Fetched from ClimbNZ on Nov 17th, 2017

Showing all routes 52 routes total Time 20 min 150 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 47 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
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A crag with a ton of atmosphere which makes up the side of a 225m cleft.

Climbing Notes

Many routes are defended by an initial 4–8m band of choss which is well protected by bolts and chains. Once the choss has been negotiated you will be rewarded by wonderful climbing on shallow basalt organ pipe extrusions offering a multitude of intricate movement options in sustained sequences. The protection is excellent on nearly all of the routes, unless described in the guide. Take a good trad rack – offset wires and small cams are very handy. Having the skill and endurance to use them is also helpful. Take care when rapping off! The raps are at the danger length and the ground slopes away below.

History

With an observation platform at the lip of the amphitheatre, Lovers Leap was hardly a secret. Murray Judge looked at it in the early 1970s, but development had to wait for the arrival of the power drill. Al Ritchie first put up routes here in 1998. They were impressive ground up efforts, which included leading through the horror show bands of choss. He raved about the potential, but disappeared into the Wanaka scene, never to be heard of again. In December 2000, Steve Carr and Dave Brash, abseiled in to check it out. They discovered beautiful organ pipes defended from above and below by bands of terrible rock. Amazingly they had the crag pretty much to themselves for a couple of years. Keith Riley returned to Dunedin and could not believe the “best single pitch crag in the country” had miraculously appeared in his absence. Keith contributed a slew of first ascents, and the development of easier short routes on the left side as well as more sport routes. The Leap has been exposed to the masses via the Southern Faces DVD, a cover photo on the Climber, and inclusion in that issue’s National Basalt Hit-list; this has coincided with increased popularity.

Access: Follow Highcliff Rd out of Dunedin, past Larnachs Castle, then 15km from Dunedin turn right into Sandymont Rd which is followed to the carpark at its end. Follow a signposted track through macrocarpas, past a woolshed, towards the Lovers Leap viewing platform. About 100m before the platform, turn left down a gully, going steeply downhill and around the right-hand side of the crag, then double back along the base of the crag.

Attribution: Dave Brash

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 25min

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Trad - 11 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
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The wall under the platform. Furtherest away from the approach.

Access: Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge.

1
Back to the Wall
Grade 22
20m Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge. Start up crack (crux natural pro) which splits the broad buttress directly beneath the observation platform, then only slightly easier climbing past the vegetated ledge following the line of 5 bolts.
2
Gumboots
Grade 20
14m Packed with action from start to finish. Exit R to DBB
3
Artificial Weddings
Grade 27
13m Thin climbing in the shallow groove with ridiculous rp pro before high bolt.
4
Extreme Measures
Grade 23
4 Bolt
12m Great short sport climb. 4B on face 2m R or AW
5
Excruciate Crack
Grade 20
40m R of EM is a nose about 6m above the ground. Start 5m L of the nose. Start marked by bolt at 2m (rarely dry)
6
Water World
Grade 19
Start under nose, to ring bolt at 10m. Extension grade 23 is rarely dry enough to climb.
7
Dave Brash's Climb
Grade 18

8
Steve Carr's Climb
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Nice face climbing that makes you think.
9
Jam & Buscuits
Grade 14
13m Learn how to jam and chimney. Twin facing cracks and corners with the black inset wall.
10
The Empire Strikes Back
Grade 22
13m Grunty thin crack & bulge 1m R of J&B
11
Return of the Jedi
Grade 19
13m Corner Crack
12
Dave Brash's Climb
Grade 21
18m A staunch wee corner that will get you thinking - and skating! You're now warmed up for the face above. Place a big wire or med cam and shoot straight up the crack above or alternatively inch out right and up before heading back left to the belay.
13
Strawberry Jam
Grade 16
Dodgy rock at top.
14
Tears from Heaven
Grade 22
12 Bolt
25m Scramble up onto the top of two pillars and step across onto the wall. Nice juggy climbing until a staunch move rightwards to the arête then up. Cross over the cleft then up onto a ledge beneath a hanging corner. Bridge the corner before striking out leftwards up a black flake to an atmospheric belay on the lower edge of the Cyclop's Eye.

