Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 50 routes total Time 10–20 min 75 m

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Trad - 30 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 20 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Doc%20pt

The Doctors Point area has three separate crags, each with its own character, with 50+ routes developed during 1998–2000. Potential is limited only by your imagination and your concept of what is climbable rock! Give the area a chance, it grows on you, but be careful. The crags face north, getting all-day sun in winter; Coalition Crag in particular is very sheltered, and has Dunedin’s best winter micro-climate (and the warmest sea-water).

Access: From Dunedin, take the Northern Motorway to Waitati (19 km). Turn R at Waitati, then next L and follow the road to Doctors Point (3 km from motorway turnoff). The carpark is notorious for car break-ins – leave no valuables. To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach (10 mins walk). An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 10 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag – 20 minutes. The Arches area is a 300m walk east along the beach from the Doctors Point carpark. Most of the routes cross the delta-shaped slab 50m before you reach the Arches.

Attribution: Dave Brash. Plus the following people supplied route information and/or read drafts: Calum Hudson, Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Marcus Thomas, Kevin Donoghue, Mike Simpson, Andy MacDonald, Simon Cox, Al Mark, Andy Milne, Bob Cunninghame and Laurie Kennedy.

Showing all routes 24 routes total Time 15min 0 m

Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Colit%20crag%201 0Colit%20crag%202

Picture this: a midwinter southerly lashes Dunedin. Sleet and wind-chill put the misery factor off the scale – why do we live here? Jump in the car, 20 minutes later you’re at Doctors Point. The wind and the rising tide chase you through the Arches to a sheltered, warm wonderland. You strip to your T- shirt and shorts, don sunglasses, rack up and chalk up. The high tide has filled the arches and the small coves, adding an aura of remoteness to the feeling of commitment you feel on the rock – length, continual technical interest, friable rock, tricky gear placements – the climbs demand total concentration and care, and reward you at the chains. Look down in your endorphic state at the turquoise waters lapping among the boulders at the base of the route. The sun sparkles of the water. Further out to sea you can see wind and shower whorls, but you are warmed and content. A small, perfectly formed point break is peeling off the Peninsula. Now you are reminded how good it can be to live here. Climbing is an intensely personal and subjective pastime, and I don’t expect others to necessarily enjoy what I do, but this crag is producing climbs that give me a buzz, something that hasn’t happened locally since the Graeme Love era of 15 years ago. In the winter of 1998, Murray Judge’s presence in the area developing the Cutting Crag reawakened my long dormant interest in the Doctors Point seacliffs, and I rapped down from the railway line to have a look at the teetering cliffs between the arches and the Mapoutahi Peninsula. As crumbling rock and loose blocks were being cleared to unearth the first climb on the crag, the tawdry marriage of NZ First and National was simultaneously in the process of disintegration – the metaphor was inescapable. Intensive Care emerged from the rubble and opened my eyes to the middle grade adventure climbing possibilities here.

Access: Carry on through the Arches to Coalition Crag. The Poseidon slab is halfway between the Arches and the Mapoutahi Peninsula. You can also walk from the road end at Mapoutahi in 10-15 minutes. Either way, you might get wet at high tide

