Trad - 47 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V3 V2 - V3
Piarere

Piarere is situated in the Waikato between Cambridge and Tirau, near the junction of SH1 and SH29. The crag consists of two parallel cliffs, one each side of SH29. It has been described as New Zealand’s most British crag, located as it is on open farmland adjacent to a highway, a few minutes from a tea-room, and even with a pub not too far away. The rock is ignimbrite and, although generally friable in places, gives pleasant climbing mainly in cracks and chimneys. Cracks tend to have rounded edges and widen towards the top. The main cliff faces north and is an ideal place to climb in winter. Nowadays Piarere is eclipsed by the quality crags at Wharepapa. There is still potential for new routes at Piarere.

Access: Permission to climb must be obtained from the landowners. Remember, if you find a gate open leave it open; if you find it shut, close it after you and check that it is properly shut. When you have finished climbing please call in and tell the farmer you are leaving. Take all rubbish with you. Most of the climbs at Piarere are on the Southern Cliff, located on land owned either in full or in partnership by Frank Healy. His farm house is alongside SH29 some 4km east (towards Tauranga) from its junction with SH1, about 400m past the Hinuera Quarry entrance, on a bend, on the southern (cliff side) of the highway. There is a safe parking on the corner. Do not drive onto the farm. After Mr Healy’s permission has been obtained, walk down the race to the old milking sheds, turning left follow the race down the to the second hedgerow. From here head down to the rock following the hedge. At the rock turn left again and 50m or so will bring you to ‘The Spring’. All the climbs are described either from the left or from the right of The Spring. The reasons for this are that The Spring is in the middle of the crag, the best climbs are situated nearby, and it’s somewhere cool and damp to leave your beer. Climbs to the left of Late Night are on Maori land currently leased to Mr Duncan, who can be contacted by phone on Hinuere 791. There are only three climbs to date on the smaller northern cliff and permission must be sought from Mr Vosper, whose farmhouse is the first on the left past the quarry when coming from SH1.

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. hosted By Cliff Ellery, written by Pete Manning

Showing all routes 21 routes total

Trad - 20 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V3 V2 - V3
Springl

The climbs are described from left to right, opposite to the approach. The obvious chimney system above. The spring remains unclimbed . It could offer good caving , I mean climbing, but watch for the possible loose rock.

