Sports - 69 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Bullock%20creek2AboretumBullock1 0Bullock2Paraintro 1

Welcome to climbing in the Paparoas, including the 'world famous' Bullock Creek and the Punakaiki River Valley. This isn't your average sport climbing destination, but it has something for everyone. North-facing limestone crags that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. History Development of the area began with a visit from Robin Hood back in 1985-86 when Robin and a mate put up two climbs at Hanging Gardens (Dogs in Space and a project which later became The Great Gatsby). This was the very first stage of Bullock Creek development and it ended when the river flooded and Robin was forced to swim to the wall to recover his gear. Next came a group of Greymouth climbers led by Bruce Dowrick in 1999 who put up a selection of climbs at Hanging Gardens before having a disagreement with DOC over the unsightliness of a static rope. The disagreement halted development until 2008, when Jack Grinsted fired the cannon and called in some legendary Kiwi climbers including Lindsay Main, Joe Arts and Neil Silverwood who also saw the potential shimmering in the cliff now known as the Arboretum. Over the next few years Jack and various merry men returned to put up new lines in both Bullock Creek and the Punakaiki River Valley. The winter of 2014 saw a heap of development from Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington who put up nearly two dozen new pitches. As of January 2015 Bullock Creek has undergone its biggest development phase to date with funding graciously provided by a Sport New Zealand Hillary Expedition Grant. The team received funding to put up 30 new routes in 30 days at the newly found Paradise Crag and its outlying walls, with the help of many visiting friends. Bullock Creek lies within the Paparoa National Park. Route Developers and Climbers should take care to preserve and protect the the conservation and cultural values of the area. Specific care should be taken not to disturb Gossamer Grass (Anamenthale lessonia) a 'Nationally Vulnerable' species. Also note that bivy caves may be considered culturally sensitive by Ngati Wae Wae. During the past few months there has been confusion and argument over whether bolting climbs at Bullock Creek is acceptable to the Department of Conservation. This issue is now over, with DOC and NZAC in agreement that the Bullock Creek area is suitable for the development of bolted climbs. The forthcoming management plan for Paparoa National Park will reflect this.

Access: About 2km north of Punakaiki, turn right (east) up Bullock Creek Road. The climbing is on the opposite side of the creek bed from the road. Information also available in http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Showing all routes 16 routes total Time 3min 100 m

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Sports - 13 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
 mg 8074 edit 0

North Facing limestone Crags, that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. The first three climbs are located exactly 150 paces upriver from the main crag (Hanging Gardens). Lost in Time and Love From Me are on a face directly behind a small patch of grass 20m from the sandy riverbed. The Crack of Beyond is tucked up at the gully to the right of this.

Access: The Hanging Gardens is the last major cliff band on the right hand side of the valley when driving up the road, 5.3km up the Bullock Creek Road. There is a small pull over by a single tree where you can see the crag clearly from the road. Vague trail crosses small creek and grassy meadow. If raining hard keep an eye on the creek.

