Fetched from ClimbNZ on Nov 17th, 2017

Showing all routes 588 routes total

Trad - 261 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Alpine - 213 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+
Sports - 114 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+

Showing all routes 260 routes total Time 10–20 min 3 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Trad - 239 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 21 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Cs1Cs4Cs9 0

Check the weather, check the tide, check the swell!

Great rock climbing exists on seacliffs near Charleston, on the West Coast between Greymouth and Westport. The cliffs are up to 40 metres high and consist of gneiss, a metamorphised granite. The quality is generally good. A great variety of climbing is found: delicate face climbs, crack climbs, chimneys, corners and overhangs. The holds are usually large and the harder climbs are steep. Friction is excellent. Most are easy to middle grade, with only few hard routes. Many fantastic lines await ascents. Most climbs are walk on and walk off.

The West Coast has a reputation for rain, but often it is enjoying a glorious fine spell when it’s raining in Canterbury. Climbing is very pleasant throughout the year.

Routes are described from north to south, and left to right facing the cliffs. Access is walk-on, with wave-cut platforms at the base of the cliffs. Be wary of waves breaking over the platform, and keep clear of surge holes. Cover up against sandflies.

Climbing Notes

Generally the rock is sound – often perfect – but care needs to be taken with occasional loose blocks and flakes, particularly on first ascents. Bring a good rack with CDs, hexes, wedges, and so on. Climb it as you see it.

We apologise to any first ascentionists not credited. There is a strong local convention of on-sight leading of new routes: “These cliffs suit the adventurous, and not so much the tricksters.” So let's try for that ideal, and report first ascent methods precisely. Some new routes will need bolts though, and these should be placed in the best positions from a top rope. Bolts, hangers and inserts must be of stainless steel only, because of the high corrosion rate.

History

Early use was made of the cliffs by Buller High School under the watchful eye of Paul Caffyn. Since then, more than 170 routes have been led. Key figures in the development of the cliffs include Paul Wopereis, Ronan Grew, and Rick Harding. Visitors such as Louise Shepherd and Dave Fearnley have added some hard lines. More recently Nick Craddock and friends have been adding more modern routes into the area. Charleston used to be a goldrush boomtown. In 1868 several thousand diggers were in residence, serviced by 60 hotels. It’s a little quieter now.

Accommodation

Please be responsible and clean campers and use the campground or motel. Camping at Constant Bay is no longer permitted.

Access: Charleston is 28km south of Westport and 77km north of Greymouth on State Highway 6. From downtown Charleston, turn towards the coast heading for Constant Bay Recreation Reserve. The popular southern areas, from Usher’s Rock to Boulder Bay, are approached from the Constant Bay carpark by walking south on a well-formed track for 10 minutes. The northern rocks may be approached from the cemetery via a rough track which leads to Cod Rocks and The Platform. Another track branching left off this after 200m leads to the popular Bolt City Boulders, and, by scrambling south along the coast, The Prow and Goat Cove. To find Tunnel Cove and Robertson's Cove, scramble around the rocks from the north of Joyce’s Bay and find a fisherman’s track leading to Point Robertson. Branching off this track up a gully to the right is a rough track leading to Tunnel Cove (and also Goat Cove). From there you can scramble south to reach Robertson's Cove.

Attribution: Information published here is based on the work of Rick Harding, itself based on earlier work by Paul Wopereis. By Murray Judge, hosted on a website by John Davis. Copied in by Grant Piper. Nick Craddock, for recent developments.

Charleston%20nth

In the gully leading down to the sea, on the north wall are three 5 metre cracks.

-
Easy day for a lady
Grade 16
5m
-
Liverpool Kiss
Grade 15
5m
-
Tiger
Grade 18
5m

Showing all routes 15 routes total

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Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 12 0 - 16
Cs1 0

Northern cliffs. approached from the cemetery via a rough track which leads to Cod Rocks and The Platform.

-
Get Your Fun Card Punched
Grade 20
15m
-
Creatures of the Deep
Grade 22

-
Dancing in the Dark
Grade 10

-
Grease
Grade 15

-
Armless fun
Grade 15

-
Pinch of Salt
Grade 13

-
Crank with a Yank
Grade 17

-
Armed forces
Grade 22

-
Boys in Blue
Grade 22

-
All Hands on Deck
Grade 16

-
Heave Ho
Grade 17

-
Jump for Joy
Grade 15

-
Windward Way
Grade 15
10m
-
Babes in Arms
Grade 17

-
Partners in Climb
Grade 10

Showing all routes 11 routes total

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Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Cs2

Four boulders not so affected by the swell

Access: approached from the cemetery via a rough track which leads to Cod Rocks and The Platform. Another track branching left off this after 200m leads to the popular Bolt City Boulders

-
I'm not the Messiah
Grade 20
2 Bolt

-
Pre-slung Territory
Grade 14

-
Protection by Halves
Grade 17

-
Walking on Glass
Grade 19
2 Bolt

-
1940
Grade 15

-
The Young Ones
Grade 14

-
Working Class Man
Grade 17

-
All Fingers and Thumbs
Grade 21

-
Crawling Kingsnake
Grade 19

-
French Disease
Grade 20
2 Bolt

-
The Flying Haggis
Grade 21

Showing all routes 21 routes total

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Trad - 21 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Cs3

Includes Orange Wall & Goat Gully

Access: approached from the cemetery via a rough track which leads to Cod Rocks and The Platform. Another track branching left off this after 200m leads to the popular Bolt City Boulders, and by scrambling south along the coast, The Prow and Goat Cove.

-
The First Step
Grade 13
5m
-
Better Late than Never
Grade 18
8m
-
Roc's Egg
Grade 16
10m
-
Dolphin Dreams
Grade 16
25m
-
Jump
Grade 17

-
Sinbad the Sailor
Grade 15

-
unnamed
Grade 17

-
Dog's Breakfast
Grade 16
9m
-
No Fool Like an Old Fool
Grade 19
9m
-
Safe Crack
Grade 14

-
Crack a Jack
Grade 14

-
Buried at Sea
Grade 13

-
Roaring Forties
Grade 13

-
Father and Son
Grade 17

-
The writing's on the Wall
Grade 16

-
I Hate Black Lingerie
Grade 17
6m
-
Flight to Australia
Grade 16
9m
-
Porpoise with a Purpose
Grade 14
7m
-
Groper
Grade 15
7m
-
Possums Progress
Grade 17

-
Not the Full Quid
Grade 15

Showing all routes 9 routes total

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Trad - 9 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21

Just around Pt Robertson, north of Joyce Bay

Access: To find Tunnel Cove and Robertson's Cove, you have 2 options. 1 from the north of Joyce's Bay scramble around the rocks and find a fisherman's track leading to Point Robertson. 2 Branching off this track up a gulley to the right is a rough track leading to Tunnel Cove (and also Goat Cove). From there you can scramble south to reach Robertson's Cove.

-
Keyboard
Grade 15

-
The Sun also Rises
Grade 19

-
The Flying Rat
Grade 15

-
Glider
Grade 15

-
Rest Homes
Grade 16

-
Too Easy
Grade 10

-
RNR
Grade 14

-
Jack the Gripper
Grade 15

-
Third Time Lucky
Grade 17

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 30min 0 m

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Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21 22 - 25
White%20wall2

This is a gem of south facing cliff, that is easily spotted form the DOC car-park as you look across the bay. It is the clean white wall at the end of the scrubby spur, (Point Robertson).

Access: Approach via rocks from Joyce's Bay. One section of exposed but easy scrambling leads to a good platform below the cliff. The exposed section can now be bypassed by fixed ropes in a track cut through flax over the bluff. Don't go if a more than moderate swell is running. All routes are approx 15m, have double ring anchors and some need gear (cams to #4). Excellent rock.

Attribution: Nick Craddock

-
White is not Right
Grade 18
Found on the broken wall on the left of the crag. Start with Trad and finish on bolts.
-
Brash Newcomer
Grade 17
3 Bolt
15m Found on the broken wall on the left of the crag. Engaging route that is better than it looks.
-
Get over it Boys
Grade 22
20m On the left of the main white cliff.
-
Rarking up Rick
Grade 23
6 Bolt
15m Shares the last bolt with GOBoys.
-
Direct Start
Grade 21
15m Pro + 2 bolts of Luddites Lament.
-
Luddite's Lament
Grade 18
15m Crack + 2 bolts to a shared anchor.
Trad - 44 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Cs4 0Publication1Usshers

The first area on the Southern Cliffs. The north side of Usher's rock are the Sun Slabs moving around to Here Comes The Sun Face. The Sea Breeze Face, faces west. Exercise caution with the sea conditions around here as high seas add a bit of excitement. The Wet Wall is the Wall with the Southerly aspect.

Access: Approach from Constant Bay, the track branches off left and follows down to Ushers Cove. Traverse around the wave cut platform. BEWARE OF ROUGH SEAS!

-
Dolphin Spotting
Grade 14
Jenny Brown '88
-
Dunked again
Grade 14

-
Sun Slab
Grade 12

-
Sink or Swim
Grade 14

-
Sun Slicker
Grade 11

-
Rock of Ages
Grade 11

-
Splash
Grade 13
6m
-
Cruisin'
Grade 8

-
Blame it on the Weather
Grade 16

-
Temper
Grade 16

-
The old Man and the Sea
Grade 16

-
Heatwave L
Grade 14

-
Heatwave R
Grade 13

-
Coal Dust
Grade 15

Bj
Badjelly
Grade 14
17m
FS
Flight of Stairs
Grade 10
16m
-
Don's Delight
Grade 16

-
Mad Dogs And
Grade 15
16m 1-1.5m in from LH edge of Sea Breeze Face, face climb trending right, tops out just to the left of Calypso
Co
Calypso
Grade 17
16m
-
Shades in Hades
Grade 18

Na
Nashira
Grade 16
16m
AA
Adam's Apple
Grade 13

-
Let Me Think
Grade 18

MD
Making Plans for Dave
Grade 15
16m
-
Meditations in Green
Grade 17

-
Call it What you Like
Grade 15

WP
White Punks on Chalk
Grade 20
17m
33
33 Brutes
Grade 24
17m
-
Goodbye Dubby
Grade 22
17m The faint crack line up the wall to the right of 33 Brutes. Steep bold start leads to good gear, and a long reach to a pocket.
RS
Reach for the Sky
Grade 16
17m
-
Soft Option
Grade 15

FO
Far Out and Solid
Grade 13
17m
BB
Blah Blah Blah
Grade 14
17m
-
Twilight
Grade 15

DL
A Day in the Life of a 20c Piece
Grade 12
17m
-
The Bat
Grade 15

-
Veg Gully
Grade 15

-
Lean To
Grade 21

-
Unbalanced Mind
Grade 21

-
Rip It Up
Grade 15

-
The Gauntlet
Grade 17

-
The Battler
Grade 14

-
Smack Jack
Grade 11

-
Jugs
Grade 15

Showing all routes 36 routes total Time 15min 0 m

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Trad - 36 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sea%20dreamer%20nthSunset%20wall

The Rib just south of Ushers Rock.

 Black slab   The inner N facing 15m wall has some easy routes.

 Sea Dreamer Wall The outer N facing wall.

 Sunset Wall     The South Facing Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Access: Use track to Ushers Cove, go left & down under or over large boulders. Rap off the top. Or approach via Cathedral Cove

-
Chock-a-Block
Grade 14

-
Heart Beat
Grade 16

-
Top Roper's Delight
Grade 15

SP
Stop Procrastinating
Grade 17
21m
-
Street Hassle
Grade 14

-
Black Chimney
Grade 11

-
Orange Country
Grade 8
Wide easy slab.
4A
Forth form Alley
Grade 9
17m
NF
Nelson Flying Club
Grade 17

TT
Trim, taut and Terrific
Grade 19

SS
Short Sharp and Shithot
Grade 21
14m
-
Frog's Lilypad
Grade 16
14m
HM
Hoop's Mistake
Grade 15
14m
SF
Sparrow Fart
Grade 16
14m
-
Eliminator
Grade 17
14m
Tg
Thinking
Grade 17
14m
-
A Farewell to Arms
Grade 19
14m
SU
Sweating Up
Grade 15
14m
AS
All Stars
Grade 15
14m
-
Mike's Climb
Grade 17
14m
SA
Sunset Arete
Grade 17
12m
-
Long John Silver
Grade 13
12m
CP
Cream Puff
Grade 18
12m
Cn
Combination
Grade 16
14m
SS
Still Steaming
Grade 17
14m
Kh
Keyhole
Grade 17
14m
AL
Aid in Line
Grade 10
14m
-
Red Shark
Grade 17
14m
AC
Atomic Chevrolet
Grade 17
14m
BC
Black Cadillac
Grade 16
14m
GG
Gully Gully Gully
Grade 10
14m
SH
Summer Holiday
Grade 13
12m
OM
Out of your mind
Grade 17
12m
-
Scramble country
Grade 11

-
Masterfeet
Grade 11

-
Cornology
Grade 8

Showing all routes 36 routes total Time 10min

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Trad - 35 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 21 17 - 21
Cs4 2

This is the area that contains most of the classic walls: Slammer, Cathedral & Wonder Walls. Also includes The Arches to complete your seaside adventure.

Access: Follow track from Constant Bay southwards. You will end up at above the wall. There is an access gully that drops down between Sunset Rib & Slammer Wall.

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 15 0 m

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Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 21 17 - 21
Slammer

Left hand (North) side of  Cathedral Rock.

Access: Has easy access gully down into Cathedral Cove, just south of Sunset Rib.

DS
Droite du Senior
Grade 21
4 Bolt
18m Far left. A little test piece for the aspiring polytechnic student leader which has seen some good plummets.
SS
Sweat and Sin
Grade 16
18m Short face to a chimney.
GG
Grunt Grip and Grasp
Grade 16
18m Chimney.
LL
Lonely on the Lead
Grade 17
20m A sustained R leaning crack.
BR
Bite the Rat
Grade 18
20m Start on LOTL, follow a low traverse and up L of the arete.
LC
Louise's Climb
Grade 24
22m Climb up on good holds to a thin crack, continue slightly R to the upper crack (crux) finishing on the R arete.
US
Up the Schrunds
Grade 23
22m Wide cracks just L of the arête.

Showing all routes 13 routes total Time 15min

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Trad - 13 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Wonder%20wall

Home of some of the Charleston Classics. Seaward facing (west) with tons of atmosphere. There are anchor bolts at the top of the cliff.

Access: Use access gully as for Slammer Wall, look around the corner to the left.

