Fetched from ClimbNZ on Aug 25th, 2017

Showing all routes 47 routes total

Alpine - 47 routes - avg. grade 1 0 - 2.75 3+

I consider the name “Kuri’’ (the dog) for a not unattractive peak to be ill-chosen and unromantic, but there may be some justification for Awful and Dreadful. I am unaware who thought up these names, but they were given many years ago, at a time when these words had a meaning very different from their usage in the slang of today, and I feel they were given in all sincerity, the one solemnly impressive, inspiring awe; the other awe-inspiring. It is possible they have impressed to this degree those who have been privileged to look upon them. – Eric Miller, 1945 The mountains to the north of Mt Aspiring are fantastic. The approaches to Mts Alba, Castor, Pollux, and Mt Awful are a mirror image of the Aspiring peaks, in that they are approached up similar braided river valleys. However there are no alpine huts or glaciers on the scale of the Volta or Bonar glaciers, and most of the mountains are attempted from a bivvy. This is an area where trampers abound but mountaineers are thin on the ground. Many of the smaller peaks have had very few ascents since they were first climbed. The peaks are generally grouped together around the valleys they are commonly climbed from. But because peaks are situated on the Main Divide, where ascents have been made from the west they are noted in the text.

Access: Road access to the mountains to the north of Mt Aspiring is via the Wanaka–Haast highway (state highway 6). Makarora township, 80 kilometres from Wanaka, has a café, DoC centre and accommodation. Jet boat or plane access can be arranged for a quick trip to the upper Wilkin Valley: jetboats at Makarora Tourist Centre, Makarora (03 443-8372) and a light plane can be used to fly into Jumboland, the upper Wilkin and Siberia. The Wilkin and Young Valleys are tributaries of the Makarora and give access to Mts Alba, Awful, Castor and Pollux. Useful Links http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/otago/wanaka-makarora/wilkin-valley-tracks/ http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/otago/wanaka-makarora/gillespie-pass-circuit/ Huts The valley huts that are present are owned and managed by DoC and a hut ticket or pass is necessary to stay in them. Alternatively, fees can be paid at any DoC office. Hut wardens are in attendance during the summer at Top Forks, Siberia and Young Huts. Kerin Forks Hut This hut can be found at the bush edge on the true right of the Wilkin River. It sleeps 10 and has a coal stove. 5–6 hours from the Makarora confluence. Top Forks Hut Located in the Upper Wilkin, beyond Jumboland Flat, Top Forks hut sleeps 10 and has a coal stove. It provides access to Mts Castor and Pollux. Siberia Hut Siberia Hut sleeps 20 and has a potbelly stove. It is handily located near an airstrip and it is possible to fly directly in from Makarora, though this idea may be abhorrent to some. Siberia Hut provides a base for climbs of Mt Alba. Young Hut Situated near the bushline below Gillespie Pass in the Young Basin. Young Hut sleeps 10. Used as a base for climbs on Mt Awful.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2127 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Standard Route
Grade 1
Usually climbed via the leading spur that runs up from Waterfall Flat in the South Wilkin. On the first ascent the ridge south of the peak was reached via a dry creek bed from the South Wilkin. The party descended the East Ridge to a point where it was possible to drop down through bush to the Wilkin Valley floor.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2160 m

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Located at the end of the ridge that runs north-west from the summit of Castor.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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West Ridge
Grade 0
The pleasant slabs of the West Ridge have been climbed from the Drake valley.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1815 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Top Forks
Grade 0
From Top Forks, take the leading ridge. The ridge can also be gained via a prominent gully across the North Branch from Lake Diana. Perseus has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the east.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1945 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Jumboland
Grade 1
Climb the spur at the head of Jumboland Flats. A magnificent viewpoint.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2011 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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South East Ridge.
Grade 0
Just south of the Wonderland entrance, climb a boulder creek bed and through bush to the ridge. Has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the west.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2027 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Original Route
Grade 0
Just south of the Wonderland entrance, climb a boulder creek bed and through bush to the ridge. Has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the west.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1994 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From the Wonderland Valley
Grade 0
Climb the ridge leading to the summit from the Wonderland Valley. On the first ascent a snowcave was used—one of the first to be used in the New Zealand alps. Also climbed by traversing from Arne.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2012 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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North Ridge.
Grade 2
Ascended from bivvy near Lake Castalia. A steep rock scramble and traverse down the south-west rock ledges.
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From Iphegenia
Grade 0
Traverse from Iphigenia.

Showing all routes 1 route total

tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Jumboland
Grade 0
From Jumboland, cross the Wilkin and take the creek to gain the ridge leading up from the Wonderland.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2141 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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North Ridge.
Grade 0
From Newland Valley, climb to the saddle north of the peak.