Attribution: Lindsay Main & Jason Blair. Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
Lost in Time
Grade 22
7 Bolt
18m Start left of the small prow, bust through some dusty scoops to some entertaining moves on the face above.
-
Love From Me
Grade 19
7 Bolt
18m Not hard to tell this route was put up by a skier-cum-climber. A slalom course of a line. Starts right of the prow and deke left to share the 3rd bolt of Lost in Time before carving back through the big scoops to finish up the vague arête.
-
Crack of Beyond
Grade 16
This route is well hidden about 50 metres upstream on a small crag tucked up in the bush. A perfect, aesthetic handcrack on yellow rock, with its own protecting overhang above.
-
Crème Brulee
Grade 12, 22
1. This route is on the left of the crag and starts above a scrubby bank with a cut-off fixed rope. Climb from the tree to the cut fixed rope (good cams) to gain the vegetated ledge directly under the arête. Anchor to tree and root.
2. Climb steep white rock to the left and then move right to gain the arête, and continue to the chains. Sustained.
-
Champing at the bit
Grade 14
17m 50m up stream of IoI on river bank beneath the deserted bee hive. Follow a series of cracks then step right to chimney thing and anchor above.
IoI
Illusions of Inadequacy
Grade 19
On the main part of the crag, starting directly from the usually dry riverbed. Starting on the left of the wall against the trees, follow a vague crack rightward to a stance and overhang, and pull up on good holds on the left. Pass the thread (previously the anchor) at 15 metres and continue to the ring anchors below the overhang. Since recent retro-bolting, this climb has about five bolts. Dean Arthur, 1999.
HA&V
Heart Attack & Vine
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Second pitch of Illusions of Inadequacy. Move up through the overhang to belay station. Best climbed as one 25m pitch from the ground. The third pitch to the overlap and beyond is unclimbed.
SP
Seemingly Psychedelic
Grade 24
13 Bolt
29m Best climbed as one 29m pitch from the ground. Climb Illusions of Inadequacy to last bolt then veer right wards to ledge then through the small roof, then its steep slab climbing on excellent rock all the way to the anchor. You can be lowered to the ground on a 60m rope but when cleaning best lower to anchor of IoI and re-thread.
KD
Knee Deep
Grade 20
6 Bolt
18m 3m right of IoL. Start left of bush to gain crack, up over bulge then up slab to a good stance below large flake, around this to a mantle finish.
Opp
Opportunivore
Grade 18
This route is based on the crack. Start as for Bush Chick and move left after clipping its first bolt and gain the crack, followed by a crux move to the groove. Follow the crack and move right to the chains. Originally quite committing on gear, but now protected with bolts.
BC
Bush Chick
Grade 17
6 Bolt
Very nice climbing through the left of the overhang, clipping about six bolts.
WtWW
Where The Weka Was
Grade 21
Hard crimpy moves to reach a high first bolt (a lower one may be added) to protect the moves through the small overlap, then easier to the overhang. Pull through heading right, and back left to the chains.
OMW
Organic Migraine
Grade 0
2 Bolt
8m RH side of crag, a neat little route that climbs up to the rata root... (still needs an anchor - single bolt lower off atm)
-
Nicotine Rampage
Grade 21
3m left of DiS
DiS
Dogs in Space
Grade 18
6 Bolt
Right hand side of the crag, up on the terrace above river. A bouldery face leads you up to the crack and easier climbing. Total classic.
tGG
The Great Gatsby
Grade 21
10 Bolt
20m Somewhat of a romantic drama. Start up Dogs in Space, at 3rd bolt step right and head up to chain draw then step right again on good holds to gain to the classy arete (crux) and then up arete to anchor. When cleaning best to redirect off the chain draw to avoid swinging into bush.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 10 min 100 m

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The%20forum%20topo%2c%20900%20

The Forum is the narrow wall just upstream of the Arboretum, about 400 metres downstream from the Hanging Garden. Though not as sheltered as other crags, it may remain dry in a light southerly. Pitches are 25 to 30 metres long, with the wall gaining extra exposure credits from the traversing approach to the first belay station at the 30 metre level.

Access: The first crag you reach from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver until you reach a flagged trail signposted "Forum" leading off to the left after about 100m after entering the riverbed (if you arrive at the log jam you've gone too far). Take the vague trail up to the left through the bush to a fixed traverse line 1/2 way up the cliff. Traverse out to a belay station, the three climbs start from here.

Attribution: Lindsay Main

1
Francis' route
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m Directly above the anchor. Shares the first two bolts of Absent Friends before moving slightly left to steep crimpy wall (crux), followed by easier climbing on a slab. Continue up an exposed arête to finish on slopey holds.
2
Absent Friends
Grade 18
9 Bolt
25m From the second bolt continue up on good holds slightly rightward and then a little left on a slab. A white area in a corner leads to the first bulge (crux), with tricky moves to high holds. Bolted by Simon Courtois.
3
Double Trouble
Grade 20, 19
17 Bolt
1. 28m 20, 28m. From the first bolt move right (the second bolt can be clipped with a sling) and follow the bolts diagonally to a shallow groove, where the climbing steepens. Up to the right of a small tree on small holds to a dirty crack; then bridge up under the bulge, step left and balance through the bulge heading left on slopers (crux) to the station.
2. 25m 19, 25m. Step out right to clip the first bolt and move cautiously up to the vegetated ledge. Muscle up through the overhangs and balance on to the ledge; then follow the bolts through a couple of shallow scoops to the final moves up the white streak.

