Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 219 routes total 500 m

Sports - 182 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 36 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Boulder - 1 route - avg. grade V13 V6+

Castle Hill basin is one of the world's best bouldering areas.

Showing all routes 1 route total

Marker Crags map | Google maps | Topo maps

Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/4

Access: Safety notice for visitors to Flock Hill. http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/flockhillsafetynotice BEFORE VISITING FLOCK HILL THE DETAILS BELOW MUST BE READ AND AGREED TO. Welcome to Flock Hill Station. We are required to advise you of potential hazards and basic safety requirements on Flock Hill. As the person taking responsibility for the visit please ensure all members of your party have read or are aware of the contents of this notice. Flock Hill is a working high country station. As such there are many potential and real hazards including but not limited to;

  • Livestock - Wandering and being mustered
  • Vehicles, plant and machinery including main trunk railroad
  • Unstable and un-maintained tracks
  • Swamps, waterways, rivers, caves, cliffs, old mines
  • Sudden changes in weather and river levels
  • Fire
  • Animal control – Shooting and poisoning
  • Weed control – machine and spraying (ground and air)
  • Other farm operations e.g. fertilizer (ground and air)
There is limited cell phone coverage at Flock Hill. You must have a pre agreed route or area you are visiting and have a person not with the group informed of who is with you, where you are going, when you are due out at the latest and what to do if you don’t make contact by the agreed time. Stick to your plan You are responsible to ensure all members of your party are suitably equipped for your intended visit especially in the event of a sudden deterioration of the weather. Generally we do not allow vehicles on Flock Hill. Where specific permission has been granted it is on the basis that all vehicles must stay on the tracks. Drivers must be experienced in off road four wheel drive operations and carry equipment to deal with emergencies. During summer every vehicle must carry at least one fully maintained 0.9 kg fire extinguish rated for class ABC fires and one shovel to deal with possible fire. Absolutely no dogs, firearms, smoking or naked flames on Flock Hill Leave gates as you find them. Please report any unexpected hazards on your return. Wilding pines are a menace; please pull out a few on your wanders! Enjoy your visit to Flock Hill Station

-
Trifecta Middle
Grade V13

Sports - 182 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 36 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Castle%20hill

Castle Hill is a spectacular limestone area adjacent to the Arthurs Pass Highway. There are hundreds if not thousands of boulder problems, and a smaller number of roped climbs at grades ranging from the mid teens through to 32. Most roped climbs are protected with 12mm coach bolts that do not take hangers, therefore you need to slip a wire over the head of the bolt and slide the nut tight up the wire. A few climbs require trad gear. Another very useful site for bouldering information is, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/areas

Access: Castle Hill is approximately 100km from Christchurch, towards Arthurs Pass on state highway 73. The area is on the west side of the road. There are restrictions on where you can climb or boulder on the rocks at Castle Hill. they are posted on the noticeboard at the carpark. The main closure is the Dark Castle PLEASE RESPECT THIS CLOSURE!! the area has rare plants, and Maori rock drawings. Here are some exerts from DOC's website. Ngāi Tahu wish to encourage respect for their association with Kura Tawhiti. A rock-climbing code is in place, and rock climbers are asked to be aware that to Ngāi Tahu, climbing the outcrops denigrates their tapu status. Code of conduct for Kura Tawhiti Visitors here to enjoy this intriguing landscape are asked to help protect these values by following the code of conduct. •Please stay on the access track - the paddocks are private property •Please use the provided toilet facilities •Refrain from digging holes or disturbing the ground surface - wahi tapu (sacred places) are here •Avoid trampling on endangered plants - use open spaces between rock outcrops rather than the bases of rock faces •Respect fenced areas •Take all rubbish away with you •Please do not mark the surface of the rocks •Consider others in the area •Rock climbers please follow the climbing code of conduct.

Showing all routes 43 routes total

Sports - 40 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 17 - 21
Spittle%20hill 1Spittle%20hill

The area of boulders south to the south of Woolly Valley. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/8

Access: Follow the main access track from the carpark, when you get closed to the big limestone boulders, look left. this area is Spittle Hill. The Cyclops Boulder (diamond shape boulder with the big pock in the centre), is a good place to orient yourself.

