Trad - 243 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 139 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 6 routes - avg. grade - V0 - V1 V4 - V5 V6+
Alpine - 3 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Dunedin%20rk

The 1989 Canterbury Rock guide described the Dunedin rock scene as ‘a soul centre’: ‘With but three lonely crags to feed their physicality, and unfettered by the cosmopolitan influences and competitiveness of a larger centre like Christchurch, its denizens represent the purest expression of the introspective adolescence that lies usually hidden in us all. Going there is a pilgrimage in which climbing rocks is only a minor part . . . There may be some truth in the put down (although I don’t get the introspective bit), but don’t let that put you off – Dunedin’s charms can be hidden, and not easily revealed. Bring your surfboard, kayak, fins and mask as well as your rack. Enjoy the crags and their magnificent environment, one of the best kept secrets in the country – Dunedin’s amazing coastline, secluded coves, stunning white sand, laid back locals, shags and oystercatchers, perfect surf and dodging Hooker sea-lions on long committing coastal traverses: maybe climbing is only one part of the experience after all.

Access: HISTORY Prehistory The first record of crag climbing around Dunedin dates back to the 1930’s, when groups of Alpine Club members would jump on the tram, don their nailed alpine boots and head for the Silverpeaks. The notorious Big Chimney at Big Rock (access described in Bishop’s ‘From Sea to Silverpeaks’, p85) was the test piece of the time. Big Rock, the other Flagstaff outcrops and Mopanui (another favoured cliff on the hill above Waitati) hold little interest now for rockclimbers of the new millennium. The Pinnacle–Epicentre of Dunedin Rockclimbing The pinnacle at Long Beach gained attention in the 50’s and quickly became a training ground for aspiring alpinists. Protection against injury was deemed to be primarily ‘through the skilled use of hand and footholds’, augmented by slings and pitons. In the early 1960s Bob Cunninghame returned from the UK and introduced the use of nuts (originally standard steel engineering nuts with the threads machined out) and other runners, sparking a jump in standards, and culminating in his ascent of Cunninghame’s Crack, the nemesis of many a climber over the years. Laurie Kennedy writes: ‘Bob called it Kindling Crack – on an unsuccessful attempt he had used a wooden wedge (UK style) for protection, and then a week or so later found someone else had half filled the crack with wedges for aid. We went back the next week with a saw to clean up, producing quantities of firewood for the next BBQ. Bob then used a couple of jammed pebbles to sling runners around and made the first ascent in September 1966. He also incorporated the first girdle traverse of that side of the rock at around the same time. Cunninghame adds – ‘After the effort with the wooden wedges – actually the week after the first ascent – I placed two old soft steel pitons for protection. I really hammered them in so they couldn’t be removed to try to protect the rock. I had an early attempt in March 1966 but found the loose sand and rubble in the crack a bit time consuming and ran out of daylight! I reversed all the way down from the crux.’ 1970s Legends The 1970s saw the rise of an influential new generation of Dunedin climbers who made their marks on the NZ climbing scene – Calum Hudson, Murray Judge, Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Merv English and many others who honed their skills on the Pinnacle and Dunedin’s second crag, Mihiwaka, which was developed according to the emerging ‘clean climbing’ ethic, a reaction against pitons and bolting. By then EB’s (specialised rockclimbing shoes) had replaced the alpine boots, and climbers gradually began to realize there was more to climbing than alpinism – and summits. Hudson was scathing in the OSONZAC newsletter of the time when he found evidence of a piton placement there, ending with the plea, ‘ So please everybody, keep Mihiwaka clean and let’s not have anyone else lowering themselves to the level of this mad basher’. In 1977 a zealot removed all the fixed pitons from the pinnacle, prompting a complaint to the NZAC bulletin that ‘many of the routes were now dangerous, causing a 60 foot fall by one of NZ’s leading rock climbers, resulting in a broken back’. The reference seems to be Calum Hudson’s fall from near the top of End Rib, but he was soloing at the time, so piton removal can hardly be blamed (Hudson also doesn’t recollect major piton removal around that time). Incidentally, Hudson was the founding member of the Long Beach Broken Back Club, which has at least 6 members. Although some examples of rusting ironmongery still decorate the main cliff, the Pinnacle has none – it appears they were never replaced, possibly because Friends came on the market soon after and revolutionised crack protection. The 1980s – Main Cliff Development The main cliff cracks had been used for aid climbing practice since the 60’s, but it was not until 1980 that UK master John Allen and his apprentice Dave Fearnley emerged to open the main cliff to free climbing exploration with a couple of epic forays. Next on the scene in the 1980s was Graham Love. Armed with wire brush, crow bar and bolt kit, he picked off the majority of crack lines and the legendary Crime and Punishment. He has to be considered the major influence in the ‘Golden Age’ of Long Beach development, 1983–86. A young Al Mark found an outlet for his energy and adolescent larrikinism, bolting the faces between the lines with desperate clips and sandbag grades (the 1987 guide lists several Al’s 19s’, which average out at about grade 21) and by 1987 only contrived fill-ins remained to be done, apart from some testpieces from the talented Jeremy Strang/Andy Milne partnership, still the hardest routes in the area ten years later. The Dark Ages The new route fever had not died however, and Dunedin climbers desperate for virgin rock turned to the dubious charms of Walkway and Ramset crags and Port Chalmers Quarry (also visited by the Cunninghame-Kennedy team a quarter of a century earlier), which have since thankfully returned to their dank, vegetated original state with only the occasional rusting coach-bolt to mark the labours of Al Mark, Simon Cox, Ross Cullen, Andy MacDonald and others. With the departure of the major activists from Dunedin in 1988, Greg Aimer set out on a mission to make climbing safe for the masses. He placed bolt anchors along the top of the Pinnacle to create a consumer top-roping area and retrobolted several climbs. His plans to sanitise Long Beach were cut short by his own departure from NZ. The construction of the NZAC Regent Theatre climbing wall in 1990, a 23m artificial wall with bolt-on holds in the centre of town (now dismantled in 1998 to make way for a phantom multi-levelled carpark) and the opening of the World Fitness Centre indoor climbing wall heralded a trend towards sportclimbing. Many 80’s Long Beach routes quickly became unfashionable as rockclimbers turned their backs on run-outs and natural pro to concentrate on closely spaced bolt protection and technical difficulty. Long Beach was already dated, and the future of Dunedin climbing was now to be in Wanaka and Payne’s Ford. Fin-de-Siecle Frenzy After nearly a decade’s dormancy in local new crag development, Steve Carr returned to the climbing scene and in 1996 almost singlehandedly developed the Mapoutahi Crag. The quaint Karitane Rock was ‘discovered’ by Marcus Thomas, and in the winter of 1998 Murray Judge, the most indefatigable activist of them all, bolted the Railway Cutting Crag to initiate a wave of development in the Doctor’s Point area which would yield 50 routes in the following 18 months, mainly from Judge, Carr and Dave Brash. The petrol drill and a willingness to climb on less than perfect rock have opened up new horizons in the Dunedin region. The first serious investigations of the Otago Peninsula sea-cliffs have only just begun. Many of the routes, and even whole crags may be of dubious quality, but at least something’s happening now! Beyond 2000 Even though 80+ routes have been developed in the last two or three years they are mainly moderate routes, often trad style and put up by 1980s (or 1970s) bred climbers. With the exception of Mike Simpson, the new generation of climbers is still looking elsewhere for their challenges. True, the rock resources here are limited for hard climbing, but perhaps another reason is that the climbs are hard won, requiring exploration and battle with difficult access, poor rock, sea, and lichen. Shortage of cliffs around Dunedin has never been a problem, only climbable rock, and the Judges, Hudsons, Loves, Marks and Carrs of the future will continue to unearth new crags from amongst the choss with the aid of petrol drill and crow bar. There may be Superbowls here – you’ll have to work to get to and develop them, and the total experience will always be much richer than the climbing experience alone.

Attribution: Dave Brash. Plus the following people supplied route information and/or read drafts: Calum Hudson, Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Marcus Thomas, Kevin Donoghue, Mike Simpson, Andy MacDonald, Simon Cox, Al Mark, Andy Milne, Bob Cunninghame and Laurie Kennedy.

Showing all routes 50 routes total Time 10–20 min 75 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 30 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 20 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Doc%20pt

The Doctors Point area has three separate crags, each with its own character, with 50+ routes developed during 1998–2000. Potential is limited only by your imagination and your concept of what is climbable rock! Give the area a chance, it grows on you, but be careful. The crags face north, getting all-day sun in winter; Coalition Crag in particular is very sheltered, and has Dunedin’s best winter micro-climate (and the warmest sea-water).

Access: From Dunedin, take the Northern Motorway to Waitati (19 km). Turn R at Waitati, then next L and follow the road to Doctors Point (3 km from motorway turnoff). The carpark is notorious for car break-ins – leave no valuables. To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach (10 mins walk). An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 10 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag – 20 minutes. The Arches area is a 300m walk east along the beach from the Doctors Point carpark. Most of the routes cross the delta-shaped slab 50m before you reach the Arches.

Attribution: Dave Brash. Plus the following people supplied route information and/or read drafts: Calum Hudson, Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Marcus Thomas, Kevin Donoghue, Mike Simpson, Andy MacDonald, Simon Cox, Al Mark, Andy Milne, Bob Cunninghame and Laurie Kennedy.

Showing all routes 24 routes total Time 15min 0 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Colit%20crag%201 0Colit%20crag%202

Picture this: a midwinter southerly lashes Dunedin. Sleet and wind-chill put the misery factor off the scale – why do we live here? Jump in the car, 20 minutes later you’re at Doctors Point. The wind and the rising tide chase you through the Arches to a sheltered, warm wonderland. You strip to your T- shirt and shorts, don sunglasses, rack up and chalk up. The high tide has filled the arches and the small coves, adding an aura of remoteness to the feeling of commitment you feel on the rock – length, continual technical interest, friable rock, tricky gear placements – the climbs demand total concentration and care, and reward you at the chains. Look down in your endorphic state at the turquoise waters lapping among the boulders at the base of the route. The sun sparkles of the water. Further out to sea you can see wind and shower whorls, but you are warmed and content. A small, perfectly formed point break is peeling off the Peninsula. Now you are reminded how good it can be to live here. Climbing is an intensely personal and subjective pastime, and I don’t expect others to necessarily enjoy what I do, but this crag is producing climbs that give me a buzz, something that hasn’t happened locally since the Graeme Love era of 15 years ago. In the winter of 1998, Murray Judge’s presence in the area developing the Cutting Crag reawakened my long dormant interest in the Doctors Point seacliffs, and I rapped down from the railway line to have a look at the teetering cliffs between the arches and the Mapoutahi Peninsula. As crumbling rock and loose blocks were being cleared to unearth the first climb on the crag, the tawdry marriage of NZ First and National was simultaneously in the process of disintegration – the metaphor was inescapable. Intensive Care emerged from the rubble and opened my eyes to the middle grade adventure climbing possibilities here.

Access: Carry on through the Arches to Coalition Crag. The Poseidon slab is halfway between the Arches and the Mapoutahi Peninsula. You can also walk from the road end at Mapoutahi in 10-15 minutes. Either way, you might get wet at high tide

