Fetched from ClimbNZ on Nov 17th, 2017

Showing all routes 49 routes total

Alpine - 49 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

Showing all routes 19 routes total

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Alpine - 19 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

On a clear winter's day the snowclad peaks of the Inland Kaikoura Range are a dramatic feature, easily visible from the Marlborough plains and from many vantage points to the west and south.

No information has been found for the remote 2000-2400m peaks on the Inland range south of those described below. Access to these presents few challenges from the Clarence Valley, apart from remoteness and long ridges. Climbs to the Seaward Kaikoura peaks from Fidget Stream and Dubious Stream are seldom done due to the remote access.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2449 m

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Crow’s Nest can be reached from the North Ridge of Pinnacle.

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North West Face
Grade 0
From near the Hodder/Staircase junction climb the spur and then slopes onto the north ridge. Follow ridge, sidling on the west if necessary, to the top. Alternatively, from further up Staircase Stream, climb a gully to the col just south of Pinnacle, then traverse western slopes to a small rock rib which leads to the top. Crows Nest can be reached from the north ridge of Pinnacle.
Alpine - 15 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+

This is the most common approach to the Inland Kaikoura Range peaks

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

Pinnacle is usually reached from the Hodder Valley.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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North West Face
Grade 0
From near the Hodder/Staircase junction climb the spur and then slopes onto the north ridge. Follow ridge, sidling on the west if necessary, to the top. Alternatively, from further up Staircase Stream, climb a gully to the col just south of Pinnacle, then traverse western slopes to a small rock rib which leads to the top. Crows Nest can be reached from the north ridge of Pinnacle.
Alpine - 8 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
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Tapuae-o-Uenuku is the highest point in New Zealand north of the Aoraki Mount Cook region.

Access: Via Clarence valley or Hodder River.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst photo Rob Suisted, naturepics.com

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South Ridge
Grade 0

BS
Branch Stream Route
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY. Park your 4WD vehicle near fertiliser bins at 640m at an airstrip near Branch Cottage. Head west to a tributary of Branch Stream, follow an old farm track, then ascend a tussock slope with regenerating totara to gain a scree ridge on the true left of Branch Stream. At about 1450m, before the first rocky knobs on ridge, descend a large scree slope to the stream. Alternatively, sidle at about 1300m to the scree slope. Then climb a tussock ridge, heading north-west, and sidle into a good campsite at 1500m (map ref. O30/671108). Follow the gully and couloir at its head onto the south-west ridge, thence the normal Staircase Stream routes to the summit. (NB: don't descend the ridge between central and southern branches of Branch Stream - it ends in steep cliffs, or is guarded by dense scrub).
ER
East Ridge
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY. From the campsite of Branch Stream route , sidle an easy spur, into another campsite at about 1580m in the next tributary to the north. From a high basin east of the summit climb a steep couloir through bluffs and onto the summit slopes.
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Dee Stream Route
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY. Go upstream through a patch of beech forest and past bluffs to a spur, which leads westwards to the summit slopes of East Ridge route. This spur can also be reached from the Branch Stream routes.
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Staircase Stream Routes
Grade 0
Via HODDER RV. ‘Tappy’ is mostly rock and scree in summer, when foot trails and occasional cairns mark the route. In winter this route is not technically difficult, but it's still a big climb. From the huts follow the terrace and then across scree to the junction with Staircase Stream. Keep to the true right of Staircase Stream, across terraces, to the waterfall creek. Continue up easy slopes towards the saddle between Alarm and Tapuae-o-Uenuku, then head east, angling left under a rocky peak 2711m and up the south-west ridge to the summit. An alternative is to sidle into a basin above the waterfall and then into the basin north-west of the summit. Climb from the head of the basin to the north ridge, or else directly south-west to the top. Descend the same way, or follow the north ridge and drop down a gully just before Pinnacle (2720m).
TS
Tongue Spur
Grade 0
Via HODDER RV. The spur is easily gained from the Hodder at a low saddle. Bypass Pinnacle by a traverse (on either side). A long route.
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The Ornery Goat
Grade 4

-41.99927, 173.6653
The notch
Grade 2

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Second highest peak in the Inland Kaikouras, featuring a spectacular steep drop from the summit to the south into Dart Stream (a tributary of the Clarence River).

