Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 12 routes total

Alpine - 12 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

The D'Urville is the longest, most remote, and most heavily forested of the valleys draining into lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa.

Access: Access is best by boat up Lake Rotoroa (see Sabine Valley). The D'Urville can also be reached over Mole or Tiraumea saddles but the track in Bull Creek is no longer maintained, and the footbridge has been removed. Few climbs are known on the D’Urville side of the Mahanga and Ella ranges. Ella Hut (16 bunks, standard) is now renamed George Lyon Hut in honour of the long serving Chief Ranger who built many of the original two-roomed huts in the park.

Showing all routes 8 routes total

Alpine - 8 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

The Mahanga Range rises from the Rotoroa lake shore and separates the D’Urville and Sabine Valleys.

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Mahanga Range Traverse
Grade 0
South of Mt Misery the range consists initially of undulating tops and basins scattered with tarns. Ultimately it becomes craggy and lifts in a complicated series of broken ridges to Mt Windward.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1966 m

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Mahanga Ra

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Sabine Route
Grade 0
Just north of Sabine Forks an old avalanche chute leads to steep tussock, scree and broken crags.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1601 m

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Mahanga Ra

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Standard Route
Grade 0
From the head of Lake Rotoroa a track climbs a steepening face on to a spur. At the bushline climb onto the Mahanga Range and follow it up to Mt Misery. The hut below (4 bunks, basic) can be difficult to locate in fog.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2210 m

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Mahanga Range

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Lake Constance Route
Grade 0
From the moraine wall damming Lake Constance a distinctive shelf angles from scree to the crest of the range south of the peak. A long, interesting climb follows the south ridge to the summit.

North of Mt Mahanga

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West Sabine Route
Grade 0
Above the tussock shelf of East Ridge route of Mt Mahanga, a rocky shelf gives various routes to the main range between the peaks.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2196 m

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Southern end of the Mahanga Ra, possibly in the Spenser Mts.

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North Face
Grade 0
Above Lake Constance follow the West Sabine to a basin and a long scree fan. Climb carpetgrass and moderate rock beside a small gorge and traverse to a tussock shelf (or follow the Sabine true left, and to the right of bluffs, onto the shelf). Head south-west towards a col, and then the north ridge (very loose) to the summit pyramid.
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East Ridge
Grade 0
From Waiau Pass the ridge is broad and easy, later narrowing. When an impassable notch is reached, descend south to a shelf and regain the ridge higher up. The remainder of the ridge is pinnacled.
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South East Face
Grade 0
From near the bottom of the Waiau Pass route and the Waiau River, a tussock spur leads to a scree basin south-east of Mahanga. The East Ridge is gained from a snow face.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2263 m

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Ella has three summits; a rope may be needed for the middle and south summits. The middle one is a split pinnacle climbed via a chimney. The southern, highest summit is climbed by a ledge on its eastern side, which can be reached from the snowfield via a col south of the peak.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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D'Urville Route
Grade 0
A major stream above George Lyon Hut falls from a large basin. Waterfalls are by-passed on the true right bank. Scree leads to a saddle in the ridge between Ella and point 1951, overlooking a small glacial remnant. From the saddle head south-west then across a permanent snowfield and up to the northern summit.
A
North Ridge and Peak 2189m
Grade 0
Long routes lead over Crag and up to Peak 2189 (used on the first ascent of Ella), or from the tops south of Peak Creek, but it is easier to reach Pk 2189 from the head of McKellar Stream. Traverse the Ella Range from here.
C
Ella Traverse
Grade 0
Angle north-east up a prominent gully on the McKellar Stream face to reach the North Ridge, and follow it to the north summit and trig. The middle peak is a split pinnacle, climbed via a chimney. The south summit is climbed via a ledge on the D’Urville side. A rope should be used for the traverse. Descend by any suitable gully.
C
West Face
Grade 0
A marked track up McKellar Stream gives access to the West Face. From the end of the track angle south-east up scree on the face to a saddle (1966m) below the south ridge. Climb up to the south (high) peak. Turn its steep southern face on the D'Urville side. Direct routes on the face are possible in winter.