U
Usurper
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Thin Lh leaning crack on a white slab.
-
Time to Pack
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Line of pockets. Faces the farm.
-
Fire of my Loins
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Arete
TR
Tales from the Riverbank
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Climb up huge pocks.
-
Dark Side of the Moon
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Start as for TftR. Move R-wardsonto the wall over the corner onto the shelf.
-
Lily of the Valley
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Rib down & Rof TftR
DT
Death Trap
Grade 19
The crack behind TftR
-
Manufactured
Grade 22
2 Bolt
L of ODEM
-
Only Dogs Eat Meat
Grade 24
2 Bolt
R of DT
NP
Noxious Fish Plot
Grade 21
A small roun arete L of M. Traverse in from the L past the bolt to the thread runner finishing past the bolt.
FD
Frozen Dinners
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Slab Route on Rh-side of boulder
-
Married with Children
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Left of FD
-
Left Slab
Grade 20
2 Bolt

-
For Your Thighs Only
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Climb up steep pockets to th e scoop, and then onto a slab finishing past a horizontal break.
JC
Jumped Up Country Boy
Grade 14, 17
9 Bolt
1. Start on the R of the wall, trend L-wards crossing 4YTO
2. Trend R-wards after leaving the ledge.
-
Honey I Shrunk the Holds
Grade 27
3 Bolt
Go R-wards along the ledge to the big jug, then move L and upwards with some monos
-
Thrifty Belgians
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Climb the pocketed arete with a cap and smaal shrub at top.
-
Sculpting Time
Grade 20
2 Bolt
On the opposite side of the TB boulder. Scamble to a ledge, then start climbing.
Cm
Capitalism
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Exciting step up at the 3rd bolt.
-
Wedding Bells
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Climb the steepening slab, with an exciting clip on the 1st bolt.
GC
Groove Chicken
Grade 22
1 Bolt
The rounded groove.
-
Yet Another
Grade 18
1 Bolt
Found opposite from WB. Bouldery start to finish on pocks.
-
Miss Bojangles
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Uphill from YA. Start by rocking up on a small slab, and climbing a line of pockets finishing through a small overhang.
-
General Saint
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Opposite MB.
TA
Tectonic Awarness
Grade 21
1 Bolt
A pinnacle
-
Fat Transplant
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Just down from TA. Slab route.
-
Surf Nazis must Die
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Next boulder down from FT. Climb the wall with the big pock feature.
HH
Hitchhiking Horrors
Grade 19
2 Bolt
25m down from ToTR, to yellow/grey pocked wall. Follow the S shaped crack, exiting R-wards to top.
-
Fat Slags Slab
Grade 18
Slab to the L of Hp. Start on L, traveres R-wards into groove, over the flake sharing the finish with Hump.
Hp
Hump
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Small arete. Gain the ledge, then step L-wards along the flake.
-
Douglas McDougal
Grade 20
2 Bolt
On the yellow wall above Hump but below the roof. Move delicatley past the 2nd bolt, then L-wards to climb the crack to finish.
Br
Bullroarer
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Faces Woolly Valley. Start on big pockets then move R-wards up the slab, to set youself up for the final lunge at the top.
LT
L'Air du Temps
Grade 24
6 Bolt
Found on the back of the perfume bottle. Dyno up the north arete, then move L-wards upp the slab, the through the bulge and finishing up the groove.
OO
That Obscure Object of Desire.
Grade 18
2 Bolt
On the Craigiburn side of the perfume bottle. Start up the slabs on the Rh-side.
-
Face
Grade 24
3 Bolt
On the purfume bottle. R of TOOoD
-
Baby Boom
Grade 21
Behind the perfume bottle. Smear on to the arete, cross the wall onto the groove.
-
Left Slab
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Start on Lh-side, climb through the bulge, finishing on a slab.
-
Right Slab
Grade 13
3 Bolt
The route to the R of LS
SY
Sickly Rebel Yellow
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Corner that features a groove.
Bt
Blots
Grade 24
3 Bolt
To the R of SRY. Climb through the middle of the large white wall.
-
Country Touch
Grade 20
3 Bolt
10m R of Bt
WT
What's This?
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Behind AP, on the same boulder.
AP
Allah Protects
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Found at the head of Woolly Valley, ascends the obvious yellow wall. Grovel out of the groove and ascend the yellow wall, to finish below the roof.

