliomb the arete to L of DM
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Gulf Crisis
Grade 24
5 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The east facing wall (towards the road)
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Razzamatazz
Grade 25
6 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The groove on the north side.
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Energy Crisis
Grade 23
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. Rh-side of the north face, climb the crack then move R-wards around the arete, finishing up RA.
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Radial Action
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Climb the curve and go letf to the arete at the top.
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Torso
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Start at scoop and go L-wards or jump start, then upwards and R-wards.
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Sssnap!
Grade 17
Just R of the tower. Layback up the big rock waffer.
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Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 3 minutes

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Boulder - 7 routes - avg. grade V2 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 16
023 0

Rakaia Gorge has many options for the Boulderer. Now features Bolts and top rope anchors for dry tooling and sport climbing.

Access: Access via any Rakaia Gorge carpark.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Gggg

Routes from left to right. This area changes a lot. Every flood. V0,V3,V2,V1,V1,V2,V3,V3,V2

Access: Via Rakaia Gorge

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Unnamed
Grade V1
3m
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The Project
Grade V3
3m
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Matts one
Grade V2
4m Sit start with low hands in crack.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 3 minutes

6666

6 meter steep face. Left to right. V4,V2,V2

Access: Via blue bridge

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Trev's variation
Grade V4
6m Climb on the left hand side of the arête until half height then move to right side of it.
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Darias Arête
Grade V2
6m Stay on right hand side of Arête.
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Slip up
Grade 0
1 Bolt
10m High route do not fall, follow loose rock to moss patch and on to better rock. Has top rope anchor.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 1 minute

Uuuu

Climb over the water

Access: Blue bridge

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Unnamed
Grade V0
3m

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 2

Img 0877

DWS

Access: Carpark.

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Traverse
Grade -
Starting on north side of the river downstream of the bridge traverse as far upstream as you can. You might get wet. Probably climbed before by locals but this pic was in 2007