-
Acceptance and Loss
Grade 16, 17, 17
23 Bolt
1. Now if I was to award star value for this route then you would need to wait until the final pitch for your reward. You be the judge but I haven't bolted a grade 17 pitch like this for many a year. Pull up the fixed rope directly below the route to begin or work your way up left behind the last pine tree just along the beach then back rightwards through the trees.
2.
3. Rappel from 3 to 2 then to the ground on a single 60m rope.
-
Rendition
Grade 18
9 Bolt
20m Scramble up to the apex of the grassy knoll where Woof begins and then continue about 10 metres downwards to the left to the obvious V groove start. Up this onto the slab above, veering leftwards into a hanging corner and straight up to belay under a roof.
1
Woof !
Grade 15
4 Bolt
15m A dog of a climb; bound to be a fairly unpleasant experience if you choose this as your first Coalition Crag climb. From the ledge 2m L of the corner, climb past bolts to the anchor under the huge, ugly, roof.
2
Vapour Trail
Grade 16
6 Bolt
18m The moves are not too bad, but the sharp, brittle rock takes some getting used to. Don’t be put off, it gets better than this. Climb L and up from under the Doldrums roof and follow the corner to the Woof! chain.
3
The Seventh Wave
Grade 19
25m The direct start through the roof (Steve Carr 1999) is grade 23; for a middle grade classic, start up Fade Away or Roaring Forties before traversing L above the roof into the small L facing corner just R of the LH arete. Directly up the groove and through an overlap to finish up the corner. You can take # 0.5 CD to help protect the easy traverse if you're paranoid, otherwise there are plenty of bolts.
4
(And Not to) Fade Away
Grade 21
10 Bolt
24m Intricate, thought-provoking crux through a maze of Wanaka-style incuts. Crank diagonally R on suspect jugs under the roof to the corner, and pull L above the overhang. Wind your way up the wall with increasing trepidation.
5
Roaring Forties
Grade 20
25m Great climbing from the ground to the chain – one of the best climbs of its grade around. Ape up the blade onto the L trending ramp, then swing R on incuts into the groove below the roof. Layback and bridge steeply through the roof, but it’s not over yet – there’s a tricky slab up to the chain.
6
Siren’s Song
Grade 21
35m Alluring climb on very good rock, once the unpleasant start has been dispensed with. Start up the wide, easy crack splitting the L side of the lower Poseidon slab (a couple of CD’S for this is all the natural pro you’ll need), then steeply L and up through the overhang to gain the small groove. Strange moves are interspersed with rest stances throughout. Step L before finishing as for Roaring Forties.
7
Poseidon Adventure
Grade 18
11 Bolt Trad
40m The best climb I’ve done in NZ’ – Roger from Sweden. Never too hard, seldom too easy, this classic simmers from start to finish – if you climb nothing else at Coalition Crag, climb this. A brittle start gives way to solid rock. Follow pocks to the overlap, then sensationally traverse L on the golden upper slab. Up the crack, then step R above the final overlap and up to the DBB under the roof and 2m L of the main corner. Take a few medium/large wires and CD’s to #2. An inferior variant start on shocking rock 2m L (7a) was bolted to provide an alternative when water seepage makes the normal start unclimbable.
8
Ulysses Unbound
Grade 19
10 Bolt Trad
40m Really good. At Poseidon Adventure’s 6th bolt, thin moves (crux) into the small hanging corner, and eventually into the main corner, which is not quite as easy as it looks. Rack as for Poseidon Adventure. The 6m variant (8a) linking this climb with the upper section of Poseidon Adventure is grade 19.
9
Trident
Grade 19
12 Bolt Trad
50m Really bad. Needs a good clean. From PA’s 5th bolt, medium CD’s protect the hand traverse in the tussock-choked break. Nightmarish climbing sees you at the DBB at the apex of the Keelhauled arete. A couple of interesting steep moves lie in wait on the short bolt-protected second pitch.
9a
Keelhauled
Grade 22
13 Bolt Trad
35m Two equally hard sections – first, pumpy climbing through the intimidating roofs which loom over the lower PA start (take a CD for the break), then the awkward orange arete, leading to the Trident’s first DBB.
10
Head High Tackle
Grade 16, 21
14 Bolt Trad
1. 25m The slabby crux sequence at the start of the 2nd pitch and a good finale are unfortunately separated by choss. Still worth your while. Start at Family Fun and gingerly traverse L under Hartache Arete to DBB at the base of the hanging gully.
2. 25m Up and L out of the gully to the crux on good rock and up more easily before finishing on the orange striped headwall
11
House of Pain
Grade 21
15 Bolt Trad
25m Could end in tears for visiting teams – this inferior variant to Headhigh Tackles 2nd pitch shares that climb’s crux before trending R and up to the R of gully to finish at the top of Hartache Arete.
12
Hartache Arete
Grade 16, 19
16 Bolt Trad
1. Takes a cam between the first and second bolts. Anchor on left, after the traverse and before climbing onto the arête. More fun than a French eye gouging – quite good really. Just remember it’s a game of two halves – you’re looking good at half-time, but the denouenent is still to come. A generous Steve Carr cleaned and bolted it for Dave Brash
2. 20m
13
Family Fun
Grade 20
50m The best of the big corner odysseys? Climb the small rib past the bolt, then through the overlap past a 2nd bolt onto the slab. Up the steep groove (a second bolt was placed to protect this section after the first ascent), exiting L and up easily to the base of the prominent black and white streaked nose. Climb the V corner L of the nose, clip the final bolt on a bulge capping the corner, and climb up L a further 6m to DBB. You’ll need a big rack for this one.
14
Changing Corners
Grade 20
16 Bolt Trad
50m A worthy companion to Family Fun – great climbing in the main corner system makes the manky stuff before and after tolerable. If 16 bolts isn’t enough to entice you onto this pitch, nothing will (but don’t leave your rack behind). Start 6m R of Family Fun, tricky pull through the overlap onto the slab, head for the small V corner and move out L and into the main L facing corner. Good steep climbing before changing corners again. Rather than taking on the spooky overhangs capping the corner, step L to finish friably up the big nose.
15
Limpet
Grade 19
10 Bolt Trad
35m You’ll definitely be put off Coalition Crag if you do this one first, but I have to admit to a perverse liking for it. Start at the slab just R of the R facing corner, step over the corner at 8m and swing over the arete then up the steep crumbling wall trending L at each of the 2 bolts; finish up the cleft. Take a few large wires and CD’s to #2.
16
Intensive Care
Grade 13, 19
1. 16m The varied 2nd pitch of this somewhat retro adventure winds its way through some hostile terrain between two steep facing corners. The line is a drainage chute, and can take ages to dry out following wet weather. The well protected crack splits the black slab. Step R to DBB under the overhangs R of the facing corners above.
2. 29m Move L then up the L facing corner (the R facing corner, 16a, is grade 20). Crank the steep corner past the bolt (#4 CD handy) to the arete, then an exposed step R past the 2nd bolt (this is a great move!) to finish up the crack. Good pro with a full rack of CD’s; hexes are good too.
17
Proctology
Grade 15
16m Not particularly appetising, but it is a change from grade 19. Short corner with an overlap leads to a crack which takes natural pro (wires and CD’s to #1.5) before moving L to the Intensive Care DBB.
18
Under the Knife
Grade 18
19m Sharp. Pull steeply through the sharp blocks to the slab above. You can link up with Intensive Care’s DBB if you wish to continue up that climb’s 2nd pitch – this variant is a bit more interesting than Intensive Care’s original 1st pitch.
-
Navaho Know
Grade 17
15m As you walk along the railway track between the top-out of Intensive Care (marked by the large uprooted pine 8m below the track) and the Cutting Crag, look out for a single bolt and hanger. Rap 15 m off this and a small tree down to a DBB, to climb back out again on – Nasty, not cleaned.
-
The Underdog
Grade 19
20 Bolt
45m Keep walking to the centre of Cutting Crag, and another rap to access the following climb, this time from the ringbolts in the obvious notch immediately opposite Babewatch – Outrageous! The star is for the atmosphere. Rap 45m to the grassy ramp, then climb back out on progressively steeper rock, following many bolts. A little natural gear (mid CD?) is optional near the start of the second pitch. An abseiler, lured by the shiny new ring bolts, fell and broke his back trying to negotiate the rubble between the starting ledge and the beach (his stranded partner was rescued by the Waitati Volunteer Fire Service engine ladder! It must have been low tide).
3a
Compound Fracture
Grade 25
6 Bolt
10m Veer left before the top corner of Seventh Wave climbing a steep wall and get established under the roof. Undercling leftwards past two bolts then straight up through a couple of niches to a chain on the lip of the big roof.

Showing all routes 17 routes total Time 20 min 75 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Rly%20cut

A concentrated burst of effort from Murray Judge and friends from Oamaru produced 15 mainly bolt protected climbs in the quarried blocky rock, sometimes sharp and with unreliable solidity, and not always scrupulously cleaned. The great north facing site would be even more pleasant if the gorse was eradicated. The crag has been well equipped with epoxied stainless steel bolts and ringbolt rap stations. Take some natural pro to supplement the primary bolt protection on most climbs.

Access: To access the Railway Cutting crag, climb up the grassy slope to the railway line, which traverses the hill about 75m above the beach. An alternative way to the cutting is to turn into White Rd (it really is white) 700m before the beach and park at the railway crossing. Walk east along the line for 20 minutes to the tunnel portal, which marks the RH end of the crag. Keep a careful watch for trains, and stay out of the tunnel at all times. Alternative access from the east is as follows: from Mapoutahi crag, walk 100 m to the neck of the peninsula (Mapoutahi Pa, a near impregnable Maori fortress inhabited until the 18th century). A rough track ascends the spur to the railway line, coming out close to the eastern portal of the tunnel. Total walking time from Mapoutahi crag to Railway Cutting crag

1
Teletubbies
Grade 19
22m
2
Loony Tunes
Grade 21
22m Worth doing – it’s quite good.
3
Couch Potato
Grade 19
22m Good rock. Bring your RP’s.
4
Lounge Lizard
Grade 19
22m Come in from the L past 2 bolts to the arete.
5
Lounge Lizard Direct Start
Grade 17
22m The best way to do the arete route. Nice moves through steep lower section to the arete.
6
Blueskin Bay
Grade 17
25m Interesting. Take CD’s to 2.5 and long runners.
7
The Light at the End of the Tunnel
Grade 17
20m comes when you find those jugs on the arete.
8
Saskatoon
Grade 19
22m A couple more bolts and grades added to this route have brought it into line.
9
Babewatch
Grade 20
20m Interesting climbing up the deep corner and through the overlap.
10
Cam Overkill
Grade 18
18m Good moves on the steep upper section.
11
Manic Motorbike Muncher
Grade 15
18m Manky all natural line, needs a good clean.
12
Hole in the Wall
Grade 15
5 Bolt
17m Novelty move - undercling the bottom of the hole with one hand and reach for the top of the hole with the other. Traverse right at the top to finish at the same anchors as Escalator.
13
Escalator
Grade 16
17m Direct to same DBB as Hole in the Wall. Between the 4th bolt and anchors as marked on the map there is one more bolt.
14
Teflon President
Grade 16
7 Bolt
16m 10m to the R of Escalator. In between the 4th and 5th bolts as marked on the diagram there is another bolt. DBB anchors at the top have been cut so be prepared to lower/rapelle from the single bolt at the top.
15
Tunnel-Web Terror
Grade 15
6 Bolt
15m Two bolts have been added between the second and third bolts as marked on the diagram. Pretty hard to see them from the ground but they are there and the route is well protected overall and not too run out.
16
Erotic Vulture
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Small incuts provide the solution to move past the last 2 bolts.
17
Late Press
Grade 19
10m Just discovered – this short boulder problem route with 2 or 3 bolts on the far R of the crag close to the tunnel portal.

Showing all routes 9 routes total Time 5min 0 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
The%20arches

At beach level, 5 minutes walk east along the beach from Doctors Point carpark. 50 m before the Arches (two natural arches protruding into the tidal zone),

Access: The Arches area is a 300m walk east along the beach from the Doctors Point carpark. Most of the routes cross the delta-shaped slab 50m before you reach the Arches

1
Calypso
Grade 23
14m The brittle start to the high 1st bolt will put most punters off.
2
Nervous Wreck
Grade 16
16m Climb the L wing of the Delta Slab on marginal pro to the corner (good CD) then onto the nose and DBB.
3
Thrill Me, Honey Honey, Thrill Me!
Grade 22
24m Thrilling climbing once you are in the steep ground – has what it takes to become a classic. Up overlaps to a corner above the Delta Slab, then memorably L to a jug. The last move to the DBB under the roof is the crux.
4
Gold Digger
Grade 19
26m The R wing of the Delta Slab is followed to the steep corner. Up and R before moving L to finish at the DBB on the L diagonal ramp under overhangs.
5
The Mast
Grade 23
23m The sustained crux sequence high on the headwall is only unlocked when the secret hold is discovered – superlative and worth enduring the inferior climbing to get to it.
6
Barracouda
Grade 20
23m Has sharp teeth! A good crux section. Pull steeply and sharply through the initial overlaps past many bolts (you may want to back unclip to prevent rope drag), heading for the deep hanging V corner (crux). Finish as for Gold Digger.
7
Wobblington or Bust
Grade 21, 16
1. 15m Some good moves up the steep arete – cleaning would make it even more enjoyable. A couple of wires before the 1st bolt, then bolt pro the rest of the way. The arete to the DBB on the lower LH corner of the black slab.
2. 12m Up and out L to DBB.
8
Black Slab
Grade 15
21m Brittle slabby climbing on the first route put up on the Lower Cliffs at Doctors Point. The pitch above (8a) has not yet been fully climbed (grade 21?).
-
Hot ‘n’ Spicy
Grade 19
33m Walk 20m right from Black Slab past a pine tree (the only one close to beach level). Starting with an unsalubrious scramble up the gap between the gorse bushes. Really enjoyable, on surprisingly good rock. Carefully up and R on easy vegetated ground for 8m to the lower R edge of the hanging buttress. Great, steep climbing on jugs and side-pulls through overlaps to a slab, following 6 bolts. Take some CD’s to #3 or #3.5 to protect the final crack to the ringbolts. A single doubled rope will reach easy downclimbing to get off .

Showing all routes 18 routes total Time 5 min

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 4 routes - avg. grade - V0 - V1
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 25 22 - 25
Karatane

Almost a good little crag, Karitane rock features crack lines on well featured, good quality, idiosyncratic basalt (Marcus calls it ‘volcanic limestone?!’), and a fine 15m pinnacle with hard face and crack climbing on its front face, and chimney climbs rising from within the bowels of the cliff behind it. The downside? Facing south to southeast, and exposed to moisture-laden winds off the sea, the outcrop sports luxuriant growths of moss and lichen. The climbs are mostly short and many are broken up by large ledges. A great place to visit on a hot summer’s day. Marcus Thomas ‘discovered’ the outcrop during a risk management course in 1996, and returned with Kevin Donoghue and Joe Arts to climb many of the cracks, buttresses and aretes. Surprisingly they left alone the choice front face of the pinnacle except for the fine arete (Perfect Sound Forever) and it was left to Dave Brash and Mike Simpson to put up climbs on this great piece of rock. There is potential for further routes here but it would be a shame to lose the beautiful hanging fern and moss gardens on the cliffs – this is why some areas have been left alone.

Access: From Dunedin, follow the main road north for 22.5 km, turning off 3 km past Waitati into the Coast Road. Drive through Seacliff (stop off and visit the site of the former mental asylum described in Janet Frame’s autobiography), and exactly 9 km from the turn-off, park at an obvious carpark. If you reach the Karitane viewpoint, you’ve gone 1.km too far. The outcrop is visible on the hill-side above the road, surrounded by a stand of native bush; it’s 5 minutes walk uphill through farmland to the base of the pinnacle. 'The farmers, Mr and Mrs O'Connell, ph 465 7402, are happy for people to visit 'Big Rock' as long as they are contacted beforehand. The usual care on farmland applies: No dogs!! Please leave the gates as you find them, and stay away from stock.'