Showing all routes 101 routes total

Sports - 86 routes - avg. grade 22 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 20 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Quantum%25202Quantum%20side 0

The area of boulders in the middle of Castle Hill, north of Woolly Valley and South of Rambandit Valley. It has the main concentration of climbing in it. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/7

PN
Pumpkin
Grade 29
5 Bolt
Left of the arete, climb the right-hand side of the face.
Sc
Subculture
Grade 24
3 Bolt
A techincal, thin and bouldery face climb.
-
Strangers on Journeys
Grade 25
4 Bolt
Ascend the face.
-
Voodoo Child
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Start on AR but keep right.
AR
The Arch Route
Grade 21
Climb through the arch and exit R-wards.
-
Love Buckets
Grade 12
3 Bolt
Climb the slab with massive buckets in it.
-
Weasel
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Next to the cave/corner, techinical clips.
Va
Voila
Grade 20
3 Bolt
A short slab route
-
Cold Ethyl
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Start 4m R of LC. Climb L-wards up the slab.
-
Lonesome Cowboy
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Start on a block, then traverse in L-wards to fingerlocks and upwards through the bulge.
YP
The Yellow Peril
Grade 0
Find the yellow blocky corner and climb to R.
PM
Phil McKrakin
Grade 18
Abseil in to belay station, and ascend the crack back to the top.
MC
Marmaduke Goes Chipping
Grade 23
4 Bolt
Climb through the flute and flake to the 4th bolt.
-
The Haptic Channels
Grade 26
3 Bolt
The 2nd pitch or contination of MGC.
-
Chocolate Coated Razor Blades
Grade 27
7 Bolt
A fingery line that vias L-wards.
AG
Adios Gringos
Grade 25
7 Bolt
Climb the grey/ yellow streak to join onto the finish of CCRB
DS
Dance of Silence
Grade 29
5 Bolt
Climb the fingery wall to the left of Adios Gringos.
-
Pete's Eats
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Work through the hard start to the good pocket, then climb up the groove.
EI
Epics Incorporated
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Pock crank into the scoop, then upwards. The big pocket on the left side is off limits.
-
Dance of Violence
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Find EI belay station. Scamble across grass, the on to rock to fisih on the last bolt of DS
RN
Ramases Nibblick the 3rd
Grade 25
3 Bolt
...Kerplunk Kerplunk Whoops I've Dropped My Thribble. The slabby face R of GGS.
GS
Good Girls Spit
Grade 14
4 Bolt
Right of BBAS. Slab route.
BB
Bad Boys Always Swallow
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Climb the yellow corner.
GC
Gascrankinstation
Grade 26
5 Bolt
Slightly overhung face, with a shallow corner.
FB
On Some Faraway Beach
Grade 16
5 Bolt
Slab climb facing Rambandit Valley on Lh-side as you look at the Quantum Field. A slightly tricky start from the groove on the right (or a harder jump-and-crank direct start) then follow the bolts, veering left then right.
GF
Girls Just Wanna Have Fun.
Grade 14
5 Bolt
Arete on the L of SFB
To
Tocodiscos
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Climb the big yellow wall.
S&
Slap and Tickle
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the slabby arete.
-
Second Floor
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Smear climbing through and over the lip and beyond.
-
Mung Bean
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Climb through the scoop, and over the lip.
TD
The Downtrodden
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Climb the L leaning ramp onto a crack.
ST
Shout to the Top
Grade 17
5 Bolt
Climb the arete.
SU
Slip Up
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Climb up via L-wards to gain the arete.
-
General Ledger
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Start on the right. Move L-wards to finish through the hole.
JS
James' Slab
Grade 0
1 Bolt
Slab Route
-
The Black Vegetable
Grade 25
2 Bolt
Climb through 2 scoops.
-
Shriekback
Grade 18, 13
5 Bolt
1. Start on Rh-side of the slab, move L-wards under the overhang to to belay in the hollow.
2. Keep moving L-wards to the rap station
FB
Floppy Banana
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Pock crank up yellow grooves, via L-wards on upper wall.
-
Secret Covenant of Marriage
Grade 26
2 Bolt
Lh-side of wall
PG
Pathetic Gropes
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Climb L-wards up a ramp, then crank around the arete and onto the top.
MF
My Feet are my Friends
Grade 26
5 Bolt
Climb the groove.
-
Bloozin'
Grade 23
Start up SG. Travrese R-wards after the chockstones.
-
Expressway Pile Up
Grade 21
Opposite Hg Climb through short line of pocks, then on to slab, and finishing up laybacking a crack. Bolts Removed!
BL
Big Ling
Grade 16
2 Bolt

