Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

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Access: Often used as a route out of the Garden snow plateaus, the Perth is a big river in its own right and longer than the river it feeds into, the Whataroa. A major tributary, the Barlow, is the epitome of wilderness and seldom travelled. A track leads up the Perth to Scone Creek Hut and a swingbridge across the Perth a short distance beyond. All tracks cease here, and travel up valley is on the riverbed or bushbashing, depending on conditions. Sealy Pass, the northern slopes of the Butler Range, Stewart Saddle and Main Divide peaks north of it where the peaks are not particularly difficult but access is, all offer great transalpine and climbing trips. As does The Great Unknown. Whataroa to Scone Creek From the swingbridge over the Whataroa, the track up the Perth climbs to a forested terrace, following the boggy line of the old cattle track. It descends to the Perth at Hughes Creek. Historic Nolans Hut offers somewhere dry to stay just beyond, but expect basic. Maintained to a marked route standard, the track continues upvalley to Scone Hut (6 bunk), then over the Scone Creek bridge to a second bridge over the Perth itself giving access to Redfield Creek and The Great Unknown. All tracks cease here. Scone Creek to the upper Perth The true left is used. Travel varies considerably, depending on river levels. Use gravel and boulder beaches as much as possible, as the bush is scrubby and slow. Prospectors Creek can be difficult to cross. There is a reasonable option where this stream splits into two at the 600m contour. Shingle offers better travel in the riverbed around Teichelmann and Tainui Creeks. Cut the corner on the 600m terrace above Teichelmann, descending to near river level again near Tarn Creek. Above Adverse Creek, use the slip marked on the true left of the Perth and go around the south side of the last patch of scrub marked in the valley to the flats. Good campsites and open travel exist to the head of the Perth now. Normally, the river is easily crossed on these flats. Times Road to Scone Creek Hut Scone Creek Hut to the head of the Perth Adverse Creek to the Garden of Eden In low to average flows, crossing the Perth is practical near the Junction with Adverse Creek. Follow up the true left of Adverse to tussock and low scrub slopes. Continue sidling up on slopes above the stream until it flattens off just above the 1000m contour. The stony basin can now be followed up around to the north. Climb out in the head on the true left of the valley to reach the Gardens at about I35 163617. Adverse Creek was named by Pascoe's party in about 1935. Time: allow about 7 hrs up and 5 down. Eves Rib to the Garden of Eden This is a direct but relatively steep route on loose gravel and rock, and care will be needed. Higher up, snowslopes east of the ridge offer the most practical route, reaching the lip of the Garden approx 500m east of pt 2007m. Pt 2007 can also be approached, but rock is loose leading up to the knoll itself, and the descent directly north to the Garden is on good rock but a little scrambling and routefinding will be necessary. Perth Glacier to the Garden of Eden The Perth Valley and glacier itself can be used as a direct route to Perth Col, depending on conditions. Early in the summer, enough snow may lie on the glacier to follow it directly, as it feeds into the head of the valley slightly from the true right. More likely, from the valley floor begin on the true left of this ice tongue under bluffs and continue up gravel in a steep rocky gully ahead between bluffs that also has a cowlick of ice feeding into it from the shelf above. Rock is loose here and some scrambling will be required. Old snow cover would help. Gravel slopes under the cowlick lead up climbers left, onto a shoulder above the bluffs where the ice can be accessed again, at I35 244608. Descending, sidle onto a gravel shoulder above bluffs where the ice finishes on the true left of the main glacier and above bluffs at I35 244608. Sidle diagonally on down to the left through the bluffs over gravel and bedrock into a small eroding gully that quickly leads to gravel slopes and the valley floor. Watch for loose rocks. Bettison Stream A marked track leads from the true right of Scone Creek as shown on I35 to the bushline on the true right of Bettison Stream. Here, cairns on open scree lead past scrub to the tussock. Sidle upvalley at about 1200m until reasonable travel in the stream below appears at about I35 153541, then follow up the stream

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2113 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Main Divide Ridges
Grade 0
Traversed during a climb of Edison.
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North East Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the Havelock Valley, climb the North East Ridge on the true right of Edison Stream over several big but easy rock steps to the summit.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2337 m

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Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South East Ridge
Grade 2.75
From the Havelock Valley gain the Main Divide south of Rankin Peak, or by following the North East Ridge route on Rankin Peak. Traverse Rankin Peak and follow the Main Divide to the summit. The final 50 metres is on steep, tricky rock.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2123 m

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Whatgl 1Mtwhataroa

Mt Whataroa is one of the dramatic buttressed peaks visible on the Butler Range when looking up the Whataroa Valley from the highway.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Ice Lake
Grade 0
Access the névé of the Whataroa Glacier. Cross this and climb to the Butler Range, aiming for the saddle immediately east of Mt Whataroa. About 200 metres of rock scrambling leads to the summit.
NWB
North West Buttress
Grade 3
800m This 800-metre buttress is visible from the road bridge. Grass on the lower half of the route lets the climb down, but can be largely avoided by using a snow gully on the right. This gives access to a ramp/ledge leading out left onto the buttress proper. A difficult section of steep rock follows, where there is still some moss and grass. Eventually, solid rock climbing on schist slabs offers much better going. These lead to the summit crags. Climbing potential also exists on the pinnacle between Mt Whataroa and Tohunga Peak.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2014 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Hughes Creek
Grade 1
The Butler Range has also been approached from the Perth. An old cullers track up a scrubby spur east of Nolans Hut is now unfollowable. A route preferred by hunters these days uses Pauline Creek to access the upper basins of Hughes Creek. Hughes Creek itself can also be used directly. The creek can be followed right up, with a sidle around a gorge necessary between the 600- and 700-metre contours, and a rougher bouldery section below the big fork at the 760-metre contour. Alternatively, the first marked creek on the true right below the big fork offers relatively open travel through the scrub zone, leading up to Pt 1450 metres from the north-west and has also been used to access the upper basins of Hughes Creek. In the true right basin, about 300 metres up from forks at 980 metres, a reasonable bivvy rock is reported. To continue to the Butler Range, go up the gully opposite the bivvy rock until the col east of Mt Whataroa is reached, then scramble up the ridge to 2014 metres. Mt Whataroa can also be approached this way.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 1926 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North East Ridge
Grade 2
From the Whataroa Glacier sidle steep slopes, best under snow, to a rib off Whataroa Peak, and cross the snow gully beyond. Three rope-lengths on poor rock lead to the col between Tohunga and a sharp subsidiary of Whataroa Peak. A rock outcrop on the summit ridge can be traversed low on the Whataroa side. A reasonable route in suitable snow conditions, but otherwise pretty tricky. This party descended the obvious snow gully directly back to Ice Lake, which they don’t recommend.
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From Hughes Creek
Grade 1
From Nolans Hut in the Perth, access Hughes Creek and follow it up. Travel is reasonably good, but there is a gorge to sidle between the 600- and 700-metre contours and a rougher bouldery section below the forks at 760 metres. Continue south and head up a side creek in open going through scattered scrub from I35 063553 / BW17 964 936. This creek splits into two tiny parallel creeks draining from the peak. Continue south-east up the face to the summit. If traversing between Tohunga and Whataroa Peaks, a short vertical section of difficult rock east of the col between the peaks would probably require a rope.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1845 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge
Grade 1
From the Perth up the spur over Pt 1049 metres to the summit. Mind the scrub – it’s heinous. Old maps indicate the peak to be the higher 1901-metre one at the ridge junction, rather than the 1845-metre peak currently shown.
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