HD
Humpty Dumpty
Grade 19
30m From the ledge climb the overhang at the L end then R to a scoop and R again and up.
RD
Rolling Dice
Grade 13, 17
1. 14m Climb the crack up to the sloping ledge,
2. 20m from the top of the ledge traverse L to the arete.
TA
Think about It
Grade 18
30m A corner start to the ledge with a hard move.
RY
Rattle your Dags
Grade 18
30m Start in the L corner up to the shelf, move across R and up line of flakes, move a little L on flakes to pockets 3m L of the bolts. Climb up to birds nests and R to top.
DT
Dead Trousers
Grade 19
30m Climb straight up to the shelf, straight up to the bolt and straight up past it. The crux is well above the bolt – you would probably hit the shelf if you fell off.
WH
Wild Horses in the Sun
Grade 19
30m Climb the lower slab to a large block then a hand crack to the ledge. Follow finger cracks to Stinger Ledge, step well L and up yellow rock to a corner, up and L to another corner and a crack.
St
Stinger
Grade 17
30m Climb the slab to a ledge and the large corner above, just below the overhang step L to Stinger Ledge and follow the L slanting crack.
OT
Over The Top
Grade 18
30m Start up Stinger and climb through the overhang and up the face.
-
T.K.O.
Grade 17
12m Thin crack 4m L of the corner, up the slab.
HA
Hanging Around
Grade 18
30m To the top of the slab, then through the bulges L of RA.
RA
Robbery under Arms
Grade 17
30m Climb to the belay of RS, and take the crack and groove above.
CD
Crack of Delights
Grade 18
30m The thin crack on the upper wall R of RA.
RS
Racing in the Streets
Grade 16
30m The corner between Wonder Wall and Cathedral Wall, belay bolts at halfway.
Trad - 9 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Cath2

Impressive wall to the right of the prominent corner (Racing in the Streets). Some of the old school routes are committing, Lower half being ok but upper slabby section being runnout on slightly loose rock! The post-2008 routes require trad climbing to get to the bolted sections.

-
Rocks in the Head
Grade 18
30m
WK
Where's my Kitchen?
Grade 21
30m
FS
Flying Scorpion
Grade 22
30m
LS
Love Stain
Grade 21
25m A direct finish to Flying Scorpions. Straight up from the start of Shark's Breakfast on trad gear, even hex's will work, to 7 bolts and DBA
SL
Swallow My Love
Grade 19
30m
ST
Storm in a Teacup
Grade 20
30m The route that ushered in the modern era. And controversy. Access via Shark's Breakfast to the flake and then directly up the wall past 7 bolts to DBA.
SB
Shark's Breakfast
Grade 18
25m
SW
Salt with Everything
Grade 15
25m
Pt
Pulpit
Grade 17
17m

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 15min

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Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Cs8

Cathedral Rock - Sea Face

Access: Absiel from eye-bolts at top

-
Trepidation
Grade 16
12m
-
Carwash
Grade 17

-
Andy's Arete
Grade 20

-
Rising Damp
Grade 20

-
Deep Sea Diver
Grade 15

-
Flying Fish
Grade 15

-
Blockhead
Grade 18
10m

Showing all routes 28 routes total Time 15 0 m

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Trad - 27 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Cs9

The first Hidden Cleft, South of the Main Wall Area.

Apart from the Tintin Boulder this area is set up for modern climbing with 9 sets of rings as well as the original rap anchors. The best access is to rap in(from either above Warrior or Fool's Gold) and walk out under the jammed boulder then up and R using a fixed rope. The recent additions are described starting at the seaward end of the North Wall and progressing round the zawn in a clockwise direction to the seaward end of the South Wall.

 

 

 

Access: Approach by track from behind the top of Racing in the Streets. Push through flax to reach the top where you can either rap in from bolts on the true L of where the track meets the cove or walk around the inland edge of the cove and follow a track down and under a big chockstone to the base of the climbs.

-
Mojo Risin'
Grade 20

-
Patagonia
Grade 15
6m
-
Bottle Brush
Grade 10
6m

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 20min

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Trad - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Cs12

The bolted slab facing the sea

Access: Through European Cove access gully and past South Wall

A
Rastapopulus
Grade 20
3 Bolt
12m
B
Marlinspike
Grade 18
12m
C
Snowy
Grade 19
12m
D
Red Rackham's Treasure
Grade 19
12m
E
Thompson and Thompson
Grade 19
12m
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Euro%20south

The Wall with a few routes between the Access gully & Tintin Boulder

FG
Fools' Gold
Grade 19
23m
To
Tyro
Grade 18
Start up Mania for Anne then straight up wall past 2 bolts to DBA. Wires and cams to #3 for extra pro.
MA
Mania for Anne
Grade 14

GS
Get Stuck In
Grade 17

-
Stuck Up
Grade 19
Direct start to "Get Stuck in"
-
Over and Done With It
Grade 21
Climb "Do or Die" until holds lead on to the R wall. Fingery moves past 2 bolts.
DD
Do or Die
Grade 18

Tr
Trickster
Grade 20
Obvious off-width which is surprisingly aesthetic climbing.
Trad - 12 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
North%20euro

Has some great challanges, & 30-35m routes

Access: 1 use rap chais at top of The Way of the Lion. 2Access gully in from east under and over boulders

Dt
Disappointment
Grade 15
15m
G2
Go 2
Grade 15

-
Main Chance
Grade 18
Start up "Greased Lightning" and then break L onto the arete. Up this with 3 bolts and a cam. Fun moves at the top.
GL
Greased Lightning
Grade 17

-
Great White Shark Hunt Variant
Grade 20
32m Start as for any of Greased Lightning, Great White Shark Hunt or The Way of the Lion to DB belay(hangers only) then climb corner and wall on the R past 3 bolts to DBA. Nick Cradock
GS
Great White Shark Hunt
Grade 18
32m
-
The Way of the Pussycat
Grade 20
Start up "Way of the Lion" then go L and over the roof clipping 2 bolts.
WL
The Way of the Lion
Grade 18
32m Up the R side of the narrow sea-facing wall, move L and up to the overhang, traversing out R above to the arete and follow the groove on the slab to the belay bolts.
FG
Flowers on Your Grave
Grade 18
32m Start up WOTL and follow the R leaning groove beside the arete. Step through the overhang, up and L to the groove in the slab.
-
Prison Planet
Grade 23
28m Climb the obvious steep handcrack through the overhangs to a good rest below the bolt at the roof. Solve the slopey crux past the bolt and climb the slab above.
Wr
Warrior
Grade 17
26m The central crack up to the overhang, move R to a bolt, climb the groove to the block, bolt belay
-
Crack of Decay
Grade 16

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 25min

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Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 15 0 - 16 17 - 21
Cs13

The next bay south of European Cove

Access: Go to European Cove and climb around cove below Tintin Boulder.

-
Bad Language
Grade 16

-
Go 3
Grade 15

-
Old Dog
Grade 15

-
Anne's Delight
Grade 13

-
Fear of Flying
Grade 18

-
Mana
Grade 17

-
Young Men's Fancy
Grade 15

Showing all routes 2 routes total Time 40min

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Cs14

3 coves south of Boulder Bay.

Access: Use an overgrown track around the top of the crags.

-
Succeed or Seaweed
Grade 12

-
Orongorongo Orangutang
Grade 17

Showing all routes 6 routes total Time 20min 0 m

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Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 3 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25

S of European Cove.

Access: S of European Cove. Approach. After the last zig-zag on the track to Cathedral Wall etc look for a track on the L - pink tape. This track continues S along the cliff lines to come out at 4 Mile, on the main highway. Follow it past Euopean Cove to a branch heading R. About 10 minutes. Cairns mark the way to this cove. Below the last cairn lurks a low bolt which can be used to rap into the cove if the rocks below are greasy. Climbs are described Lto R. On the R side of the cove above the rocking rock is a double groove.

Attribution: John Entwisle & Mojozone

-
Mowing the Lawns
Grade 21
6 Bolt
Amazing what a young man will do for 6 bolts! Hard start leads to a struggle over a roof, then cruise to DBA.
-
Base Camp Mamma
Grade 18
Further round on the buttress. 4 bolts plus #3 cam to DBA,
-
Scrotty Arete
Grade 15
4 Bolt
12m On the arete to the L edge of the south facing wall, is the result of what happens when a committee puts up a climb. It serves as a warm up for the warm up
-
Re Dick Less
Grade 16
12m Follow the crack up to the main wall and a shared anchor.
-
Climb 1
Grade 18
12m Follow crack to the shared anchor.
-
When I'm 64
Grade 23
5 Bolt
On the south side of the cove is a double groove which leads to a crack through an overlap. 5 bolts to DBA. Awkward to start the first groove, then exit L from it to rest. Desperate to enter second groove. Excellent rock. On the S wall are 2 short gear routes to a shared DBA

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 25 min

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An immaculate W facing wall with a ledge and obvious crack at the top. All sports routes with DBA. Looking L to R (oppiste to approach)

Access: After 10/15 minutes walk from turn off from main track look for tracks and cairns to W. 5 minute easy descent into the cove. Well above the swell. Look for immaculate W facing wall with a ledge and obvious crack at the top. This is White Feather Buttress.

Attribution: John Entwisle & mojozone

-
Olive Branch
Grade 21
4 Bolt

-
White Feather
Grade 23
4 Bolt
conceived and bolted by Nick and then donated to John Entwisle
-
Yellow Belly
Grade 25
4 Bolt

-
Gaga's Bolted the Crack
Grade 19
4 Bolt
On the S side of the cove hanging over the sea is a striking off-width crack with a tempting steep wall on its R. Scramble carefully down to the jammed boulders at the foot of the crack and get a belay before starting:- Climb the wall to gain the crack, then layback or thrutch up this to anchor blocks with an easy walk off.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 25min 10 m

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Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Img 1281

The next cove S. Again above the swell. Routes are described L to R

Access: A green rope handrail leads into the cove .On NW facing buttress.

-
Floppy
Grade 16
18m Steeper than it looks.
CT
Choo on This
Grade 19
Up diagonal trad crack to bolted L arete. DBA to enable a lower off to 2 bolt belay.
HG
Hi Glen
Grade 18
Sport route up the stunning RH arete to DBA. Can be done as extened single pitch from Choo on This. Requires a couple of extended draws.
GC
Change of Guard
Grade 17
25m Obvious cracked trad face to DBA
-
Over the Schrund
Grade 21
5 Bolt
12m

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 45 min

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Trad - 6 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 17 17 - 21

A photogenic spot which saw the demise of John's camera when it fell into a pool of seawater. Near where the descent rope finishes is a black and gold wall well supplied with holds. The climbs are described left to right as you face the crag (and south). All have double bolt anchors.

Access: Camera Cove is about 45 minutes walk from the car park but has enough routes to be worth the effort. Once past the gate and all of the warnings, follow the main track to the cut trail which branches left just before the main cliffs. Follow this trail over a double col marked by rimu trees and then wind back towards the coast until a few stunted pines appear. If you arrive at a major stream (Bromielaw Creek) you have gone about 50m too far. There is a track to the right, cut through gorse and flax, which comes to a fixed rope. Either swarm down this or abseil from a bolt on a rock prow about 20m on from the rope. Up the knotted rope is your way out.

Attribution: John Entwisle

-
Bananas in Pyjamas
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Start up slanting crack or pull onto the wall from the low block. Pro is possible before the first bolt then good holds to near the top.
-
Disdain Corner
Grade 17
Off-width to undercut layback crack.
-
Cradock Corner
Grade 17
Stepped corner capped by a small roof with a balancy finish.
-
Trust Me I'm a Rat
Grade 21
Cracked wall just R of CC. A cam and small wires protect committing moves to a bolt or stick clip it, then cams to 4 bolts through the roof to a tricky finish to CC DBA.
-
Spume
Grade 19
Designer 'and jams to exposed finish.
-
Old Fart's Fun
Grade 17
Obvious gully feature with a chimney on the L and an off-width on the R. Bridge around the chimney using a thin crack on the L wall for pro. At the ledge climb the R hand stemming corner so avoiding potentially loose blocks on the L, then up the wall with 2 bolts.
-
Becalmed
Grade 15
Aesthetic seaside arete.

Showing all routes 20 routes total Time 1 hour 3 m

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Trad - 18 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 2 routes - avg. grade 25 0 - 16 26+
Deepcreek

The area of crags south of Deep Creek...

Access: From the main track to cathedral cove take the 'locals' trail which branches left off the main trail just before reaching the main climbing area. You will need to follow this for about 45 mins so try not to get distracted by the abundance of rock on the way... cross Bromlielaw Creek passing two large old man pines. About 5mins after these trees is another lone old man pine tree, this marks the turn off, you will find a wee trail heading off into the bush under the tree which takes you down to the coast. Cross Deep Creek after you pop out and head into the harakeke maze where you will find a network of seal trails - be on seal alert from here on in - Only trial and error will get you through to the other side where you will be able to see the north side of Aspire. Boulder hop your way around the mainland side of the pinnacle to gain the crags further south. Take care and enjoy :)

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 1 hour 5 m

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Pa250623 edit

The obvious pinnacle. There is a rap station located on top of the south side.

Access: The first crag after popping out of the harakeke maze.

1
Unamed
Grade 19
20m Follow the major corner system to the top.
2
Unnamed
Grade 22
20m The bolted overhang to hanging corner.
B
Babel
Grade 21
15m Start upon the large chock stone to gain corner. head left towards arete then follow your nose to the top to join route #2
Imageedit 3 7402109991

The triangle slab pointing up with lots of cracks running through it. No anchors at the top so use a sling/cordalette to loop over the top. Once finished climb up the back to retrieve.

Access: Just behind the Aspire Wall

S&G
Shits and Giggles
Grade 15
Wander up and left through flakes then continue up the aerate. Good gear but slightly spread.
PS
Pin Scar Project
Grade 22
Quite a serious undertaking. Smear your way up the smooth slab with no gear for the majority of the route. Good gear at the top to look forward to.
Proj
Arete Project
Grade 22
18m Start down in the gulley to the right of the slab. Not much gear for the first half. Two huge bits in the middle then none for the top. Traversing to the ground on the left at half height is treason and will not be tolerated.
-
James's Climb
Grade 15

Showing all routes 8 routes total Time 1 hour 5 mins 10 m

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Trad - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Sports - 1 route - avg. grade 34 26+
 mg 1167 editPa250621 editPa250542 edit 1Pa110444 edit

The main wall past aspire with the large overhang in its centre.