-
Little Ling
Grade 18
4 Bolt

LC
Limestone Cowboy
Grade 21
Climb the crack until it runs out and finish off on the face.
-
I'm the Boss
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Climb the wall on small edges.
-
Fraudulent Dreams of Teenage Appetite
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Bridgeing and slopers.
KR
King of the Road
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Short arete
MP
Mac's Plank
Grade 20
8 Bolt
Start off the pedestal, onto the boulder the traverse L-wards and upwards with the help of monos.
CM
Critical Mass
Grade 14
3 Bolt
Climb R edge of wall on big pockets
-
Spoonerama
Grade 23
3 Bolt
Same staart as CM. Traverese L-wards to a narrow corner, then head for the top.
Hi
Houdini
Grade 28
3 Bolt
Traverse L-wards then upwards on pockets.
TC
A Taste of Things to Come
Grade 21
5 Bolt
Go up L-hand of a whiite wall.
-
Afternoon Delight
Grade 22
3 Bolt
L of TT2C. Climb through and past pocketed scoop.
ST
As Snug as a Thug on A Jug
Grade 19
3 Bolt
The arete below TT2C.
1A
A One Arm Pull Up
Grade 20
3 Bolt
The slab below GtwW.
SL
Sid Lives
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Climb the long arete.
-
Unbearable Lightness
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Boulder start then a step up.
-
The 5.10d Off-width
Grade 21
Diagonal seam capped with a cracked boulder
-
Turkey Teeth
Grade 20
2 Bolt
Starts up a groove to finish up the wall.
DS
Dr Squat
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Start up the slab and move through spaced pockets and face climbing.
-
Sqaushed Gecko
Grade 17
A short off-width/ crack.
VG
Vicious Games
Grade 25
3 Bolt
Climb thin yellow wall, via R-wards onto finishing slab.
PD
Pig Dog
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Startb on pile, then traverse L-wards across pockets then up.
-
The Graze
Grade 18
2 Bolt
Slab route
EV
El Vista
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Climb the arete.
MB
Max Blanck
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Start up crack from L, and finish off the slab above the break.
-
The Day the World Stood Still
Grade 24
Thin crack.
WS
What's on the Slab
Grade 20
2 Bolt
Slab climbing with the help of slopey buckets
-
Victorialand
Grade 15
Crack to the L of WotS.
Ab
Arseyboo
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Climb the short rounded arete.
-
Scrotum
Grade 25
At a small gully R of SS. Start jamming and climb the crack.
SS
Sleazy Skankin'
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Start at the shallow groove, strech your way to the corner to finish on the arete.
-
Like Cockatoos
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the scoop between the first 2 bolts and continue on up
CC
Chit Chat
Grade 20
1 Bolt
The left exit from a big scoop
-
Yakkity Yak
Grade 22
1 Bolt
The right exit from the big scoop
-
Heretic
Grade 20
Climb crack. Hard start.
-
Offwiidth Problem
Grade 16
The south side of the HB boulder.
NE
Nether Edge
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Climb the arete on the NW edge of the boulder.
HB
Hunters Bar
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Climb the yellow face, exit r-wards after clipping the 2nd bolt.
-
Put up your Dukes
Grade 28
3 Bolt
Climb the wall to the right of Heisenberg on drilled holds
Hg
Heisenburg
Grade 21, 24
5 Bolt
1. Climb the shallow groove to the belay ledge.
2. Climb pocketed arete.
-
Schrodinger
Grade 25
4 Bolt
Climb the thin face to the L of the arete
BP
Bonza Pipeline
Grade 24
4 Bolt
On the KitD boulder. Climb the groove in the middle of the wall
KD
Kiss in the Dreamhouse
Grade 20
8 Bolt
Slab route that faces woolly valley, some drilled holds!
RR
Roid Rage
Grade 23
3 Bolt
On the north side of the PC boulder. Edge and pock crank your way up a yellow overhung wall to the mantle finish.
SH
Suicide by Hallucination
Grade 26
2 Bolt
Rh-side of the slightly overhung yellow wall. Facing west.
MG
Moment of Greed
Grade 29
2 Bolt
Lh-side of the slightly overhung yellow wall. Facing west.
TA
Toxic Avenger
Grade 25
2 Bolt
10m L of MOG. Traverse R-wards into the climb and ascend the weakness.
PC
Pulse Constrictor
Grade 21
4 Bolt
Start in crack smear R-wards ten ascend face that is split by the finger crack.
-
Brooke Pantyshields
Grade 18
Off-width
Sl
Superlickerman
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Climb the yellow face.
-
Greenpiece
Grade 17
Climb large crack then move R-wards into another crack.
-
Le Roi du Con
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Hanging arete to the L of Sa. Abseil in, climb out.
-
Hurt So Good
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Uphill from TT2C. Climb the pocketed arete.
-
Gone with the Wind
Grade 26
3 Bolt
Prominant arete.
-
Digging for Fire
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Just L of GwtW. Start on cheat pile to gain pockets, then smear/ bridge?? to ascend the groove.
-
The Treadmill
Grade 28
2 Bolt
The finger crack that climbs through the bulge.
-
Offwidth Thing
Grade 16
Just along from BP
SE
Sea Egg
Grade 23
2 Bolt
Found on the north side of Woolly Valley opposite Allah Protects. Steep wall.
Sports - 5 routes - avg. grade 21 17 - 21 22 - 25
Trad - 3 routes - avg. grade 19 0 - 16 17 - 21

