Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro 0Paradisel

Large area of low angle rock, around 30m high. The story behind Paradise: In mid 2014 Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington applied for funding from Sport NZ. Every second year grants are given out to New Zealanders doing innovative adventures around the globe. Perhaps due to a serious lack of applications Sport NZ awarded the pair a grant for route development at Bullock Creek. Warrington and Silverwood had promised to put up 30 routes in 30 days, complete a guide book, and name their first born 'Sport NZ'. Paradise Bivy was used as advanced base camp and almost all the routes at this crag were created during January 2015. Exhaustion, rain and frustration with living in the dirt slowed progress to a crawl and by half way through the month they only had 10 climbs completed. A post on social media promising free bolts, food and a can of double brown brought in reinforcements in the form of a few more keen route developers. On day 29 of the trip the 30th climb went up. The final tally for the month was 33 new climbs (37 pitches).

Access: Park at 1.9km down Bullock Creek Road from SH6 on one of the several grassy parking spots on the right-hand side. Walk 60m further along the road from the last parking spot looking for a marked track leading down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow the trail uphill for 20 minutes before turning upriver underneath the cliffs. Access to the Cuckoo's Nest, is by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline. Follow the goat trail along, dipping back into the bush occasionally to a spacious bivy cave. The Climbs from " Little Timmy the Guzzberry" to " Just Another Day" are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro

To the left or up stream from the Main Paradise Wall (Left Wall)

Access: Follow the marked trail beyond the bivy along the base of the cliff for 5 minutes until you duck under a large tree to arrive at the base of High Contrast.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
High Contrast
Grade 21
7 Bolt
24m Like driving a motorbike over Arthur's Pass: lots of cruising with some scary bits in between. Starts on the little podium on the very left of the wall and remember to ignore TomTom's bolts just to the right and continue straight up to a desperate finish.
-
TomTom
Grade 21
10 Bolt
29m Someone forgot to tell these boys they're not in The Cave anymore. A fine link up nonetheless encompassing the more exciting parts of both routes. Starts up the first 3 bolts of The Irony then meanders left to finish up High Contrast.
-
The Irony
Grade 20
10 Bolt
28m Climb the clean crème brûlée through some reachy moves to the crack where the climbing mellows. For extra fun stay on the pillar right of the crack. Extending the last runner will help with rope drag if top roping.
-
Room With a View
Grade 21
11 Bolt
28m Friendly-as for those looking to push their White Wall experience. Use the first 2 bolts of The Irony (sling the 2nd) before heading off right for some absolutely elegant climbing. Join back up with Irony after pulling over the last bulge.
-
House of Cards
Grade 19, 18
12 Bolt
1. 15m The handholds don't get much better than is … good thing because it's pretty rumpy pumpy
2. 15m The climbing mellows, but the fun doesn't. Weave your way up the line of bolts to a hidden belay on a small ledge to the right.
-
Thirty One.
Grade 17, 18
17 Bolt
1. 10m Short little pitch to get the ball rolling, climb up the flowstone and veer off left to the belay on a small ledge
2. 30m The meat and potatoes pitch, you probably won't have room for dessert after this one, follow the line of bolts consciously trying to avoid bridging on the loose looking rock behind you as much as possible.
-
Don't Tell Mum
Grade 22
5 Bolt
13m Nice little boulder problem. Starts up a slab that turns into an overhanging pillar at half height. Well worth a stop for a few minutes to sort out the sequence on the upper part of the route.

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 20 mins 100 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paradiser

The wall to the right side of the main crag and bivy.

Access: All of the following climbs between the campsite bivy and the next sandy overhang to the right are accessed via the grass slope from the right. The climbs between PB & Blimp Redemption all start up PB, the wide crack just left of the sandy overhang.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Smigglepuss
Grade 19
21m Hidden up in the trees just after jumping over the small ditch. Start off the tree and jump into the crack (literally if you wish) and work your way up this thrutchy line and smiggle your way into the slightly overhanging off-width section protected by 2 bolts. Gear to #3 Camalot.
2
Specist
Grade 25
26m Climb Smigglepuss to the ledge, whacking in a bunch of dirty ol' cams then put on your sport booties and dance out onto the right face. Techy and crimpy with a dramatic finish.Troy gives it 8 out of 3 stars and says 'soft 25' which translates to a pretty good grade 26 for the rest of us. Only needs a handful of cams #.75 – 3.
3
PB
Grade 16
2 Bolt
12m Debated whether it stands for 'peanut butter' or 'pointless but necessary', a dirty little pitch up the jug infested crack below the rata tree that gives access to the following climbs on the ledge above.
4
Teardrops From Space
Grade 21
13 Bolt
36m Longer is always better. Climb PB, but step left before getting to the ledge, clip a bolt and mantle like you mean it. Veer left to navigate your way through brokenness to the marathon of gray goodness above. Lower off to PB's ledge and abseil twice unless you've got an extra-long rope.
5
At a Pinch
Grade 18
11 Bolt
26m Climb PB's crack to the ledge, make sure your belayer is paying attention and pull through some hardish moves to get up into the corner and into a whole new world of funk and squeezy weirdness that feels more like caving than climbing. Makes a nice short multi-pitch if you decide to split it up by stopping on PB's ledge
6
Man on Wire
Grade 24
8 Bolt
24m This prize line speaks for itself. Excellent climbing in an outstanding position. Starts from PB's ledge, belay from the double bolt anchor, clip the high bolt on the slab before venturing out to the shallow crack at the arête. The start is apparently closer to 25/26 no matter how you do it.
7
Blimp Redemption
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m This climb started out like an onion; covered in an unappealing brown and yellow skin, but after a few days of scrubbing the outer layers came off and left this tear streamer of a route. Originally climbed on gear, it's now fully bolted for safety and mental health reasons.
9
Waiting for a Sunny Day (Prj)
Grade 0
4 Bolt
10m Starts left of the overhang with a leap to the large hollow sounding flake (don't belay below this). The remainder is self explanatory. Always dry.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 20 min 100 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Kiki Corner is the furthest right wall of Paradise.