-
Acceptance and Loss
Grade 16, 17, 17
23 Bolt
1. Now if I was to award star value for this route then you would need to wait until the final pitch for your reward. You be the judge but I haven't bolted a grade 17 pitch like this for many a year. Pull up the fixed rope directly below the route to begin or work your way up left behind the last pine tree just along the beach then back rightwards through the trees.
2.
3. Rappel from 3 to 2 then to the ground on a single 60m rope.
-
Rendition
Grade 18
9 Bolt
20m Scramble up to the apex of the grassy knoll where Woof begins and then continue about 10 metres downwards to the left to the obvious V groove start. Up this onto the slab above, veering leftwards into a hanging corner and straight up to belay under a roof.
1
Woof !
Grade 15
4 Bolt
15m A dog of a climb; bound to be a fairly unpleasant experience if you choose this as your first Coalition Crag climb. From the ledge 2m L of the corner, climb past bolts to the anchor under the huge, ugly, roof.
2
Vapour Trail
Grade 16
6 Bolt
18m The moves are not too bad, but the sharp, brittle rock takes some getting used to. Don’t be put off, it gets better than this. Climb L and up from under the Doldrums roof and follow the corner to the Woof! chain.
3
The Seventh Wave
Grade 19
25m The direct start through the roof (Steve Carr 1999) is grade 23; for a middle grade classic, start up Fade Away or Roaring Forties before traversing L above the roof into the small L facing corner just R of the LH arete. Directly up the groove and through an overlap to finish up the corner. You can take # 0.5 CD to help protect the easy traverse if you're paranoid, otherwise there are plenty of bolts.
4
(And Not to) Fade Away
Grade 21
10 Bolt
24m Intricate, thought-provoking crux through a maze of Wanaka-style incuts. Crank diagonally R on suspect jugs under the roof to the corner, and pull L above the overhang. Wind your way up the wall with increasing trepidation.
5
Roaring Forties
Grade 20
25m Great climbing from the ground to the chain – one of the best climbs of its grade around. Ape up the blade onto the L trending ramp, then swing R on incuts into the groove below the roof. Layback and bridge steeply through the roof, but it’s not over yet – there’s a tricky slab up to the chain.
6
Siren’s Song
Grade 21
35m Alluring climb on very good rock, once the unpleasant start has been dispensed with. Start up the wide, easy crack splitting the L side of the lower Poseidon slab (a couple of CD’S for this is all the natural pro you’ll need), then steeply L and up through the overhang to gain the small groove. Strange moves are interspersed with rest stances throughout. Step L before finishing as for Roaring Forties.
7
Poseidon Adventure
Grade 18
11 Bolt Trad
40m The best climb I’ve done in NZ’ – Roger from Sweden. Never too hard, seldom too easy, this classic simmers from start to finish – if you climb nothing else at Coalition Crag, climb this. A brittle start gives way to solid rock. Follow pocks to the overlap, then sensationally traverse L on the golden upper slab. Up the crack, then step R above the final overlap and up to the DBB under the roof and 2m L of the main corner. Take a few medium/large wires and CD’s to #2. An inferior variant start on shocking rock 2m L (7a) was bolted to provide an alternative when water seepage makes the normal start unclimbable.
8
Ulysses Unbound
Grade 19
10 Bolt Trad
40m Really good. At Poseidon Adventure’s 6th bolt, thin moves (crux) into the small hanging corner, and eventually into the main corner, which is not quite as easy as it looks. Rack as for Poseidon Adventure. The 6m variant (8a) linking this climb with the upper section of Poseidon Adventure is grade 19.
9
Trident
Grade 19
12 Bolt Trad
50m Really bad. Needs a good clean. From PA’s 5th bolt, medium CD’s protect the hand traverse in the tussock-choked break. Nightmarish climbing sees you at the DBB at the apex of the Keelhauled arete. A couple of interesting steep moves lie in wait on the short bolt-protected second pitch.
9a
Keelhauled
Grade 22
13 Bolt Trad
35m Two equally hard sections – first, pumpy climbing through the intimidating roofs which loom over the lower PA start (take a CD for the break), then the awkward orange arete, leading to the Trident’s first DBB.
10
Head High Tackle
Grade 16, 21
14 Bolt Trad
1. 25m The slabby crux sequence at the start of the 2nd pitch and a good finale are unfortunately separated by choss. Still worth your while. Start at Family Fun and gingerly traverse L under Hartache Arete to DBB at the base of the hanging gully.