Access: Via either the Clarence River or the Hodder River.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst Photo Craig Potton

A
North East Ridge
Grade 0
Via Hodder River. Follow Staircase Stream routes, to the saddle between Alarm and Tapuae-o-Uenuku and onto the ridge. The last 100m before the summit is steep and may require a rope.
B
North Face
Grade 0
Via Hodder River. An excellent winter or spring route. Ascend the highest Staircase Stream basin north of Alarm, angle southward up to a couloir in middle of face (with a steep step at the base which may be icy). Climb couloir directly up to the north-west ridge, slightly west of the summit, and scramble to the top. Two tools recommended.
C
North West Ridge
Grade 0
Via Hodder River. The ridge is gained by easy slopes, either directly from Staircase Stream or by traversing from Muzzle Saddle. It consists of a jagged ridge with six major towers of loose rock, some of which require a rope.
BS
Branch Stream Route
Grade 0
Gain the ridge above the campsite in the central branch of Branch Stream, sidle into the southern branch, and then to the col between Dart Stream and Staircase Stream. From here, follow the normal North East Ridge route.
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A prominent couloir reaching to a small col between the two summit pyramids gives the peak the appearance of a bishop’s mitre.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst photo Craig Potton Shaun Barnett/ Black Robin Photography

NE
North East Couloir
Grade 0
Via HODDER RV. From the Staircase Stream junction continue up the Hodder, and climb the prominent couloir to a narrow col at the top. Beyond here, some parties may require a rope. A short steep descent and then a short traverse leads to a final steep climb to the very small summit. (via North ridge)
SE
South East Ridge
Grade 0
Via HODDER RV. This impressive rock ridge can be gained from near Muzzle Saddle, or else via a snow couloir. Good scrambling on steep rock.

Inland Kaikouras

Access: These Awatere River tributaries are seldom visited by climbers. The Winterton River is negotiable to Totara Stream, but beyond here the main river has awkward gorges. An old pack track follows up the Tone River, leading to routes on Mt St Bernard (2256m) and Mt Major (2269m).

Routes exist from the Hodder Valley, Otterson Stream and the Winterton River (all tributaries of the Awatere River).

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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South East Couloir
Grade 0
From the Hodder River, cross the Red Hills, either at map ref. O30/615142 or at O30/605118, and traverse to the saddle at the head of Trail Stream. Climb a long couloir to the summit.
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Otterson Stream Route
Grade 0
Follow the Otterson till it forks (good camp site here). Climb to the ridge above and follow it, over points 1382m and 2012m, then onto a scree slope and the final climb to the peak.
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Winterton River Route
Grade 0
Follow the Winterton to a small stream coming off Mt Gladstone and climb onto the ridge south of Gladstone Stream. A fairly long route, easy at first, then higher up the rock outcrops and buttresses give good scrambling.

Showing all routes 22 routes total

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Alpine - 22 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
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Anyone approaching the Kaikoura peninsula can hardly fail to notice the rugged high peaks towering above the coastal strip, and remarkably close to the sea. Manakau, the highest peak on the range, is only 12km from the coast, and in winter, the snowy summits seem tantalisingly close. The area experiences climatic extremes – dry in summer, southerly storms and snow in winter. Vegetation cover was greatly modified in Polynesian times by burning and later, by pastoral clearing. Pockets of original podocarp forest remain, and some Hall’s totara and red beech on higher slopes. There are extensive areas of subalpine scrub, kanuka and manuka. Both ranges were formed by rapid land uplift, and there is much evidence of faulting and erosion on the dry and barren upper slopes. Peaks of the southern range are reached from the Kowhai and Hapuku Rivers, and peaks north of Manakau are climbed from the Puhi Puhi Valley and Miller Stream. Western approaches, from the remote Clarence Valley, are seldom used. There is a skifield (Mt Lyford) on private land at the very southern end of the range. From here you can access some moderate gully climbs on the south and south-east faces of Mt Terako. Note that if you walk out of the ski area, you must sign an intentions book, since the skifield operators are responsible for safety.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst Photos: Shaun Barnett/ Black Robin Photography, Clayton Garbes

Showing all routes 8 routes total 1602 m

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Alpine - 8 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

The dominant foreground peak seen from Kaikoura, a great viewpoint and popular day trip. There are several day trip routes from Kaikoura and from the Kowhai, generally easy though steep at times.