Access: Boulder hop your way past aspire, the left hand end of the wall is well clear of the tide. Take care when hanging out underneath the 'swirly whirly' in a big swell/tide.

BP
Ballast Point
Grade 23
30m Start up the layback crack to the left of Seals Breakfast, passing the main overhang using the hand crack (gear). Pull over the lip to gain the face (bolts), place a pice before tackling the final head wall.
SB
Seals Breakfast
Grade 21

-
Open Project
Grade 34
6 Bolt
The wicked dihedral feature on the right hand side of the central overhang. Dynamic climbing is required to gain the hanging corner above.
D-N
De Nile
Grade 18, 20
1. 12m Climb the front side of the pillar to gain belay ledge.
2. 18m Start up face above ledge then weave your way around the right side of the over hang then avoid the off width by taking the left v groove. Traverse right to anchor. Best climb with extenders or double ropes.
M
Maelstrom
Grade 27
30m Steep pumpy climbing up through the swirls on good gear.
MI
Mussel Inn
Grade 17
18m An improbable looking line with good gear.
BB
Blistering Barnacle
Grade 16
18m The main crack line on the right hand side. Good gear. Named after the first ascensionist suffered a laceration to the forearm after dislodging a plasma screen sized rock.
JG
Jacks Gastof
Grade 22
The steep line around the corner. Shares the anchor of Mussel Inn. Best climbed in the afternoon and with a low tide.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 1.25 Hours 20 m

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Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Pa110443 edit

An amazing cliff which is home to some amazing rock and also some sleepy seals.

Access: Next cliff along from Wave Wall. Boulder hop along the coast until you are directly below the cliff and wonder look for the unlikely narrow entrance. Access is dependant on a 10m tidal section so time your approach wisely, also be weary of lurking seals hiding in the rocks.

S
Selkie
Grade 16, 22
1. Amble up obvious corner to single bolt belay on ledge (backed up by a gear)
2. Follow the arching roof cracks to the lip and giant flake and anchors. Good gear. Lower to anchors of Omarama Beach then rap to group from there.
KfaR
Kiss from a Rose
Grade 25

Ba
Beeched as
Grade 18, 20
1. Start as for Omarama Beach but when ledge is gained veer right to stiff rock over and slab. Double bolt belay.
2. From belay step right onto ledge to gain holds that lead you up onto the arete thing and mantleish finish. Double bolt belay to the right.
OB
Omarama Beach
Grade 18

MeS
Man eating Seals
Grade 19
12m From the bolted anchor ledge. Start up the wide crack which forms into a flake for which to place gear in. A few cranky moves on edges which is protected by a bolt. Then up and left to the arete/Flake to clip the anchors.

Showing all routes 88 routes total

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Sports - 69 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 19 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Bullock%20creek2AboretumBullock1 0Bullock2Paraintro 1

Welcome to climbing in the Paparoas, including the 'world famous' Bullock Creek and the Punakaiki River Valley. This isn't your average sport climbing destination, but it has something for everyone. North-facing limestone crags that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. History Development of the area began with a visit from Robin Hood back in 1985-86 when Robin and a mate put up two climbs at Hanging Gardens (Dogs in Space and a project which later became The Great Gatsby). This was the very first stage of Bullock Creek development and it ended when the river flooded and Robin was forced to swim to the wall to recover his gear. Next came a group of Greymouth climbers led by Bruce Dowrick in 1999 who put up a selection of climbs at Hanging Gardens before having a disagreement with DOC over the unsightliness of a static rope. The disagreement halted development until 2008, when Jack Grinsted fired the cannon and called in some legendary Kiwi climbers including Lindsay Main, Joe Arts and Neil Silverwood who also saw the potential shimmering in the cliff now known as the Arboretum. Over the next few years Jack and various merry men returned to put up new lines in both Bullock Creek and the Punakaiki River Valley. The winter of 2014 saw a heap of development from Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington who put up nearly two dozen new pitches. As of January 2015 Bullock Creek has undergone its biggest development phase to date with funding graciously provided by a Sport New Zealand Hillary Expedition Grant. The team received funding to put up 30 new routes in 30 days at the newly found Paradise Crag and its outlying walls, with the help of many visiting friends. Bullock Creek lies within the Paparoa National Park. Route Developers and Climbers should take care to preserve and protect the the conservation and cultural values of the area. Specific care should be taken not to disturb Gossamer Grass (Anamenthale lessonia) a 'Nationally Vulnerable' species. Also note that bivy caves may be considered culturally sensitive by Ngati Wae Wae. During the past few months there has been confusion and argument over whether bolting climbs at Bullock Creek is acceptable to the Department of Conservation. This issue is now over, with DOC and NZAC in agreement that the Bullock Creek area is suitable for the development of bolted climbs. The forthcoming management plan for Paparoa National Park will reflect this.

Access: About 2km north of Punakaiki, turn right (east) up Bullock Creek Road. The climbing is on the opposite side of the creek bed from the road. Information also available in http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Showing all routes 16 routes total Time 3min 100 m

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Sports - 13 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
 mg 8074 edit 0

North Facing limestone Crags, that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. The first three climbs are located exactly 150 paces upriver from the main crag (Hanging Gardens). Lost in Time and Love From Me are on a face directly behind a small patch of grass 20m from the sandy riverbed. The Crack of Beyond is tucked up at the gully to the right of this.

Access: The Hanging Gardens is the last major cliff band on the right hand side of the valley when driving up the road, 5.3km up the Bullock Creek Road. There is a small pull over by a single tree where you can see the crag clearly from the road. Vague trail crosses small creek and grassy meadow. If raining hard keep an eye on the creek.

Attribution: Lindsay Main & Jason Blair. Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
Lost in Time
Grade 22
7 Bolt
18m Start left of the small prow, bust through some dusty scoops to some entertaining moves on the face above.
-
Love From Me
Grade 19
7 Bolt
18m Not hard to tell this route was put up by a skier-cum-climber. A slalom course of a line. Starts right of the prow and deke left to share the 3rd bolt of Lost in Time before carving back through the big scoops to finish up the vague arête.
-
Crack of Beyond
Grade 16
This route is well hidden about 50 metres upstream on a small crag tucked up in the bush. A perfect, aesthetic handcrack on yellow rock, with its own protecting overhang above.
-
Crème Brulee
Grade 12, 22
1. This route is on the left of the crag and starts above a scrubby bank with a cut-off fixed rope. Climb from the tree to the cut fixed rope (good cams) to gain the vegetated ledge directly under the arête. Anchor to tree and root.
2. Climb steep white rock to the left and then move right to gain the arête, and continue to the chains. Sustained.
-
Champing at the bit
Grade 14
17m 50m up stream of IoI on river bank beneath the deserted bee hive. Follow a series of cracks then step right to chimney thing and anchor above.
IoI
Illusions of Inadequacy
Grade 19
On the main part of the crag, starting directly from the usually dry riverbed. Starting on the left of the wall against the trees, follow a vague crack rightward to a stance and overhang, and pull up on good holds on the left. Pass the thread (previously the anchor) at 15 metres and continue to the ring anchors below the overhang. Since recent retro-bolting, this climb has about five bolts. Dean Arthur, 1999.
HA&V
Heart Attack & Vine
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Second pitch of Illusions of Inadequacy. Move up through the overhang to belay station. Best climbed as one 25m pitch from the ground. The third pitch to the overlap and beyond is unclimbed.
SP
Seemingly Psychedelic
Grade 24
13 Bolt
29m Best climbed as one 29m pitch from the ground. Climb Illusions of Inadequacy to last bolt then veer right wards to ledge then through the small roof, then its steep slab climbing on excellent rock all the way to the anchor. You can be lowered to the ground on a 60m rope but when cleaning best lower to anchor of IoI and re-thread.
KD
Knee Deep
Grade 20
6 Bolt
18m 3m right of IoL. Start left of bush to gain crack, up over bulge then up slab to a good stance below large flake, around this to a mantle finish.
Opp
Opportunivore
Grade 18
This route is based on the crack. Start as for Bush Chick and move left after clipping its first bolt and gain the crack, followed by a crux move to the groove. Follow the crack and move right to the chains. Originally quite committing on gear, but now protected with bolts.
BC
Bush Chick
Grade 17
6 Bolt
Very nice climbing through the left of the overhang, clipping about six bolts.
WtWW
Where The Weka Was
Grade 21
Hard crimpy moves to reach a high first bolt (a lower one may be added) to protect the moves through the small overlap, then easier to the overhang. Pull through heading right, and back left to the chains.
OMW
Organic Migraine
Grade 0
2 Bolt
8m RH side of crag, a neat little route that climbs up to the rata root... (still needs an anchor - single bolt lower off atm)
-
Nicotine Rampage
Grade 21
3m left of DiS
DiS
Dogs in Space
Grade 18
6 Bolt
Right hand side of the crag, up on the terrace above river. A bouldery face leads you up to the crack and easier climbing. Total classic.
tGG
The Great Gatsby
Grade 21
10 Bolt
20m Somewhat of a romantic drama. Start up Dogs in Space, at 3rd bolt step right and head up to chain draw then step right again on good holds to gain to the classy arete (crux) and then up arete to anchor. When cleaning best to redirect off the chain draw to avoid swinging into bush.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 10 min 100 m

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The%20forum%20topo%2c%20900%20

The Forum is the narrow wall just upstream of the Arboretum, about 400 metres downstream from the Hanging Garden. Though not as sheltered as other crags, it may remain dry in a light southerly. Pitches are 25 to 30 metres long, with the wall gaining extra exposure credits from the traversing approach to the first belay station at the 30 metre level.

Access: The first crag you reach from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver until you reach a flagged trail signposted "Forum" leading off to the left after about 100m after entering the riverbed (if you arrive at the log jam you've gone too far). Take the vague trail up to the left through the bush to a fixed traverse line 1/2 way up the cliff. Traverse out to a belay station, the three climbs start from here.

Attribution: Lindsay Main

1
Francis' route
Grade 23
8 Bolt
25m Directly above the anchor. Shares the first two bolts of Absent Friends before moving slightly left to steep crimpy wall (crux), followed by easier climbing on a slab. Continue up an exposed arête to finish on slopey holds.
2
Absent Friends
Grade 18
9 Bolt
25m From the second bolt continue up on good holds slightly rightward and then a little left on a slab. A white area in a corner leads to the first bulge (crux), with tricky moves to high holds. Bolted by Simon Courtois.
3
Double Trouble
Grade 20, 19
17 Bolt
1. 28m 20, 28m. From the first bolt move right (the second bolt can be clipped with a sling) and follow the bolts diagonally to a shallow groove, where the climbing steepens. Up to the right of a small tree on small holds to a dirty crack; then bridge up under the bulge, step left and balance through the bulge heading left on slopers (crux) to the station.
2. 25m 19, 25m. Step out right to clip the first bolt and move cautiously up to the vegetated ledge. Muscle up through the overhangs and balance on to the ledge; then follow the bolts through a couple of shallow scoops to the final moves up the white streak.

Showing all routes 25 routes total Time 10 min 100 m

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Sports - 17 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 8 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21
AboretAbore

North-facing limestone crags that are generally weather proof. There are quite a few good climbs here at various grades, and a lot more climbing to be developed. The Arboretum comprises a set of crags about 60–80 metres high. Much of the rock is un-featured and routes tend to follow the large cracks which break up the cliff. Characteristically the heart of Bullock Creek, in its Jurassic like setting, and its diverse climbing on rock that varies from solid-as to choss pile as you climb through the different layers of limestone. It offers up a handful of moderate multi-pitch adventures as well as some thought provoking trad lines. The Arboretum is also home to the notorious Gumboot Ledge, which has been described by one unnamed individual as "the best climbing at Bullock Creek!" and another as "it's as loose and dirty as the route developers." I'm leaning towards the latter, although Arc of a Diver and Plan B are both classic in their own right

Access: : Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver past the Forum to a trail marked "A1" on a sign hanging in a tree (just before the log jam). This track will take you to Arboretum (left) which includes While You See a Chance and Nevermind the Bullocks, both of these climbs will give you access to the climbs on Gumboot Ledge. For the climbs at Arboretum (right) continue down the riverbed, through the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. 50m further when you reach a junction, turn left on the trail marked "A2". Take the rock stairs uphill. Squeeze past a tree and you will have reached the wall. The mellow left facing corner crack in front of you is Crackerjack.

Attribution: Lindsay Main & Jason Blair. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Showing all routes 4 routes total Time 10 min 150 m

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Aborlh

The ledge on the left side of the Arboretum, halfway up.

Access: Accessed by climbing either While You See A Chance or Never Mind the Bullocks.

