Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 14 0 - 16 22 - 25


Slap and Tickle
Grade 15
3 Bolt
15m Between two chimneys is a slabby wall with three bolts. There are two lots of large pohutukawas at the top of this part of the cliff. This climb is below the eastern most tree. Climb easily past the first bolt to the ledge. Move right past the second bolt and up the outside of the chimney, past the third bolt, to belay on the pohutukawa tree.
Chimney Climb
Grade 10
25m Start at the lowest point of the chimney and climb easy ground into the chimney proper. Up the chimney to easy ledges, then the rib above.
JP Superdog
Grade 15
15m A broken hand crack on the left of a slabby wall. Climb past a small tree up to a large one and belay.
Suicide Wall
Grade 15
4 Bolt
15m A slabby wall up behind a big free-standing block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’. Access to the bottom is via a short easy gully to the right of the free-standing block. An excellent first bolt lead. Climb straight up past four bolts to belay on the pohutukawa.
Grade 12
15m The chimney finishing at a large tree.
Grunt = MC2
Grade 21
2 Bolt
15m A couple of metres to the right of ‘Suicide Wall’ and below the western pohutukawa, is a short steep wall with two bolts almost horizontal to each other. Traverse right past these two bolts then up past the top bolt on ‘The Appendix’ to the pohutukawa.
The Appendix
Grade 18
4 Bolt
20m A delicate edge (to the left of a chimney / corner) and capped by a steep wall. Four bolts. Climb the edge past two bolts, then a bulge to gain the upper wall and past two more bolts to belay on the pohutukawa.
Grade 22
15m Climb the slabby wall to the ledge at the base of overhanging section placing a wire or cam on the way or clip the first bolt of ‘The Appendix’. From the ledge clip the chain link bolt on the headwall then move up past this to clip, to the left the last bolt on ‘The Appendix’.
The Womb
Grade 13
15m The short corner just before the grassy bank, there is a chain link hanger on the left face at about half height. Climb the crack or face on the left until the chockstone, over and then the left face or squeeze up the crack.
Bird Can’t Fly On One Wing
Grade 18
3 Bolt
10m On the large block, 3 bolts - juggy and steep.
Farewell MMD
Grade 16
10m To the right of ‘Bird Can’t…’, climb the obvious line up the centre of the block.
Grade 18
2 Bolt
15m Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.
Grade 15
2 Bolt
15m Start on the edge, as for Twinge, but immediately step right onto the face, up past the first bolt to a ledge and a second bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.
Grade 14
15m The short crack facing the sea, Crux is the second section of the crack proper, tree belay back from the top.
Ariaan Makarena
Grade 18
15m This and the next climb are on the next cliff to the right, the western most cliff. At the foot of the first edge, to the right of a hand crack is a big sharp rock. From the top of this rock clip the first bolt. Climb the edge past a second bolt to the top and belay on the pohutukawa.
Grade 13
10m The leaning chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. Tree belay.
Piglet’s Dilemma
Grade 23
3 Bolt
15m On the slightly overhanging wall to the right of a chimney are three bolts. The climb has only one hard move, just above the second bolt. Belay on the pohutukawa. There are two further routes that are not fully bolted but deserve a mention as they aren’t described anywhere else. Forty or fifty metres to the right of ‘The Point’ is an easy chimney/gully. Just left of this gully is Dorje Direct.