The scarp crag above the lime quarrry

Access: The access is unknown, and may off limits. It is on Castle Hill Station. Sidle northwards aprrox 500m from the Dark Castle.

-
Make it Burn
Grade 22
4 Bolt
Climb the short Y crack onto a slab then a wall exiting around the roof.
-
Fat Men with Big Dorks
Grade 21
4 Bolt
Climb the pocketed wall.
-
The Bushman
Grade 16
50m Lof TtB. Ascend the crack with the botanic features leaving them as found.
-
Ties that Bind
Grade 21
7 Bolt
Climb the arete, friction will help.
-
Nose to the Limestone
Grade 19
The crack uphill and R-wards of TtB.
-
Bipolar Bop
Grade 20
4 Bolt
Start up groove wit a small roof, move L-wards up the face to finish under the bush that is halfway up the face.
-
Ernie goes Rough Trade
Grade 20
10 Bolt
Scamble up the bushy gully 30m R of BB. Move out L-wards and up the slab and crack past the double bolts.
-
Nestling
Grade 20
On the nothern outcrop betwwen the quarry and Castle Hill Village.
Sports - 7 routes - avg. grade 24 17 - 21 22 - 25

The area of boulders north and uphill from the main Castle Hill Boulders. The first four climbs described are on the on the east wall of the eastern (larger) gully, known as the Ace of Spades Wall. The last three climbs are found on a shark fin shaped boulder on the northern side of the hill facing Castle Hill Village. Useful bouldering information, http://castlehillbasin.co.nz/taxonomy/term/9

Access: There is a prominent boulder on top of the hill that is sacred to Maori. Please respect this landmark and DO NOT CLIMB ON IT!