Attribution: Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

3
Arc Of A Diver
Grade 16, 19, 20
16 Bolt
1. 18m From the dusty chimney step on to the right wall and gain the arête. Continue on large, solid holds (big space between bolts) and through the juggy overhang. On up the increasingly exposed arête to a crux just before the move right to a two-ring anchor.
2. 15m Easily up to the narrow point on the arête and move right where it steepens. Negotiate loose rock at the right and move left (crux) to a rest. Easily up the jugs to a chain station at the ledge with a small tree.
3. 8m Awkwardly gain the right-leading ramp and climb past three bolts. Then climb the face delicately to the chain anchor (crux).
4
Up To The Neck
Grade 18
18m Naturally-protected route starting at the corner/crack just right of a two-ring station. Starts on black rock with good holds. From a bolt traverse right four metres to an anchor station.
5
Blistering Banacles
Grade 17, 17
1. 18m Start at a high anchor station on the right side of Gumboot Ledge, climb through the overhang on solid white rock to a ledge; then after two bolts move left and climb the right-facing corner and crack to a chain station.
2. 15m This pitch was led on natural gear and down-climbed. Follow the crack through appallingly loose black rock with crux moves bridging into a small cave. Large gear for pro.
6
Plan B
Grade 19
11 Bolt
30m Can be combined with Never Mind The Bullocks for a 70 metre, 3 pitch route. Start as for Blistering Barnacles, but continue straight up the crack which steepens steadily. Move through the overhangs to rests; then climb the upper slopey section to the tree and a chain anchor
1
While You See A Chance
Grade 15, 18
11 Bolt
1. 15m Starts on the very left of the crag just after the track first meets the rock, following a wide crack. Climb the sloping slab on the right with bridging left across to the arête before engaging the crack. Steep moves past the third bolt to belly-flop on to the vegetated ledge, followed by a repeat performance to gain the belay station.
2. 22m Climb the unprotected crack to the first bolt (could be easier when it cleans up a bit); then up the wide crack with bolts on the right arête. At the ledge move right and climb the face and through a small overlap (crux) to gain a crack. Above the ledge large jugs on the right lead up to a steep finish under the tree on Gumboot Ledge.
2
Never Mind The Bullocks
Grade 20, 18
16 Bolt
1. 25m Starts at a wide crack and corner, with bolts on the left arête. Chimneying, bridging, lay-backing, jamming … all the traditional techniques. Above the chimney is a steep crux, followed tricky jamming to a spacious belay ledge. Unfortunately this pitch is very dirty.
2. 12m Excellent pitch with classic finger crack and jamming. Move right 2-3 metres to another corner and climb the crack to a station on the right, just below Gumboot Ledge.
7
Black Sheep
Grade 18, 19
12 Bolt
1. 25m 8m left of Blunt Arete. This distinctive crack is protected by seven bolts. Can also be done on gear now the crack has been cleaned.
2. 15m Climb right and up through a juggy roof. Short but stellar pitch. Descend from the eerie belay station.
8
Blunt Arete
Grade 19
8 Bolt
20m Clip the first two bolts of Rock Ahoy then wander leftwards up the vague arete.
9
Rock Ahoy
Grade 18
6 Bolt
20m A wide crack 5m right of Black Sheep. A boldery start leads to easy climbing then harder moves above. Fairly well protected but still feels a little wild.
10
Fresh Bananas
Grade 19
The Crack 3 metres right of Rock Ahoy. Bomber gear up to the ledge then place your last piece and pull through some jugs to a DBA
11
Slanted and Enchanted
Grade 18
18m Follows the large pillar directly left of Nomad. Place gear in the crack to the left. The upper, more difficult section is protected by four bolts. Finish at the Nomad DBA.
12
Nomad
Grade 19
On the left of the wall against the vegetation is this handsome hand crack. Good climbing, with bridging and jamming. Climb to a steep crack (crux) then follow the right crack. Step left to a DBA.
13
Short Story Long
Grade 21
7 Bolt
20m Start in the small left-facing corner between 'With Friends like these' and 'Nomad'. Delicate face climbing
14
With Friends Like These
Grade 18, 19, 19
20 Bolt
1. 15m Scramble on to a block and step on to the slab, tending leftward. Delicate moves past the third bolt (crux), then up the faint corner with a move on the right wall to gain the limited stance with ring anchors.
2. 12m Continue up an intermittent crack with bridging and some nice fist jams to a steepening but juggy top. Move right to the double ring station in the corner.
3. 20m Climb up & left of the belay through steep rock to easier ground. Pull through two more small overhangs before finishing at a magical & mystical belay.
15
Crackerjack
Grade 13
Obvious easy crack climb with good gear in the corner, finishing at the same belay station as Neil’s other pitch.

Showing all routes 10 routes total Time 15 min 100 m

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Sports - 8 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
2towers

Originally classified as part of the Arboretum, the Two Towers now stand alone offering some unique climbing to those that venture to the unmistakable cliff. Home to a handful of Bullock Creek's easiest climbs, it's a great first stop to test out the rock if you're new to the area. However, the cracks on the wall have a tendency to be a little dirty due to a dusty ledge above. Don't let this put you off. Just dust of the holds, crack a smile and get a feel for what it is like to climb on a stack of pancakes.

Access: Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". 50m down this trail is a 12m high perfect hand crack, this is 'The Ruairi McAree'. Turning back upriver at this point underneath the cliffs will lead you to Rumble in the Jungle, More Bang For Your Buck and Every Dog Has His Day. Alternatively, access the Karearea Shelf (and the rest of the Two Towers routes) via The Ruairi McAree or by continuing along the trail (downriver) beneath the cliffs to a massive windfall area. Scramble uphill over a stump and back left through a slot between some boulders onto the shelf.

Attribution: Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Rumble In The Jungle
Grade 16, 16
9 Bolt
1. 25m Lay back on slab then up left through a roof and traverse hard left round the corner at the forth bolt to a DBA.
2. Enjoyable climbing up the corner to an exposed finish.
2
More Bang For Your Buck
Grade 17
9 Bolt
30m Starts 5m left of the direct start to Every Dog Has His Day. Layback the slab and head up through a featured roof to gain the wall above. Great climb with lots of variety!
3
Every Dog Has His Day
Grade 20
9 Bolt
25m Starts at the hard left side of the Two Towers. Clip the First bolt of Go You Good Thing and traverse left. Clip the second and third bolts and through some delicate moves to gain the scoop. Climb through a short overhang to gain the main face and finally the top slab. Sustained. There is also a direct start from the ground below the grassy ledge.
4
The Ruairi McAree
Grade 15
12m Start from the tree root and climb the scruffy left hand cam-eating corner up to the start of "slow jazz." An alternative method for getting to the Karearea shelf. Descend via the trail to the right
5
Go You Good Thing Go
Grade 15
6 Bolt
20m Low bolt for the belayer. Bridge up a featured chimney, past 5 bolts then climb to the left of the 6th bolt (crux) and up to the DBA (Cleaned and a bolt added 2014).
6
Slow Jazz
Grade 17
10 Bolt Trad
30m Slow Jazz. Fun climbing in the corner and on the arete, finishing at DBA left of the roof. One or two large wires at the bottom. I will proably bolt this at some stage in keeping with the surrounding bolted cracks. Best bring belayer up to Slow Jazz DBA before traversing to ISGM as the traverse is a bit loose.
7
I Support Gay Marriage
Grade 20
10 Bolt
30m Spectacular route up hanging pillar and through overhanging buttress. Access via short bolted traverse from the top anchor of Slow Jazz.
8
My Empire Of Dirt
Grade 16
6 Bolt
20m A large crack with a roof that divides the wall. Tends to rain dirt from the ledge above. Originally climbed on gear, but now fully bolted.
9
Ohu, Karearea
Grade 18, 22, 19
20 Bolt
1. 25m Start up the crack or the yellow face to the right and climb the crack, moving right at the horizontal break. Up the slab and headwall to gain the vegetated ledge. Finish up the steep short wall to the next ledge and ring anchors.
2. 25m Climb slightly to the right then back left to gain the flowstone, then swing up on to the wall. Up on small holds to an easier section trending right. Then up and left through the overhang to exit to the ledge and anchor chain.
3. 15m Start at the right edge of the ledge and climb the wall to meet the arête five metres up (great holds). Gain the slab to the right and balance up to the runnel. Bridge up to a very thought-provoking move to the anchor.
10
Unfinished Business
Grade 17, 25
13 Bolt
1. 25m Start from a tree at the top of a greasy slope, following the obvious crack initially and through a steeper section to a station below the roof and slightly to the left.
2. 25m Pull through the roof (crux) with long moves and climb the upper wall to meet the finish of pitch 2 (and crux section) of Ohu, Karearea.

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 20 mins 100 m

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Sports - 4 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21
Trad - 1 route - avg. grade 20 17 - 21
Coloseum

Aptly named, the Colosseum is the gargantuan rock face that looms over the flax field as you drive up the road. Aside from immaculate rock, the crag also provides an awesome bivy site complete with its own reliable spring if you're looking to spend a few days up the creek. Full of potential, but with relatively few routes, The Colosseum is the mid-20's developers dream.

Access: Follow the track from the Arboretum parking (gravel pullout 4.7km from SH6 with a rock cairn). Follow the vague track through long grass and "the mangroves" to the sandy (and hopefully dry) riverbed. Walk downriver for several hundred metres past the ever-changing mess of logs where a sign stating "Fun Climbing" hung between two trees indicates the start of a marked track. When you reach a junction, turn right for the trail marked "2 Towers & Colosseum". The trail splits again 100m further on, take the right fork (signposted "Colosseum") and follow this marked trail for 10 minutes along the base of the cliff until you reach a small bivy site. The climbs start 50m right of here.

Attribution: Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Partial Project
Grade 0
23 Bolt
Equipped by Lindsay Main
2
Nelly's Nut
Grade 21, 21
12 Bolt
1. 20m Up through a steep featured roof to a a arete above. Finish at the HBAT DBA. Terrific route on good rock.
2. 15m Easy climbing up and left of the belay leads to a tricky finish in a thin crack.
3
Hanging by a Thread
Grade 18
7 Bolt
20m After a bouldery start head slightly right. Delicate moves through the crux on small holds gives way to easier climbing above. Quality rock.
4
How's Your French
Grade 19, 18, 23
27 Bolt
1. 15m Starts to the right of the large vine. Climb the steep but short wall and traverse left, scamble up an easy unprotected corner. Step right to clip the 2nd bolt. Climb up past 2 more bolts and traverse right to a DBA.
2. 30m A long and varied pitch. Finish at a vegetated ledge and traverse right to a DBA. Classic Bullock Creek Climbing!
3. 30m Easy ground to a steep, overhanging Arete and lower angled but difficult climbing above.
5
Pretty Little Hate Machine
Grade 20
28m This route is etched with history, a true love/hate relationship whose essence oozes from the pores in the rock as you climb. Far right side of Colosseum, has 3 bolts to get you started and save your mid/large cams for the funky upper section.

Showing all routes 7 routes total 100 m

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Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 0 - 16 17 - 21
Believe2 0Believe

Believe Crag routes make good use of a band of limestone that has clean, hard characteristics with excellent friction. Move past trees and low grade rock to find exposed climbing on excellent rock. Just Believe.

Access: The car park to the Believe Crag is found about 3.4km up the road at a corner 100m before the "Public Notice - if water is across the road do not continue" sign, which marks the start of the big wetland. Walk 50m back along the road to find the start of the track. A natural rock bridge allows an easy crossing of Bullock Creek in low to moderate flow. However, crossing the creek here in high flows could be problematic. The track steadily steepens up to the base of the cliff.

Attribution: From the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa

1
Believe
Grade 18
13 Bolt Trad
31m Believe starts up an obvious corner with a small tree growing out of it. Cam placements are available before the bolts start. There are two sets of abseil rings. One on the main vegetated ledge, and the other on the ledge below. It is 30m from the lower set of rings to the ground.
2
Porcelain
Grade 23
14 Bolt
27m Clean, featured climbing with delicate, sculptured holds. Enjoy interesting face climbing with thought provoking moves and some unbelievable porcelain limestone features. Climb a the pillar up to a small roof and crank up the overhanging headwall.
3
One For the People
Grade 21
7 Bolt
18m From the top of Believe climb the clean corner then step left onto an arête. Pull through the bulge and delicately climb up and right to the anchor shared with Pitons of Faith.
4
Pitons Of Faith
Grade 17
8 Bolt
This short pitch was originally led with a few dodgy pitons for pro. The shiny stainless bolts now provide more than adequate protection.
5
Fly Like a Phoenix
Grade 19
5 Bolt
18m From the top of Pitons of Faith enjoy a jug haul up to the lip of the roof. Pull through and run it out to the ledge at the top. Some threads are available for nervous climbers.
6
The Clean Dirt Path
Grade 16
This crumbling corner was used for the initial access to the top of the crag. Not recommended.
7
Piss Weak
Grade 18
7 Bolt
30m Belay on the highest part of the main ledge. Climb right initially and continue up the blunt arête, finishing just above the bush.
Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 5 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro 0Paradisel

Large area of low angle rock, around 30m high. The story behind Paradise: In mid 2014 Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington applied for funding from Sport NZ. Every second year grants are given out to New Zealanders doing innovative adventures around the globe. Perhaps due to a serious lack of applications Sport NZ awarded the pair a grant for route development at Bullock Creek. Warrington and Silverwood had promised to put up 30 routes in 30 days, complete a guide book, and name their first born 'Sport NZ'. Paradise Bivy was used as advanced base camp and almost all the routes at this crag were created during January 2015. Exhaustion, rain and frustration with living in the dirt slowed progress to a crawl and by half way through the month they only had 10 climbs completed. A post on social media promising free bolts, food and a can of double brown brought in reinforcements in the form of a few more keen route developers. On day 29 of the trip the 30th climb went up. The final tally for the month was 33 new climbs (37 pitches).

Access: Park at 1.9km down Bullock Creek Road from SH6 on one of the several grassy parking spots on the right-hand side. Walk 60m further along the road from the last parking spot looking for a marked track leading down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow the trail uphill for 20 minutes before turning upriver underneath the cliffs. Access to the Cuckoo's Nest, is by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline. Follow the goat trail along, dipping back into the bush occasionally to a spacious bivy cave. The Climbs from " Little Timmy the Guzzberry" to " Just Another Day" are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paraintro

To the left or up stream from the Main Paradise Wall (Left Wall)

Access: Follow the marked trail beyond the bivy along the base of the cliff for 5 minutes until you duck under a large tree to arrive at the base of High Contrast.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
High Contrast
Grade 21
7 Bolt
24m Like driving a motorbike over Arthur's Pass: lots of cruising with some scary bits in between. Starts on the little podium on the very left of the wall and remember to ignore TomTom's bolts just to the right and continue straight up to a desperate finish.
-
TomTom
Grade 21
10 Bolt
29m Someone forgot to tell these boys they're not in The Cave anymore. A fine link up nonetheless encompassing the more exciting parts of both routes. Starts up the first 3 bolts of The Irony then meanders left to finish up High Contrast.
-
The Irony
Grade 20
10 Bolt
28m Climb the clean crème brûlée through some reachy moves to the crack where the climbing mellows. For extra fun stay on the pillar right of the crack. Extending the last runner will help with rope drag if top roping.
-
Room With a View
Grade 21
11 Bolt
28m Friendly-as for those looking to push their White Wall experience. Use the first 2 bolts of The Irony (sling the 2nd) before heading off right for some absolutely elegant climbing. Join back up with Irony after pulling over the last bulge.
-
House of Cards
Grade 19, 18
12 Bolt
1. 15m The handholds don't get much better than is … good thing because it's pretty rumpy pumpy
2. 15m The climbing mellows, but the fun doesn't. Weave your way up the line of bolts to a hidden belay on a small ledge to the right.
-
Thirty One.
Grade 17, 18
17 Bolt
1. 10m Short little pitch to get the ball rolling, climb up the flowstone and veer off left to the belay on a small ledge
2. 30m The meat and potatoes pitch, you probably won't have room for dessert after this one, follow the line of bolts consciously trying to avoid bridging on the loose looking rock behind you as much as possible.
-
Don't Tell Mum
Grade 22
5 Bolt
13m Nice little boulder problem. Starts up a slab that turns into an overhanging pillar at half height. Well worth a stop for a few minutes to sort out the sequence on the upper part of the route.
Sports - 6 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 22 17 - 21 22 - 25
Paradiser

The wall to the right side of the main crag and bivy.

