Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 63 routes total 0 m

Trad - 59 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 3 routes - avg. grade - V0 - V1
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Teana

The rock at Te Ananui is rhyolite, typically horizontally banded and vertically jointed, which makes for extremely positive holds and cracks that provide sound placements. The rock quality is variable: in general where the rock is white, it has weathered to a sandy, often salt encrusted and rounded form. Some routes have gone on this rock, but as a best bet for the newcomer, it should be avoided! There is a great deal of extremely solid rock, which is typically orange or yellow in colour. Most of the good routes follow cracks and seams on this rock, which is usually close to vertical. There are an abundance of positive holds, so that grades tend to group around 16-18, although most are fairly strenuous. Having raved about how solid the rock is, take care since many of the routes have only been climbed once or twice, and there will be the odd loose rock. It's a very good idea for the belayer, if not the leader as well, to wear a helmet, and to stack the rope somewhere safe. Jo Haines spotted the cracklines on Pohutukawa cliff in September 1991 and on a subsequent visit with Dave Campbell they put up five routes in an afternoon. These two were responsible for most of the early routes. Various other climbers visited the beach during the summer, and in particular Mark Jones and Ray Hollingsworth added an impressive string of routes. Access to the top of the cliffs is difficult, so there is little here for the top-roping climber. If you want to climb, bring your rack! There is good bouldering, especially on Echo wall, with good landings on soft sand. Gear; To climb at Te Ananui you'll need a range of cams and wires of all sizes. Hexes even come in handy. Flexible camming units are especially handy as there are lots of deep horizontal breaks. RP's have even been used on Echo wall where the tight seams allow good placements (although you'll probably need to convince yourself of that!). Slings are needed for runners around trees. Of the nearly 70 routes at Te Ananui, only a handful use bolts for protection. It would be nice to see this ratio of bolts to natural pro. remain. The gear you will need - a full rack of cams and wires plus hexes if you have them, and 11 quickdraws.

Access: Te Ananui is 12 km by road from Whangamata on the Coromandel Peninsula. Five km north of Whangamata turn right to Onemana, then at the top of the hill take the private road right for 5 km until you reach a small carpark in the forest, 500 m past the last paddocks. From here the track leads off along a ridge, then down a steep gully to the beach. The first cliffs are 100 m to the right. Walking past these you'll get to a small tunnel leading to a completely enclosed little beach where most of the route development to date has taken place. There is no camping allowed in the forest, and a sign on the gate says the gate is locked at 7pm, it isn’t always closed but I know of at least one group that has been locked in. There is no fresh water at the beach for most of the year. The Tunnel Area You’ve just walked through the tunnel, and you’ve found yourself on a beautiful secluded little beach surrounded by tall cliffs draped by Pohutukawa trees. Just before you tear off your clothes and rush into the sea, check out the crags here. On your immediate right and above you is The Cheddar Master's Choice. At the far end of the beach is a cliff which juts out into the sea with prominent cracklines, and a cave. This is Pohutukawa cliff. Along the cliff to the right is a white expanse of rock called Scunge wall (for obvious reasons). This merges into a high steep cliff of beautiful orange rock with thin cracklines called Echo wall, home of some of the best Te Ananui routes. Partly hidden by trees is Yellow brick road wall.

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. hosted by Cliff Ellery, written by Dave Campbell.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Nthend

On descending the track to the beach, turn right. The first cliff at the back of the beach has a small waterfall when wet. This is Waterfall buttress. It is composed of the full range of Te Ananui rock, from the solid black and solid orange rock to the left of the waterfall, to the weathered white crud on the far left. Take the hint and climb on the solid stuff.

