Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 561 routes total

Sports - 392 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 166 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Boulder - 3 routes - avg. grade V8 V2 - V3 V6+

Crags in the Wharepapa region

Showing all routes 136 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 127 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 2 routes - avg. grade V10 V6+
Map

Froggatt Edge was original found by Margot Harkness in 1990, a discovery that marked the start of the climbing migration away from Wharepapa South (Castle Rock). Luke Newnham was the first to put up climbs at Froggatt and kicked things off with, Monsterpiece Theatre, Bete Noire & Sunstrike, not a bad start! Luke then introduced the climbing world to Froggatt during the area’s first ever bouldering comp. Following this a small group of Auckland based climbers set about bolting and climbing this expanse of unclimbed rock and within a year there were 38 routes at the crag. When Pete Mannings “CNI Rock” was published in 1992 it included these 38 routes, it also listed the new route potential at Froggatt as being only “modest”. With this most moved onto develop some of the area’s other crag’s leaving Luke Newnham, Ton Snelder and Dave Vass to put up some of the crag’s harder lines. Andrew Wilson and co then pitched in and added a long list of first ascents. In 1996 Andrew Wilson then published a guide for Froggatt which include about 70 routes. The crag was re-bolted in 1997-98, during this re bolting a lot of the lines between routes were filled in and new areas like Slug Wall were opened up. By the time Dave Moorhouse’s guide was published in 1998 there were over 110 routes, not bad for a crag with modest new route potential. The next significant development at Froggatt was not climbing related, but rather a commercial development. The owner of “Castle Rock” brought Froggatt and began to develop both crags for commercial climbing purposes. The new owner set about transforming the crag ready for commercial use, scrub was removed, lines rebolted and paths and sign posts installed. However at the time this guide was printed any plans to charge for access had been put on hold, so with any luck the free access for climbers will continue.

Access: Froggatt Edge is about 3 minutes drive from Wharepapa South. From the school drive down Seafund Road and take the first turn on your left “Whatauri Road”. After about 1km you start to drop down a hill, continue down the hill then just before the base of the hill there is a gate on the right marked Froggatt. Drive through the gate, shutting it behind you, and continue down the farm track for 500m till you reach the crag. The best spot for parking is another 200m further on directly opposite the Red Block Area. At this stage permission is not required before climbing at Froggatt, however please remember you are on private property so please be courteous and respect the owners generosity

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz.

Showing all routes 18 routes total

Sports - 15 routes - avg. grade 25 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Holdon

Facing pond. Right along side of the Bete Noir Wall starting immediately right of the access gully, from left to right

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E-Grade Get a Real Grading System
Grade 15
4 Bolt
10m Done by some visiting pomy climbers. Climb the slab just less then vertical.
-
Shane In the Red Balloon
Grade 18
4 Bolt
15m Steep Slab. A tricky move to begin with, followed by pleasant climbing
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Direct Action
Grade 25
4 Bolt
15m Climb the face to the steep slab. A hard under-cling followed by some difficult moves leads to easier climbing higher up.
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Vroom Vroom Mentality
Grade 26
4 Bolt
15m A very difficult move near the base is followed by more technical climbing. Another difficult section through the small overhang then straight up to the DRB belay
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Going Ballistic
Grade 27
4 Bolt
20m Climb straight up the steep face just left of the corner crack.
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Hungover
Grade 20
20m The obvious left facing corner and crack. The crux is staying close enough to the crack to place pro. [Belay off trees, Pro: Mid size CD, Wires]
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The Lights Are On But Nobody’s Home
Grade 27
5 Bolt
20m Climbs the right hand face of Hangover. Even though well within reach don’t use the crack or opposing wall. A classic case of a contrived sports route pissing all over a natural line.
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Maddog Wine
Grade 29
5 Bolt
Start as for Built to Last, once on the ledge traverse left and climb the left hand line of bolts.
-
Built to Last
Grade 29
6 Bolt
20m Climb the over hanging wall on very small holds to the sloping ledge at half height. From here the route joins the line of Double Leaning Jowler climbing directly up the head wall above.
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Double Leaning Jowler
Grade 28
7 Bolt
20m A variation to Hold On to Your Face, see below. Start as for Hold On to Your Face then traverse out left after the 4th bolt and climbs the steep head wall just to the left of the arete.
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Hold On to Your Face
Grade 26
6 Bolt
20m Layback up the curving crack then traverse left at the top onto the face. Continue up and left, climbing the face just right of the arete.
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Lanky
Grade 25
6 Bolt
15m Starts as for Hold On to Your Face, but at the third bolt climb straight up the face.
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Higher Animals
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m As for the above 2 routes layback up the curving crack then mantel onto the ledge above (crux) continue straight up the head wall above keeping just left of the arete.
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Jim Bulger
Grade 20
4 Bolt
15m Bridge up the groove then climb the arete above.
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Down & Out
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m Climb to the first bolt of Jim Bulger, then step right. Continue to move right especially at the last bolt.
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A Blast From The Past
Grade 16
15m Bridge up the wide crack then “back and foot” the rest, (DBC belay, Pro: LCD, CD, Hex & slings)
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Reminiscing
Grade 23
10m Starts in the corner. The start moves are the crux and are before you can place any gear. Once you have reached the crack, the climbing eases off. (DRB belay, Pro: CD, W)
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Guba
Grade 22
4 Bolt
10m The short face just to the right of Reminiscing. Starts in the corner then veers right then up the face above.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Bnwall

When driving down the access track the first major cliff faces you see are the Hold onto your Face and the Bete Noir Walls. Climb up the hill, just left of the fence, to the base of the Bete Noir Wall.

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In Your Face
Grade 18
20m In Your Face a trad route right in the middle of sport climbing territory. Wide Bridging up the groove right of Safe Playing . Turn right at the overhang and then continue up the arete to the top of Ignimbrite. (Pro LCD,CD,W)
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Ignimbrite
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m Climb the face past 7 bolts to the top, DRB belay.
-
The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt
Grade 19
6 Bolt
18m Climb the face DRB belay,
-
Streetwise
Grade 19
6 Bolt
18m Starts in the groove and then climbs the over hanging face above.
-
Volcanic
Grade 19
7 Bolt
18m The line immediately left of the fence. Steep start moves then eases off higher up.
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Sun Strike
Grade 21
7 Bolt
10m Climb the line of bolts immediately above the fence. Move left onto the face then back right and follow the arete to the top
-
Ma Garta La Narta
Grade 25
4 Bolt
15m Starts off the left hand end of the ledge and climbs directly up the face to the right of the arete. The original line started as for Bete Noir and then traversed left at the second bolt.
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Bête Noire
Grade 23
5 Bolt
15m From the middle of the ledge climb straight up past 2 bolts then a couple of moves up & right (crux) onto the arete. Climb the face & shallow arete.
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Back to the Future
Grade 16
15m The crack system to the left of Safety Buffalo. (Pro, Trad & Tree belay)
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Safety Buffalo
Grade 24
4 Bolt
10m Scramble up on to the ledge, then climb the overhanging face above.

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16

The wall immediately opposite the Main Cliff with the large cave.

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What You See is What You Get
Grade 19
3 Bolt
15m Find the bush skirted pillar with a W shaped top, then sneak up from the left. Climb the edge past 3 bolts , on poorly cleaned rock. Has a Single bolt Belay.
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Hidden
Grade 16
3 Bolt
8m A route of unknown origin, climb the short face.
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Aller
Grade 15
10m The obvious crack line on the front of the buttress. One of the few crack climbs at Froggatt. A right tending hand crack. (Pro: CD)
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Jolly Green Giant
Grade 24
4 Bolt
12m On a smaller rock out crop further up the track a little. Hard move past the first couple of bolts then straight up the face to the top. (DBC belay).
-
Right Next Door to Hell
Grade 19
4 Bolt
12m This route was originally called Jump Start, which may give some clues to the nature of the climb.
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Highway To Hell
Grade 24
7 Bolt
24m On the walls and buttress left of the cave. Begins on the face then follows the arete out right onto the large ledge then continue to the top.
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Strife
Grade 26
3 Bolt
10m Starts on the right hand end of the cave wall. Climb the face starting off a scrubby ledge. Big reaches on reasonable holds. The easiest way to access this route is by abseiling in.

Showing all routes 26 routes total

Sports - 26 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 26+
Main 0

The routes on the Main Cliff start on the West facing wall immediately above the road. The routes are described from left to right.

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Shining Bright Despite the Plight
Grade 31
Was a project for a long time. A big scoop with calcite and old vines and lots of Sika holds. Very '90s French'.
-
Gomjabbar
Grade 20
2 Bolt
6m Small free standing buttress below and left of the Main Cliff.
-
Spotty and Super Ted Strike Again
Grade 20
4 Bolt
20m The gently overhanging face and right arete.
-
Last Night of the Poms
Grade 16
3 Bolt
8m Climb the face on small pockets past 3 bolts. (DRB belay)
-
One for the Boys Back Home
Grade 19
5 Bolt
15m Climb the face veering left near the top. Put up by a couple of English climbers while on a tour down under.
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Wall Flower
Grade 17
4 Bolt
8m Follow the 4 bolts up the wall tending left-ish at the steep bit.
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Blazing away
Grade 17
4 Bolt
8m Great heel-hooks. Climb the steep pocky face past 4 bolts and finish on the same ledge/cave system as White Christmas. (DRB belay)
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White Christmas
Grade 16
5 Bolt
15m The white right-facing corner, some of the cleanest rock around. Climb the corner and left wall to the generous belay ledge. Permanently dry, this route is very popular on rainy days. (DRB belay,
-
Burn
Grade 28
7 Bolt
20m Start up the line of Automatic Dour but break left at the second bolt and ascend the steep overhanging wall.
-
Automatic Dour
Grade 27
4 Bolt
15m Climbs the steep face and vague arete on small holds.
-
Be Happy
Grade 19
4 Bolt
15m The face immediately left of the arete.
-
One Mans Meat
Grade 14
5 Bolt
15m Climb the arete.
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Tulsa Time
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Gain the ledge 2 metres off the deck, then blast up the steep head wall to another ledge near the top. One more hard move gets you to the belay.
-
Powder Queen
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m Climb the corner then face up past 7 bolts, DRB belay.
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Terra Incognita
Grade 18
7 Bolt
25m Start in the corner as per Monsterpiece but once on the slab move left onto the arete. Continue up the arete then finish up the steep head wall. The Froggatt Edge classic.
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Monsterpiece Theatre
Grade 20
10 Bolt
25m The stunning corner line that started it all off at Froggatt. Climb the left facing corner and slab, move left at the roof, then once you have gained the lip of the roof traverse back right. You can climb straight up to this point, at about one grade harder. Pull over the roof onto the right arete then move right again higher up and climb straight up the middle of the head wall. A sustained route that used to require a very strong head and calm nerves, now it has been re-bolted with an additional 4 bolts , it just requires strong arms.
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Climatic Extension
Grade 19
11 Bolt
25m This is the direct finish to Climatic Conclusion, after the 7th bolt continue straight up the head wall, the right arete is in.
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Climatic Conclusion
Grade 17
7 Bolt
20m Climb up the arete past 7 bolts then exit out right into the gully. (DRB belay)
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Al Fresco
Grade 14
5 Bolt
20m Climb the left facing corner then goes right to the finish. (DRB belay,
-
Serife
Grade 16
5 Bolt
20m The arete to the left of Total Energy. Pronounced sheer-if-ay. (Bloody Teachers)
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Total Energy
Grade 19
5 Bolt
13m Climb the longer slab.
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Power Pack
Grade 18
3 Bolt
13m Climb the short slab.
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Thunder Blaster
Grade 17
7 Bolt
20m Climb the vertical face just to the left of the Bonne Anne arete. Easy climbing but with a very different and existing finish (crux).
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Bonne Anne
Grade 16
7 Bolt
20m Climbs the arete and face above. Depending on where the chinks in your armor are the crux is either the power moves at the base or the delicate slab move at the top.
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Roadweary
Grade 18
9 Bolt
20m Climb the shallow groove. The crux is climbing out of the groove and getting established on the wall above, but don’t relax too much, the moves up the slab will still keep you honest.
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Safe Playing
Grade 19
8 Bolt
20m Starts left of the arete and climbs straight up the just less than vertical face (crux). Move onto the arete at the 5th bolt and follow the arete to the top.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

MUAC Wall

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Birth Canal
Grade 10
7m To quote the words of the first ascentist, ”Apon exploring the overhang I noticed a tight entrance to a dirty chimney (how inviting!). I immediately needed to stuff myself into the hole to check it out a bit” Natural gear (tri-cams and small/ med cams) could be used to protect the pockets. DBC belay.
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Jump Start
Grade 20
4 Bolt
6m Hard boulder start then grade 17 slab. Starts just left of the birth canal entrance, jumping from the ground to a sharp hold just below a blunt arete. Heel hook left leg and mantle up, then follow bolt line (4 bolts) traversing edge of arete. Finish at DBC belay of Birth Canal.
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Lover's Leap
Grade 17
6m One "hard" move at the start. Left hand in a 2 finger pocket at head height and jumpwith right to nice fin on 120 the degree arete. Then smooth sailing up the slab to the shared anchors.
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MUAC's Big Day Out"
Grade 18
4 Bolt
8m Niceslab with small pockets left of bolts and cool fins right of bolts 4 bolts plus shared DBC belay,

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Red%20block

Continue down the main farm track, just over the next rise and on your right is a hill with 3 buttresses. The higher buttress & middle buttress (Mr & Mrs Enormous) and the red block buttress at the base. Routes described from left to right (from the base of the hill up) and the first route starts on the small west face of the red block buttress.

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Slapstick
Grade 22
4 Bolt
10m Starting from the boulder climb the face then slap your way up the right arete. Move left at the top onto the left arete. This route has been rebolted and the new hanging belay is right in the middle of the crux, so to savor all this climb has to offer, clip the belay and top out, belay off the original belay higher up.
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Turtle Power
Grade 20
4 Bolt
15m Around the corner on the south facing wall. Climb the middle of the red face. Hard moves at the start and finish.
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Ro Shambo
Grade 16
3 Bolt
10m Climb the arete on the right hand end of the lower wall. (DBC belay)
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Appetite For Destruction
Grade 20
3 Bolt
10m Climb the small right facing corner to the right of the roof, then up the small head wall.
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Totalling Dad’s Car
Grade 26
3 Bolt
8m The obvious roof. Climb through the roof and pull onto the short head wall above. (DRB, belay)
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Little Wee Baby Enormous
Grade 19
3 Bolt
10m Climb the left hand end of the middle tower
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Mrs Enormous
Grade 22
3 Bolt
10m Climb the right hand end of the middle tower.
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Mr Enormous
Grade 22
3 Bolt
10m Start between the boulder and the face. Climb the left hand end of the tower.
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Tiny Enormous
Grade 20
2 Bolt
10m Start off the large boulder and continue up the short head wall.
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Lad
Grade 23
2 Bolt
6m On a free standing pinnacle 10m to the right.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Temp

Slug Wall consists of a large 2 tiered wall with a large slug shaped boulder at the base. It is the result of a huge cleaning exercise involving large amounts of earth works as well as the standard slash and burn approach.

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Firestarter
Grade 17
6 Bolt
18m The far left hand line. Start in the corner then out onto the face to the small ledge then continue up the slab to the top.
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Slug
Grade 17
6 Bolt
15m Climb the face immediately left of the large ledge.
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Spiny Norman
Grade 16
6 Bolt
18m Just left of Teenage Mutant, and the last climb on the wall to cross the large ledge. Climb directly up the face, cross the ledge then continue up the head wall.
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Teenage Mutant
Grade 14
6 Bolt
18m Just left of Pyromania climb directly up the face, cross the ledge then continue up the head wall.
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Pyromania
Grade 16
6 Bolt
18m Just left of Ninja climb directly up the face, cross the ledge then continue up the head wall.
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Ninja
Grade 15
6 Bolt
18m Just left of Pyro Pete climb directly up the face, hard start, cross the ledge then up the head wall.
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Pyro Pete
Grade 17
6 Bolt
18m Start in the small left facing corner just to the left of the small overhang, climb up the slab onto the large ledge and continue up the head wall.
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Snarf
Grade 17
3 Bolt
8m Climb the steep little wall at the right hand end of Slug Wall, finishes at half height.
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Red Block Chimney
Grade 10
10m From the rear of the chimney climb up and around the large block then out right along the narrow rib to the summit.
-
Fire Bug Pete
Grade 16
3 Bolt
10m Climb the short face left of slapstick.

