Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 168 routes total Time 15–60 min 1700 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 101 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 39 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Ice - 26 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+
Alpine - 2 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
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Tukinos generally southeast aspect and the multitude of climbs at low altitude make it a particularly good location for ice climbing on Ruapehu. Lack of easy access has probably been the main reason for the lack of developed rock climbing on the eastern side of Ruapehu. Certainly there is no lack of potential rock, and the crags on this side of Ruapehu are much drier – in fact, almost desert-like. Thus, the need to clean routes is minimised. Some of the advantages of climbing at Tukino is that there is no grass, gorse, moss or lichen on the rock so they never dirty-up. The rock is generally surprisingly solid, but there are sections where there is loose rock. Generally protection is nuts and camming devices but there are often bollards and threads for slings. Bolts are very rarely used (discouraged). Most routes will have excellent belay bollards at the top. Walk-offs are generally fairly easy. Please remember that you are in an alpine area and weather conditions can change at any time, so always keep an eye on the weather.

Access:

Tukino skifield is accessed via a 4WD road from the Desert Road. There is a locked gate 4km before the road end: see Tukino Alpine Sports Club (TASC) website for contact details to get key and road conditions. As of January 2015, the access road was fine for 4WD cars and a couple of 2WD cars made it to and from the NZAC Summer Camp.

Please remember that you are in an alpine area, and the road can be easily blocked by snow at any time of the year. So caution is advised, and keep an eye on the forecast. It's a long way to the nearest vehicle recovery operator who has appropriately equipped vehicles.

Showing all routes 11 routes total Time 20-40 min 1800 m

Ice - 6 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2 3 - 4
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

These cliffs, unsurprisingly, are to the south of the car park, towards the Whangaehu valley.

-
Chandelier
Grade 3
25m Forms fairly regularly, although the ice can be marginal and – as the names suggests – chandeliered. Several options exist. It has a short life so get in early if it is formed.
-
Spoiled Bedsheets
Grade 2
30m Wide gulley right of Chandalier. Up series of rock and ice steps. Early season route before it banks out
-
Central Buttress
Grade 0
60m A good mixed winter route. Two pitches on sound rock, grade 8–10.
-
Southern
Grade 2
20m Straightforward with a steep finish, but quite honestly not that flash.
-
Pilier Français
Grade 0
60m Another good two-pitch mixed line, if anything better than Central Buttress.
-
Camp 2015
Grade 16
20m
-
Barney's Boots
Grade 0
35m Mixed route straight up face a few meters right of 'Camp 2015' overhang. I think more like M3+
-
Right French Pillar
Grade 15
60m
-
Splish Splash
Grade 16
26m Up the wide corner system 5m right of the waterfall. Starts up the flinty-looking slab, going straight up or angling in from the right. Then into the clean left facing corner for a few moves, then stepping right into the main corner system and heading straight up. 5 bolts plus a couple of trad placements - medium wires and cams handy. Take a long sling for a belay bollard a few metres back from the top.
-
Choss Corner
Grade 15
20m About 50m right of "Splish Splash". Up the loose looking weakness. Good placements all the way and the rock is a lot better than it looks. Belay off large boulders at the top.

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 20min 1800 m

P2200109

Obvious looking cliff with buttress pillars direct view from TASC Lodge lounge window

Access: walk along the final bit of ski field vehicle access track then head of south west direction obvious cliff infront of you

French Buttress
Scramble eggs
Grade 12
60m The obvious left buttress before heading up to Tacsmaster wall. Climb the scramble egg choss pile of rock 4 bolts not as loose as it sounds first part is climbing on giagantic jugs and ledges. mid way is over easy scrambling terain top head wall has two bolts rest on good pro and a nice bollard for top belay. This is a awsome first lead and is a rope stretching 60m climb

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 15 min 1700 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Tukino waterfall crag

The crag can be clearly seen from the end of the Tukino ski field road. The routes are to each side of the waterfall, described left to right.

1
Real Groovy
Grade 17
25m Natural pro. Led on sight.
2
Groove Armada
Grade 20
25m Natural pro. Led on sight.
3
Pinus Contortion
Grade 23, 22
13 Bolt
1. 20m A steep wall. Double bolt belay.
2. 20m The overhanging groove above. Double bolt belay.
-
The Interview
Grade 17
7 Bolt
26m On the right hand side of the crag. Climb a small pillar to the right of the large cave, a delicate step right, then up the wall which eventually eases back to easy slabs and a double bolt anchor placed well back.
-
Boulder-Dash
Grade 10
50m Climb the arete right of 'The Interview' from the bottom to the top, keeping to the arete as much as possible. An excellent route to learn leading on trad.