Access: All of the following climbs between the campsite bivy and the next sandy overhang to the right are accessed via the grass slope from the right. The climbs between PB & Blimp Redemption all start up PB, the wide crack just left of the sandy overhang.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Smigglepuss
Grade 19
21m Hidden up in the trees just after jumping over the small ditch. Start off the tree and jump into the crack (literally if you wish) and work your way up this thrutchy line and smiggle your way into the slightly overhanging off-width section protected by 2 bolts. Gear to #3 Camalot.
2
Specist
Grade 25
26m Climb Smigglepuss to the ledge, whacking in a bunch of dirty ol' cams then put on your sport booties and dance out onto the right face. Techy and crimpy with a dramatic finish.Troy gives it 8 out of 3 stars and says 'soft 25' which translates to a pretty good grade 26 for the rest of us. Only needs a handful of cams #.75 – 3.
3
PB
Grade 16
2 Bolt
12m Debated whether it stands for 'peanut butter' or 'pointless but necessary', a dirty little pitch up the jug infested crack below the rata tree that gives access to the following climbs on the ledge above.
4
Teardrops From Space
Grade 21
13 Bolt
36m Longer is always better. Climb PB, but step left before getting to the ledge, clip a bolt and mantle like you mean it. Veer left to navigate your way through brokenness to the marathon of gray goodness above. Lower off to PB's ledge and abseil twice unless you've got an extra-long rope.
5
At a Pinch
Grade 18
11 Bolt
26m Climb PB's crack to the ledge, make sure your belayer is paying attention and pull through some hardish moves to get up into the corner and into a whole new world of funk and squeezy weirdness that feels more like caving than climbing. Makes a nice short multi-pitch if you decide to split it up by stopping on PB's ledge
6
Man on Wire
Grade 24
8 Bolt
24m This prize line speaks for itself. Excellent climbing in an outstanding position. Starts from PB's ledge, belay from the double bolt anchor, clip the high bolt on the slab before venturing out to the shallow crack at the arête. The start is apparently closer to 25/26 no matter how you do it.
7
Blimp Redemption
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m This climb started out like an onion; covered in an unappealing brown and yellow skin, but after a few days of scrubbing the outer layers came off and left this tear streamer of a route. Originally climbed on gear, it's now fully bolted for safety and mental health reasons.
9
Waiting for a Sunny Day (Prj)
Grade 0
4 Bolt
10m Starts left of the overhang with a leap to the large hollow sounding flake (don't belay below this). The remainder is self explanatory. Always dry.

Kiki Corner is the furthest right wall of Paradise.

Access: Located up the steep slope through the kiki with a fixed handline just right of the Love Shack. The Love Shack is the furthest right sandy overhang and the first one you arrive at when walking up the trail from the car park

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

-
WTF Silverwood! It's a Sloper!
Grade 21
5 Bolt
15m Climb the arête left of Kiki My Eeky. Surprisingly tricky and a sticky heel will help you stay on. Grade 21 if you avoid using the dirty back wall until the 4th bolt. Equipped by Neil Silverwood
-
Kiki My Eeky
Grade 18
26m You'd never guess this innocent looking open book corner could strike terror into so many sport climbers, but then again they've probably heard of a finger lock. Keep your eyes peeled for sneaky gear placements beside the crack. By the way, the diving board has been tested to 85kg.
-
Blast-phemy
Grade 19
26m Starts 3m right of Kiki My Eeky, Clip a low bolt then blast upwards through the fist crack through some lovely slots and stays left of the tree and shrubbery. Finally clip another bolt and dart immediately left into the corner to finish up Kiki My Eeky.
1
Every Tear a Waterfall
Grade 20
7 Bolt
18m A delightful number especially if you have a knack for finding hidden holds. Starts just before dropping right into the gully enroute to the Cuckoo's Nest.
2
A Quarter to Sunshine
Grade 19
10 Bolt
22m The first climb at Paradise. A well protected groovy little climb just left out of the Cuckoo's Nest over top of the handline and up into the immaculate rock.
3
One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest
Grade 22
7 Bolt
22m Starts off the pillar moving left. A naughty little crux leads to some grade 18/19 climbing above, finishing in a fine position on the small arête.
4
Chocolate X's
Grade 17
9 Bolt
23m Chimney fiesta! Just like vegemite, don't knock it till you've tried it. Jump off right from the pillar and follow the friendly line of bolts to the slab above
5
Little Timmy the Guzzberry
Grade 19
7 Bolt
20m Black Coffee's annoyingly close younger sibling, great climbing nonetheless. Takes the left side of the dubious but solid jugs to the left side of the arête, until finally stepping out to share the last bolt of Black Coffee.
6
Black Coffee
Grade 18, 19
15 Bolt
1. 20m Better than it looks and gets even better higher up. Psych yourself up for the crux at the small roof
2. 22m Step right to a bolt, ignoring the instantaneous exposure and storm upwards to the arête and beyond. Finish up via the last 2 bolts of Chocolate X's.
7
Bent
Grade 18
5 Bolt
13m Ballerina shoes might be more appropriate for the crux on this climb. Up the slab past some uber delicate moves at the 2nd bolt and then disappear off left behind the tree to the anchor.
8
Meanderthal
Grade 18
8 Bolt
20m The fairly well vegetated crack at the highpoint in the gully (the bolts just left of the crack). Bridge up, stepping left gently onto the slab, up past the tree then its time to use your imagination to get back into the crack. Bridge like a starfish all the way to the top.
9
Famous People Aren't so Famous
Grade 23
11 Bolt
28m A tricky number that keeps you on your toes right to the top. Start up Meanderthal's crack, clip the bolt on the right wall, and head for the sandy scoop. From here it's pretty self-explanatory, pre-crimp your fingers and follow the bolts. Can be helpful to sling the 4th and 6th bolt.
10
Assisted Suicide
Grade 19
30m The crack hidden behind the kawakawa trees. Imagine finding a piece of gold whilst out scouring the beach for greenstone. That's how Silverwood must have felt finding this gem. Sustained and terrifying climbing from start to finish, crux hits you at 7m, protected by good cams. A standard rack just cuts it, and a 00 micro cam up top will keep your shorts dry.
11
Just Another Day
Grade 22
9 Bolt
22m Recommended for both the quality of climb and for the bonus option of belaying from your sleeping bag. Start on the grass just left of the bivy with rings for its bottom two bolts.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 30 mins 100 m

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Machupicchu

Machu Picchu is arguably the best crag in Bullock Creek if you are the type of person that: • enjoys easy-moderate multi-pitch climbing on naturally clean rock • likes watching the sunset over the ocean from a kushy ledge after your climb • can't stand climbing on the same type of rock for two pitches in a row • wants a steep and gnarly approach through some fine west coast bush

Access: : Drive up Bullock Creek Road and park at a small grassy parking spot on the right-hand side with a large log (1.8km from SH6). Walk back down the road 10m and take a steep gravel bank down to the creek. Cross using a rock bridge and follow the flagging tape through thick bush up a steep and sometimes slippery track to the base of the cliffs. Climbs are accessed via a short handline onto a ledge located 30m right of where the trail meets the rock.

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Dark and Ominous
Grade 18
5 Bolt
15m Starts on a low angled slab and ascends the arete above.
2
Sweet Jane, Jane Cuts loose
Grade 16, 16, 18
21 Bolt
1. 15m Climb up the middle of the main face to a DBA beneath a large roof.
2. 15m From the DBA traverse left to the Arete. Then up right to a 2nd DBA.
3. 24m This pitch was added 5 years after the lower two. Climb right of the DBA. Clip 3 bolts and reach for a jug out right. Follow the line of bolts through super featured rock to an atmospheric belay station. Wild.
3
Crown of Thorns
Grade 20, 0
10 Bolt
1. 30m Climb up the right hand side of the lower face. Step onto the super exposed wall above a square cut roof. Climb through the crux low down on the wavy wall. Shares a DBA with the second pitch of Sweet Jane.
2. Closed project.

Showing all routes 26 routes total

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Sports - 24 routes - avg. grade 18 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 2 routes - avg. grade 17 17 - 21
Punakaiki

The Punakaiki Valley, has a few small limestone, sportclimbing crags. Information also available in http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Access: The Punakaiki Valley, has a few small limestone, sportclimbing crags. Information also available in http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/ At the Punakaiki river bridge turn left onto gravel road, open gate next to cattle yards, shut gate, drive 200m and Weka Wall is located on your right. While the road goes through to the Paparoa National Park, the crags and access is on private land. ABSOLUTELY NO CAMPING IS ALLOWED ON THE PROPERTY/FARM LAND. Access to climbing relies on this being adhered to!! Please also observe the common sense to leave gates as found, the dog at home, and remove the rubbish!

Attribution: Neil Silverwood, Jack Grinstead, Lindsay Main. Additional information added from the pdf by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood. http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

Showing all routes 7 routes total Time 2min 20 m

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Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Punikaiki%20vly2

Weka Wall is a very accessible, bolted crag very close to the Punakaiki River bridge. Climbs are between 8m and 18m high. All climbs have anchor bolts. The crag was developed by Neil Silverwood and Heidi Godfrey in September 2009.

Access: At the Punakaiki river bridge turn left onto gravel road, open gate next to cattle yards, shut gate, drive 200m and Weka Wall is located on your right. ABSOLUTELY NO CAMPING IS ALLOWED ON THE PROPERTY/FARM LAND. Access to climbing relies on this being adhered to!! Weka Wall’s first few routes were developed during a rainy spell and remained dry the whole time. 10-20m upstream of WW is a small resurgence, this water is part of the Punakaiki town water supply so please do not toilet within 100m either side or contaminate this water. Weka Wall is also home to Weka and Pukeko, please do not feed the birds. Any queries, feedback contact Neil Silverwood neilsilverwood@hotmail.com or Heidi Godfrey heidi_godfrey@yahoo.co.nz. It is highly recommended to wear a helmet at the base of the crag.

NH
The End of Motion
Grade 21
6 Bolt
18m Straightforward apart from the roof near the top.
VS
View to sea
Grade 16
6 Bolt
18m Hands down best climb on the wall. If only Silverwood could put up a route this good.
Eh
Eehaw
Grade 15
3 Bolt
10m A good starting point for those new to the vertical hobby
Mx
Max
Grade 16
5 Bolt
10m Absolute bananas.
WW
Weka Watch
Grade 15
4 Bolt
10m Missing hangers at the moment?
Hl
Hansel
Grade 16
3 Bolt
10m Bit of a tricky start but turns into a delightful little number.
Gl
Gretel
Grade 13
4 Bolt
8m Something to do when you've done the rest.
Atc2Atcwall

A tasty little gem hidden amongst the bush with awesome steep, juggy climbing. (about 10 metres high) a few hundred metres up the Punakaiki Valley Road of immaculate compact limestone complete with sheltered grassy belay ledge. It has a northwesterly aspect for warm, sunny climbing. The crag was discovered in 2008 by Jack Grinsted and Lindsay Main.

Access: Park at an obvious turnout about 50 metres from the crag, and follow the track through the bush.

Attribution: Jack Grinsted and Lindsay Main. Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood, http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Flight Control
Grade 22
Follows the weakness on the left side of the wall.
2
Thievery Corporation
Grade 25
Get established on the flowstone; then make the hard moves through the bulge and finish at the Flight Control belay . .
3
First In Flight
Grade 19
Climb the overhanging wall on substantial holds to the horizontal break, where the character of the climb suddenly changes, with crimpy moves on the finish.
4
Honour Among Thieves
Grade 17
Reachy moves on big holds up the lower steep section of the route, after which it changes to a more delicate style on small holds.

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 5min 20 m

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Kneecow2Ocean

This is the large north-facing wall with an undercut start and obvious horizontal banding, indicating a healthy series of overhangs. The crag is about 25 metres high and has some excellent pumpy climbing that stays dry in all weather.

Access: Find the track on the other side of a swampy area, leading straight to the crag. It follows the main central drainage.

Attribution: Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood, http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Endeavour
Grade 22
10 Bolt
25m Hard moves off the ground can be avoided by traversing in. The route is sustained and slightly overhanging. Be wary of loose holds.
2
Walk the Plank
Grade 24
6 Bolt
18m Just to the right of Endeavour – a steep pumpy line. While cleaning Josh abseiled off his rope, but fortunately was not seriously hurt.
3
Simone's Nose
Grade 18
7 Bolt
18m Approach on cams by traversing in from Walk the Plank (or Endeavour).

Showing all routes 3 routes total Time 1 25 m

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Kneecow2 1Kneecow

The distinct left-hand aréte a short distance downstream from the Ocean Wall. Steep lower wall, mostly excellent hard rock with some bands of loose/weak rock. Named for several large Nikau palms which shade the base of the cliff. Helmets strongly recommended.

Access: Track up to the crag is flagged and cut from the right hand end of the swampy area below the Ocean Wall.

Attribution: Jason Blair, Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood, http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Elbow Sheep
Grade 20
7 Bolt
20m This route tends left through the overhanging lower section, around the corner and up the left side of the aréte. Look out for sneaky bolts. Bolted by Neil Silverwood.
2
Set Menu, Eh?
Grade 22
8 Bolt
22m Shares first bolt with Elbow Sheep, then heads right up the steeper part of the face. Meanders a little, especially above the bulge where the rock deteriorates. DBA.
-
Optical Illusion
Grade 23
8 Bolt
20m

Showing all routes 5 routes total Time 10 mins 60 m

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Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 16 0 - 16 17 - 21
Pittapatta

Pita Pata Wall is hidden in the bush high up above the Punakaiki River. It was developed in desperation on a rainy day -Bullock Creek was flooded and most other areas of rock were wet. It’s wee walk up to the crag, but it stays dry in any wether and the views out to sea are stunning!

Access: Park just before the 2nd gate. Head right up through a grassy clearing and look for a marked track in the bush. Cross under a wire and up to the base of a chossy cliff. Follow this around to Pitapata Wall.

Attribution: Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood, http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/

1
Rain Dance
Grade 16
4 Bolt
12m Cruise from jug to jug up past three bolts to a spicy finish.
2
Gumboot Route
Grade 15
6 Bolt
12m The name is a reference to the first ascent footwear.
3
The Darkness Comes
Grade 17
6 Bolt
14m Sustained climbing on featured rock.
4
Inspiration Exploration
Grade 17
6 Bolt
14m Pumpy moves to gain an easy face.
5
Pitta Patta
Grade 16
6 Bolt
14m Bridge up the right-hand corner through a couple of steep moves to easier climbing after the bulge.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 0 m

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Dolomite%20pt

There's so much goodness about this little area. It is hard to know if one is just blinded by the beauty of the location or if the climbing is really a notch above. Either way, a quick stop to sample the few climbs beside the sea or just soak in the sunset is highly recommended. Keep in mind that the corrosive ocean environment is taking its toll on the stainless steel bolts which are already showing some staining. Use good judgement.