Showing all routes 9 routes total 2192 m

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Alpine - 9 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
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If cute was an acceptable word to use to describe a mountain then Mt Awful would be just that. It is a readily accessible peak with good rock as a bonus.

Access: Mt Awful can be approached via the Wilkin Valley and then up Siberia, or up the Young Valley from Makarora. The Young Valley is probably the best option. There is potential to find a good bivvy spot at the head of the valley, above Young Hut. Makarora to Young Hut: 8–9 hours.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks. Photo Shaun Barnett.

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North West Ridge
Grade 1.25
From the Siberia Valley climb to the saddle between Doris and Awful, then along the ridge.
1
South East Ridge
Grade 2.25
From Young Hut there is a well marked tramping route up onto Gillespie Pass. From here the ridge to Mt Awful is scrambling. There are a couple of rock steps which look steeper than they are before the actual ridge is reached. The climbing on the ridge isn’t technically difficult. After a snowfield is climbed there is a section of good solid rock along a knife-edged ridge, which is the trickiest part of the climb and may require a rope and a small rock rack.

Showing all routes 5 routes total

Alpine - 5 routes - avg. grade 0 0 - 2.75 3+
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The East Face is a spectacular sweep of good solid rock and is the crowning glory of the Young Valley. There are three routes up the face; summer rock routes of good quality.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks. Photo Shaun Barnett. Jean Kenney - WICKED

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A Very Hungry Weka
Grade 0

2
The Weta Walk
Grade 4
This nine pitch route climbs out of the snowfield at the bottom left hand side of the face via a four pitch arête at about grade 17. This arête forms the side of a gut which can often be choked with snow or have a waterfall running down it. From the top of this arête head right up a narrow ledge which can have snow on it. This ledge takes you into the middle of the face and into a corner topped by a small roof. A good crack system takes you around the roof and then up into open country. There is a sting in the tail to this route in the form of a small overlap which is the crux. A piton driven in upside down protected the moves through this overlap, but small cams would probably be better. Two more technical pitches follow and then the face finishes at the summit after a section of scrambling on loose but not horrific rock.
3
A Stitch in Time
Grade 5, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0
1. 40m From the snowfield in the middle of the face climb up to a fixed anchor (red tape).
2. 30m Step right and up 30m, then angle back left 10m to fixed belay.
3. 50m Up 40m to fixed pin, may be difficult to find, then up left to fixed belay
4. 45m Up 2–3m then veer right up seam to fixed belay.
5. 45m Up to fixed belay.
6. 45m Traverse 8m right along ledge then up to natural belay under roof.
7. 45m Step out right onto slab then up 8m to fixed piton. Keep tending right to broad ramp. Follow this left to large ledge and natural belay. Abseil cord is to your right.
8. 51m Belay 10m left of abseil sling. Follow obvious crack with a small grass patch and through right facing corner.
9. 45m Traverse left finding line of least resistance through broken rock to natural belay. The abseil sling is to your right.
10. 20m Tend up and right 15m to abseil cord and walk left 20m to summit.
4
WICKED
Grade 0
370m
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Summer of Yes
Grade 0
190m Excellent four pitch route. The top two pitches follow the big corner. Bolted belays to rap off.
4
WICKED
Grade 0
370m
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South West Ridge
Grade 0
5 pitches

Showing all routes 1 route total 2150 m

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tba

Attribution: Allan Uren & John Cocks

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Direct from the Wilkin Valley floor.
Grade 0

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2360 m

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Siberia, Newland, Te Naihi

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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South West Face
Grade 2
From Newland Pass at the head of Newland Stream, cross the Axius Glacier and climb the short, steep face to gain the summit ridge.
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East Ridge.
Grade 2
Take the well formed track up to the Crucible, a spectacular hanging lake under the south-east face. From the lake outlet there are gullies that lead up to the ridge, after which there is a snowfield and straightforward ridge to the top. This route has had few ascents.
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South East Face.
Grade 2
The best time to climb this face would be in winter or early spring. This would mean fast access to the face across a frozen lake. Good judgement regarding conditions would be vital for this face. It is avalanche prone and there is a high rockfall hazard if temperatures are too warm. The route goes up the left hand side of the face via a series of steep gullies.
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North Face.
Grade 2
Gain ledges below the East Ridge and traverse to reach a snowfield and the foot of a rib leading to the middle peak.