Showing all routes 12 routes total Time 20 min 1700 m

Ice - 11 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2 3 - 4 5+
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 16 0 - 16
Norther%20bluffs%20stitch

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

Access: Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.

-
Gully One
Grade 2
20m The left-hand line.
-
Gully Two
Grade 2
20m Another line just to the right.
-
Gully Three
Grade 2
20m Climb the right end of the wall, just before the cliff-line lengthens.
-
Left Gully
Grade 2
50m A steep initial section opens into a basin and a bouldery headwall. Holds ice well, although this can't be seen from the road.
-
Bowel Wobbler
Grade 4
50m More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground.
-
Southern Buttress of Northern Bluffs
Grade 16
40m
-
Irish Ice Express
Grade 2
Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above.
-
Unclimbed Ice Project
Grade 6
50m This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess
-
Gully One
Grade 1
20m left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short
-
Point Nine
Grade 0, 0
1. 30m Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground
2. 30m Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields.
-
West of South Buttress
Grade 0
40m Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place
-
Point Eight
Grade 0, 0
1. 45m Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay
2. 35m Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest.

Showing all routes 42 routes total Time 1 hr 1700 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 35 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Mangatoetoenui gorge

The upper Mangatoetoenui valley has a remote, rugged character, dominated by the peak of Te Heu Heu. Two lines of bluffs exist on the true right of the river. The upper tier is steeper, very compact and brittle-looking. The lower series, which (counter-intuitively) runs further up the valley, is somewhat similar in composition to Whakapapa Gorge: reddish in colour, iron-hard and with good natural protection. There is scope for many more routes, mostly at moderate grades.

Access: A waterfall makes direct access from below difficult; the best route in is via Tukino skifield. From a point about half way up the top rope tow, turn right (north) and up across the broad ridge. Pick a route down into the upper valley; be aware that a line of cliffs can cause problems. There are cairns on some alternative routes depending on which wall you are heading for and the access points to descent gullies and ledges are cairned.

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 30 minutes 1800 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Rehab%20rock%20topo 1Rehab%20wall%205

This section of the Mangatoetoenui bluffs is about 200m upstream of the gorge wall containing "Blue Eyes White Dragon", on the same (southern) side of the valley. It's a distinctive smooth wall with a platy patina, similar in appearance to Whakapapa Gorge. Two gullies just upstream of the wall allow foot access between the bottom and the top of the crag. All natural gear and anchors, befitting this pristine location. Take slings for top anchors.

Access: See general description for Mangatoetoenui Gorge.

Attribution: Francis Garrity

1
Walking the Drill
Grade 16
20m Dogleg crack at left hand end of the crag. Steep start then easier at the top. Midsize cams and wires, trad belay.
2
316 Trad
Grade 19
5 Bolt
20m Climb face on small ledges past two bolts. Pull through small roof then proceed to top on big jugs. Double bolt belay.
3
Low Ball Excursion
Grade 16
40m Start just right of '316 Trad'. Follow thesweeping arch to the rap station. All on Trad gear, small- medium and take plenty of slings for bollards.
4
Iaso
Grade 18
20m The smooth wall just left of The Strassburg Effect. Bouldery moves through the obvious shallow pod at ~3m (crux), then up the wall, stepping left onto the hanging face to finish. Medium wires especially handy in the lower section.
5
The Strassburg Effect
Grade 14
22m Straight up the obvious crack system to the high point of the crag. A small roof at the end adds spice. Excellent pro. Very pleasant.
6
Going Straight
Grade 16
25m Crack to the right of 'The Strassburg Effect' that joins it at half height. Leave the crack as it bends left and finish directly up through the overhang just left of a bushy ledge.
7
Resolution
Grade 15
20m ZigZag crack through overlap. Climb on to rap station and bollards to belay.
8
Slingky Malinky
Grade 14
20m Start at same place as 'Resolution'. climb right to first spike runner. Follow the spikes and bollards to the rap station. The challenge is to do it entirely on slings.
9
Sweet Sixteen
Grade 16
20m Hard start under the overhang. Then climb up through the overlap supplementing the bolts if you wish/can. Finish at rap station.
12
Do It Again
Grade 14
25m Follow the bolts and supplement with trad. Belay on bollards at the top.
13
I'm Happy
Grade 14
25m Follow the second line of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' Belay at top.
14
Narrow Way
Grade 14
25m 3rd set of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' climbing a pillar at first. supplement bolts with trad. Belay at top.
15
Whatever
Grade 15
25m Shares hardish start with the next climb. follow the bolts up to bollards at the top.
16
The First Step
Grade 14
25m The first step is hard, the rest is straightforward, up to the buttress to the right and climb this on the left. Belay off bollards at top.