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Waiver up
Grade 16
Left of Good Friday is a long white and yellow wall. At the far left end is a low arete. Eight metres right of the arete there is a small dead tree and Kei kei. Below this are two parallel cracks. Climb these and exit to the right of the block.
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Good Friday
Grade 19
25m An excellent varied route up the prominent orange buttress. Two metres left of Ash Wednesday is a corner crack with two small roofs. Climb the corner to the upper roof which is turned on the right. Step left onto the ledge then strike boldly up the wall above (crux) (what looks like loose rock is actually solid). Follow the crack exiting past a block on the left. Scramble up to a firmly-rooted tree further up the bank.
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Ash Wednesday
Grade 17
7m Short but shit hot. Nine metres left of the waterfall is a right-facing corner of jetblack rock, the left wall split by a crack above an overhang. Climb this to the small tree on the ledge.
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Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 17/4/1992
Grade 16
15m A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy. Jo Haines, Dave Campbell 1/3/1992.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
A%26aSurfup

Walking left, around the prominent arete is an alcove and the start of an impressive wall with a long roof broken by a pillar in the centre. This is Surf's up wall, which extends 70 metres to the tunnel which gives access to the main crag.

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Thunder road
Grade 20, 17
1. 20m Starts at the back of the cave at the base of a corner. Up this to a roof and traverse left around the corner on good jams and underclings. Keep going to the ledge at the seaward mouth of the tunnel.
2. Launch spectacularly across the mouth of the cave on good flakes until one can regain the ledge above. Back left to finish up a corner.
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The mission bell
Grade 21
7m The short but elegant crack on the right as one enters the archway from the north. The block on the upper left wall is stable, but not solid enough to protect behind. Either finish up Fallen angel or traverse and downclimb something.
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Fallen angel
Grade 17, 18
1. 15m Takes the right-facing corner just around from and right of the tunnel at the south end of Surf's up wall. Either climb the low angled rock above, or sidle right then left to get to the base of the left-facing corner above to belay.
2. 10m Bridge up the overhanging corner on good rock, stepping right to exit at the top. Scramble up to belay behind a tree.
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Ellen's route
Grade 13
15m Short groove 15 metres left of Procrastination.
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Procrastination
Grade 20
20m Break roof on the right and bridge up the corner. At present the finish is a bit nasty, but this will be a classic if a bolt anchor is installed.
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Void to the sea
Grade 16
20m Left of RTS is a wall with roofs. Towards the left hand end are a couple of bolted routes (grade and details?). Forty metres left of Anarchy is a corner with a V-shaped roof. This is Procrastination. Two metres right of Procrastination climb up the right-trending flake to the corner with a ledge. Engineer some protection then climb the corner.
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Romancing the stone
Grade 21
15m Three metres left of Anarchy at the start of the long roof is this obvious crack. Boulder up to the roof where there is a solid Friend placement then break through onto the gently overhung wall above (crux). Climb the crack and exit right at the top.
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Anarchy
Grade 22
15m Start as for Apathy then move left past the roof (crux) and finish up the corner above. A fine climb and very sustained. Look for good #5 Rock placement left of the roof. Belay off the bollard and trees back from the top. Abseil or downclimb arete.
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Apathy
Grade 19
15m At the far right-hand end of Surf's up wall is a shady alcove with a corner and small roof. Stem the corner (crux) to the roof then exit rightwards and up the seam above. This is the whimps version of the next climb, but still a nice route on it's own. Good protection with wires and Friends. A 3.5 Camalot is useful for the large break near the top.
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She shall on the sea shore
Grade 16
15m A nice line that's harder than it looks. Climb the crack 2m right of the Anarchy/Apathy corner then follow the groove leftwards to finish up Apathy.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
CcCc1

At the far left end there is a dramatic, sheer wall with some amazing rock high up.