2. 25m Up and L out of the gully to the crux on good rock and up more easily before finishing on the orange striped headwall
11
House of Pain
Grade 21
15 Bolt Trad
25m Could end in tears for visiting teams – this inferior variant to Headhigh Tackles 2nd pitch shares that climb’s crux before trending R and up to the R of gully to finish at the top of Hartache Arete.
12
Hartache Arete
Grade 16, 19
16 Bolt Trad
1. Takes a cam between the first and second bolts. Anchor on left, after the traverse and before climbing onto the arête. More fun than a French eye gouging – quite good really. Just remember it’s a game of two halves – you’re looking good at half-time, but the denouenent is still to come. A generous Steve Carr cleaned and bolted it for Dave Brash
2. 20m
13
Family Fun
Grade 20
50m The best of the big corner odysseys? Climb the small rib past the bolt, then through the overlap past a 2nd bolt onto the slab. Up the steep groove (a second bolt was placed to protect this section after the first ascent), exiting L and up easily to the base of the prominent black and white streaked nose. Climb the V corner L of the nose, clip the final bolt on a bulge capping the corner, and climb up L a further 6m to DBB. You’ll need a big rack for this one.
14
Changing Corners
Grade 20
16 Bolt Trad
50m A worthy companion to Family Fun – great climbing in the main corner system makes the manky stuff before and after tolerable. If 16 bolts isn’t enough to entice you onto this pitch, nothing will (but don’t leave your rack behind). Start 6m R of Family Fun, tricky pull through the overlap onto the slab, head for the small V corner and move out L and into the main L facing corner. Good steep climbing before changing corners again. Rather than taking on the spooky overhangs capping the corner, step L to finish friably up the big nose.
15
Limpet
Grade 19
10 Bolt Trad
35m You’ll definitely be put off Coalition Crag if you do this one first, but I have to admit to a perverse liking for it. Start at the slab just R of the R facing corner, step over the corner at 8m and swing over the arete then up the steep crumbling wall trending L at each of the 2 bolts; finish up the cleft. Take a few large wires and CD’s to #2.
16
Intensive Care
Grade 13, 19
1. 16m The varied 2nd pitch of this somewhat retro adventure winds its way through some hostile terrain between two steep facing corners. The line is a drainage chute, and can take ages to dry out following wet weather. The well protected crack splits the black slab. Step R to DBB under the overhangs R of the facing corners above.
2. 29m Move L then up the L facing corner (the R facing corner, 16a, is grade 20). Crank the steep corner past the bolt (#4 CD handy) to the arete, then an exposed step R past the 2nd bolt (this is a great move!) to finish up the crack. Good pro with a full rack of CD’s; hexes are good too.
17
Proctology
Grade 15
16m Not particularly appetising, but it is a change from grade 19. Short corner with an overlap leads to a crack which takes natural pro (wires and CD’s to #1.5) before moving L to the Intensive Care DBB.
18
Under the Knife
Grade 18
19m Sharp. Pull steeply through the sharp blocks to the slab above. You can link up with Intensive Care’s DBB if you wish to continue up that climb’s 2nd pitch – this variant is a bit more interesting than Intensive Care’s original 1st pitch.
-
Navaho Know
Grade 17
15m As you walk along the railway track between the top-out of Intensive Care (marked by the large uprooted pine 8m below the track) and the Cutting Crag, look out for a single bolt and hanger. Rap 15 m off this and a small tree down to a DBB, to climb back out again on – Nasty, not cleaned.
-
The Underdog
Grade 19
20 Bolt
45m Keep walking to the centre of Cutting Crag, and another rap to access the following climb, this time from the ringbolts in the obvious notch immediately opposite Babewatch – Outrageous! The star is for the atmosphere. Rap 45m to the grassy ramp, then climb back out on progressively steeper rock, following many bolts. A little natural gear (mid CD?) is optional near the start of the second pitch. An abseiler, lured by the shiny new ring bolts, fell and broke his back trying to negotiate the rubble between the starting ledge and the beach (his stranded partner was rescued by the Waitati Volunteer Fire Service engine ladder! It must have been low tide).
3a
Compound Fracture
Grade 25
6 Bolt
10m Veer left before the top corner of Seventh Wave climbing a steep wall and get established under the roof. Undercling leftwards past two bolts then straight up through a couple of niches to a chain on the lip of the big roof.