Attribution: Dave Brash

1
JimmyJazz
Grade 17
9m A fine little climb – you’ll wish it was longer. At the LH end of the crag, climb direct to the undercling at the break, then up the crack to a slightly run-out finish (might be worth cleaning the top-out before climbing it).
2
Angel Eyes
Grade 18
12m Doesn’t look very alluring, but this crack climb only reveals its charms when you climb it. It may be short but this sustained little cameo makes Kindling Crack seem like a one move wonder.
3
Thunderbird
Grade 24
2 Bolt
9m Two bolts lead to a rounded problematic finish.
4
Finesse
Grade 23
13m Sometimes you can make your contract with a less than powerful hand – but you will need to finesse. Sustained and devious. Up the crack with increasing commitment until you can move R into the upper crack. With small to medium wires and CD’s (with a #3.5 to protect the step R from the top of the main crack), the pro may be adequate – maybe a bolt should be placed.
5
Powerplays
Grade 25
15m A superb testpiece to open the millennium. Powerful climbing up the incipient flaring crack L of Perfect Sound Forever leads to a welcome rest in the big scoop before the tenuous final moves R and up to the chain.
6
Perfect Sound Forever
Grade 20
12m Really good. From the canyon, step out onto the arete to the apex of the awesome spire. The moves – and the view! – get better the higher you go. Add a grade if you can resist bridging the start.
7
Jenny’s Health Cuts
Grade 18
15m Climb the face of the leaning pillar with chainlink hangers and natural pro in the breaks, finishing up the steep main wall just R and behind the pinnacle.
8
Headwind
Grade 15
15m The beautiful but short top section is marred by the nasty off-width start. Awkwardly mantle onto the ledge at half height then nervously off the ledge on marginal pro, which quickly improves to protect the steep crack above.
9
Bestial Machinery
Grade 22
8m Rock up through large pocket moving R to the arete. Brush the top before you climb it.
10
Losing or Cruising?
Grade 15
7m The obvious jam crack is quite good. .
11
Slacker
Grade 11
6m Wow, a multi-pitch climb. The crack above Losing or Cruising? has amazing hex placements. Exit R.
12
Solid Gold Hell
Grade 15
8m An awkward start up the crack from the ledge leads to a move R onto the wall, then through the small inverted V roof on jugs to the top. Belay way back in the rocks. .
13
Spiral Stairs
Grade 9
8m Easy access route on R end of crag.
a
Green Palm
Grade -

b
Horse Sense
Grade -

c
The Crack
Grade -

d
Masterlock
Grade -

-
Thirsty Dog
Grade 13
8m 30m to the R of Spiral Stairs is a block split . The obvious off-width thrutch. There is also a boulder problem up the arete (a dangerous 18/19).

Showing all routes 164 routes total Time 5 min 5 m

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Trad - 112 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 47 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Alpine - 3 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Boulder - 2 routes - avg. grade V8 V4 - V5 V6+
Image003Long%20beach%20view

The main period of route development at Long Beach was in the early 1980s, when the adventure ethic was pre-eminent, and many routes from this era are sparsely bolted by today’s standards. Considerable ability, ingenuity and experience is needed to protect many climbs adequately using natural pro – sportclimbers beware! The easy cracks of the Pinnacle often offer only adequate protection in often friable rock. You’ll need a comprehensive rack of CDs (including the smallest sizes) and wires (don’t forget the RPs). Double bolt belays service all Main Cliff climbs, and most of the Pinnacle. To add to your recreational enjoyment, expect long run-outs, friable, lichenous and sandy holds, loose blocks and great moves, occasionally even great climbs. Chalk up, take a deep breath, check your runners and go for it!

Access: From Dunedin, drive to Port Chalmers (12 km). Immediately after the 50 km speed limit sign, turn left up the hill for 300m (signposted to Purakaunui and Long Beach), then right to climb the hill past Scott’s Memorial. Follow the Purakaunui road and turn off right at 22 km to descend to the Long Beach township. Turn left at the domain, drive past the public toilets (there are no toilet facilities in the crag area) and park at the far end of the cricket field. Walk along the track for a couple of minutes; look to your left 30m before reaching the beach and you’ll see a large detached block with a compact, rectangular face. This is the Dragon’s Lair. Areas and climbs are described from left to right.

Attribution: Dave Brash. Plus the following people supplied route information and/or read drafts: Calum Hudson, Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Marcus Thomas, Kevin Donoghue, Mike Simpson, Andy MacDonald, Simon Cox, Al Mark, Andy Milne, Bob Cunninghame and Laurie Kennedy.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 5Mimn 2 m

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This was the most recently developed area at Long Beach. For years bored climbers have stood and stared at the cliffs at the southern end of Long Beach wondering if there was anything worth climbing there and eagerly desiring new routes to throw themselves at. Several people have even ventured through the stinging nettle undergrowth along the base of the cliff only to be put off by seemingly short routes or the unclimbable 5m high dirt base guarding the best looking rock. Once while hopefully examining the wall and commenting on its potential a climber watched horrified as a large chunk of loose rock broke off high on the cliff and plummeted down the face. However, eventually the cliff was rappelled down from above and after considerable cleaning (including levering off loose rock above the routes) Mike Simpson bolted several routes in 1998-1999.

Access: The best way to the base of the routes is by a rough track 15m before Dragon's Lair, that goes back through the grass to the base of the large trees and then up to the foot of the cliff. From there prusik or jumar up several metres of rope to the hanging belay. Climbing the nearby tree is easier and cuts the rope ascent in half.

-
Parousia
Grade 21
20m From the belay chain move L and up the small overhanging face (crux) to LH arete then up and L again to the chain anchor on the yellow coloured rock. Unclipping the first bolt (after clipping the second with a long draw) may be helpful to reduce rope drag.
-
Project
Grade 27
18m Project 18m 27ish Bolted line L of the belay directly up to the anchor chain. Medium wire before the first bolt.
-
Millennium Hopes
Grade 25
18m The line of bolts directly above the belay. Moving left at the top to the chain anchor. Fairly easy climbing with one hard move.
Trad - 11 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 23 22 - 25
Dragons%20liar

Simon Cox writes in 1996......... ‘many years ago, Al Mark and I were looking for new rock to climb on at Long Beach. Bashing our way through the stinging nettles, we came across an awesome tall block, that was eventually to yield the classic routes When the Fog Lifts, Married Alive and Instrument of Torture (among others). As we began to clean and bolt, we debated whether or not to clean down the scrub from the base of the cliff. I wanted to cut down a small lemonwood tree, to let the air into the crag to help it dry quicker, to free the area and to make it look more impressive. However Al, in his usual insistent manner, argued that the tree was a native and we should leave it be. So the tree stayed. Well, much time passed while sportclimbing came of age. The old bolts we had placed became rusty and very dangerous, and needed replacing. So a bit like little red hens we set about obtaining money for stainless steel bolts and hangers, and arranged for a work party with drills and generators. On the day of the work party, which incidentally only a few turned up for, I decided to rebolt the block. By now the routes were very popular despite the awful bolts. Somehow or other I stuffed my abseil, and sailed into midair from the top of the block and plummeted downwards. Poetically, I ploughed into the lemonwood. The tree slowed my fall and saved my life. Recently, I was out at the beach again, and went to attempt Married Alive to shake out some cobwebs and see whether or not I was totally past it. At the bottom of the route, I was disappointed to see that someone had broken down one half of the lemonwood tree, clearly making room at the bottom of the climb. The magic lemonwood tree, which had been saved from the destruction of rockclimbers and had mysteriously repayed the favour, now stands rather broken and sad. Although I’m not a superstitious person, I can’t help worrying just how mystical this tree may be. Is an accident imminent for the person responsible for its destruction ?’ Simon and Al might have ‘discovered’ the Lair , but Phil de Joux put up the first routes, commencing with the classic When the Fog Lifts. Watch out for stinging nettles.

Attribution: Dave Brash

1
Married Alive
Grade 24
11m From arete at L of face, strenuously hand traverse R and up on to the ledge. Finish up the Arms Race V groove.
2
Instrument of Torture
Grade 26
12m S for Andy Milne, who bolted the upper face and slaved away on it for a couple of months before giving it to Dave Fearnley. Start as for Married Alive. Continue straight up face above 2nd bolt of Married Alive and out to arete.
3
Satan's Sidepull
Grade 29
11m Up the centre of the wall below the Arms Race V groove. Being really tall and able to crimp on small sloping edges would be helpful. Go to it.
4
Now That the Love Has Gone
Grade 24
11m Bouldery start 2m L of When the Fog Lifts and directly up the face, clipping any convenient bolts. Carry on past the horizontal break (CD) to mantle finish just R of V groove.
5
When the Fog Lifts
Grade 18
10m This great little arete keeps on coming at you. Dyno or use the secret hold to get past the first bolt. The vertically challenged can add a grade. Take pro for the top crack to protect the final mantle.
6
Arms Race
Grade 19
11m Clean the V groove first, then climb the route - it’s worth it. Clip the last bolt of When the Fog Lifts, retreat to the ledge, move up and L past a final bolt to the crack where it opens into a V (interesting moves here!). Good pro.
7
Smug with Semen
Grade 22
9m A bit squalid. Clip the bolt on the wall R of When the Fog Lifts arete, drop down, then up to the R. Merits rebolting and cleaning.
-
La Grande Bouffe
Grade 18
20m On wall opposite Smug with Semen. Starts as for Bulimics Picnic and trends up and L, finishes up steep crack by the macrocarpa tree. The top can be protected by placing gear in the crack.
-
Bulimic’s Picnic.
Grade 17
20m On wall opposite Smug with Semen. A grade underrepresented at Long Beach (‘Three stars – one of the best climbs at Long Beach,’ says Calum Hudson). From the top of the gully step R into the groove, then up past 2 bolts and out R of roof, then up more easily to Double Bolt Belay.
-
Teddy Bears Picnic
Grade 16
20m Ascends arete and groove immediately R of Bulimics Picnic, similar finish.
-
Thudwah in a Big Wednesday Background
Grade 16
8m 10 m to the R of the Dragon’s Lair gully is a short easy-angled corner with a steep base. This is - Crux before the bolt, then bridge up the corner. Simon is happy for anyone to re-equip this by lowering the first bolt and putting in a second to create a more pleasant and user-friendly route – it needs a good clean too!
-
Sliding and Flying
Grade 23
2 Bolt
18m Traverse the L wall above Thudwah, then over the bulge to 2 old belay bolts, or continue up the arete to join Teddy Bears Picnic. Two glued terrier bolts with hangers. Use with caution.

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 3min 3 m

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Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21

Consists of the boulder opposite Day of the Vijaks, and the Philanderer Wall. Aside from the superb Philanderer, the only useful purpose of this area is to act as a grandstand to watch the action in the Big City. A DBB services the following 6 climbs on the boulder:

Attribution: Dave Brash

-
World of Plastic
Grade 19
8m Stay in line with the single bolt on the L side of the block.
-
Zippy Goes to Dysneyland
Grade 19
8m Short crack to R. Pro - one wire.
-
Rusty Nail
Grade 14
7m Climb nose of block.
-
Quicksilver
Grade 14
7m The arete.
-
Thrush
Grade 15
6m L route on wall facing Day of the Vijaks, 1 bolt.
-
Moomaamoo
Grade 16
6m An amusing boulder problem, now with a bolt.
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 30 26+
Phil%20wall

The leaning Philanderer Wall faces Labours of Love from the L side of Garbage Gully:

1
Nameless Route
Grade 18
8m Start below Philanderer groove, traverse up and L, clipping Philanderer bolt as you go (not there for first ascent). Slightly stressful top-out on less than perfect rock. Bill Macleod soloed it while waiting for his belayer to thread the belay plate.
2
Philanderer
Grade 24
8m A wedding present for Luke - the news that the route he had been working on had been completed for him. Climb the obvious line of chalked holds moving left past a small cam placement and then back right to the bolt. Power up right into the V-groove to find bomber pro and an absorbing finish.
3
Nautilus
Grade 30
5 Bolt
8m The steep and blank wall immediately right of Philanderer. Hard crimping leads to powerful and dynamic moves. Originally bolted by Geoff Ellis.
4
Garbage Gully
Grade 17
50m The name and appearance means the chasm at the back of the gully gets few ascents, but don’t be put off – the big chimney is still a great adventure climb, originally entered by traversing in from the L along ledge above Philanderer. Classic chimney and up headwall to the top of the pinnacle. The descent became tricky after a huge tree fell from the top of Main Cliff in 1977 smashing and destroying what was previously easy. In 1973 Murray Jones led the whole chimney by climbing up the outside (very impressive to watch and second) and graded it HVS/5.8.
3a
Cylla
Grade 29
4 Bolt
Scramble up to ledge above Philanderer and power up overhanging wall above, moving left to chains after exiting V groove.
Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 25 17 - 21 22 - 25
Bolt%20city

Interlaced with mainly bolted climbs on generally good quality rock, but blighted by lichen on less than vertical rock and lack of sunlight. Many climbers think ‘chainsaw’ when they contemplate the huge macrocarpa guarding the area.