Access: The Tunnel Area You’ve just walked through the tunnel, and you’ve found yourself on a beautiful secluded little beach surrounded by tall cliffs draped by Pohutukawa trees. Just before you tear off your clothes and rush into the sea, check out the crags here. On your immediate right and above you is The Cheddar Master's Choice. At the far end of the beach is a cliff which juts out into the sea with prominent cracklines, and a cave. This is Pohutukawa cliff. Along the cliff to the right is a white expanse of rock called Scunge wall (for obvious reasons). This merges into a high steep cliff of beautiful orange rock with thin cracklines called Echo wall, home of some of the best Te Ananui routes. Partly hidden by trees is Yellow brick road wall.

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Roger rabbit's radical route
Grade 15, 13, 17
1. 12m Climb the short corner and face with cracks to large ledge behind a tree.
2. 20m Creep up the ramp using a crack in the wall behind for protection, then do a Tarzan impersonation up through the trees beyond to arrive at a belay at the base of the upper wall.
3. 20m Climb the steep white corner, exit right onto good rock, then up the face to a groove. Finish at a ledge (where an attack of the amazing shrinking testicles struck, causing an immediate evacuation of the victim by abseil. The orange-slung hex is yours if you want to finish this route).
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Judge Dread
Grade 22
35m The striking yellow wall. Start boldly as for Strontium dog then traverse left with growing concern to the first of 6 bolt brackets. Finishes at the Pohutukawa. Must be a classic!
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Strontium dog
Grade 19
35m Takes the shallow corner right of the striking yellow wall at the left end of The Cheddar Masters choice (see topo). Climb through choss and trees on the right to reach the belay ledge to start. Above this good pro thins out quickly until the corner is gained. Up this to the Pohutukawa to finish.
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Dreams are brie
Grade 20
15m Five metres along from the tunnel is an obvious white flake. Assault the right crack of the flake (deceptively awkward). Finish up cheesy ground (beware of loose blocks). Large hex or cam for belay.
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Simon the drowning belayer
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m On the seaward side of the tunnel exit is a black slab. Five bolts up the slab. Don’t get caught by the tide! 1992.

Showing all routes 19 routes total

Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
EcholEchor

Echo wall was named after a night camping at the base, where some rather strange noises were heard (or imagined). It contains some of the best rock at Te Ananui, and is uniformly steep and solid. Remember though that many of the routes have only received one or two ascents, so there will still be the odd loose rock. Protection is generally good. Wires are particularly useful here. For those new at Te Ananui, probably the most userfriendly (and most repeated) route is the bolted Drilling fields. Find this route and use the topo to orient yourself.