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 1min

From the main carpark, walk past the toilet towards Slug Wall and continue straight ahead directly up the hill into Bulge Gully.

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Pedo and the Pieman
Grade 29
1 Bolt
7m Exemplary hard Froggatt 2 finger pocket pulling. Preclip the very high first (only) bolt and don't blow the mantle.
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Are You A Happy Cow
Grade 22
3 Bolt
8m Climb the wave like wall through the corner/roof to the top.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Past Main Cliff. From the Red Block Area Continue down the farm track and take the well worn path on your right. The first 2 walls you come across are The Bring Your Daughter Wall on your right and the Little Spurt Wall on your left.

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Col's Traverse
Grade V11
Sometimes also called Paper Tiger. Colins project was from the stand start and he tried..And tried. And tried. Sharik sent it from the Stand start in 2004. That is Col's Traverse that he graded V10. Sharik sent it from the Sit Start and graded it V11. Known as Cols Traverse SS. Stu sent Cols Traverse SS in 2007. Originally took V11 but subsequently downgraded it to V10. Stu resends Cols traverse SS in 2010 and renames to Paper Tiger. JFM sends Cols Traverse in 2011 and says V9/V10 Liam Sends Cols traverse SS/Paper Tiger 2012 and says V11 after all.
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Mister Meaner
Grade V8

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Retour
Grade 12
5 Bolt
15m The low angle arete. Nice low angle climbing

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Littlesw

na

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Spurt
Grade 24
3 Bolt
10m Climb the small steep wall just left of the arete then move left onto the head wall. Climb straight up the middle of the face past 3 bolts to the top . (DBC belay)
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Swell
Grade 23
4 Bolt
10m Start as for Spurt but stay with the right arete then straight up the overhanging wall to the top.
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Brontosaurus Theory
Grade 24
4 Bolt
12m Climb through the overhang just right of the arete then continue up the steep head wall to the belay of Swell.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Byd

Directly opposite the Little Spurt Wall on the right hand side of the gully is the first major wall in Animal Biscuit Valley.

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Mister Daddy Long Legs
Grade 22
5 Bolt
20m Another quality line. Start up the small wall to the right of the cave then up the scoop. Climb through the scoop onto the rib above (crux) and layback the rib to the top.
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Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter
Grade 18
8 Bolt
25m A classic line that climbs the arete and steep head wall on large holds. A hard start with a another difficult section past the 3rd bolt, however the crux is right at the top, originally graded 17 this move is still considered hard for 18.
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Time Guardians of Destruction
Grade 24
6 Bolt
25m Starts in the same area as The Wrath of God but climbs straight up the black streak and up the head wall just to the right of the scrubby gully.
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The Wrath of God
Grade 23
7 Bolt
25m Climb the large scoop and slab then move left onto the head wall (crux) climb round to the right of the top arete to the belay.
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Slab of bolts
Grade 18
3 Bolt
8m Climb the slab past 3 bolts. DBC belay.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Byd 0

This little wall is just left and up from the Bring Your Daughter Wall . Access to the base is via a fixed rope. Once at the base of the wall it is advisable that you and your belayer tie in to the belay.

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Mutli-Level Living
Grade 10
3 Bolt
10m A nice little route up the left hand side of the cliff.
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Love Handles
Grade 14
5 Bolt
10m A great route for its grade. Climb straight up the middle of the wall past 5 bolts. (DRB belay)
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Crumberlina
Grade 12
5 Bolt
12m Climb up the right-hand side of the wall on scalloped holds.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Back down on ground level and just a few metres further up the gully is the centre piece of Animal Biscuit Valley, The Moon Boulder. This large buttress has climbs on all three side. On the south and west side (the Dark Side) there are the following 4 routes. Routes are described from left to right or from the base of the hill up.

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Hardon
Grade 23
2 Bolt
8m Starting in the overhanging scoop climb over the lip and onto the slab above. The line finishes at half height with at a DBC belay. (Pro 2 Bolts) The bolted head wall above is an open project.
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Dweezil Logic
Grade 24
5 Bolt
15m The next three routes all start up the hill round to the right, follow a rough track up to the base Just to the right. Climb up the centre of the overhanging face, a large “run out” to finish, shares the belay of Louder.
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Dark Side of the Moon Unit
Grade 21
3 Bolt
10m Steep bulging yellow wall. A right tending route which is the furthest route right.
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Louder
Grade 0
5 Bolt
15m A Froggatt test piece. Begin on the right hand end of the ledge, easier moves to start then traverse out right on steep rock then power through the last roof.
Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Moonb

The north side of Animal Biscuits main buttress, “The Moon Boulder”. If you have a good imagination or are short sighted this face sort of looks like Aussy.

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New Bits
Grade 16
3 Bolt
10m Climb the wall past 3 bolts (DBC belay)
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Eyeline
Grade 18
4 Bolt
15m Climb up the face and small corner in the middle of the wall.
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Cowabunga
Grade 18
4 Bolt
12m Climb the arete on the right hand end of the little face. A nice line.
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Supertwitch
Grade 18
5 Bolt
12m The right facing slab, can get a little greasy near the top.
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Moon Base Alpha
Grade 17
6 Bolt
20m Begins out left then straight up the face. DRB belay,
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Lunar Leopard
Grade 21
6 Bolt
20m Climb straight up the middle of the scoop then pull onto the head wall (crux). Easier climbing to the top.
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Lunatic
Grade 23
6 Bolt
20m A great boulder problem start, straight through the lower roof and onto the face (crux). One more hard move after the 1st bolt then easy climbing to the top.
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0 to 10 in 60
Grade 25
6m Boulder problem up face. Begins at ground level where bulging rock is closest to the rock. Move up to the single bolt lower off.
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Moon Unit
Grade 18
4 Bolt
10m This route starts at half height, on the sloping ledge. Move left then continue up easier ground above. (DBC belay, 4 bolts, 3 are naked)

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Opel

Further up the valley on the right hand side is another little face with a very distinctive wave on the right.

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All in a Mouse’s Night
Grade 17
3 Bolt
8m The face directly opposite Opel, on the outside of the cave.
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Minor Threat
Grade 29
4 Bolt
8m Originally climbed by jump starting just right of the first bolt, but can also be climbed by moving in from the left.
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Opel
Grade 23
3 Bolt
8m The face and blunt arete on the right hand end of this face. Climb up through the steep ground, the hard moves continue even thought the angle eases.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Dacave

Near the top of the valley right is Da Cave . There is a open project that starts up the slab on the west side of the buttress then goes through the roof.

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Bother
Grade 20
2 Bolt
6m A new line of unknown origin a couple of meters to the left of Don’t Bother.
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Don’t Bother
Grade 16
4 Bolt
10m Further to the left and round the corner. Climb up the face using the right arete. Despite the name this is not that bad a route, nice for the grade.
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Scooby-Doo Where are You
Grade 23
3 Bolt
10m Climb the overhanging arete on the left-hand edge of the cave, hard sharp moves. You can bridge out higher up to clip the bolt.
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Magnagenie
Grade 26
4 Bolt
15m The line immediately left of Genie.
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The Genie
Grade 24
5 Bolt
15m Climb the right hand side of the cave wall.
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Zoomers
Grade 20
4 Bolt
15m Start up the overhanging wall at the right hand end of Da Cave. Pull onto the slab and then though the top over hang.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Beerg

The next gully along from Animal Biscuit gully is the Beer Garden.

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Star Star Zipper Zipper
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m The routes on the right hand side. Climb the scoop then onto the ramp and up the overhanging face. Difficult start.
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Redback
Grade 26
3 Bolt
8m The arete on the end of the short wall.
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Terris
Grade 23
3 Bolt
7m The over hanging face
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Summer Song For Scotty
Grade 17
5 Bolt
12m On the left hand side of the gully. Climb the arete and face on the left most part of the wall.
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He Mans Revenge
Grade 21
5 Bolt
12m Start on the left hand side of the scoop then onto the face above.
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Falling Debris
Grade 12
5 Bolt
18m Climb the face 5m right of the last route.
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Behind The Line
Grade 17
6 Bolt
15m A few metres to the right is another large scoop. Starting on the left arete of the scoop.Start up the block then follow the crack then face to the top.
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Supervixen
Grade 26
6 Bolt
15m Climb straight up the middle of the blank scooped face, don’t veer left. Finish up the face above.
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Snails and Ginger Beer
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m Starting just right of the cave of Supervixen, Climb the arete and face.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Follow the farm track up to the base of a large boulder. There are a number of boulder problems on the wall immediately adjacent to the track. Further round to the left and up the hill is a steep over hanging face.

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Hi, How You Do’in
Grade 25
3 Bolt
10m The route on the right overhanging arete. Do the jump start move, then power up face and steep arete.
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Greed
Grade 22
3 Bolt
8m Climb the steep over hanging face.
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Pupuke Centre
Grade 15
3 Bolt
8m The right tending line up the slightly overhanging face.
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Lady Unwelcome
Grade 10
3 Bolt
8m Climb the slabby arete on the very left hand side of the boulder

Showing all routes 109 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 71 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 38 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Secretvly

“Secret Valley” is one of the crags within the Wharepapa South area, “Secret Valley” covers an extensive area of ignimbrite cliffs and spires with a good range of climbs suited to the more adventurous climber who likes to get away from the maddening crowds. It has not been developed for sport climbing and is non-commercial. Climbing Notes: Drinking water is available from fresh water springs on the true right of the stream, under “Crag X”, on a bend in the stream. A little further down, the stream falls over some boulders creating a pleasant spot for a swim (watch out for the toe hungry eels!). Some camping has also been permitted near the crags, a $2 donation is appreciated. History: “Secret Valley” was discovered in 1988, by a group of Hamilton climbers, in an attempt to find new crags, but was not climbed on until almost two years latter. With only a small number of climbers putting up the climbs, the number of climbs completed is not extensive, but they are of high quality.

Access: “Secret Valley” is found within Longsight Station at the end of Townsend Road, about 4km north of Wharepapa South. The Valley backs on to “Castle Rock” and the “Boulder Field”, but entry is not permitted over property boundaries. Permission to climb must be obtained from the Singh family, at either of the two houses off the end of Townsend Road. It has been usual to ask Jo at the second house ph 07-8727717 , or Guru at the first house, in person on the day you wish to enter their property. The local farmers have, so far, been very receptive to climbers using their rock, and the usual courtesies regarding private land and stock are expected. Please remove all your rubbish, be thoughtful of where you go to the toilet, no dogs, and leave gates as you found them. During early spring (August/September), be extra cautious due to lambing, and do not be surprised if permission to enter is refused. Walking access to “Secret Valley” is through the gate, just right of the second house. Continue up and round the hill to the left until the track is reached. Follow this track above the stream to the crags. Vehicle access is also possible, please ask for directions as the route is tricky. There are various parking spots depending on your vehicle and track conditions. It has been possible to drive all the way to the crags, but you must first check with the land owners.

Attribution: From the www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by Cliff Ellery, written by Grant Pearson:

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21

The first obvious wall, to the right above the track when entering “Secret Valley” from the main track. Huge potential for more routes exists here.

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Drastically Hip
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m About mid-way along “Assassination Wall” is a crack system on a high part of the wall. On the right of this is a very thin seam that leads up to short corner. Climb this line, then step out to the left after the corner to finish up the slab.
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Oranges And Lemons
Grade 14
9m An arete on the left end of a lichenous face, about 15 metres to the right of “Drastically Hip”. Getting down may be a problem.
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Clockwork Orange
Grade 13
9m The orange face 1 metre right of “Oranges and Lemons”. Exit as for previous climb.
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Bad Jelly the Bitch
Grade 14
5 Bolt
14m The slabby face about 10 metres right of “Clockwork Orange”, finishing on the slab below the top.
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Assassination Rhapsody
Grade 18
3 Bolt
13m A next slabby face, 5 metres right of “Bad Jelly The Bitch”, also finishing on a ledge just below the top. 3 bolts that do not take hangers, and bolt with fixed peg belay.
-
Momma & Poppa Hank
Grade 18
6 Bolt
18m Near the right hand end of “Assassination Wall” is another clean high area that has caught the imagination of climbers over the years. Follow the shallow corner to finish up the slab.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
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Following the track past “Assassination Wall”, round to the right, is the obvious gorge known as “The Ravine”. This area contains a number of buttresses, on both sides, at various levels with only a few of the many lines climbed. Routes are described counter-clockwise on their isolated buttress, starting on the right at the entrance to “The Ravine”. The routes on “Cosmic Wall” are described separately.

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Paranoiac-Critical Solitude
Grade 16
4 Bolt
8m The right hand face of the arete, marking the start of “The Ravine”. Excellent steep climb with heaps of protection and no pocks.
-
Expecting Pops
Grade 17
4 Bolt
10m Climbs the front face of the Pinacle 20m up and right of Paranoic-Critical Solution to chains. Named more so because Andrew found out he was to be a grandfather, rather than for the quality of the rock.
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ACCE
Grade 24
6 Bolt
15m At the top of the hill directly above “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude” are what look like large boulders past the end of “Assassination Wall”. Access is either up the gully just past “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude”, or over the top of “Assassination Wall”. The larger left hand “boulder” has a viciously overhanging arete on its right hand side. Start right of the arete then swing onto the arete (difficult). Power up the arete on big holds, move right near the top before crossing back (crux) and topping out. Originally cleaned, bolted by Allan Cox before Allan moved to Dunedin. (“Alan showed great vision here as this is one of the best climbs for its grade in the whole area. Cheers Alan I owe you one.” – Cliff)
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Ventura
Grade 19
5 Bolt
15m Climb the face to the left of ACCE. 5 bolts with a crux on the first section and then a second by the 4th bolt.
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Stalakdrama
Grade 17
7 Bolt
20m The main obvious arete about 100 metres up the track, from the gate, on the right. Classic arete climbing, swapping sides of the arete as you go. Abseil down the arete to avoid rope jams.
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Stanztrigger
Grade 17
15m Follow the crack on the left of “Stalakdrama”, with the crux at mid height. Protection from a full range of nuts and Friends. Belay as for “Stalakdrama”.
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Felicity
Grade 15
4 Bolt
8m Just past the “Stalakdrama” arete is a small face on the left of the road. Climb the centre of the face past the 4 bolts with hangers. Belay off the trees above.
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Cheap at Twice the Price
Grade 15
8m About 12 metres right of “Felicity” is face with crack running up it. Follow the line of the crack using medium wires for pro. Belay off the gorse bushes.
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Honking the Witch
Grade 17, 15
12 Bolt
1. 17m Climb the central rounded groove-line to chains at a small ledge on the left.
2. 18m Climb the bulging rock just left of the belay then up to another ledge. Move rightwards into the groove left of the prow. Climb this to chains on the right wall at the top (can lower from here). There is another set of chains on the block a few meters higher for a nice belay on top (abseil from here). From both higher sets of chains it is easy to return to the first belay chain. A 50m rope would be ok. A good introduction to multi-pitch climbing.
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The Witchdoctor's
Grade 20, 23
18 Bolt
1. 19m Climb the wall right of HTW, which steepens and there are tricky moves entering the niche above the bulge.
2. 16m Climb up rightwards to the left side of the prow. Move right to the edge, then climb this with difficult moves, which ease with the angle near the top. With rope stretch and no knots in the end of the rope the ground can be reached abseiling on a 60m rope from the top chains.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Cosmic

“Cosmic Wall” is a large obvious buttress, and detached pillar, overlooking “The Ravine”, on its northern side.

Access: Access is possible from the first steep grassy slope on the right, after passing the gate entering “The Ravine”. The next gully is steeper, but gives quicker, and easier access to the western face of “Cosmic Wall”. Alternatively, walk above “Assassination Wall” to the top of “Cosmic Wall”, which is marked by a large pine tree. The descriptions start on the left of the west face, finishing on the right of the east face.

