Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 33 routes total Time 10min 350 m

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Trad - 32 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Horrible

Mt Horrible is a plug of quality basalt very close to Timaru. If you enjoy trad climbing on good pro & sound rock then this is the place for you. The routes are quite short but have an abundance of well-rounded holds and cracks that vary from finger width to semi offwidth.   There are many other unrecorded routes that are shorter, blocky lines on both sides of the main wall. Some of these can be treated as boulder problems.

 

Climbing Notes.

There is no need to contact the landowner before climbing. Just observe the usual courtesies. Expect clean, solid rock with sound gear possibilities. Make sure you take a few quickdraws; a standard rack (a couple of large cams are useful); long slings and a single rope.

The top of the crag is totally flat and user-friendly and the anchors are bomber. Since you can wander around easily between anchors, it is most efficient to set up one rope for descents. 

The first routes are on the far left of the main wall before it gets vegetated or blocky:

Access: There is no need to contact the landowner before climbing. Please the usual courtesies. From Timaru: Just north of the Timaru city centre is an intersection with Wai-iti Rd. Turn right here and drive 4km to Gleniti. Veer left into Claremont Rd and follow this for 7km past Claremont School to Whalebone Corner (intersection with Fairview Rd). Turn left on to Fairview Rd and take the next right, which is Mt Horrible Rd. After 5km, there is a farm gate on the left , as the road flattens out. Park here but please do not obscure the gate access. From Dunedin: Turn off just before the Pareora bridge into Pareora River Rd. After 12km, turn right in to Holme Station Bridge Rd. Turn left in to Fairview Rd and travel for 3km before turning left in to Mt Horrible Road (as above). Cross through the gate and walk along the hedge on your left. Go through another gate. Head slightly right and southwards for the next 500m to the edge of the scarp and over the swampy pond to the big pine trees on the other side of the paddock. Either use the single pine as an abseil anchor or scramble down one of the gullies to the crag.

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Politics of Utopia
Grade 0
The arete to the LHS of the cave
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Banana Man on Tour
Grade 14
2nd crack L of FF cave
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Future Fantasy
Grade 20
Roof of the Lh access cave. Start R and work your way L into the crack. Entertaining!
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Whose Line??
Grade 20
50 R of FF, "20" scratched at the base. A thin and intermiittent crack.
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Hip Replacement
Grade 14
10m 10m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti is a shallow gully with a rising lightening crack and a blocky top half.
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Hippopotamus
Grade 16
10m 8m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti climb a left-facing corner crack which turns right-facing at a second small overhang.
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Compost Bin
Grade 16
A steep crack to the L of the tree.
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Anthropology
Grade 18
Start up the wall and gain a wide crack, then climb through blocks exiting on another wide crack.
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Dipper Mouth
Grade 17
Bidge and jam your way above the graffiti.
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Windy Wanderer
Grade 15
Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the easy crack at the LHS of the ledge.
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Competition
Grade 17
Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the roof and crack from the centre of the ledge.
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Art for Art's Sake
Grade 18
Start behind the broadleaf tree. Easy up to a small ledge, then wide bridging and finger locks enable a move left (crux) to finish. Vegetated at the top – take care to avoid the bush lawyer.
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C.C. Special
Grade 16
Start by the bush lawyer, climb your way to and up the good crack in the upper wall.
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Potato Head
Grade 17
12m Start as for Jelly Roll up the hand-crack, but at the break step left to the recessed corner-crack. Climb straight up, with a bit of a stretch through the capping overhang.
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Physical Graffiti
Grade 17
The same start as JR, Continue straight up when you reach the block half way up.
JR
Jelly Roll
Grade 17
12m The original slabby start seems to have been abandoned in favour of the start of Turn To Gold, and is very dirty. For now climb the small corner below the left edge of the large roof, and step across left to the small overhang. Jam the hand-crack to a rest, and then more easily up the corner-crack on the right.
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Turn to Gold
Grade 24
12m climb up face and LH edge linking onto the arete to LLS of H
H
Hyperformance
Grade 23
12m Up the thin finger-crack in the seep wall, then onto flared crack.
PC
Pareora Corner
Grade 18
13m The continous corner.
TB
The Bird
Grade 19
13m Up finger-crack tendin R to small ledge, then L-wards to the scoop exiting up the wide crack
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The Arete
Grade 22
14m Boulder up the arete, tending L into the small crack, then back onto the arete to finnish
SJJ
Slim Jim’s Jam
Grade 16
14m Up the corner to the off-width crack, then move R onto easier territory.
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Slim Jim's Arete
Grade 17
The arete ot the RHS of SSJ, rejioning after 4m. No pro!
GiH
Groove in High
Grade 19
14m The arete to the LHS of TC. Start up the finger-crackthen trough the roof with the crack.
TC
Twin Cracks
Grade 17
14m Carry out the trash start onto the block, (twin jam-cracks) then up through easier terrian.
CB
China Boy
Grade 14
Starts behind the tree. Bridge onto ledge then climb the RH facing corner.
BM
Blue Monday
Grade 18
13m Start L of Arch Dig behind a tree to gain the upward-flaring offwidth; then layback on to the arête and up to a small ledge. Step R to finish in the L crack.
AD
Arch Dig
Grade 17
12m Up through blocks to the pea-pod, then finnish up the RH crack.
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Treacherous Cretins
Grade 20
The arete and face between AD and W. No Pro!
W
Wildman
Grade 19
12m Ascend through arch, then up hand-crack to ledge, exiting R to the arete with a wide crack.
YC
Young Coronary
Grade 16
11m Starts with a nice jam crack which abandons you after a couple of metres (crux). Then it eases into a nice corner-crack. to finish.
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Otago Youth
Grade 18
Boulder problem up face 2m R of Young Coronary. You have two choices: straight up with no gear for 4-5 metres, or step left a metre or so, place good gear and grunt through over the block. Nice moves in the upper crack follow.
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Pigs in Space
Grade 20
50m R of YC. Follow a shallow groove onto a ledge, then use the off-width to gain the above hand-crack to exit.