Showing all routes 25 routes total Time 10 min 100 m

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Sports - 17 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
AboretAbore

North-facing limestone crags that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. The Arboretum comprises a set of crags about 60–80 metres high. Much of the rock is un-featured and routes tend to follow the large cracks which break up the cliff. Characteristically the heart of Bullock Creek, in its Jurassic like setting, and its diverse climbing on rock that varies from solid-as to choss pile as you climb through the different layers of limestone. It offers up a handful of moderate multi-pitch adventures as well as some thought provoking trad lines. The Arboretum is also home to the notorious Gumboot Ledge, which has been described by one unnamed individual as "the best climbing at Bullock Creek!" and another as "it's as loose and dirty as the route developers." I'm leaning towards the latter, although Arc of a Diver and Plan B are both classic in their own right

Access: : Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver past the Forum to a trail marked "A1" on a sign hanging in a tree (just before the log jam). This track will take you to Arboretum (left) which includes While You See a Chance and Nevermind the Bullocks, both of these climbs will give you access to the climbs on Gumboot Ledge. For the climbs at Arboretum (right) continue down the riverbed, through the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. 50m further when you reach a junction, turn left on the trail marked "A2". Take the rock stairs uphill. Squeeze past a tree and you will have reached the wall. The mellow left facing corner crack in front of you is Crackerjack.

Attribution: Lindsay Main & Jason Blair. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 10 min 150 m

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Aborlh

The ledge on the left side of the Arboretum, halfway up.

Access: Accessed by climbing either While You See A Chance or Never Mind the Bullocks.

Attribution: Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

3
Arc Of A Diver
Grade 16, 19, 20
16 Bolt
1. 18m From the dusty chimney step on to the right wall and gain the arête. Continue on large, solid holds (big space between bolts) and through the juggy overhang. On up the increasingly exposed arête to a crux just before the move right to a two-ring anchor.
2. 15m Easily up to the narrow point on the arête and move right where it steepens. Negotiate loose rock at the right and move left (crux) to a rest. Easily up the jugs to a chain station at the ledge with a small tree.
3. 8m Awkwardly gain the right-leading ramp and climb past three bolts. Then climb the face delicately to the chain anchor (crux).
4
Up To The Neck
Grade 18
18m Naturally-protected route starting at the corner/crack just right of a two-ring station. Starts on black rock with good holds. From a bolt traverse right four metres to an anchor station.
5
Blistering Banacles
Grade 17, 17
1. 18m Start at a high anchor station on the right side of Gumboot Ledge, climb through the overhang on solid white rock to a ledge; then after two bolts move left and climb the right-facing corner and crack to a chain station.
2. 15m This pitch was led on natural gear and down-climbed. Follow the crack through appallingly loose black rock with crux moves bridging into a small cave. Large gear for pro.
6
Plan B
Grade 19
11 Bolt
30m Can be combined with Never Mind The Bullocks for a 70 metre, 3 pitch route. Start as for Blistering Barnacles, but continue straight up the crack which steepens steadily. Move through the overhangs to rests; then climb the upper slopey section to the tree and a chain anchor
1
While You See A Chance
Grade 15, 18
11 Bolt
1. 15m Starts on the very left of the crag just after the track first meets the rock, following a wide crack. Climb the sloping slab on the right with bridging left across to the arête before engaging the crack. Steep moves past the third bolt to belly-flop on to the vegetated ledge, followed by a repeat performance to gain the belay station.
2. 22m Climb the unprotected crack to the first bolt (could be easier when it cleans up a bit); then up the wide crack with bolts on the right arête. At the ledge move right and climb the face and through a small overlap (crux) to gain a crack. Above the ledge large jugs on the right lead up to a steep finish under the tree on Gumboot Ledge.
2
Never Mind The Bullocks
Grade 20, 18
16 Bolt
1. 25m Starts at a wide crack and corner, with bolts on the left arête. Chimneying, bridging, lay-backing, jamming … all the traditional techniques. Above the chimney is a steep crux, followed tricky jamming to a spacious belay ledge. Unfortunately this pitch is very dirty.
2. 12m Excellent pitch with classic finger crack and jamming. Move right 2-3 metres to another corner and climb the crack to a station on the right, just below Gumboot Ledge.
7
Black Sheep
Grade 18, 19
12 Bolt
1. 25m 8m left of Blunt Arete. This distinctive crack is protected by seven bolts. Can also be done on gear now the crack has been cleaned.
2. 15m Climb right and up through a juggy roof. Short but stellar pitch. Descend from the eerie belay station.
8
Blunt Arete
Grade 19
8 Bolt
20m Clip the first two bolts of Rock Ahoy then wander leftwards up the vague arete.
9
Rock Ahoy
Grade 18
6 Bolt
20m A wide crack 5m right of Black Sheep. A boldery start leads to easy climbing then harder moves above. Fairly well protected but still feels a little wild.
10
Fresh Bananas
Grade 19
The Crack 3 metres right of Rock Ahoy. Bomber gear up to the ledge then place your last piece and pull through some jugs to a DBA
11
Slanted and Enchanted
Grade 18
18m Follows the large pillar directly left of Nomad. Place gear in the crack to the left. The upper, more difficult section is protected by four bolts. Finish at the Nomad DBA.
12
Nomad
Grade 19
On the left of the wall against the vegetation is this handsome hand crack. Good climbing, with bridging and jamming. Climb to a steep crack (crux) then follow the right crack. Step left to a DBA.
13
Short Story Long
Grade 21
7 Bolt
20m Start in the small left-facing corner between 'With Friends like these' and 'Nomad'. Delicate face climbing
14
With Friends Like These
Grade 18, 19, 19
20 Bolt
1. 15m Scramble on to a block and step on to the slab, tending leftward. Delicate moves past the third bolt (crux), then up the faint corner with a move on the right wall to gain the limited stance with ring anchors.
2. 12m Continue up an intermittent crack with bridging and some nice fist jams to a steepening but juggy top. Move right to the double ring station in the corner.
3. 20m Climb up & left of the belay through steep rock to easier ground. Pull through two more small overhangs before finishing at a magical & mystical belay.
15
Crackerjack
Grade 13
Obvious easy crack climb with good gear in the corner, finishing at the same belay station as Neil’s other pitch.

