Alpine - 18 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75

The Macaulay River provides access to peaks of the Sibbald and Two Thumb Ranges east of the Main Divide. The Sibbald and northern Two Thumb Ranges are glaciated and best reached from the Macaulay Valley itself, while the southern Two Thumb Range is ice free and readily reached from North East Gorge Stream and tributaries. Huts Macaulay Hut (Mackenzie Alpine Trust, Tekapo) : This popular hut has 14 bunks, solar lights and a mountain radio. It is used extensively by the wider outdoors community and has relatively straightforward 4WD access. The Mackenzie Alpine Trust relies on donations for the hut’s upkeep and maintenance (paid in the honesty box or at Lake Tekapo Post Office). 4WD time from the northern end of Lilybank Road is 2 ½ hours.

Access: Public access exists along the true right of the Macaulay River. Travel up the valley by 4WD is possible from the northern end of Lilybank Road. From here find a suitable crossing point and follow the basic 4WD track, which goes as far as Macaulay Hut. If walking upriver, be aware that land on the true left is part of Mt Gerald Station. Contact the runholder (Michael Burtscher, phone 03 680 6512) for permission to cross the land and for route details.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Showing all routes 13 routes total

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Alpine - 13 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75

This tributary of the Macaulay River provides access to the eastern Two Thumb Range – a cluster of distinct rocky peaks surrounded by extensive scree slopes, with summits linked by ridges of variable quality. There is very little permanent snow and, in the height of summer, water can be scarce in the upper valleys. While climbing in the area in 1941, Tom Beckett with Pat and Bob Clark-Hall named several summits after ships that fought in the Second World War battle of the River Plate, a conflict in which many New Zealanders were involved. Public access exists on the true right of North East Gorge Stream, from the confluence with the Macaulay River. However, the most practical route is via Mt Gerald Station land on the true left. Contact the runholder for route details and permission (Michael Burtscher, phone 03 680 6512). Camping in tussock and minor scrub exists at the confluence of North East Gorge and Trojan Streams. Many routes from here involve a scree slog until the summit rocks are reached.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Showing all routes 1 route total 2319 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North West Ridge
Grade 1.25
Reach the North West Ridge from Chevalier Stream and scramble to the summit.

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South Face
Grade 1
Climb straightforward snow slopes from the head of Chevalier Stream to the short west ridge and follow this to the summit.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2327 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South Ridge
Grade 1
The South Ridge is readily accessible and provides an easy scramble to the summit
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East Ridge
Grade 1.25
Reached via a straightforward tramp up Trojan Stream, followed by a steep climb on to the ridge and a scramble to the summit.

Low Peak 2450m & High Peak 2540m

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From the west
Grade 1
From Trojan Stream walk up blocky scree to the summits.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2474 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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West Face
Grade 1.25
Climb steep scree to reach a steeply left-rising scree ledge leading directly to the summit.
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South Ridge
Grade 1.25
Climb rotten rock ridges and small ledges, utilising a gully on the eastern side to reach the summit.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2435 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge
Grade 1
After a straightforward climb to Cassandra Col, climb rotten rock on the North Ridge, bypassing the worst sections on scree.
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South West Ridge
Grade 1
Gain the ridge via a steep scramble from Iliad Basin, then scramble along a narrow and rotten rock ridge and traverse a short ice patch to the summit. The South West Ridge can also be reached via Odyssey Basin and the small hanging valley immediately south of Priam.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2454 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the head of Iliad Basin, climb to a small col and head east along a series of ledges to a small spur that leads to the summit.
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West Ridge
Grade 1.75
A straightforward climb up scree and rock from Iliad Basin. The final 100 metres or so is the crux and many of the problems can be passed on the north side.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2447 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North East Ridge
Grade 2
Reach the North East Ridge from Athene Col. Follow the ridge, sometimes using ledges on the north-west side. A short rock step approximately 100 metres from the summit is followed by good rock to the top.
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South Ridge
Grade 1.75
Follow the creek draining the south side of Electra, avoiding the two lower sections of bluffs. Then climb gullies and the broken ridge to the top.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

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Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75

Two Thumb Stream forms two gorges in its lower section before opening out to a bouldery valley and grassy flats. The lower of the two gorges is passable but an easier route exists high above the river on the true left. Contact the runholder for permission and route details (Michael Burtscher, phone 03 680 6512).

Access: Two Thumb Stream forms two gorges in its lower section before opening out to a bouldery valley and grassy flats. The lower of the two gorges is passable but an easier route exists high above the river on the true left. Contact the runholder for permission and route details (Michael Burtscher, phone 03 680 6512).

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2175 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South Ridge
Grade 1
From North East Gorge Stream gain the long South Ridge before bluffs on the eastern face are encountered, and follow the ridge to the top. Any apparent difficulties are readily avoided.
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From Two Thumb Stream
Grade 0
A straightforward climb, with occasional steep towers of rotten rock but no difficulties.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2327 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Two Thumb Stream
Grade 0
A rocky summit that can be reached from scree slopes immediately south of Electra.

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Two Thumb Stream
Grade 1.25
Both these peaks can be climbed from Two Thumb Stream by picking a route on scree and snow-grass through small bluffs and outcrops of steep, loose rock. They can also be linked as part of a ridge traverse.

Great Ski touring!

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Two Thumb Stream
Grade 1
Both these peaks can be climbed directly from Two Thumb Stream via long scree slopes, or included as part of a ridge traverse.