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Visions of Rolling Doughnuts
Grade 17
10m 50m left of the Prow. An S-shaped hand to fist crack in the middle of a steep wall with a small roof at third height. From the ledge , fist jams lead through the roof (crux). The crack above widens and the curves as the face leans back. Tape up your arm, this bites!
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Overcammed
Grade 17
15m The second crack to the right of The Prow. Some jamming, some Offwidth. A poor line broken by large ledges.
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The Prow
Grade 22
20m 300m left of the Pinnacle and wall worth the walk. Hidden in the grove of a mahoe trees but impossible to miss. (However I have yet to find it..Cliff) A tight handcrack running up the middle of the Prow. – a narrow protruding arete. There is a small cabbage tree at the top of the climb. The rock is soft in the middle of the climb but it is easy jamming country. The crux is the top vertical section which is on reasonably good rock.
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Blood of a Lamb
Grade 18
20m 50m left of "The Pinnacle" is an obvious right facing corner broken at half height by a large ledge on the right hand side. Thorn bush at base. A nice clean corner that just begs to be climbed. Layback and bridge to the ledge on good rock, then jam to the top.
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The Pinnacle
Grade 16
10m 50m left of a stream is a hedge row. 10m or so further left is an obvious leaning pinnacle. Climbed by the slab on the back. There is an abseil bolt in place but I suggest you back it up as it’s been there along time.
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Late Nites
Grade 15
8m Immediately left of " Dai Thrytchyn" and just around the corner, before the ditch , is a pretty slab on the side of a boulder. Climb up the middle of the slab past one bolt, step left at the second bolt. A pleasant route for beginners. Either climb down the back of the boulder to a ledge and then jump into the leafy gully , or wait at the top to be rescued by a fireman.
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Dai Thrytchyn
Grade 15
8m A short steep right-facing corner with a thorn bush at the base. Climb the hand crack. This route finishes on a small grassy knoll. Descent by jumping off the ledge on the other side into a gully full of dead leaves.
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Ice Cream Jimme
Grade 17
12m A right facing corner. Jam and bridge the corner. The crack widens to offwidth in the top section. Take care with the loose flake which forms one wall of the crack at mid height.
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Yo Gotta Say Yes (to another excess)
Grade 10
10m The chimney 1m right of the “Ice Cream Jimmie”
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Short Crack
Grade 16
10m 50m left of fence/hedgerow. A short climb with a long description. The description is the crux. A crack of about knee and shoulder width in a corner. Climb this for some 3m to a large grassy ledge leading off to the right. A wider chimney leads up from here behind a stout pinnacle detached from the main face. Climb this to a spike, then left along a sharp level rib a metre or so and awkwardly up the crack/chimney to the top of the four boulder in a row (??). Descend down the same crack but at the back. .
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Middle Earth
Grade 19
12m Some 25m left and before the fence is an inset box like groove with an overhang top. The orangey prominent left facing corner. Strenuous face moves lead to fingerlocks then to earthly jams. The crux is the overhanging offwidth at the top. The bolts were added sometime later by someone believing they were preparing a new route. Twit!
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When The Wind Blows
Grade 17
10m A large rib with a hole through it near the top. Tight hands and bridging near the top , all on good rock.
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Bronchial Wheeze
Grade 18
12m A hard start, then easy but deep jamming to the top.
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Escapee From Suburbia
Grade 18
12m Behind a small clump of cabbage trees is a crack system. Jam, bridge and wheeze to the ledge. Jamming the curving crack system at the top is the crux. Nice moves.
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Black Crow
Grade 19
15m Climb the twin cracks. Jam the right hand of the two cracks till it’s possible to bridge across to the left. The crux is the overhanging tight hand section in the middle. The chimney at the top is almost OK.
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Closed Shop
Grade 22
On the left side of the gut is a deep right-facing corner. Layback and stem off fingerlocks to the roof. Jam around an up the exit crack (crux) to the top. The rock , like the climbing , improves the higher one gets. Unlike most Piarere climbs this finish is not offwidth. A classy climb.
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If Dogs Run Free
Grade 19
20m Up a little way on the right-hand side of the gut. Back and knee fingerlock/jam to the roof, which is the crux. The interest however is provided by the hand traverse out right on good fingerlocks (there is a #5 or #6 Rock placement halfway). At the end of the traverse right on the top of the crag is a 2 ½ fried placement “If dogs run free, why not we”- Bob Dylan.
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Earth Closet
Grade 19
15m Fingerlock to the roof, jam above. Easy bridging at the top avoids the chimney. The crux is pulling over the roof.
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Forward Play
Grade 19
20m A steep straight, hand crack. Tight hands, then the obligatory offwidth /chimney section near the top. Previously attempted by Gillman and Martin in 1980. This climb still sees occasional failures, however the crux is low down.
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Gateway
Grade 18
22m An unmistakable line. The Huge massive crack is not as easy or as straightforward as it looks. Don’t be put off by the top section as it is pleasant back and footing. A good climb , worth doing.
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Power Without The Glory
Grade V3
Immediately left of The Spring is the fine boulder problem. Climbs the roof crack from near the left hand side of the fence.