Showing all routes 18 routes total Time 30 minutes 1800 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 14 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Crag%202%20 %20bowie rickman%20slab%201 01 01Crag%202%20 %20bowie rickman%20slabs%2022 01 01Bowie rickman%20slabs%20accessBowie rickman%20slabs%20lowerBowie rickman%20slabs%20upperrh

About 100m up valley from Rehab Wall is the Lower Slab and about 50m further is the Upper Slab. Routes are 20m to 40m high on steep slabs with small features (bigger features on the lower slab). Belays are all at the top of each crag on bollards and boulders. The upper slab is too long to rap on double ropes.

Access: As descending ridge towards rehab wall turn left and descend yellow gravel slope and cross direct to top of crag. There is a descent ledge cairned leading above the lower slab and finishing at the base of the upper slab. See photo.

-
?
Grade 10
25m Richard soloed a diagonal traverse from left of the start of 'Golden Years' rising to finish above Philip's Project near the middle of the crag.
1L
Golden Years
Grade 15
20m Near the left of the lower slab climb off triangular plate and trend left up towards a headwall(crux). An alternative finish is to turn the headwall on the left which looks steep but is juggy and protectable. Small cams and mid to large sized wires. belay off bollards around top out gully or climb out of gully to big ledge.
2L
project
Grade 0

3L
Scary Monster
Grade 15
20m climb up the right hand prow just left of "Ugly"
4L
Ugly
Grade 14
20m
1
Mortons
Grade 14
35m Line starts just left of the main upper slab past two bolts then through a juggy overhang. Continue up the slabby rock above to bollards at the top.
2
New Shoe Blues
Grade 14
35m Start under the outcrop at the left of the slab and climb the line of bolts passing left of the outcrop. Belay off bollards at the top.
3
Can You Hear Me Major Tom
Grade 15
35m The line following the slab right through to the top. Four well spaced bolts followed by some trad gear for the top third. Wires and small cams, hexes.
4
Heroes
Grade 17
35m Climb past the one bolt towards an irregular hole. Continue to left of platy section till you find a big spike on a ledge. Big runout from here up the white slab to the low point of the overlap (microcams). Above this there is a 3 camalot placement(or equivalent) and a 5 to 6 size hex placement to protect the easy finish.
5
Just For One Day
Grade 18
35m crux is passing the first bolt. Climb up past pockets which take good small cam placements. From plates at mid height climb to second bolt and on up through the steep country above , stepping right to pass the overhangs.
6
Potions Master
Grade 17
35m follow the line of bolts up the white streak. Finish on trad through the steep stuff left of a prominent offwidth crack.
7
Will You Still Love Me
Grade 17
8 Bolt
35m Climb the plates and features just right of 'Potions Master'. Climb the overhang (staunch) and continue to top through the second overlap.
8
Station to Station
Grade 17
7 Bolt
35m Follow the set of bolts just left of 'Slab Happy'. Climb to top, take some slings for bollards and spikes on the last (easy) moves. Bollards at top to belay.
9
Slab Happy
Grade 17
8 Bolt
35m Climb the set of bolts below a prominent flake. 7 bolts on the slab and one beside the flake. Finish up a little left with protection slinging bollards. Belay at top on boulders/ Bollards.
10
Lets Dance
Grade 17
35m Starts 2m right of 'Slab Happy' following a series of incuts and flakes to the headwall with nice juggy holds. Crux between bolt 3 and bolt 4.
11
Space Oddity
Grade 16
35m Next line of bolts from 'Lets Dance'. Finishes up steep headwall on a nice staircase. Finish up second headwall.
12
Ziggy Stardust
Grade 16
35m Start at the end of the slab, climb up to headwall/bulge, climb through small slab above to the top, scrambling towards the top of 'Space Oddity'.
13
Shuffle Shoes
Grade 16
50m Traverse of entire Upper Bowie Rickman Slab. Start up 'Ziggy Stardust' bolts then follow the obvious line of weakness across the crag. Use bolts from various climbs you cross and some trad needed at end.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 30-40mins 1800 m