3
Pseudomania
Grade 21
15m from above Philanderer Wall, traverse easily R past old bolts, then over bulge to corner. Climb the corner (crux) to ledge. Belay here or continue (grade 15) to upper anchor.
4
Jeremy’s Route
Grade 24
3 Bolt
13m A testament to Jeremy’s strength (and reach). It turned out that it was not as bad as it looked. Direct up the black streak and through the overlaps to join Labours of Love at the piton. There is a variation that heads left at the top to another bolt and chain.
5
Labours of Love
Grade 24
6 Bolt
15m Perennially popular testpiece, due to the sustained series of quality moves (and the unusually close spacing of the bolts?) Every young wannabe dogs this to death, usually as their next project after conquering Alesia. The great name gives a clue to the route’s history - cleaned, bolted and rehearsed by Graham, and stolen by Phil!
6
Twenty Twenty
Grade 25
7 Bolt
15m Twenty-five! 3 bolts and a peg lead to the Labours of Love belay. The pedigree of the route above (6a) is somewhat muddied in the mists of time. Greg Aimer named, bolted and worked on the upper arete without success (he may have climbed past the top 2 bolts out of Pseudomania), and was enraged when Jeremy and Andy claimed to have climbed it. Andy now doesn’t remember climbing it, and thinks they must have been ‘just stirring Greg.’
7
Day of the Vijaks
Grade 20, 21
1. 12m The marginal pro low down has held a fall from the crux just below the visible fixed piton, but don’t count on it. The grade has been inflated to allow for the ground-fall potential. Soloed by Luke.
2. 18m This great pitch has dealt out some big wingers, especially when the RP’s have been left behind. Unable to find an abseil anchor on the first ascent, Dave and John down-climbed loose blocks, then the entire pitch. Traverse R under the roof, then up R facing corner (crux) to bridge R and finish up Pearly Gates. Originally with two pitons which have since rotted out, the final moves are now quite serious.
8
John Allen Corner
Grade 21
15m A hard move past the bolt to gain the corner above Day of the Vijaks belay (or pull on the bolt to give you a great adventure at grade 17, A0), then up to the ledge. Move L to finish up Pseudomania (grade 17), or finish direct (grade 21+). John Allen, 1980. Direct finish (a.k.a. Maundering Mind)
9
Squeal Like a Pig
Grade 23
15m Al’s triumphant return to Long Beach after a new route hiatus here lasting 11 years. Direct through the reachy roof above Vijaks belay and up the airy arete. Great position.
9a
Gracilis
Grade 24
6m Traverse L past a bolt from Vijaks pitch 2 corner into Squeal Like a Pig.
10
Acid Queen
Grade 23
12m The sustained sickle crack is barely adequately protected with RP’s and old pitons.
11
Bdoing !
Grade 23
12m is the sound (of an uncoiling spring) you must make when you dyno. Do it from the piton on Acid Queen, up and R to finish on Hunger. Very bold.
12
The Hunger
Grade 23
15m Ungradeable, really. Phil cleaned and bolted this, then traded the first ascent for a lift to the beach. He watched in amazement as Luke baulked at the obvious dyno and climbed it statically.
13
The Solitary Vice
Grade 25
4 Bolt
15m Originally graded 24; apparently a key hold broke off this route making it more difficult, although it has been climbed in its present condition. Clip 2nd bolt on Murray, then go L, then up past another bolt.
14
Murray
Grade 19
4 Bolt
15m Described in the 1987 guide as ‘the beach’s classic face route’, it has clips annoyingly far to the L to try and steer the climber away from Pearly Gates. The previously desperate first clip has been moderated with rebolting..
15
Pearly Gates
Grade 19
30m Justifiably popular, this varied route only looks unpleasant. Progressively harder and more interesting moves up the L facing corner to a mantle, and balancy face moves (take RP’s) lead to the finale moving R over the arete at the bolt.
16
My Spine is the Baseline
Grade 23
30m Intriguing and frustrating: worthy of greater popularity. Up the scooped wall R of Pearly Gates and into the crack climb above with difficulty.
3.5
Capricious
Grade 25
Immediately left of Jeremy's Route. Staight up the line of bolts to the left hand chain. The variation form Jeremy's Route uses the same last bolt and chain.
Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21
Main%20cliff%20lhs

Build-up of dirt and vegetation in the main cliff cracks is an ongoing problem – do a little gardening as you rap back down. You should be able to rap off with a single doubled rope from all anchors from Aafnraa to Burning Sky, but beware – it may be more than 25m to actual ground level, so don’t rap off the ends of your rope. There have been several abseiling injuries at the beach.

Attribution: Dave Brash

3
Tainted Love
Grade 19
30m This varied face climb deserves a clean and rebolting.
4
Aafnraa
Grade 18
25m The twin defences of nasty rock and a big tree (which fell down in 1997) meant this was the last of the main cliff cracks to be climbed. Follow the nasty crack and the two bolts added after the first ascent to the creaking layback crux (the crux moves are fun, actually).
5
Swiss Version
Grade 21
25m Recent rebolting (and repositioning of one of the sandbag bolts, much to Mark’s disgust - ‘it was only a bit run out!’) may see renewed interest in this long ignored face climb. On second thoughts the crux, on rounded lichen-infested slippery holds, may never come back into fashion. Go L after clipping the first 2 bolts of Straight and Narrow. Original finish out R to join Straight and Narrow. Al Ritchie added another bolt to protect a direct finish to the Aafnraa DBB.
6
Heiti Heiti Kahikatoa
Grade 18
25m An interesting and frequently climbed face route, but a deceptively nasty fall is possible from above the last bolt - more than one injury (including a broken ankle) has been reported due to glancing off the slab below. The scar above Heiti is evidence of a rock avalanche down the route a few years ago, and a reminder of the tiger country that sits above us on the Main Cliff.
7
Keeping on the Straight and Narrow
Grade 16
25m The easiest way up the main cliff - a popular excursion. Up loose, vegetated ground to first bolt, then traverse R (crux) past a 2nd bolt to the crack. Finish R and rap off the Wanker DBB. Reasonable pro.
8
Call Me Wanker
Grade 20
25m ‘cos you stole my route.’ The exciting mantle through the roof will get the adrenaline flowing, then up a pleasant crack on the headwall.
9
Blockhead
Grade 19
25m Follow L facing corner to overlap (crux), then up the crack. .
10
Noxious Vapus
Grade 18
25m Poorly protected climbing to the horizontal break (fiddly but adequate pro here), then a committing step R across the inverted V roof before trending L and up.
11
Freddy Fudpucker
Grade 20
23m Better than it looks. Admittedly, it looks pretty bad. Plenty of bolts see you safely through brown overlaps into the hanging gully. The red fishing buoy hanging from the anchor is a permanent Long Beach fixture which causes much open-mouthed wonderment among Sunday strollers on the beach.
12
Where the Boys Are
Grade 21
23m Up Freddy Fudpucker past 2 bolts, swing out onto the arete L past another bolt and up the edge of the arete on natural pro.
13
Fleet Street
Grade 20
26m Great. Devious crux moves to stand on the sloping ledge (just relax now, you won’t slip off!), nervously arrange your pro, then great moves up the twin cracks above. Move L to finish.
14
Morning Glory
Grade 20
24m The arete. Easy loose climbing (no pro) to the bolt, which protects the crux, then run it out on marginal wires to the top (easier but friable). Is it worth it?
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Main%20cliff%20cent

Home of some of the Dunedin classics

2
Lightening Strike
Grade 20
7 Bolt
24m Direct middle section of Morning Glory to R of arete using finger pockets and small edges.
3
Priapism
Grade 21
24m Move L onto buttress after clipping Burning Sky bolt. A bit brittle and contrived.
4
Burning Sky
Grade 19
24m One of the most popular Main Cliff climbs. Easy climbing up to the bolt, then bridge up the hanging corner to a steep final crux. Good pro once you’re past the bolt.
5
Strenophobia / Xenophobia
Grade 22
25m Graham originally traversed in from the Burning Sky bolt, but the enervating direct start (21) turns a good climb into a great one, marred only by the easy middle section. Sustained climbing through the overlap and up to the horizontal break (large wire), then follow bolts to the final short crack. You can escape up Burning Sky if you can’t do the crux at the final bolt. Graham Love, 1984. Direct start (Strenophobia)
6
Shark Attack
Grade 20
35m Full value adventure climb with occasionally less than perfect rock and pro. Bridge through the bulge, then R to L facing corner. .
6a
Variant start to Shark Attack
Grade 23
A direct start to the Shark Attack corner was bolted by Steve Carr in 1998 but after a few attempts Steve bequeathed it to the masses. Al Mark claimed a first ascent by clipping the first bolt, moving right 2m and up, avoiding the crux before joining the second bolt and the rest of the route. Travelling light he then led the rest of Shark attack on 3 pieces of gear. Mike Simpson climbed directly up the route up the line of the bolts the following week, 1999.
7
Love Al Root
Grade 20
35m Start as for Shark Attack, then up the wide friable crack to the classic layback. Save up a 1.5 CD for the layback crack!
8
Crime and Punishment
Grade 22
32m The Beach classic. Graham’s first attempt ended with a huge fall when he missed the move for the perma-chalked jug high on the arete. The exposed tenuous climbing still raises the heart rate, even with the extra bolt he placed before his next attempt. Interest is maintained by run-outs on the moderate sections of the climb. Start up the L leaning ramp at the base of the arete, then steeply up pockets into the small hanging corner. Swing L to easier runout climbing above the first bolt (no natural pro past here) to the ledge. Marvelous airy sustained climbing follows the arete to the top.
9
Slime and Sediment
Grade 22
15m A worthwhile variant but the last (old, hangerless) bolt is able to be clipped from C&P, interfering with the exhilarating run-out up to the mid-height ledge of the latter climb.
Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Main%20cliff%20rhs

R of C&P, the climbing has little to recommend it before Perfect Skin.

3
Whine and Botherment
Grade 21
2 Bolt
7m Avoid ‘The mantle challenge of the century’ on the block 5m R of C&P by finding the secret hold.
4
Fringe Benefit
Grade 19
15m Formerly a scary little number up the groove, now protected by retrobolts in the lower section. Start behind the small macrocarpa tree.
5
Fringe Benefit Variant
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m Wall R of Fringe benefit. Al Mark connected Slime and Sediment with this climb in 1998..
-
Voyage of the Dawn Treader
Grade 23
100m Girdles may be historical oddities, but this full traverse of the Main Cliff and Bolt City is a great expedition of Darran proportions. Starting at the Fringe Benefit macrocarpa, move L onto the C&P buttress and continue mostly at mid-height, belaying at any convenient stances (originally climbed in about 5 pitches). The crux across the nose from Fleet Street to Freddy Fudpucker may be desperate if you’re not 6’ 9’’ with long arms, like Richard. Finish at the Philanderer ledge.
6
Nuclear Free
Grade 16
22m Nasty gully, presently (1999) marked by a tatty old fixed rope, a symbol of Richard Clarke’s C&P addiction. When he couldn’t find a belay slave, he’d go up his fixed rope to set up a top-rope shunt for yet another few ascents of his beloved climb. .
7
Demarcation
Grade 22
8m The thin crack splits the wall R of the Nuclear Free gully. No anchor. Bound to be unrepeated.
8
Climbing Sucks People In
Grade 17
8m and impels them to ascend items like this (well, one person anyway - probably hasn’t had a second ascent ).
9
Climbing Sucks Variant
Grade 20
10m The obvious overhanging arete. Climb the crack from the base of the arete (natural gear) or step in R from Climbing Sucks (19) and follow bolts to DBB.
10
Some People
Grade 15
8m - will climb anything to get into a guidebook. Shouldn’t be in the guidebook.
11
Some People Variant
Grade 19
2 Bolt
8m R H wall past 2 bolts.
12
Fluid Ethics
Grade 19
3 Bolt
15m Left hand arete of Perfect Skin Wall. Good climbing past 3 bolts leads to an easier top section, protected by medium wires and a mid-large cam. Shares the same belay chain as Never Enough.
13
Never Enough
Grade 25
4 Bolt
14m 2m L of Perfect Skin.
14
Perfect Skin
Grade 25
3 Bolt
14m Arguably the best product of the post Love era at the Beach, and second only in popularity to Labours of Love among sportclimbers, with a tricky crux that keeps spitting them off.
15
Meals on Wheels
Grade 13
8m The corner crack. A reasonable lead, but take care with some suspect rock.
16
Never Again
Grade 18
6m The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named.16. Never Again 6m 18 The second pitch to Meals on Wheels curves up L to DBB. Aptly named.
17
Fraggle Rock
Grade 18
8m Contrived face climb fighting to stay out of the corner. Finish out R around the belay ledge block. .
18 - right of right-most route
Super viper overdrive
Grade 0
sport route put up a couple of years ago by Steven McInally. Looks awesome. More details pending.
Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Pinnicle.bs

Good climbing in the Jumping Jellyfish area is often unfairly ignored due to its dark aspect. The remainder of the backside has little to recommend it. Bob Cunninghame and others ventured onto the backside in the 60’s to climb some of the lines. Bob writes, ‘…they were fairly awful – sandy and loose rock. Seem to remember protection was dubious or non existent!’ The first seven climbs are serviced by a DBB at the apex of the pinnacle, up and left of the manky gully, which sounds suspiciously similar to Bob’s description – don’t climb this!

