Piarere is situated in the Waikato between Cambridge and Tirau, near the junction of SH1 and SH29. The crag consists of two parallel cliffs, one each side of SH29. It has been described as New Zealand’s most British crag, located as it is on open farmland adjacent to a highway, a few minutes from a tea-room, and even with a pub not too far away. The rock is ignimbrite and, although generally friable in places, gives pleasant climbing mainly in cracks and chimneys. Cracks tend to have rounded edges and widen towards the top. The main cliff faces north and is an ideal place to climb in winter. Nowadays Piarere is eclipsed by the quality crags at Wharepapa. There is still potential for new routes at Piarere.
Access: Permission to climb must be obtained from the landowners. Remember, if you find a gate open leave it open; if you find it shut, close it after you and check that it is properly shut. When you have finished climbing please call in and tell the farmer you are leaving. Take all rubbish with you. Most of the climbs at Piarere are on the Southern Cliff, located on land owned either in full or in partnership by Frank Healy. His farm house is alongside SH29 some 4km east (towards Tauranga) from its junction with SH1, about 400m past the Hinuera Quarry entrance, on a bend, on the southern (cliff side) of the highway. There is a safe parking on the corner. Do not drive onto the farm. After Mr Healy’s permission has been obtained, walk down the race to the old milking sheds, turning left follow the race down the to the second hedgerow. From here head down to the rock following the hedge. At the rock turn left again and 50m or so will bring you to ‘The Spring’. All the climbs are described either from the left or from the right of The Spring. The reasons for this are that The Spring is in the middle of the crag, the best climbs are situated nearby, and it’s somewhere cool and damp to leave your beer. Climbs to the left of Late Night are on Maori land currently leased to Mr Duncan, who can be contacted by phone on Hinuere 791. There are only three climbs to date on the smaller northern cliff and permission must be sought from Mr Vosper, whose farmhouse is the first on the left past the quarry when coming from SH1.
Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. hosted By Cliff Ellery, written by Pete Manning
The climbs are described from left to right, opposite to the approach. The obvious chimney system above. The spring remains unclimbed . It could offer good caving , I mean climbing, but watch for the possible loose rock.
Access: Having obtained permission from Mr Vosper, follow the fenceline behind his house up to the crag.