Showing all routes 10 routes total Time 15 min 100 m

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Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
2towers

Originally classified as part of the Arboretum, the Two Towers now stand alone offering some unique climbing to those that venture to the unmistakable cliff. Home to a handful of Bullock Creek's easiest climbs, it's a great first stop to test out the rock if you're new to the area. However, the cracks on the wall have a tendency to be a little dirty due to a dusty ledge above. Don't let this put you off. Just dust of the holds, crack a smile and get a feel for what it is like to climb on a stack of pancakes.

Access: Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". 50m down this trail is a 12m high perfect hand crack, this is 'The Ruairi McAree'. Turning back upriver at this point underneath the cliffs will lead you to Rumble in the Jungle, More Bang For Your Buck and Every Dog Has His Day. Alternatively, access the Karearea Shelf (and the rest of the Two Towers routes) via The Ruairi McAree or by continuing along the trail (downriver) beneath the cliffs to a massive windfall area. Scramble uphill over a stump and back left through a slot between some boulders onto the shelf.

Attribution: Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Rumble In The Jungle
Grade 16, 16
9 Bolt
1. 25m Lay back on slab then up left through a roof and traverse hard left round the corner at the forth bolt to a DBA.
2. Enjoyable climbing up the corner to an exposed finish.
2
More Bang For Your Buck
Grade 17
9 Bolt
30m Starts 5m left of the direct start to Every Dog Has His Day. Layback the slab and head up through a featured roof to gain the wall above. Great climb with lots of variety!
3
Every Dog Has His Day
Grade 20
9 Bolt
25m Starts at the hard left side of the Two Towers. Clip the First bolt of Go You Good Thing and traverse left. Clip the second and third bolts and through some delicate moves to gain the scoop. Climb through a short overhang to gain the main face and finally the top slab. Sustained. There is also a direct start from the ground below the grassy ledge.
4
The Ruairi McAree
Grade 15
12m Start from the tree root and climb the scruffy left hand cam-eating corner up to the start of "slow jazz." An alternative method for getting to the Karearea shelf. Descend via the trail to the right
5
Go You Good Thing Go
Grade 15
6 Bolt
20m Low bolt for the belayer. Bridge up a featured chimney, past 5 bolts then climb to the left of the 6th bolt (crux) and up to the DBA (Cleaned and a bolt added 2014).
6
Slow Jazz
Grade 17
10 Bolt Trad
30m Slow Jazz. Fun climbing in the corner and on the arete, finishing at DBA left of the roof. One or two large wires at the bottom. I will proably bolt this at some stage in keeping with the surrounding bolted cracks. Best bring belayer up to Slow Jazz DBA before traversing to ISGM as the traverse is a bit loose.
7
I Support Gay Marriage
Grade 20
10 Bolt
30m Spectacular route up hanging pillar and through overhanging buttress. Access via short bolted traverse from the top anchor of Slow Jazz.
8
My Empire Of Dirt
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m A large crack with a roof that divides the wall. Tends to rain dirt from the ledge above. Originally climbed on gear, but now fully bolted.
9
Ohu, Karearea
Grade 18, 22, 19
20 Bolt
1. 25m Start up the crack or the yellow face to the right and climb the crack, moving right at the horizontal break. Up the slab and headwall to gain the vegetated ledge. Finish up the steep short wall to the next ledge and ring anchors.