1
Fundamental Blues
Grade 18
20m Not bad once you reach the groove, if you ignore the lichenous nature of the rock. Start up Jumping Jellyfish and traverse diagonally L on poor pro past the piton (due to be replaced with a bolt) into the groove, then past 4 bolts to belay on Tombstone Arete.
2
Jumping Jellyfish
Grade 19
19m Up the flakes and thin cracks to handjam then step R into the prominent corner. The first ascent was carried out in sandshoes and without the benefit of the jam crack (later cleaned).
3
Drury Lane
Grade 20
22m Superb. Start up Jumping Jellyfish and climb into the cave. Cut loose on the hand traverse out to the L (2.5 friend in the break, well tested by Jeremy in a 12m screamer) to mantle and finish up the headwall.
4
Love Don’t Live Here Anymore
Grade 21
22m Incorporates the nice boulder problem start up the pocketed wall. Direct through overlap and to Jumping Jellyfish ledge, then diagonally out L to the arete past another bolt, and finish up Drury Lane.
5
Cuttlefish
Grade 21
8m Graded 19 in the 1987 handbook. Clip the bolt, then frantically hand traverse L until you can gain the Jumping Jellyfish ledge.
6
The short crack
Grade 15

7
Whiskey Train
Grade 19
14m The diagonal crack splits the L wall of the disintegrating block. Desperately mantle onto the ledge (it helps to be tall). Adequate pro.
8
Blue Suede Shoes
Grade 18
15m Not too bad, surprisingly enough. The middle section is quite interesting and well protected. The crack R of crumbling gully.
9
Floyd
Grade 15
8m Crack on L of Gauntlet wall. No pro to speak of.
10
Gauntlet
Grade 19
8m The thin crack in the centre of the brown wall is virtually unprotectable.
11
Pathology
Grade 21
8m Bulge to face to V corner, all in about 6m. Packs a lot of punch for a short climb – I actually like it. Possibly adequate pro - you be the judge.
-
Orifice
Grade 22
8m A contrived but hard little problem squeezed in between Pathology and Thunderbox past one old bolt .
12
Thunderbox
Grade 19
8m Greasy layback crack to mantle, or ‘an interesting face climb’, claims Hudson. .
13
Greenhorn
Grade 20
7m Poorly protected overhanging wall. Nice rock.
14
Baked Beans
Grade 15
7m LH route inside chimney.
15
Squashed Banana
Grade 15
7m RH chimney route.
16
Sand Bird
Grade 12
20m Hardest at bottom. Easy access to top of pinnacle via seaward arete.
Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Pinnacle%20low%20ssLong%20beach%20topo%20final

Still the epicentre of Dunedin rockclimbing, a serendipitous combination of superb microclimate, white sand and easy access to consumer classics attracts hordes of top-ropers on a sunny weekend, while the rest of the crag can remain deserted. DDB’s service nearly all the climbs. Usual access to the top is via the Overkill or Rhubarb gullies or the Seabird arete. If you solo these access routes to set up top - ropes, remember that these are all graded climbs on often less than perfect rock. The Sunnyside is continually shedding rock, especially from higher up - helmets are a very good idea when there is heavy traffic on the crag.

1
Peach
Grade 14
7m Through small roof and up dish.
2
Bandura
Grade 11
13m Excellent first climb. Steep climbing onto the slab at 5m, or come in from the R (easier), then up the groove to the DBB on the Seabird Arete. Adequate pro.
3
Bumpkin
Grade 13
16m Several alternate starts – the easiest and best protected traverses L from the Alesia Gully – to mantle onto the big ledge, then up the awkward corner crack.
4
Leap of Faith
Grade 20
18m Classic short problem up the hanging wall, retrobolted a few years after the first ascent. It sees few lead ascents since Steve removed the bolt in 1998. The crux can be protected adequately by RP’s, then with trepidation up to the horizontal crack (# 3 CD) and finish direct at the same grade. The bolt has now been replaced.
5
Alesia
Grade 14
18m The Beach’s cardinal beginner’s classic, and a rewarding lead on excellent pro (rare for the easier Long Beach climbs). The fun begins at the base of the chimney where the handholds seem to disappear just as the route steepens, then it’s all on – bridge or chimney your way to glory!
6
Not
Grade 17
18m Up the arete between Alesia and Rhubarb...There are now 2 bolts, but the anchor is a natural one.
7
Rhubarb
Grade 12
18m Traverse R (crux) around the nose into the base of the big easy gully.
8
Anticlimax
Grade 14
18m Direct start to Rhubarb.
8.5
Unknown Sport Route
Grade 19
4 Bolt
The overhanging arete to the left of Kindling Crack is an instant classic sport route. The major rockfall has opened up what was once bolted years ago and considered too contrived. Fantastic climbing up the overhanging arete leads to a rock over crux onto the arete at the 4th bolt. Then step right and mantle over to glory and the double bolt belay. From here you can please yourself by rapping off, continuing up left into Watching the Defectives, or continue up right past a piton and some pro to the next double bolt anchor. There is no excuse for top roping this one, give it a go on lead, you can see the bolts are close together...
9
Kennedy’s Crack
Grade 17
8m Kennedy in fact has never climbed it! The legend arose in 1969 while Laurie was overseas for 2 years. No one could ‘repeat’ this fearsome off-width with their new PA’s, and ascribed his ‘success’ to the wide stiff alpine boots which climbers had previously worn. On returning to Dunedin in 1971, Laurie was able to set the record straight and provide the incentive for an eventual real first ascent. Definitely out of fashion - it’s seldom even top-roped these days but should be part of every climber’s apprenticeship. Adequate pro
10
Falling Star
Grade 21
9m For four years, the hardest climb at the beach. The crack curving up R from Kennedy’s. Adequate pro.
11
Watching the Defectives
Grade 23
13m Al’s failure to finish the route direct is enshrined in the blob of Araldite above the last bolt, where he attempted to glue on a hold. Jodie Apiata claimed the first ascent of the direct finish 2 years later thinking Al had finished L into Kennedy’s Crack, but Al is sure he originally finished direct, despite the lack of adhesion of his new hold.
12
Kindling Crack (a.k.a. Cunninghame’s Crack)
Grade 19
20m Redolent with history and adrenaline. Scene of countless epic struggles (and screamers) where the perfect handcrack widens to off-width. The traditional finish is out R, but for a three star combination continue up the thin crack to finish as for Flight of the Chalkbag. Good pro. A major rockfall has significantly changed this route. It is still a similar difficulty and still a classic.
13
Flight of the Chalkbag
Grade 20
9m Excellent direct finish to Kindling Crack. Incredibly, Jo Kippax fell mantling into the cave, ripped his two pieces of pro, cratered into the sand - and walked away uninjured. From the cave reach up high and L to blindly clip the bolt, then swing out onto the Defectives Wall to dyno for the jug.
14
Horace Has a Bricky Hiccup
Grade 22
24m Overhanging stepped arete L of Surreptitious. Ape factor an advantage if you don’t want to cheat and move R into Surreptitious at first overlap. Contrived - a bit close to Surreptitious
15
Surreptitious
Grade 18
4 Bolt
24m A strenuous start up the overhang. Once established in the layback crack, relax and clip the bolts. Nice climbing follows up the pockets and jugs to the 4th bolt. Originally, here you bridged up to glory. But since the major rockfall, you have two choices, rock over out right into Crapulence and then back left (easy) or, finish up the now desperate direct boulder problem. Double bolt anchor on the ledge at 2/3 height.
16
Crapulence
Grade 16
24m The excellent strenuous boulder problem crux into the easy manky gully is poorly protected.
17
Canoeing Down Everest
Grade 21
8m Pumpy jam crack through the bulge. Scramble up Crapulence gully, or continue up Naked Doom - this combination is worth a star.
18
Naked Doom
Grade 20
18m The arete R of Crapulence gully has exciting, exposed climbing. Now with a retrobolt, the top section still warrants a great deal of respect, protected by marginal small wires.
Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V4 V4 - V5
Pinnicle%20up%20ss

The small speckled hanging face further L is bordered by the upper Go crack on the R and the Yes corner on the L. The ledge from which you psych up for the Yes crux does not yet exist

2
Ruminate
Grade 18
7m Corner, L to join Crapulence. Protection is illusory.
3
Testing Seams
Grade 13
7m Traverse from Yes to Crapulence along the obvious break.
4
Oui
Grade 20
18m Classic variant to Yes. Start up Yes and follow the seam (2 bolts for pro) to a strenuous mantle. Finish up the Yes groove.
5
Yes
Grade 18
18m A Sunnyside classic, if a little bit scary. Climb up L of the nose. Grovel onto it, then face moves off the ledge and out L (crux) and into the V corner, exiting L under the summit overhang. You’re looking at a potentially nasty fall on the crux moves, otherwise adequate pro.
6
Go
Grade 16
18m Up the corner crack immediately R of Yes, sharing the same start. Finish up the wide crack immediately L of Overkill gully.
7
Dying to get Down
Grade 18
5m The speckled face has an old bolt in the centre.
8
Hominoid
Grade 14
15m A couple of variant starts (direct is a boulder problem 16) to the R facing corner. Worth a star when you finish on the upper Go crack (same grade).
9
Myopia
Grade 14
7m Good little problem through the roof between Hominoid and Overkill.
10
Overkill
Grade 12
15m A tricky start traversing on the polished slab from the R, then crank into the big corner. Good pro once you are in the gully. Watch out for a pendulum at the start if you’re toproping this – a good spotter will do the trick.
11
Sticky Fingers
Grade 17
10m Traverse in from Overkill gully to nice slab climbing; a couple of very marginal RPs for pro. They would probably rip out so treat this as a solo.
12
Dicky Fingers
Grade 22
12m First bolt placed on the Sunnyside protects the sharp, crimpy direct start to Sticky Fingers. .
13
Astroboy
Grade V4
4m Long Beach has its first V boulder grade! An interesting and worthwhile boulder problem on the large boulder below Dicky Fingers. Climb the LH side of the slightly overhanging face on good crimpers to an interesting top out.
14
End Rib
Grade 16
8m Step off the balcony to the protectionless arete – was about grade 12 before some rocks were ‘persuaded’ off the first couple of moves many years ago.
-
Scarab
Grade 14
9m The face round the corner, finishing on End Rib.

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 15 min 3 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 11 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Page%201%20 %20intro%20pageNorth%20cragCityofrefuge2013 01 18%2017.03.05 0

From the Pinnacle, walk northwest along the beach 200m to the 8m buttress which provides short, naturally protected climbs, most of which have been soloed over the years.

Attribution: Calum Hudson & Shane Greene Descriptions & Topos. Route 13 picture modified from original at https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416065715815

1
What's the Scoop?
Grade 17
3 Bolt
Head up to the horizontal cracks through the scoop and out right to the anchors. Still a bit sandy at the very top.
2
Precipitation
Grade 17
2 Bolt
Easy climbing to the blocky ledge to clip the 1st bolt. Balance to the 2nd and face climb to the anchors. Steve Carr, 1980. Dave Ireland and Calum Hudson, 2010....so named because it was heavy rain mixed with HAIL (Precipitation) when Dave was bolting it....and it is on the precipice of this face.
3
Father and Son
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Starts on Beewall and finishes up the face just right of precipitation. Don't get sucked over to precipitation because there is a cool sidepull to get up on the fce. See Beewall for full description.
3a
Father and Son Variant
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Father and Son Variant heads *right* after first bolt and awkward crux, then step delicately right and head up face.
4
Cecile
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugness to finish it off.
5
Wallace
Grade 19
3 Bolt
Safe climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. If you want to make it tricky head up to the bolt straight under the overhang.
6
Black and Blue
Grade 18
up the blue black wall with lot's of potential gear. Head left to anchors.
7
Cavernous
Grade 17
Head up toward the cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors.
8
Unnamed
Grade 14
Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugness to finish it off.
9
Veggie Patch
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Stay left of the 1st bolt for an easy wander up the blocks, slightly harder to the right. Clip the second bolt and move up to the right of the veggie patch. Bit tricky over the veggie's but there is a nice fist jam awaiting up top to pull you through.
10
Two Chins No Balls
Grade 17
4 Bolt
Straight up through the cavy upper bits.
12
Grim Farry Tail
Grade 17
4 Bolt
Head up the right fin. Spicer than it looks from the ground. Potentially due to suspect rock. Should clean up well.
13
City of Refuge
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m Right of "Seawall" in "Project Area": https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416065715815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater
14
Rare Earth
Grade 19
5 Bolt
15m Through the overhangs on the left-hand side of the large cave and up the breccia wall above.

Showing all routes 17 routes total 3 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 16 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V11 V6+
Beach%20cave%20endCave 0

The climbs around and above the caves to the right of the North Butress.

Attribution: Calum Hudson & Shane Greene

1
Concrete Thinker
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Straight up the wall. Watch out for small bits of loose or friable rock.
2
The Levellers
Grade 15
3 Bolt
Again, straight up to the anchors. Some movement right may be needed.
3
Kiloton
Grade 17
3 Bolt
Into the corner and then out.
4
Bum Plod
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Slightly tricky boudlering to the first bolt. Pretty big jugs the whole way after that up over the overhangs.
5
Bowels of Mercy
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Start bouldering down in the cave and stay left for the best challenge.
6
Purple Hayes
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Starts on "Cave Central" and rocks up the arête.
7
Sandy Daze
Grade 17
3 Bolt
Cool moves past the 1st bolt.
8
Bob Zimmerframe
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Right of the scoop, some trad gear down low and easy finish to anchors.
9
William Shatner Handbag
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Small overhand in this one.
10
Like it or Tlingit
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Boulder start and bulges, move left to chimney and up then left to anchors.
11
Magnet
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Starts bouldery and boldly up to the first bolt then into niche. Hang on to finish right.
11a
The Fridge Joke
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Bouldery start with cool bridging moves in the roof. Hang on to finish right.
12
Pamela Anderson
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Big "Jugs" up the face and edge.
13
El Zymer
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Very neat face moves and well protected crux .
14
Flaky Cadburys
Grade 19
4 Bolt
Big scoop allowing clippage of the first bolt. Tricky moves to get to and past the second. The line has been straightened and now goes directly up the wall to it's own belay.
15
Cave Woute
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m Last cave right. Through the roof of the bouldering cave on surprisingly good rock. Fantastic moves.
-
Chronos
Grade V11
Traverses the roof of the cave: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAnnK6rBK34

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 5 min 5 m

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Img 0188 0Scarface 0Beach%20cave%20end 0

A small cave of rock suitable for dry tooling. Two bolted routes and a fun traverse make for great training for mountaineering and building forearm muscles you thought you already had, but really don't. Bolted May-June 2014 with generous funding from the Otago Section NZAC. DO NOT GET OVERLY EXCITED AND START DRY TOOLING ON THE ESTABLISHED ROCK CLIMBS in the other parts of the general cave area. NB: The bolted rock climb on the LHS with glued-in U bolts in the manky rock band and a chain anchor is the Steve Carr rock climb Rare Earth (19). Please don't dry tool this climb above the first bolt.

