Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 19 routes total 400 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Boulder - 19 routes - avg. grade V1 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5

The Palmerston North region's "premier" bouldering destination. History: This fun little climbing venue was discovered on a rainy day by Matt Natti, Heme Wallace and Fabian (work mates from a local arborcultural firm) in the early spring of 2006. Matt's goal was to drive around the access roads to the southern Ruahinies in search of solid rock, the other two just wanted to get out of the house, see some sights and have a bit of an adventure. Despite the fact that everyone got wet, the day was tons of fun and did turn up some potentially good areas. The pick of the lot was a group of sandstone(?) blocks at the end of line 2 just outside Ashurst..... and with that, the Ashurst Boulder Area was born. After the initial discovery, a handful of the local climbers started making fairly regular trips up to the "tea tree boulder" (the main bouldering event in the area) trying to pull as many lines out of the rock as possible. There is still plenty of rocks in the area, but do to the walk involved to some of the other blocks.... progress in the development of other boulders has been a bit slow.

Access: Directions: From State Highway 3 between Palmerston and Woodville, take the main turn off into downtown Ashurst (Pohongina Rd.). Head North through/ past town about 10km and turn right onto East Pohongina Valley Rd, just after the Waterford Cafe and Bar. 6.5km down the road, turn right onto Line 2 and drive all the way to the DoC parking area/ trail head at the end. Follow up the track up hill until you can see a big boulder (this is the tea tree boulder, and you CAN just cruise down the hill to it) down low on the left hand side. If you walk as far as the fenceline/ DoC gate, it is best to head down left to the stream. From here, the Tea Tree Boulder is down stream 1 minute and the rest of the rocks are up the river between 2 and 15 minutes.

Attribution: Hosted on www.freeclimb.co.nz. Written by Matt Natty.

Showing all routes 14 routes total Time 1 Min

Boulder - 14 routes - avg. grade V2 V0 - V1 V2 - V3 V4 - V5

This is the main event of the area. As the above directions imply, it is the first boulder you see on your left when walking up the DoC track from the parking area. Although it may not look like much from above..... it offers some beautiful overhung problems as well as a few TALL (6 meter+) slab climbs. This guide only lists the obvious lines on the boulder, but there are HEAPS of eliminates and variations to play with if you really want to get the most mileage out of the trip out!

Walk in the Park
Grade -
(Vscary) Starting from just left of the true arete, step onto the main face and walk up diagonally right on slopey holds, following the angle of the rock. This is a no hands climb and the crux is just keeping your balance so ONLY your feet touch as you walk up (no leg smears!).
Nathen's Nasty Arete
Grade V3
LOW sit start by the left edge using bad holds and a miserable toe under the "roof." Pop your left hand up to a gaston, then roll up to a good hold higher up. Finish straight up the (VE) slab.
Game On
Grade V3
Practically a laydown start, use two bad slopers and a right heal hook to pull your arse off the ground and creep your fingers up to a somewhat positive rail which always seems JUST out of reach. Once you've pulled up from that, finish up the (VM) slab above or just jump down.
Grade -
sit start on the massive undercling, pull up onto the face on desperate slopers and go ..... somewhere!
Grade V3
Sit start using the 2 good crimps on either side of the bulgy arete/ low roof, just left of the center line of the boulder. Pull up and pop to a right hand sloper, then up to a BIG jug on the left. mantle the bulge and either finish up the face or just walk off left.
Grade V2
Start standing in between "Sunnies" and "Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason" with the left hand on the slopey edge and the right on the undercling of "MTTLR." Toss up to the "MTTLR" jug with the right, pull up and exit left. A HARD sit start is currently in the works and is open to anyone to try.
Momen-Tea-Tree Lapse of Reason
Grade V5
Stand start by the black streak with hands matched on the "good" undercling. Pull off the ground and throw to the good jug on the left edge of the arete, just by the corner. Pull up, mantle and run up the whole arete to the top. This quality line was a standing project for a LONG time... it was finally sent when all previous beta was forgotten about and nothing but a good honest "ompff" was used!
Jetlagged Direct
Grade V4
Sit start just right of "MTTLR" foot hold on a good crimp and a BIG jug. Head straight up to a good sloper, a pocket and then the "Jetlagged" gaston. Pull up to the next good rail of "JL" then finish above the tea tree on the left arete.
Grade V3
Starting at the big "x" made up of 2 crossing crack/ rails on the right side of the boulder from a crouching start, pop up to a good jug then head up and left to a gaston, a good rail and then the sloper/ jug on the low portion of the arete. Pull up by the tree and exit off left. This climb was sent 4 hours after getting off a 36 hour plane ride (including lay overs) from Boston, Massachusetts.... USA! After SOOO much sitting, sending a few lines was DEFINITELY in order.
Grade V0
Stand start at the "x" and head straight up on good holds. There is one delicate move at about 2/3rd height. This climb is technically fairly easy, but it definitely has a fear factor due to the fall potential. It is recommended to have a few spotters and at least 3 pads!
X-it Stage Right
Grade VM
Stand start at the "x" as for "JL" and "Sp," pull up to the big jug and head right with good feet. Finish standing on the small detatched boulder on the right.
Searching for a Safer Hobbie
Grade V1
Somewhat of a direct start for "x-it," stand start just to the right of "x-it" on 2 crimps. Pull up and grab for the slopey right hand hold. Finish same as "x-it."
Grade -
The blunt, right hand arete. This line wants to start sitting on the bum breaking "cheater stone" using an odd, right hand undercling/ side pull/ pinch and pulls straight up and over the bulge on small, slopey holds go straight up to finish as for "x-it."
Charlie's Arete
Grade VM
Sit start in the corner formed by tea tree boulder and the detatched, smaller boulder. Climb up the short, sharp, lay-back arete.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

The advantage to these 2 boulders is that they are the easiest to find. From the car park, they are on top of the first hill to the right. One of the boulders is so prominent it can be seen from half way down the road! The disadvantages are that they need a to be cleaned as they are a bit out of the way in regards to the other rocks, they have no routes yet, and the "to be" lines aren't all that inspiring.

Grade -
On the small boulder just down hill from the "big" boulder, there is a fun looking 1 move wonder from a sit start that finishes with a grovely mantle.
Grade -
On the "big" boulder, there looks to be a good line up the broken left arete.
Grade -
The slightly overhung face of the "big" boulder.

Showing all routes 2 routes total

Just before reaching the bushline heading up the hill on the river, there is a cool boulder about halfway up the hill on the right hand side. Although this boulder has a great little roof on it.... there are SO MANY HOLDS that there are not really many "pure" lines on it. That being said, if you head up there you can spend a good bit of time doing HARD eliminate problems or playing "add-ons."

Claydon's Traverse
Grade V2
Sit start on the low end of the roof lip (left side) and traverse the edge up and right to top out at the high point on bad slopers.
Undefined Up
Grade V1
Sit start in the right hand corner (around the arete from "CT"'s top out) and go up the slightly overhung face using the slopey crack and face holds.