2. 25m Climb slightly to the right then back left to gain the flowstone, then swing up on to the wall. Up on small holds to an easier section trending right. Then up and left through the overhang to exit to the ledge and anchor chain.
3. 15m Start at the right edge of the ledge and climb the wall to meet the arête five metres up (great holds). Gain the slab to the right and balance up to the runnel. Bridge up to a very thought-provoking move to the anchor.
10
Unfinished Business
Grade 17, 25
13 Bolt
1. 25m Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left.
2. 25m Pull through the roof (crux) with long moves and climb the upper wall to meet the finish of pitch 2 (and crux section) of Ohu, Karearea.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 20 mins 100 m

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Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Coloseum

Aptly named, the Colosseum is the gargantuan rock face that looms over the flax field as you drive up the road. Aside from immaculate rock, the crag also provides an awesome bivy site complete with its own reliable spring if you're looking to spend a few days up the creek. Full of potential, but with relatively few routes, The Colosseum is the mid-20's developers dream.

Access: Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". The trail splits again 100m further on, take the right fork (signposted "Colosseum") and follow this marked trail for 10 minutes along the base of the cliff until you reach a small bivy site. The climbs start 50m right of here.

Attribution: Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Partial Project
Grade 0
23 Bolt
Equipped by Lindsay Main
2
Nelly's Nut
Grade 21, 21
12 Bolt
1. 20m Up through a steep featured roof to a a arete above. Finish at the HBAT DBA. Terrific route on good rock.
2. 15m Easy climbing up and left of the belay leads to a tricky finish in a thin crack.
3
Hanging by a Thread
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m After a bouldery start head slightly right. Delicate moves through the crux on small holds gives way to easier climbing above. Quality rock.
4
How's Your French
Grade 19, 18, 23
27 Bolt
1. 15m Starts to the right of the large vine. Climb the steep but short wall and traverse left, scamble up an easy unprotected corner. Step right to clip the 2nd bolt. Climb up past 2 more bolts and traverse right to a DBA.
2. 30m A long and varied pitch. Finish at a vegetated ledge and traverse right to a DBA. Classic Bullock Creek Climbing!
3. 30m Easy ground to a steep, overhanging Arete and lower angled but difficult climbing above.
5
Pretty Little Hate Machine
Grade 20
28m This route is etched with history, a true love/hate relationship whose essence oozes from the pores in the rock as you climb. Far right side of Colosseum, has 3 bolts to get you started and save your mid/large cams for the funky upper section.

Showing all routes 7 routes total 100 m

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Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Believe2 0Believe

Believe Crag routes make good use of a band of limestone that has clean, hard characteristics with excellent friction. Move past trees and low grade rock to find exposed climbing on excellent rock. Just Believe.

Access: The car park to the Believe Crag is found about 3.4km up the road at a corner 100m before the "Public Notice - if water is across the road do not continue" sign, which marks the start of the big wetland. Walk 50m back along the road to find the start of the track. A natural rock bridge allows an easy crossing of Bullock Creek in low to moderate flow. However, crossing the creek here in high flows could be problematic. The track steadily steepens up to the base of the cliff.