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Standard Route
Grade 0
The most common approach is from the Hinau picnic area at the end of Postmans Rd, over a locked gate and up the 4WD road. Mt Fyffe Hut (8 bunks, standard) on Tarn Saddle at 1100m is a good lunch spot.
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Fenceline Spur Route
Grade 0
Starts from Goldmine Creek. No longer maintained but well marked.
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Te Rakaomaru Spur (Razorback) Route
Grade 0
From the end of Mt Fyffe Rd, take the track through the scenic reserve to the creek crossing, and up the streambed. Climb up the eastern edge of scree in the head of the stream onto open tops.
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Blind Spur Route
Grade 0
From the farm at the end of Brunels Rd (request permission from W Aitken, phone 03 319 5091) cross paddocks to the Waimangarara River and follow it to the first major junction. Climb north-west through forest to a rough track on the spur and continue to the bushline through subalpine scrub. The scree spur joins the summit ridge about 1.2km north-east of Mt Fyffe trig.
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Sawyer Ridge Route
Grade 0
From the farm at the end of Bay Paddock Rd (request permission from W Gray, phone 03 319 5365) follow paddocks, fence line, farm road and a rough track to the leading south spur. Tussock, rock and scree leads to Gable (1586m), north-east of the trig.
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Humpback Route
Grade 0
A long traverse to Gables End (1592m), north-east of Mt Fyffe. Choose a suitable spur from the Hapuku River to the tussock tops. Raven Spur (gained from the Hapuku gorge bypass track) can also be used.
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Kowhai Saddle Route
Grade 0
Follow tussock and scree from the saddle and along the tops to Mt Fyffe.
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Spaniard Spur Route
Grade 0
A marked track starts about 300m upstream from the Snowflake Stream junction, and joins the main ridge just below Mt Fyffe Hut.

The Kowhai River drains Mt Fyffe and the southern Seaward Kaikoura Range, and a popular tramping route is over Kowhai Saddle into the Hapuku River. The headwaters are an important breeding ground for colonies of Hutton’s shearwater (titi), a seabird which was formerly a traditional Maori food source. Titi breed during late August to mid-April in burrows high up on tussock slopes, when their calls (a rapid cackle) can often be heard at night around Kowhai Saddle. During the day they feed in the coastal waters, flying inland after dark to the nesting sites. Hutton’s shearwater are protected, and a DOC permit is required to visit the colonies.

Access: To reach the Kowhai River, turn off SH 1 north of Kaikoura into Postmans Rd and drive to the Hinau Walk picnic and parking area. A 4WD track leads to easy river flats. 4km upstream a short and normally easy gorge is entered, then a marked track continues to Sandy Flat and Kowhai Hut (6 bunks, standard).

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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Seaward Kiakoura Ra

Attribution: Ben Winnubst photo Clayton Garbes

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South Ridge
Grade 0
Access via http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/seaward-kaikoura-range/kowhai-river The long leading spur is gained from just downstream of Kowhai Hut. Near point 1368m, sidle a short tussock razorback below the crest on the east side, and then regain the spur.

Seaward Kaikoura Ra

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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Snowflake Spur Route
Grade 0
Access via KOWAI RIVER Gain the spur wherever convenient. Bypass a razorback section at 1460m by sidling well down on the western side. Alternatively, climb a Snowflake Stream tributary to reach the spur above the razorback.

