Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 4 routes total

This is the dominant feature of the crag – a towering prow, overhanging at the bottom and 30 metres high. There are anchor rings and a good stance right at the top on the crest of The Buttress which serve the next four routes.

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Aviation
Grade 22
8 Bolt
Takes a corner line a few metres left of the main buttress. Scramble to the ledge and clip the first bolt, then haul up the undercut corner (crux) and step right to a ledge, then climb the left of two short corners above, then trending right to easier ground. Clip a bolt on the route to the right with a sling, and climb the groove past the last bolt to the anchor rings at the top of the buttress. Run-out at the top, but it's quite easy if you step right on to the prow. Eight bolts. Note: there is a dangerously loose hold near the first bolt.
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Outer Space
Grade 23
10 Bolt
An impressive line through the overhangs just left of the crest. Clip the first bolt and jump for a big pocket; up over some crumbly stuff to the main roof. Pull up on good spaced holds and pockets, moving left to the arete to gain the big ledge. Then up the bottomless corner and move right to a groove (watch for rope drag on the arete - use long quickdraws or two ropes). Awkward moves eventually lead to easier climbing on the slab, with a final technical section up the arete to the anchor bolts. Ten bolts.
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Eternal Optimism
Grade 25
10 Bolt
Direct line right up the prow of the main buttress, through some good-sized roofs. Ten bolts.
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Chronic Fatigue
Grade 22
9 Bolt
Climb a scaly lower corner and move right past the first bolt to a ledge, then up the overhanging left-facing corner to a rest. Continue up the wall, moving left past the fifth bolt to black rock in the corner. Continue to the top (with a tricky move at the top) and cross the ledge leftward to the anchors. Nine bolts.