Access: Between the 'North Buttress' (aka the mini-Pinnacle) and the bouldering/sport climbing caves lies this small cave, directly underneath the ultra-manky hanging cave.

1
Je ne regrette rien.
Grade 0
12m The traverse - with feet just above ground height, using a series of natural and drilled holds with some longer reaches. Named after the bouldering traverse 'Rien' which this overlaps.
2
Scar Face
Grade 0
8m Short route up the face to DBA below the roof. Eliminate hooks in the crack to up the difficulty. Rock is generally solid - but be careful choosing your clipping holds for the top anchor.
3
Unnamed
Grade 0
12m Unnamed and unclimbed as at end June 2014. Bolted with 200mm glue-in bolts, yes this route has some god-awful rock but hopefully it will clean up nicely. Will probably be hard and a bit scary, just like the mountains. CAUTION 1: wear a helmet. Belayer wear a helmet. Belayer stand to the side where they (and the rope) won't be hit with any falling rocks. CAUTION 2: users assume ALL responsibility for their safety when climbing here. All care has been taken to use appropriate glue-in bolt techniques with 316 marine grade stainless steel bar, however we must acknowledge that bolts and glue are only as good as the rock and bolts should not be considered bomb-proof.

Showing all routes 52 routes total Time 20 min 150 m

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Trad - 47 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Ll%20mapLovers%20leap%20topo

A crag with a ton of atmosphere which makes up the side of a 225m cleft.

Climbing Notes

Many routes are defended by an initial 4–8m band of choss which is well protected by bolts and chains. Once the choss has been negotiated you will be rewarded by wonderful climbing on shallow basalt organ pipe extrusions offering a multitude of intricate movement options in sustained sequences. The protection is excellent on nearly all of the routes, unless described in the guide. Take a good trad rack – offset wires and small cams are very handy. Having the skill and endurance to use them is also helpful. Take care when rapping off! The raps are at the danger length and the ground slopes away below.

History

With an observation platform at the lip of the amphitheatre, Lovers Leap was hardly a secret. Murray Judge looked at it in the early 1970s, but development had to wait for the arrival of the power drill. Al Ritchie first put up routes here in 1998. They were impressive ground up efforts, which included leading through the horror show bands of choss. He raved about the potential, but disappeared into the Wanaka scene, never to be heard of again. In December 2000, Steve Carr and Dave Brash, abseiled in to check it out. They discovered beautiful organ pipes defended from above and below by bands of terrible rock. Amazingly they had the crag pretty much to themselves for a couple of years. Keith Riley returned to Dunedin and could not believe the “best single pitch crag in the country” had miraculously appeared in his absence. Keith contributed a slew of first ascents, and the development of easier short routes on the left side as well as more sport routes. The Leap has been exposed to the masses via the Southern Faces DVD, a cover photo on the Climber, and inclusion in that issue’s National Basalt Hit-list; this has coincided with increased popularity.

Access: Follow Highcliff Rd out of Dunedin, past Larnachs Castle, then 15km from Dunedin turn right into Sandymont Rd which is followed to the carpark at its end. Follow a signposted track through macrocarpas, past a woolshed, towards the Lovers Leap viewing platform. About 100m before the platform, turn left down a gully, going steeply downhill and around the right-hand side of the crag, then double back along the base of the crag.

Attribution: Dave Brash

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 25min

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Trad - 11 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Lovers%20leapLovers%20leap%202

The wall under the platform. Furtherest away from the approach.

Access: Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge.

1
Back to the Wall
Grade 22
20m Walk L under the crag 200-300m until you are directly in line with the gash under the natural bridge. Start up crack (crux natural pro) which splits the broad buttress directly beneath the observation platform, then only slightly easier climbing past the vegetated ledge following the line of 5 bolts.
2
Gumboots
Grade 20
14m Packed with action from start to finish. Exit R to DBB
3
Artificial Weddings
Grade 27
13m Thin climbing in the shallow groove with ridiculous rp pro before high bolt.
4
Extreme Measures
Grade 23
4 Bolt
12m Great short sport climb. 4B on face 2m R or AW
5
Excruciate Crack
Grade 20
40m R of EM is a nose about 6m above the ground. Start 5m L of the nose. Start marked by bolt at 2m (rarely dry)
6
Water World
Grade 19
Start under nose, to ring bolt at 10m. Extension grade 23 is rarely dry enough to climb.
7
Dave Brash's Climb
Grade 18

8
Steve Carr's Climb
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Nice face climbing that makes you think.
9
Jam & Buscuits
Grade 14
13m Learn how to jam and chimney. Twin facing cracks and corners with the black inset wall.
10
The Empire Strikes Back
Grade 22
13m Grunty thin crack & bulge 1m R of J&B
11
Return of the Jedi
Grade 19
13m Corner Crack
12
Dave Brash's Climb
Grade 21
18m A staunch wee corner that will get you thinking - and skating! You're now warmed up for the face above. Place a big wire or med cam and shoot straight up the crack above or alternatively inch out right and up before heading back left to the belay.
13
Strawberry Jam
Grade 16
Dodgy rock at top.
14
Tears from Heaven
Grade 22
12 Bolt
25m Scramble up onto the top of two pillars and step across onto the wall. Nice juggy climbing until a staunch move rightwards to the arête then up. Cross over the cleft then up onto a ledge beneath a hanging corner. Bridge the corner before striking out leftwards up a black flake to an atmospheric belay on the lower edge of the Cyclop's Eye.
Trad - 17 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 28 26+
Copy%20of%20lovers%20leap%20%232

A cluster of mostly easier short crack corners with excellent pro, often split by ledges but all worth doing as an introduction to the Leap, and warm ups for the for the harder RHS climbs. The LH routes also dispense with the annoying band of choss at the start.

0
Access Route
Grade 16
18m Climb the Lh facing corner of the easy looking gully, then diagonally R up ramps and short corners to JtI & CTA belays.
1
Cardboard Choas
Grade 23
18m Thin crack takes small wires & cams to #0.5.
2
Just the Tick-it
Grade 22
18m Desperately layback while placing wires & CDs to 0.5 You've been warned!
3
Canada Dreaming
Grade 25
25m The Steep crack just just L of CTA is independent for about 7m, but packs in a huge punch. Both muscular & subtle, on adequate pro.
4
Crying Time Again
Grade 18
25m A good first climb at the Leap with bomber pro and sensational climbing up the twin cracks between the pillars. Start by scrambling up the blocky ledges past the chain link belay bolt down and right of Just the Tick-et. Some tricky bridging to get off the ledge, then superb jams and bridging lead up to an exciting move leftwards at the top into the left crack. Continue easily up the short corner on the left to the same belay bolts as Triple Treat.
5
Triple Treat
Grade 19
30m One of Al's more sane on-sight pioneering efforts here. Feels like 3 short routes one after the other. From the rock prow belay below Side Effect, clip the bolt and climb easily up to the ledge at 5m, then 3 linked corners moving L at each ledge to finish at the belay chain above Crying Time Again. Another good introduction to the area with good protection and lots of bridging.
6
Side Effect
Grade 22
25m Great consumer climb, the routes name gives some beta. Start up the 1st of Triple Treat's 3 corners, then move right to all bolt pro for the business end of the climb. Up the deceptively steep corner above, before finessing through the small roof and finishing directly up the exposed arete above. You'll find out why you were melting off those jugs when you rap back down. Triple bolt belay.
7
Don't Cry For Me Argentina
Grade 25
25m A great crux up high. Start as for TT & SE, moving R past bolt & follow likely cracks (twin ropes useful) to finish up R facing corner to SE's DBB. For a mega 50m pitch carry on up The Cure if you dare.
8
Slapstick
Grade 21
20m 2 bolts protect access R to steep crack splitting buttress R of DCFMA. The continuation is a RH facing corner which links The Cure. Climbed by JC at grade 25 in 2006
9
Al's Jam Crack
Grade 19
24m Perfect hand jamming, would get more stars if longer. once on the ledge there are furthur options.
10
Left Side Spike
Grade 20
Bridging up the L facing corner crack cumulates in a tricky crux move to the tantilising jug. Take CDs up to #1.5. Finish at DBB just above and to the R of the spike.
11
The Cure
Grade 20
20m This mind excursion is climbed as a 2nd pitch to TA, but can be accessed by any route between Se & TA. Cruxy bolt protected climbing on breccia knobs above a rubble ledge (don't fall off clipping) before bridging upthe easier groove ( natural pro, not the best rock) and stepping out to atmospheric DBB under roof.
12
The Affliction
Grade 18
20m The R side of the spike. Interesting climbing.
13
Walk of Shame
Grade 19
11m Short but nice L facing corner
14
Stereo Cameo
Grade 19
12m From the fixed rope ledge, move up & R onto ledge. Great little test-piece crux follows cruisy bridging up twin facing corner cracks above
15
Brave Dash
Grade 20
12m From DBB around the corner from SC, tricky to climb & place pro for a few metres, then respite before the easier but run-out chimney. Finish as for SC
-
Man of Leisure
Grade 28
Powerful and tenuous climbing up to and through a bulge (all on bolts). There is a lower off ring above the bulge if you are only interested in sport climbing - however the original route continues up a well protected finger crack at grade 25. Take a selection of wires and small to med cams.
16
Maximun Pseudo Likelihood
Grade 28
10 Bolt
20m The late Bill Bradshaw's classic addition to the Dunedin climbing scene. Spectacular! Bullet hard orangey rock, ultra techinical, quite powerful & sustained climbing with only a few places to sneak a quick shake.
Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 23 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 23 22 - 25
Copy%20of%20rh%20lovers%20leap%20topos

An orange wall packed with steep columns.

1
Seawitch
Grade 22, 16
1. 22m The deep, steep corner directly above the lowest point of the Sandy clay ‘V” shaped band is accessed by a fixed chain (route length is from top of this chain). Great bolt protected climbing up the deep corner with the crux at the top before moving R to ledge, then stepping L for a 6m natural pro finished section. Take some medium-large wires and cams #1.5 – 2.5.
2. 12m Bridge the steep corner to DBB.
0
Orange Peel
Grade 27
27m Fairly sustianed with one difficult crux that you keep peeling off from. Step L after ascending Seawitch's fixed chain, follow bolts with a few medium wire placements to finish on Sw ledge.
2
Demilitarised Zone
Grade 27
10 Bolt Trad
25m Fixed chain between SW and BoS leads to a line of 9 bolts. Sustained climbing to a hidden hold at mid-height allows you to cross the border onto the upper wall where the nature of the rock changes. Although the struggle eases somewhat, only stamina will take you to the chains.
3
Balls of String
Grade 25
13 Bolt Trad
35m Follow the closely spaced bolts on the beautiful mottled orange wall L of WtF. Stepping out R to the WtF ledge gives you a quality sport route, but for full experience, step L off the ledge, clip one last bolt and swing around the corner to the natural pro crack (medium CDs) then a wild heel hook onto the semi detached pillar at the top. This finish is a recommended mind blowing 2nd pitch at about grade 19 to any route that finishes on the WtF ledge. Alternatively, bypass the ledge and continue straight up the line in one long push - the rest on WtF ledge has been eliminated.
4
Welcome to Failure
Grade 24
30m It has all the hallmarks of a signature Lovers Leap classic.The open groove is incredibly sustained, technical and tenuous with the crux at the top, on natural pro. Take a few smallish offset wires and cams to #1.
5
Pink Cadillac
Grade 22
22m The rock lower down is not quite of the quality of the surrounding routes, but the large amount of traffic has cleaned up this climb. Good pro, (bolts then a series of medium offset wire placements) and continuously great climbing cumulate in a go for it crux moves to awkwardly positioned jug, again near the top of course, when your strength has been sapped. Choices of finishes- L onto WtF ledge is best, then a 2nd pitch up BoS to finish for a classic combo.
-
JCs Route
Grade 23
Continue above the Pink Cadillac ledge climbing a nice corner crack on natural pro (take mostly med cams). Clip two bolts before swinging left to a belay hidden on a sloping ledge.
6
It Always Ends in Tears
Grade 22
26m -and that is just getting to the base of the climb! 3 bolts protect you through the chossy cauliflower heads and a traverse L (best back clean as you go), then all natural pro to the top in the mesmeric serpentine crack which appears hand size, but seldom offers more than fingerlocks. Take a comprehensive rack of wires & cams to #2.5, doubling up around #0.5.
7
Trojan Horse
Grade 22
26m Start as for GG, moving L after 3rd bolt and step around L into tricky corner after reachy bolt clip. Cruxy moves up the thin corner to ledge and final corner on natural pro. Finish at IAEiT DBB. Double ropes are handy. Take large selection of wires & cams to #2.5
8
Greek Gift
Grade 21
24m Cave Dona dona ferentes. Hard climb. Steep bouldery start gives you a good pump-out and lots of confidence for the real start of the climb. From the ledge, it gets straight into hard bridging for 7 or 8m before crossing R onto another ledge. Simon says that “if you are 19-20 climber and accidently stumble onto this climb then you are f***ed! But if you are a confident 21 climber then you will love this climb. You have a good chance of falling and breaking your legs on the ledge while trying to place small wires”
-
Ovation
Grade 26
25m Mike's addition to the brace of Main Cliff classics is a fitting memorial to Bill Bradshaw. The line of 8-9 bolts follows a shallow groove between GG and PU
9
Parallel Universe
Grade 25
10 Bolt Trad
30m Searing stemming and finger-locks up the L facing groove to a no hands rest in a niche. Move out and up hanging corner to a ledge, then up a short wall above.
10
Bird Dropping
Grade 23
8 Bolt
20m Sidle under the VW goove and up the steep face to the left on amazing rock. Further bolts have been added since the pillar fell out of the wall. Finish at the new VW belay or up the top section of PU or continue up LaWR.
11
VW-Long and Winding Road
Grade 23, 20
1. 20m Sadly the 8m high pillar self ejected in Dec 2005, moving the route up a few grades from 20 to 23. Start up Unrequited’s fixed chain, move L into the bolted V corner (crux), now known as VW, and up to a bolted belay.
2. 20m Clip the bolt and move left around a corner and up nice cracks to an awkward pedestal. Surmount the pedestal, up the corner and through the L side of the W roof. Don't worry about the roof; if you can't hand-jam the gear is good for dogging. Take a big rack! This pitch can be accessed by abseil from a ring bolt anchor on the ridgeline above on the access track. A great adventure.
12
Wicked Corner
Grade 24
17m This tough little corner demands more than just bridging. Climb LaWR until you can step R to a large ledge ( recommend belaying from here to prevent long falls due to rope stretch) at the base of the deep corner which Dave Brash climbed to the DBB under the RH side of the W roof in 2001 (grade 21). Good pro with wires and # CD’s 0-3. The pumpy continuation out R through the roof and up the headwall (3B) to finish at chains a couple of metre right of LaWR DBB, finally fell to Jonathon Clearwater in 2006.
13
Unrequited
Grade 25, 22
1. 25m Originally climbed in 2001 as one monster pitch at grade 24, it has become harder and more sustained now that the bear-hug pillar has fallen off. Now it is split into 2 pitches, 1st of which is a gob-smacking endurance counter-pressure test-piece. Starts immediately above the LH group of 3 fixed chains, levitate up the shallow groove past 5B, then natural pro to the DBB.
2. 16m Climb the R facing corner 1B to the peapod with magic knee-bars, and then finish up the off-width crack. This pitch is an essential part of every climber’s education. Take CD’s #1-3.5
14
Via Magma
Grade 22, 23
1. 25m Start at the central fixed chain. Superb sustained climbing, in a steep open groove. Move L at the top to finish this section on the arête and climb a few metres up to the DBB.
2. 15m A hard move gets you into a hand-crack in the left-facing corner (separated from Unrequited's corner by a white lichenous wall). Take a few wires and CD's #1.5-3.0.
15
Killer Wail
Grade 23
26m The curving V corner is stunning all the way, with a killer finish up the arête to the rap chains under the roof. Take a good selection of small-medium wires, plus maybe 1 or 2 CD’s to #1.5.
16
Date with Destiny
Grade 22
31m This has to be up there with the best all natural pro routes you will ever do (discounting the choss band). Weave your way through the 3 cracks, placing multitudes of small-medium wires, if you can hang around long enough. Also take CD’s to #2.5. Fantastic crux right at the top just as it should be.
17
Moped
Grade 18
33m An extended section of poor rock detracts from the otherwise reasonable route. Trend up and R after the 1st chain as you approach on the cliff. Climb up and R again to bridge up the RH of twin 12m corners. Carry on direct or better follow a crack L around the arête 5m up into the corner next door. From the big ledge, finish up the short corner (crux) and step L to DwD’s belay. Al carried on to the summit ridge on the 1st ascent. Take small- medium wires and CD’s #0-3.5.