Access: Park at the paved parking spot halfway down the hill just north of Pancake Rocks. Go over the fence and down the steepness or walk around and along the boulders beside the sea. Ill Peripheral is the stunning arête you can see from the road. Wave Rider is found past Ill Peripheral, through a bit of bush then under a couple of blocks to a north facing wall.

Attribution: http://www.kiwitracks.com/paparoa/ by Neil Warrington & Neil Silverwood

1
Le Crème de la Crack
Grade 17
12m With rock altering super powers, the only thing to do to this climb would be to stretch it to 30m. The fainter crack 1m left of the Cat's Meow.
-
The Cat's Meow
Grade 17
12m The very prominent finger/handcrack up the centre of the block. Yes, it absolutely is as good as it looks. A must do if you're driving by.
3
Ill Peripheral
Grade 23
5 Bolt
18m A gorgeous line that would cause any sunset photographer to snap several hundred photos. Unfortunately it is rarely climbed except by the extraordinarily bold due to a run-out between the 3rd and 4th bolt.
4
Wave Rider
Grade 19
5 Bolt
15m A high fear inducing 1st clip leads to some stellar moves up the crux protected by the 4th bolt. Finish up and soak in the stunning scenery.

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tba

Showing all routes 1 route total 1450 m

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Approach%20topoMt%20euclid%20alastair%20%2817%29 0

A stunning granite peak in the Paparoa Ranges. The South Face of Mt Euclid has a huge amount of rock climbing potential. Many routes are possible on the 250 metres high vertical face. The rock type is granite, featured with great friction and many quartz veins for holds. Protection is good in general, but most placements require some excavation of vegetation.

Access: Best approach is via an unmarked track off of a logging skid by the Little Totara River (See topo). Access to base of track is possible with 4wd or take a mountain bike ~10km. The track is roughly flagged up to Mt Fleming then traverse around to the south face of Euclid. Many potential bivvy rocks with small tarns dotted around the basin, or good camping next to the lake.

EG
Euclidean Geometry
Grade 19
240m

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Showing all routes 2 routes total 1958 m

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Image06

Kaimata Range

Attribution: Graham Kates

A
Taramakau Gully/ South Face
Grade 1.25
Cross the Taraakau River opposite Rocky Creek. Bah through the easy scrub and swamp to meet the obvious rock gut that cuts a swath south face.. The steep gut has several waterfalls and cliffs which have greasy by-passes, be careful!. Halfway up the route a major fork is met. To follow the true left you will meet a overhung rock choke, which may be possible if you are fearless. Alternativley climb out the gut prior to the fork on its true right, climbing on shrubby ground to join up with an easy rock ridge. This ridge merges into scree slopes, followed by a series of easy gullies and scrambles to the summit
B
SE Ridge
Grade 1.25
There is no easy way to approach this ridge, the full flow of the Taramakau River (includes the Otira River) must be crossed in one or two channels, then a west coast scrub bash ensues to gain the upper ridge, from either the true right spur adjacent the creek draining the Mt Howe basin, or an obvious diagonal fault scarp about 200m further downstream. Either way there tends to be some steep, slippery terrain hidden in the beech forest. Once treeline is reached travel along the wide open ridge is easy. Steepening rock is encountered about 300m short of the summit, in winter the snow/ice allows fairly easy travel (beware of cornices!), in summer expect loose, gruddy rock. An alternative is to track west under the ridge rocks using a series of interlinked scree/snow gullies that lead to the summit, this makes an easier descent route (take care in winter as these are also avalanche paths).

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North-west from McKenzie Col, between the Waitaha and County Rivers. The Bloomfield Range consists of moderately high and rounded peaks, mainly severely eroded, gravelly schist, but broken here and there by more stable rock bluffs, particularly in upper Reid Creek. The range is either enclosed in branches of the Waitaha or has big glaciated walls that face into a tributary of the Whitcombe. It has quite an air of isolation, offering easy climbing days high in Westland.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Traversing the range
Grade 0
The Bloomfield Range can be traversed from Mt Bloomfield over Artist Dome and along to Park Dome. Much of this alpine traverse is straightforward for climbing parties, but at J34 395803 / BW18 295 187 a couloir leads up to Pt 2196 metres through a bluff line on the County side, and near Park Dome a chimney leads through another small bluff line. This traverse can be a wonderful loop, starting from the Stag–Reid Creek forks and descending off Park Dome.

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The Adams Range runs from Mt Adams through to the north western corner of the Gardens at Mt Kensington. The only track on the whole range is that leading from Little Man Creek up to the scrubline on Mt Adams. Mt Adams itself was first ascended as part of the West Coast topographical survey in the 1880s by W Wilson and offers a spectacular view over much of the Adams Wilderness. Charles W Adams was also a surveyor in the 1880s, but working in the upper Rakaia. A massive rockfall off the Adams Range in the 1990s spewed debris down into the Poerua Gorge below the forks, covering farmland below.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Adams Range Traverse from Mt Adams to Mt Kensington
Grade 0
An alpine range traverse. Travel from 2194m through towards 2042m is easy. Beyond, the first traverse party reported interesting rock climbing in places, but continued to make steady progress along the range, reaching Barlow Saddle the same day. Rock was variable, with them cutting steps in loose steep schist rock at one point. Much of the range from pt 1528m to pt 1605m is tussock and short grass, and there are some wonderful campsites with tarns between pt 1576m and pt 1557m. A short section between pt 1557m and pt 1605m is exposed and loose in places, with small tussocky pinnacles. Beyond, the ridge broadens into gravel leading to the West Ridge of Kensington, where snow gullies lead through to the summit if required. Howitt and Gill fixed climbed a few hundred metres of the razorback rock ridge dividing the Poeroa from the Barlow before a 60m 'vertical razorback' forced them down onto the snow route up. Gordon Howitt and Alan Gill from the West Coast Alpine Club, 29th and 30th December, 1963, as part of a six day trip that climbed Mt Adams, traversed the Adams Range to Mt Kensington then descended most of the north ridge of Kensington before being forced to abseil off it into the head of the Poerua Valley. Their packs weighed about 12kg, they took two ropes, one 40m the other lighter and about 12m, a piton for emergencies, but no tent or primus.

Showing all routes 37 routes total

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Alpine - 37 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+

The western side of the Landsborough River catchment.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2440 m

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TBA

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West Ridge
Grade 2.75

Showing all routes 1 route total 1650 m

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TBA

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McKerrow Glacier to Harpers Rock Bivvy and Douglas River
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 1958 m

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TBA

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From Karangarua Saddle
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 1530 m

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TBA

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From the Landsborough
Grade 1.75

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2043 m

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TBA

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Megawatt
Grade 5.25

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South Ridge
Grade 2

Showing all routes 1 route total 1445 m

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TBA

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Mueller Pass
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 2355 m

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TBA

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North East Ridge
Grade 2.75

Showing all routes 1 route total 2148 m

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TBA

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Eastern Slopes
Grade 1.75

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2378 m

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TBA

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East Face
Grade 2

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North Face
Grade 1.25

Showing all routes 1 route total 1860 m

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TBA

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From Upper Otoko Pass
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 1439 m

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TBA

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Lower Otoko Pass
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 1662 m

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TBA

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From the Landsborough
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 1860 m

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TBA

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Mt Gow
Grade 1

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2640 m

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Mt Hooker is a superb massif flanked on three sides by extensive glaciers. An impressively steep north face dominates the view from the upper Otoko River. Hooker is readily visible from the Haast and West Coast highways, and provides a powerful attraction for climbers who want to experience climbing west of the Main Divide. From the west, rapid approach can be made up the Otoko Valley to reach the junction with Jack Creek, or further on the Upper Otoko Pass. Access can also be gained from the east by crossing the Landsborough River and Solution Range or from the south by traveling up the Landsborough and Clarke Valleys. Climbing parties require a minimum of one and a half days to reach Mt Hooker from the west or south.

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From Jack Creek
Grade 0

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South East Ridge
Grade 4

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South Face
Grade 3.25

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From Marks Flat
Grade 2.25

Showing all routes 1 route total 2343 m

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TBA

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From Jack Creek
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 2123 m

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TBA

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East Ridge
Grade 1

Showing all routes 1 route total 2125 m

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Hooker Range

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South Face
Grade 1

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2451 m

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TBA

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North East Ridge
Grade 2.25

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From Karangarua River
Grade 2.25

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South Ridge
Grade 2.25

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West Face
Grade 2.25

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2561 m

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Then came a perfect day. We left at 4 a.m. for Strachan, the mecca of the expedition, going up via the Mueller Pass; then south west up the grass and shingle slopes, and thence up the Strachan Glacier. Taking in a snow peak to the south and cutting back over our steps, we finally stood on the summit of Mt Strachan (8559 feet) at 9.15 a.m. It was the one perfect day we had, and it was the finest unclimbed peak of this region, and both were matched by a peerless view. Tier upon tier the serrated ridges rose up one above the other until they culminated in the crowned head of Mount Cook. To the west the blue ocean broke in white breakers on the shore: to the south lay a lovely blue lake; while at our feet the long Landsborough Valley meandered down toward the Haast. Marie Byles, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1935.

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North Ridge
Grade 2.25

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North West Face
Grade 2.25

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South Ridge
Grade 2.25

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2643 m

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TBA

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East Face
Grade 2.25

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South Ridge
Grade 1.75

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West Face
Grade 1.75

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North Face
Grade 2

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2299 m

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TBA

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East Slopes
Grade 1.75

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From the Morse River
Grade 2

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2266 m

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TBA

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North Slopes
Grade 1.75

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South Face
Grade 1

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Before tracks were cut up the Waitaha, the Hitchin Range was used for access to the upper Waitaha Valley. Getting up onto the range is not that easy, but the range itself offers a great tops trip in good weather to Raged Peak (shown as Ragged Peak on earlier maps) and the upper Waitaha.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Waitaha Road to Mt Allen via the Robinson Slip
Grade 0
Access is from Waitaha Road. The road shown on the topomap is on private property beyond the houses at I34 257905 / BV17 157 289. Permission is required to cross private land in this area ( Jody and Andrew Shaw, phone 03 755 4900). Public vehicle access is through a gate on the right (west) and down a track heading straight to the Waitaha riverbed, where there may be a locked gate. From here, head south along the riverbed. The vehicle track follows the edge of the Waitaha riverbed all the way to Macgregor Creek, at the southern edge of the alluvial fan below Robinson Slip (the whole alluvial fan is farmed and fenced off, excluding access). Then it is up the true right of Macgregor Creek to the forks (I34 272873 / BW17 172 257), and up Robinson Slip’s stream bed to the forks at I34 291878 / BV17 191 262. Some climb out about 200 metres below these forks and sidle through scrub on a broad spur on the true right, returning to the true right branch above the forks at about the 1000-metre contour. Above here, the steep stream leading up to the north-east has been followed up to the ridge north-west of Mt Allen. The slip is steep, eroding and periodically active, so this is not a place to be during rain.
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Mt Allen to Ridland Saddle
Grade 0
Mt Allen has a metre-high cairn on it, just visible from Ridland Saddle. From Mt Allen, although the range can be traversed to Mt Hitchin, there are steep exposed sections at J34 313867 / BW18 213 251 and J34 318863 / BW18 218 247. A much better line heads along the ridge to J34 311874 / BW18 211 258 and follows a rib due east, turning south to a small stream just before the main gully draining Ridland Saddle. Cross to the spur on the true right of the stream draining Ridland Saddle and follow the spur up to the saddle. There are tarns and campsites around Ridland Saddle on short grass. Mt Hitchin is an easy scramble in tussock from the east. Chainman Creek has been used to descend to the Waitaha from Ridland Saddle but there is a gorge between about the 900 and 1000 metre contours. This has been sidled on the true left. Time : Mt Allen to Ridland Saddle, 2 ½ hrs
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Ridland Saddle to Raged Peak
Grade 0
Most of the range is straightforward, but there are two gnarly bits. The first is east of Pt 1721 metres. This can be sidled on the northern side of the ridge about 30 metres down, leading to gravel slopes and the range again at J34 349859 / BW18 250 243. A bit of scouting will be required. The second is at J34 363857 / BW18 263 241 where the ridge is steep but traversable. Time : 3 hrs

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Several broken sections – above Seddon Col, above the Ivory Glacier and along Sawtooth Ridge – make the Lange Range quite rugged in places. As on the Bloomfield Range, much of the crest is crushed schist, but in some places the rock is better. It’s a great place for those with some alpine confidence to play around. Hermann Henry Lange was a sailor, miner and shipwright who worked as a builder on the West Coast in 1867.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Price Basin Hut to Wilkinson Hut
Grade 0
Cross the Price Basin stream and climb out east-south-east towards Pahlow Ridge, following tussock leads then passing through a boulder field at 1200–1300 metres. Sidle around the base of a shingle slip at about 1400 metres to a cairn on a rib, and continue to Pahlow Ridge. Descend to where the ridge flattens just before Johanson Peak and drop 40 metres off it to the south. Sidle in tussock across to a stream at the 1240-metre contour (J34 457835 / BW18 357 219). Follow this stream down to the Whitcombe River. There are several easy waterfalls to sidle on the true left in the lower stream. Follow the true left bank of the Whitcombe (and the old track, where you can find it) up to Wilkinson Hut. When travelling in reverse the stream does not look promising looking up from the Whitcombe, but it is marked by a cairn near the river. Remember to take the true left branch halfway up. Time : About 7 hrs
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Ivory Lake to Price Basin Hut
Grade 0
From Ivory Lake Hut, cross a stream to the east and follow up the ridge at J34 406836 / BW18 305 221 to Pt 2056 metres on the Lange Range. (This point can also be approached from the head of Ivory Lake, up a gully and approaching from the west and north.) Descend the spur east off Pt 2056 metres. At about J34 419844 / BW18 319 228 the ridge is broad but broken and steep for 20 metres – negotiable with care through small bluffs on loose rock down to where the it flattens out. The ridge then narrows for a short distance, followed by easy travel to the rib that leads directly down to Price Basin Hut. There are tarns and a campsite at the saddle a few hundred metres south-west of Mt Wylde Brown. Time : 5–6 hrs

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Runs east of the Inagahua Valley and west of the Maruia Valley

Showing all routes 1 route total 1749 m

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Victoria Range

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South Ridge
Grade 0
From point 1627 descend to a saddle to the NW and then climb the south ridge to the summit. A significant gendarme was avoided by sidling into a basin south of the summit.