Seaward Kaikoura Ra

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Homestead Spur Route
Grade 0
Access via KOWAI RIVER This long waterless spur can be gained from near Swyncombe Farm, or at Orange Grove Saddle (800m, campsite here) which is reached via a spur on the south bank of Rokomaiwhaea Creek (locally known as Orange Grove Stream). Some short steep and rough sections. Traverse the subsidiary peak to the higher summit.
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Snowflake Stream Route
Grade 0
Access via KOWAI RIVER Turn the first of three waterfalls with a steep scramble on the true right. 400m beyond the first major stream junction (campsite here on tussock terrace), climb a prominent north-west spur to the subsidiary peak. An enjoyable winter climb. Scree and tussock at the head of Snowflake Stream also gives a route.
Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

Hapuku River

Access: To reach the Hapuku River, turn off SH 1 into Parsons Rd, north of Kaikoura. Park near the main Hapuku ford. It is easy riverbed travel to the start of the gorge. In a big flood, the river sometimes carries down enough shingle to completely fill the gorge, but normally it is best to cross to the true right bank to pick up the marked track at a shingle terrrace. The track sidles high above the gorge to a track junction. The right-hand track descends to the west branch of the Hapuku, just west of the junction with the north branch. The left-hand track sidles further upstream before descending to the west branch of the river. A marked track in the west branch leads to Hapuku Hut (6 bunks, standard) situated on a terrace on the true right bank (map ref. O31/638815). The riverbed in the north branch can be followed to Barratts Bivvy (3 bunks, basic) and the historic Barratts Hut (a musterer’s slab hut, 3 bunks, basic).

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75
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Highest peak on the Seaward Kaikoura Range, Manakau is a major climb with a large height gain. In summer it is barren, hot and dry, in winter a long snow climb during short daylight hours. In fine weather the views are magnificent. The first ascent is thought to be by James Ingram in 1874.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst photo Clayton Garbes Shaun Barnett/ Black Robin Photography

2
Surveyor Spur Route
Grade 0
From HAPUKU RIVER Follow the Hapuku River north branch, at first easy, then quite bouldery, for about 3.5km to a small grassy flat. The old Barratts Hut is about 600m further upstream (well worth a look), and the new bivvy is a bit further on. The summit is an 1850m height gain, so it’s best to camp higher if possible. Surveyor Spur is the spur between Mt Stace and the main range. It is easily reached at a small saddle (1045m) directly up from the grassy flat, then follow the spur. There is a good campsite near some large boulders at about 1940m, and in winter and spring there will usually be snow hereabouts. Elsewhere the spur is waterless. Angle up easy slopes to an obvious dip in the main range. In summer it may be necessary to camp in the Stace Creek basin below this dip. Continue along the ridge crest, which steepens beyond a shallow saddle, and bypassing some gendarmes on the north side. Inexperienced parties may prefer a rope here. The traverse to Uwerau is generally straightforward and especially satisfying.
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Surveyor Spur alternative
Grade 0
A good alternative route to the top of Surveyor Spur starts from map ref. O31/659850, upstream of Barretts Bivvy, meeting the spur at 2000m. At a large cairn before the first major tributary on the true right, look for a plastic road marker pole. Initially follow through fern, then move left onto a steep open slope with tussock and scrub. Keep left of all major slips. From a small grass terrace, route climbs through alpine shrubs, lightly cut. Occasional poles mark the route, however most are not visible from above, hence this route is difficult to follow as a descent, especially if snow covered in the alpine scrub section. Then follow a narrowing ridge. At about 1300m is a small open bivvy site (no water). The route meets the main Surveyor Spur just above the 1940m campsite. A more detailed description is in the hut info folder in the bivvy.
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East Face
Grade 0
From HAPUKU RIVER Has been climbed in spring conditions, but this is steep and rugged terrain, guarded by a gorge and waterfalls in Stace Creek.
NR
North Ridge
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY Another very long route. Cross Haycock Saddle (see route 2.05) and pick up an old overgrown pack route, which sidles westwards and descends to Fidget Stream. Gain the ridge on the true left of the stream by any convenient side spur. Abseil into the crux, an 80m deep notch. Continue climbing on solid rock till a second 25m deep notch is reached, abseil into this, and then easier ground to the summit.
1
Dubious Stream Route
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY. Another very remote route. Dubious Stream can be reached from Fidget Stream (see North Ridge) via Spring Gully and Packers Stream, or else by the 4WD track on the south bank of the Clarence via Quail Flat. A high scree basin north-west of Manakau can be reached via a main eastern tributary just upstream of Lacebark Stream.
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Seaward Kaikoura Range