Showing all routes 66 routes total Time 1 min 150 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 53 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Map%20crag 0Panorama

Calum Hudson did some work here in 1992–93, but it was Steve Carr who almost single-handedly developed this crag in 1997. The crag is currently (as of 2012/13) having a makeover. Many routes are being extended to the tops of the wall - often being aggressively cleaned and retrobolted. Many new sport routes are being opened up. Caution needs to be exercised with some holds as rock that may appear stable can sometimes flake off under pressure. That said, the crag is cleaning up very nicely. Bolts are stainless steel 10 x 75 mm.

Access: At 21 km on the road to Long Beach, turn off left at the ‘Osborne’ sign soon after passing Purakaunui School and descend to Purakaunui Inlet. Drive around the left side of the inlet until the road turns to sand. Brave the soft sand, and if you don’t get bogged a genuine roadside crag will be your reward, 100m inland from Purakaunui Beach and the Mapoutahi Peninsula.

Attribution: Dave Brash

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Whalebone%20slabWhalebone slabs def

1st Crag from left

1
Paul and Pixie’s Sunday Outing
Grade 18
10m Up the slab from the top of the crack.
2
Reality Surfing
Grade 17
10m From the corner step R and up to gain the nice dimpled slab. Quite popular, but a slip at the crux before clipping the first bolt could lead to a nasty pendulum into the corner.
3
Reality Direct
Grade 18
10m Potential for fall onto block on the move before the second bolt.
4
Left Hand of the Whales Back
Grade 16
8m Start at the foot of arete behind detached block.
5
Cheats Wall
Grade 18
8m R from first bolt of LHOTWB.
6
Scapula
Grade 19
8m A good wee climb; tricky moves to nice faceclimbing. Escapable.
7
Off the Shoulder
Grade 17
8m Good moves at the top.
The%20dome

All routes on the Dome by Steve Carr, 1998

8
Take Me Down
Grade 19
5m
9
Mr Blister
Grade 21
6m Over the bulge on small sharp holds.
10
In the Arms of Sleep
Grade 19
6m Avoid bridging the R wall if you’re into ticking grades.
Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
GumpsGumps but tock def

Right of the Dome

-
Monsoon
Grade 18
8 Bolt
22m The dark crack between the two walls
-
Rain Dance
Grade 16
7 Bolt
22m Left side of slab
-
Too Soon
Grade 19
7 Bolt
22m Right side of slab with some interesting moves towards the top
11
Shux
Grade 17
15m Needs another bolt at the bottom. Traverse R along break and up.
12
Shux Variant
Grade 18
15m Through the thin crack.
13
Y Fronts
Grade 17
15m Through the wide crack.
14
Treacherous Fingers
Grade 20
25m Committing layback in an airy setting!
15
Porcine Posterior
Grade 17
25m Unaware that Hudson had climbed this, Steve named this climb Gump’s But-tock. The resemblance to nether regions is obviously striking. The slightly scary crux at 8m can be avoided by stepping L to Treacherous Fingers to give a grade 16 climb with good pro. The wide upper crack swallows big gear.
16
Whistle Stop
Grade 19
30m Steve found evidence of Hudson’s presence on the top section. A shocker.
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
11130187 10153308598510815 7003291425452175853 n

Right of Gumps

Attribution: Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.

1
Blunt Buttress
Grade 23
9 Bolt
30m to the left of 'The Jolly Cobbler'. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!, 9 QDs,
2
Cola Crack
Grade 24
9 Bolt
Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 24. Starts at ground level behind the trees - pull leftwards across the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up to the base of the crackline. Fingerlocks abound up the stunning upper wall with a wide array of fantastic features. Superlative climbing.
3 & 4
The Jolly Cobbler
Grade 18, 20
13 Bolt
1. 15m Step into the crack from the right and up onto the wall of knobs. Steep climbing to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres.
2. 15m Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving left onto a hanging slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner.
5
Fact or Friction
Grade 20
7 Bolt

6
Storming the Palisade
Grade 22
9 Bolt
Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process.
-
Killing Time
Grade 18
6m Up the track from the left to the apex under the main wall where this route begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock, padding easily up the arête to the chains
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Stronghold

The Pinnacle in front of the Main Wall

27
Day of the Triffids
Grade 16
8m Interesting, well protected - do it. Starting from the ferny rock at the front RH corner of the Stronghold, traverse L along the sloping ledge and clip 2 bolts before swinging out onto the solid slab above.
28
Sloth
Grade 17
7m L along the ledge and out onto face. Up arete to horizontal placement. Move L to bolt and up.
29
Contaminant
Grade 17
7m Continue up R from nut placement on Sloth and past bolt.
30
Homecoming Queen
Grade 22
7m A sustained, popular problem up the steep north face.
31
Fools Gold
Grade 14
6m Follow arete after bridging across gap.
32
Spinal Tap
Grade 18
6m Up the centre. Contrived, but nevertheless a bit scary.
33
Bridge to Nowhere
Grade 15
6m Bridge up to ledges and bolt.
Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Main wall 01 0Main wall 02 2

The central line on the Eldorado Wall remains and has been retrobolted to the big ledge where it takes a line up the crack in the wall above (currently a closed project as at April 2013). Fire Walker also starts from ground level on the right hand side of Eldorado Wall.

18
Chronic Confusion
Grade 22
12 Bolt
25m This central line on the Eldorado Wall has been retrobolted, now going to the top of the cliff via a crackline through the upper bulging wall and finishing at the Firewalker belay.
FW
Fire Walker
Grade 19
13 Bolt
25m Starting up what was formerly 'Star Spangled Spanner' on the right hand edge of the Eldorado Wall, this route has been retro bolted on the lower section and now continues to the top of the cliff with the addition of several more bolts making it the longest route on the cliff.
-
New route
Grade 22
8 Bolt
Immediately left of Teardrop Arete at Mapoutahi. Climb the pillar in the corner, move rightwards across the wall, then straight up overhanging terrain to finish on the same lichenous slab as Teardrop Arete. .
-
Teardrop Arete
Grade 18
6 Bolt
20m Located in the centre of the main wall at Mapoutahi. Approach from the left hand end walking under The Jolly Cobbler Wall. Surmount the detached block to reach the first bolt. Swing left at the top onto the white lichenous slab for an engaging finish!!
1
Friggin Hell
Grade 17
3 Bolt
15m All natural pro corner to a DBB at 15m. Good pro. Begins off the top of a pillar in a high corner. Clip two bolts to get the business going. At the top of the corner the old chains have been removed and substituted with a bolt runner. The new ring belay can be found just over the brow of the arête above and to the left.
-
Rebel Without a Clue
Grade 23
Somewhere R of Friggin Hell, starting at the high point of the ground and in the main apex of the cliff is ‘an excellent route’ which goes to the top of the cliff to another waratah belay, now overgrown with gorse. Could do with a DBB.
-
Bush Stream Blues
Grade 19
8 Bolt
Around grade 19: "Scramble up to high ledge immediately right from start of Fire Walker (staple in wall for belay). Head left into the groove and straight up the arête." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151628917090815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
-
EPIRB Virgin
Grade 20
It starts left of Jospe/Carr route and right of BSB: "Delicate, bouldery, off-balance moves from ledge (crux) into corner and leftwards across hanging slab."-Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151650458650815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
-
Jospe/Carr Route
Grade 19
9 Bolt
"The groove immediately above the spike on Golden Showers which was originally climbed by Michelle Jospe, has now been extended to the top of the crag. From the top of the groove step left onto the ledge then up the blunt arête into the rock scar and rock over onto the hanging slab." -Dunedin Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151662931290815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater)
GS
Golden Showers
Grade 17
8 Bolt
20m Superior variant of Kaos. The " 'unprotected L slanting groove.....' - Dave Brash, Dunedin Rock, 2000" - has now been retrobolted. From the wedged spike at the top of the initial corner, launch out right across the void then up the striking golden corner. Power over the bulge on manageable jugginess. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture.
K
Kaos
Grade 19
18m Climb the L slanting groove to the wedged spike. Take a line rightwards under Golden Showers corner and around onto the face. Good steep juggy crux above the last bolt (which is shared with Control, making it an awkward clip for both routes).
C
Control
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt...Control 'has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar.'- Dunedin Climbing Facebook Page
GG2
Greek Gift 2
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Launch onto the rock off the top of the boulder at ground level to the right of 'Control' with a few delicate moves to a ledge. Up the groove until forced out onto the face beneath the bulging arete. A couple of power moves into the crack takes you to the chains. Bolted by Steve, given as a gift to Dave.
-
The Brave and Humble
Grade 24
To the right of GG2: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151662978145815&set=a.209904345814.164211.208069165814&type=1&theater Start as for Greek Gift 2, step right after 1st bolt and climb thin slab, finish straight up the middle where the wall steepens.
HHNF
Hell Hath No Fury....
Grade 18
15m "The R facing corner to DBB" - (Steve Carr, 1997. Grade 14, 7m) Retrobolted in it's upper section (2012). Top section may have been led using pitons for protection by Matt Squires many years ago and had no belay. The top two metres of the (moving) pillar has been removed and now leads into sustained bridging up the corner. Natural pro optional up initial crack.
LaLS
Like a Lover Scorned
Grade 20
20m Good natural pro up the L leaning crack breaking out onto the bulge above and a couple of bolts. Over the bulge onto the ledge then power up the arete above. 6 bolts and a couple of small cams to protect the initial crack.
NR
New route
Grade 17
Up fractured crack to top of pillar then an interesting move onto ledges. Up ledges and into fist crack for a couple of moves. First ascent led using a self-belay device, anchoring the rope to the bull bars on the front of a 4x4 at the base of the crag
U
Undertow
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Heads up a nice water-warn wall.
-
Multi Author Protocol
Grade 21
6 Bolt
A steep and powerful combination on good rock. Start up Undertow until you can step right onto the big sloping ledge at half height. Then climb straight up the steep wall above until you can join Do or Dive at it's last bolt.
-
Do or Dive
Grade 21
7 Bolt
A great route up the steep and solid wall left of Winona's. Climb easily up to the half height ledge, then balance up and right onto the nose. From here, commit to an awesome sequence of crimps, slopers and jugs that diagonals leftwards across the steep upper wall.
-
Alternate Start to WBBB
Grade 16
An alternate start is to traverse right onto route above steep crux at bottom: start from 2 routes to the left to clip bottom bolt, traverse immediately right to next route; climb on this sport route to the obvious weakness to the right. Place small cam (optional) and tenuously traverse right, ending up near 3rd bolt of WBBB. Others have traversed into the route from the route just to the left of WBBB, using a traverse below the 3rd bolt and no gear. You may want a large cam for the final crack at the top of the route, although there are smaller placements lower down.
WBBB
Winona's Big Brown Beaver
Grade 18
20m Pumpy start to reach high and pull through the crux, and then eases off before a slightly steeper finish. Some cams can be placed to protect the top crack, above the last bolt. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151416091355815&set=pb.208069165814.-2207520000.1360495832&type=3&theater
Eof
Eject-o-flap
Grade 20
6 Bolt
20m Some powerful moves with a couple of reachey clips. Sharp holds down low.
A
Arokehe
Grade 19
5 Bolt
Down the right hand end and immediately right of 'Eject-o-flap'. Up to the roof, a devious move right, then good holds to a long reach left before balancing across to the chains.
DS
Dirty Sanchez
Grade 22
5 Bolt
15m Clip the third bolt and enjoy a sustained adventure.
?
?
Grade 17
Use DS rap station on the left. Only one hanger left on the route. Alternate start on left to avoid chossy overhang.
HoaM
Hanging on a Mystery
Grade 21
8 Bolt
15m
EF
Electro-flage
Grade 23
8 Bolt
15m
CF
Chocolate Fondue
Grade 21
6 Bolt
15m Just right to EF, sharing first bolt. Beware potential ground fall before clipping second bolt (very easy climbing though). Short technical brainteaser near the top. Drilled by Steve, gifted to Maud.
17
Twinkle Toes
Grade 18
10m
19
Polaroid Potential
Grade 18
10m
20
Star Spangled Spanner
Grade 20
10m A few nice moves.
21
Sledge Hammer
Grade 16
10m Nasty, slippery rock to the first bolt. Not worth it.
1
Friggin Hell
Grade 0
15m A crackline hidden in a corner in the centre of the wall. Surmount a small pillar at the base of the corner and launch up the crack. A range of cams will see you right.