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Dash or Crash
Grade 20
6 Bolt
15m Follow the central line of bolts up the sheer left section of the wall. 6 bolts with hangers, DBC belay. You had better dash up this one, otherwise your arms will pump and you will crash.
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Mystic Moon
Grade 23
4 Bolt
12m Follow the line of bolts up the centre of the wall, about 4 metres right of “Dash or Crash”.
-
Killer Bees
Grade 19
6 Bolt
13m To the right of “Mystic of Moon”, at about 4½ metres from the right hand end is a scoop. Climb the left hand edge of the scoop. 6 bolts, crux at the 3rd. A pillar and bolts for belay.
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Larvae Delinquents
Grade 14
9m Climb the right hand edge of the scoop 2½ metres right of “Killer Bees”. Finish 1 metre right of the bees nest. Apparently the bees are usually no problem (except on stinking hot days!). No bolts yet. You may be able to find your way to the top of the first pitch of “Bananas to the Beat”.
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Shanmir
Grade 18
4 Bolt
10m Climb the right hand arete of “Cosmic Wall”. 4 bolts with hangers, DBC on top, and a SBC at the base. Shanmir is Sanskrit for wisdom.
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Bananas to the Beat
Grade 15, 0
1. 25m Follow the crack that widens from small wires to a chimney. Avoid the chimney by finishing up the face to the right past a single bolt. The balayer should be anchored to small wires. Take small wires and Friends #3 and #4. Also take a hanger for the bolt. DBC belay on the large ledge.
2. Climb the easy short wall above to the top. Medium sized Friends can be useful in the crack.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Cosmic 0

The detached spire on the end of “Cosmic Wall”. You can try a Tyrollian Traverse from the top back onto “Cosmic Wall”!

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Oh to be Wise
Grade 14
4 Bolt
10m Scramble down to the base of the east side of the “Little Lost Arrow Spire” to the belay bolt. Follow the line of bolts to the top of the spire. 4 bolts, DBC belay/abseil, and SBC at the base.
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Variant
Grade 14
4 Bolt
7m Start up the slab on the north side of the spire (next to “Shanmir”), lean around to the left to clip the top bolt of “Oh to be Wise”, step left and up to the top. Feels exposed, but is the easiest way to the top.
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Lightning Strike
Grade 23
4 Bolt
11m Climbs the overhanging west side of the “Little Lost Arrow Spire”.

Showing all routes 29 routes total

Sports - 18 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 11 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Surreal 0Surplan

The “Surrealist Wall” is above the track, on the left, opposite the start of “The Ravine”. If you think the names are unusual, try looking for their name sakes in works of Salvador Dali. Some of the lines on the right hand side are still to be climbed.

Access: A track has been cut along the base of the cliff, with access from either end or several points straight up through the gorse. Descent can be made down the gully in the centre of the cliff, or around either end.

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Surrealist Manifesto
Grade 12
4 Bolt
10m There are two ribs on the far left end of “Surrealist Wall”. Climb the longer right rib and slab to the top.
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Shades of Night Descending
Grade 13
13m A left slanting groove, just left of the third arete on the left end of “Surrealist Wall”. Follow the arete using RP's for pro. Continue up the slab to the top.
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Persistence of Memory
Grade 11
3 Bolt
15m The arete on the right of” Shades of Night Descending”. Interesting rock formations, but do not break them! 3 bolts, DBC belay. Either abseil off, traverse off to the right, or continue up the gentle arete to the very top.
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Disintegration of the Persistence Of Memory
Grade 13
4 Bolt
15m The rounded groove just right of “Persistence of Memory”, finishing on the same rib.
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Persistence of Time
Grade 14
10m An obvious dark arete, right of “Persistence of Memory”. Nice climbing if sometimes fragile. Named after an Athrax Album. May be worth a clean and a couple of bolts
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Conquest of Irrational
Grade 14
18m About 20 metres right of “Persistence of Memory”, “Surrealist Wall” juts out, with a large ledge on top. Climb the left hand side of this buttress, up a line of large knobs and ledges. 3 bolts, and 2 thread runners. SBC and fixed peg belay at the back of the ledge. Either scramble off to the left or abseil off.
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Birth of Liquid Desires
Grade 12
15m The arete, right of “Conquest of Irrational”, starting from a higher level. 1 bolt, but use your nuts (#9 Rocks) to get to it. Belay at back of ledge. More difficult than it looks when you are still intoxicated!
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Inventions Of The Monsters
Grade 13
15m The corner 2 metres right of “Birth of Liquid Desires”. Avoid the dirty finish by traversing left, clip the bolt, and up the arete. Excellent protection in the crack. Belay as for previous climbs.
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Interpretations of Dreams
Grade 16
6 Bolt
25m Start up the face 2 metres right of “Inventions of The Monsters”. Continue up the obvious arete, above, to the top. 6 bolts, fourth has a fixed hanger. Belay anchor is the rock bollard, further back from the cliff, with a bolt to keep the rope from slipping off. The DBC is for top roping, not for belaying from the top.
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Young Virgin Autosodomised By Her Own Chastity
Grade 12
4 Bolt
18m Climb the slabby face, 2 metres right of “Interpretations Of Dreams”, finishing on the ledge. 4 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers, run out between the second and third. DBC belay. Either grovel off the top, or abseil off. Adam McMillan /
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Romper Stomper
Grade 16
2 Bolt
10m From the top of Out by Yourself, climb the short face to the left past two bolts. Belay as for “Interpretations of Dreams”.
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Out by Yourself
Grade 12
2 Bolt
8m About 5 metres right of the previous climb is a small rounded face. climb this with 2 bolts for protection. DBC belay. Either scramble off to the right, or climb a second pitch.
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Look Ma “No Teeth”
Grade 13
5m The short unprotected face above Out by Yourself. SBC belay.
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Wheelbarrow of Flesh
Grade 18
20m Start up the corner 15 metres right of “Out by Yourself”. Continue up the thin seam, to the large crack. Climb the under-side of the crack, until you can pull up on to the small ledge. finish on top of the slab. A full rack is required from #1 RP to #3.5 Friend. Double bolt belay.
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Fear And Trembling
Grade 18
4 Bolt
16m The face further right of “Wheelbarrow of Flesh”, past a large ledge. 1 double bolts, 3 single bolts which do not take hangers. DBC belay.
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The Eternal Enigma
Grade 17
6 Bolt
20m The rib, 4 metres, right of “Fear And Trembling”, at the left hand base to the descent gully. 6 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers. DBC belay.
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Designer Sports
Grade 24
6 Bolt
15m The bolted overhanging face to the right of “The Eternal Enigma”, on the left side of the descent gully. Start from the right. Continue past 6 bolts with hangers (plus some extra old bolts), on good sinkers. DBC belay.
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Garden Of Earthly Delights
Grade 13
2 Bolt
6m The descent gully, with steps, divides the cliff in two. The climbs are to the right of the gully. Garden Of Earthly Delights (13) 6m The corner on the right hand side of the descent gully. Step out right, and up, just below the top. 2 bolts, double bolt belay.
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Galacidalacidesoxyribonucleicacid
Grade 20
3 Bolt
12m The overhanging arete starting at the base of the descent gully. Start on the left of the arete, finishing on the right. 3 bolts with hangers, double bolt belay.
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Moo With a View
Grade 17
5 Bolt
12m The face right of “Galacidalacidesoxyribonucleicacid”, just past the skeleton of a cow hanging out of the rock. Much easier if the wall to the right is bridged. Well protected with 5 bolts. Double bolt belay.
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Illumined Pleasures
Grade 17
4 Bolt
12m Right of “Moo With a View” is a clean arete, just before a crack. Climb the arete using holds on either side. From the top platform, mount the top of “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep” to belay. 4 bolts without hangers. SBC belay. Originally bolted by Fraser McRobie in 1990.
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Accommodations of Desire
Grade 16
12m The crack between “Illumined Pleasures” and “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep”. Start up the ramp, then continue up the crack, past the bolts, to the top. A good climb for placing protection from small wires to #4 Friend. Belay as for “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep”.
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Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m The left of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up the easy ramp, then climb the groove, finishing on the left. 5 bolts, first does not take a hanger, the rest have fixed hangers. DBC belay. The name is taken from the book that the film “Blade Runner” was based on.
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A Short Walk
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m The right of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up the easy ramp, as for “Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep”, then move right after the first bolt and climb the right-hand groove. 5 bolts, but the first does not take a hanger. DBC belay.
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Nostalgic Echo
Grade 15
10m Groove and “S” shaped crack, in the middle of a buttress, about half way from the descent gully to the end of the crag. Mixed pro, from #1 RP to #3 Friend. Finish on the large ledge. SBC and fixed peg belay and abseil, as well as a DBC on the ledge above the climb.
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Metamorphosis of Narcissus
Grade 19
20m Start up the easy angle slab to the vertical crack, which veers left from mid-height. Continue to the top past a fixed peg. You have the choice of lowering off the bolt and chain, or grovelling over the top to the belay ledge. 1 bolt, does not take a hanger, 1 peg, DBC belay.
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Morphological Echo
Grade 15
20m The third to last of the main diagonal cracks, on the right of “Surrealist Wall”. Follow the vertical crack until it veers left. Continue straight up to join the next crack at the top. Take good selection of wires. 1 bolt, DBC belay.
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Philosophy of Conquest
Grade 17
22m The crack 3 metres right of “Morphological Echo”, before the chimney. Follow the crack all the way, with the crux at the bulge. Small and medium sized wires give good protection. 1 bolt, DBC belay.
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Dream Caused by the Flight of a Bee Round a Pomegranate a Second Before Awaking
Grade 16
15m The buttress on the right of “Philosophy of Conquest”. Climb through the groove in the bulge, then continue up, finishing on the right past a crack. 6 bolts, 2 have hangers. Take a #.5 Friend or #7 Rock for the crack. Either lower off the SBC, or scramble round the back of “Philosophy of Conquest” to belay. A consumer route, and Shane’s attempt at the longest route name in the world!

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
9596976488

Follow the grassy slope to the left (when facing) of “Surrealist Wall” until you cross a col, and see a large rock standing on its own down the other side, known as “The Castle”. This is well worth checking out while in the “Surrealist Wall” area, and (still) has the potential for more routes. Faces in all directions.

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Deepwood Motte
Grade 14
3 Bolt
9m Start at the highest point behind this face, left of TKR. Step into the base of the groove, then move right onto the wall, and climb up with a mantle move back into the groove. The easiest way to the top. Belay as for TKR.
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Three Kings Road
Grade 17
5 Bolt
10m Start by pulling over the bulging rock left of Sneaking Up the Sewer, then into the groove, and the slab above. Chains set back beyond the block on the ledge.
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Sneaking up the Sewer
Grade 20
5 Bolt
10m One of the many ways to capture a castle. The bolted scoop left of Joyous Gard, then the wall above.
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Joyous Gard
Grade 24
4 Bolt
10m Climbs the steep rib left of Great Mission chimney, on the NW face. Pull over the initial bulge and the crux is passing the third bolt.
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Great Mission
Grade 13
20m Climb the chimney that splits “The Castle” in two. Unless you are small, start up the lower side. A couple of large Friends are useful for protection.
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Lost Again
Grade 18
20m Start up the rib, to the right of the start of “Great Mission”, to the first ledge. Clip the bolt, then step left and climb the arete to another ledge. Either clip the other bolt and continue straight up the overhang (About 18) or, more easily, move left and up the left hand arete with a thread runner. 2 bolts. (Retrobolted with three bolts with hangers by Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson 10/01/16)
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Krak Des Chevaliers
Grade 20
6 Bolt
18m On the East Face of the Castle. Start at the right arete, climb leftwards to the runnel above the overhang, and then up to and over the next bulge to the final section and chains.
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Sleeping Giant Face
Grade 20
7 Bolt
18m The South Face, round to the right of Lost Again. Climb the initial wall to the groove/ramp (the Giants Nose). Bridge, then the headwall on pockets to chains.
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The King of the Castle
Grade 20
8 Bolt
20m Start a few meters right of Sleeping Giant Face. Climb up then diagonally rightwards to top on the highest tower, with fun finish to chains.
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Siege Engine
Grade 18
4 Bolt
11m 50m Beyond the Castle. is an embracing semi- tubular feature. Climb the left side at 18 to chains. The right variant (Siege Tower) was cleaned and bolted ground up by AW as the gorse around the back was thought best avoided, grade 16.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

From the bridge that leads to “Crag X”, follow the stream up-stream to three large buttresses, just before the property boundary. To hear the echo, stand on the rock below the main buttress. Potential for some hard routes exists here.

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Echo's Slab
Grade 8
10m Climb the slab under the left hand buttress. Difficult start.
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Geriatrix
Grade 19
15m Climb the layback crack that starts mid-way up “Echo's Slab”. 2 bolts with hangers, take #4 Camelot, triple bolt/chain belay.
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Youth
Grade 22
12 Bolt
22m Meander up the middle buttress starting up the right hand side of the arete to the ledge. Continue up the face, over the over-lap, finishing up the corner. 12 bolts with hangers, DBC belay. If you wonder who Youth is, it’s Christoph.
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Mud Wiggle
Grade 16
1 Bolt
20m Climb the crack around to the right of Youth. Layback the bulge, continue up the slab and finish on top. 1 bolt, belay as for Youth. Originally cleaned by Christoph Devenoges who then took a ground fall from the bulge.

Showing all routes 33 routes total

Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
CragxCx

The obvious large cliff, on the other side of the stream, opposite “Assassination Wall”. It is much less bushy than when the topo photo was taken.

Access: Access is up the grass slopes directly below the central area, easier from the left. A track to the left of the cliff leads to climbs on the second tier. The Moon On Ice area of the second tier is accessed up grass slopes right of the cliff, crossing a fence. Descent is down a vague track down past Moon on Ice area, but better to cross the gate at the top of the crag and then walk left along a fence line for 200m to a track on the left (looking in, easiest way off). Belay bolts and chains at the top of most older routes are not set up for lowering off or abseiling. After consulting the owners and if you have 4x4 vehicle, you can park just below this cliff, either side of the bridge. Description of climbs starts with the lower tier from left to right. To get off the left hand ledge above this tier, either abseil from the bolts, traverse left, or continue up another pitch. To get off the right hand ledge (below Moon On Ice), climb another pitch or walk down the grass slope to the base.