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Save the snails
Grade 11
15m Easy corner crack on the last of the yellow rock, finish up slab on the right to reach belay tree at the top of Surf Nazi gannets.
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Titiro mai
Grade 18
20m Watch me! A fabulous outing. Takes the prominent groove to the top of the cliff, with the single small knarled pohutukawa at half height. Start as for Save the snails then stem up the short corner; alternatively start as for Eco Guerillas, carrying on up the corner. At the small tree, step right, up, then stem left into the groove (exposed!). At the top of the groove, step right to finish at the inevitable tree.
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Eco-guerillas
Grade 18
15m Three metres left the roof is broken by a diagonal line. Climb this and finish as for the above route.
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Shark attack
Grade 18
15m Just left of Surfing with the alien is an overhang with a crack through it. Boulder up jugs on the overhanging wall, stack Friends under the roof then go for it! Move left below the shrubbery then belay behind the tree. A fun route.
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Surfing with the alien
Grade 15
20m Crack and deep groove nine metres left of Passion and warfare.. Finish up the short wall at the top to the tree.
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Passion and warfare
Grade 18
15m Ten metres left of The drilling fields is this obvious line up the overhanging yellow wall. Carefully through choss at the top to tree belay.
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Rock in a hard place
Grade 17
20m Two metres left of TDF, up the bulging orange wall on good holds. 6 bolts lead to a large Pohutukawa branch that you can clamber onto and rap off. A nice climb.
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The drilling fields
Grade 19
20m The route with the most ascents at Te Ananui, it's the rippled inset face left of a prominent corner. Boulder to the ledge then six bolts. Originally lead with four bolts and 2 CD's through the crux, it's much more of a consumer route now! Step right onto the ledge to DBC belay. Three 3 bolts through the bulge have been added to provide a direct finish at grade 21. .
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The naked and the scared
Grade 17
20m The thin seam on the face 2 m left of Raising the Titanic. Crux is close to the ground, nice moves to the small tree, then finish up the crack (watch the loose block) to DBC belay.
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Raising the Titanic
Grade 17
22m This steep corner just left of the prominent black streak on Echo wall was avoided for a long time because it looked unprotectable. It’s all there, the result is a lovely climb on solid rock. Take RP’s, wires and Friends to #2. Pleasant face moves and stemming take you to a ledge on the right at 3/4 height. Protect the final moves up the corner (easy) with a #1 or #2 RP, to the DBC anchor.
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Voyage of the Beagle
Grade 17
22m A classic steep face climb on great rock with solid protection and good rests. Climb the seam to a small tree and ledge, then trend rightwards up the face to the DBC belay. Take a large cam for the wide crack near the top.
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The Monkey Wrench gang
Grade 18
15m The direct start to Voyage of the Beagle up the thin seam just to the right.
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Battle of the hexes
Grade 19
22m The classic line on Echo wall. Prominent thin seam with a tiny shrub near the base. Through the overhang to the small tree, then two more overhangs above. Finish at a sloping ledge, original exit was right via chimney and ledge to large tree, but now has own DBC belay.
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Call of the sphincter
Grade 17
15m The thin seam to the tree, finishing up Last great American whale.
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Last great American whale
Grade 16
25m One of these would never make it up this route, but you should be able to. Climb the short corner to the ledge, then up the crack to a tree. Scramble through it, up the crack above and to another tree. Traverse left along the vague ledge to the DBC belay for Voyage of the Beagle.
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Shiekh Abeek
Grade 15
15m Start as for Under the influence but continue directly up the crack on the face to the small trees above the overhang and DBC belay.
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Under the influence
Grade 17
18m Start at the short crack leading to a ledge, move right behind the tree then up the corner crack and face, break through the roof to finish at the small tree and DBC belay.
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Crows nest
Grade 13
25m The sometimes good, sometimes loose corner at the far right-hand end of Echo wall. Finishes way up in the trees. "Beach alpine climbing", according to Will.
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Penguins rip my flesh
Grade 23
25m At the far right end of Echo Wall you can scramble up to the base of Yellow brick road wall. This line was led on sight and uncleaned by Mark, quite an achievement for a route of this grade. Climb the obvious pedestal then up to a prominent pock and follow the line of least resistance, trending left then right to belay ledge. Protection is only adequate and not obvious at times. Take a #2 Camalot for belay and a medium sling for rap bollard. Friends, hexes and Rocks.

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16

At the time of development both Scunge Wall and the Pohutakawa cliff had golden sand beaches at the base. The sand is long gone and the exposed rock shelf is below the high tide mark. The climbing is still just as nice, and a bit higher to boot, but you need to take a bit more care with the belays and starting moves. You can traverse along the base of these cliffs at half tide and in flat seas. Left of here there is a low cliff composed of white, rounded rock, called Scunge wall. Often sandy or salt encrusted, nevertheless there are a few good lines.

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Lot's wife
Grade 16
20m Takes the laid back corner four metres right of the cave. Nice line with good pro and nice moves BUT salt encrusted rock and a scary traverse right at the top make it a bit of an epic.
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Mega surprise
Grade 14
15m Yes, Sally was surprised to find she has just climbed a new route, but then, that's Te Ananui for you! Take the middle line from the small pedestal, to top of the flake, then straight up for a sandy finish to the flax bushes.
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Pohutukawa palace
Grade 16
15m Prominent crackline.
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Can Robins fly?
Grade 12
15m Prominent left-tending weakness, on rounded white rock. Robin took a winger at the top when a big block came away. Robin Major,
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It's just a bum
Grade 14
15m Starts up Can Robins fly until half height, then rightwards. .
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Land rights for gay whales
Grade 15
15m Crackline just left of Surf Nazi gannets.
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Surf Nazi gannets
Grade 14
15m Sally's first lead on natural gear and her first new route! Crack to the left of the prominant arete nest to Save the snails, trend right to tree belay.

