Approached via the long, very steep, dangerous, scree shoot just downstream of the East Edwards River confluence. This shoot is known locally as the Gunbarrel Scree. A quick observation of the riverbed should leave you in no doubt as to why! Climb the scree upwards and southwards into a narrow gut joining the saddle between the two peaks. Both summits can be climbed on rotten rock from this point. Wear a helmet, and keep looking up! A dangerous route.