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Heavenly Creatures
Grade 14
12m The left hand most climb on the lower tier, to the left and around the corner from a manuka tree. Climb the face just right of an off-width. 4 bolts, not all take hangers. Thread, #4 Camelot, hex’s, and SBC for belay. Provides a first pitch to “Sorry Stu”.
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Heaven Up Here
Grade 16, 16
1. 20m Start up a crack to the right of the manuka bush and left of “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”, #1 Friend, then follow the face up till it overhangs. Step right to clip the fixed peg (with a long runner), then left again, and up to reach the ledge. 4 bolts, the last 2 do not take hangers. DBB on the right.
2. 20m Step left from the ledge, and up the knobbly rock past a bolt and thread (thin tape or cord) to the fixed peg. Step out right to the arete to get past the next two bolts, then left again before reaching the ledge with a thread runner. Finish directly above the last bolt. An escape exists to the SBC on the right from the ledge. Bolt/chain belay points.
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Jesus Was a Leprechaun
Grade 15
12m On the left end of the lower tier is an arete with soft yellow rock and corners either side. The one on the left is “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”. Climb the left facing corner, stepping on the arete at a small ledge before continuing up the final corner. Originally climbed on marginal pro using wires in the crack, but now has a bolt and fixed peg within reach from adjacent climbs. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.
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Teddy Bear
Grade 14
12m Climb the right facing corner to the right of “Jesus Was a Leprechaun”. Where the corner runs out, step left onto the face, and continue up the arete. 2 bolts, fixed peg, and wires in the crack. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge. This is the best route to the ledge.
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Not Much Ado About Nothing
Grade 11
7m Climb the left facing corner, to the right of “Teddy Bear”, to the ledge. Walk off to the right, poorly protected and not suitable for a beginners lead.
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Angels’ Landing
Grade 15
10m To the right, and at a higher level, of “Not Much Ado About Nothing” is a small face split by a crack. Climb the crack, using wires for pro, to the ledge. Bolt/chain, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.
Heaven is a Place
Witches Heaven
Grade 13, 20
13 Bolt
1. 10m Start as Heaven is a Place, up the seam in the yellow wall, moving left at the top to the cave. (Bolt/chain belay) 10m, 3b.
2. 20m Climb through the middle of the triangular overhang, and through steepish ground to the rib and ledge above. Finish up the edge of the wall left of HIAP to chains. 60m rope will reach the ground. Or you can belay on top off three naked bolts. A couple of longer quickdraws, and a 60cm sling just above the two thirds height ledge, make rope drag comfortable. 20m, 10b.
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Heaven is a Place
Grade 13, 14, 19
1. 10m Climb the face with thin seam on the right of “Angels’ Landing”. 2 bolts with hangers, triple bolt belay (wires required for hangers), or continue up either of the variations.
2. 15m Continue up the face, taking the right hand variation. Crux at top. 2 double bolts, 2 single bolts (take wires). DBC belay.
3. 10m Continue up the face to the top of the pillar. 2 bolts, triple bolt belay. You can avoid this pitch by traversing to the top pitch of “Moon on Ice”.
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Heaven is a Place (2nd pitch variation)
Grade 15
17m Start as for the previous variation, but head out left and up past the first bolt. The better variant. 5 bolts (take wires). DBC belay.
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Neighbouring On Verbose
Grade 15
12m Climb the chimney to the right of “Heaven is a Place”, using knobs, and blocks, for pro. Finish by going under the block in the chimney, Friend runner, and exiting out top. DBC belay.
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The Golden Goat
Grade 16
16m To the right of “Neighbouring On Verbose” is the obvious buttress with a crack that splits into two obvious off-widths. Climb to up to the junction, then follow the left off-width. Take your big pro. DBC belay.
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Down and Dirty with Cupid
Grade 16
16m Follow the right off-width of the “Golden Goat”. Take your big pro. DBC belay. Was there some romance this Valentines day?
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Bluebeard
Grade 14
20m Climb the obvious right facing corner, with the ledge at about two thirds height, to the right of “The Golden Goat”. Protection in the crack with medium to large Friends. Step left at the top to #1.5 Friend placement, and finish up the grass. DBC belay.
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If I Should Fall From Grace with God
Grade 15
20m Start up the corner/crack to the right of “Bluebeard” stepping left to get onto the slab. Traverse left to the next corner, climb the corner stepping right to get over the block at the top. Protection in the cracks with Friends and Wires. DBC belay.
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Gardening as You Go
Grade 10
20m The easy angled right hand most arete. Climb to the ledge, then continue to the left over the steps up to the top of “If I Should Fall From Grace with God”. Protection in the cracks with medium to large friends, also has two bolts that were added when the route was cleaned two years after the first ascent. DBC belay. Continue up “Heaven’s Gate” for an easy three pitch climb.
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Sacrifice Of Twelve Burning Tiger Giraffe
Grade 17
6 Bolt
12m The second tier starts well to the left of the lower tier by following the track around past the previous climbs. It also continues to the right of the lower tier, where a track crosses the fence and continues to the top. Some of the climbs that start from the ledge are best accessed by climbing a pitch on the lower tier. Follow the track around to the left, and up, and left again past Ripe, till the last rib before the top. On the left is a small buttress behind a mahoe tree. Climb the face, stepping left onto the arete to finish on top. 6 bolts without hangers, DBC belay.
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Ripe
Grade 19
12m On the track to “Sacrifice of Twelve Burning Tiger Giraffe”, you pass an obvious face and arete on the last obvious buttress. Climb the line up the face past the bolts. The climb was well ripened by the time it was climbed.
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The Crack
Grade 14
10m Around the arete to the left of “Naked Buzz” is a distinct crack, climb it. Massive bolt belay.
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John’s Climb
Grade 17
12m The face between “The Crack” and the arete left of “Naked Buzz”. 5 bolts, and a horizontal #3 Friend placement, massive bolt belay.
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Naked Buzz
Grade 15
6 Bolt
12m Above the step on the track to “Ripe” is a buttress with several features. Climb the face on the left side of the buttress. 6 bolts with hangers, massive bolt belay. Something about a swarm of bees while Adam was stripped off had an impact on the name of this climb.
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Picnic in the Jungle
Grade 10
20m To the right of “Naked Buzz”, and on the left edge of “Sorry Stu” is a groove that leads into a vegetated gut. Climb the groove to the tree at the top of the loose flake. Continue leaping from tree to tree to the top.
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Sorry Stu
Grade 17
15m Follow the ledge, to the right of “Naked Buzz”, to the last buttress before the second pitch of “Heaven Up Here”. Climb the overhanging buttress on good holds to the top. 5 bolts (the first and last need wires, while the rest have fixed hangers), DBC belay.
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Where Angels Fear to Tread
Grade 19, 14
3 Bolt
1. 20m Open Project
2. 10m Step out right, past the arete, and finish straight up the corner to the top of the crag. 3 naked bolts, DBC belay.
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Heaven’s Gate
Grade 11
4 Bolt
15m On the second tier start from the ledge approached from the right. Climb the obvious left leaning slab on the right of “Crag X”. 4 naked bolts, DBC belay at top and bottom. Start with “Gardening as You Go” and finish with the top pitch of “Moon on Ice” to create an easy three pitch route.
Moon on Ice
Sinister Clown
Grade 21
4 Bolt
10m Left of To Hell and Back. Climb the shallow right facing groove then move left to follow the black streak up the slightly overhanging wall, to DBC.
Moon on Ice
To Hell and Back
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m This was a long term unfinished project up the wall left of Moon on Ice's first pitch, to a shared lower off.
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Moon on Ice
Grade 17, 6
6 Bolt
1. 20m Start up the slab and traverse up and right to the arete, or climb the boulder problem crack with a wire for protection. Climb the arete finishing on the pedestal. 6 bolts, first does not take a hanger, the rest have fixed hangers. DBC belay.
2. 15m Climb the easy slab/arete to the top of a large block. SBC belay.
Moon On Ice
Lichenophrope
Grade 18
7 Bolt
17m On the wall right of Moon On Ice, starting by a rock spike in the ground. Climb the flake into the overhanging groove. A tricky mantel leads to a slabby wall to finish at DBC.
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Dave's Corner
Grade 15
12m The corner amongst the trees, to the right of “Moon On Ice”. Thread belay.
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Red Wine and Crayfish
Grade 15
5 Bolt
15m Further right of the second tier of “Crag X” are a number of buttresses at a high level. You can traverse around to them, but it’s best to follow the road through the gate and up the hill. The road switches back so it provides easy access to both the top and bottom to the following climbs. On the buttress second from the right, left of “Ivan the Terrific”. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, left around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the wide scoop left of the arete and onto the face and slab. 5 bolts with hangers.
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Ivan the Terrific
Grade 17
5 Bolt
15m The obvious arete on the buttress second from the right. Climb the overhanging boulder problem start and continue up the arete. 5 bolts with hangers.
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Solid Pleasure
Grade 17
5 Bolt
12m On the furthermost buttress on the right. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, then right around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the face between the two pungas. 5 bolts with hangers DBC belay.
Where Angels Fear to Tread
Hallucinating Angels
Grade 20
9 Bolt
18m Best accessed as Witches Heaven and traverse 7m left from its belay (to DBB). Climbs the steep featured wall left of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Easier ground leads to a steep finish right of Heaven Up Here, to DBC lower off/ abseil.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 9 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 11 0 - 16

“The Amphitheatre” is the valley that follows the farm track to the left of “Crag X”. Some bouldering has been done in the amphitheatre itself, while the spires above have been climbed.

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Biggus Dickus
Grade 7
The larger of the two spires, above the amphitheater, provides an easy route to the top where a DBC provides top toping of the overhanging faces.
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Littleus Dickus
Grade 9
The smaller, lower, spire is slightly harder to get to the top of. No anchors on this one.
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Gastric Wind
Grade 9
5m Further up the valley, near the bridge, are the following climbs. Grovel up the chimney at the lowest end of the buttress, next to the bridge. Enter from behind the tree. To get down, grovel again!
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Windrush
Grade 11
6m Climb the crack to the left of “Gastric Wind”. Good pro in the crack. Bolt and SBC belay/abseil.
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Windtunnel
Grade 18
3 Bolt
10m Climb the face to the left of “Windrush”, taking care with the top holds. 3 bolts, double bolt belay.

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Follow the road past the houses, over the bridge, past the wool shed and poplars, until it peters out. Continue straight ahead and the road reappears and follows past “Road Side Crag” on the left.

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Diabolo Libido
Grade 18
3 Bolt
9m The obvious pillar at the start of “Road Side Crag”. Relatively easy except for the crux. 3 bolts, the one for the crux has a hanger. DBC.
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Fanatical Indoctrination
Grade 16
3 Bolt
8m The end buttress of the see through crack with a line of bolts. DBC.
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See Through
Grade 16
7m A short classic right facing corner. Good protection in the see through crack. DBC.

Showing all routes 34 routes total 150 m

Sports - 26 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Gower

Stand on top of Pinnacle at Smiths and you’ll see a cliff-line marching off into the distance. Rich pickings indeed for any buccaneer willing to storm the ramparts with quickdraws at the ready and a bolt drill between the teeth.

Access: Access: Ask at Bryce’s for latest access information. Parking: Park by bridge on Seafund Rd Access to Gower is from the East side of the river, just before Sheridan Hills when driving from Wharepapa South. Park before the bridge and walk along a fishermans’ track for about 15 minutes until you can see the cliff on your left. Walk directly up to the farm road at the bottom of the cliff - you can literally step off the road onto the rock. The first outcrop has 5 routes, the rest are scattered about the length of the cliff, some near the road and others up into the bush. Gower has some exceptionally good climbs. Lex Talionus is a superb arete climb, and The Forks is a sport-climbers paradise with a string of overhanging routes on beautiful hard rock. NOTE:!!! as with any property please insure all gates are left as you find them. One open gate could cause thousands of dollars worth of damage if stock get into the crop paddocks, so be extra vigilant.

Attribution: Edited in from www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by Cliff Ellery. Written by Michael Camilleri.

Showing all routes 2 routes total

Only a couple of routes here so far, but potential for some more and some bouldering. The pinnacle split by a prominent crack has two crack climbs.

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Boco
Grade 17
10m Climb the slightly overhanging hand crack. The top lip is a little friable, like Turtle Power used to be before they all broke off. Named after Bryces fat cat (the one that pissed in his gumboots that morning – anyone want a cat?). All natural gear and DBC belay.
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Bimbo
Grade 16
10m Climb the crack on the LH side of the pinnacle. Starts tight at the bottom and goes to wide fists at the top. Named after Bryces other cat. All natural gear and DBC belay.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Lowerw

na

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User Friendly
Grade 17
7 Bolt
15m Climb the laid-back face to the left of the buttress: big pockets, hard rock. What more could you want?
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Sly Bandits
Grade 19
17m Climb the buttress at the LH end of the wall. Technical moves supported by 4 naked bolts and #3, #3.5 and #4 friend in the big horizontal crack. DBC belay.
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Across the River
Grade 18
6 Bolt
17m 4m to the right is a face and buttress: Climb the face up to a hanging buttress, finishing right at the top to a TBC belay.
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Double Trouble
Grade 22
5 Bolt
19m The face and corner crack. The climbing is easy up to the large ledge, then it gets steep real fast! Move left at the top before pulling over to the TBC belay. 5 naked bolts.
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Hop, Skip, and Jump
Grade 16
15m Climb the corner all on natural gear, mainly large wires but a friend or two might work. Must have been the end of a long day, as no belay was placed. Climb up to a likely looking tree for a belay, or place your own.
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Lex Talionus
Grade 23
5 Bolt
17m A stunning arete. The crux is in two parts: 1) clipping the 5th bolt. 2) climbing past it. 5 bolts. DBC belay.
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The Good Life
Grade 17
17m A couple of meters right A thin left-tending crackline, climbed using natural gear. Move left at the top, protected by a sling runner, to a DBC belay
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Daisychain
Grade 19
12m Fifty meters right is another smaller outcrop. The major feature is an overhanging corner: Climb the corner using mainly mid to large wires and a few small friends. The rock is hard so the placements are usually good. Exit left to a DBC belay.
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Goodbye Winter
Grade 18
3 Bolt
8m The thin crack to the right. Climb the thin crack line. 3 bolts with habers, DBC belay on the left at the top.

Showing all routes 13 routes total

Sports - 11 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16
Wackey

The track comes out 15m left of the chimney Dirty Dave Does It Again.

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Inclination
Grade 18
5 Bolt
20m Down at the other end of the cliff about 20 m to the left of the access track. Climb the steep headwall left of the Declination, pulling up on big holds to the slab. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Declination
Grade 16
20m Start in the deep corner/cave, climb up through the chimney (crux) then clip the bolt at the edge. You may be able to place some wires in the crack below the first bolt. Exit the chimney onto a slab and another bolt, then easy moves up the slab (can be protected with mid-size wires) past the final bolt to a DBC belay.
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Sunset Slab
Grade 17
6 Bolt
20m Start up the arete to the right of Declination, then delicate face moves up a steep slab. Try to stay on line for the highest point on the rock. 6 bolts and a belay from gorse bushes.
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Lost Gumboot Groove
Grade 17
4 Bolt
15m The thin snaking crack about 15 m left of the chimney. Bridge past the groove at the bottom, up to the headwall (crux). 4 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Dirty Dave Does It Again
Grade 14
10m A classic chimney reminiscent of the bottom pitch of Tibia. Gain the chimney by bridging up the corner, placing a mid sized wire as your only piece of protection. The chimney is a tight fit, so knee and arm bars are the way to go. DBC belay.
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Handle With Care
Grade 18
5 Bolt
12m Bridge the shallow groove, using the arete for hand-holds. Bridge into the corner at the top. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Summit Lust
Grade 18
6 Bolt
15m Climb the black streak. Easiest to start low down from the right. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. 6 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Jacinta Gilbert
Grade 16
6 Bolt
15m Start on the RH side of the arete up the steep wall, and move left on to the arete. The crux is near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.
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Mates Rates
Grade 19
6 Bolt
15m Climb the steep face, using the arete. The crux is crossing over to the RH arete near the top. Six bolts and a DBC belay.
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Back ‘N Foot
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m Walk 20m to the right to an imposing overhanging wall. The chimney at the left of the wall. Climb the honeycombed curving corner. Some of the honeycombed rock is a bit brittle. Six bolts and a tree belay. Nice climbing.
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Three Day Arete
Grade 26
5 Bolt
15m Climb the arete and thin crack, then dynamic moves and high steps get you up the steep arete and headwall. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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2 Hard, 3 Bolts
Grade 24
3 Bolt
8m Kindly donated by Bryce Martin. Three bolts and a DBC belay.
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Electric Magpie
Grade 15
3 Bolt
15m From the right hand end of Wacky Wall scramble round the base of the cliff. Stand on a small trunk and climb the face arete and ledge. DBC Belay & 3 bolts.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Theforks

This cliff is at the right-hand end of the crag, directly opposite the fork in the river.

Access: Access is from the top. The only easy way to the top is at the far left-hand end of the crag, from here make your way back along the top to the end paddock. A rough track, which starts by a couple of Manuka trees, leads out onto the top of the buttress. Either abseil in (DBC belay) or make your way down the access gully past Supa Mira Fiori and Slacker, and around to the front of the buttress. The climbs are described from the far left hand end

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Group Dynamics
Grade 20
5 Bolt
20m On the buttress out to your left. Bridge across the deep crack, then up through a series of mantle moves to finish up the arete. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Way Out
Grade 14
2 Bolt
15m On an early visit to the area (before the track was cut), and after an hour of struggling through the gorse, box-thorn, and blackberry, soloing a grade 14 chimney was a very attractive means of escape. A nice chimney, but unprotected except for the first couple of bolts of As Good As It Gets.
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As Good As It Gets
Grade 22
9 Bolt
20m Simply brilliant! Steep, steep, steep. Climb the black, overhanging wall. 9 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Crossing the Line
Grade 22
9 Bolt
20m The overhanging corner in the middle of the Black wall. Climb easy ground to the bottom of the corner. Bridging the corner get progressively more difficult and strenuous, until you are forced to cut loose and climb the right face. Pull up and over the lip to exit up an easy head wall. Nine bolts and a DBC belay.
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Vying for Space
Grade 22
6 Bolt
20m Climb the overhanging face. Six bolts and a DBC belay. The crux is clipping the fifth bolt.
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A Bolt to No Where
Grade 22
8 Bolt
22m Climb the steep face between the two aretes. Start up the right arete, then cross the face onto the left arete. Pull up onto the head wall (crux), finish up the wall and arete. Eight bolts and a DBC belay.
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Abandoned Project (28+)
Grade 0
Through the cave in the rock is an abandoned project. It is partially bolted.
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Supa Mira Fiori
Grade 26
6 Bolt
15m Around 25 metres to the right and up a gully are two other routes on the LH wall. Climb the face.
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Slacker
Grade 25
5 Bolt
15m Go for a heinous dyno to start - if the ground erodes you can add a grade or two!
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Sucker
Grade 19
20m A prominent corner and slab 50m to the right of the gully. So called when a supposed easy slab turned into something harder. Bolts??

Showing all routes 23 routes total

Sports - 18 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Hall

The first inhabitants of these strange rock formations were from a far off cragless land known as Palmerston. The Masseyites as they refer to themselves, occupied the crag for a relatively short period before they mysteriously disappeared, some say they were wiped out by a giant meteor, others say they migrated down south, lured by the promise of an encroaching ice age. Little is known about these people and all that remains to this day is a few bits of their primitive hardware. While out walking in the wilderness the Messiah “Dave” wandered across this forgotten crag and was suitably impressed with what he saw. Upon his return he told his disciples and together they planned their pilgrimage to this new land. However it came to pass that Dave had to return to Blenheim to pay his taxes or something, and while he was away his disciples unable to contain themselves, pillaged the new crag climbing every crack and grid bolting every face. Halls is a great little spot, sure it’s a bit of a walk in, but once you are there you’re rewarded with some fantastic climbing on good clean rock. Best of all its quite away from crowds and has its own swimming hole.