Access: Located up the steep slope through the kiki with a fixed handline just right of the Love Shack. The Love Shack is the furthest right sandy overhang and the first one you arrive at when walking up the trail from the car park

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
WTF Silverwood! It's a Sloper!
Grade 21
5 Bolt
15m Climb the arête left of Kiki My Eeky. Surprisingly tricky and a sticky heel will help you stay on. Grade 21 if you avoid using the dirty back wall until the 4th bolt. Equipped by Neil Silverwood
-
Kiki My Eeky
Grade 18
26m You'd never guess this innocent looking open book corner could strike terror into so many sport climbers, but then again they've probably heard of a finger lock. Keep your eyes peeled for sneaky gear placements beside the crack. By the way, the diving board has been tested to 85kg.
-
Blast-phemy
Grade 19
26m Starts 3m right of Kiki My Eeky, Clip a low bolt then blast upwards through the fist crack through some lovely slots and stays left of the tree and shrubbery. Finally clip another bolt and dart immediately left into the corner to finish up Kiki My Eeky.
1
Every Tear a Waterfall
Grade 20
7 Bolt
18m A delightful number especially if you have a knack for finding hidden holds. Starts just before dropping right into the gully enroute to the Cuckoo's Nest.
2
A Quarter to Sunshine
Grade 19
10 Bolt
22m The first climb at Paradise. A well protected groovy little climb just left out of the Cuckoo's Nest over top of the handline and up into the immaculate rock.
3
One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest
Grade 22
7 Bolt
22m Starts off the pillar moving left. A naughty little crux leads to some grade 18/19 climbing above, finishing in a fine position on the small arête.
4
Chocolate X's
Grade 17
9 Bolt
23m Chimney fiesta! Just like vegemite, don't knock it till you've tried it. Jump off right from the pillar and follow the friendly line of bolts to the slab above
5
Little Timmy the Guzzberry
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Black Coffee's annoyingly close younger sibling, great climbing nonetheless. Takes the left side of the dubious but solid jugs to the left side of the arête, until finally stepping out to share the last bolt of Black Coffee.
6
Black Coffee
Grade 18, 19
15 Bolt
1. 20m Better than it looks and gets even better higher up. Psych yourself up for the crux at the small roof
2. 22m Step right to a bolt, ignoring the instantaneous exposure and storm upwards to the arête and beyond. Finish up via the last 2 bolts of Chocolate X's.
7
Bent
Grade 18
5 Bolt
13m Ballerina shoes might be more appropriate for the crux on this climb. Up the slab past some uber delicate moves at the 2nd bolt and then disappear off left behind the tree to the anchor.
8
Meanderthal
Grade 18
8 Bolt
20m The fairly well vegetated crack at the highpoint in the gully (the bolts just left of the crack). Bridge up, stepping left gently onto the slab, up past the tree then its time to use your imagination to get back into the crack. Bridge like a starfish all the way to the top.
9
Famous People Aren't so Famous
Grade 23
11 Bolt
28m A tricky number that keeps you on your toes right to the top. Start up Meanderthal's crack, clip the bolt on the right wall, and head for the sandy scoop. From here it's pretty self-explanatory, pre-crimp your fingers and follow the bolts. Can be helpful to sling the 4th and 6th bolt.
10
Assisted Suicide
Grade 19
30m The crack hidden behind the kawakawa trees. Imagine finding a piece of gold whilst out scouring the beach for greenstone. That's how Silverwood must have felt finding this gem. Sustained and terrifying climbing from start to finish, crux hits you at 7m, protected by good cams. A standard rack just cuts it, and a 00 micro cam up top will keep your shorts dry.
11
Just Another Day
Grade 22
9 Bolt
22m Recommended for both the quality of climb and for the bonus option of belaying from your sleeping bag. Start on the grass just left of the bivy with rings for its bottom two bolts.