Castle Hill basin is one of the world's best bouldering areas.
Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/4
Access: Safety notice for visitors to Flock Hill. http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/flockhillsafetynotice BEFORE VISITING FLOCK HILL THE DETAILS BELOW MUST BE READ AND AGREED TO. Welcome to Flock Hill Station. We are required to advise you of potential hazards and basic safety requirements on Flock Hill. As the person taking responsibility for the visit please ensure all members of your party have read or are aware of the contents of this notice. Flock Hill is a working high country station. As such there are many potential and real hazards including but not limited to;
Castle Hill is a spectacular limestone area adjacent to the Arthurs Pass Highway. There are hundreds if not thousands of boulder problems, and a smaller number of roped climbs at grades ranging from the mid teens through to 32. Most roped climbs are protected with 12mm coach bolts that do not take hangers, therefore you need to slip a wire over the head of the bolt and slide the nut tight up the wire. A few climbs require trad gear. Another very useful site for bouldering information is, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/areas
Access: Castle Hill is approximately 100km from Christchurch, towards Arthurs Pass on state highway 73. The area is on the west side of the road. There are restrictions on where you can climb or boulder on the rocks at Castle Hill. they are posted on the noticeboard at the carpark. The main closure is the Dark Castle PLEASE RESPECT THIS CLOSURE!! the area has rare plants, and Maori rock drawings. Here are some exerts from DOC's website. Ngāi Tahu wish to encourage respect for their association with Kura Tawhiti. A rock-climbing code is in place, and rock climbers are asked to be aware that to Ngāi Tahu, climbing the outcrops denigrates their tapu status. Code of conduct for Kura Tawhiti Visitors here to enjoy this intriguing landscape are asked to help protect these values by following the code of conduct. •Please stay on the access track - the paddocks are private property •Please use the provided toilet facilities •Refrain from digging holes or disturbing the ground surface - wahi tapu (sacred places) are here •Avoid trampling on endangered plants - use open spaces between rock outcrops rather than the bases of rock faces •Respect fenced areas •Take all rubbish away with you •Please do not mark the surface of the rocks •Consider others in the area •Rock climbers please follow the climbing code of conduct.
The area of boulders south to the south of Woolly Valley. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/8
Access: Follow the main access track from the carpark, when you get closed to the big limestone boulders, look left. this area is Spittle Hill. The Cyclops Boulder (diamond shape boulder with the big pock in the centre), is a good place to orient yourself.
The area of boulders in the middle of Castle Hill, north of Woolly Valley and South of Rambandit Valley. It has the main concentration of climbing in it. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/7
The scarp crag above the lime quarrry
Access: The access is unknown, and may off limits. It is on Castle Hill Station. Sidle northwards aprrox 500m from the Dark Castle.
The area of boulders north and uphill from the main Castle Hill Boulders. The first four climbs described are on the on the east wall of the eastern (larger) gully, known as the Ace of Spades Wall. The last three climbs are found on a shark fin shaped boulder on the northern side of the hill facing Castle Hill Village. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/9
Access: There is a prominent boulder on top of the hill that is sacred to Maori. Please respect this landmark and DO NOT CLIMB ON IT!
The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley. Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed. The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged. The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)
Access: The Dark Castle is CLOSED, mainly because it has been part of Castle Hill Station, and overlooks the house. Nothing has changed. Climbs on the West side of the Rambandit Valley are okay but all other areas of Dark Castle and the Lime Quarry scarp are currently still closed.