Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 13 routes total 3151 m

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Alpine - 13 routes - avg. grade 4 0 - 2.75 3+

Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Frind Route
Grade 3.25
From the Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height to reach the Donne Glacier. From here ascend northwards across the glacier under Sharks Teeth to reach Brunner Col. Cross the Col and drop onto the west side. Exposed and avalanche prone slopes under Brunner then give access to the Douglas Névé. From here ascend either the upper South Ridge or cross the névé to the West Ridge.
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South Ridge
Grade 4
From Brunner Col traverse Mt Brunner onto the ridge. Ascend a prominent step and head on up a blocky rock ridge to a snow peak. Descend to a small col, then climb a steep rock buttress (traversable on the west), follow a snow arête and up a final step to the South Summit.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Alpine - 6 routes - avg. grade 4 0 - 2.75 3+
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This can be climbed in number of ways: either by the Direct Route or For Whom the Bell Tolls, from the Mueller Glacier, or via Sefton Bivvy and across the slopes under the Footstool Ridge, which gives access to the lower and upper Shelf Glacier.

Attribution: Alex Palman

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Direct Route
Grade 4.25
Scale scree and bluffs above the Mueller Glacier, to reach the lower Shelf Glacier, beneath and just north of the prominent cliffs of the upper Shelf Glacier. Ascend the lower Shelf Glacier onto a snow face below and to the right of the icecliffs. Use the snow face to reach an arête on the right hand edge of the upper Shelf. At this point the two access routes from Sefton Bivvy join.
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For Whom The Bell Tolls
Grade 5
2000m
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The Ramp
Grade 4.25
On the upper face. Drop onto the upper Shelf and head out on the prominent ramp angling onto the upper South Ridge.
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Goldsmith Route
Grade 0
On the upper face. Up a short couloir onto snowslopes leading onto the South Summit.
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Direct
Grade 4
On the upper face. Straight up the couloir dropping beneath the two summits. A number of leaders have experienced falls here!
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Triple Direct
Grade 5

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East Ridge
Grade 4
From Sefton Bivvy climb up and along under the Footstool Ridge. Crevasses may give trouble here. Then either climb directly or up the arête to Tuckett Col. From the Col ascend three prominent steps in the ridge to the summit. The rock is appallingly loose in the lower sections, but improves towards the top. Used on the first ascent of Sefton. In 1924 Frank Milne and Harold Porter ascended and descended the ridge in four hours. Now rarely climbed because of the poor rock.
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North Ridge
Grade 3.25, 4
1. Starting 15 minutes up the Copland Track from Douglas Rock Hut, this magnificent 2000m climb leads directly to the summit. Climb slabs on northern side of the Jasper Glacier Stream. The ridge then rises up a number of rock buttresses before flattening out and merging into a glacial bulge. Then ascend a vague snow rib to reach a shelf just below the summit. Above this either climb direct to the summit, or traverse south onto the West Ridge.
2. 2200m Starting 15 minutes up the Copland Track from Douglas Rock Hut, this magnificent 2000m climb leads directly to the summit. Climb slabs on northern side of the Jasper Glacier Stream. The ridge then rises up a number of rock buttresses before flattening out and merging into a glacial bulge. Then ascend a vague snow rib to reach a shelf just below the summit. Above this either climb direct to the summit, or traverse south onto the West Ridge.
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Scott Creek/West Ridge
Grade 2.25
The West Ridge of Mt Sefton from the Douglas Névé is a relatively straight forward 500m climb and is commonly used as a descent route. To reach the névé from the Copland Valley, the best route lies up Scott Creek. Surmount the waterfall on the western side (true L) using vegetated ledges and follow the creek, up and up, trending left. Beyond the bushline a rounded spur on the left can be gained (there are cairn-marked bivvy rocks and a stream in a small vegetated valley just north of the rounded spur) which ascends to a steeper craggy section followed by snowbasins. These in turn lead onto the ridge separating the Scott and Tekano Glaciers. Cross the Tekano Névé (watch for wet snow!) and ascend to Welcome Pass (2390m). From here follow the Sierra Range to where the West Ridge begins. Alternatively, from Welcome Pass use the Douglas Névé to access the West Ridge where it steepens. Beware of mist. Bivvying on Welcome Pass makes the summit day easier.

Showing all routes 1 route total

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The North Face of Sefton overlooks the Copland Valley and is bounded by the East Ridge on the left and the classic North Ridge on the right.

Access: The access used on the F.A of this face was via Sefton Bivy and Tuckett Col.

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Kiss of the Spiderwoman.
Grade 4.25
Access to this face is probably best from the east, crossing Tuckett Col (see East Ridge Route ). Ascend a snow ramp right towards the centre of the face, then straight up on left towards the East Ridge and break out onto a shelf some 180 metres from the summit.
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Bluewater Route to Welcome Pass
Grade 0