-
Jump at the Sun
Grade 24
3 Bolt
The uphill line on the wall, that features a yellow lay-away
-
Toxic Shock
Grade 22
5 Bolt
Faces JatS on NW side of boulder. Climb through overhangs to the break then move R-wards, continue upwards and L-wards to finish onthe face.
-
Attila the Nun
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Follow seam L-wards.
-
The Headless Horseman
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Start as for AtN. Move R-wards onto up the arete
-
Animal Acts
Grade 24
3 Bolt
The Arete on the east side of the boulder.
-
Howling Elu
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Climb the north side of the boulder
-
Know Fear
Grade 25
3 Bolt
The slightly overhung south side of the boulder.

Showing all routes 59 routes total

Sports - 44 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25 26+
Trad - 15 routes - avg. grade 21 0 - 16 17 - 21 22 - 25
Dark%20castleDark%20castle%20sth

The area of boulders to the north of Rambandit Valley. Recently the area has not been very popular due to being closed. The routes do not get much traffic and could be slightly greasy, and brushing is not encouraged. The best climbs to orient yourself on are Rambandit (Rb)

Access: The Dark Castle is CLOSED, mainly because it has been part of Castle Hill Station, and overlooks the house. Nothing has changed. Climbs on the West side of the Rambandit Valley are okay but all other areas of Dark Castle and the Lime Quarry scarp are currently still closed.

-
Jesus Chrysler
Grade 25
1 Bolt
Left of SAYS
-
Smile as You Sin
Grade 25
1 Bolt
The wall to the left of Rt
-
Rambandit
Grade 21
The handcrack on the north side of the boulder. Generally soloed as the crux is at the bottom
-
You Light up My Liver
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Located in the Rambandit Boulder. Bridge the gully to the pock.
-
Pete Eats Dust
Grade 27
1 Bolt