Showing all routes 26 routes total

Trad - 24 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Rhs

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Peanut Slab
Grade 15
15m 20 m right of “The Spring”. Start from the large ledge around on the right ( a direct start to the climb would be very hard indeed). Sports two fixed pegs and two naked bolts and one fixed thread runner. There is also a sling placement high on the climb. A little dirty now a days.
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More Oh
Grade 16
20m Climb the slab and corner using the wiggly crack for pro. Wide all the way to the crux near the top , with an airy finish. A little over grown.
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Fancy Free
Grade 18
10m 20m right is a hedgeline. Some 70m right of this, Two thirds of the way to the next fence, is a right facing corner with an obvious horizontal break on the left wall. Starting form the sloping ledge at the base, climb the crack, which runs from knifeblade to #4 Friend. There is a fixed peg at the crux. A nice climb on good rock.
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Aids Climbing
Grade 21
20m The crack line 5m right of Fancy Free. The crux is where the crack turns into a right hand horizontal break, climb straight up past a peg and a bolt. Three bolts and a peg plus the crack takes wires and smallish friends. Jim Walseth, Joe Kippax
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Tree Crack
Grade 15
10m 20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner:
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Tree Crack
Grade 15
10m 20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
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Undecided
Grade 16
12m Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A varied finger to fist crack, with lots of pocks on the walls. A classic Piarere corner. Soft rock and green, what more could you want.
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The Green Slime Climb
Grade 10
10m The chimney immediately to the right has been climbed believe it or not. A grooty chimney.
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Ruiseart
Grade 22
12m 10m right is another hedge, and a 50m right of this (directly opposite a swimming pool beside the house , though some distance away) is a descent gully. Immediately to the right is a wall with two thin cracks. Climb the right hand crack. The overhang at half height provides the crux. Finish (what else) up to a large gum tree.
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Bill’s Climb
Grade 16
15m Some 30m right is a large chimney with a 4m high block at its base. The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance. Climb up on the left to a ledge, and continue up the chimney . The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance.
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Grub’s Chimney
Grade 14
12m 30m right (behind the barn) and behind a prominent buttress is another chimney. Entered from the right past a pittosporum. The crux is at the top, getting onto the ledge at the top of the buttress. Protectionless and decent is by jumping off.
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Fatlip
Grade 16
12m Jam the crack curving leftwards at the top.
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Piarere Revisited
Grade 16
12m Left of Painkiller, and left of the next fence is an obvious chimney, left of this is another chimney with a horizontal break and hand crack leading to the top. Climb the chimney , hand traverse right, then finish up the hand crack.
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Painkiller
Grade 19
15m A thin crack widening above. Tape you hands for this sharp little problem.
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Junction Crack
Grade 16
15m 50m right is a hedge row, immediately right is a buttress with a chimney system inside it. If you are climbing the lines in this area you can gain access to the area by turning left at the old cow shed and barn then after the first hedge row cross the paddock to the lines of Piarere Corner and The Crucifix. Been described as a excellent route if you are into chimneys.
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Brinderwin
Grade 20
15m 3m right is an obvious right facing corner. Climb the fist crack from the low shelf. There used to be a horizontal tree near the top but Robbie McBirney showing off bouncing on it one day dislodged it and along with all his pro hit the deck.
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Piarere Corner
Grade 19
15m 15m to the right is an overhanging left facing corner with pine tree roots reaching into the upper crack. The hard overhanging start leads to easier climbing . Finishes at a large pine tree. A classic climb.
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Edwardian Ploy
Grade 21
15m A good climb just right of Piarere Corner. Sports 2 fixed pegs with the crux unfortunately just below the first one.
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Unknown Route (??)
Grade 0
15m Some 15m right is “The Crucifix”. Climb the left facing corner past 2 pegs then continue up crack above, typical Piarere finish corner.
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The Crucifix
Grade 20
20m A cross shaped formation . A narrow U-groove with a finger to hand crack in the back. A nice climb.
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Senility Beckons
Grade 18
15m 10m right is a crack with a cockstone. A fist crack, rapidly closing off then reopening to hands with a cockstone to negotiate at the top of a short pillar-box chimney. A companion climb to Bryce’s route Childhoods End at Whanganui and a personal statement.
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Immortality
Grade 19
12m 20m right is another fenceline, then another 40m across some boggy ground and past the powerlines is a free standing pillar. On the front of this is one of the best climbs at Piarere. A fine face line up a steep groove in the middle of the pillar. Well protected by three bolts , but little run out above the last bolt. Abseil/belay off.
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Bambi Meets Godzilla
Grade 18
12m This one take the reddish arete to the left of the Immortality. There’s 3 bolts , and fixed anchors on the pillar top. (see Immortality)
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Atom Heart Mother
Grade 19
15m 10m right is a steep black and yellow wall with two crack/groove. The right hand decimetre wide crack/groove. A few slab moves to start, then into the crack. A tube is useful to protect some committing moves at half height, and wires at the top. You need to go some distance back at the top for a decent belay.
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Stingbeans And Spyrogyra
Grade 17
15m To quote Grant “this is a fun varied climb on solid rock”. Jam through the bulge to ledges and layback /bridge the crack/corner above, stepping right and up at the top”. Go some distance back at the top into the larger scrub for a good belay.
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Combat Rock
Grade 16
6m Some 100m to the right is another fence, and 20m to the right across a boggy ground and a wee creek is an orange steep slab. Avoid the creek at the floor of the slab. Start on the right and climb delicately up the slab past one bolt a 2/3 height . Its easier to start on the left and traverse right below the bolt. If you fall clipping the bolt the landing is soft, but don’t drown!

Showing all routes 3 routes total

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Access: Having obtained permission from Mr Vosper, follow the fenceline behind his house up to the crag.

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Death or Glory
Grade 20
20m Behind a tree a thin crack leads to a roof. Better than it looks. An excellent climb on solid rock. Climb the thin crack (crux) to the roof. Traverse round the roof crack and finish up the crack in the wall above.
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Speed
Grade 17
20m Right of “Death or Glory” behind a cabbage tree. A prominent left slanting hand crack can be seen. Climb this to the top.
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Corridors of Power
Grade 22
20m Along left of “Death or Glory”, an offwidth crack climbs up through a roof obvious from the road. Many attempts have been made to lead this to date all have failed, through poor pain tolerance, after a high point a meter or so above the roof. All aspiring offwidth experts – here is your chance. Takes 5” 6” 7”..tubes ( I dare you!!..)