Sports - 28 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Ski - 2 routes - avg. grade 3 2+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Alpine - 1 route - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75

tba

Showing all routes 30 routes total Time 20 1600 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 28 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21

Ohau Lodge is 30 minutes drive from Twizel, the climbing area is a further 10-15 minutes up the snow field access road. It is the very obvious large cliffy looking valley a few hundred metres back down the road from the snow field. There is space to park a few vehicles on the edge of the road at the valley entrance. 15-20 minutes casual walk following a cairned route gets you to a large dice shaped boulder. This is a sub-alpine area. The land is administered by the Department of Conservation and is zoned recreational. The Department has given permission for the area to be developed for rock climbing, however the environmental impact is to be minimal. There are currently no toilets at the site. The climbing area consists of a number of separate crags and short walls. In the winter the area is snow covered although climbing is still possible (some fun mixed routes exist). The rock is compact sandstone (highly oxidised greywacke) and generally very solid. The bulk of the cleaning required has been removal of loose blocks and rocks from ledges, cracks, and hollows. Due to winter freeze/thaw actions there is no guarantee that once cleaned routes are forever clean. The style of climbing should be approached as a blend of crag and alpine. Generally the routes put up are a mix of in situ and traditional. It is advisable to carry a good rack of cams (flexes are a must), and nuts including RPs. The vast majority of routes have chain anchors. Bolts are 10mm diameter stainless steel with hangers. Chain anchors are 12mm diameter galvanised linked with standard steel chain and shackles. Climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliffs. All climbs at these cliffs are graded Technical. History It seems likely the first people to climb here were Russell Braddock and Guy Cotter in 1987. Russell recalls some semi-alpine adventure whilst taking time out from stacking stone on the new Ohau ski area cafe. There doesn’t appear to have been any further activity until 1996 when Dave Crow and Stu Pratt appeared on the scene.

Access: You must stop at Lake Ohau Lodge and ask permission for access. A nominal $5 per vehicle road toll may be charged and further key security required. You are issued with a key to open the gate to the access road. Access is not always given, there may be occasions when the road is closed to the public. It is advisable to telephone in advance. Mike and Louise Neilson are the owner operators, they have been excellent hosts over the years, please respect this. Ph/fax (03) 4389 885.

Showing all routes 8 routes total

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Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21

The first wall on the left looking up the valley from the dice boulder

Attribution: added location details

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DNA
Grade 14
Climbs a direct corner, and shares anchor with Allure.
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Allure
Grade 17
Three bolts, take number 2-3 Camalot. Chain anchor at top.
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Japanese Garden
Grade 17
Take a number 1 Camalot. Two bolts.
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Golden Shower
Grade 20
Climb up direct from Japanese Garden anchors . Three bolts. Take an average rack, including RPs.
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The Cure
Grade 19
7 Bolt
Step right from Japanese Garden anchors, and climb slightly rightward up vertical wall and through deceptively juggy roofs.
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Semi Alpine Adventure
Grade 14
The first climb on these cliffs. A fun route up a corner.
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Roaring Dragon
Grade 16, 17
1. TBA
2. TBA
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Unnamed
Grade 0
From the top of Allure climb up directly through bulges to belay left of Golden Shower anchors. Bouldery crux, no bolts grade 20. Bolt anchor at top.
Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

TBA

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Ground Up
Grade 18
Two or three metres to the left of Barking Mad, finishes at Barking Mad belay.
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Barking Mad
Grade 18, 15
1. First pitch bolted (chain belay).
2. The second pitch follows corner belay from a piton.
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Free Spirit
Grade 21
A crack climb at grade 21.
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Finger Food
Grade 18
Grade18 crack climb
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Family Affair
Grade 17
Grade 17. Six bolts.
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Cat Scratch
Grade 22
Grade 22. Three bolts.
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Unnamed
Grade 18
A route exists either side of Cat Scratch, both about grade 18.
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Jammin
Grade 14
Nice short hand crack, no fixed anchor at top, take extra cams.

TBA

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Shady Lady
Grade 21

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Unknown
Grade 23

TBA

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Gabbatha (Stone Pavement)
Grade 22
Grade 22, with bolts.
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Winter Scramble
Grade 14

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Unnamed
Grade 0
Apparently something has been done on here but it looks chossy.

Showing all routes 7 routes total

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Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

TBA

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Sweet Sixteen
Grade 16

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Ernies Tail Pipe
Grade 18

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Southern Raider
Grade 22
A short way up a scree gully, climb the 25m vertical wall beside the black water streak, eight bolts. Grade 22.
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Unnamed
Grade 18
Right of Southern Raider crack system, about grade18.
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Unnamed
Grade 17
Left of Southern Raider, about grade 17.
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Unnamed
Grade 18
Grade 18. Care required.
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Clean Slate
Grade 22
Five bolts. Grade 22.

There are bolts on the top of The Dice to top rope the front face. Other routes exist in obscure places, and many scrambling routes up to 14 have been done up aretes and other features.

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The Backdoor
Grade 20
Grade 19/20 and the only route with chain hangers.
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East Face of The Dice
Grade 14

Showing all routes 1 route total 1854 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

TBA

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From Hideaway Biv in the Ahuriri
Grade .75

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DUMB-BELL LAKE Ski Touring.
Grade 3
Maps G38, H38 Dumb-Bell Lake is on the Ohau Range and may be accessed from the Ohau Skifield. Discuss backcountry conditions with the Ohau Skifield ski patrol before setting off. After the skifield has shut at the end of the season, there may still be great skiing up there. Contact Lake Ohau Lodge for permission to go up the skifield road, and a key to unlock the gate. Permission for access is not always given, so phone in advance. A road toll of $5 per car, and additional security may be required for the key. From the top of the lifts at Ohau, climb steeply for about 15 minutes in boots to the top ridgeline, where there are excellent views down into the Maitland valley. Skin along the ridgeline to the south, just less than 2km, to Mount Sutton (2007m). To reach Dumb-Bell Lake, either pick a steep line from near the summit, or swing around the peak’s western shoulder (point 1942) to find easier slopes. After skiing in the basin that contains the lake, one may return to Ohau skifield via the way of access. Alternatively, there is a hut to stay in down in the Maitland valley. Maitland Hut is a four bunk DoC hut in the bush at 960m elevation (G38: 498605). Snowy Gorge Creek Hut (DoC, 5 bunks) may also be accessed via Dumb-Bell Lake, and used as a base for the region (G38: 465531).
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OHAU RANGE Ski Touring.
Grade 3
Maps G38, H38, H39 There is a DoC walking track that starts from the Lake Ohau Lodge, or alternatively from the Glen Mary ski club lodge, and follows marker poles to reach Freehold Creek, where a good track with bridges over side-creeks, climbs through the bush to the bushline at 1100m. There is great camping in the high basins in the northern headwaters, near spot elevation 1479 on the topomap, accessed via steep slopes. Easier slopes to the SW lead up to a saddle with the Ahuriri River East Branch. This can be used to access the Ohau Range to the south, and Ohau Peak (1916m). There is great skiing into the basins on the eastern side of this ridge. This trip can also be linked up with Dumb-Bell Lake. From the saddle with the Ahuriri River East Branch, climb past the tarn marked “1514” and to a saddle at location 501543. Ski down to the north through a basin, and climb to another saddle between the two peaks marked 1922 and 1929, from which it is possible to ski down to Dumb-Bell Lake.