Access: Halls as the name suggests is located on James Hall’s property, however access to the crag is via Len Smiths farm, see location and access details for Smiths Rock. Having phoned James Hall and asked for permission, sign in at Smith Rock and park by the Milking shed as per normal. From the milking shed head straight ahead down the farm race to the bridge. Walk across the bridge then follow the river upstream for about 800m till you arrive at the crag, Sunday wall is the long cliff face on the other side of the river, see map. Land Owners Name: James Hall Phone Number: 07 8722 846 Access: Phone, please leave a message on the answer phone if no one home.

Attribution: Copied from www.freeclimb.co.nz. Written by Mike Camilleri & Cliff Ellery

Showing all routes 12 routes total

Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sunday

All the routes are 12-15m high.

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Sunday Voices
Grade 18
5 Bolt
Right facing face with 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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K2
Grade 17
2 Bolt
Climb the crack immediately right of Sunday Voices. Exit right at the top and climb past 2 bolts to a DBC belay.
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Placemaker
Grade 17
Climb the thin crack. One bolt, and share the belay of K2.
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Riverdance
Grade 21
7 Bolt

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In the Footsteps of Dave
Grade 16
Climb the thin crack up to the trees, then the face on your left. All natural gear, especially the tree belay.
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Buckets of Rain
Grade 16
5m The face immediately left of Backdoor Beauty. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Backdoor Beauty
Grade 16
Climb the wide, clean, crack. Exit right onto the face and climb past two bolts to a DBC belay.
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Birdy Hop
Grade 19
6 Bolt
The face immediately right of Backdoor Beauty. 5 bolts plus clip the top bolt and belay of Backdoor Beauty.
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Fourteen at Most
Grade 20
Climb the left leaning, thin crack, exit left and up the face to a DBC belay. All natural gear, and the crux is low down, so make it good.
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Breathe In
Grade 15
5 Bolt
Climb the shallow, square, left tending groove. 5 bolts and a DBC belay up an to the right.
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Mudlark
Grade 16
4 Bolt
The left facing corner. 4 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Pretending
Grade 15
Climb the right hand face of the buttress, and exit left and up to a DBC belay.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Waterfall

Right of Sunday Wall and around the corner is Waterfall Wall.

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Ding Dong Hell
Grade 18
5 Bolt
10m Short climb, just left of a spike in the middle of the buttress. 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Snakeline
Grade 18
7 Bolt
15m The best line on the wall: steep and overhanging, with lovely pocs. 7 bolts +DBC belay.
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Pups Plaything
Grade 17
15m Climb the deep corner to gain a crack near the top. 4 bolts and a couple of midsized cams for the user-friendly crack. DBC belay on the RH headwall.
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Keep On Keeping On
Grade 18
6 Bolt
15m 6 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Bite the Bullet
Grade 19
3 Bolt
12m The first line at the head of the valley. 3 bolts + DBC belay. Harder than it looks.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 10 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

On the other side of the river and directly opposite Sunday Wall is The Arches. There are at least 3 other bolted Massey routes here, done by some people from Massey who didn’t give any route info. Under the arch, just left of Archery is the partial line of bolts of an abandoned project, author unknown. On the other side of the gully, 7m up from a boulder are two bolted routes, one up each side of an arete. Climb them as you find them, as the info is not reliable.

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Archery
Grade 22
6 Bolt
15m Climb the backside of the big arch. Climb the RHS then traverse across the arch to top out on the LHS. 6 bolts and a DBC belay. Unique, strenuous and with good holds. A must do if you can.
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Arch Rival
Grade 24
6 Bolt
12m Climb the LHS in the corner of the backside of the big arch. Share the belay of Archery.
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Massey Route #1
Grade 0
Climb the LH side of the arete. A few bolts and a DBC belay.
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Massey Route #2
Grade 0
Climb the RH side of the arete. A few more bolts and a DBC belay.
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Massey Route #3
Grade 0
3 Bolt
10m further down the hill is another route on a scalloped outcrop. Climb the scalloped face. 3 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Rough as Guts
Grade 19
4 Bolt
At the right hand end of the Massey Routes. Start at the left hand of the cave, climb pasy first bolt then climb head wall. DBC Belay (Pro 4 Bolts)

Showing all routes 48 routes total

Sports - 44 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Sheridan

Ross McGarva and John Jamieson were the first climbers to visit Sheridan Hills in March of 1991. Bryce Martin tagged along on their second trip when they did their first climb, Hotter Than a Very Hot Thing, adding one of his own, Hannah Louise, on the same day. Bryce returned with Dave Garrity and they climbed “Arms Control” and “Canard” on their first visit, then with regular visits through the winter added a further 36 routes. Come spring and the light-weights came out to play: first Craig Miller for a brief stint before emigrating to Canada, and then a team of newbie apprentices: Cliff Ellery, Dean Maxwell, and Michael Camilleri.

Access: Arnold Baker is happy to let climbers on his land and only asks that you check at Bryce’s café before hand, should there be any temporary restrictions. If you are an instruction group or are in a party larger than 6 please call and ask permission from Arnold before climbing. Land Owner: Arnold Baker Phone Number: (07) 872 2747 Access: Access may be denied or restricted during lambing, September through to August. Parking: Park off to the side of the road opposite the crag taking care not to block any gates.

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. hosted by Cliff Ellery, written by Michael Camilleri.

Showing all routes 11 routes total

Sports - 10 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 21 17 - 21
Western

na

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Shirty Arete
Grade 15
3 Bolt
12m The arete and face left of Boot Wall. Climb the arete before moving out left near the top. 3 naked bolts and the same belay as Boot Wall.
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Boot Wall
Grade 16
3 Bolt
12m Hidden on the north side of the hill around left from Still Red. Look for a slabby buttress with a short steep headwall. Boot Wall climbs the face to the right of the arete. 3 naked bolts, belay off a large fallen pine tree.
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Still Red
Grade 15
1 Bolt
6m A short face with 1 naked bolt. The thin crack would probably take a wire or two ir you’’re keen. Share the belay of Short Arete.
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Short Arete
Grade 16
2 Bolt
8m A nice wee arete, sports 2 naked bolts and a DBC belay.
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Chevre
Grade 16
11 Bolt
35m Start up the corner then at the top of the corner step left around the rib. Climb to the top following a line of bolts taking the easiest way around the steep sections. DBC Belay [Pro 11 Blots].
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Rata Rout
Grade 16
3 Bolt
12m A prominent right facing corner with rata encroaching slightly across it at half height. Please don’t rip out the rata as it is a protected species; you can easily bridge over it. 3 naked bolts and a DBC belay. A good warm-up before attempting Fige.
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Canadian Grouse
Grade 22
9 Bolt
25m This route was envisaged by Craig Miller, who spent days cleaning and bolting only to run out of time before returning to Canada. Naturally, Bryce stepped in to complete the route, climbing the technical and contrived moves onsight. You can tell he was proud of this one: he gave it a star. Or maybe it was just because of the epic I had trying to second him. 9 naked bolts and a DBC belay. Hint: Climb up the small buttress to the left of the belay, stepping DOWN to the belay, as there are no holds to enable you to climb direct.
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Hello Darkness
Grade 15
4 Bolt
10m Easy laid back face climbing up to the large ledges. 4 naked bolts, DBC belay.
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Fige
Grade 21
35m The long arete on Western Wall. 2 naked bolts and 4 with hangers. Climb the crack system with most of a full set of friends to the wide ledges at half height. The crux is pulling over the roof. Head out right to the very edge of the arete and follow it to the top. DBC belay. Good varied climbing with a lovely exposed top half. Well worth the effort.
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Wholesome
Grade 8
2 Bolt
8m The route is near the prominent hole in the rock some distance to the right. 2 naked bolts. Shares the belay of Holier-Than-Thou. The moves aren’t obvious so it may be a little harder than the indicated grade.
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Holier-Than-Thou
Grade 15
2 Bolt
8m The obvious flat fronted arete of the “Hole in the rock” formation. 2 naked bolts. At the overhang step right around the corner then up to the finish at a DBC belay. A lovely laid-back route, ideal for toproping or a beginners first lead. Bolke Water,

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Hidden

Some distance east and up the slope is a steep wall with a cirque of rock at the eastern side. A black streak runs up directly below a huge overhang.

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Black Streak
Grade 19
18m Start directly up the black streak. The crux is at the top where the holds become a bit sparse. 6 naked bolts and a #2 and #3.5-4 friend to reduce a runout. Belay 20m back from large pine trees.
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The Taste Goes On
Grade 20
4 Bolt
12m A small outcrop to the left. Short, steep, and strenuous. 4 bolts, the top one with a hanger. DBC belay.
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The Taste Goes On
Grade 20
4 Bolt
12m Short, steep, and strenuous. 4 bolts, the top one with a hanger. DBC belay.
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Eat My Shorts
Grade 19
2 Bolt
10m 2 naked bolts and a TBC belay. Abseil or walk off.
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Buzzy Bee
Grade 15
3 Bolt
10m Further east down the hill near the prow of the buttress is another wall with a large tree at the top. Immediately left of Cats Cradle. Climb the corner up to the rata then move out left to the large ledge with a TBC belay. 3 naked bolts. Pleasant climbing.
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Cats Cradle
Grade 18
2 Bolt
10m Climbs the black streak on the red wall on the small buttress. 1 naked bolt and 1 with a hanger. Either thread your rope while hanging from the DBC belay or climb up meters of steep dirt to another DBC belay, from which you can walk off anyway.
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Heading For The Light
Grade 21
4 Bolt
12m A steep but short climb starting directly above Cats Cradle. 4 naked bolts. Belay from a large tree 10m from the top.

Showing all routes 18 routes total

Sports - 17 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 18 17 - 21
Chuderosa

na

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Stolen Moments
Grade 20
9 Bolt
20m On the buttress of rock 30m to the left of Chunderosa Buttress. Climb the overhanging red corner. 9 bolts. TBC belay.
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Chicken
Grade 20
1 Bolt
6m Up the hill behind Chunderosa Buttress. A boulder problem that is hard to walk by on a small boulder opposite Waiting for Dave. Has 1 bolt for the less bold.
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Waiting For Dave
Grade 17
2 Bolt
8m Starts climbing from the top of a large spike up past 2 naked bolts. Good finishing moves. Belay off a large gorse bush. Walk off.
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Horus
Grade 15
8 Bolt
20m The first route on the far left-hand end of Chunderosa Buttress. Climb the corner to the left of the big cave. Go left under the roof and cross over the arete, then up the left face of the arete. Finish up the headwall to the right of the last bolt. 8 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Arms Control
Grade 0
9 Bolt
20m A seriously overhanging routes, with an even steeper crux section. Climb through the roof at the highest point (crux) then straight up to a TBC belay. 9 bolts.
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Ball ‘N Chain
Grade 20
10 Bolt
20m Simply superb. Climb the narrow pillar then veer left to the ledges, finishing straight up through a second overhanging section to a DBC belay, 10 bolts.
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Cry Wolf
Grade 23
9 Bolt
25m 9 bolts, to the fist DBC belay. There is a crack above this belay, take small friend if you want to do this section.
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Canard
Grade 18
8 Bolt
25m Amazing that such a steep climb goes at grade 18, but the grade is bona fide, 8 bolts that pop up just where you need them. A DBC belay just below the very exposed finish, gives those who don’t feel like doing the crux move with its slung bollard for pro, a chance to bail. DBC belay.
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Galapagos
Grade 20
7 Bolt
18m A stunning line when seen from edge on, this overhanging wall just cleaves the sky. Climb straight up past 3 bolts, then go diagonally left past 2 bolts to a ledge. You can clip a bolt on Canard before stepping right again onto the face. The next placement is a sling before mantling left to the Belay. Very sustained climbing on big holds, 7 bolts DBC belay
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Hebe
Grade 17
15 Bolt
25m A long, easy arete - just the type of climbing Dave loves. Now rebolted with 15 bolts. DBC belay, watch the abseil back down as it is just over the 25m mark.
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School Bus Route
Grade 19
14 Bolt
35m Climb up past 8 bolts to the sloping ledge at 25m. Finish up the crack as for Hebe, DBC belay at the top, 14 bolts in total. Make sure your ropes reach the ground and will pull through before rapping off, or you will have a long walk back to the top.
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Hotter Than a Very Hot Thing
Grade 21
14 Bolt
30m 10m left of Hannah Louise. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up above a ledge. A fine climb for Ross’ first new route. DBC belay. [Pro 14 bolts)
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Aurum
Grade 18
14 Bolt
25m Starts up the yellow lichen staying out on the arete. The crux is just above the 6th bolt, which it shares with Hotter Than A Very Hot Thing. This is the only bolt with a hanger. 6 naked bolts and 1 with a hanger. Belay as for Hotter Than A Very Hot Thing. Rebolted 2015 now has 14 bolts.
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Carpe Diem
Grade 17
9 Bolt
30m The first 3-4 meters of climbing is on soft rock but the rock on the top section is solid. Belay as for Hotter Than A Very Hot Thing. [Pro: 9 bolts]
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Hannah Louise
Grade 18
30m A long obvious narrow groove on the East side of Chunderosa Buttress. 8 bolts, plus take some mid sized wires for extra protection near the top. DBC belay plus a large bush a few meters back. Walk off as rope drag will make it difficult to pull down the ropes, and you are won’t reach the ground on a 50m rope.
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Curly Top
Grade 20
9 Bolt
25m Starts up the grove right of Hannah Louise. Skirt the cave on the LHS to the roof. Climb directly through the roof using the large pocket to reach through to the belay on the right. 9 bolts and a TBC belay.
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Burning Rain
Grade 16
4 Bolt
12m 4 naked bolts and a DBC belay. Another abandoned project, Ross McGarva partly cleaned and bolted this line before departing for Christchurch. Three guesses who finished it off...
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East Weesy
Grade 15
4 Bolt
12m 4 Bolts and a DBC belay

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Crows Nest Pinnacle is the highest piece of rock on the ridge between Chunderosa Buttress and Flying Cow Buttress. The panoramic view from the top is well worth the effort of climbing up. The South and West faces are to date unclimbed: there may be a few good climbs there. All the routes share the same DBC belay.

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Hook Line and Sinker
Grade 17
8m Climb the middle of the face, crossing the diagonal crack at about half height. Bryce climbed the face using friends in pockets and hooks plus a skillful sling lasso to protect the top moves, which was all so we could get access to the top of the pinnacle. No bolts. DBC belay.
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Monsoon Madness
Grade 13
3 Bolt
10m Climb the west facing slab. Start with a good thread at chest height if you want some protection from the steep drop down the hillside, then continue up past 3 bolts. DBC belay. The easy moves and incredible views make for stimulating climbing.
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Double Jeopardy
Grade 14
3 Bolt
13m Climbs the prominent buttress at the SE corner of the pinnacle. Don’t be put off by the height of the first bolt as it is an easy clip and the moves are very secure. 3 bolts. DBC belay.

Showing all routes 4 routes total

Flyingcow

na

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Quacky Duck
Grade 18
6 Bolt
15m Climb the face to the small roof, turning it on the RHS then move back left (crux), finishing straight up. 6 naked bolts, DBC belay 10m back from the top.
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Pigs In Space
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m Very good easy arete climbing on solid rock. The crux is a short steep section near the top. All of the 5 naked bolts are easy clips.
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Dead Cow Groove
Grade 15
10 Bolt
15m The carcass is long gone, but the long easy, laid back groove remains, 10 bolts. Exit right from the top of the groove then up 10m of grass to a large boulder. A DBC belay is on the top of the boulder. Best to walk off. Hard to beat for a long pleasant climb at a beginners grade.
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Pani Para Chha
Grade 17
9 Bolt
15m One or two hard moves at the start of the arete then easy grader 14-15 climbing to the top. 9 blts and a DBC Belay.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 2 minutes

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16
Meteora1Meteora2

The big blade shaped pinnacle you walk past on the way to Flying Cow Buttress.