Attribution: Ben Winnubst Photo Clayton Garbes

1
Middle Spur Route
Grade 0
Access via KOWAI RIVER .The long ridge at the junction of Kowhai River and Kowhai Saddle Stream (known locally as Middle Spur) is initially easy scrub and tussock, later becoming a mix of scree, broken rock and gendarmes. It is possible to gain the spur from Kowhai Saddle, but steep broken rock must be crossed.
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Kowhai River Route
Grade 0
Access via KOWAI RIVER To reach the upper Kowhai, use the South Ridge of Mt Saunders route to the razorback. Sidle this, and continue to sidle animal tracks through scree and tussock above the river, then descend past ribbonwood to a major stream off the south-west slopes of Mt Saunders. Cross the stream and climb to a prominent ribbonwood flat, which descends to the river above a 10m waterfall. Cross the river, climb up to a tussock and scrub terrace, and follow this for about 400m till a descent into the open upper valley is possible. Scree can be climbed from the headwaters to a saddle at 2140m on the Uwerau to Manakau ridge. Fair scrambling, occasionally steep, leads to either peak. Considerably longer route than the usual routes.
2
South West Face
Grade 0
From HAPUKU RIVER This has been climbed in winter, but it is necessary to avoid gorges and waterfalls in the Hapuku River headwaters by a high level traverse from the normal route
3
Hapuku Route
Grade 0
Via HAPUKU RIVRER From Hapuku Hut cross the river and follow the track upriver to a small creek, just before the track enters the riverbed (map ref. O31/625813). Follow the creek up till it starts to open out and climb onto a tussock spur on the true right, which leads through easy scrub to scree and to the summit. Take care when descending Uwerau to avoid the spurs further eastwards, which have a belt of thick subalpine scrub.
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Traverse of the Seaward Kaikouras
Grade 0
A complete traverse of the range, from George Spur to Tarahaka, Te Ao Whekere, Manakau and Mt Saunders to Snowflake is quite feasible, and has been done on several occasions.

Showing all routes 8 routes total

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Alpine - 8 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75

The George Stream, Miller Stream and Wharekiri Stream tributaries of the lower Clarence provide access to the northernmost part of range. The Miller Stream catchment contains some of the best remaining podocarp and beech forests of the Seaward Kaikouras. The Clarence Valley has a long history of European occupation. Sheep stations were first established in the 1860s, but have always been difficult enterprises due to the rugged and dry land and poor access. Streams in the Clarence watershed are often deeply eroded, while elsewhere thick scrub and matagouri hampers progress. Only a few small pockets of beech and podocarp forest remain, and the climate is drier than on the eastern slopes of the Seaward Kaikouras. Many of the earliest ascents of Tapuae-o-Uenuku and Alarm were from the Clarence, but as the Awatere Valley opened up, the Hodder River approach became the usual access. Nevertheless, the Clarence approach has a unique remote charm and spectacular land forms.

Access: Seaward Kaikoura (eastern) side of Clarence River: http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-visit/marlborough/south-marlborough/ka-whata-tu-o-rakihouia-clarence/ See also the Kaikoura–Kahurangi guide updates blog for information about access to Tapuae-o-Uenuku, Alarm, and other peaks of the Inland Kaikouras from Bluff Station or Muzzle Station.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2590 m

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Te Ao Whekere 2598m The second highest peak of the Seaward Kaikouras, and a good winter climb. The shortest routes are from Happy Valley, and permission must be obtained

Attribution: Ben Winnubst Shaun Barnett/ Black Robin Photograhy.