Showing all routes 17 routes total Time 20 min 75 m

Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Rly%20cut

A concentrated burst of effort from Murray Judge and friends from Oamaru produced 15 mainly bolt protected climbs in the quarried blocky rock, sometimes sharp and with unreliable solidity, and not always scrupulously cleaned. The great north facing site would be even more pleasant if the gorse was eradicated. The crag has been well equipped with epoxied stainless steel bolts and ringbolt rap stations. Take some natural pro to supplement the primary bolt protection on most climbs.

Access: To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach. An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 20 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag

1
Teletubbies
Grade 19
22m
2
Loony Tunes
Grade 21
22m Worth doing – it’s quite good.
3
Couch Potato
Grade 19
22m Good rock. Bring your RP’s.
4
Lounge Lizard
Grade 19
22m Come in from the L past 2 bolts to the arete.
5
Lounge Lizard Direct Start
Grade 17
22m The best way to do the arete route. Nice moves through steep lower section to the arete.
6
Blueskin Bay
Grade 17
25m Interesting. Take CD’s to 2.5 and long runners.
7
The Light at the End of the Tunnel
Grade 17
20m comes when you find those jugs on the arete.
8
Saskatoon
Grade 19
22m A couple more bolts and grades added to this route have brought it into line.
9
Babewatch
Grade 20
20m Interesting climbing up the deep corner and through the overlap.
10
Cam Overkill
Grade 18
18m Good moves on the steep upper section.
11
Manic Motorbike Muncher
Grade 15
18m Manky all natural line, needs a good clean.
12
Hole in the Wall
Grade 15
5 Bolt
17m Novelty move - undercling the bottom of the hole with one hand and reach for the top of the hole with the other. Traverse right at the top to finish at the same anchors as Escalator.
13
Escalator
Grade 16
17m Direct to same DBB as Hole in the Wall. Between the 4th bolt and anchors as marked on the map there is one more bolt.
14
Teflon President
Grade 16
7 Bolt
16m 10m to the R of Escalator. In between the 4th and 5th bolts as marked on the diagram there is another bolt. DBB anchors at the top have been cut so be prepared to lower/rapelle from the single bolt at the top.
15
Tunnel-Web Terror
Grade 15
6 Bolt
15m Two bolts have been added between the second and third bolts as marked on the diagram. Pretty hard to see them from the ground but they are there and the route is well protected overall and not too run out.
16
Erotic Vulture
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Small incuts provide the solution to move past the last 2 bolts.
17
Late Press
Grade 19
10m Just discovered – this short boulder problem route with 2 or 3 bolts on the far R of the crag close to the tunnel portal.

Showing all routes 9 routes total Time 5min 0 m

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
The%20arches

At beach level, 5 minutes walk east along the beach from Doctors Point carpark. 50 m before the Arches (two natural arches protruding into the tidal zone),

Access: The Arches area is a 300m walk east along the beach from the Doctors Point carpark. Most of the routes cross the delta-shaped slab 50m before you reach the Arches

1
Calypso
Grade 23
14m The brittle start to the high 1st bolt will put most punters off.
2
Nervous Wreck
Grade 16
16m Climb the L wing of the Delta Slab on marginal pro to the corner (good CD) then onto the nose and DBB.
3
Thrill Me, Honey Honey, Thrill Me!
Grade 22
24m Thrilling climbing once you are in the steep ground – has what it takes to become a classic. Up overlaps to a corner above the Delta Slab, then memorably L to a jug. The last move to the DBB under the roof is the crux.
4
Gold Digger
Grade 19
26m The R wing of the Delta Slab is followed to the steep corner. Up and R before moving L to finish at the DBB on the L diagonal ramp under overhangs.
5
The Mast
Grade 23
23m The sustained crux sequence high on the headwall is only unlocked when the secret hold is discovered – superlative and worth enduring the inferior climbing to get to it.
6
Barracouda
Grade 20
23m Has sharp teeth! A good crux section. Pull steeply and sharply through the initial overlaps past many bolts (you may want to back unclip to prevent rope drag), heading for the deep hanging V corner (crux). Finish as for Gold Digger.
7
Wobblington or Bust
Grade 21, 16
1. 15m Some good moves up the steep arete – cleaning would make it even more enjoyable. A couple of wires before the 1st bolt, then bolt pro the rest of the way. The arete to the DBB on the lower LH corner of the black slab.
2. 12m Up and out L to DBB.
8
Black Slab
Grade 15
21m Brittle slabby climbing on the first route put up on the Lower Cliffs at Doctors Point. The pitch above (8a) has not yet been fully climbed (grade 21?).
-
Hot ‘n’ Spicy
Grade 19
33m Walk 20m right from Black Slab past a pine tree (the only one close to beach level). Starting with an unsalubrious scramble up the gap between the gorse bushes. Really enjoyable, on surprisingly good rock. Carefully up and R on easy vegetated ground for 8m to the lower R edge of the hanging buttress. Great, steep climbing on jugs and side-pulls through overlaps to a slab, following 6 bolts. Take some CD’s to #3 or #3.5 to protect the final crack to the ringbolts. A single doubled rope will reach easy downclimbing to get off .