Upper%20tier%20of%20mangatoetoenui%20gorge%20the%20wall%20of%20dragonsWall%20of%20dragons version 4

This is the upper tier cliff line in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. It runs above the White Dragon Wall, broken by an access ledge running the entire base of the cliff and which runs up to a gradual access gully to the top, west end of the cliff. Rock is brittle and loose in places but very solid with good gear in the obvious lines of weaknesses.

Access: As for the rest of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge either down in the head of the valley or the access gully west of the Rehab wall or 150m to east and down the access gully on to mid tier ledge system. Both of these gully acess points have been marked with stone cairns.

1
Afternoon Tea
Grade 21, 18
1. 40m Start 3-4m left of Morning Glory, angle left-ish up between bulges to a roof, step left then up (crux) through bulges and up onto ledge, head up big left corner crack and directly through roof to find belay on edge of central buttress
2. 15m Drop into gully behind the buttress and directly up headwall just to the right of water line & belay off boulders a few meters back from top, alternatively scramble further up gully to join Morning Glory under the chock-stone
2
Morning Glory
Grade 16, 18
1. 45m This is the first climb to link through from the white dragon wall to the cliff top, climb done onsite. This climbs the right side of the main obvious central buttress. Start 6-7m left of the top of Blue eyes white dragon climb this can be done as your 1st pitch. The climb offers a big wall atmosphere, it follows a chimney system of large cracks, flakes and chock stones. Good gear take at least two large pieces 4,5 camalot size, plenty of hex placments. Belay at behind the top of central buttress below a large chock stone wedge between the headwall and the gendarme pillar of rock which is the top of central buttress.
2. 15m Climb on to the chock stone. At this point your can detour and stand ontop of the free standing pillar yahoo! Then climb rightward over a convexed curved flake gear here is thin, small stacked wires back of horizontal flake move right and take second gully exit up steep but good placements mid size gear at this point. Belay off two huge boulders set 4m back from top.
3
Brunch
Grade 17
45m Start at the top of Blue eyes white dragon, head straight up the crack system towards a dark recess, when the crack thins out head out right onto steeper terrain then up into the recess, exiting to the left and up the final steep wall before an easy scramble to find an anchor boulder [SM cams + wires].

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 30 min 1700 m

White%20dragon%20wall%201 0

The lower tier of cliffs along the south side of the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. This good-looking crag is in a spectacular location close to the river, where a rounded shelf rises out of a narrow gorge and then up to form a steep wall.

Access: Once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge head down the true right of the stream.

1
White Gentian
Grade 17
25m Just left of ' Blue Eyes White Dragon'. Climb the central crack system up the wall. Start just left of the thin crack at the bottom to keep the grade at about 16-17. Direct start will probably be 19-20. (Place some wires in the crack first) Gear - double set of cams, hexes, wires, some microcams. Belay just below the top where 2 x #4 cams fit big cracks (otherwise climb back to the upper tier for anchors)
2
Blue Eyes White Dragon
Grade 16
20m A nice line just to the right of the obvious central weakness in the crag. Head straight up over a series of small bulges, with the largest right at the top. Well protected.
3
Tooth Decay
Grade 16
7 Bolt
25m Line of bolts several metres right of 'Blue Eyes White Dragon' Double Bolt anchors at top.
4
Deception
Grade 19
6 Bolt
25m Meander up the bolts near the right end of the White Dragon Wall. Cruxes at half height and at the top. Double bolt anchor at top.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 30 min

Onsight%20wall

Just up stream from White Dragon Wall, past the access point to the ledge system between the upper and lower tiers.

Access: Walk down valley once in the Mangatoetoenui Gorge. If you find the right stream you can descend the ledge system past the top of this crag to the access point to the base of the cliffs, then walk upstream a few metres.

1
Snotgobler
Grade 15
15m Climb the left hand of two crack systems up to the arete and then a little along the arete. Trad belay from blocks on top of climb.
2
Purple Rain
Grade 16
15m Climb the second crack from the left leading to an overhanging crack(good for pro) which is passed to the left. Then climb right an finish up grooves above to the top of the wall . Trad belay.
3
Jake's Rake
Grade 10
Follow the left trending ledge topping out near the top of the Onsight Wall.