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Happy Valley Route
Grade 0
At a gate on a saddle overlooking Puhi Peaks Station, follow ridgetop fencelines west to point 1086m, then farm tracks which descend into Happy Valley. There is a good campsite on a tussock shelf (map ref. O30/697904). Climb steep tussock and scree slopes above the campsite, or a rocky rib slightly downstream, to a scree spur, and sidle into the large basin east of the summit. Alternatively, continue up to the head of Happy Valley Stream, and climb scree northwards, crossing a spur falling from point 2430m, and easy slopes to the summit. This is also a good descent route.
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Jordan Stream Route
Grade 0
Follow up Jordan Stream to the major fork, and continue up the true left branch till at 700m where the stream swings west. Climb a large scree slope north onto the major spur running north-west. The spur levels at 1500m, where there are campsites, with water in the head of Range Stream. Continue to the tops surrounding the head of Happy Valley Stream, follow around the rim and north to the summit. A long but straightforward route.
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Totaranui Route
Grade 0
The major spur of Jordan Stream route above can also be reached by following spurs from Totaranui Farm on Puhi Puhi Rd. Request permission from Kevin & Sandy Topp, phone 03 319 6066, e-mail info@adventurekaikoura.co.nz.
HR
Haycock Ridge
Grade 0
Via CLEARANCE VALLEY. A very long route from Haycock Saddle, which can be reached from the lower Clarence via George Saddle and Jam Stream. A rocky tower at 2130m is the main obstacle.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2283 m

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And Peak 2311m These impressive peaks at the south end of George Spur are seldom climbed. Peak 2311m is known locally as George Spur. They can be reached by a long traverse from Te Ao Whekere, which involves some difficult rock scrambling. Point 2032m, east of Tarahaka, can be reached easily by various ridge traverses, but it is difficult climbing from here to George Spur.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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Miller Stream Route
Grade 0
On the south bank of the Clarence River bridge, turn off SH1 into Waipapa Rd and drive to Middle Hill Station. Request permission to cross private land from Rick King, phone 03 319 4338. Follow Miller Stream and at a major junction take the north branch. (The south branch headwaters are gorged and bluffy). At another major junction, directly north of Devils Lookout, take the true right fork. Good campsites at about 850m just before a gorge. Above a prominent waterfall the stream opens out. Climb a prominent scree on the north bank to the spur, and follow the tops. A narrow eroded argillite rock section just before peak 2311m requires care, although it can be avoided by traversing steep loose scree.
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George Stream Route
Grade 0
Take the Clarence Valley Rd on the north bank of the Clarence bridge. Public access is up the streambed, 1km north of Glen Alton Station (phone Gavin Clarke, 03 319 4488). From Waiautoa Rd proceed 1.6km up George Stream to a 4WD track and climb to George Spur. Water can be found in gullies below a campsite near point 1191m. Follow the long spur (see route Miller Stream Route)

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2311 m

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800m North of Tarahaka These impressive peaks at the south end of George Spur are seldom climbed. Peak 2311m is known locally as George Spur. They can be reached by a long traverse from Te Ao Whekere, which involves some difficult rock scrambling. Point 2032m, east of Tarahaka, can be reached easily by various ridge traverses, but it is difficult climbing from here to George Spur.

Attribution: Ben Winnubst

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Miller Stream Route
Grade 0
On the south bank of the Clarence River bridge, turn off SH1 into Waipapa Rd and drive to Middle Hill Station. Request permission to cross private land from Rick King, phone 03 319 4338. Follow Miller Stream and at a major junction take the north branch. (The south branch headwaters are gorged and bluffy). At another major junction, directly north of Devils Lookout, take the true right fork. Good campsites at about 850m just before a gorge. Above a prominent waterfall the stream opens out. Climb a prominent scree on the north bank to the spur, and follow the tops. A narrow eroded argillite rock section just before peak 2311m requires care, although it can be avoided by traversing steep loose scree.
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George Stream Route
Grade 0
Take the Clarence Valley Rd on the north bank of the Clarence bridge. Public access is up the streambed, 1km north of Glen Alton Station (phone Gavin Clarke, 03 319 4488). From Waiautoa Rd proceed 1.6km up George Stream to a 4WD track and climb to George Spur. Water can be found in gullies below a campsite near point 1191m. Follow the long spur (see route Miller Stream Route)