Attribution: From the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa

1
Believe
Grade 18
13 Bolt Trad
31m Believe starts up an obvious corner with a small tree growing out of it. Cam placements are available before the bolts start. There are two sets of abseil rings. One on the main vegetated ledge, and the other on the ledge below. It is 30m from the lower set of rings to the ground.
2
Porcelain
Grade 23
14 Bolt
27m Clean, featured climbing with delicate, sculptured holds. Enjoy interesting face climbing with thought provoking moves and some unbelievable porcelain limestone features. Climb a the pillar up to a small roof and crank up the overhanging headwall.
3
One For the People
Grade 21
7 Bolt
18m From the top of Believe climb the clean corner then step left onto an arête. Pull through the bulge and delicately climb up and right to the anchor shared with Pitons of Faith.
4
Pitons Of Faith
Grade 17
8 Bolt
This short pitch was originally led with a few dodgy pitons for pro. The shiny stainless bolts now provide more than adequate protection.
5
Fly Like a Phoenix
Grade 19
5 Bolt
18m From the top of Pitons of Faith enjoy a jug haul up to the lip of the roof. Pull through and run it out to the ledge at the top. Some threads are available for nervous climbers.
6
The Clean Dirt Path
Grade 16
This crumbling corner was used for the initial access to the top of the crag. Not recommended.
7
Piss Weak
Grade 18
7 Bolt
30m Belay on the highest part of the main ledge. Climb right initially and continue up the blunt arête, finishing just above the bush.

Showing all routes 29 routes total Time 20 mins 100 m

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Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro 0Paradisel

Large area of low angle rock, around 30m high. The story behind Paradise: In mid 2014 Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington applied for funding from Sport NZ. Every second year grants are given out to New Zealanders doing innovative adventures around the globe. Perhaps due to a serious lack of applications Sport NZ awarded the pair a grant for route development at Bullock Creek. Warrington and Silverwood had promised to put up 30 routes in 30 days, complete a guide book, and name their first born 'Sport NZ'. Paradise Bivy was used as advanced base camp and almost all the routes at this crag were created during January 2015. Exhaustion, rain and frustration with living in the dirt slowed progress to a crawl and by half way through the month they only had 10 climbs completed. A post on social media promising free bolts, food and a can of double brown brought in reinforcements in the form of a few more keen route developers. On day 29 of the trip the 30th climb went up. The final tally for the month was 33 new climbs (37 pitches).

Access: Park at 1.9km down Bullock Creek Road from SH6 on one of the several grassy parking spots on the right-hand side. Walk 60m further along the road from the last parking spot looking for a marked track leading down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow the trail uphill for 20 minutes before turning upriver underneath the cliffs. Access to the Cuckoo's Nest, is by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline. Follow the goat trail along, dipping back into the bush occasionally to a spacious bivy cave. The Climbs from " Little Timmy the Guzzberry" to " Just Another Day" are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro

To the left or up stream from the Main Paradise Wall (Left Wall)

Access: Follow the marked trail beyond the bivy along the base of the cliff for 5 minutes until you duck under a large tree to arrive at the base of High Contrast.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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High Contrast
Grade 21
7 Bolt
24m Like driving a motorbike over Arthur's Pass: lots of cruising with some scary bits in between. Starts on the little podium on the very left of the wall and remember to ignore TomTom's bolts just to the right and continue straight up to a desperate finish.
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TomTom
Grade 21
10 Bolt
29m Someone forgot to tell these boys they're not in The Cave anymore. A fine link up nonetheless encompassing the more exciting parts of both routes. Starts up the first 3 bolts of The Irony then meanders left to finish up High Contrast.
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The Irony
Grade 20
10 Bolt
28m Climb the clean crème brûlée through some reachy moves to the crack where the climbing mellows. For extra fun stay on the pillar right of the crack. Extending the last runner will help with rope drag if top roping.
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Room With a View
Grade 21
11 Bolt
28m Friendly-as for those looking to push their White Wall experience. Use the first 2 bolts of The Irony (sling the 2nd) before heading off right for some absolutely elegant climbing. Join back up with Irony after pulling over the last bulge.
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House of Cards
Grade 19, 18
12 Bolt
1. 15m The handholds don't get much better than is … good thing because it's pretty rumpy pumpy
2. 15m The climbing mellows, but the fun doesn't. Weave your way up the line of bolts to a hidden belay on a small ledge to the right.
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Thirty One.
Grade 17, 18
17 Bolt
1. 10m Short little pitch to get the ball rolling, climb up the flowstone and veer off left to the belay on a small ledge
2. 30m The meat and potatoes pitch, you probably won't have room for dessert after this one, follow the line of bolts consciously trying to avoid bridging on the loose looking rock behind you as much as possible.
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Don't Tell Mum
Grade 22
5 Bolt
13m Nice little boulder problem. Starts up a slab that turns into an overhanging pillar at half height. Well worth a stop for a few minutes to sort out the sequence on the upper part of the route.
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paradiser