Showing all routes 18 routes total

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Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 28 26+
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A cluster of mostly easier short crack corners with excellent pro, often split by ledges but all worth doing as an introduction to the Leap, and warm ups for the for the harder RHS climbs. The LH routes also dispense with the annoying band of choss at the start.

0
Access Route
Grade 16
18m Climb the Lh facing corner of the easy looking gully, then diagonally R up ramps and short corners to JtI & CTA belays.
1
Cardboard Choas
Grade 23
18m Thin crack takes small wires & cams to #0.5.
2
Just the Tick-it
Grade 22
18m Desperately layback while placing wires & CDs to 0.5 You've been warned!
3
Canada Dreaming
Grade 25
25m The Steep crack just just L of CTA is independent for about 7m, but packs in a huge punch. Both muscular & subtle, on adequate pro.
4
Crying Time Again
Grade 18
25m A good first climb at the Leap with bomber pro and sensational climbing up the twin cracks between the pillars. Start by scrambling up the blocky ledges past the chain link belay bolt down and right of Just the Tick-et. Some tricky bridging to get off the ledge, then superb jams and bridging lead up to an exciting move leftwards at the top into the left crack. Continue easily up the short corner on the left to the same belay bolts as Triple Treat.
5
Triple Treat
Grade 19
30m One of Al's more sane on-sight pioneering efforts here. Feels like 3 short routes one after the other. From the rock prow belay below Side Effect, clip the bolt and climb easily up to the ledge at 5m, then 3 linked corners moving L at each ledge to finish at the belay chain above Crying Time Again. Another good introduction to the area with good protection and lots of bridging.
6
Side Effect
Grade 22
25m Great consumer climb, the routes name gives some beta. Start up the 1st of Triple Treat's 3 corners, then move right to all bolt pro for the business end of the climb. Up the deceptively steep corner above, before finessing through the small roof and finishing directly up the exposed arete above. You'll find out why you were melting off those jugs when you rap back down. Triple bolt belay.
7
Don't Cry For Me Argentina
Grade 25
25m A great crux up high. Start as for TT & SE, moving R past bolt & follow likely cracks (twin ropes useful) to finish up R facing corner to SE's DBB. For a mega 50m pitch carry on up The Cure if you dare.
8
Slapstick
Grade 21
20m 2 bolts protect access R to steep crack splitting buttress R of DCFMA. The continuation is a RH facing corner which links The Cure. Climbed by JC at grade 25 in 2006
9
Al's Jam Crack
Grade 19
24m Perfect hand jamming, would get more stars if longer. once on the ledge there are furthur options.
10
Left Side Spike
Grade 20
Bridging up the L facing corner crack cumulates in a tricky crux move to the tantilising jug. Take CDs up to #1.5. Finish at DBB just above and to the R of the spike.
11
The Cure
Grade 20
20m This mind excursion is climbed as a 2nd pitch to TA, but can be accessed by any route between Se & TA. Cruxy bolt protected climbing on breccia knobs above a rubble ledge (don't fall off clipping) before bridging upthe easier groove ( natural pro, not the best rock) and stepping out to atmospheric DBB under roof.
12
The Affliction
Grade 18
20m The R side of the spike. Interesting climbing.
13
Walk of Shame
Grade 19
11m Short but nice L facing corner
14
Stereo Cameo
Grade 19
12m From the fixed rope ledge, move up & R onto ledge. Great little test-piece crux follows cruisy bridging up twin facing corner cracks above
15
Brave Dash
Grade 20
12m From DBB around the corner from SC, tricky to climb & place pro for a few metres, then respite before the easier but run-out chimney. Finish as for SC
-
Man of Leisure
Grade 28
Powerful and tenuous climbing up to and through a bulge (all on bolts). There is a lower off ring above the bulge if you are only interested in sport climbing - however the original route continues up a well protected finger crack at grade 25. Take a selection of wires and small to med cams.
16
Maximun Pseudo Likelihood
Grade 28
10 Bolt
20m The late Bill Bradshaw's classic addition to the Dunedin climbing scene. Spectacular! Bullet hard orangey rock, ultra techinical, quite powerful & sustained climbing with only a few places to sneak a quick shake.