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 15 min 1560 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 24 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+

The smooth andesite walls of this crag offer the connoisseur of technical, sequence-based climbing the promise of a rewarding day at the crag, in a wild mountain location. The wall was discovered on an expedition by Kristen Foley, John Palmer and Dan Pringle in the late summer of 2010. Routes began springing up immediately as the Wellingtonians were keen to have more quality route climbing closer to home. Although the routes are all bolted, this is definitely not a consumer crag. But some will find the extreme and isolated location only adds to the experience.

Access: From the Tukino Alpine Sports Club lodge, walk south-east down the ridgeline below the hut. After 10 minutes or so the cliff should be visible down to your right, in the valley and across the Whangaehu River. Drift right down the slope into the gorge and cross the river with caution above the waterfall. From here, follow a spine of rock down to where it leads below the cliff.

1
Himawari
Grade 23
7 Bolt
14m Start below the roof and climb slightly right over the lip and up the face above. Once you've reached the corner stay left and charge up the blank-looking face via a tricky finishing crux sequence. If the start is wet, starting up Komakino is a good option and doesn't change the grade.
2
Komakino
Grade 23
8 Bolt
14m A brilliant route, robbed of its third star only by the loose rock around the opening section. Start up the corner below the large roof and drift left on the polished face and avoiding going too high to the loose rock. Then head up the arête via superlative technical climbing. For the full value experience stay on the arête all the way.
3
Harakiri
Grade 22
7 Bolt
13m Start as per Komakino, but at the fourth bolt climb right to the groove and then stem your way to the anchor.
4
Fire on the Mountain
Grade 19
7 Bolt
17m
5
Route de la Slack
Grade 23
10 Bolt
20m Steep and pumpy.
6
How Soon Is Now?
Grade 24
8 Bolt
20m
7
Ritual de la Habitual
Grade 23
8 Bolt
20m
8
Bloc Party
Grade 26
6 Bolt
12m
9
Shoegaze
Grade 27
22m
10
File Under Easy Listening
Grade 24
9 Bolt
22m Long and devious.
11
Copper Blue
Grade 26
6 Bolt
17m
12
The Jean-Paul Satre Experience
Grade 28
7 Bolt
18m An immaculate just-enough-holds hanging arête.
13
Bleeding Star
Grade 27
6 Bolt
17m
-
Pump up the Jam
Grade 18

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 10-15 mins 1750 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Ice - 2 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 2 0 - 16
P4230436

Above the large prominent waterfall near the upper ski tow. Routes developed during the NZAC Summer Climbing Camp 2015.

Access: From TASC Lodge, scramble up to ski field upper tow shed buliding and siddle to the waterfall (10-15 mins.)

-
Dimrill Stairs
Grade 16
15m
-
Waterfall Route 2.0
Grade 12
40m
-
Waterfall Route 6.0
Grade 12
30m
Caving !
Lava Cave Dimrill Stairs (It has another historical name which I try to find)
Grade 2
10m
-
New Friends
Grade 15
15m
-
The Ozzie Sheila Rocker
Grade 16
15m
-
Icy Stairs - Left
Grade 2
40m Climb the ice to the left of the stream. Steep finish on free standing icicle. Best tackled early in season before snow accumulates
-
Icy Stairs - Right
Grade 2
40m Right side of waterfall. Best climbed early in season before snow accumulates. Takes steep corner on top section of falls.

Showing all routes 24 routes total Time 15–20 min 1800 m

Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Alpine - 2 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
Tasc%201%20and%202 01Tascmaster 2%20wall rhFireandice18Tascmastertopo

The long wall further south from the Southern Bluffs and buttresses visible from the TASC Lodge. As a result of lava flows cooling on contact with ice, the crag has horizontal columns and blocks in the steep orange rock of the Fire and Ice area. Explored extensively during the NZAC Summer Camp at TASC January 2015 by the Garrity family and others. Offers full-pitch, moderate trad routes at either end of the crag on blocky ground, and a couple of bolted lines in the middle. With scope for more routes with some appealing lines on the steeper, smooth orange rock, this crag promises to be a nice lower-grade complement to the Wall of Sound. Boulders on top allow anchors to be built back from the edge (long slings or old ropes) but be aware of kicking scree and rocks on those below.