The wall to the right side of the main crag and bivy.

Access: All of the following climbs between the campsite bivy and the next sandy overhang to the right are accessed via the grass slope from the right. The climbs between PB & Blimp Redemption all start up PB, the wide crack just left of the sandy overhang.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Smigglepuss
Grade 19
21m Hidden up in the trees just after jumping over the small ditch. Start off the tree and jump into the crack (literally if you wish) and work your way up this thrutchy line and smiggle your way into the slightly overhanging off-width section protected by 2 bolts. Gear to #3 Camalot.
2
Specist
Grade 25
26m Climb Smigglepuss to the ledge, whacking in a bunch of dirty ol' cams then put on your sport booties and dance out onto the right face. Techy and crimpy with a dramatic finish.Troy gives it 8 out of 3 stars and says 'soft 25' which translates to a pretty good grade 26 for the rest of us. Only needs a handful of cams #.75 – 3.
3
PB
Grade 16
2 Bolt
12m Debated whether it stands for 'peanut butter' or 'pointless but necessary', a dirty little pitch up the jug infested crack below the rata tree that gives access to the following climbs on the ledge above.
4
Teardrops From Space
Grade 21
13 Bolt
36m Longer is always better. Climb PB, but step left before getting to the ledge, clip a bolt and mantle like you mean it. Veer left to navigate your way through brokenness to the marathon of gray goodness above. Lower off to PB's ledge and abseil twice unless you've got an extra-long rope.
5
At a Pinch
Grade 18
11 Bolt
26m Climb PB's crack to the ledge, make sure your belayer is paying attention and pull through some hardish moves to get up into the corner and into a whole new world of funk and squeezy weirdness that feels more like caving than climbing. Makes a nice short multi-pitch if you decide to split it up by stopping on PB's ledge
6
Man on Wire
Grade 24
8 Bolt
24m This prize line speaks for itself. Excellent climbing in an outstanding position. Starts from PB's ledge, belay from the double bolt anchor, clip the high bolt on the slab before venturing out to the shallow crack at the arête. The start is apparently closer to 25/26 no matter how you do it.
7
Blimp Redemption
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m This climb started out like an onion; covered in an unappealing brown and yellow skin, but after a few days of scrubbing the outer layers came off and left this tear streamer of a route. Originally climbed on gear, it's now fully bolted for safety and mental health reasons.
9
Waiting for a Sunny Day (Prj)
Grade 0
4 Bolt
10m Starts left of the overhang with a leap to the large hollow sounding flake (don't belay below this). The remainder is self explanatory. Always dry.

Kiki Corner is the furthest right wall of Paradise.

Access: Located up the steep slope through the kiki with a fixed handline just right of the Love Shack. The Love Shack is the furthest right sandy overhang and the first one you arrive at when walking up the trail from the car park