Showing all routes 30 routes total Time 15 min 520 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 29 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 0 0 - 16
MihiwakaMihiwaka%20topo

Mihiwaka is a gem of a crag, nestled among native bush in a prime position overlooking Careys Bay. It was formed in a later volcanic eruption than Long Beach, and its phonolite provides climbing of a different character to nearby Long Beach’s Kaiwekiti Basalt. Calum Hudson first climbed there in 1972, and returned over the next six years to develop most of the routes, with cameo appearances by another three of the country’s most influential 1970s climbers, Rick McGregor, Murray Jones and Murray Judge. Calum writes:

‘Rumour had it that Mihiwaka was very loose and steep and that one would require a stepladder to start most of the climbs. One day in ’72 myself with Rob Turner, Bryan Laws and Dave Begg decided to investigate, and discovered a hidden treasure. We didn’t climb there that day but carried on to Long Beach. A short while later Bruce Clarke, Russ Mercier and Ken Calder climbed Deep Wide and Frequent and I followed shortly after with Phil Herron and Eugenie Ombler to embark on the longest lead of my life at the time, creating Living in the Past, and then all hell broke loose...’

The only new routes to be climbed in the following 20 years are Luke Newnham’s eliminate Under the Volcano, and Dave Brash’s route on the steep wall and prow left of Top Cat. Unwilling to place the first bolt at Mihiwaka, he stuck his neck out on the unfashionably serious Pasta la Pizza. Call me old-fashioned, but it would be nice if this crag remained a bolt-free monument to the 1970s ‘clean climbing’ movement.

After many years with few visitors, Mihiwaka is justifiably experiencing a minor renaissance. Its easier climbs generally offer better quality and protection for aspiring trad leaders than Long Beach. A rack of medium to large gear with heaps of slings (save some for the manuka tree belays at the top) will see you up most of the climbs. In keeping with the 1970s ambience, this is hex country. Another archaic custom – girdle traverses – are a must at this crag.

Pro is good unless mentioned otherwise in the route descriptions. The top is easy to access from the right side of the crag. The climate is damper, more frigid and exposed than Long Beach, and the east facing crag loses the sun in the afternoon, but it is reasonably protected from south/southwest winds. Northeasterly? Forget it!

Access: The high point of the road to Long Beach sidles around Mihiwaka 17 km from Dunedin. About 300m before the Blueskin Rd turnoff to Waitati, park at the obvious carpark and follow the track uphill from the No. 21 orange culvert marker through beautiful native bush. When in doubt, trend right – many have bush-bashed directly up to the left-hand edge of the crag after missing a bend in the track. The track comes out at Deep, Wide and Frequent. Easy access to the top of the crag is gained to the right.

Attribution: Dave Brash. Plus the following people supplied route information and/or read drafts: Calum Hudson, Steve Carr, Murray Judge, Marcus Thomas, Kevin Donoghue, Mike Simpson, Andy MacDonald, Simon Cox, Al Mark, Andy Milne, Bob Cunninghame and Laurie Kennedy.

1
Jung and the Restless
Grade 15
30m Arete on the far L of the cliff. Finish on L angled crack.
2
Uneasy Rider
Grade 18
30m Great bridging up to the welcome mega-jug. Start at the prominent R facing corner - best belay is at the broadleaf tree 4m above ground level. Pro is a bit sparse at the crux - take small wires.
3
Deliverance
Grade 15
30m From the broadleaf tree, move up the wall diagonally R and finish just left of the arete. Good pro higher up in the interesting creases. Has a direct start at about 17 just left of the real steep country of Photogenic Doubt and Pasta la Pizza.
4
Photogenic Doubt
Grade 20
10m From the pedestal between Deliverance and Top Cat, and just to the R of a deep R facing diagonal corner crack, climb the slightly overhanging wall to the horizontal break under the roof (good pro here), then traverse L to rib (runout) and finish up Deliverance.
5
Pasta la Pizza
Grade 22
30m Steep, technical and serious – the cowardly first ascentionist didn’t lead this until he had it fully wired on top-rope. Great climbing – top-rope it if you don’t want to stick your neck out. Climb Photogenic Doubt to horizontal break, then traverse R. Resisting the overwhelming desire to escape into Top Cat, head L into the ear above the overhang - don’t fall off now! Excellent pro for the rest of the route direct up the steep prow.
6
Top Cat
Grade 14
30m Start up Living in the Past, then move L into R facing corner. Finish at the top of Deliverance (original finish), or move R under the block to join the top of LITP (6a) at about grade 15.
7
Feminist’s Folly
Grade 18
15m The eliminate up the wall between Top Cat and Living in the Past finishes direct up the prominent nose.
8
Living in the Past
Grade 13
30 Bolt Trad
The second route on the crag. The full-on climbing through the bulge onto the big ledge relents to a nice bridging corner. Step L when the corner fades out and scramble a further 8m to belay from manukas. The corner is a drainage line which can take some time to dry out after rain.
9
Devil in the Woods
Grade 18
9m From the block, up short mossy leaning crack to nervously hand traverse L on overhanging ground to Living in the Past.
10
King Crimson
Grade 18
8m Calum’s comment – ‘Is this contrived or what? Can’t actually have any climbing of its own !!’ Start as for the Devil in the Woods, then move R across to Aqualung.
11
Aqualung
Grade 17
30m Arguably the climb of the crag - consistently good climbing to the adrenaline-inducing (though well-protected) crux. The original start goes Comici-style direct to the base of the hanging corner above the Mandrake ramp. A nice alternative is diagonally up R (11a) from the top of the big detached block. After arranging your runners and your head, launch out into the exposed hanging corner above the roof – it’s not all over once you get into it.
12
Cyclops
Grade 16
30m Could be quite good – I can’t remember. This route starts similar to Aqualung, trends L and up wall through diagonal slot under L end of roofs beneath Mandrake (crux) to join Living in the Past, then step R up steep head wall onto ledge of Mandrake to share its finish.
13
Drop out Boogie
Grade 14
30m Across face from Deep Wide and Frequent to Living in the Past.
14
Deep Wide and Frequent
Grade 13
30m A grade 13 that overhangs for 20 metres? An excellent adventure for the grade. Originally started further L, the best start is up the wide crack past the chockstone (as for Mandrake). For the two stars (and better pro), climb diagonally R up the upper wall to finish as for Transmag. Watch out for rope drag on this wandering excursion.
15
Mandrake
Grade 15
40m Hudson – ‘A superlative route !!! My favourite anyway’. Best split into 2 pitches. The left diagonal ramp slashes the main wall at mid height and provides access to the great roof climbs of Aqualung, Bwana Dik, and Bomb Bay.
16
Bomb Bay
Grade 16
10m The fearsome flaring slot is in a brilliant position. From the Mandrake ramp, climb with trepidation through the top roof with wide crack and jugs.
17
Bwana Dik
Grade 19
10m The groove through the roof between Bomb Bay and Aqualung starts from Mandrake ramp. Protect in Bomb Bay, then go for it, a little boldness is required.
18
Under the Volcano
Grade 20
20m Eliminate through bulges between Deep Wide and Frequent and Transmag.
19
Transmagnificantupantransiality
Grade 16, 13
1. 30m You could do this route in one pitch, but then you’d miss out on the great belay ledge. Pitch1 (16) - Start from Deep Wide and Frequent (better) or Stray Cat (19a). Sustained climbing up to and through roof (crux) to a commodious belay ledge.
2. Pitch 2 (13) - Steep start to the easy L leaning ramp.
20
Paraplegic Wall
Grade 18
10m Well, the pro doesn’t look too bad to me, but let’s call it marginal. Climb the wall above Transmag ledge.
21
Stray Cat
Grade 13
28m Follow crack out R of Transmag roof to a few steep wall moves (crux), and a botanical finish.
22
Old Fashioned Way
Grade 10
From here, the routes are mostly damp and heavily mossed up, and are recorded mainly as a historical service.
23
Roots, Shoots and Leaves
Grade 16

24
Furga Burga Wall
Grade 20
‘An excellent, technical, overhanging wall route – worth a star’ - Hudson.
25
Tarby’s Wall
Grade 14

26
Grown So Ugly
Grade 15

27
Elvis Presley Memorial Crack
Grade 0

28
Mosse Fosse
Grade 13

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Fido Meets Lady Jane
Grade 18
A 70’s crag would be incomplete without girdle traverses, so here they are. The high traverse is - Traverses the wall beneath Mandrake between the roofs, down climbs the headwall of Cyclops, traverses the nose of Feminists Folly, crosses the top of Deliverance, hand traverses L and up the finishing corner of Uneasy Rider!!
-
Brown Shoes Don’t Make It
Grade 16
And the low girdle – Climb Mandrake to the ledge above the chockstone at 5m; traverse L, crossing Top Cat at the big flake to join Deliverance at the lower exposed section before crossing slab and groove to Jung and the Restless.

Showing all routes 11 routes total Time 3min 60 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 11 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Pc%20quarry

A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin. The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.

Access: Drive into Port Chalmers from Dunedin. Turn left into Mount Street, then next right into Church Street. Go along Church Street, over the railway crossing and look for the remnants of a quarry, and the Lady Thorn Rhodedendron Dell, on your left.

Attribution: Dave Brash, Andy McDonald

-
Chakrata Wall
Grade 15
4 Bolt
3 or 4 beginner bolted leads approx grade 13 (left) to 15 (right).
Ev
Elevator
Grade 23
3 Bolt
9m A fingery classic. Climb trough to the bolts after a delicate mantle onto the thin ledge.
Rn
Ren
Grade 25
3 Bolt
8m Start well L with thin technical moves up through 2B, then traverse across to the 3rd B.
Sy
Stimpy
Grade 19
3 Bolt
8m Start as far L as you can and head gradually L through 3B, to step R again onto a ledge with a small tree. Climb through the crux into the crux into the rampabove without using the tree or the gully to the L. Contrived??
GE
The Great Escape
Grade 14, 14, 14
20 Bolt
1. 15m Start among the bush in the centre of the bowl. Traverse L along the ramp, negotiate a steep step, then R to a slab past a couple of bolts to bolt belay and tree stump.
2. 15m Climb up a steep arete, then hard L to DBB. Location of DBB on photo topo is about 4m too high.
3. 25m Step L and up through drill hole. Buckets recently chipped into this section to maintain grade consistency. Then tend L to steep headwall which is then turned on the R. Previously grade 18 A0 using side pull on large quarry-era drill hole.
LP
The Tree Little Pigs
Grade 26
3 Bolt
8m Looks impossible. Walk left behind large macrocarpa tree to far end of low overhanging wall. Crank through finger pocks to the arete above. Look for the secret hold out to the left to begin. The ability to perform one arm lock-offs is advantageous.
EB
Easter Blues
Grade 19
6 Bolt
36m Start up groove near macrocarpa, then L side of the prominant arete. Clip 1st, 3rd & 4th bolts of JP.
JP
Jitterbug Perfume
Grade 19
4 Bolt
36m Climb the R side of the arete at its steepest point and move on up to the top of the arete. Manky bolts??
Vg
Verging on the Rediculous
Grade 21
4 Bolt
36m Climb up the drill hole L of the bolt and dyno for a hidden jug above the second bolt. Then as for JP. Surrepititously climbed by Jeremy Strang before Simon did the 1st ascent.
RA
Riotous Assembly
Grade 15
2 Bolt
7m A small corner. DBB at top
IE
Indecent Exposure
Grade 16
1 Bolt
7m Climb face onto arete R of RA.