MB
Mental Block
Grade 24
2 Bolt
Found on the Rh edge of the south side of the Rambandit boulder.
-
Mean Mr Peanut
Grade 22
1 Bolt
Found at the upper end of the Rambandit Valley. Climb the rounded arete.
-
Space Race
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Use same star as AB. Move L-wards to the pocks and up past the bolt.
-
Anna Bollocks
Grade 19
1 Bolt
Start R of MMP. Carry out short pock crank.
HW
Hoodwink
Grade 19, 6, 23, 20
8 Bolt
1. Climb MMP, SR or AB to gain the shelf.
2. Traverse L-wards along the shelf.
3. Ascend wall and bridge onwards.
4. Traverse R-wards, then exit straight up.
-
Wings of Desire
Grade 26
The bolted line L of MfG
-
Made from Girders
Grade 26
5 Bolt
On the south face directly facing Rambandit. Climb the arete
-
Irn Bru
Grade 26
4 Bolt
The face to the R of MFG
-
Headful of Steam
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Found at the Lh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Ascend the wall and then puulover into a big scoop.
-
Sewerslide
Grade 19
3 Bolt
Found at on the Rh-side of the gully behind Rambandit. Climb the arete.
-
Pinstripe Clone
Grade 18
3 Bolt
Starts R of Sewerslide. Climb up and R-wards following bolts to ramp.
-
The Lovin' Handful
Grade 24
3 Bolt
Starts 10m R of Sewerslide. Climb the arete via the layback crack.
-
Ewe 2
Grade 17
2 Bolt
Found on the large separate block. Start at the NE corner and go L-wards to gain the slab.
-
White, No Sugar
Grade 22
2 Bolt
Uphill side of the Ewe2 boulder. R-ward trending line.
-
Big Chimney
Grade 16
AT the end of the valley. Climb the chimney crack.
-
The Tower
Grade 22
Startb at the top of Big Chimney. Clip the bolt then gain some pockets, go straight up or L-wards across the groove to the edge.
-
Atomizer
Grade 27
On the Lh-side and near the entrance of Double Dick Canyon.
-
Magic Kiwi
Grade 22
R of Atomizer. Climb overhung corner, then travers R-wards to pedastal and onwards up the arete
-
Baby Bunnies
Grade 16
3 Bolt
A short wall and slabby groove on the approach to EE
EE
Endangered Earth
Grade 23
5 Bolt
Approach via the rock path, to starting bolt. Climb the wall to the flared groove then out L-wards onto the slab. Shares the same finish as the Big Chimney.
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Wendy's Rasin Loaf
Grade 16
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the Lh-edge.
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Cutex Cutie
Grade 16
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Goes up the middle
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Super Slipper
Grade 18
1 Bolt
Found on a small pinnacle , near the water runnel leads towards EE. Climb the south side.
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New Ninja
Grade 15
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb up the L-wards to pocks and carry on upwards.
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Manicure
Grade 19
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. The middle route.
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Breakfast in Bed
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Starts out of Double Dick Canyon at the bolt belayers anchor. Climb the Rh Arete.
AP
Angel of Pain
Grade 31
3 Bolt
The mono/fingery overhung wall
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I.R.A
Grade 19
On the main scarp, uphill from the Big Chimney. Climb the orange Y crack, with your chioce of exit
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Mal a l'Aise
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). The thin slabbish wall to the left of a cave. First bolt used to live under a rock at base of climb and was inserted into the hole on ascent.
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Tears of a Clown
Grade 16
3 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Go up through the boulder cave to the Left of MA through srub onto the lslab above MA to belayer bolts. Climb L-wards then up the arete, and finishing on the slab.
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Lycra Lounge Lizards
Grade 18
4 Bolt
Found on the NE corner of the scarp, past a large arch (up high). Using the same belayer bolts as ToaC. Climb straight up then move R-wards over a small roof.
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Ernie Falls in Love with Doris
Grade 20
1 Bolt
Found on a boulder opposite MA. Climb the Rh-side of the ledge.
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Love in the Void
Grade 21
3 Bolt
Climb the yellow wall 40m R of MA
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Bruce the Christian
Grade 13
Climb the chimney to the R of LiaV
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White Wince
Grade 22
The Lh- slanting diagonal crack, to the R of BtC
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The Rainbow
Grade 20
Downhil from WW. Climb the crack through the overhanging groove
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Ernie Drops his Pie
Grade 24
On the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Very technical.
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Sea of Nipples
Grade 19
2 Bolt
On the north side of the large boulder in the valley towards the Lime Quarry Srarp, opposite MA. Climb the short slab.
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Better Bodies
Grade 21
2 Bolt
Up the gully opposite SoN and R of the chimney.Climb the pocked wall.
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Total Fitness
Grade 16
2 Bolt
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Climb the paralell side feature.
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Spitting Buttock
Grade 16
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. An esoteric chimney.
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Spoondectomy
Grade 24
1 Bolt
Opposite SoN, towards the reserve. Start up the chimney then head L-wards past the bolt and upm the face.
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Easy Listening
Grade 23
On the NW side of the valley opposite WW. Climb the steep fist crack.
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Legal Aid
Grade 23
The route is in a gully, close to and to the L of EL. Climb the undercling/fist-crack.
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Tranquility of Solitude
Grade 13
3 Bolt
Faces the reserve, L of EL, Ascend the easy slab.
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Banana Chimney
Grade 10
Climb the yellow chmney that is formed by a blade of rock.
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Dark Matter
Grade 23
3 Bolt
At the NW end of the Dark Castle. Climb the grey corner.
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Edge of Darkness
Grade 22
Cliomb the arete to L of DM
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Gulf Crisis
Grade 24
5 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The east facing wall (towards the road)
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Razzamatazz
Grade 25
6 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. The groove on the north side.
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Energy Crisis
Grade 23
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a prominant tower. Rh-side of the north face, climb the crack then move R-wards around the arete, finishing up RA.
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Radial Action
Grade 22
3 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Climb the curve and go letf to the arete at the top.
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Torso
Grade 20
3 Bolt
Go towards the Lime Quarry Scarp, on a the uphill face of a prominant tower. Start at scoop and go L-wards or jump start, then upwards and R-wards.
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Sssnap!
Grade 17
Just R of the tower. Layback up the big rock waffer.