Showing all routes 20 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 23 22 - 25
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An orange wall packed with steep columns.

1
Seawitch
Grade 22, 16
1. 22m The deep, steep corner directly above the lowest point of the Sandy clay ‘V” shaped band is accessed by a fixed chain (route length is from top of this chain). Great bolt protected climbing up the deep corner with the crux at the top before moving R to ledge, then stepping L for a 6m natural pro finished section. Take some medium-large wires and cams #1.5 – 2.5.
2. 12m Bridge the steep corner to DBB.
0
Orange Peel
Grade 27
27m Fairly sustianed with one difficult crux that you keep peeling off from. Step L after ascending Seawitch's fixed chain, follow bolts with a few medium wire placements to finish on Sw ledge.
2
Demilitarised Zone
Grade 27
10 Bolt Trad
25m Fixed chain between SW and BoS leads to a line of 9 bolts. Sustained climbing to a hidden hold at mid-height allows you to cross the border onto the upper wall where the nature of the rock changes. Although the struggle eases somewhat, only stamina will take you to the chains.
3
Balls of String
Grade 25
13 Bolt Trad
35m Follow the closely spaced bolts on the beautiful mottled orange wall L of WtF. Stepping out R to the WtF ledge gives you a quality sport route, but for full experience, step L off the ledge, clip one last bolt and swing around the corner to the natural pro crack (medium CDs) then a wild heel hook onto the semi detached pillar at the top. This finish is a recommended mind blowing 2nd pitch at about grade 19 to any route that finishes on the WtF ledge. Alternatively, bypass the ledge and continue straight up the line in one long push - the rest on WtF ledge has been eliminated.
4
Welcome to Failure
Grade 24
30m It has all the hallmarks of a signature Lovers Leap classic.The open groove is incredibly sustained, technical and tenuous with the crux at the top, on natural pro. Take a few smallish offset wires and cams to #1.
5
Pink Cadillac
Grade 22
22m The rock lower down is not quite of the quality of the surrounding routes, but the large amount of traffic has cleaned up this climb. Good pro, (bolts then a series of medium offset wire placements) and continuously great climbing cumulate in a go for it crux moves to awkwardly positioned jug, again near the top of course, when your strength has been sapped. Choices of finishes- L onto WtF ledge is best, then a 2nd pitch up BoS to finish for a classic combo.
-
JCs Route
Grade 23
Continue above the Pink Cadillac ledge climbing a nice corner crack on natural pro (take mostly med cams). Clip two bolts before swinging left to a belay hidden on a sloping ledge.
6
It Always Ends in Tears
Grade 22
26m -and that is just getting to the base of the climb! 3 bolts protect you through the chossy cauliflower heads and a traverse L (best back clean as you go), then all natural pro to the top in the mesmeric serpentine crack which appears hand size, but seldom offers more than fingerlocks. Take a comprehensive rack of wires & cams to #2.5, doubling up around #0.5.
7
Trojan Horse
Grade 22
26m Start as for GG, moving L after 3rd bolt and step around L into tricky corner after reachy bolt clip. Cruxy moves up the thin corner to ledge and final corner on natural pro. Finish at IAEiT DBB. Double ropes are handy. Take large selection of wires & cams to #2.5
8
Greek Gift
Grade 21
24m Cave Dona dona ferentes. Hard climb. Steep bouldery start gives you a good pump-out and lots of confidence for the real start of the climb. From the ledge, it gets straight into hard bridging for 7 or 8m before crossing R onto another ledge. Simon says that “if you are 19-20 climber and accidently stumble onto this climb then you are f***ed! But if you are a confident 21 climber then you will love this climb. You have a good chance of falling and breaking your legs on the ledge while trying to place small wires”