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Euridice
Grade 16
10 Bolt
20m Climb the long arête up the road side of Meteora Buttress. The crux is on the headwall then climb on to DBC belay on top.
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Lucky Stars
Grade 10
4 Bolt
8m Climb the left hand side of the north face. Traverse right at the top to the DBC belay that is most convenient.
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Tortoise
Grade 10
4 Bolt
8m 1-2m right of Lucky Stars. Originally climbed solo to access the top of the pinnacle.
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Terrapin
Grade 16
5 Bolt
12m Climb the narrow west face of the buttress. Belay from a ledge with DBC. Climb up the centre of the face then move right at half height. Great pocket climbing in a fantastic situation. DBC belays on top. Rebolted in 2015 with stainless steel hangers.
"project"
The Great A'Tuin
Grade 16
5 Bolt
10m Climbs the left side of the arete left of Terrapin. Somewhat unstable rock lower down, to finish at Terrapin's anchors. Marked on the topo picture as "project", and apologies for stepping on anyones toes. Bolted and climbed 19/03/16.

Showing all routes 92 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 66 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 26 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Bayleys

Following rumours of rock somewhere down Bayley Road, Bryce and Dave drove down to have a look, and were amazed at the huge, crack-lined buttress just metres from the road. The largest crack, Swallow, was the first route to be done, along with some more routes on the stunning aretes of River Wall, just 100 m down the farm track. Bayleys is probably the most cosmopolitan of the crags in this guide, as more than a dozen climbers have done new routes here. High quality aretes and corners are the most outstanding features of Bayleys, which gives a great variety of distinctive arete, face, and corner climbing. For the trad climber, there are half a dozen good crack climbs (unusual for Wharepapa ignimbrite) Still Crazy and Jubilation Crack being outstanding examples. Excellent bouldering is found in the paddock at the back of Monday Wall, and in the boulder field next to the road, possibly the best at Wharepapa.

Access: From Wharepapa, drive down Seafund Road past Smith and Sheridan, at the T intersection, turn left down Balyey road. Follow this for about 5 km past Loop road and down the hill. At the base of the hill is a large rock buttress with a crack up one side This is the Bayleys’ “RaodSide”. Park in the layby just past this point . Land Owners Name: John Locke. Phone Number: (07) 872 2542 Access: Sign book before going onto property. (Don’t ask at House) Crag will be closed to climbing during lambing, July 15th to August 20th. Parking: Park in the layby just down from the crag. Note. If you wish to climb on the rocks on the other side of the river then you will need to get permission from the Elliott’s. Their house is on the other side of the bridge.

Attribution: Hosted on www.freeclimb.co.nz. Written By Michael Camilleri Updated by Cliff Ellery

Showing all routes 11 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Roadside 0

The obvious full-height crack/chimney on the far RH face of the buttress is Gulp.

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Bolting for Angi
Grade 15
3 Bolt
9m At the far left end of Roadside crag, 20m left of broken promise. An abundance of large holds until the anchors. 3 bolts and 2 ring hangers belay
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Time and Money
Grade 16
2 Bolt
8m Follow the scoop finishing top right. 2 bolts and 2 ring hangers belay
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Not another Trip into
Grade 16
2 Bolt
8m Follow the arête finishing at the same anchors as for Time and Money. 2 Bolts and 2 ring hangers belay.
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Unknown Route
Grade 20
2 Bolt
8m Climb the face finishing on good holds at the top. 2 bolts and DBC belay.
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Broken Promise
Grade 20
8m Nice moves up a well pocked, short, overhanging arete. 2 bolts and DBC belay.
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Gobble
Grade 17
15m Make the hard start to gain a sling placement, then continue with wires to the top, finishing with a couple of large friend placements. Share the DBC belay with Swallow.
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Swallow
Grade 17
15m This crack starts so wide Dave had to place a bolt at the start. Higher up it narrows down from #4 to #2 friend size. The crux is where the crack nearly closes off at 2/3 height. Take a small friend or large wire for this. DBC belay on the top of the pillar.
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Post Funeral Blues
Grade 21
10 Bolt
20m The Arete between “Swallow” & “Gulp”. Shares the DBC belay of Swallow Ray
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Gulp
Grade 18
4 Bolt
20m The obvious chimneys line. The original line climbed deep inside the chimney, however now the route has bee equipped with bolts it is best to climb the chimney right on the outer lip. Exit the chimney at the fourth bolt (crux), swing onto the face and climb the crack and bulge above. Shares the DBC belay of Swallow.
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Suck it & See
Grade 24
12m The face and crack 3m right of Gulp. Complete with 2 bolts and a DBC on a big ledge. Take wire for the top crack.
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Afterthought
Grade 16
8m From the farm gate at the road a hand-crack is visible up the hill about 50m right of Gulp. A perfect hand crack, in the middle of a wall, Just go and climb it! Belay off numerous small bushes. Walk off.

Showing all routes 22 routes total

Sports - 21 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 24 22 - 25
Riverw

The farm gate 50m past Roadside is the jumping off point for most of Bayley’s Road. Park without obstructing the gate and walk on in along the farm track. Riverwall is about 100 m down river from the car park.

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Edgehog
Grade 22
5 Bolt
12m The first impressive sharp arete on the upper tier. 5 bolts with hangers and a DBC belay.
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Unknown route
Grade 18
2 Bolt
15m 2m right of the fence post. Climb the face past 2 bolts to a DBC belay.
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Born to Fly
Grade 21
5 Bolt
12m As Tony so articulately put it “Easy Climbing leads to ballsy finish , How’s your air pants. 5 bolts & DBC belay.
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Azure Pe’
Grade 15
4 Bolt
15m On the next buttress. This line survived more than 2 months after bolting before being led. DBC belay a few meters back from the top. [Pro 4 bolts]
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Raw Bacon & Scotch
Grade 17
4 Bolt
12m The second pitch of Azure Pe’. Four bolts & DBC belay.
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Prodigal Surfer
Grade 18
8 Bolt
15m A really obvious buttress 8m right of Azure Pe’, finishing on a knob. The crux is at the top. DBC Belay [Pro 8 bolts]
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Get Your Hands Off it Coates
Grade 18
2 Bolt
10m The second pitch of Prodigal Surfer.
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Broom Broom Mentality
Grade 18
3 Bolt
10m Start up the middle of the face, then cross over to the buttress on the left. 3 naked bolts and DBC belay.
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Swansong
Grade 20
4 Bolt
10m Petes’ last route before disappearing overseas. 4 bolts with hangers. DBC Belay.
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Won’t Be Long
Grade 17
4 Bolt
12m Climb the corner until the crack widens, then move onto the right wall. Follow a thin crack up and to the right to the belay ledge of 20/20. [Pro: 4 bolts]
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20/20
Grade 20
6 Bolt
20m 5m right. Starts up a short, steep, overhanging wall Climb past the bolts to join a crack, and finish on a ledge complete with DBC belay. [Pro: 6 bolts]
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Recipe Man and the Industrial Opera
Grade 23
6 Bolt
20m Immediately right of 20/20. A hard start followed by 6 bolts leads up to a DBC near the top.
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Finger Lick’in Good
Grade 24
20m The very impressive over hanging corner. Hard climbing and a bold lead all on natural gear. The gear was pre placed on the first ascent.
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Blind as Bats
Grade 17
3 Bolt
10m Climb straight up on good holds past 3 naked bolts to a TBC belay. Like 20/20 the name has nothing to do with vision!
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Rabid Stuffed Toys In Lycra
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m 20m right is a sharp arete. On the face. With a name like that it deserves to be a classic. 5 bolts.
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Attack of the Killer Oven Gloves
Grade 16
2 Bolt
12m Personally I preferred Simons original name: Sex Slaves from Outer Space. 2 bolts. Move right at the top to the DBC belay of Sharp Arete.
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Sharp Arete
Grade 19
2 Bolt
12m Climb the sharp arete past 2 naked bolts to a DBC belay.
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Stuffed Toys with Attitude
Grade 21
3 Bolt
12m Overhanging wall with 3 bolts. Finish at the DBC belay of Sharp Arete. Simon Carr Apr-94
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Cocoa Kid and the Black and Decker Wimp
Grade 16
3 Bolt
A short walk to the last outcrop on River Wall. Look for a two-tiered, square buttress. Climb the face in the middle of the buttress. 3 naked bolts and a DBC belay.
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Totally Tuff
Grade 20
3 Bolt
10m Climb the overhanging face. First bolt naked, the next two with hangers. Belay from a single naked bolt on the top of the column, and another on a block above. Walk off.
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Kathmandu Kid
Grade 17
3 Bolt
10m Originally called Petite Miam , but renamed after Andrew forgot what he called it. Climb the arete. 3 naked bolts. Belay as for Totally Tuff.
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Bivouac Boy
Grade 15
2 Bolt
10m Climb the face past 2 bolts. Belay as for Totally Tuff.

Showing all routes 23 routes total

Sports - 17 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Monday

So named when both Bryce and Michael threw sickies after a wet weekend. Perfect weather, a new wall with five new climbs on it, and the fact that Cliff was stuck at work after driving around all weekend in search of dry rock, left an indelible memory.

Access: From River Wall follow the farm track along the river to a set of double gates. Monday Wall is about 200m away on the left on the other side of a swamp. Monday Wall is the East facing wall you walk up to.

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Pyroclastic Possum
Grade 18
4 Bolt
10m Climb the arete 1m left of Clip, Climb, Crash. 4 naked bolts. Shares the same belay.
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Clip, Climb, Crash
Grade 15
3 Bolt
10m Start 15m left Haemorrhoid Heaven up a buttress to a deep crack and corner. Finish right past 3 naked bolts to a DBC belay.
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Haemorrhoid Heaven
Grade 23
3 Bolt
10m This left facing wall is short but very strenuous. 3 naked bolts and TBC belay. The crux is between the bolts.
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Running on Empty
Grade 17
2 Bolt
10m Climb the face past 2 naked bolts. Topping out is the crux move. DBC belay.
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Vegetarian Chainsaw Massacre
Grade 15
15m A deep narrow groove 3m right of Running on Empty. All natural pro: mainly small to mid size friends and wires. Fine climbing and good protection makes for a classic climb. Belay off a large tree about 10m back from the top. Walk off.
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No Work, No Rain, No Worries
Grade 17
2 Bolt
10m This pleasant climb follows twin cracks, each with miniature corners. 2 bolts. DBC belay.
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Anne
Grade 19
5 Bolt
10m Shallow arete with 5 bolts. Shares the belay with TTMAR 3m to the right.
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Take the Money and Run
Grade 19
12m The main central feature of the cliff is a right facing corner 3m right of No Work, No Rain, No Worries. Has 1 naked bolt and a fixed peg near the top. There is a great placement for a large RP half way between the bolt and the peg. The crux is just above the bolt. Exit left to a DBC belay. Wear your red caps for this one.
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Can’t Say No to Offers Like This
Grade 18
5 Bolt
12m Never shy about appropriating routes Bryce scored good moves on clean rock supported by 5 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Cruising for a Bruising
Grade 19
5 Bolt
19m Climb the right wall of this left facing corner past 5 bolts. The crux is low down. Share the belay with Blue Peter 2m to the right.
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Blue Peter
Grade 20
12m A groove/crack up the middle of buttress. 4bolts . Gear can be arranged if crack if deemed necessary. DBC belay.
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Spring Thor
Grade 18
10m A deep right facing corner with a fixed peg near the top. To start scramble onto the ledge where you can place a 1.5 or 2 friend and a small wire. These had better be good as there is no more gear till the peg. Move left at the top to the belay of Blue Peter.
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Rawhide
Grade 19
2 Bolt
10m A narrow arete with parallel cracks immediately right of Spring Thor. Sports 2 naked bolts and a DBC belay.
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Gillians Arete
Grade 16
3 Bolt
8m Suprisingly delicate climbing is required here. 3 bolts and a DBC belay.
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The Pressures On
Grade 15
8m Nice bridging moves & pockets.
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Gumboot Arete
Grade 15
2 Bolt
4m A short climb with a long history. At least four previous attempts ended in dismal failure: lack of commitment and gumboots being critical factors. DBC belay & 2 bolts, so walk off.
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Easy Tiger
Grade 13
5m Bridge across the corner. Good beginner climb.

Showing all routes 6 routes total

Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 22 - 25

On the back side of Mondays Wall.

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Cleos Revenge
Grade 10
2 Bolt
5m Easy climbing up the back of the Spring Thor buttress. 2 bolts & DBC belay.
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Sticky Sticks
Grade 0
3 Bolt
8m 3 metres left of Left Wing Politics. Climb the obvious arete, crux at bottom. 3 bolts & DBC belay.
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Left Wing Politics
Grade 15
5 Bolt
8m Immediately left of Winter Solstice. Technical traversing climbing, with a delicate step across to the flake. 5 Bolts & DBC belay.
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Winter Solstice
Grade 14
8m Climb the arete to the DBC belay of Left Wing Politics.
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One Bolt Wonder
Grade 15
1 Bolt
10m 20m left of the Nose Route is this delightfully fun and easy face climb. One naked bolt is all you need, and the DBC belay is well placed for top roping.
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Nose Route
Grade 23
2 Bolt
10m The large buttress with a roof 1.5m above the ground. Nose Route starts directly up the prow. Lock off on two large pockets, dyno and then it’s all over one way or another. 2 bolts over easy ground lead up to huge finishing jugs and a DBC belay.

Showing all routes 24 routes total

Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 10 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
New

A short way down river is the New Wall, which features some remarkable crack, corner, and arete systems. The lines are so sharp they could have been cut with a knife. The most obvious feature on the New Wall RHS is Still Crazy, a hand crack at the LH end that goes the whole height of the cliff. A narrow cut track goes directly up to this crack from which you access both the LHS and RHS of New Wall. A track or clear area goes all the way along the base of the cliff To walk to the top of the wall go back to the farm track and go down river about 50m to another narrow track. This goes directly to the top of the cliff, which is quite open.

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Jubilation Crack
Grade 21
15m “About the best crack climb I’ve done outside the Bay” - Bryce Martin. Takes the widening thin crack in the shallow corner immediately right of the Rata. The crux is the start and the first few bridging moves. Beautiful finishing jugs only enhance an already classic crack. Belay from a tree.
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Big, My Favourite Size
Grade 24
4 Bolt
15m A face climb on the left of an impressive arete, 2m right of Jubilation Crack. 5 bolts in total, one naked. The crux is between bolts 4 and 5. DBC belay.
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Consolation Crack
Grade 15
12m Starts about 4m right of Jubilation Crack. A laid back, easy jam crack with the crux at the start. Belay from some trees back from the top. Don’ t forget your #4 friends.
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Adios Auckland
Grade 15
7 Bolt
12m Easy slab 1m right of 'Consolation Crack'. Put up on the way home to Wellington from a contract in Auckland. Shares anchors with '21'. TCB.
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21
Grade 21
9 Bolt
15m The arete between 'Adios Auckland' and 'Rolling Thunder'. So named as 21 years had passed since the last new route was put up at New Wall. Possibly also the grade. Shares anchors with 'AA'. TCB.
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Rolling Thunder
Grade 21
15m A diagonal right leaning crack 5m left of Hydroslide, steepens towards the top. Belay off trees about 5m from the edge.
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Hydroslide
Grade 17
15m This thin crack and right facing yellow corner is about 30m left of Still Crazy. Climb the crack and exit left at the very top onto a steep ramp. Best done when dry. TBC belay.
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Monkey Lust
Grade 21
3 Bolt
12m The overhanging wall with 3 bolts. Move left towards the top. Great climb. Walk back about 5m to belay off a pine tree 3m left of Redemption.
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VA-VODE
Grade 0
4 Bolt
12m Face climb 2m right of Monkey Lust. 4 naked bolts and a tree belay.
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Redemption
Grade 17
10m The first finger crack you come across when coming around from Still Crazy. Jam up to a TBC belay. Not hard but somewhat awkward.
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Grandmaster's Edge
Grade 20
5 Bolt
12m Arete left of Still Crazy. Climb right side mainly, to left between third and fourth bolts, to belay of Still Crazy
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Still Crazy
Grade 15
20m This perfect hand crack on perfect rock would not be out of place at Whanganui Bay. Near enough to 3 friend size from top to bottom, with no real crux. Take #2.5-#4 friends, and as many #3s as you can find. TBC belay at the ledge at the top. A real gem.
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Don’t Know
Grade 19
3 Bolt
15m 15m right of Still Crazy is a pine tree. Found another 3m further right. The LHS of a wide shallow grove. Place some wires for the first few meters to gain the first of 3 naked bolts. Move right at the top to the middle of the headwall, DBC belay.
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Indecisive
Grade 21
4 Bolt
15m Bridge up the corner moving left at the top to clip the top bolt of Don’t Know for a total of 4 naked bolts. In a word, awkward.
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Yellow Arete
Grade 18
3 Bolt
12m Look for a pine tree 12m right of Still Crazy. The arete is stained by a fine yellow lichen. Some of the best moves around. 3 naked bolts and a TBC belay.
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Cliffs Climb
Grade 19
15m You shouldn’t have skipped this day trip, Cliff. This corner shares the DBC belay of Beg To Differ to the right. Uses some small wire placements between the 2 naked bolts. Move right on big holds after the fixed peg at the top to a DBC belay. Among the best routes on the wall.
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Beg to Differ
Grade 18
15m Climb up past two bolts to a seam which takes a #3 and #3.5 friend. Run it out from here up and left to a DBC belay. Nice big holds make this climb easier than it appears from the ground.
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Silver Service
Grade 17
4 Bolt
15m The next corner 3m right. A really user-friendly climb that should see many ascents. 4 naked bolts and a TBC belay on the right wall.
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Gourmet Delight
Grade 20
3 Bolt
15m Another obvious corner 4m to the right. The meal continues with a course of veges. Three naked bolts and a bolt with hanger complete the meal. There are plenty of pockets around the social climbing fern, so please leave it alone. Finish up a ramp to the belay of Silver Service.
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Naturally
Grade 19
15m Dust off your rack for this one. The first runner is a #4 friend in a long deep pocket on the right about 4m up. Continue with wires in the thin crack. DBC belay at the top on the right.
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Preservatives Added
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m A large tree fern is about 5m to the right. Go past this another 7m and down to a cabbage tree: As the vicar said to the groom “Save your strength for the end”. 5 naked bolts up to the DBC belay of Naturally.
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Double Trouble
Grade 20
5 Bolt
15m Possibly the best climb on the wall ascends a very impressive sharp, clean arete. The crux is at the start, as Mike and Tim found much to Bryce’s amusement. 5 naked bolts and a TBC belay.
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Yertle theTurtle
Grade 20
12m A buttress/face climb sporting two naked bolts. Place a #3 friend in a pocket in between. Great finishing moves up to a DBC belay. Completes the Turtle Trilogy of Turtle Power at Froggatt and Turtle on a Stick at Bosch.
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Flight of the Goodwin
Grade 19
2 Bolt
8m Tim Goodwin was grounded after this one. A huge fall ripped out the top bolt and a RP hanger off the remaining bolt, depositing Tim upside down in a blackberry bush.. We dragged him out by his ankles, stuffed him full of panadol, carried him to the car (losing his 10 year old rope in the process) and drove him back to Auckland, lying across the back seat and moaning. Then Bryce stole his route. Haven’t seen Tim out climbing for a while. 2 naked bolts and a DBC belay.