Showing all routes 3 routes total 2265 m

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‘Is it a new sauce invented to make rabbit stew more palatable?’ mused Mr Explorer Charlie Douglas back in 1891. Ingenious but wrong, the name in fact refers to a distinctively shaped German helmet.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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North East Ridge.
Grade 2
Follow the ridge up from Pearson Saddle, for a time sidling on the Matukituki side until the ridge can be regained by a steep rock couloir. A mixed snow and rock ridge then leads up to the summit rocks with a final steep snow slope below the peak. The climb would probably take about five hours from the saddle. The North East ridge could also be reached by the subsidiary ridge rising from the Wilkin-East Matukituki saddle.
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North West Ridge.
Grade 2
The North West Ridge may be reached from Pearson Saddle by climbing scree and snow slopes to reach the ridge between Pickelhaube and the unnamed peak to the west. Although the ridge does not appear to have been climbed, it looks a straightforward rock ridge and would probably take about five hours from Pearson Saddle. The ridge could also be reached without difficulty from the Volta Névé.
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South East Ridge
Grade 2

Showing all routes 1 route total 2009 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Waterfall Flat
Grade 2
Climb to the prominent spur (exposed in parts) at the north end of Waterfall Flat, then cross the basin above to gain the northern slopes of Taurus.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2254 m

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The first ascent of Ragan was from the Waiatoto, via Razorback Ridge and across Stocking Peak by Charlie Douglas, February 1891.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Standard Route
Grade 1
Climb to Chasm Pass, then along the Main Divide to summit. ➠ Note: The grade given here is tentative as the route is seldom used.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2536 m

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Pollux is a fine mountain; the vertical relief is reminiscent of the Darran mountains. Top Forks Hut makes a great base, but may mean a long day and bivvying near the base of the mountain may be preferable.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks. Photo Rob Frost.

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Chasm Pass Route.
Grade 2
Climb to Chasm Pass and then cross the Ice King Tops and Donald Glacier to join the Bluffs route to the summit. The route of the first ascent, but rather long and indirect.
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Bluffs route.
Grade 2
This is the preferred route. From Top Forks Hut, take the track up the valley towards Lake Castalia and pick a line through alpine scrub up the ridge you can see from the hut and down from the lake. If time is taken and good route finding adhered to, the worst of the alpine scrub can be avoided. There is a steep gully to be negotiated before the glacier is reached from where the climbing is straightforward to the summit.

Showing all routes 4 routes total 2518 m

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This fine, rarely climbed peak just to the north of Pollux offers better climbing than its neighbour.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Pickelhaube Glacier route.
Grade 2
Follow the Bluffs route on Pollux and traverse below Pollux into the Pickelhaube Glacier. From there the South West Face is straightforward.
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East Ridge.
Grade 2.25
From the top of the moraine wall between Lake Lucidus and the North Wilkin, pick a line through the bluffs to gain a shelf that leads out to the lower East Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.
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South East Face.
Grade 2.25
Gain the glacier above Lake Lucidus via the Bluffs route on Pollux. The route follows a prominent rock rib which merges into the snow of the face proper.
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North West Ridge and Pickelhaube Glacier.
Grade 2
From the Drake River sidle up the valley draining the Pickelhaube Glacier, to above bushline. Cut left up a scrub and tussock rib to slabs under Pegasus and follow benches to the Pickelhaube Glacier. Choose a route to suit up the last steeper bit.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2154 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Traverse from Mercury.
Grade 0

Showing all routes 1 route total 2160 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Lake Castalia Cirque
Grade 0
Climb out of the Lake Castalia Cirque, normally via Leda Peak route, and traverse upper snow slopes.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1946 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Lake Castalia
Grade 0
Climb slopes above Lake Castalia to saddle with Wonderland Valley. See Moir’s Guide North, page 151.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1946 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Normal Route
Grade 1
Usually climbed as part of a traverse of the Main Divide from either Newland Pass or Lake Castalia.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1890 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Main Divide
Grade 0
Straightforward from Newland Pass, or along the Main Divide from The Sentinel.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2068 m

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A ‘pleasant scramble’ along the crest of the range between the Mueller and Te Naihi Rivers. T Barcham & A Cunningham, Dec 1950.

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Stewart Pass
Grade 0
Can be climbed from Stewart Pass at the head of the south branch of Siberia Stream. Although access is possible via Stewart Pass, it is much more difficult than the climb itself. The South Siberia slopes of the pass are steep slabs and bluffs and gully draining it is prone to rockfall.

Showing all routes 2 routes total 2030 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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High Peak
Grade 0
The high peak in the centre is climbed via the ridge from the Siberia Valley. There are extensive slabs on this ridge.
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South Peak
Grade 0
The south peak has been climbed by traversing from the centre peak.

Showing all routes 1 route total 1980 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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Normal Route
Grade 0
Straightforward from Siberia Saddle.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2010 m

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Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From Governor’s Pass
Grade 0
Climbed from Governor’s Pass at the head of the North Young.

Showing all routes 1 route total 2430 m

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tba

Attribution: Allen Uren & John Cocks

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From the Wilkin
Grade 2
Approached from North Wilkin (as with Bluffs Route) and climbed from the col between it and Pollux.