Access: From the TASC Lodge, walk around the base of the Southern Bluffs.

1
Captain Barnacle Bottom's day off
Grade 14
25m groove 1m left of 'Fast'
2
Fast
Grade 17
25m Prominent Groove near left end of crag. Label at base.
3
Mossy Groove
Grade 15
25m Mossy groove 2m right of 'Fast'
4
Climb on John
Grade 16
25m Square backed groove 6m right of 'Fast'
5
Old Man's Climb
Grade 16
25m groove left of 'Slow' and keeps direct rather than veering to left.
6
Slow
Grade 14
25m Groove just left of prominent arete. Label on bottom.
7
Stayin Alive
Grade 16
25m
8
My Father's Friends
Grade 16
25m 4m right of 'Slow' up corner with prominent zigzag crack. Finish up to right on steeper ground.
11
Captain Hook
Grade 0
25m 4m to the left of "Pleasant Thrutching". Follow obvious crack up to over hanging block. Some hard hooking moves to pull through this (crux) into pod, then more hard moves up onto snow. Finish at top of bluffs with large boulder to belay off. The 1st ascentionist took a fall at the crux before completing the move clean.
12
Pleasant Thrutching
Grade 18
20m Up corner to semi detached block. Head up and left past vegetation avoiding steep arete.. Under cling crack and move up and left into groove (crux). Step right and up to belay on large block. Easy scrambling for 5m from here to the top.
13
The Comeback Kid
Grade 0
20m 2m right of "Pleasant Thrutching" Steep start (crux) then head up into easier angled grooved. Head right of steep arete to finish at same belay as "Pleasant
14
Modern Arrangement
Grade 18
15m Teeter up alcove to reach jug then swing up and through crux (in-situ #1 wire) before following gear placements up and left, then back right to the upper ledge and shared two-ring anchor. (Small wires and small / mid cams). Cleaned and thin gear placed on abseil.
15
TASCbar
Grade 19
6 Bolt
15m Bouldery start, truck through to ledge, clip top bolt and climb over it. No cheating left through the groove! Shared two-ring anchor.
16
Fire and Ice
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Swing up steep groove to small ledge, then left to the arete and up. Move right to two-ring anchor.
17
Funbeat
Grade 15
3 Bolt
20m Climbs the featured rock about 20m right of Fire and Ice. Three bolts plus gear to Camalot 3 or Friend 3.5.
18
Kingdom of the wicked
Grade 15
25m Start 6m right of 'Funbeat" and head left, up towards high point left of shallow groove.
19
Doom
Grade 15
25m Straight up to overhanging finish from right hand end of top of talus.
20
To the moon for the Kennedys
Grade 14
25m Start from same place as 'Doom' and follow line up to right towards block with hand crack near top.
21
An Alpine Adventure
Grade 16
25m Place wire then hard move off the ground (crux) up onto ledge. Follow cracks (watch out for loose blocks) into small offwidth. Mantle onto ledge then climb up arete and corner to top. Belay using blocks at top.
22
A Little Frisky
Grade 18
30m Arete and crack system 10m left of Flake crack. Climb arête on 2 bolts (3rd optional,not used on first ascent) then up crack system on wires and cams. Easy climbing on top section.
23
One Step To The Left And One To The Right
Grade 19
35m The face crack 8m left of 'flake crack'. Steep start but a big flake makes climbing possible. Continue up crack through overhanging section. Step left then move back right. Then through second overhanging section (crux) stem and bridge the groove. Easy climbing to the top on bigger gear. Great line.
24
Flake Crack
Grade 19
30m about 20m down to right of 'Doom' prominent flake above a wall with a bolt. Finish up a little left once on the easier ground.
25
Hat Trick
Grade 18
35m Left facing corner just right of 'Flake Crack'. Start in small corner , wires for pro. From ledge move int the corner proper, clip bolt and climb ledge system and corner. Once past the 2nd bolt continue up corner on trad (cams and wires). At the top of the corner pull over block and step right. Easy ground to the top.
26
Quick March
Grade 20
35m The overhanging corner system 4m right of “Hat Trick”. Climb low angle ramp , clip 1st bolt then climb steep head wall left of corner. A good cam (2.5 friend) can be placed in left facing crack. Lay off crack and bridge corner to the 2nd bolt (crux). Once past 2nd bolt climb low angle corner to top all on trad gear. Trad belay.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 1850 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

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The very prominate circ that can be seen from the carpart. This crag has the most acessable ice climbing in the country in June & July. THe circ is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious Rock and Ice climbers.