Showing all routes 18 routes total

Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Boulder - 3 routes - avg. grade - V0 - V1
Pohut

Left of the prominent cave (there will be some awesome routes out of this some day) is Pohutukawa cliff, the cliff with the obvious cracklines. This cliff attracted most attention initially, and has the greatest density of routes.

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Toad in the hole
Grade 17
15m On the outside wall of the chimney/cave. Boulder up the roof to start, then follow the groove past the hole to the top. Abseil down the chimney while on belay.
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Santa's surprise
Grade 16
On the beach south of the pinnacle is a low cave which gives access to a huge open chimney. Inside the chimney is a perfect Whanganui bay style corner crack (if a little dirty). Climb it to the top of the chimney. Use your imagination to get down.
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Boulderers licence
Grade -
7m The next little cove has a prominent slab just left of a small cave. BP refers to boulder problem: Face and crack just left of Scramble.
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Scramble
Grade -
7m Up ripples and pocks on the arete left of the chimney.
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Opposing forces
Grade -
7m The chimney.
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Burlesque
Grade 17
12m A little grubby, but a nice crack climb with a definite crux. Traverse left to the small bush to finish, or carry on up to a sturdy Pohutukawa.
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Groovy crabs
Grade 17
20m On the seaward end of Pohutukawa cliff are some grooves and cracks. The first route at Te Ananui, this takes the left-most groove. Crux moves through the bulge, finishing up a dirt bank (careful).
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Sneeches on beaches
Grade 15
25m Stepped arete left of chimney/offwidth at the end of Pohutukawa cliff. Exit left at the top (sandy) and up to scrub.
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Dreadrock holiday
Grade 21
20m Thin crack above the groove two metres left of Antymatter. Runout at the top on shitty rock. Needs a bolt belay.
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Antymatter
Grade 18
20m flake. Belay off Pohutukawa roots, beware of the ant nest.
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Rapture of the steep
Grade 19
20m The thin crack two metres left of Thidwicks flake. Climb to the level of the Pohutukawa and traverse into it to belay. RP's useful.
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Thidwick's flake
Grade 17
15m Corner crack system, with the flake in the lower corner. Finish at the tree. A choice line on good rock.
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Solitary vice
Grade 19
18m The open corner on the left side of the arete. Sound rock and nice bridging moves.
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Rhyolite rhapsody
Grade 16
18m Past the arete left of Ken takes a tumble is a steep face with cracklines which juts out towards the sea (shown on the cover photo). The prominent central corner crack system with the large tree in the top corner is Thidwick's flake. Three metres right of Thidwick's flake is a small roof at 2-3 m height, with an arete above. Up the flake and through the small roof to the pedestal, then up the steep corner crack on the right side of the arete to finish at the tree. Nice!
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Ken takes a tumble
Grade 16
18m Corner crack on the buttress one metre left of Flying in a blue dream. Step right to tree at the top of Flying in a blue dream. Nice.
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Flying in a blue dream
Grade 16
18m A lovely climb and a good introduction to Te Ananui. Corner crack system, clamber past the small tree to the large Pohutukawa for belay and abseil.
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Sweet Melisa
Grade 15
18m Direct start to Demolition crack, takes the thin crack 1m left.
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Demolition crack
Grade 16
18m Overhanging pod and crack to start (crux), then overlapping hand crack, step left below dead stump into the base of the prominent crack splitting the face, exit right to ramp and up to belay tree. Named for the huge block pulled off on the second ascent.