-
Ovation
Grade 26
25m Mike's addition to the brace of Main Cliff classics is a fitting memorial to Bill Bradshaw. The line of 8-9 bolts follows a shallow groove between GG and PU
9
Parallel Universe
Grade 25
10 Bolt Trad
30m Searing stemming and finger-locks up the L facing groove to a no hands rest in a niche. Move out and up hanging corner to a ledge, then up a short wall above.
10
Bird Dropping
Grade 23
8 Bolt
20m Sidle under the VW goove and up the steep face to the left on amazing rock. Further bolts have been added since the pillar fell out of the wall. Finish at the new VW belay or up the top section of PU or continue up LaWR.
11
VW-Long and Winding Road
Grade 23, 20
1. 20m Sadly the 8m high pillar self ejected in Dec 2005, moving the route up a few grades from 20 to 23. Start up Unrequited’s fixed chain, move L into the bolted V corner (crux), now known as VW, and up to a bolted belay.
2. 20m Clip the bolt and move left around a corner and up nice cracks to an awkward pedestal. Surmount the pedestal, up the corner and through the L side of the W roof. Don't worry about the roof; if you can't hand-jam the gear is good for dogging. Take a big rack! This pitch can be accessed by abseil from a ring bolt anchor on the ridgeline above on the access track. A great adventure.
12
Wicked Corner
Grade 24
17m This tough little corner demands more than just bridging. Climb LaWR until you can step R to a large ledge ( recommend belaying from here to prevent long falls due to rope stretch) at the base of the deep corner which Dave Brash climbed to the DBB under the RH side of the W roof in 2001 (grade 21). Good pro with wires and # CD’s 0-3. The pumpy continuation out R through the roof and up the headwall (3B) to finish at chains a couple of metre right of LaWR DBB, finally fell to Jonathon Clearwater in 2006.
13
Unrequited
Grade 25, 22
1. 25m Originally climbed in 2001 as one monster pitch at grade 24, it has become harder and more sustained now that the bear-hug pillar has fallen off. Now it is split into 2 pitches, 1st of which is a gob-smacking endurance counter-pressure test-piece. Starts immediately above the LH group of 3 fixed chains, levitate up the shallow groove past 5B, then natural pro to the DBB.
2. 16m Climb the R facing corner 1B to the peapod with magic knee-bars, and then finish up the off-width crack. This pitch is an essential part of every climber’s education. Take CD’s #1-3.5
14
Via Magma
Grade 22, 23
1. 25m Start at the central fixed chain. Superb sustained climbing, in a steep open groove. Move L at the top to finish this section on the arête and climb a few metres up to the DBB.
2. 15m A hard move gets you into a hand-crack in the left-facing corner (separated from Unrequited's corner by a white lichenous wall). Take a few wires and CD's #1.5-3.0.
15
Killer Wail
Grade 23
26m The curving V corner is stunning all the way, with a killer finish up the arête to the rap chains under the roof. Take a good selection of small-medium wires, plus maybe 1 or 2 CD’s to #1.5.
16
Date with Destiny
Grade 22
31m This has to be up there with the best all natural pro routes you will ever do (discounting the choss band). Weave your way through the 3 cracks, placing multitudes of small-medium wires, if you can hang around long enough. Also take CD’s to #2.5. Fantastic crux right at the top just as it should be.
17
Moped
Grade 18
33m An extended section of poor rock detracts from the otherwise reasonable route. Trend up and R after the 1st chain as you approach on the cliff. Climb up and R again to bridge up the RH of twin 12m corners. Carry on direct or better follow a crack L around the arête 5m up into the corner next door. From the big ledge, finish up the short corner (crux) and step L to DwD’s belay. Al carried on to the summit ridge on the 1st ascent. Take small- medium wires and CD’s #0-3.5.