Access: Best access is to ascent the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangio (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Maragert's landing gully.

-
Spritz
Grade 16
60m
-
Wright/Hiscoke/French
Grade 18
50m
-
The Curtain
Grade 2
50m This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed.
-
The Shroud
Grade 0

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 15 minutes

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This is the stream system draining Margaret's Leap. During winter it fills with snow, but come the thaw a large amount of high quality rock is exposed, particularly on the northern side. There is much potentual for realatively easy two pitch routes on very sound rock. Plenty of natural and trad protection options.

Access: Best approached by traversing south under Tascmaster wall into the gully. There is a little bit os easy scrambling to get into the gully properly.

1
... of Troy
Grade 16
70m
0
Marg Arete
Grade 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 0
1. 40m Start just left of the waterfall. Up slabs tending right to the crest, then follow
2. 40m Continue to follow arete to "pass" the gives you good access to "Master Angus Wall"
3. 40m A little steeper now on cleaner rock. You have a chevel option, or just traverse on leges to the south.
4. 40m Continue on the arete. Exposure increases slightly. Pitch finishes at the notch before the final pinnacle
5. 30m Choose your route through the steep exit wall of the notch dependent upon your skills. Follow the rib upto the top of the pinnacle.
6. Descent can be done by abseil of the top to the pinnacle on the uphill side (or to the north if you want a bigger abseil). Can scramble down easily enough. Best descent down the mountain is on the broken ground/slabs to the north or the arete.

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 3 minutes from Dimril Stair 1750 m

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Located on a small sheltered plateau on a terrace north of Dimril Stair. The crag as the name implies is small, but visitors will be rewarded with high quality compact rock. The crag has a easy walk off with excellent bollards on top for anchors

Access: from Dimril stairs skirt and climb around the bluffs to the right (climbers)

1
Milk Bottle Route
Grade 16
6m
2
Un attempted
Grade 0

3
Unamed #1
Grade 15
5m
4
Unnamed #2
Grade 10
5m

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 15 minutes 1800 m

Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16
Ice - 2 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2
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This is a series of crags with a SE aspect above ant tot he north or the Aorangi ski tow area. It has a number of buttresses and small roofs. The rock is variable with layered fractured sections. Some good hunting (and maybe some cleaning) will reveal a number of routes. Eric Duggan and Iain Burgon did 4 routes in this area in April 2015

-
Icy Shirt Front
Grade 2
30m Iced area the forms regularly
-
Caitlyn's Quim
Grade 2
30m rising traverse, L-R finishing up rock/ mixed terrain. Similiar line possibly climbed previously.
-
Tukino Split
Grade 16
15m On the tier above "Dimrill stairs" towards left end of "Shirt Front " bluffs. Ascends the corner and up the obvious splitter crack placing #3, #3.5, and #4 cams. Then easy moves to top where you can belay off boulders.
-
Tukino Squeeze
Grade 15
14m At the far right end of the "Shirt Front" cliffs is an obvious offwidth starting off a debris strewn ledge. Easy moves off the ground then a hard move to get established in the offwidth. Can thread the chockstone and place large cams in the back of the crack. Sling a chockstone at the top of the off width and an exposed move out onto easy ground and belay on boulders. Watch out for loose blocks at the top. Walk off to your left down a scree slope.
-
Aorangi Direct
Grade 16
15m In between "Tukino Split" and "Tukino Squeeze". Easy moves onto a ledge then a hard move up a crack to a overhanging wall. Head up to the right and belay off boulders. Walk off to your right.
-
Flake Route
Grade 14
20m Left of Aorangi Direct. Sparse wires at the start but up flakes and a good holds to cam placements and good wires higher up. Easy moves to top out over slightly overhanging rock. Belay off boulders again. Walk off to your left.

Showing all routes 9 routes total Time 15 minutes 1750 m

Trad - 9 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 17 - 21
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This is a lovely small sheltered crag with a northern aspect. It is located in the base of the Margaret's Landing stream on the southern side. The rock is compact and offers a number of short routes of a range of grades under 20. Walk of is easy, either dropping down a short gully to the east or traversing down the route (cairned) through the bluff to the upper (western) side. About 10 routes were pioneered here in April 2105

Access: Traverse under the Tascmaster wall to a point where you overlook the Margeret's landing stream. Then traverse into the stream dropping slightly to the right. The excellent wall is on the southern side. The route can be a easy scramble.