Showing all routes 7 routes total

Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25

Named for the prominent pinnacle of rock with flakes shaped like the North Island. The Kiwi answer to the North America Wall at Yosemite I suppose. It is across the river from New Wall. If you are lucky you can ford the river, otherwise get access from the road (see map).

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Left Rib
Grade 14
2 Bolt
9m Upstream from the pinnacle is a separate smallish crag with 2 easy bolted routes. Climb the LH buttress. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Right Rib
Grade 16
2 Bolt
9m Climb the RH wall. 2 bolts and a DBC belay.
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Dogus Knobus
Grade 19
5 Bolt
15m Half way along the main wall is a short corner with a small cabbage tree on top: On the main pinnacle. 30m left of Helen. 5 naked bolts. DBC belay.
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Helen
Grade 22
16m Left of Svine Werst up a steep corner. Climb the right wall past a large pockets (#3.5 friend placement), then follow 3 bolts to the top. The crux is below the second bolt.
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Svine Werst
Grade 16, 17
2 Bolt
1. 45m Scramble to the base of a corner and belay on a bracken covered ledge.
2. Climb an easy wall past 2 bolts. Bold moves to finish.
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Le Pommeaux du Chieu
Grade 20, 0
1. 45m Start up the open book corner -2 bolts to a large ledge and belay on nuts and friends.
2. Climb the corner crack to a ledge. Lauch left up onto a wall past 1 bolt. Place a #1.5 friend in a horizontal crack before the second bolt. Top out on the pinnacle. The DBC belay is in a pretty wild spot!
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R18
Grade 18
1 Bolt
5m Some distance downstream and up the slope is a prominent knob of rock. Can’t miss it really: The singularly unique rock across the river from the New Wall. Cliff got stick for months over this one, especially since he nearly creamed himself after falling off near the top. Freud would have had a field day. One naked (what else!) bolt. No belay, so walk off the back.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Img 2731

Flush with enthusiasm due to the red hot redevelopment going on at New Wall LHS, Bryce came down to put up something new. A route was spotted, a rope was slung, and Bryce disappeared over the top to clean it. The enthusiasm evaporated the lower he got down the cliff, so that by the bottom he was looking somewhat dejected. "You know, that's going to be quite hard" With that he wandered away down to hill to look for something new. Ten minutes later he was back bursting with enthusiasm again. "I've found a new crag, it needs no cleaning!" and with that, he was gone.

Access: From New Wall LHS, walk down the hill past 'Jubilation Crack' toward the stream. On reaching the fence, look over it. 'Leaning Butress' is the craglet in front of you, 50 odd metres away, facing 'Monday Wall'. As 'Leaning Buttress' is opposite 'Monday Wall', access from the car park is pretty much the same. From River Wall follow the farm track along the river to a set of double gates. If there is no maize crop, head through the gates and bear rightish up the slope until 'New Wall' comes into view in front of you. Walk through the gates close to the base of 'New Wall LHS', into the paddock containing 'Monday Wall'. 'Leaning Buttress' is opposite 'Monday Wall', in the paddock up the hill, beside 'New Wall LHS'.

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You're a Big Girl Now
Grade 18
12m The obvious corner crack on the left hand side of the crag. DBC Belay
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About Face
Grade 18
6 Bolt
15m Work up the side of the fallen slab, then cut across onto the vertical arete. DBC belay.
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Fallen Slab
Grade 15
2 Bolt
8m Womble up the fallen slab in the centre of the crag. DBC belay
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A Dave Garrity Special
Grade 15
12m Starting behind Fallen Slab, grovel up the chimney. It's awesome. Follow the crack to the top to finish. DBC belay.
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Arms Be Dextrous
Grade 18
2 Bolt
12m One or two cams, then bolts. DBC belay

Showing all routes 69 routes total 130 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 38 routes - avg. grade 23 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 31 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Waipapa

The “Main Cliff” at Waipapa is tucked away out of sight in a valley about 1km down stream of the Waipapa dam. It was first discovered by Kevin Barratt in 1999. Kevin returned to the crag a number of times that year and put up the first couple of routes, “Finger of Fate” and “Side Winder”. This gem of a crag soon attracted a lot of interest and over the next 2 to 3 years a number of climbers from Hamilton, Auckland, Rotorua and Wharepapa put up near on sixty routes. The rock is a very compact fully welded Ignibrite with small edges lower down and pocketed nearer the top. The routes here require a totally different climbing style compared to their Ignibrite cousins down the road. The small holds and edges require balance and finesse as opposed to power and brute strength. The Main Cliff faces North and is situated on the side of a bush covered gully, with native trees right along the base and pine trees at the top. Access to the top of the cliff is difficult so all the routes have belay stations at or near the top of the cliff and descent is by abseil. There is a mix of sport climbs and trad climbing with some routes having a bit of both. The first person to do any climbing around the Waipapa dam was Graeme Dingle, Corrina Gage and Andrew Cory in 1981. Graeme and Co paddle across the lake and put up 2 climbs on one of the small outcrops along side the lake directly opposite the road. These routes were forgotten about until the CNI guide was published. A few climbers started to develop some of the cliffs up above the road but despite it’s appearance the rock here tends to be soft and friable and as a result there has been no further development in this area . There are numerous other account of people looking around the cliffs along side the powerhouse and immediately down stream of the dam but prior to Kevin Barratt discovering the main cliff there are no records of anyone doing any routes.

Access: Climbing Restrictions There is absolutely no Climbing on any of the cliffs in and around the power house or carpark. To ensure continued access to the other cliffs in the area please do not climb on any of the cliffs in the car park area. The NZAC is currently in negotiations with Mighty River Power over access to Lakeside Wall and Crack Wall. While these negotiations are in progress the Lakeside and Cracks walls are closed for climbing. Location The Waipapa Dam is located on the Waikato River right along side of the Wharepapa to Mangakino Road (Waipapa Rd). The Waipapa Dam is about 30 km south of “Wharepapa South” and 15 km North of Mangakino. Once at Waipapa drive across the dam and park in the car park on the opposite side of the powerhouse. The main climbing area is about 1 km down river from the dam. From the car park climb the gate and follow the sealed road for about 200m before veering off left down a metal road. Follow this road taking a right at the first fork in the road. Just past this point on your right is the Crack Wall area. To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall” and sport a number of fine lines. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track tht leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by and written By Cliff Ellery

Showing all routes 3 routes total

Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track down to the far-left hand end of the crag till you come to an obvious right facing corner crack system capped by a roof, this is the line of Millennium Madness. Three meters to the left is a small picnic area and a short corner crack system, the start of “Supper C. Ellery” and “Rotovagus”. From this point drop down rope steps cross a small gully and climb the ladder on the other side, Directly above this point is the line of Honey Bee, 10m to the left are the line of Utopia and Immortality.

Access: To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.

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Utopia
Grade 26
20m
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Immortality
Grade 28
20m
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Honey Bee
Grade 18
25m Start just 5m left of the rope ladder. Mantel on to low ledge then cross slab and up corner and on to the main face. Climb face up to belay.

Showing all routes 10 routes total

Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 25 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Millen

Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track down to the far-left hand end of the crag till you come to an obvious right facing corner crack system capped by a roof, this is the line of Millennium Madness. Three meters to the left is a small picnic area and a short corner crack system, the start of “Supper C. Ellery” and “Rotovagus”.

Access: To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.

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Sex Kitten
Grade 24
7 Bolt
28m Climb the easy angle but featureless bulges to a large ledge. From here climb over the steep and featureless bulge (crux) then move up the easier ground above followed by a steep Finish on large holds.
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Super C Ellery
Grade 26
30m Start up the short corner crack of RotoVegas then veer left onto the face. Climb past 6 bolts finishing at a 2 ring bolt Belay. A bit of a sequence problem lower down with a powerful section near the top. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires, 6 Bolts)
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Root Celery
Grade 29
3 Bolt
10m Direct Start to Super C Ellery. Thin, technical, bouldery climbing past three bolts to join Super C Ellery at the no hands horizontal where that route leaves Rotovagus and heads up the wall. Finish up Super C Ellery.
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RotoVegas
Grade 25
30m Start up the short corner crack, then move right into the adjacent crack system. Climb the crack and groove above, past one bolt, then continue up easier ground till you reach the small overhang (bolt) which is climbed utilizing the right arete. Move back left and continue straight up to the DBC belay. Two cruxes one at each bolt. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires, 2 Bolts)
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Millennium Madness
Grade 18
15m The obvious right facing corner and roof system. Climb the finger cracks around both roofs to the DBC belay. (Pro: SCD, CD)
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Monster Madness
Grade 27
25m Up the start of Mellenium Madness on trad then at the good stance under the big roof (which no-one had thought to climb?!), step left to bolt and punch it through a powerful yet technical boulder to the lip, then weave up the headwall above!
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Mid Year Madness
Grade 24
25m The continuation of Millennium Madness. Clip the belay off MM then climb through the roof (good hold on the lip) then continue up the thin crack and arete above. Belay off the large pine tree just below the top of the cliff. (Pro: SCD, CD, W, 2 Bolts)
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Sun Dried Tomatoes
Grade 22
5 Bolt
15m Follow the line of bolts moving right after the 3rd bolt then continue directly up to the DBC belay (Pro: 5 bolts)
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Ring Them Bells
Grade 17
6 Bolt
15m Straight up the line of bolts to a DBC belay (Pro: 6 bolts)
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Dogs Breakfast
Grade 18
7 Bolt
17m The right most line of bolts on Millennium Wall. Climb the wall and arete to the DUB belay. [Pro 7 bolts]

Showing all routes 9 routes total

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Millen 0

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Access: 1/ To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end. 2/ Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track rightwards. 3/ From the right hand end of the Millennium Wall follow a rough track for about 15m till you reach the next distinguishing feature of the Main Cliff, a large right facing arching corner. From just right of the corner scramble up onto a narrow belay ledge complete with DBC belay.

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Seattle Rain
Grade 22
5 Bolt
8m Balance moves up the wall to you reach the crack. Move left taking an exposed step onto the overhang, pull through then mantel onto the 1st Belay ledge of Mortality. (Pro: 5 Bolts).
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Popeye
Grade 23, 22
11 Bolt
1. 13m Climb the wall and arete 2m left of the large corner. Eases off after the 3rd bolt then moves left at 5th bolt to DBC belay. Shares the last 2 bolts and belay of Morality
2. 17m Continue up the line of Mortality to the 2nd bolt, then move delicately right onto the slab and continue up till you reach the roof. Having gained the good hold on the lip make a big blind reach to get established in the groove, form here easy climbing leads to the DBC belay of Mortality. Twin ropes are advised, if not it maybe worth unclipping the 2nd bolt after you have clipped the 3rd, 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: 6 Bolts). Both pitch’s can be climbed in one on double ropes.
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Mortality
Grade 17, 22
12 Bolt
1. 15m Climb up to the forth bolt on the Arches (see below) to where that route starts to break left. Traverse left at this point past two bolts on the narrow ledge then traverse left to a BDC belay around the next arete.
2. 16m Climb directly up the steep slab past three bolts to a large flake. Climb the right side of the flake and gain the groove above and slightly right (crux). Follow the groove to a DBC belay. (Pro: 7 bolts)
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The Arches
Grade 18
9 Bolt
35m Climb the corner of the arch past 3 bolts then veer right onto the face then traverse horizontally across the wall about 2m below the roof. Belay on a small ledge on the right hand end of the face. The crux is the first few moves and there is a difficult move gaining the belay ledge. DBC belay and 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: 9 bolts)
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Gauche mais pas Maladroit
Grade 18
10 Bolt
20m Climb the shallow corner and crack 3m to the right of The Arches corner then move onto the face (crux) and continue straight up, crossing the line of “The Arches” (NZ road code applies at intersection), to a two hook belay just below roof. (Pro: 10 Bolts)
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The Arches Three Steps to Heaven
Grade 26
8 Bolt
25m The line up the right hand end of the Arch wall directly below the belay of The Arches. A frustrating move past the second bolt is followed by the crux at the 4 & 5 bolts, the climbing then eases off with a hard move to finish. (Pro: 8 bolts)
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Ben’s Big Day Out
Grade 20
22m Five metres to the right of the Arch wall is another buttress. Scramble up onto the narrow belay ledge. Follow the two thin crack lines (RP size) to gain the next ledge at 5m height. Move left and follow the bolts up the corner then continue up the crack line above. At the top step right to the double ring bolt belay of Fingers Crossed. (Pro: RPs, Wires, CD, 3 Bolts)
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Fingers Crossed
Grade 22
25m Start as for Ben’s Big Day but move right at the ledge making an awkward move to gain the hand crack. Climb the crack until it tapers out then move left to the bolt (crux). Follow the line of bolts to the top. Two ring bolt belay station, 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: CD, Wires, RPs, 4 Bolts)
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Game of Two Halves
Grade 27
4 Bolt
25m The line immediately left of Fingers Crossed. Follow layaway crack line past 4 bolts, continue up the square arete to gain the small foot ledge and rest stance (avoid the dirty stuff out left). Pull right and kick off again up the thin slab to the ledge and DB belay .

Showing all routes 22 routes total

Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 9 routes - avg. grade 24 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Fate

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Access: 1/ To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end. 2/ Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track rightwards. 3/ From the right hand end of the Millennium Wall follow a rough track for about 15m till you reach the next distinguishing feature of the Main Cliff, a large right facing arching corner. 4/ From the base of "Three Step to Heaven" (Arch Wall), the track drops down from the cliff before moving right and crossing a large slip. Scramble up the right hand side of the slip to the base.