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

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WTF Silverwood! It's a Sloper!
Grade 21
5 Bolt
15m Climb the arête left of Kiki My Eeky. Surprisingly tricky and a sticky heel will help you stay on. Grade 21 if you avoid using the dirty back wall until the 4th bolt. Equipped by Neil Silverwood
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Kiki My Eeky
Grade 18
26m You'd never guess this innocent looking open book corner could strike terror into so many sport climbers, but then again they've probably heard of a finger lock. Keep your eyes peeled for sneaky gear placements beside the crack. By the way, the diving board has been tested to 85kg.
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Blast-phemy
Grade 19
26m Starts 3m right of Kiki My Eeky, Clip a low bolt then blast upwards through the fist crack through some lovely slots and stays left of the tree and shrubbery. Finally clip another bolt and dart immediately left into the corner to finish up Kiki My Eeky.
1
Every Tear a Waterfall
Grade 20
7 Bolt
18m A delightful number especially if you have a knack for finding hidden holds. Starts just before dropping right into the gully enroute to the Cuckoo's Nest.
2
A Quarter to Sunshine
Grade 19
10 Bolt
22m The first climb at Paradise. A well protected groovy little climb just left out of the Cuckoo's Nest over top of the handline and up into the immaculate rock.
3
One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest
Grade 22
7 Bolt
22m Starts off the pillar moving left. A naughty little crux leads to some grade 18/19 climbing above, finishing in a fine position on the small arête.
4
Chocolate X's
Grade 17
9 Bolt
23m Chimney fiesta! Just like vegemite, don't knock it till you've tried it. Jump off right from the pillar and follow the friendly line of bolts to the slab above
5
Little Timmy the Guzzberry
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Black Coffee's annoyingly close younger sibling, great climbing nonetheless. Takes the left side of the dubious but solid jugs to the left side of the arête, until finally stepping out to share the last bolt of Black Coffee.
6
Black Coffee
Grade 18, 19
15 Bolt
1. 20m Better than it looks and gets even better higher up. Psych yourself up for the crux at the small roof
2. 22m Step right to a bolt, ignoring the instantaneous exposure and storm upwards to the arête and beyond. Finish up via the last 2 bolts of Chocolate X's.
7
Bent
Grade 18
5 Bolt
13m Ballerina shoes might be more appropriate for the crux on this climb. Up the slab past some uber delicate moves at the 2nd bolt and then disappear off left behind the tree to the anchor.
8
Meanderthal
Grade 18
8 Bolt
20m The fairly well vegetated crack at the highpoint in the gully (the bolts just left of the crack). Bridge up, stepping left gently onto the slab, up past the tree then its time to use your imagination to get back into the crack. Bridge like a starfish all the way to the top.
9
Famous People Aren't so Famous
Grade 23
11 Bolt
28m A tricky number that keeps you on your toes right to the top. Start up Meanderthal's crack, clip the bolt on the right wall, and head for the sandy scoop. From here it's pretty self-explanatory, pre-crimp your fingers and follow the bolts. Can be helpful to sling the 4th and 6th bolt.
10
Assisted Suicide
Grade 19
30m The crack hidden behind the kawakawa trees. Imagine finding a piece of gold whilst out scouring the beach for greenstone. That's how Silverwood must have felt finding this gem. Sustained and terrifying climbing from start to finish, crux hits you at 7m, protected by good cams. A standard rack just cuts it, and a 00 micro cam up top will keep your shorts dry.
11
Just Another Day
Grade 22
9 Bolt
22m Recommended for both the quality of climb and for the bonus option of belaying from your sleeping bag. Start on the grass just left of the bivy with rings for its bottom two bolts.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 30 mins 100 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Machupicchu

Machu Picchu is arguably the best crag in Bullock Creek if you are the type of person that: • enjoys easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing on naturally clean rock • likes watching the sunset over the ocean from a kushy ledge after your climb • can't stand climbing on the same type of rock for two pitches in a row • wants a steep and gnarly approach through some fine west coast bush

Access: : Drive up Bullock Creek Road and park at a small grassy parking spot on the right-hand side with a large log (1.8km from SH6). Walk back down the road 10m and take a steep gravel bank down to the creek. Cross using a rock bridge and follow the flagging tape through thick bush up a steep and sometimes slippery track to the base of the cliffs. Climbs are accessed via a short handline onto a ledge located 30m right of where the trail meets the rock.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Dark and Ominous
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Starts on a low angled slab and ascends the arete above.
2
Sweet Jane, Jane Cuts loose
Grade 16, 16, 18
21 Bolt
1. 15m Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
2. 15m From the DBA traverse left to the Arete. Then up right to a 2nd DBA.
3. 24m This pitch was added 5 years after the lower two. Climb right of the DBA. Clip 3 bolts and reach for a jug out right. Follow the line of bolts through super featured rock to an atmospheric belay station. Wild.
3
Crown of Thorns
Grade 20, 0
10 Bolt
1. 30m Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
2. Closed project.