1
Iain's Climb
Grade 14
12m
2
Don's Climb
Grade 14
12m
3
The Jog Along Route
Grade 19
12m Okay moves with good cam placements. Then a hard move up to a finger crack that takes micro cams. Then a hard move (crux) past this to top out to the right.
4
Don's Climb #2
Grade 15
14m
6
Iain's Climb #2
Grade 15
14m
5
MIke Feeney Direct
Grade 15
16m Easy moves then climb through bulge on its left hand side and finish up steep overhanging rock on fantastic jugs. There is a natural thread for protection here. The route tops out at the highest point of the wall.
7
Bett's Climb
Grade 7
12m
8
The Puny Route
Grade 7
12m Follow the easy crack on good gear.
9
Nish's Climb
Grade 7
12m

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 10 minutes 1700 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

The gorge level with the bottom of the lower ski tow. Basically the walls with a SE aspect

Access: From the lower tow shed break a traverse line directly into the gorge keeping close to the base of the bluff. Warning, steep and loose ground, particularly during summer

-
Blue Ice
Grade 3
50m Left waterfall draining the terrace above.
-
Lucy's Diamonds
Grade 2, 3
1. 25m Two pitch route - right waterfall draining terrace able. Climb lower section to belay before top steeper section
2. 25m climb top steeper section
-
Acid Trip
Grade 4
50m Sustained looking climb from base of gorge

Showing all routes 1 route total Time 10mins 1652 m

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Childs Buttress is the First buttress in the DA Outcrop

Access: 10 min walk from lodges in a north easterly direction dropping down into the stream from the waterfall crag.

Childs Buttress
Stacking Dominoes
Grade 16
9m start up the obvious fist crack to half way ledge with the stacked pile of rocks move right and up the broken crack line on top head wall. mid to large gear

Showing all routes 23 routes total Time 10 min 1620 m

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Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 11 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
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This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley. There are trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead. Discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

Access: Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut, depending on how big your load is). Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag. Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end.

1
Death of a Ladies Man
Grade 13
12m The left most crack, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.
2
Arlo's Crack
Grade 12
12m Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up immaculate rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right to the big boulder.
3
Right on
Grade 16
16m Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top.
4
Up To You
Grade 21
4 Bolt
10m Staunch overhanging climb joining the top of Right on.
5
A Street
Grade 13
8m Climb the wall and cracks 4m right of the access route.
6
First we take Manhattan
Grade 16
8m Climb the staunch crack to start then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.
7
Ledge in Time
Grade 15
4 Bolt
14m Follow the bolts 4m right of First we take Manhattan. Steep finish.
8
Nuts and Bolt
Grade 15
14m 2m right of Ledge in Time. Trad after the first bolt.
9
Playtime
Grade 15
4 Bolt
16m 3m right of Nuts and Bolt.
10
Broke again
Grade 15
4 Bolt
16m 4m right of Playtime. Hard start.
11
Don't Go Home With Your Hard On
Grade 18
5 Bolt
18m 15m right of Broke again. Follow 5 bolts up a rounded arete. Finish up to the right.
12
True Love Leaves No Traces
Grade 17
18m Climb the corners up to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.
13
project
Grade 0
line 4m right of True love... up to the left groove at the top.
14
Blue Telescope
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m 12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces
15
Osteoarthritis
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m 5m right of Blue Telescope finishing in about the same place.
16
Keep Off The Grass
Grade 16
20m 5m right of Osteoarthritis. Climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.
17
Fingerprints
Grade 18
20m 2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past bolt (crux) and finish up headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.
18
project
Grade 0
3m right of Fingerprints.
19
You Want It Darker
Grade 18
20m The obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the butress. Finish up right of top block.
20
It's Alright Ma ( I'm only bolting)
Grade 17
7 Bolt
20m Climb the groove and face just right of You Want it Darker.
21
Don't Tell Mother
Grade 20
20m Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. Climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.
22
Iodine
Grade 17
15m The obvious offwidth to the right of Don't Tell Mother. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.
23
Tukino Time
Grade 15
4 Bolt
15m Climb the corner 6m right of Iodine.