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The Root
Grade 18
25m Climb the groove with a prominent tree root (use root as runners). Continue up the gnarly crack into the large right facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires & slung roots)
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Billy Bold
Grade 17
12m Ten metres right of the slip is a left facing corner crack system which finishes at a ledge at half height, this is the line of Billy Bold. Face climbing leads to the base of the corner crack. From here jam and layback the fist crack till you reach the ledge, DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires)
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Quarry Climbing
Grade 19
12m Two metres to the right of Billy Bold and finishing at the same belay ledge is the line Quarry Climbing. Climb up past 2 bolts then follow the thin crack which widens to fingers then hands. DBC belay. Reminiscent of climbing at Mt Eden quarry and in true quarry style an ascent has been made without using the bolts. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wire, 2 Bolts)
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Real Rock
Grade 21
25m Starts 3m to the right of Quarry Climbing on a ledge 2m above the track. Bridge and layback the corner then swing round onto the left arete and move up onto ledge. Follow the right facing corner crack to a large detached flake (A good but somewhat obtrusive rest can be gained by sitting atop of the flake). Follow the crack over steep ground then continue up past 2 bolts (crux). DBC (Pro: CD, Wires).
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Sidewinder
Grade 22
22m Five metres to the right of Quarry Climbing and about 20m up is a large detached pinnacle. Sidewinder climbs up the outside of this feature. Start directly below the pinnacle up a set of twin cracks. Continue up the slanting crack to the right side of the pinnacle then step left round onto the front face (bolt). Climb obliquely left (hay, I just write the descriptions as they are given to me) onto the left-hand side then up past 2 more bolts before topping out on the summit of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent. (Pro: CD, Wires, 4 Bolts)
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Penny Lane
Grade 19
25m Start up slab move right into corner. Climb corner till you get you hands on the ledge (crux), do not climb on to ledge but instead move left into crack system. Do not climb chimney system of finger of fate , climb the crack direct up to the belay of Finger of Fate. (Pro: Trad)
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Finger of Fate
Grade 17, 16
1. 13m Climb the corner and then move left and climb the next short corner to the base of the pinnacle chimney. DBC Belay. (Pro: LCD, CD, Wires)
2. 12m Climb the chimney and belay on top of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent.(Pro: Bolts)
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Perfect Light
Grade 21
25m Start up the right facing corner of Finger of Fate breaking right at the first ledge to continue up the wall to the right of the thin crack. Climb into the right facing hanging corner breaking left 5m from the top up the steep face and wide crack. DBC belay abseil descent. (Pro, LCD, CD, 5 bolts)
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Lats Rule Thinking
Grade 23
30m Starts just right of the large right facing corner of Finger of Fate. Climb the face and shallow grooves past 4 bolts (crux) then continue over easier ground past five more bolts to the left facing corner. Once through the corner follow the crack to the hanging tree and DBC belay, 30m abseil descent therefore double ropes needed. Sustained climbing and the top crack section is longer than it looks from the ground. (Pro: CD, Wires, 9 Bolts)
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Scavenger
Grade 24
30m A line cleaned and partly bolted by Aaron who then abandoned the project when he shifted south. The circling buzzards could be seen for months over head before the line was finally picked off. Start three metres to the right of “Lats Rule Thinking”. Climb up the middle of the face past 3 bolts then pull over the small roof (crux). Move up and right (see note) then continue up the groove just to the left of the arete. Climb the short crack above (1 to 2 friend sizes) and top out on the small ledge, DBC belay. Bold but safe climbing. (Note. On the first ascent the 7th bolt of Lat Rule Thinking was clipped before the move right was made, double ropes req. (Pro: 9 bolts & CD)
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Robin
Grade 23
7 Bolt
18m Immediately right of Scavenger. Climb up blocky ground move right at the 5th bolt and mantel the ledge (crux). Climb the steep corner above with a difficult finishing move onto the belay ledge. DBC belay, abseil descent. To date the second pitch has not been climbed. (Pro 7 bolts).
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Batman
Grade 27
6 Bolt
18m The direct line of Robin. Strenuous start through the bulge to 2nd bolt. Bridge up twin cracks to 4th bolt then a thin move up and left with a big throw off, small crimps to ledge. Finish as with Robin. (Pro: 6 Bolts)
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Theropod
Grade 27
5 Bolt
18m The bolted line immediately right of Batman (Pro Bolts)
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Fossil Free Zone
Grade 23
5 Bolt
18m The bolted line immediately right of Theropod (Pro Bolts)
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Name Game
Grade 21
7 Bolt
20m Starts 5m right of Batman at the lowest part of the cliff. Delicate climbing up face past 4 bolts leads to a difficult sequence at the left facing corner. (The only advice I’m allowed to give is, Move left). Continue up the corner to DBC belay. (Pro: 7 Bolts)
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Lock ‘n’ Load
Grade 24
4 Bolt
10m From the Name Game move up onto the narrow ledge that runs along the base of the cliff. In the middle of this face is Lock ‘n’ Load. Power straight up the middle of the wall to a DBC belay. Hard start with the crux at the 4th bolt. (Pro: 4 Bolts)
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Lock ‘n’ Rock
Grade 25
5 Bolt
10m Just right of Lock ‘n’ Load and starting just left of the Manuka tree is Lock’ n’ Rock. Climb the face then veer left and follow the diagonal break to the DBC belay of Lock ‘n’ Load. (Pro: 5 Bolts).
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Stealing Dads Rack
Grade 17
15m The crack and corner system 5m to the right of Lock ‘n’ Rock. Climb the groove and crack to the overhang, which is climbed using the triangular block. BDC belay, descent by abseil. (Pro: CD, Wires)
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Its Not the Size
Grade 20
3 Bolt
9m Just right of the groove of Stealing Dads Rack is a small buttress. Climb up and over the bulge to the ledge and DBC belay. (Pro: 3 Bolts)
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Grit Pike Thin
Grade 19
15m Five metres to the right of “The Triangle”. Start up the slab past a bolt then move into the left facing corner. Climb the crack through step section onto the face then move up to the left facing corner. Once established in the corner (crux) continue up the crack to a DBC belay. Descend by abseil. Dave was going to climb the bottom slab without the bolt, inspired by “Hard Grit” but then Piked. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires)
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Forever 22 in the Gym
Grade 18
15m Just right of the “Grit Pick Thin” climb crack system. (Pro: Trad)
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Natural Progression
Grade 25
5 Bolt
15m The bolted line immediately above the fixed rope (Pro: Bolts)

Showing all routes 18 routes total

Sports - 14 routes - avg. grade 23 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21

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Access: 1/ To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end. 2/ Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track rightwards. 3/ From the right hand end of the Millennium Wall follow a rough track for about 15m till you reach the next distinguishing feature of the Main Cliff, a large right facing arching corner. 4/ From the base of "Three Step to Heaven" (Arch Wall), the track drops down from the cliff before moving right and crossing a large slip. Scramble up the right hand side of the slip to the base. 5/ Down the rope just past the lines of Grit Pike Thin. Are the Galaxy Walls. The point the main access track meets the cliff is by “Hands Christian”, 10m left of this, and starting at the base of the fixed rope is the Lower Galaxy wall, and "Doing it at Dawn".

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Doing it at Dawn
Grade 24
6 Bolt
20m The bolted line immediately left of the fixed rope. At half height take the left handline of bolts (Pro: Bolts)
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No Country for Old Men
Grade 24
6 Bolt
20m Start as for Doing at Dawn but finish up the right hand line of bolts, (Pro: Bolts)
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Easy Lay
Grade 22
6 Bolt
20m 5m to the right.
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Hands Christian
Grade 23
6 Bolt
20m A hard line to onsite. Climb the smooth slab and shallow corner. Move left onto ledge and up the arête above (Pro Bolts)
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Big Bird
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m Climb the low angle groove past a truck load of bolts.
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Defiance
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m Up the hill to the next tier and on the Middle Galaxy wall. Climb the low angle groove and corner system. The crux is getting past the 3rd bolt, however climbing the top corner and face is tricky and solid all the way to the belay. (Pro: 8 Bolts)
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Desperation
Grade 26
8 Bolt
25m The bolted line (Pro: Bolts)
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Short and sweet
Grade 17
10m Trad (Pro: Trad)
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Dani
Grade 20
10m
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Hybrid Heavin
Grade 19
20m
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Project
Grade 0
8 Bolt
25m Continue up the hill to upper level on the, "Upper Galaxy wall"
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Handsome Julio direct
Grade 28
7 Bolt
20m Climb the face (Pro: Bolts)
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Handsome Julio
Grade 24
7 Bolt
20m Use right arte. Down climb and clip 3rd bolt (Pro: Bolts)
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Baby Driver
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m The bolted up the arterline (Pro: Bolts)
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Star Gazer
Grade 18
18m Climb the left face and large over hanging book case corner past 2 bolts before gaining the ledge (crux). Mantel onto the ledge then continue up easy ground to the DBC belay. The first ascent was done without the 2nd bolt. Small friends or wires can be placed between the 3rd and 4th bolt if deemed necessary. (Pro. 5 bolts)
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Galaxy Grovel
Grade 21
4 Bolt
15m Follows the right facing corner and “over vertical” arete 2m to the right of Star Gazer. The first crux is gaining the first shallow ledge and the second is moving onto the arete past the 3rd bolt. Has a pleasant top out. (Pro. 4 Bolts)
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Twinkle Twinkle
Grade 14
6 Bolt
20m Start at the fare right end of the crag and traverse left up a series of ledge to the belay of Galaxy Groval. The bolted up the arter line (Pro: Bolts)
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TE6A
Grade 20
5 Bolt
20m At the fare right hand end of the crag sharing the first bolt of Twinkle Twinkle. Climb the steep face move right at last bolt, dynamic move to the belay. (Pro: 5 Bolts)

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21

Down river from the Dam. There are 3 obvious crack lines, described from left to right.

Access: Down river from the Dam, at the point the main track meets the pipeline and river are a series of cliffs. Make your way into the base of the cliff till you find 3 obvious crack lines.

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The Grim Reaper
Grade 19
18m Around the corner 5m to left of Carless Days is a curving crack line with a number of blocks at the top. Easy climbing up the curved crack is followed by a difficult move into the book case alcove. Climb up and over the blocks above to a SBC belay. (Pro CD, W)
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Carless Days
Grade 19
10m Two metres to the left of Millennium Ways. Start up the prominent hand crack in the small left facing corner then follow the crack through the blocky ground above till it narrows to RP size just before the top. A committing move onto the left ledge is followed by another committing move across right to the belay ledge. A sling round the small tree at the top is a crucial runner. Belay off trees, abseil descent. (Pro: CD, W, RP’s) There are 2 bolts of unknown origin on the arete to the left of Carless Days.
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Millennium Ways
Grade 19
10m The crack system on the right. Start up the ramp then move through the steep ground above. Move right under the roof then follow the crack, veering left 2m from the top to the DBC belay. (Pro. CD, W)
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Synergy
Grade 20
28m Just off the main track 10 m down stream from the point the track meets the pipe line. Climb the right tending line of bolts through a series of corners, grooves aretes and cracks. A very nice, technical climber, one of the better 20’s around.
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Wiggle Wiggle
Grade 20
30m 10m to the right of Synergy. Scramble up onto the top of the pinnacle just to the right of the hanging Totara tree. Sling the tree then climb the shallow groove and mantel onto the large ledge above. Move left then up the small RP size crack, mantel onto the sloping ledge above then move left again into the thin crack. Climb the crack (crux) then continue up through the roofs above, big holds and good gear. Move right at top then back left and belay off the pine tree with chain sling. (Pro:CD, W, RP’s)

Showing all routes 2 routes total

The crag can be seen from the road opposite the Waipapa stream

Access: At very low water the this crag can be gained via a bush bash from the top of Lakeside Wall down the other side on to the mash land then across the flats to you reach a small rock outcrop. This last section is below the high level mark for the lake so It is not the recommended approach. Access is thus best achieved with a boat

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Fallen Angel
Grade 17
18m The chimney and crack system on the right side of the buttress.
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Harvey the Wall Banger
Grade 21
15m The finger then hand crack on the front of the buttress, Nice Line

Showing all routes 50 routes total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 47 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V3 V2 - V3
Piarere

Piarere is situated in the Waikato between Cambridge and Tirau, near the junction of SH1 and SH29. The crag consists of two parallel cliffs, one each side of SH29. It has been described as New Zealand’s most British crag, located as it is on open farmland adjacent to a highway, a few minutes from a tea-room, and even with a pub not too far away. The rock is ignimbrite and, although generally friable in places, gives pleasant climbing mainly in cracks and chimneys. Cracks tend to have rounded edges and widen towards the top. The main cliff faces north and is an ideal place to climb in winter. Nowadays Piarere is eclipsed by the quality crags at Wharepapa. There is still potential for new routes at Piarere.

Access: Permission to climb must be obtained from the landowners. Remember, if you find a gate open leave it open; if you find it shut, close it after you and check that it is properly shut. When you have finished climbing please call in and tell the farmer you are leaving. Take all rubbish with you. Most of the climbs at Piarere are on the Southern Cliff, located on land owned either in full or in partnership by Frank Healy. His farm house is alongside SH29 some 4km east (towards Tauranga) from its junction with SH1, about 400m past the Hinuera Quarry entrance, on a bend, on the southern (cliff side) of the highway. There is a safe parking on the corner. Do not drive onto the farm. After Mr Healy’s permission has been obtained, walk down the race to the old milking sheds, turning left follow the race down the to the second hedgerow. From here head down to the rock following the hedge. At the rock turn left again and 50m or so will bring you to ‘The Spring’. All the climbs are described either from the left or from the right of The Spring. The reasons for this are that The Spring is in the middle of the crag, the best climbs are situated nearby, and it’s somewhere cool and damp to leave your beer. Climbs to the left of Late Night are on Maori land currently leased to Mr Duncan, who can be contacted by phone on Hinuere 791. There are only three climbs to date on the smaller northern cliff and permission must be sought from Mr Vosper, whose farmhouse is the first on the left past the quarry when coming from SH1.

Attribution: www.freeclimb.co.nz. hosted By Cliff Ellery, written by Pete Manning

Showing all routes 21 routes total

Trad - 20 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V3 V2 - V3
Springl

The climbs are described from left to right, opposite to the approach. The obvious chimney system above. The spring remains unclimbed . It could offer good caving , I mean climbing, but watch for the possible loose rock.

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Visions of Rolling Doughnuts
Grade 17
10m 50m left of the Prow. An S-shaped hand to fist crack in the middle of a steep wall with a small roof at third height. From the ledge , fist jams lead through the roof (crux). The crack above widens and the curves as the face leans back. Tape up your arm, this bites!
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Overcammed
Grade 17
15m The second crack to the right of The Prow. Some jamming, some Offwidth. A poor line broken by large ledges.
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The Prow
Grade 22
20m 300m left of the Pinnacle and wall worth the walk. Hidden in the grove of a mahoe trees but impossible to miss. (However I have yet to find it..Cliff) A tight handcrack running up the middle of the Prow. – a narrow protruding arete. There is a small cabbage tree at the top of the climb. The rock is soft in the middle of the climb but it is easy jamming country. The crux is the top vertical section which is on reasonably good rock.
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Blood of a Lamb
Grade 18
20m 50m left of "The Pinnacle" is an obvious right facing corner broken at half height by a large ledge on the right hand side. Thorn bush at base. A nice clean corner that just begs to be climbed. Layback and bridge to the ledge on good rock, then jam to the top.
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The Pinnacle
Grade 16
10m 50m left of a stream is a hedge row. 10m or so further left is an obvious leaning pinnacle. Climbed by the slab on the back. There is an abseil bolt in place but I suggest you back it up as it’s been there along time.
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Late Nites
Grade 15
8m Immediately left of " Dai Thrytchyn" and just around the corner, before the ditch , is a pretty slab on the side of a boulder. Climb up the middle of the slab past one bolt, step left at the second bolt. A pleasant route for beginners. Either climb down the back of the boulder to a ledge and then jump into the leafy gully , or wait at the top to be rescued by a fireman.
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Dai Thrytchyn
Grade 15
8m A short steep right-facing corner with a thorn bush at the base. Climb the hand crack. This route finishes on a small grassy knoll. Descent by jumping off the ledge on the other side into a gully full of dead leaves.
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Ice Cream Jimme
Grade 17
12m A right facing corner. Jam and bridge the corner. The crack widens to offwidth in the top section. Take care with the loose flake which forms one wall of the crack at mid height.
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Yo Gotta Say Yes (to another excess)
Grade 10
10m The chimney 1m right of the “Ice Cream Jimmie”
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Short Crack
Grade 16
10m 50m left of fence/hedgerow. A short climb with a long description. The description is the crux. A crack of about knee and shoulder width in a corner. Climb this for some 3m to a large grassy ledge leading off to the right. A wider chimney leads up from here behind a stout pinnacle detached from the main face. Climb this to a spike, then left along a sharp level rib a metre or so and awkwardly up the crack/chimney to the top of the four boulder in a row (??). Descend down the same crack but at the back. .
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Middle Earth