Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
FaceCrackViewWaikanae%20crag

The 330 hectare native forest overlooking Waikanae comprises Hemi Matenga Scenic Reserve, protecting one of the largest remaining areas of Kohekohe forest. The reserve rises steeply from 150 metres to its highest point, Te Au, 514 metres above sea level. Acknowledgements go to Josh Dixon for location beta. Sam Clarke and Chris Lacoste for extensive work cleaning and making it relatively safe. Kristie Parata and Ra Higgot for the blessing and naming of the crag. Chris Lacoste for planning, purchasing and preparing the crag. Ceryn King, Alex Waterworth and Michael Eatson for assistance in bolting and first free ascents. There is an abundancy of Kawakawa berries, Kiekie fruit and Karaeo to eat at the base of the crag.

Access: From the Huia St entrance to the Te Au Track follow the grass corridor straight up to forest. Cross the stile. Immediately upon entering the forest veer left and find a pest monitoring track. The track roughly follows the fence line on the forest side. Cross 3 seasonal creek beds. Just before the fourth, head up following a feint spur for a few hundred meters before gradually traversing North into the creek bed. Continuing up you will hopefully arrive at a small bluff with supplejack featuring to the right. Head right looking for a path through. About 20 meters of brawling will see you in open forest again. The base of the crag should be obvious from here. No access permission needed.

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Dixon Crack
Grade 15
10m
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Quartz
Grade 16
7 Bolt
15m Furthest left line
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Bubble Butt-ress
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m Center line
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Ontology
Grade 19
6 Bolt
15m Furthest right line
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Myopia
Grade 17
6 Bolt
18m Right to left cross-over
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Kings crossing
Grade 18
5 Bolt
17m Left to right cross over