Attribution: Dunedin Climbing facebook page. Steve Carr.
30m to the left of 'The Jolly Cobbler'. Starts at ground level behind the trees. Up the vertical brown wall to a big pocket then head rightwards onto a ledge for a welcome rest. Some devious moves take you to another bridging rest beneath the rooflet for a quick shakeout. A long reach out right to a hidden hold leads the way out onto the bulging headwall. Sprint for the top but be mindful to hit the two pockets above in the right sequence!, 9 QDs,
Overhanging by more than a metre throughout its length, devious and strenuous in nature, this route clocks in at around grade 24. Starts at ground level behind the trees - pull leftwards across the lip of the overhang on solid knobs then straight up to the base of the crackline. Fingerlocks abound up the stunning upper wall with a wide array of fantastic features. Superlative climbing.
3 & 4
The Jolly Cobbler
Grade 18, 20
1. 15m Step into the crack from the right and up onto the wall of knobs. Steep climbing to the semi-hanging belay at 15 metres. 2. 15m Launch rightwards across the wall to some powerful moves through the weakness (take a deep breath and hang in there) before moving left onto a hanging slab. Get set for a stonking finish up the hanging corner.
Fact or Friction
Storming the Palisade
Set right at the very apex of the main wall, this intimidating overhang provides the climber with a huge sense of exposure. Some great rock and moves on this cool route. Initially conceived by Dave Brash who put the work in to establish the belay and begin the cleaning process.
6m Up the track from the left to the apex under the main wall where this route begins a further 3 metres down to the right. Up to the twin pocket then rightwards to the glued on flake. Power over the bulge on surprisingly good rock, padding easily up the arête to the chains