Showing all routes 50 routes total

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Alpine - 50 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

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Access: The Whataroa is a major catchment draining peaks on the Main Divide from Mt Elie de Beaumont to the Garden of Eden and offers some wonderfully rugged mountains to climb in. Tracks lead to the head of the main Whataroa and as far as the Redfield Bridge just beyond Scone Creek in the Perth branch, but approaches up the valleys are challenging in themselves, requiring a high standard of fitness and commitment to the walk in. Consequently, not so many people climb here. Of those who do, some bypass the valleys by flying, and some approach over the Divide from the east. The climbing has a wilderness quality to it, and would be approached more often from a transalpine than from a technical climbing perspective. There are some wonderful transalpine routes in the region, such as those along the Price Range, over Whataroa Saddle, from the Butler Valley to the Neish Plateau, and traversing into and out of the Garden of Eden via The Great Unknown. Climbing on major peaks in the south of the catchment is reasonably serious, offering steep and sometimes long routes (up to 2000 metres height gain). Many climbs along the Main Divide from Elie de Beaumont to McClure Peak are also covered in the NZAC Aoraki Mount Cook guidebook. Yet for those who study maps and photos carefully, there is still scope for challenging new routes, such as recent climbs on the North West Buttress of Mt Whataroa and the North Face of Hochstetter Dome. Huts Butler Junction Hut (DOC): An eight-bunk hut, woodburner Whymper Hut (DOC): A six-bunk hut Stans Hut (community maintained): A four-bunk hut in upper Reynolds Creek Top Butler Hut (DOC): A six-bunk hut Nolans Hut (DOC): A historic, basic four-bunk hut in the Perth Valley just beyond Hughes Creek. Beware of mosquitoes here. Scone Hut (DOC): A six-bunk hut at the junction of the Perth River and Scone Creek WHATAROA VALLEY Road to Whymper Hut From State Highway 6, follow a gravel road on the true left of the Whataroa River for 1 km to a carpark, DOC sign, and the start of foot access up the valley. The marked access crosses private land and Dave and Bernadette Friend can be contacted for permission (phone 03 753 4091). A rough but regularly maintained track leads up the Whataroa to Butler Junction Hut and then on to Whymper Hut, with breaks on the river stones at Reynolds and Scotts Beaches, and Barrowman Flat. The bridge onto the Gunn Range opposite Jacks Creek has been removed, but bridges cross the Whataroa above the Perth Junction, just below the Butler Junction, and just above Rocky Creek. A bridge also crosses the Butler River near its junction with the Whataroa. If an overnight break is required between Butler Junction Hut and Whymper Hut, there is a reasonable campsite on the true left of Rocky Creek, near the track about 100 metres before the bridge over the Whataroa. Times: Road to the Perth–Whataroa track junction, 2 hrs; Perth–Whataroa track junction to Butler Junction, 5 ½ hrs; Butler Junction to Whymper Hut, 4 hrs. Whataroa River to Lake Barrowman Originally named in 1937 by Apperley, Sweney and Barrowman as Lake Mannering, this lake can be approached easily up a gravel stream bed from glacial flats in the head of the Whataroa, below the Whymper Glacier. There is good camping at the lake outlet. More useful information in http://remotehuts.co.nz/

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Showing all routes 1 route total 2132 m

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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East Face
Grade 1.25
From Whymper Hut follow the valley draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, bypassing a steeper section by utilising easier slopes near Pt 1573 metres. Near the range, head north on snow to access snow slopes leading to the summit from the south-east.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2359 m

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Wilc

Wilczek Peak was named by the German zoologist and mountaineer Robert Von Lendenfeld in 1884.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North West Ridge
Grade 1.25
From Whymper Hut follow the Callery Saddle route to the snow basin east of the pass. Climb snow slopes to a col south of Pt 2093 metres. Cross the Callery Glacier then ascend snow slopes and a short gully onto the North West Ridge. A quick rock scramble leads to the summit.
SR
South Ridge
Grade 1.25
From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields beyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range. The pleasant rock scramble along the South Ridge is a little longer and more challenging than that along the North West Ridge, and leads over a subsidiary peak en route.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2269 m

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Alec 0

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

EF
East Face
Grade 1.25
From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields beyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2286 m

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Peter

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

NR
North Ridge
Grade 1.25
From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields beyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range. The Maximilian Range and snow slopes on it can now be followed south over Pt 2328 metres to Mt Peter.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2343 m

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Named after Rod Syme by the first ascent party. There is no record of an ascent from the Whymper.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Burton Glacier
Grade 0
From the foot of the icefall in the Burton Glacier, head up a steep couloir offering direct access to the Maximilian Range just south of Roderick.

Showing all routes 35 routes total

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Alpine - 35 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+

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Access: A DOC-maintained track leads up to the head of the Butler, but remember this is the West Coast, and even with tracks travel can be challenging. A bridge across the South Branch has improved access to Ice Lake. The mountains up here are awe-inspiring in height and grandeur. The Mawson Glacier is sometimes used to approach the Main Divide and Neish Plateau from here, and the stream below Ice Lake and the spur on its true right used to approach Grey Pass. Great transalpine lines. The Butler gives access to peaks such as Mt Huss, Dog Kennel Peak and Mt Victoire. Butler Junction Hut to Ice Lake From Butler Junction Hut a marked DOC track (recut in 2009) leads up to Top Butler Hut. To continue to Ice Lake, cross the Butler River South Branch on a new bridge then follow a cut and well-marked track (initially high above the river) to good camping at the south-west end of the lake. Times: Butler Junction to Top Butler Hut, 2 hrs; Top Butler Hut to Ice Lake, 2 hrs. Butler Junction Hut to upper Gunn River From the Butler Junction bridge over the Whataroa a maintained DOC marked route climbs to the scrubline on the Gunn Ridge, with big coloured marker poles near Pt 1203 metres. Above here markers cease, and the spur up onto the range is scrubby, narrow and eroding in places but negotiable. From the old cairn where the spur meets the Gunn Ridge, follow the ridge up to 1700 metres, then descend the valley that heads north from Pt 1854 metres to about the 1560-metre contour. From here sidle mostly west, crossing streams and climbing to 1700 metres again before swinging north-west down broad tussock slopes to lower flats in the upper Gunn basin. There are good campsites in the upper basin of the Gunn River to climb from. Descending from Gunn Ridge to the Whataroa, some have found the top of the tracked spur dangerous under loose snow and instead used the ridge over Pt 825 metres, which is less steep. This was reported as scrubby but reasonable going, as is McCormick Creek lower down. Time: Butler Junction Hut to cairn on Gunn Ridge, 5 hrs

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

tba

Access: For the most part, travel along the range from McFetrick Peak to Fardowner Peak is an easy rollercoaster, provided one can see where to go. But at the end of the range, north of Fardowner, greasy and broken bluffs on the ridge cut off the descent, making this a range with a sting in its tail. Leaving the range on the spur west of Gunn Peak also has its difficulties. To the east, tussock leads to Pt 1106 metres, and a spur heading north-east from it offers a hard, steep scrub bash down to the lower Whataroa. The range itself is a wonderful place to visit, most easily accessed from Butler Forks and the track into the upper Gunn Valley. Stans Hut is a community maintained four-bunk hut in upper Reynolds Creek. Traversing from Gunn River via Mt Cloher to Gunn Peak This is reasonably straightforward. Access to Mt Cloher from the Gunn River can be gained up a tiny side creek at I35 956553 / BW16 856 937 on the true left of the stream draining Mt Cloher, or up the spur at I35 950555 / BW16 850 939 and then sidling across an upper basin to the peak. A kilometre south of Gunn Peak it is easiest to sidle to the east through basins, avoiding a rough piece of ridge. Gunn Peak can also be sidled easily to the east. Fardowner is easily approached from Gunn Peak. The main ridge north-west from Fardowner is initially steep but traversable. However, at the col immediately southeast of Pt 1522 metres, guts and rotten rock walls make travel impractical. We don’t know anyone who has traversed or bypassed this.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Traverse
Grade .75
An easy scramble on shale-like rock leads to the summit from the south and east. From the north-west, a lightly exposed scramble leads along the Price Range. The ridge up to the Price Range from Pt 1527 metres, however, is of loose, friable schist that is steep, eroding, exposed and impractical.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2193 m

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Whatgl

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

WG
From Whataroa Glacier
Grade 1
A straightforward snow climb from the Whataroa Glacier.
Whatgl 0

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

SER
South East Ridge
Grade 2
From Ice Lake, access the upper Whataroa névé via the gully on the true left and cross the névé to the base of the ridge, which is made up of steep, loose and rotten schist, with rock stacks in places. This is all negotiable but requires care and pitching in a few places. The first ascent party used a rope most of the way.
WR
West Ridge
Grade 1.25
A straightforward climb from the Whataroa Glacier.

Probably named after Alex and Hughie McFetterich, who farmed Tartare Flat. Sometimes traversed en route to or from the head of the Callery River. Frank Pearson, Alan Gill, and Gordon Howitt used this route to exit the Callery via the Gunn River and Price Range at Easter 1964.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North West Ridge
Grade 1
From about the 1300-metre contour in the upper Gunn River, head north-west up moraine, then scree and snow slopes, to the crest of the range. Easy travel along the range leads to the summit. To continue to the Callery, follow the range south over normally easy schrunds to Tartare Saddle. A steep spur at I35 912509 / BX16 812 893 can be used to descend to the valley, where the Callery River is normally easily crossed below the lake. Traversing around the lake is really only practical on the true left.

Tatare Range

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Wigley Glacier Route
Grade 0
From the upper Gunn River, head up tussock slopes towards a buttressed spur on the true left of the stream draining the Wigley Glacier. A steep but negotiable gully (requiring scrambling on bedrock), about 100 metres before the Wigley River issues from a slit gorge, leads through bluffs to rocky knolls above and gravel flats further up the valley. Lower ice shown on the map below 1600 metres has now largely gone. From I35 958525 / BW16 858 909, gain access to the upper Wigley Glacier via a diagonal ledge that doesn’t look promising from below on the true right of the icefall. This gravel ledge leads easily up beside the icefall to where the ice and upper glacier can be accessed. Crevasses may make this more difficult with ice recession and later in summer. From the upper glacier, snow slopes lead to the ridge and the peak is a bit beyond that.
Alpine - 29 routes - avg. grade 2 0 - 2.75 3+

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Access: Travel on the true left is better, but the true right is needed for some routes. On the true left, follow the DOC track up to just before the new bridge over the South Branch, about 300 metres up from the forks, then leave it to continue up the river. A mostly followable marked route, maintained by locals and hunters, continues on the true left. A little upstream, it ascends a shingle slide and follows the edge of a high terrace in the bush. Further up, it follows up one side creek, crosses through scrub and rata forest between side creeks and returns to the South Branch down the side creek that joins the river at about the 900-metre contour. Continue to good grassy camping on the moraine wall. On the true right, the Butler River South Branch has a section of big boulders and thick scrub for several hundred metres, starting on the bend about 1 km up from Top Butler Hut. It is generally quicker (but not easy) to avoid this section by using creeks and scrub bashing high above the river. Climb the side creek draining the Nansen Glacier until well above the scrub and sidle up to the head of the river, going from side creek to side creek, keeping below the bluffs. Butler River South Branch to upper Gino Watkins and Nansen Glaciers Climbing peaks between Moffat and Loughnan from the west is challenged by access to the upper neves. Routes were eventually pushed through in the 1950s, which are climbs in themselves to some extent. The practicality of access will vary with seasonal snow conditions, and should parties camp they need to know that descending in bad weather may prove very difficult. From the Butler River South Branch, ascend the spur on the true right of the lower Gino Watkins Glacier and cross this west ridge of Cassino Peak at about 2100–2200 metres, followed by a small rock rib beyond, onto the southern névé of the Nansen Glacier. Alternatively, start looking for a route onto the Gino Watkins Glacier anywhere from about 2000 metres up. A party that climbed several new routes from the Nansen in the 1980s described this access as probably the crux of the trip. They headed past the lake at the end of the lower Gino Watkins Glacier and up the flank of the ridge, to the right of some prominent slabs. An unpleasant scree slope then led to the ridge, a broad ledge past a rock step, and easier snow slopes. They abseiled down to the Nansen névé.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

Loughnan 1

First climbed via the North East Ridge from the Grey Glacier by J Shanks, D A Carty, H Smith and L Dumbleton on 29 December 1935, turning gendarmes on the south-eastern side of the ridge.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From the Grey Glacier
Grade 0
At the head of the Grey Glacier climb up to two detached rocks at the base of the third buttress east of the peak, then ascend the rock rib to the Main Divide. As an alternative, head up snow slopes west of the detached rocks to the Main Divide, then traverse the serrated ridge turning gendarmes on the south. The first peak is considered the summit.
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North West Flank
Grade 2.25
From the Butler River head up the valley draining Grey Pass, initially sidling on the true right to reach the basin above the 1100-metre contour. At about 1600 metres, head south-west over rock to a reach a snow shelf at about 1800 metres. Head south up a steeper band of slabby rock to the left of a small buttress and continue over a rib to the eastern edge of the permanent snow slope north of the peak at about 2100 metres. Continue up rock and snow bands left of the main snow gully, reaching the Main Divide at about 2480 metres. Snowslopes lead to the summit.
SR
South Ridge
Grade 2.25
Access the Nansen névé from the South Butler Valley. From the sharp col between Pt 2413 metres and Pt 2540 metres, steep firm rock on the first ascent (but steep snow slopes on a subsequent one), led to the Main Divide. Traverse over various small summits along the narrow and exposed South (Divide) Ridge. A step on the ridge is reportedly less difficult than it looks.
Loughnan 0

(Northern Grey Virgin). Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna were known as the Grey Virgins, and resisted attempts for many years. Alamein and Takrouna remain unclimbed directly from the Grey.

Attribution: Alex Plaman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

SR
South Ridge
Grade 0
Climbed from the Nansen Glacier, up the South (Divide) Ridge. A short and easy climb with a few minutes of good rock at the top.
Loughnan

(Middle Grey Virgin). Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna were known as the Grey Virgins, and resisted attempts for many years. Alamein and Takrouna remain unclimbed directly from the Grey.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

OR
Original Route
Grade 2
From the Nansen névé, the summit pyramid involves snow slopes or a rock scramble, depending on conditions. A traverse of this peak along the Divide is straightforward.

(Southern Grey Virgin). Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna, were collectively known as the Grey Virgins. Attempts to climb them were made over many years and they were among the last significant peaks in the Alps to be climbed. Cassino Peak was originally climbed from the Grey Glacier along the South Ridge. From the low summit, traverse under rock pinnacles and up the right-hand face to the summit proper. John Harrison, Ian Baine, B H (Snow) Williams, L G Osborne, 29 December 1952

Attribution: Alex Plaman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South Ridge
Grade 0
Climb from the Grey Névé above the icefall to the hanging glacier. Then follow steep snow and rock to the Main Divide onto the low summit. Traverse under rock pinnacles between the summits and up the right hand face to the summit proper.
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From the West
Grade 2.25
From the lower Gino Watkins Glacier access the West Ridge. Up to the 2200-metre contour this ridge has been used as access by climbing parties camping on the Nansen Glacier. From the upper Nansen névé, climb the ridge to the summit.
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North Ridge (Main Divide)
Grade 2.25
Climbed from the Nansen névé, approaching the peak from the north, mostly up the face. On the first ascent a good snow lead took the party to the Main Divide North Ridge about 150 metres below the summit. Several pitches of mixed climbing led to the top. Descent via a snowface and a couple of snow gullies back to the Nansen.

First climbed up the South Ridge from the east by A J Scott, Russell Fraser, Alf Brustad, January 1933. The North Peak of Mt Livingstone (Pt 2476 metres) is unclimbed, and the ridge between here and Cassino is untraversed.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Original Route
Grade 0
From the col east of Moffat climb snow and ice slopes.
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South Ridge from the West
Grade 2
From the Gino Watkins Glacier, ascend a snow gully between Mt Moffat and Mt Livingstone. The snow climb up the ridge is not difficult, but access to the mountain pushes the grade up.

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Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South East Ridge
Grade 0
Climbed via Panorama, Bruce Murray, and Upton. Beyond Panorama and its snow plateau, the ridge had a mix of rock pinnacles and snow arêtes, while a tower before Upton Peak, like the peak itself, was turned on the north-east side. A shoulder of snow then led on to a narrow section of fine black crumbly rock that several early accounts disliked, followed by a step in the ridge that was passed on snow out to the left. Above this, a snow plateau with crevasses Climbed via Panorama, Bruce Murray, and Upton. Beyond Panorama and its snow plateau, the ridge had a mix of rock pinnacles and snow arêtes, while a tower before Upton Peak, like the peak itself, was turned on the north-east side. A shoulder of snow then led on to a narrow section of fine black crumbly rock that several early accounts disliked, followed by a step in the ridge that was passed on snow out to the left. Above this, a snow plateau with crevasses led them to the summit
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From the West
Grade 2
From the Butler River South Branch, access the upper Gino Watkins Glacier. This may be difficult. Climb snow slopes to the snow saddle between Mt Moffat and Mt Livingstone and continue to the summit
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South West Ridge
Grade 2.25
The first ascent party camped on the Nansen névé and crossed the west ridge of Cassino to access the Gino Watkins Glacier. The descent into the Gino Watkins was particularly steep. From theGino Watkins Glacier climb the west face of Pt 2543 metres to access the Main Divide southwest of Mt Moffat. The summit ridge was largely sidled on the left, returning to the Divide just below the top for a final arête. Reported as scrambling, with the odd pitch along the Main Divide.

Originally climbed on 9 December 1935 by D O W Hall and W G Mace via the north-east (Divide) ridge from the upper Sustins Glacier. The ridge is slow travel, and it is better to access the Main Divide up snow slopes closer to the peak itself. Most of the ridge between Mt Huss and Pt 2543 metres remains untraversed. Pt 2543 metres, near Moffat, is unclimbed.

Attribution: Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North Ridge (Main Divide)
Grade 0
Ascend a rock buttress, west of a snow couloir between the Sustins and Easter Glaciers, from the Classen Glacier. At the head of the couloir use snow and ice slopes to gain the Main Divide north-east of the peak, as close to the summit as possible.
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South Ridge (Main Divide)
Grade 3.25
A steep rock climb. The ridge has three steps, the first can be turned on the left and the second on the right, with an exposed traverse on rock dropping straight to the glacier below. The third step involves easy scrambling.
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West Ridge
Grade 2.25
From Lake Barrowman head up the true left of the stream draining the small glacier under Mt Huss. From the small glacier, two snow guts lead up to the range between Dog Kennel Peak and Mt Huss. The ridge is of the usual broken sort, but rock on Mt Huss proper is rough and firm, offering four simple but exposed pitches. A mixed route with good rock.
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West Face
Grade 4
600m Climbed from a camp in the Lake Barrowman Valley. ‘Reminiscent of the West Face of Haidinger, only harder and more rock’. A difficult route – the grade is approximate.
Loughnan 2

This peak on a ridge south-west of Mt Loughnan is well recognised in alpine literature from the 1950s, but is not named on current maps. It was named by the first ascent party after Allan Dick of Lilybank Station, who was very supportive of many climbing parties.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

ER
East Ridge
Grade 2
Access the Nansen Glacier as outlined above. From the col to the east, the peak has been climbed up broken rock, moving over towards the south face higher up.
Sthbutler 0

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Butler River South Branch
Grade 1
Ascend a snow gully that leads directly to the col between Pt 2198 metres and Pt 2020 metres. A short scramble leads to the broad snow summit.
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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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West Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the lower Barrowman Valley, scramble up onto this rocky ridge. Higher up, a snowfield gives a break, and there is enjoyable climbing on weatherworn rock slabs. Mixed ground then leads to the low peak. There is a descent and considerable climb from the low to the high peak and, on the first ascent, the route led north across a snowfield to a col on the North Ridge. Easy scrambling along that leads to the high peak.
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North Ridge
Grade 1.75
From the Butler River South Branch, ascend the snow gully that leads directly to the col between Pt 2198 metres and Pt 2020 metres and continue to the summit.
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South Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the Butler River South Branch head up the gully under the col at Pt 1838 metres, then north up snow slopes. From about the height of the col swing back to the left across broad ledges, a gully and steeper rock to the vicinity of the col itself. Follow up the South Ridge.
Sthbutler 3

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Original Route
Grade 1
This rock peak can be climbed up extensive slabs from the stream below Lake Barrowman. Snow on the slabs can be a significant avalanche hazard.
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West Face
Grade 0
A route on slabs from Barrowman Stream.
SER
South East Ridge
Grade 2
From the South Butler Valley, head straight up a snow gully then rock east of Mt Barrowman towards a col immediately south-east of Mt Barrowman. The last part to the col is difficult (slabs). Above, about five pitches (the first exposed and on loose rock) lead up the ridge to the summit.
Sthbutler 2

Named by Otto Frind in 1914.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

NR
North Rib
Grade 2
Begin up a snow gut (now often rock) that descends between the north-west ridge and the north rib. The route then swings left up the north rib, east of this gut.
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South West Face
Grade 2
From Lake Barrowman, follow the broad gully directly to the summit of Dog Kennel Peak. Falling from the route will see you in the lake, so take care!
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North West Ridge
Grade 2.25
From the South Butler Valley, head straight up the snow (rock) gully to the col immediately south-east of Mt Barrowman, and en route climb around a small waterfall out to the right. The last part to the col is difficult (slabs). The back (Lake Barrowman) side of Dog Kennel Peak offers steep snow and nice slabs.
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South East Ridge and ‘The Dog’
Grade 2.75
From the South Butler Valley, follow the narrow snow (or rock) gully leading up to the lowest point on the ridge between Mt Huss and Dog Kennel Peak. (The small peak immediately west of here is referred to as the Dog.) There are two difficult rock steps, the first leading up to the Dog. From there, descend a narrow snow ridge to a second col, where there is another rock step on the ridge, before the final easier climb to Dog Kennel Peak.

Showing all routes 9 routes total

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Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

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Access: Often used as a route out of the Garden snow plateaus, the Perth is a big river in its own right and longer than the river it feeds into, the Whataroa. A major tributary, the Barlow, is the epitome of wilderness and seldom travelled. A track leads up the Perth to Scone Creek Hut and a swingbridge across the Perth a short distance beyond. All tracks cease here, and travel up valley is on the riverbed or bushbashing, depending on conditions. Sealy Pass, the northern slopes of the Butler Range, Stewart Saddle and Main Divide peaks north of it where the peaks are not particularly difficult but access is, all offer great transalpine and climbing trips. As does The Great Unknown. Whataroa to Scone Creek From the swingbridge over the Whataroa, the track up the Perth climbs to a forested terrace, following the boggy line of the old cattle track. It descends to the Perth at Hughes Creek. Historic Nolans Hut offers somewhere dry to stay just beyond, but expect basic. Maintained to a marked route standard, the track continues upvalley to Scone Hut (6 bunk), then over the Scone Creek bridge to a second bridge over the Perth itself giving access to Redfield Creek and The Great Unknown. All tracks cease here. Scone Creek to the upper Perth The true left is used. Travel varies considerably, depending on river levels. Use gravel and boulder beaches as much as possible, as the bush is scrubby and slow. Prospectors Creek can be difficult to cross. There is a reasonable option where this stream splits into two at the 600m contour. Shingle offers better travel in the riverbed around Teichelmann and Tainui Creeks. Cut the corner on the 600m terrace above Teichelmann, descending to near river level again near Tarn Creek. Above Adverse Creek, use the slip marked on the true left of the Perth and go around the south side of the last patch of scrub marked in the valley to the flats. Good campsites and open travel exist to the head of the Perth now. Normally, the river is easily crossed on these flats. Times Road to Scone Creek Hut Scone Creek Hut to the head of the Perth Adverse Creek to the Garden of Eden In low to average flows, crossing the Perth is practical near the Junction with Adverse Creek. Follow up the true left of Adverse to tussock and low scrub slopes. Continue sidling up on slopes above the stream until it flattens off just above the 1000m contour. The stony basin can now be followed up around to the north. Climb out in the head on the true left of the valley to reach the Gardens at about I35 163617. Adverse Creek was named by Pascoe's party in about 1935. Time: allow about 7 hrs up and 5 down. Eves Rib to the Garden of Eden This is a direct but relatively steep route on loose gravel and rock, and care will be needed. Higher up, snowslopes east of the ridge offer the most practical route, reaching the lip of the Garden approx 500m east of pt 2007m. Pt 2007 can also be approached, but rock is loose leading up to the knoll itself, and the descent directly north to the Garden is on good rock but a little scrambling and routefinding will be necessary. Perth Glacier to the Garden of Eden The Perth Valley and glacier itself can be used as a direct route to Perth Col, depending on conditions. Early in the summer, enough snow may lie on the glacier to follow it directly, as it feeds into the head of the valley slightly from the true right. More likely, from the valley floor begin on the true left of this ice tongue under bluffs and continue up gravel in a steep rocky gully ahead between bluffs that also has a cowlick of ice feeding into it from the shelf above. Rock is loose here and some scrambling will be required. Old snow cover would help. Gravel slopes under the cowlick lead up climbers left, onto a shoulder above the bluffs where the ice can be accessed again, at I35 244608. Descending, sidle onto a gravel shoulder above bluffs where the ice finishes on the true left of the main glacier and above bluffs at I35 244608. Sidle diagonally on down to the left through the bluffs over gravel and bedrock into a small eroding gully that quickly leads to gravel slopes and the valley floor. Watch for loose rocks. Bettison Stream A marked track leads from the true right of Scone Creek as shown on I35 to the bushline on the true right of Bettison Stream. Here, cairns on open scree lead past scrub to the tussock. Sidle upvalley at about 1200m until reasonable travel in the stream below appears at about I35 153541, then follow up the stream

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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Main Divide Ridges
Grade 0
Traversed during a climb of Edison.
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North East Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the Havelock Valley, climb the North East Ridge on the true right of Edison Stream over several big but easy rock steps to the summit.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2337 m

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Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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South East Ridge
Grade 2.75
From the Havelock Valley gain the Main Divide south of Rankin Peak, or by following the North East Ridge route on Rankin Peak. Traverse Rankin Peak and follow the Main Divide to the summit. The final 50 metres is on steep, tricky rock.
Whatgl 1Mtwhataroa

Mt Whataroa is one of the dramatic buttressed peaks visible on the Butler Range when looking up the Whataroa Valley from the highway.

Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

IL
From Ice Lake
Grade 0
Access the névé of the Whataroa Glacier. Cross this and climb to the Butler Range, aiming for the saddle immediately east of Mt Whataroa. About 200 metres of rock scrambling leads to the summit.
NWB
North West Buttress
Grade 3
800m This 800-metre buttress is visible from the road bridge. Grass on the lower half of the route lets the climb down, but can be largely avoided by using a snow gully on the right. This gives access to a ramp/ledge leading out left onto the buttress proper. A difficult section of steep rock follows, where there is still some moss and grass. Eventually, solid rock climbing on schist slabs offers much better going. These lead to the summit crags. Climbing potential also exists on the pinnacle between Mt Whataroa and Tohunga Peak.

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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From Hughes Creek
Grade 1
The Butler Range has also been approached from the Perth. An old cullers track up a scrubby spur east of Nolans Hut is now unfollowable. A route preferred by hunters these days uses Pauline Creek to access the upper basins of Hughes Creek. Hughes Creek itself can also be used directly. The creek can be followed right up, with a sidle around a gorge necessary between the 600- and 700-metre contours, and a rougher bouldery section below the big fork at the 760-metre contour. Alternatively, the first marked creek on the true right below the big fork offers relatively open travel through the scrub zone, leading up to Pt 1450 metres from the north-west and has also been used to access the upper basins of Hughes Creek. In the true right basin, about 300 metres up from forks at 980 metres, a reasonable bivvy rock is reported. To continue to the Butler Range, go up the gully opposite the bivvy rock until the col east of Mt Whataroa is reached, then scramble up the ridge to 2014 metres. Mt Whataroa can also be approached this way.

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Attribution: Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

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North East Ridge
Grade 2
From the Whataroa Glacier sidle steep slopes, best under snow, to a rib off Whataroa Peak, and cross the snow gully beyond. Three rope-lengths on poor rock lead to the col between Tohunga and a sharp subsidiary of Whataroa Peak. A rock outcrop on the summit ridge can be traversed low on the Whataroa side. A reasonable route in suitable snow conditions, but otherwise pretty tricky. This party descended the obvious snow gully directly back to Ice Lake, which they don’t recommend.
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From Hughes Creek
Grade 1